Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Divya Desams Part 22

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Ashtabujagaram Temple, Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
In Kanchipuram, a town layered with temples and philosophy, Ashtabujagaram stands with a quieter kind of strength. The presiding deity here is Ashtabuja Perumal, and the goddess is Alarmelmangai Thayar. The name itself tells the story. “Ashta” means eight, and “bhuja” means arms. Here, Vishnu appears with eight arms, each holding a weapon, yet the form does not feel aggressive. It feels protective. In a town known for debate and devotion, this temple speaks of something more basic and steady: protection without anger, power without noise.

The legend begins with Brahma once again. It is said that he was performing a yagna in Kanchipuram when Saraswati, displeased for reasons tied to pride and exclusion, tried to disrupt the ritual. In one version of the story, she sent fierce forces to disturb the sacrifice. The ritual fire trembled, and the atmosphere grew tense. Vishnu appeared to protect the yagna, taking on an eight-armed form so he could simultaneously hold multiple weapons and guard the space from all sides. Each arm carried a symbol: the conch, the discus, the bow, the arrow, the sword, the shield and other divine instruments, not as tools of attack but as signs of readiness. The message was clear. When chaos approaches from many directions, calm strength must meet it fully.

This temple also carries another layer of meaning. The eight arms are sometimes interpreted as representing the eight directions, suggesting that protection extends everywhere. There is no blind spot. Nothing is outside divine awareness. For devotees, this symbolism offers reassurance. Life often feels as if challenges arise from all sides at once. The form of Ashtabuja Perumal acknowledges that feeling without dramatising it. Instead of panic, the deity embodies composure. Even with eight arms, the expression remains steady.

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Historically, Ashtabujagaram carries the imprint of the Pallavas and later the Cholas, who shaped much of Kanchipuram’s sacred architecture. The temple’s foundation likely dates back to the Pallava period, when Kanchipuram was a flourishing centre of religion and learning. Chola rulers expanded and strengthened the structure, adding stone prakarams and refining ritual practices. Later contributions from Vijayanagara patrons introduced additional mandapams and structural reinforcements. Walking through the temple, you sense these layers, not as separate eras but as a continuous line of care. The temple has never tried to compete with the larger Varadaraja Perumal shrine nearby. It remains modest in scale, but firm in presence.

Architecturally, the temple reflects classic South Indian design in a more contained form. The gopuram is not towering, but it is dignified. The courtyard opens gently, guiding you toward the sanctum without distraction. Inside, the idol of Ashtabuja Perumal stands facing west, which is unusual and immediately draws attention. The eight arms are arranged with balance, not excess. There is symmetry in the posture, and that symmetry carries into the space itself. Alarmelmangai Thayar’s shrine offers warmth and emotional steadiness, softening the intensity of the armed form. Devotees often approach her first, not out of ritual obligation but instinctively, as if grounding themselves before stepping into the protective energy of the main sanctum.

One of the striking features of this temple is the sense of focus. Unlike larger temple complexes, where the scale can distract, Ashtabujagaram feels direct. You enter, you stand before the deity, and you absorb the image without layers of movement. The weapons in the Lord’s hands are visible, but they do not overwhelm. They suggest preparedness, not threat. The temple teaches that strength does not need to be loud to be effective.

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Daily worship here follows the Vaishnavite tradition, unfolding in a steady rhythm. The rituals are measured and calm. Suprabhatam opens the day, followed by alankaram and neivedyam, with evening aradhanai bringing closure. During festivals such as Vaikunta Ekadasi and Brahmotsavam, the temple sees increased activity, but even then, the mood remains composed. The Garuda Sevai is particularly meaningful, as the deity is taken out in procession, allowing devotees to see the eight-armed form in motion. Yet even in procession, the posture remains balanced.

The pilgrimage experience in Kanchipuram often involves visiting multiple Divya Desams in a single stretch, and Ashtabujagaram fits naturally into that rhythm. After the scale and philosophical depth of Varadaraja Perumal’s temple, this shrine feels more intimate. The streets around it are quieter. Small shops sell flowers and prasadam, and the atmosphere carries the everyday pace of a temple town rather than the surge of a major pilgrimage centre. Standing inside the sanctum, you become aware of the image more than the surroundings. The eight arms create a subtle sense of enclosure, as though the space itself is being guarded.

Culturally, Ashtabujagaram holds a steady place within the Divya Desam tradition. Thirumangai Alvar sang in praise of this temple, recognising the protective form of the Lord. His verses highlight the idea that divine intervention does not always arrive in dramatic miracles. Sometimes it arrives as quiet readiness. The temple’s identity has shaped local devotion in simple ways. People come here when they feel surrounded by difficulty. They pray for stability during periods when life feels unpredictable. The image of the eight-armed Lord becomes a reminder that strength can exist without aggression.

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In modern times, the temple continues its daily rhythm without disruption. Renovations have maintained the stone structure and improved lighting, but the essential character remains unchanged. Devotees still come seeking reassurance. Students pray before examinations, families seek blessings before major decisions, and elders return to a long habit. The temple does not attempt to reinvent itself. It does not need to. Its message remains clear.

Ashtabujagaram ultimately represents calm protection. The eight arms do not signal fear; they signal preparedness. In a Divya Desam journey filled with themes of expansion, teaching and surrender, this temple adds another layer: steady defence. It reminds you that strength can be composed, that readiness can be quiet, and that even when challenges approach from many directions, there is a presence that stands balanced at the centre.

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Thiruthanka Temple, Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu
In Kanchipuram, where temples rise one after another with layered histories and philosophies, Thiruthanka stands quietly, almost modestly, yet with a strong inner presence. The presiding deity here is Deepa Prakasa Perumal, and the goddess is Maragathavalli Thayar. The name “Thiruthanka” is often linked to “vilakkoli,” meaning the light of a lamp, and that meaning shapes the identity of this temple. This is not a shrine of dramatic myth or grand architecture. It is a temple of illumination. It speaks of light entering where there was confusion, of clarity replacing shadow.

The central legend begins, once again, with Brahma performing a yagna. As the story goes, Saraswati grew displeased and sought to disrupt the ritual. In some versions, she blocked the light itself, plunging the sacrificial space into darkness. Without light, the ritual could not continue. It was then that Vishnu appeared as Deepa Prakasa, the radiant one, restoring light to the space and allowing the yagna to proceed. The story is simple but layered. Darkness here is not merely physical; it represents doubt, confusion and ego. Light is not just flame; it is understanding. The Lord did not defeat an enemy in battle. He dispelled darkness by presence alone.

That theme of illumination shapes the way devotees approach Thiruthanka. The deity stands facing west, holding the conch and discus, but what defines the form is the sense of quiet radiance. There is no theatrical gesture. The expression is calm, steady and almost reflective. It feels as though the light comes from within rather than from ornament. Maragathavalli Thayar’s shrine adds warmth to the sanctum, grounding the brilliance of the Lord with gentleness. Devotees often move between the two shrines slowly, as if adjusting their own pace to match the temple’s tone.

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Historically, Thiruthanka carries the imprint of Kanchipuram’s long religious continuity. The temple likely dates back to the Pallava period, when Kanchipuram flourished as a centre of art and learning. Later Chola contributions strengthened the stone structure and formalised worship practices. The Vijayanagara era added mandapams and reinforced the complex, but the temple never expanded into a monumental scale. Its size remains intimate, almost intentionally so. That intimacy suits its theme. Light does not need vast corridors; it needs a steady flame.

The temple also carries a deep association with Vedanta Desikar, one of the foremost philosophers of Sri Vaishnavism. Desikar was born near this temple, and his presence is still felt strongly in the space. He is believed to have worshipped Deepa Prakasa Perumal here, drawing inspiration for his writings. The connection between light and knowledge becomes more than symbolic in this context. For Desikar, light was intellectual clarity and spiritual insight. For devotees today, the link remains alive. Students, scholars and seekers often visit Thiruthanka before beginning new phases of study or reflection.

Architecturally, the temple reflects classic South Indian design in restrained form. The gopuram is modest, the courtyard open and uncluttered. Stone pillars hold the mandapam without excess carving. Inside, the sanctum draws attention immediately to the deity. No distractions are competing for focus. Even the lighting inside feels purposeful, enhancing rather than overwhelming the image. The temple tank lies nearby, adding stillness to the environment. Everything about the space encourages pause.

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The daily worship follows the traditional Vaishnavite rhythm. Suprabhatam begins the morning, followed by alankaram and neivedyam. The rituals unfold without haste. On Vaikunta Ekadasi and during Brahmotsavam, the temple becomes more active, yet it never loses its composure. During special occasions, lamps are lit in greater numbers, reinforcing the temple’s identity as a place of light. The sight of rows of oil lamps glowing softly in the evening deepens the symbolism. It is not a spectacle. It is a steady brightness.

The pilgrimage experience at Thiruthanka feels personal. Unlike larger temples in Kanchipuram, this shrine allows for closeness. The streets around it are quiet, lined with homes and small shops. Entering the temple, you move almost immediately toward the sanctum. There is little distance between you and the deity. That proximity makes the encounter direct. Many devotees describe the experience as calming. The space does not overwhelm; it clears.

Culturally, Thiruthanka holds significance not because of size or scale but because of what it represents. The Alvars sang in praise of this temple, recognising the Lord who restores light. In Tamil devotional literature, light often stands for truth revealed after confusion. That theme has carried forward through generations. Families bring their children here before examinations. Individuals come when facing difficult decisions. The act of standing before Deepa Prakasa Perumal becomes a quiet affirmation that clarity will return.

In modern times, the temple continues to function with simplicity. Renovations have preserved the stone structure and improved basic facilities, but the character of the space remains unchanged. There is no attempt to modernise its atmosphere. The light that defines this temple does not depend on newness. It depends on continuity.

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Thiruthanka ultimately represents illumination without drama. Deepa Prakasa Perumal does not arrive with thunder or force. He appears as light in darkness, steady and sufficient. In the broader Divya Desam journey, this temple adds a reflective dimension. After encountering forms of expansion, protection and teaching in other shrines, here you encounter clarity. It reminds you that sometimes the greatest intervention is simply light entering a shadowed space

In My Hands Today…

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The Hidden Globe: How Wealth Hacks the World – Atossa Araxia Abrahamian

A globe shows the world we think we neatly delineated sovereign nations that grant or restrict their citizens’ rights. Beneath, above, and tucked inside their borders, however, another universe has been engineered into existence. It consists of thousands of extraterritorial zones that operate largely autonomously, and increasingly for the benefit of the wealthiest individuals and corporations.

Atossa Abrahamian traces the rise of this hidden globe to thirteenth-century Switzerland, where poor cantons marketed their only bodies, in the form of mercenary fighters. Over time, economists, theorists, statesmen, and consultants evolved ever more sophisticated ways of exporting and exploiting statelessness, in the form of free trade zones, flags of convenience, offshore detention centers, charter cities controlled by foreign corporations, and even into outer space. By mapping this countergeography, which decides who wins and who loses in the new global order—and helping us to see how it might be otherwise—The Hidden Globe fascinates, enrages, and inspires.

Mumbai Memories: Music Lessons, Missed Classes, and What Stayed

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Growing up in Mumbai, it almost felt like an unspoken rule that every child had to learn a classical art form. Music or dance, sometimes both. It was simply what one did. No one questioned it, and no one really explained it either. It sat somewhere between discipline, culture, and expectation.

My sister took to dancing naturally. As soon as she could, she signed up with a teacher in the neighbourhood and seemed entirely at ease with movement in a way I never was.

I, on the other hand, have always been, and remain, spectacularly uncoordinated.

Dance was never going to be my thing.

So music it was.

Carnatic classical music, to be precise.

There was a well-known fine arts academy in Matunga that conducted classes in a school building not far from ours. It offered lessons in both vocal music and instruments, and for many children in the area, it was a familiar part of growing up. When I was about six years old, I joined the vocal class.

Another girl joined at the same time. She was a classmate of my neighbour and lived in a building directly opposite mine. From her building, you could clearly see the approach road that led to the school where our classes were held.

That small detail became important.

Before each class, we would meet downstairs, lingering just a little longer than necessary. There was no urgency in our waiting. We would talk, watch the street, stretch out those few extra minutes of freedom.

And then, at some point, one of us would spot her.

The teacher.

Walking up the road, unhurried, entirely unaware of the small drama unfolding at a distance.

That was our cue.

We would immediately spring into action, running as fast as our legs could carry us, trying to reach the classroom before she did, as though arriving before the teacher somehow counted as being more prepared, or perhaps less guilty of our delay.

It was a small ritual, repeated week after week. Looking back, I suspect we enjoyed that moment more than the class itself.

I continued for about two years.

My friend stopped after the first year, and not long after, I followed. The decision was not dramatic. There was no particular incident, no sudden loss of interest. It was simply that I was not willing to give up my playtime two or three times a week to sit in a classroom learning something that required patience I did not yet have.

At that age, play always wins.

For a few years after that, music drifted in and out of my life. I would sing occasionally, mostly at home, without structure or discipline. It was there, but lightly held.

And then, when I was about ten or eleven years old, something shifted again.

A lady in my building came home one day to invite us to a concert she was organising with her friend. This friend lived nearby and was known to my parents. She had been learning music for many years and was now beginning to teach. The concert, as it turned out, was not just a performance. It was also a way of introducing herself to potential students.

I still remember sitting there, listening.

Something about that evening stayed with me. It was not just the music, though that was certainly part of it. It was the atmosphere. The stillness. The way everyone seemed to be listening with intention.

I came home and told my mother I wanted to start learning music again.

And so, I did.

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This time, it was different.

The classes were more structured, the expectations clearer. There were other students too, including a girl from my school who lived about fifteen minutes away. The group was small enough to feel personal, but large enough to create a sense of shared effort.

We sat cross-legged on the floor, notebooks open, repeating after the teacher. The steady drone of the shruti box filled the room, constant and unwavering, like a line we were expected to stay within. There was no rushing ahead. Each note had to be held, corrected, and repeated.

“Again,” she would say.

Not sharply. Not impatiently. Just firmly enough to let you know that almost right was not enough.

There is a particular kind of discipline that comes with learning classical music. It is not dramatic or visible. It lies in repetition. In practising the same notes and the same patterns over and over again until they begin to settle somewhere deeper than memory.

I stayed with it for about four years.

Long enough to understand that this was not something one mastered quickly. Long enough to feel both the frustration and the quiet satisfaction that comes with incremental progress.

And then, as it often happens, something else began to take precedence.

Studies.

By the time I reached class eight, the balance between schoolwork and everything else began to shift. Time became more structured, expectations more defined. Something had to give.

And once again, music classes were the thing that fell away.

But this time, it did not leave entirely.

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Even without formal lessons, music stayed.

It found its way into everyday life. Into quiet moments, into routines, into the spaces between tasks. I was always singing something, humming something, or listening to music. It did not require effort anymore. It had simply become part of how I existed.

And without realising it, I carried it forward.

When I was pregnant with GG and BB, I found myself singing to them. Not in any deliberate or planned way, but naturally. Carnatic music, yes, but also small ditties, rhymes, and the occasional Bollywood song that had made its way into memory.

And then, when they were born, that continued.

Music became part of their early world, too.

It was not something I consciously decided to pass on. It was simply there, as it had been for me.

And when they turned seven, they both began formal music training.

What followed, however, reminded me that no two journeys are the same.

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BB stopped when he reached puberty, and his voice broke. It was a practical decision, and perhaps an inevitable one. But music did not leave him either. It stayed, just in a different form. He sings informally, listens to music constantly, and engages with it in his own way.

GG, on the other hand, continued.

And continues still.

Through PSLE, through O levels, through polytechnic, and now university, music has remained her constant. There have been pauses, of course. Moments where studies took over, where classes were missed. But she always returns.

It is, quite clearly, her happy place.

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Looking back, what strikes me is not how long or how well any of us learned music in a formal sense.

It is how it stayed.

In different forms, at different intensities, across different phases of life. Sometimes structured, sometimes casual. Sometimes central, sometimes in the background.

It never really left.

And perhaps that is the point of these early lessons.

Not mastery.

Not performance.

But familiarity.

The knowledge that something exists, that it can be returned to, that it can sit quietly within you without demanding constant attention.

I never became a trained classical singer.

But I became someone for whom music is always within reach.

And somewhere along the way, that feels like enough.

In My Hands Today…

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Four Points of the Compass: The Unexpected History of Direction – Jerry Brotton

North, south, east, and west: almost all societies use these four cardinal directions to orientate themselves and to understand who they are by projecting where they are. For millennia, these four directions have been foundational to our travel, navigation, and exploration, and are central to the imaginative, moral, and political geography of virtually every culture in the world. Yet they are far more subjective—and sometimes contradictory—than we might realize.

Four Points of the Compass takes us on a journey of directional discovery. Societies have understood and defined directions in very different ways based on their locations in time and space. Historian Jerry Brotton reveals why Hebrew culture privileges east; why Renaissance Europeans began drawing north at the top of their maps; why early Islam revered the south; why the Aztecs used five color-coded cardinal directions; and why no societies, primitive or modern, have ever orientated themselves westwards. In doing so, politically-loaded but widely used terms such as the “Middle East,” the “Global South,” the “West Indies,” the “Orient,” and even the “western world” take on new meanings. Who decided on these terms and what do they mean for geopolitics? How have directions like “east” and “west” taken on the status of cultural identities—or more accurately stereotypes?

Yet today, because of GPS capability, cardinal points are less relevant. Online, we place ourselves at the center of the map as little blue dots moving across geospatial apps; we have become the most important compass point, though in the process we’ve disconnected ourselves from the natural world. Imagining what future changes technology may impose, Jerry Brotton skillfully reminds us how crucial the four cardinal directions have been to everyone who has ever walked our planet.

Recipes: Iru Puli Kuzambu

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Belonging to the family of kuzambus, Iru Puli Kuzambu is what results from sambar and mor kozambu marrying and having a baby! I heard about this kozambu in the WhatsApp group of the retirement community my parents live in, and everyone was raving about this dish. I was intrigued and decided to find out more.

This is one of those deeply comforting dishes that manages to be both rustic and complex. It’s a beautiful example of heritage Tamil Brahmin cuisine, particularly from the Iyer households of the Thanjavur and Tirunelveli regions. The name “Iru Puli” literally means “two kinds of sourness,” traditionally referring to the combination of tamarind, or puli, and buttermilk, or mor, which are used in the same dish. That’s what makes it unique: it layers tanginess in a way that’s both subtle and rounded.

Iru Puli Kuzambu is considered a heritage recipe, often cooked on special occasions or when families want to use up leftover buttermilk without waste, a very Tamil way of resourcefulness. Many households in the Cauvery delta region, especially in Kumbakonam, Mayavaram, and Tirunelveli, still make this dish exactly as their grandmothers did, without onions, as part of the pathiya samayal or satvik style.

I made it slightly differently because I only had baby onions or sambar onions and white pumpkin at home. You can use any vegetable you use for a sambar, but if you want to go traditional, then don’t use onions or garlic in this recipe.

Iru Puli Kuzhambu

Ingredients:

  • 3 cups peeled and cubed vegetables
  • Lemon-sized ball of tamarind, soaked in warm water for 20-30 minutes
  • ½ cup yoghurt, beaten well
  • ½ tsp turmeric powder
  • Salt to taste
  • ¼ cup fresh grated coconut
  • 4-5 dried red chillies (adjust according to the chilli’s heat and your spice tolerance)
  • ¼ tsp fenugreek or methi seeds
  • ½ tsp raw rice, soaked in water for 20-30 minutes
  • ½ tsp mustard seeds
  • 5-6 curry leaves
  • ⅛ tsp asafoetida
  • Oil as required

Method:

  • Extract the water from the tamarind pulp and keep it aside.
  • Whisk the yoghurt and add some water to thin it, and keep it aside.
  • Drain the water from the rice and keep it aside.
  • In a small pan, add 1 tsp of oil, and once the oil warms up, add the fenugreek seeds and then the red chillies. Let them sauté for a few seconds until the fenugreek seeds turn golden brown. Keep aside.
  • Add this to a mixer along with the drained rice and coconut and grind into a fine paste. Add water as needed.
  • In the same pan, add 2 tsp oil and add the mustard seeds and let them sputter. Then add the curry leaves and let them crisp a bit.
  • Now add the vegetables you plan to use. Sauté for a few seconds, then add the turmeric powder and asafoetida, and continue to sauté.
  • Add 1 cup of water and salt, and let the vegetables cook until they are 50% done.
  • Now add the tamarind water and cook for an additional five minutes, until the raw smell of the tamarind has dissipated.
  • Now add the ground paste, mix well, and add more water if the kuzhambu is thick.
  • Let this come to a rolling boil and cook for another 3-5 minutes.
  • Lower the flame and add the whisked yoghurt. While adding in the yoghurt, make sure you are continuously stirring the kuzhambu.
  • As the kuzambu comes to a boil, let it boil for a minute and switch off the flame.
  • Serve with rice and any curry of your choice.

Note: The key to this dish is balance. Too much tamarind and the yoghurt flavour disappears; too much yoghurt and it becomes mor kuzhambu. The ideal ratio is about 2:1 tamarind to buttermilk.