Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Ashtavinayaka Part 3

On the serene banks of the Bhima River, atop a gentle hillock shrouded in babul trees, stands the Siddhivinayak Temple at Siddhatek, a site revered as one of the eight sacred Ashtavinayak shrines of Maharashtra. This temple, with its unique right-trunked Ganesha and deep roots in myth and history, is a powerful spiritual destination, drawing pilgrims seeking blessings, accomplishment or siddhi, and the removal of obstacles. As the only Ashtavinayak temple where Ganesha’s trunk turns to the right, Siddhatek holds a special place in the hearts of devotees.

Siddhatek is a small village in the Ahmednagar district, about 100 km from Pune. The temple sits on a hillock, surrounded by the lush greenery of babul trees, with the Bhima River flowing nearby, creating an atmosphere of tranquillity and spiritual elevation. The pilgrimage to Siddhatek is not merely a physical journey but a symbolic ascent, both literal and metaphorical, toward divine accomplishment.

According to tradition, the original temple at Siddhatek was built by Lord Vishnu himself. Over the centuries, the temple fell into ruin and was lost to memory. The site’s sanctity was revived when a local cowherd, guided by a divine vision, discovered the ancient idol of Siddhivinayak and began worshipping it. News of the miraculous idol spread, and the shrine regained its prominence as a centre of devotion.

The current temple was constructed in the late 18th century under the patronage of Rajmata Ahilyabai Holkar, the philosopher-queen of Indore, who is celebrated for her contributions to Hindu temple architecture across India. Further enhancements were made during the Peshwa era, notably by Sardar Haripant Phadke, who built the Nagarkhana, or drum chamber, and a paved pathway to the temple’s main entrance. The outer sabha-mandapa, or assembly hall, originally built by Mairal, a landlord from Baroda, was rebuilt in 1970 after being demolished in 1939. Today, the temple is managed by the Chinchwad Devasthan Trust, which also oversees the Morgaon and Theur Ashtavinayak temples.

The Siddhivinayak Temple is constructed primarily from black stone, giving it an austere yet elegant appearance. The temple faces north, a direction considered auspicious, and features a sanctum, the garbhagriha, with a dome-shaped stone ceiling. The sanctum is relatively modest in size, measuring 15 feet in height and 10 feet in width.

The central focus of the temple is the swayambhu, or self-manifested idol of Ganesha, known here as Siddhivinayak. Unlike most other Ganesha idols, which have their trunks turned to the left, the Siddhatek idol’s trunk turns to the right, a feature regarded as highly potent and difficult to appease. The idol is encased in brass and is depicted in a cross-legged posture, flanked by his consort Siddhi, symbolising spiritual accomplishment.

The entrance to the sanctum is guarded by brass statues of Jaya and Vijaya, the celestial gatekeepers of Vishnu’s abode. The sanctum also houses a Shiva-panchayatana, a grouping that includes Shiva, Ganesha, Vishnu, the Goddess, and Surya, the Sun God, reflecting the temple’s inclusive spiritual philosophy. The Nagarkhana, or the drum chamber, built by Sardar Haripant Phadke, is used during major festivals and rituals.

The most celebrated legend associated with Siddhatek is rooted in the ancient Mudgala Purana and other sacred texts. At the dawn of creation, the god Vishnu lay in deep yogic slumber or yoganidra, while Brahma, the creator, emerged from a lotus growing from Vishnu’s navel. As Brahma began the work of creation, two demons, Madhu and Kaitabha, arose from the dirt in Vishnu’s ear and began to wreak havoc, threatening the cosmic order.

Vishnu awoke and engaged the demons in battle, but despite his might, he could not defeat them. Seeking guidance, he approached Shiva, who revealed that Vishnu had neglected to invoke Ganesha, the remover of obstacles, before commencing his task. Realising his error, Vishnu travelled to Siddhatek and performed intense penance, chanting the mantra “Om Sri Ganeshaya Namah” for over a hundred years.

Moved by Vishnu’s devotion, Ganesha appeared and granted him siddhi, divine powers, and success. Armed with these blessings, Vishnu returned to the battlefield and, through a clever ruse, tricked the demons into granting him a boon, which he used to destroy them. Thus, the site where Vishnu attained siddhi became known as Siddhatek, and the form of Ganesha worshipped here is called Siddhivinayak, the bestower of accomplishment and supernatural powers. Siddhatek is also believed to be the place where other great souls, Maharshi Vyas, Bhrushundi, the Ganapatya saint Morya Gosavi, and his son Narayan Maharaj, attained siddhi through intense devotion and penance.

The Siddhivinayak Temple at Siddhatek is renowned for its rigorous and elaborate daily worship schedule. The day begins with the Kakad aarti, the early morning prayer, typically around 5 – 5:30 am. Shree Darshan is the early morning darshan, or viewing of the deity, from 5:30 am to noon. Naivedhya, or the offering of food to the deity, takes place around 12:05–12:30 pm. The afternoon Shree Darshan takes place between 12:30 and 7 pm. The evening Dhup Aarti is from 7 to 7:10 pm, while the evening aarti is from 7:30 to 8 pm. The night Shree Darshan is from 8 to 9:50 pm, while the final aarti before bedtime, the Shejaarti, happens at 9:50 pm, after which the temple is closed until the next morning. During the Maha Abhishekha, the grand ritual bathing, which occurs from 7:30 am to 1:00 pm, devotees are not permitted in the main temple area, and offerings of flowers and fruits are restricted.

A distinctive ritual at Siddhatek is the practice of performing 21 pradakshinas, or circumambulations, around the temple. This tradition is rooted in the story of Sardar Haripant Phadke, who, after losing his post as commander-in-chief, prayed to Siddhivinayak for 21 days, performing 21 circumambulations each day. His devotion was rewarded, and he regained his position, a testament to the temple’s reputation as a “jagrut kshetra”, a site of living, active divine power. Devotees continue this practice, believing that sincere performance of 21 pradakshinas can fulfil heartfelt wishes and bring about spiritual accomplishment.

Ganesh Chaturthi, celebrated in August or September, is the most prominent festival at Siddhatek. The temple is adorned with elaborate decorations, and the air is filled with devotional hymns and the rhythmic beat of traditional drums. Thousands of devotees gather to participate in the festivities, which include special rituals, processions, and communal prayers.

Ganesh Jayanti, marking the birth anniversary of Lord Ganesha, is celebrated in the Hindu month of Magha, about January or February. The highlight of the festival is a three-day “palkhi” or a palanquin procession, during which the idol of Ganesha is carried through the village, accompanied by devotional singing and cultural performances. Special rituals and celebrations also occur on Vijayadashami or Dussehra and Somavati Amavasya, a new moon that falls on a Monday, further enhancing the temple’s vibrant spiritual life.

Siddhatek is traditionally the second temple visited in the Ashtavinayak pilgrimage circuit, following Morgaon. However, due to travel convenience, some pilgrims visit it third, after Morgaon and Theur. Regardless of the sequence, Siddhatek is regarded as a crucial stop, as the right-trunked Ganesha is believed to be especially powerful in granting siddhi and removing obstacles. The temple is not just a site of individual devotion, but also a centre of community and cultural life.

The Siddhivinayak Temple at Siddhatek, with its unique right-trunked deity, ancient legends of divine accomplishment, and vibrant ritual, makes it a cornerstone of the Ashtavinayak pilgrimage.

Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Ashtavinayaka Part 2

Also known as the Shri Moreshwar Temple, the Shri Mayureshwar Mandir, situated in the tranquil village of Morgaon, approximately 65 km from the Pune district, marks the starting and ending point of the Ashtavinayak circuit.

Morgaon is the foremost centre of worship of the Ganapatya sect, which considers Ganesha as the Supreme Being. A Hindu legend relates the temple to the killing of the demon Sindhura by Ganesha. The exact date of the temple’s construction is unknown, although the Ganapatya saint Moraya Gosavi is known to have been associated with it. The temple flourished due to the patronage of the Peshwa rulers and descendants of Moraya Gosavi.

The village of Morgaon derives its name from the Marathi word for peacock, ‘mor,’ a nod to the region’s once-abundant population of these majestic birds. The temple itself is situated on the banks of the sacred Karha River, and the village is said to be laid out in the shape of a peacock, deepening the connection between the land and its presiding deity, Lord Ganesha in his Mayureshwar, or peacock-riding, form.

The origins of Shri Mayureshwar Mandir trace back to the Bahmani period, with construction believed to have occurred between the 14th and 17th centuries. The temple’s architecture is distinctive, featuring a high stone boundary wall and four minarets at each corner, giving it the appearance of a mosque from a distance, a strategic design choice to protect it during times of political upheaval. The temple flourished under the patronage of the Peshwa rulers, who considered Ganesha their family deity, and the spiritual influence of the Ganapatya saint Moraya Gosavi, who is closely associated with the temple’s history and legacy.

The Shri Moreshwar Temple is a striking blend of Hindu and Islamic architectural influences. There are our entrance gates, with each gate facing a cardinal direction and adorned with an image of Ganesha, representing his manifestations in the four Yugas or ages. The four minarets and 50-foot-tall stone walls were built to safeguard the temple from invaders. Unusually, a large statue of Nandi, Shiva’s sacred bull, stands before the temple entrance, a rare sight in Ganesha temples, explained by a local legend that the Nandi statue was left there after the vehicle transporting it broke down. The sabha-mandapa or assembly hall houses 23 different idols of Ganesha, each depicting a unique form, including the eight avatars described in the Mudgala Purana. The courtyard contains two sacred trees, Shami and Bilva, associated with penance and spiritual significance. Two lamp towers or Deepmalas and a six-foot-tall mouse, Ganesha’s vahana or mount, are prominent features in the courtyard. The sanctum sanctorum, the garbhagriha, enshrines the swayambhu or self-manifested idol Lord of Ganesha as Mayureshwar, depicted with four arms, three eyes, and a trunk turned to the left, seated on a peacock and flanked by his consorts, Siddhi and Buddhi.

The most celebrated legend associated with the temple is the tale of Ganesha’s incarnation as Mayureshwar to vanquish the demon Sindhu. According to the Ganesha Purana, Sindhu was born to Chakrapani and Ugra, and by the grace of the Sun-god, was granted a bowl of amrita, the elixir of immortality. To safeguard it, Sindhu swallowed the bowl, becoming invincible and unleashing terror across the three worlds. The gods, unable to withstand his tyranny, prayed to Ganesha, who incarnated as Mayureshwar, a six-armed, white-complexioned deity riding a peacock. In a fierce battle, Ganesha defeated Sindhu’s army, slew his general Kamalasura, and ultimately cut open Sindhu’s body to empty the amrita bowl, thus killing the demon and restoring cosmic order. After this victory, Ganesha gifted his peacock mount to his brother Kartikeya, cementing his epithet as Mayureshwar or Moreshwar, aka the “Lord of the Peacock.”

Another legend recounts how the creator-god Brahma, preserver-god Vishnu, dissolver-god Shiva, the Divine Mother Devi, and the Sun-god Surya meditated at Morgaon to understand their creator and purpose. Ganesha manifested before them as an Omkara flame, revealing his supremacy and blessing them with divine knowledge.

A further myth tells of Brahma’s penance to cleanse himself of the sin of desiring his daughter, Sarasvati. The sacred Turiya Tirtha river appeared, and Brahma carried its water in his pot to worship Ganesha at Morgaon. When he stumbled and spilt the water, it became the Karha River, which continues to flow by the temple today.

The Ganapatya saint Moraya Gosavi is deeply connected to the temple’s lore. He was a devout worshipper who travelled monthly from Chinchwad to Morgaon on foot to offer prayers. On one occasion, arriving after the temple had closed, the locks miraculously fell away, allowing him to worship Ganesha. His devotion inspired the construction of the Mangalmurti temple at Chinchwad and elevated the status of the Moreshwar temple as a premier centre of Ganapatya worship.

The temple’s daily worship schedule is meticulously observed, offering devotees multiple opportunities to participate in sacred rituals. The ritual bathing and purification of the deity, the Prakshal Puja, is conducted between 5 and 6 am, while the Shodashopachar Puja, the traditional sixteen-step ceremonial worship, happens between 7 am and 12 noon. The five-step worship, the Panchopachar Puja, takes place at 8 pm, while the Samudaik Evening Aarti, which is a communal ritual of lighting the lamp,p happens at 7:30 p,m and the nighttime aarti, the Shej Aarti, is done at 10 pm before the temple’s doors are shut for the day.

Devotees traditionally first worship Nagna Bhairava, then Mayureshwar, and finally Sakshi Vinayaka, who is believed to be the witness to prayers offered at the temple. The people of Morgaon collectively offer food or a thali lunch to visitors during Magh Shuddh Panchami, reflecting the temple’s role as a hub of community and hospitality.

The temple becomes the focal point of grand celebrations during Ganesh Chaturthi, the Bhadrapada Shukla Chaturthi, and Ganesh Jayanti or Magha Shukla Chaturthi. Devotees flock to Morgaon, and a procession arrives from the Mangalmurti temple in Chinchwad, carrying the palkhi or palanquin of Ganesha. Festivities continue for more than a month, culminating on Ashvin Shukla Dashami, with fairs, processions, and communal feasting. The temple also hosts celebrations on Vijayadashami, Shukla Chaturthi, Krishna Chaturthi, and Somavati Amavasya, the new moon coinciding with a Monday.

The main idol is believed to be swayambhu or self-manifested and is said to have been consecrated twice by Brahma, once before and once after being destroyed by the demon Sindhu. Each of the four gates represents a cardinal direction and a life goal: Dharma or righteousness, Artha or wealth, Kama or desire, and Moksha or liberation. The idol is covered with layers of saffron-colored vermillion, which naturally peels off every century, revealing the original image, a phenomenon regarded as miraculous by devotees. The sabha-mandapa houses 23 different forms of Ganesha, including the eight avatars from the Mudgala Purana, making it a living gallery of Ganesha iconography. The presence of the Shami and Bilva trees in the courtyard is tied to legends of penance and spiritual awakening. The juxtaposition of Nandi and the mouse at the temple entrance is unique, blending Shaiva and Ganapatya symbolism.

The Ashtavinayak Yatra, a pilgrimage to eight Ganesha temples around Pune, is considered incomplete unless the devotee both begins and ends the journey at Shri Mayureshwar Mandir. This cyclical pilgrimage reflects the Hindu understanding of spiritual journeys as both linear and circular, with every ending marking a new beginning.

Shri Mayureshwar Mandir in Morgaon is more than a temple; it is a living testament to the enduring power of faith, myth, and community. Its legends, rituals, and architecture encapsulate the essence of Maharashtra’s spiritual heritage, inviting devotees and seekers to embark on a journey that is as much about inner transformation as it is about external pilgrimage.

Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Ashtavinayaka Part 1

Regular readers of this blog will know that Lord Ganesha is my ishtadev, the one whom I connect to and the first I think of in joy and sadness. He is the first whom I think of when I wake up and the last I call upon before I sleep. It’s only fitting, then, that my next instalment in this series on Hindu temples is the Ashtavinayaka temples. So let’s learn more about this form of the elephant god and this temple circuit.

Among the many sacred circuits that devotees undertake, the Ashtavinayaka pilgrimage in Maharashtra holds a unique place. The term Ashtavinayaka translates to “eight Ganeshas,” referring to the eight temples dedicated to Lord Ganesha, the remover of obstacles and the harbinger of wisdom. The Ashtavinayaka Yatra is centred around the city of Pune. The eight temples house eight distinct idols of Ganesha, the Hindu deity of unity, prosperity, learning, and the removal of obstacles. Each of these temples has its legend and history, as distinct from each other as the idols in each temple. The form of each murti of Ganesha and his trunk are distinct from one another. To complete the Ashtavinayaka Yatra, one must revisit the first temple after visiting all eight temples.

Unlike other temple circuits, the Ashtavinayaka pilgrimage is distinctive because each of these eight temples enshrines a self-manifested or Swayambhu idol of Lord Ganesha, believed to have emerged naturally rather than being sculpted by human hands. The Ashtavinayaka temples are located in different parts of Maharashtra, primarily in and around Pune, in the Pune and Raigad districts, and visiting them in a specific sequence is considered highly auspicious.

Out of these eight temples, five are in Pune, two are in Raigad, and one is in Ahmednagar or Ahilyanagar District. The pilgrimage takes 3 days to complete and as per scriptures, must be in this specific prescribed order: Mayureshwar Temple, Morgaon, where Lord Ganesha is astride on a peacock and the starting and ending point of the pilgrimage, Siddhivinayak Temple, Siddhatek, a tranquil temple where Lord Vishnu is said to have meditated, Ballaleshwar Temple, Pali, the only Ganesha temple named after a devotee, Ballal, Varadvinayak Temple, Mahad, known for granting boons or varada, Chintamani Temple, Theur, associated with the return of the mythical Chintamani gem, Girijatmaj Temple, Lenyadri, carved into a mountain, and linked to Goddess Parvati, Vighnahar Temple, Ozar, dedicated to the vanquisher of obstacles, and worshipped by Lord Indra, and the Mahaganapati Temple, Ranjangaon, also known as the Great Ganesha, and connected to Shiva’s victory over the demon Tripurasura. The pilgrimage concludes by returning to Morgaon, completing the sacred loop.

It is believed that to complete the pilgrimage, a devotee must visit all eight temples in the prescribed order and then return to the first temple to complete the spiritual circuit. This act symbolises the cycle of life and the divine presence of Lord Ganesha in all stages of human existence.

Each of these temples is associated with a unique form of Ganesha and carries its legend that adds to the richness of the pilgrimage. However, what ties them together is their collective significance as sites of divine energy and devotion.

Several fascinating legends connect the Ashtavinayaka temples, making this pilgrimage more than just a visit to eight separate shrines. Some of the overarching myths associated with the circuit include

The Legend of Sage Gritsamada and Mayureshwar: According to Hindu mythology, Sage Gritsamada was blessed with a divine son, Ganapati, due to his intense devotion. However, a misunderstanding led to the formation of the Ganapatya sect, which exclusively worshipped Lord Ganesha. This sect played a vital role in the establishment of the Ashtavinayaka temples.

Lord Ganesha’s Battle with the Demon Sindhu: A prevalent myth speaks of the demon Sindhu, who had received a boon that he could only be defeated by an incarnation of Shiva and Parvati’s son. To destroy this menace, Ganesha took the form of Mayureshwar and, riding a peacock, vanquished the demon. This legend explains why the Mayureshwar Temple in Morgaon is considered the most important of the eight temples.

The Story of Ballal and the Self-Manifested Idol: At Ballaleshwar Temple in Pali, the legend of a young devotee named Ballal is widely told. A dedicated worshiper of Ganesha, Ballal was punished by his father for excessive devotion. However, moved by his faith, Ganesha himself appeared before Ballal, blessed him, and took residence in Pali, leading to the establishment of the temple.

Ganesha as the Conqueror of Obstacles: The story behind Vighnahar Temple in Ozar speaks of how Ganesha defeated the demon Vighnasura, who caused disruptions in religious practices. Ganesha subdued him but, on the demon’s plea, allowed him to stay, thus earning the title “Vighnahar” (Remover of Obstacles).

The Connection to the Pandavas: The Girijatmaj Temple at Lenyadri, located in a cave, is believed to be where Goddess Parvati meditated to be blessed with a son. It is also said that the Pandavas from the Mahabharata worshipped at this temple during their exile.

The Ashtavinayaka Yatra is not just a spiritual journey but a process of self-discovery and renewal. The circuit follows a clockwise route, believed to harness cosmic energy. Devotees often complete it within 1–2 days, symbolising detachment from worldly distractions. Devotees follow specific rituals and guidelines while undertaking this pilgrimage. Modak, Lord Ganesha’s favourite sweet, is offered at all temples, along with dhurva grass, red hibiscus flowers, and coconut. Devotees continuously chant prayers and the Ganapati Mantra to invoke his blessings. Pilgrims walk around each temple’s inner sanctum, often 3.5 times, echoing the cyclical nature of time. Tying a red thread at Morgaon and removing it at the final temple symbolises the shedding of sins. Many devotees observe fasts or perform special pujas during the pilgrimage and also listen to stories about Ganesha and his leelas, or divine acts, as part of the experience. Pilgrims observe fasting, avoid non-vegetarian food, and practice celibacy during the yatra to purify the mind and body.

The Ashtavinayaka circuit transcends mere temple-hopping; it is a metaphysical journey through Maharashtra’s heartland, blending devotion, mythology, and nature. Each temple’s unique narrative and the collective ritualistic voyage underscore the Hindu ethos of unity in diversity. For centuries, this pilgrimage has drawn kings, saints, and commoners alike, offering solace and strength. As you embark on this article series, each of the eight temples will reveal its distinct history, myths, and grandeur. Together, they form a mosaic of divine grace, making the Ashtavinayaka pilgrimage a truly transformative experience.