Festivals of India: Hampi Utsav

There are some places we arrive at long before we ever visit them. Hampi is one of those places. It exists first as a scattering of images and ideas. Granite boulders balanced in improbable stillness. Temple corridors stretching into the shadow. The remembered outline of the Virupaksha Temple rises against a sky that feels older than the structure itself. For many of us, Hampi enters the imagination not as a destination but as a mood. Something between absence and persistence.

Then comes Hampi Utsav, a festival that attempts something quietly ambitious. It does not just invite visitors into a historical site. It asks a ruined landscape to speak again. This instinct is not unique to India. Across the world, historical sites are increasingly activated through light, performance, and curated experience, each attempting to make the past feel present. The question is not whether this impulse exists, but how each place negotiates it.

This is where the idea becomes interesting, and also where it becomes complicated.

Hampi is inseparable from the Vijayanagara Empire, a political and cultural formation that, at its height, supported a city of extraordinary scale. Contemporary accounts describe markets where precious stones were traded in the open, temple complexes that functioned as economic and ritual centres, and a court that patronised music, literature, and architecture with deliberate intent. This was not a quiet, sacred landscape. It was a dense, working city shaped by power, wealth, and movement. Any attempt to animate Hampi through a festival inevitably engages with that past, not as nostalgia, but as interpretation.

Festival as Spectacle

Conceptually, this makes sense. A place that was once dense with courtly life, music, trade, ritual, and movement now stands as a field of ruins. A festival appears, with its performances, processions, lighting, and staged cultural programmes, and tries to reintroduce some version of that lost vitality. The instinct is understandable. Human beings do not like silence in places that once held noise.

Yet the question remains. What kind of life is being reintroduced, and on whose terms?

During Hampi Utsav, the site is transformed. Classical dance performances unfold against temple backdrops. Folk traditions from across Karnataka are brought together and presented in curated sequences. There are processions, music concerts, and visual spectacles designed to draw both domestic and international audiences. Illumination plays a central role. Structures that once stood in a functional relationship to a living city are lit in ways that emphasise their visual drama.

On one level, this is effective. It works. The festival creates access. It brings people to a site they might otherwise ignore. It offers a way in, especially for those who are not historians or archaeologists. In that sense, it keeps Hampi in circulation, not just as a static monument, but as something that still matters in contemporary cultural life.

But effectiveness is not the same as accuracy, and access is not the same as understanding.

The tension begins here.

A festival compresses time into something legible. It draws from multiple traditions and arranges them into a sequence that can be experienced within a few hours. This act of arrangement is not neutral. It privileges what can be performed and appreciated in a limited frame. In a place like Hampi, where the remains already reflect fragmentation, this layering of coherence can feel both helpful and misleading at once.

The Battle of Talikota marks a turning point that cannot be ignored. The empire’s decline was not a slow fading but a violent disruption. What remains today is not simply the residue of time but the aftermath of destruction. To place a festival within this landscape is to enter into conversation with that rupture, whether consciously or not.

Does Hampi Utsav acknowledge this history, or does it smooth it over?

To be fair, no festival can hold the full complexity of a historical site. Nor should it try to become a textbook. Its purpose is different. It works through experience rather than argument. Through atmosphere rather than analysis. Expecting it to carry the entire burden of historical truth would be unreasonable.

Yet it is also worth asking whether the festival risks creating a version of the past that is too coherent. Too resolved.

The Ruins Themselves

The Vijayanagara Empire, in its historical reality, was not just a site of cultural brilliance. It was also a political entity with its own hierarchies, conflicts, and limits. The life of the city extended beyond temples and courtly performance into labour, trade, and everyday existence.

A curated festival tends to privilege the visible and the aesthetic. It foregrounds performance traditions that can be staged, appreciated, and circulated. Less visible are the structures that made that culture possible. The workers, the systems of patronage, the social arrangements that sustained the empire’s scale.

This is not a flaw unique to Hampi Utsav. It is a broader pattern in how heritage is presented. Across sites as different as Angkor Wat or the evening illuminations at the Colosseum, the same logic appears. What can be staged, lit, narrated, and circulated becomes what survives in public memory. What resists performance recedes.

At the same time, dismissing the festival as a mere spectacle would be too easy and also inaccurate.

There is something undeniably compelling about seeing classical dance unfold within the architectural grammar that once hosted similar expressions, even if the continuity is partial. There is value in gathering diverse traditions from across Karnataka and placing them in dialogue within a shared historical setting. There is a certain seriousness in the attempt, even when the execution leans towards display.

Perhaps the more useful question is not whether the festival is authentic or artificial, but how we, as observers, choose to engage with it. This is where Hampi differs in a subtle but important way. In many global heritage sites, the staging is designed to create a seamless experience, one that resolves the past into something consumable. Hampi resists that, even during the festival. The terrain interrupts. The scale refuses neat framing. The ruins do not fully cooperate.

If one arrives at Hampi Utsav expecting to experience the Vijayanagara Empire, disappointment is almost guaranteed. No festival can reconstruct a living city. But if one approaches it as an interpretive layer, one among many ways of encountering Hampi, then it becomes more interesting.

The ruins remain. They do not disappear under the lighting or the performances. They continue to resist full explanation. The festival, in this sense, does not replace the site. It sits on top of it, sometimes uneasily, sometimes effectively, but never completely.

And this brings us back to the original instinct. The desire to make a place speak again.

There is a risk in that instinct. It assumes that silence is a problem to be solved. But silence can also be a form of presence. The ruins of Hampi do not need constant interpretation to remain meaningful. In fact, some of their power lies in what they refuse to resolve.

Festivals like Hampi Utsav sit at the edge of this contradiction. They are necessary, and they are insufficient.

They are necessary because cultural memory does not sustain itself automatically. It requires attention, repetition, and sometimes even spectacle to remain visible. Without such interventions, places like Hampi risk becoming distant, admired in theory but rarely encountered.

But they are insufficient because they cannot hold the full weight of what they attempt to represent. They simplify, even when they do so carefully. They organise what was once organic. They present what was once lived.

The more precise question is whether they encourage a deeper encounter, or whether they allow us to feel that we have already understood.

If the festival becomes an endpoint, a complete experience in itself, then it reduces Hampi to something manageable. Something consumed.

But if it functions as an entry point, a way of drawing attention that leads to further curiosity, then it begins to justify its own existence.

Hampi Utsav matters. But perhaps it matters most when it leaves something unfinished. In a world where heritage is increasingly packaged into complete experiences, there is something valuable about a place that still resists closure. The place we first encountered in our imagination was never complete to begin with. It arrived as fragments, as a suggestion, as quiet persistence. The festival does not need to resolve that. It only needs to point us back to the ruins and allow them to remain what they are.

The Inheritance We Rarely Talk About

“Your daughter carries your lineage forward, not your son.”

It is one sentence, almost deceptively simple. At first glance, it sounds provocative. Perhaps even designed to provoke outrage in cultures deeply invested in the idea of sons as heirs and carriers of the family line. Yet the sentence lingers because it quietly unsettles one of humanity’s oldest social assumptions.

For centuries, patriarchal societies across the world have centred sons in conversations about legacy, inheritance, lineage, continuity, and family identity. Sons inherit surnames, sons are expected to continue the bloodlines, sons perform last rites in many cultures, and sons are seen as carrying the family name into the future.

Daughters, meanwhile, are often treated as temporary members of the household. In some parts of the world, phrases like “raising another family’s daughter” still exist. Women marry and traditionally leave their homes, their surnames, and sometimes even large parts of their identities behind. Even today, children are overwhelmingly identified through their father’s names and family lines.

And yet, from a biological perspective, the story becomes far more complicated. The sentence resonates because it exposes a contradiction between how societies define lineage and how life itself is physically carried forward. It opens a deeper conversation about biology, inheritance, patriarchy, memory, caregiving, and what human legacy actually means.

The science behind the statement is not entirely symbolic. One of the most discussed examples is mitochondrial DNA, which is passed almost exclusively from mothers to children. Fathers contribute nuclear DNA, but mitochondrial DNA, inherited through the maternal line, moves through generations via daughters. Sons receive it, but generally do not pass it onward.

This has allowed scientists to trace maternal ancestry across vast stretches of human history. In evolutionary biology, the concept of “Mitochondrial Eve” refers to the most recent common matrilineal ancestor from whom all living humans inherited their mitochondrial DNA. The phrase does not suggest there was only one woman alive at the time, but it highlights something fascinating: maternal lineage leaves a distinct biological trail through history.

Suddenly, the old cultural narrative begins to wobble slightly. The irony is striking. Many societies spent centuries insisting that sons carried lineage while simultaneously depending upon women to physically create, sustain, nurture, and transmit life itself. Of course, biology alone cannot explain the emotional force of the statement. What truly gives it weight is the historical imbalance surrounding how societies have valued men and women differently.

Most patriarchal cultures have overvalued sons in visible and institutional ways. Sons inherited property, family names, wealth, titles, religious authority, and social prestige. In many communities, the birth of a son was celebrated differently from the birth of a daughter. Families continued trying for boys after multiple daughters. In some places, a family was considered “complete” only once a male child arrived.

These attitudes were not random. They emerged from systems built around inheritance, warfare, labour, religion, property ownership, and male-controlled power structures. Patriarchy did not simply privilege men socially. It shaped how human continuity itself was imagined.

Yet underneath these systems existed another reality, quieter but no less important. Women carried civilisation forward in ways history often underacknowledged. Not only through childbirth, though that alone is extraordinary enough, but through caregiving, oral storytelling, emotional continuity, ritual preservation, and the daily labour of holding families and communities together. Across cultures, daughters frequently became the emotional archivists of family life. They remembered birthdays, maintained kinship ties, preserved traditions, cared for ageing parents, and passed stories between generations.
Much of this work remained invisible precisely because it was feminised.

Societies frequently glorified motherhood symbolically while limiting women socially. Mothers were revered in poetry, religion, and cultural rhetoric, yet denied equal autonomy, inheritance, authority, or recognition. Women gave birth to children who were then absorbed into the father’s lineage, surname, clan, and family identity. There is a strange emotional contradiction in that arrangement.

A woman physically carries life within her body for months, experiences the risks and transformations of pregnancy, contributes profoundly to the child’s earliest biological environment, and often becomes the primary emotional caregiver, yet the child is culturally framed as belonging primarily to the father’s family line.

The question becomes difficult to ignore: who exactly defines lineage, and why? Historically, men largely controlled inheritance systems, legal institutions, religious structures, and property rights. It is, therefore, unsurprising that lineage itself became defined through male continuity. Family names followed fathers. Dynasties followed fathers. Historical memory often followed fathers.

But lineage has never been purely biological. Even societies obsessed with bloodlines understood this instinctively. What survives across generations is not merely DNA. It is memory. Values. Stories. Rituals. Emotional inheritance. Ways of seeing the world.
This is perhaps where daughters have historically played a far larger role than societies openly acknowledged.

In many families, women become the carriers of emotional continuity. They remember recipes, customs, songs, languages, festivals, family histories, and the emotional geography of relationships. They become bridges between generations. Anthropologists have long noted that women frequently act as social connectors within kinship networks, maintaining ties that men sometimes participate in more loosely.

This does not mean men are incapable of caregiving or emotional preservation. Rather, societies traditionally conditioned women into these responsibilities while often giving men greater freedom from them.

Patriarchy created a peculiar imbalance: women were expected to preserve culture while men were publicly credited with representing it. Even surnames reveal something revealing about this system. In many cultures, women lose or change their surnames after marriage, symbolically entering another family line. The practice is so normalised that questioning it can seem radical despite how deeply identity-altering it actually is. A woman may spend her entire childhood associated with one family name only to relinquish it in adulthood.
Yet even within these systems, resistance exists quietly. Many women now retain their surnames, hyphenate them, or seek ways to preserve maternal identity within family structures. These choices may seem administrative on the surface, but they often carry deeper emotional meaning. They challenge centuries-old assumptions about who gets remembered and how.

Interestingly, not all societies historically organised themselves around strict patriarchal lineage. Several matrilineal or matriarchal communities around the world structured inheritance and family identity differently. In India, the Khasi community of Meghalaya is one of the most well-known examples. Property traditionally passes through daughters, especially the youngest daughter, and children take the mother’s surname. Maternal uncles often play major roles in family structures. The Nairs of Kerala historically followed matrilineal systems as well, with lineage and inheritance traced through women. Similar patterns appear in parts of Indonesia, China, Africa, and among some Indigenous communities globally.

These societies complicate the idea that patriarchy is somehow biologically inevitable. They remind us that human cultures are constructed systems, not fixed laws of nature.
At the same time, even matrilineal societies are not necessarily perfect reversals of patriarchy. Power dynamics remain complicated. Yet they offer important evidence that lineage itself can be imagined differently.

The biology surrounding motherhood deepens this conversation further. Pregnancy is not merely a passive process where women “carry” babies. Maternal health, stress, nutrition, environment, and emotional wellbeing can shape foetal development profoundly. Epigenetics, the study of how behaviours and environments influence gene expression, suggests that experiences may leave biological traces across generations.

Researchers continue exploring how trauma, famine, stress, and environmental exposure affect descendants through epigenetic changes. The science is still developing, but it reinforces an idea many cultures intuitively understood long before genetics existed: mothers shape generations in ways deeper than visible inheritance alone.

Even the language surrounding pregnancy often understates the scale of what women physically do. Human reproduction is frequently framed socially rather than biologically. Yet from a physical perspective, women create life using their own bodies as the environment through which future generations first encounter existence.

This reality becomes strangely minimised in patriarchal cultures that centre male lineage so heavily. Perhaps this explains why the sentence about daughters carrying lineage feels emotionally charged. It does not merely present a scientific curiosity. It exposes a historical imbalance between recognition and reality.

Still, the article cannot become simplistic. Patriarchy is not merely the result of men consciously suppressing women because they understood female biological importance. Human societies evolved through complicated mixtures of survival, labour division, violence, inheritance structures, religion, economics, migration, and social organisation.
Yet it is difficult to ignore how frequently women’s contributions became both essential and undervalued simultaneously.

Women have often carried enormous responsibility while receiving limited authority. They preserved households while lacking ownership over them. They transmitted culture while being excluded from shaping formal institutions. They sustained communities emotionally while remaining underrepresented in historical memory.

Even today, traces of these patterns remain everywhere. Women continue performing disproportionate amounts of unpaid emotional and caregiving labour globally. Daughters are still frequently expected to care for ageing parents more than sons. Cultural traditions often rely heavily upon women to preserve them. At the same time, many societies still subtly prioritise male continuity in language, inheritance, and social status.

Modern urban cultures may be shifting gradually, but patriarchy remains deeply embedded structurally. Most children still inherit paternal surnames. Family identity still tends to follow fathers socially. Many women continue facing pressure surrounding marriage, motherhood, and domestic expectations in ways men do not experience equally.

The emotional impact of all this becomes especially visible in motherhood itself. Societies often celebrate mothers abstractly while controlling women concretely. Motherhood is idealised, sanctified, and romanticised, yet actual mothers may receive limited structural support, autonomy, or recognition. The same culture that reveres mothers may still deny women equal authority over inheritance, naming conventions, reproductive choices, or public power.

There is something profoundly contradictory about that arrangement. Perhaps the deeper power of the original sentence lies not in proving daughters are biologically “more important” than sons. That would simply reverse one hierarchy into another. Its real significance lies in forcing reconsideration.

What if lineage was never only about surnames, inheritance, or male continuity? What if lineage is actually carried through memory, care, values, emotional continuity, and the countless invisible ways human beings shape one another across generations? If that is true, then women have always carried civilisation forward far more deeply than historical systems often acknowledged.

This does not diminish fathers or sons. Nor does it reduce women to biology or motherhood. Not all women become mothers, and no woman’s worth should depend upon reproduction. The conversation is larger than that. It is about recognising how societies define significance itself. For centuries, visible power was coded masculine, while invisible sustaining labour was coded feminine. Public achievement was remembered more easily than emotional continuity. Dynasties and surnames became historical markers while caregiving and preservation faded quietly into the background despite being equally essential to human survival.

Yet memory has its own kind of endurance. People are often remembered within families differently along gendered lines. Men may be remembered through status, professions, achievements, or public roles. Women are frequently remembered through relationships, emotional warmth, rituals, food, caregiving, and family continuity.

One form of legacy is not necessarily greater than the other. But history has rarely valued them equally. Perhaps that imbalance is slowly beginning to shift. More people now question naming conventions, inheritance assumptions, caregiving expectations, and gendered family roles. Feminist thought has expanded conversations about invisible labour, emotional work, reproductive justice, and historical erasure. Science itself has also complicated simplistic ideas about lineage and inheritance.

And maybe that is why the sentence resonates so strongly now. Because it arrives at a moment when many women are reassessing what they were told about family, identity, legacy, and belonging. For generations, daughters were often taught they would eventually leave one family to join another. Yet many women continued carrying emotional continuity between generations regardless of where they lived or what surnames they held. They remained the keepers of stories, rituals, relationships, and care.

Perhaps lineage was never as simple as societies claimed. Perhaps the people who carried humanity forward were not always the ones history centred most visibly. And perhaps the future will require redefining lineage itself, not as ownership or patriarchal continuity, but as the human responsibility to preserve life, memory, dignity, and connection across generations.

If so, daughters have been carrying it all along.

Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Divya Desams – Part 29

Thiruvallur Temple, Thiruvallur, Tamil Nadu
Thiruvallur, located not far from Chennai, is one of the most well-known Divya Desams in northern Tamil Nadu, and yet it carries a quietness that stays with you long after you leave. The presiding deity here is Veera Raghava Perumal, and the goddess is Kanakavalli Thayar. The temple is also known as Thiru Evvul, a name that comes from a simple but meaningful question. When a sage once asked the Lord, “Evvul?” or “Where shall you stay?”, Vishnu chose to remain here. That act of choosing to stay, of not moving on, shapes the identity of this temple. It is not built around a moment of action. It is built around presence.

The central legend of Thiruvallur begins with a sage named Salihotra. According to tradition, he lived a life of discipline and simplicity, offering food daily to anyone who came seeking it. One day, an old man arrived at his hermitage, tired and hungry. The sage offered him food, and the old man ate everything that was served. When he asked for more, the sage gave whatever he had left without hesitation. After the meal, the old man asked for a place to rest. The sage agreed, and the guest lay down, placing his head on the sage’s lap. It was only then that the truth was revealed. The old man was Vishnu himself, testing the depth of the sage’s generosity. When the sage asked where the Lord would stay, the answer came not in words but in action. The Lord remained there, reclining in the same posture, and the place came to be known as Thiru Evvul, the place where the Lord chose to stay.

That story shapes the way the deity is seen in this temple. Veera Raghava Perumal is in a reclining posture, resting on Adisesha, but unlike many reclining forms of Vishnu that convey cosmic rest, this form feels closer to human experience. The Lord lies as one who has come as a guest and stayed as a presence. There is something deeply accessible about this image. It does not distance the devotee. It invites them closer. Kanakavalli Thayar’s shrine adds warmth to the space, grounding the experience in compassion. Devotees often move between the two shrines with a sense of familiarity, as though the temple allows for a more personal kind of prayer.

Another important layer of Thiruvallur’s identity is its association with healing. The temple tank, known as Hridaya Pushkarini, is believed to have curative properties, especially for ailments connected with the heart. The connection between the heart and this temple feels appropriate. The central story is about generosity, trust and the ability to give without calculation. It is about the kind of openness that allows the divine to enter quietly. In that sense, healing here is not only physical. It is also emotional. The temple speaks to those who feel burdened, tired or uncertain, offering a space where one can rest without being asked to explain everything.

Historically, Thiruvallur has been an active and important temple for centuries. The structure carries the imprint of Chola and later Vijayanagara patronage, with inscriptions that point to sustained support for rituals, festivals and temple maintenance. Unlike smaller shrines that remained largely local, Thiruvallur grew into a significant pilgrimage site over time. Its location close to Chennai also contributed to its continued relevance. Yet even with that visibility, the temple has retained a sense of inwardness. It does not feel like a place that has been shaped by crowds. It still feels like a place shaped by a story.

Architecturally, the temple follows the familiar Dravidian style, with a tall gopuram marking the entrance and prakarams guiding the movement inward. The corridors are wide enough to hold festival processions, and the mandapams reflect later additions that expanded the temple’s capacity without altering its core identity. The sanctum, however, remains the emotional centre. The reclining form of Veera Raghava Perumal draws the eye immediately, and the stillness of that image shapes the entire experience. There is no rush here. Even the architecture seems to support a slower pace.

The daily rituals follow the Vaishnavite tradition, with multiple pujas performed throughout the day. The temple becomes especially active during Brahmotsavam, Vaikunta Ekadasi and other major festivals, when the deity is taken out in procession, and the town itself becomes part of the temple’s rhythm. Yet even during these times, the image of the reclining Lord anchors the space. The sense of rest remains intact.

For pilgrims, the experience of Thiruvallur is often shaped by contrast. Coming from busier temples or crowded urban spaces, the act of standing before a deity who is simply resting creates a shift. There is no dramatic gesture to interpret, no intense narrative to hold onto in that moment. Instead, there is quiet. The story of the sage and the guest begins to settle in the mind. One starts to think about what it means to give without knowing who is receiving, to offer without expecting return, and to trust that such acts are seen even when they seem small.

Culturally, Thiruvallur holds a strong place within the Divya Desam tradition through the hymns of the Alvars, who recognised the presence of the Lord here and preserved its memory in the Divya Prabandham. Over time, the temple also became known as a place where prayers for health, especially heart-related concerns, are offered with faith. Families return here across generations, carrying stories of recovery, relief and quiet reassurance. These layers of belief do not feel imposed. They grow naturally out of the temple’s central theme of care and presence.

In modern times, Thiruvallur continues to function as a living temple with steady footfall from both local devotees and pilgrims following the Divya Desam circuit. Renovations and maintenance have preserved the structure, but the core atmosphere remains unchanged. The temple still feels like a place where one can sit, stand or simply remain without urgency.

Thiruvallur ultimately represents rest as a form of grace. Veera Raghava Perumal does not arrive here in motion or in battle. He arrives, stays and rests. The story of Salihotra reminds us that generosity does not always announce itself, but it creates space for the divine to enter. In the larger Divya Desam journey, this temple adds a quiet but important truth. Not every sacred moment is about action. Some are about staying, listening and allowing presence to do its work.

Thiruvallikeni Temple, Chennai, Tamil Nadu
In Chennai, where the city moves fast, and the coastline carries its own rhythm, Thiruvallikeni feels like a place that has learned to hold both movement and stillness together. The presiding deity here is Parthasarathy Perumal, Krishna in his role as the charioteer of Arjuna, with Vedavalli Thayar as the goddess. The name Thiruvallikeni comes from alli, referring to lily or lotus, and keni, meaning pond, pointing to the temple tank that once held blooming lilies. Over time, the place came to be known as Triplicane, but the older name still holds the temple’s original mood. It reminds you that this was once a quieter landscape, shaped by water, reflection and steady devotion, long before it became part of a dense city.

What makes this temple distinct is the form of Krishna that it preserves. Parthasarathy is not the playful child of Vrindavan or the philosophical teacher of the Bhagavad Gita in isolation. Here, he stands as the charioteer in the middle of conflict, guiding Arjuna through confusion, doubt and moral tension. The temple holds onto that moment from the Mahabharata where Krishna chooses not to fight, but to guide. Even the idol reflects the lived reality. The face of the deity bears marks said to represent the wounds Krishna took during the war, and he is depicted with a moustache, an uncommon feature that gives the form a more grounded, almost human presence. This is not a distant or idealised figure. This is Krishna who stood in the dust of the battlefield and chose to remain.

The mythology of the temple is closely tied to this role. It is believed that the temple was established by King Sumati, who wished to see Krishna in his Parthasarathy form. The Lord granted that wish, appearing not as the all-powerful deity who resolves everything instantly, but as the one who stays beside the devotee and guides them through complexity. That distinction matters. The temple does not promise escape from life’s conflicts. It reflects the presence that helps you move through them with clarity.

Inside the temple, this idea takes physical form. Parthasarathy Perumal stands in the sanctum with his family, including Rukmini, Balarama, Satyaki, Pradyumna and Aniruddha. The presence of the extended family adds another layer to the temple’s identity. It is not only about the individual devotee and the Lord. It is about relationships, responsibilities and the interconnected nature of life. The sanctum does not isolate Krishna as a solitary figure. It places him within a wider context, just as the Mahabharata places him within the complexity of human ties.

Historically, Thiruvallikeni is one of the oldest temples in Chennai, with roots that go back to the Pallava period. Later, Chola and Vijayanagara rulers expanded and maintained the temple, ensuring that it remained an active centre of worship. Over centuries, as Chennai grew around it, the temple adapted without losing its identity. Today it stands in the middle of a busy neighbourhood, surrounded by narrow streets, shops and constant movement, and yet once inside, the atmosphere shifts. The temple holds its own space within the city.

Architecturally, the temple follows the traditional Dravidian style, with a prominent gopuram marking the entrance and multiple prakarams leading inward. The temple tank, known as Kairavini Pushkarini, lies beside the complex and continues to be an important part of ritual life. The corridors carry the sound of chanting, and the mandapams reflect the additions made over centuries. Yet the focus remains on the sanctum, where the form of Parthasarathy draws attention not through ornament but through presence.

The daily rituals here follow the Vaishnavite tradition, but they unfold within the rhythm of a living city. Morning prayers begin before the streets outside fully awaken, and by evening, the temple fills with devotees returning after a day’s work. Festivals such as Brahmotsavam, Vaikunta Ekadasi and the float festival bring large gatherings, with processions moving through the surrounding streets. During these times, the boundary between temple and city becomes thinner. The deity moves through the neighbourhood, and the neighbourhood responds in return.

The pilgrimage experience at Thiruvallikeni is shaped by this closeness to everyday life. You do not approach the temple through long stretches of quiet landscape. You arrive through traffic, shops and noise, and then step into a space that holds something older and steadier. That contrast is part of the experience. It reflects the role of Parthasarathy himself. Krishna did not stand apart from life. He stood within it, guiding from the center rather than from a distance.

Culturally, Thiruvallikeni has a strong place in the Divya Desam tradition, with hymns by the Alvars, especially Thirumangai Alvar, praising the deity here. Over time, the temple has also become deeply woven into the identity of Chennai itself. For many, it is not just a pilgrimage site but a familiar presence, part of the rhythm of daily life. The temple’s festivals, rituals and sounds have shaped the neighbourhood for generations.

In modern times, Thiruvallikeni continues to function as both a major temple and a lived space within the city. It receives a steady flow of devotees, from those following the Divya Desam circuit to those who come as part of their everyday routine. Renovations and maintenance have kept the structure intact, but the essential character of the temple remains unchanged. It still feels grounded, present and close to the lives around it.

Thiruvallikeni ultimately represents the divine in the middle of life, not outside it. Parthasarathy Perumal stands not as a distant figure offering easy answers, but as the guide who stays beside you when things are unclear. In the larger Divya Desam journey, this temple brings the message of companionship. It reminds you that guidance does not always remove conflict. Sometimes it simply helps you face it with steadiness.

The Disappearing Art of Doing Nothing

Doing nothing sounds simple until one actually tries to do it.

Sit still. Put the phone away. Do not read. Do not scroll. Do not make a list. Do not mentally draft an email, plan the week, remember the groceries, check the blood sugar reader, open a book, play a game, rearrange a thought, or wonder whether this stillness can be turned into something useful later.

Just sit.

For some people, this may sound peaceful. For me, it sounds luxurious, desirable, and almost impossible. I like the idea of doing nothing. In theory, it is sitting in a quiet room, perhaps lying down, staring into space, letting the mind settle like dust after a cupboard has been opened. But in reality, my brain does not settle. My mind behaves as if twenty browser tabs are open and one of them is playing music, usually at 2 am when I have woken up to use the toilet and should, by all logic, return to sleep.

Doing nothing is hard for me. Even when my body is still, my mind is moving. If I have a few minutes with no obvious task, my hand automatically reaches for my phone. I check social media, open a game, read Reddit, or go into my library app because if a story has hooked me, even a lift ride can become reading time. I fill small silences before they have a chance to become silence.

I do not particularly like this. But it is also part of modern life, and pretending otherwise would be dishonest.

We live in a world that has trained us to treat every gap as an opportunity. Waiting for the kettle? Check the phone. Waiting for the bus? Check the phone. Eating alone? Watch something. Sitting in bed? Scroll. Resting? Optimise the rest. Record the rest. Turn the rest into a morning routine, a Sunday reset, a wellness ritual, a slow-living aesthetic with soft lighting and a ceramic mug placed just so.

Even doing nothing, it seems, now has to work for its keep.

There is an irony in watching videos about slow living and self-care, knowing how much work must have gone into making them. The lighting, the camera angles, the editing, the captions, the music, the deliberate casualness of it all. Rest has become content. Stillness has become performance. The person filming their peaceful morning has probably spent more time arranging the shot than being peaceful.

I say this without judgment because I, too, enjoy watching such content. It is soothing in the way a clean kitchen in someone else’s house is soothing. But it also makes me laugh a little. We have become so uncomfortable with unproductive time that even leisure must be packaged, captioned, and posted.

This is perhaps why the art of doing nothing is disappearing. Not because we no longer desire it, but because we no longer know how to defend it.

As children, we had more empty time, whether we liked it or not. Growing up in Mumbai, I hated being bored. If I complained to my paternal grandmother that I was bored, she had a line in Tamil that sounded far better than any translation could manage. If I said, “Bore adikkaradu,” she would say, “Bore-a adi,” meaning “beat the boredom back”. In other words, boredom was not a crisis requiring adult intervention. It was something to be wrestled with, survived, and transformed.

Source

And we did transform it.

We read anything we could find. We invented games. We produced little plays. We pretended. We made things up. We stood on balconies and watched the world go by. I loved doing that, standing on the balcony and observing the street below. People walking, vehicles passing, neighbours talking, vendors calling out, the ordinary theatre of city life continuing whether or not one had anything to do.

There was a kind of richness in that unstructured look. No one called it mindfulness then. No one had to. It was simply what one did when there was nothing else to do.

I also daydreamed, especially at night when I could not sleep. I still do sometimes, though less often in the day now. Adult life has a way of shrinking the room available for aimless imagination. Daydreaming becomes something we squeeze between responsibilities or something that arrives only when sleep refuses to.

Children today have less of this empty time. BB and GG’s childhood still had some creativity in it. They played with dolls, board games, blocks, and toys. They were not exposed to social media very early. But once school, tuition, enrichment classes, and devices entered the picture, childhood became more scheduled. This is not unique to them. It is the rhythm of many children’s lives now: school, homework, tuition, activities, screens, repeat.

Some structure is good. Children need encouragement, discipline, and exposure. A little pressure can help them grow. But beyond a point, childhood becomes a calendar rather than a landscape. There is no time to wander. No time to invent a game out of nothing. No time to sit with boredom long enough for it to turn into imagination.

And boredom does have a purpose. It is not merely the absence of entertainment. It is where children meet themselves. It is where they learn to create, observe, wait, and think. If every moment is filled for them, they never discover what their own minds can do when left alone.

Of course, adults are not much better.

Singapore, where I live now, is a difficult place in which to do nothing. It is efficient, achievement-driven, scheduled, expensive, and always moving. There is always something to do, and often something that should have been done yesterday. Planning is rewarded. Productivity is admired. The calendar is a survival tool. Even leisure is often organised in advance.

There are still places where I can zone out. At home, when the house is quiet. At the beach or in a park. In the library. On the upper deck of a bus, sitting by the window, watching the city move past. At the airport, oddly enough, especially when I am alone. Airports are perfect places for doing nothing because everyone is between places. No one fully belongs there for long. You can sit, watch people, imagine stories, and feel suspended from ordinary time. A long-haul flight offers something similar. Once the plane takes off, life below has to wait. No errands. No chores. No immediate demands. Just time, air, and a small screen one may or may not use.

India offers a different relationship with doing nothing. The India I grew up in was noisy, crowded, and full of constant cacophony, so doing nothing was never exactly quiet. But there were natural pauses, partly because life was less efficient. Waiting was built into the day. Waiting for buses, trains, relatives, phone calls, water, electricity, and information. Power cuts forced everyone to stop. Train journeys made one look out of the window. Neighbours dropped in. People sat around. Balconies, building compounds, and street corners became informal theatres of nothing in particular.

Now, when I go to Bangalore, I still find pockets of time to zone out. But India too has changed. Everyone has a smartphone. Everyone has internet. The pause has been colonised. Whether in India or Singapore, the hand goes to the phone. The old art of sitting and doing nothing has been replaced by the new habit of sitting and consuming something.

The phone may be the greatest enemy of nothingness. It is useful, addictive, entertaining, and always available. It rescues us from boredom so quickly that we no longer learn what boredom might have given us. It makes waiting painless but also makes thinking rarer. It connects us to everyone and disconnects us from the quiet inside ourselves.

This matters because doing nothing is not always nothing.

For a writer, especially, empty time is not wasted time. Ideas often arrive when I am not chasing them. During my morning walk with my meditation app. In the shower. While cooking. Before sleep. While drinking coffee. Sometimes in the most random places and moments. Writing needs empty space. It needs the mind to loosen its grip on usefulness. It needs time when nothing obvious is being produced, because below the surface, something is forming.

I do not usually mistake thinking time for laziness. I know that thought is part of writing. But knowing this does not always remove the guilt. When life has so many moving parts: job searching, writing, income streams, blog work, Echoes of Calm, family, health, Image Mission work, there is always something that could be done. One more application. One more article. One more Canva template. One more email. One more plan. One more post. One more idea to capture before it disappears.

In such a life, doing nothing can feel irresponsible.

This is where productivity culture becomes dangerous. It teaches us that every moment must justify itself. Rest must improve performance. Hobbies must become income streams. Walking must count as fitness. Reading must contribute to growth. Writing must build a platform. Creativity must be monetised. Even a blog, which may begin as a personal space for reflection, memory, and expression, is quickly assessed through the lens of money.

For years after I started blogging, when I told people about it, I was often asked whether it made money. The question came so frequently that I eventually had to shut it down firmly. Not everything has to earn. Not every joy has to be converted into income. Not every act of expression must be weighed on the scale of productivity.

Yet I understand why people ask. We live in a world where time is money, and therefore time spent without earning, improving, networking, or producing appears suspect. Doing nothing becomes not merely a personal failure but an economic one. What did you get out of it? What did it lead to? How did it help?

Maybe it helped me remain human. That should be enough, though it often is not accepted as an answer.

Women, in particular, are rarely allowed to do nothing without judgment. A man resting is often simply resting. A woman resting is available. If she is sitting down, surely she can fold the laundry. If she has a free hour, surely she can cook something extra, organise a cupboard, call someone, supervise homework, plan a meal, reply to messages, soothe a feeling, remember an appointment, or be useful in some way.

Women are expected to fill empty space. Cooking, cleaning, organising, remembering, caring, planning, messaging, hosting, helping. Even rest can become a waiting room for the next task.

In some families, if a woman has free time, it must be explained. She cannot just sit. She must be tired, sick, upset, or lazy. Simple rest is not enough justification. This is one of the quiet injustices of domestic life. Women’s time is often treated as communal property. Everyone may draw from it. Everyone may assume it is available.

Motherhood deepens this. When BB and GG were young, I barely had time to myself. Later, as they grew older, I reclaimed more of it, but until they finished school, there was always an undercurrent of alertness. Meals, schoolwork, activities, health, logistics, emotional needs, exam schedules, transport, forms, uniforms, tuition, everything. Even when I was not actively doing something, some part of me was on standby.

That standby mode does not switch off easily. Even now, doing nothing can feel slightly suspicious, as though someone somewhere must need something.

This is why chosen stillness feels so different from forced waiting. There is a kind of nothing that is peaceful: morning coffee in a silent house, a walk without hurry, sitting at a window, watching rain. But there is also a kind of nothing that is anxious and unpleasant: waiting when there is too much work, waiting for replies, waiting for results, waiting in uncertainty, waiting while the mind chews through every possible outcome.

Chosen stillness restores. Forced waiting drains.

This distinction matters because not everyone has the privilege to romanticise doing nothing. For someone juggling multiple jobs, caregiving, financial stress, illness, or survival, rest may not be easily available. Telling people to “slow down” can sound tone-deaf when their lives do not allow it. The issue is not simply individual choice. It is also social, economic, and cultural. Some people are not restless because they lack wisdom. They are restless because life demands it.

Still, within whatever space we have, however small, we need moments that are not claimed by productivity.

Health has taught me this in its own way. Managing diabetes means paying attention to the body, even when the mind wants to keep charging ahead. I use a CGM, and scanning it is itself a morning ritual. I know that being more rested helps me manage my blood sugar better. Stress, sleep, food, movement, and rest are all connected. The body keeps its own accounts, whether or not we acknowledge them.

Perhaps doing nothing is not nothing to the body. Perhaps it is repair.

The trouble is, I am not always listening closely enough to hear that. Like many people, I wait for the body to speak loudly before I pay attention. Fatigue must become exhaustion. Stress must become numbers on a screen. The mind must become too noisy to ignore. Only then do I pause, when pausing should have come much earlier.

Midlife adds another layer. As I grow older, I feel both more entitled to rest and more anxious about time. Doing nothing can feel like reclaiming time, but it can also feel like wasting it. The years no longer stretch endlessly ahead in the way they seemed to when I was young. There is a sharper awareness now that time is finite. This can make rest feel precious, but also make it feel dangerous. What am I doing with my life? What am I not doing? What should I have done by now?

Midlife asks uncomfortable questions. One of them is: what am I rushing toward, exactly?

We hurry through days as though there will be a final clearing where everything is done and rest becomes permissible. But that clearing never arrives. There is always another task, another worry, another plan. If rest has to be earned by finishing everything, we will never rest. The list is immortal. We are not.

Perhaps the art of doing nothing disappeared because the world prioritises busyness. Busy people look important. Busy lives look successful. Busy calendars suggest demand and relevance. To say “I am busy” is almost a badge of honour. To say “I did nothing” feels like a confession.

But what are we losing when we lose the ability to do nothing?

We lose imagination. We lose patience. We lose the ability to observe without needing to capture. We lose the inner life that grows only in quiet. We lose boredom, and with it the strange creativity boredom can unlock. We lose the ability to be alone with ourselves. We lose reflection. We lose the habit of noticing beauty when it is not presented to us through a screen.

We also lose a certain tenderness towards time. Not all time has to be used. Some time can simply be lived.

I admire people who still seem able to do this. Older people sitting at void decks, shooting the breeze with no visible agenda. Temple-goers sitting quietly after darshan, not rushing out immediately after the ritual is done. Children staring into space. People sitting in parks. Someone with a cup of tea and nowhere urgent to be. These scenes stay with me because they feel increasingly rare. They are small acts of resistance against a world that asks, “What next?”

My ideal version of doing nothing is simple. Morning. I am the only one awake in the house. The room is quiet. I have a hot cup of coffee in my hand. My phone is nearby, not for scrolling, but to capture an idea if one arrives. I sit in silence. No one needs me yet. The day has not begun making its claims.

This is not dramatic. It will never trend. It cannot be turned into a productivity hack without ruining it. That is precisely why it matters.

Doing nothing does not mean abandoning responsibility. It does not mean laziness, though a part of me still carries that old conditioning. “Don’t waste time.” “Do something useful.” “Idle mind is the devil’s workshop.” “Why are you just sitting?” These phrases were common enough growing up, and I have used versions of them with BB and GG too. The inheritance continues even when we know better. We pass on not only values but anxieties.

Maybe the work now is to interrupt that inheritance.

To tell ourselves and our children that empty time is not wasted time. That rest need not be earned through exhaustion. That boredom will not destroy us. That creativity requires space. That the mind needs to wander. That the body needs to repair. That a woman sitting down is not automatically available. That a hobby does not have to become a side hustle. That not every moment must be captured, posted, measured, or improved.

The art of doing nothing is disappearing, but perhaps it is not gone. It waits in small places. In morning coffee. In a bus window. In the hush of a library. In a beach breeze. In the airport between flights. In a quiet walk. In the few minutes after lighting a lamp. In the pause after prayer. In the space before an idea becomes words.

Maybe doing nothing is not the opposite of living fully. Maybe it is what allows us to live fully.

So tomorrow morning, if the house is still quiet and the day has not yet rushed in, I hope to sit with my coffee for a few minutes longer. I will probably still reach for my phone. I am not pretending to be a saint of stillness. But perhaps I can wait before touching it. Perhaps I can let the silence arrive first. Perhaps I can allow my mind to wander without immediately making it useful.

A few minutes of nothing. Which, I am beginning to realise, may be something after all.

In My Hands Today…

The Notebook: A History of Thinking on Paper – Roland Allen

The first history of the notebook, a simple invention that changed the way the world thinks.

We see notebooks everywhere we go. But where did this simple invention come from? How did they revolutionise our lives, and why are they such powerful tools for creativity? And how can using a notebook help you change the way you think?

In this wide-ranging story, Roland Allen reveals all the answers. Ranging from the bustling markets of medieval Florence to the quiet studies of our greatest thinkers, he follows a trail of dazzling ideas, revealing how the notebook became our most dependable and versatile tool for creative thinking. He tells the notebook stories of artists like Leonardo and Frida Kahlo, scientists from Isaac Newton to Marie Curie, and writers from Chaucer to Henry James. We watch Darwin developing his theory of evolution in tiny pocketbooks, see Agatha Christie plotting a hundred murders in scrappy exercise books, and learn how Bruce Chatwin unwittingly inspired the creation of the Moleskine.

On the way we meet a host of cooks, kings, sailors, fishermen, musicians, engineers, politicians, adventurers and mathematicians, who all used their notebooks as a space for thinking and to shape the modern world.

In an age of AI and digital overload, the humble notebook is more relevant than ever.

Allen shows how bullet points can combat ADHD, journals can ease PTSD, and patient diaries soften the trauma of reawakening from coma. The everyday act of moving a pen across paper can have profound consequences, changing the way we think and making us more creative, more productive — and happier.