Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 48 – Sarawak Part 5

Sarawak has about 30 national parks, each of which is different and extraordinary, although not all are accessible. Here are some of them.

Gunung Gading National Park
Often referred to as the home of the elusive Giant Flower, Gunung Gading National Park is located near the town of Lundu. The park is considered the best place in Asia to witness the rare Rafflesia plant which produces the world’s largest flower. This parasitic plant is 1 meter huge and blooms for a few days only. Other attractive features that draw attention are its colour-coded well-marked trails where tourists can trek and hike to the waterfalls or the peaks by these trails to picturesque views for a tranquil experience. Gunung Gading National Park also has several war remnants which makes it a place of historical importance. The Summit Trail and the Rafflesia Trail require the company of a professional guide provided by the Park. The tour can be arranged through travel agents who arrange for everything including the travel and guide.

Several tourists visit the park to see the rare Rafflesia flower which flowers only for a few days. Most of the flowers are found on the lower slopes of the mountains. This trail has a plank walk which follows the way where Rafflesia can be found. The best time to witness these flowers in bloom is November, December and January. Information about blooming flowers can be acquired from the Park’s headquarters or the National Park Booking Center in Kuching. The Waterfall Trail is one of the shortest trails leading to a series of seven waterfalls, though not all the waterfalls are accessible. Tourists are allowed to dip into the waters of Waterfall 1, 3 and 7. The trek is easy with a few steep slopes on the way. A trek to the 7th waterfall takes about an hour. The last waterfall is surrounded by fig trees and has a rocky valley with a crystal-clear water pool. This is the most taken trail and perfect for a day picnic.

The Gunung Gading Summit Trail is the longest and the most difficult trail at the park. The hike to the Gading Hill summit at the height of 965 m takes about 3 to 4 hours and is worth the picturesque view. One may get to see the Rafflesia flowers at the lower slopes of the hill while trekking. However, tourists are not allowed to camp or stay overnight, so it is recommended that people set off early and return to the headquarters on time.

The summit of Gunung Gading served as the British Army Camp in the 1960s and to date has preserved remnants of the war including a water tank, helipad and barbed wire fencing. The trek to Batu Bakubu is an extension of the Gunung Gading trail towards Baku Bakubu which was where the communist camp was located during the insurgency in the 1960s. This trail takes an additional 2.5 to 3.5 hours round trip from Gunung Gading.

There is very limited wildlife to be found at the Gunung Gading National Park. However, several reptiles and insects in the park can be spotted. Millipedes and lizards are the most common sightings. Incredible species of lizards can be spotted like the blue eye Borneo angle-head lizards. Gunung Gading is known for the rarely spotted Rafflesia flower which is the biggest flower that blooms with a diameter of 1 meter. The flower blooms in the monsoon season. It takes about 9 months for it to grow and get mature and then blooms for only 4 to 5 days. Other than Rafflesia, the park is majorly composed of Dipterocarp trees and Fig trees. The vegetation includes longer trees at the base of the mountains but the height decreases with the increasing altitude. The higher peaks are majorly low shrubs and trees.

There is no cafeteria inside the park and one should carry food and snacks from the town of Lundu which is 10 minutes away. Another alternative is to get supplies and cook food in the Lodge Kitchen for those staying at the Lodge. There are a few accommodation options at the park. One can spend a night at the Forest Lodge, Forest Hostel, or at the campsite. The Forest Lodge Type 5 cost RM 150 pr unit, while the Forest Hostel costs RM 40 per room or RM 15 per bed. Camping will set visitors RM 5 per person.

Tourists are not allowed to stay overnight during the long hard seven-hour treks to the summit. The treks should be planned accordingly such that one leaves early in the morning and returns to the park headquarters by late afternoon. The only accommodations are the Lodge, Hostel and Campsite and tourists are expected to return to these by evening.

Entry fees can be purchased at the entrance of the park only. Malaysian adults pay RM 10 while children pay RM 3 and those under the age of 6 get in for free. For non-Malaysians, adults pay RM 20 while children pay RM 7. The park is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm.

Kubah National Park
Located 20 km from Kuching, against the scenic backdrop of the Matang Range, the Kubah National Park covers an area of 2230 hectares on a plateau and offers its visitors clear streams with cascading waterfalls and bathing pools. Even though the park beholds a myriad of fauna, it is famed for its flora, especially the wide range of palm species.

The park has several well-marked trails ideal for trekking. The Waterfall Trail is the most famed as it provides a wonderful time in the cool bathing pools. Over the past few years, Kubah National Park has also come to be well known for its nocturnal frogs. The Matang Wildlife Center also forms a part of Kubah National Park.

The Gunung Serapi Summit which leads to the Serapi Summit is a 5-6 hour return trip. From the Summit, one can witness the picturesque panoramic view of Mount Santubong, the coastline and the mountain range which serves as a natural border with Indonesia. The Palmetum Trail is known for the different varieties of palm trees. The Selang Trail is one of the difficult trails as the last 500 m get steep. The climb is to be done with rope which ends at Bukit Selang. The view from the top is delightful and comprehensive with the Matang range in the backdrop and Santubong peninsula beneath. The most popular trail, the Waterfall Trail ends at a dipterocarp forest with streams and swamps, and the cascading waterfall with 10 meters depth is a perfect place to rest and relax after a long trek. The Rayu trail leads towards Matang Wildlife Center passing through Bintangor trees on the way. The trail crosses through Swampy lands and clear streams finally reaching the riverside picnic spot at the wildlife center.

Kubah National Park is very diverse in terms of fauna being one of the most diverse areas comprising more than 60 species of frogs. Often referred to as the world of Palms, Kubah National Park has more than 93 recorded species of Palms. The forest is mainly dipterocarp trees with patches of Kerangas forest and shrubs. Orchids and Pitcher Plants are a common sight.

The park is famed among birdwatchers due to the diverse birds inhabiting the area. Early in the morning and the evening are considered best for bird watching. Some indigenous Borneon birds include owls and Blyth’s frogmouth, Borneon black magpie, red-bearded bee-eater, Borneon blue flycatcher and blue banded pitta can be found here.
The park has an overnight accommodation facility which can be booked online or from the Kuching office in advance. There are Chalets, Rest houses and Hotels with limited bedding which require a pre-booking.

The park is open from 8 am to 5 pm, Monday to Friday and on weekends and public holidays is open from 7:30 am to 4:30 pm. On weekdays, the cut-off time for hiking is 11 am while it is 10 am on weekends and public holidays. Entry fees for foreigners are RM 20 for adults and RM 7 for children between 7 and 18. For Malaysians, entry fees are EM 10 for adults and RM 5 for children. Children under 6 years enter for free. A permit is required for professional photography and can be arranged in advance through the National Park’s booking office.

Semenggoh Nature Reserve
Located about 20 km from Kuching, Semenggoh Nature Reserve is one of the most diverse nature reserves serving as a rehabilitation centre for the primate orangutans and several bird species. The major highlights are orangutans feeding and bird watching.

The natural reserve was initially developed to protect animals who were injured or who were previously captivated to maintain an ecological balance. Semenggoh not only allows tourists to experience surprisingly extraordinary flora and fauna but also to communicate with the animals, especially through feeding them.

The Orangutans Gallery has been created to educate visitors about the similarities between orangutans and humans and also their feeding habits. The gallery comprises graphics which illustrate the DNA structure of orangutans, their mating season and their life cycle. The park has made significant efforts in protecting orangutans that were held captive earlier or the ones that were injured. Over the years the natural reserve has provided a healthy environment and a natural habitat for the orangutans to grow and multiply considerably. The orangutan feeding hours are from 9 to 10 am and between 3 and 4 pm. Tourists can feed the orangutans. However, when the trees are full of fruits, orangutans may refuse to eat from tourists.

The Botanical Research Centre is a nursery which protects different native and international species of flora from orchids to many fruits. The research centre also comprises a bamboo garden and a pond with a floating pavilion. One can easily spot many exotic species of birds including the Hooded Pitta, the Banded Broadbill, the Green Broadbill, the Blue-winged Leafbird, the Asian Paradise Flycatcher, the Crested Jay, and the Reddish Scops Owl. The most striking feature of Semenggoh is that the birds are not caged like in most zoos or natural parks. These are mostly migratory birds which one can easily spot either on the trees or the ponds inside the natural reserve.

The Wildlife Rehabilitation Centre aims at protecting injured, weak and endangered animals. This rehabilitation centre even trains orangutans once held captive to live and fetch food for themselves in the jungles. The Semenggoh Nature Reserve makes it a point to protect several species of animals that have lost their natural habitat.

The best time to visit the reserve is between April to October to see the maximum number of orangutans. Orangutans are comparatively less visible in other months because of the fruiting season. One should also visit during the feeding time of the day so that they get to feed the orangutans. The reserve is open from 8 am to 10 am and again from 2 to 4 pm. Entry fees are RM 10 for adults, RM 5 for senior citizens and those with disabilities as well as children between the ages of 7 and 18 while children below the age of 6 enter for free.

Kuching Wetlands National Park
One of the last remains of the former Sarawak Mangrove Forest Reserve, the Kuching Wetlands National Park or Taman Negara Tanah Lembap Kuching is located about 30 km from Kuching. The park is filled with saline mangrove plantations and tourists can explore the lush greenery and vegetation of the park on a river cruise. It also houses some endangered species. The Wetlands National Park was gazetted in 1992 and covers an area of 66.1 sq km on the estuarine reaches of the Sibu Laut and Salak rivers. The park is composed of coastal, marine and freshwater ecosystems. The predominantly saline and deltaic mangrove system includes an extensive network of marine waterways and tidal creeks, formed by the interconnecting rivers of Sungei Sibu-Laut, Batang Salak and Sungei Santubong that form the boundary of the park. Some small patches of heath forest are found within the park.

The park is the home of at least three predominantly arboreal primates; the endangered proboscis monkey or Nasalis larvatus, the long-tailed macaques and the silvered langurs. White-bellied sea eagles, mudskippers and horseshoe crabs are also present. Hairy-nosed otters, Irrawaddy dolphins, and saltwater crocodiles can also be sighted. On nearby Mount Santubong, hornbills can be seen.

In the 12th century, the area was an important trading post between the interior peoples for their jungle produce predominantly animal parts valuable in Chinese medicine traded with the Chinese for their pottery and earthenwares. Past and existing excavations have unearthed remains of the former Iron smelting industries active hundreds of years past. The Impressive Mt. Santubong acted as a clear navigational point for these traders no doubt.

One should not miss the day tour spent cruising through the Salak River, passing through a Malay fishing village, catching glimpses of wild animals like crocodiles and trying to spot the infamous snub-nosed Irrawaddy dolphins. When one visits the park in the evening, it is just in time to catch the magical and romantic sunset on the water and the firefly tree known as the api-api tree which lies amidst shimmering green lights. The cruise begins at the mouth of the Santubong and Salak Rivers, the point which is known as Santubong Boat Club. The boat takes the tourists from the village of Santubong to the park through the meandering rivers of Salak and Sibu Laut. Tour operators provide pick-up options from the hotel as well, which can be availed for convenience.

Many jobs depend upon this habitat for the rich abundance of fish that are spawned and grow amongst the protection of the root systems. Timber is extracted for construction and several charcoal factories. The tourism industry is starting to grow offering wildlife cruises. The heavy decline in the proboscis monkey population caused by hunting was largely arrested by the educational efforts of the Sarawak Forestry Department protecting and banning the trade of these animals. Mangroves serve as important coastal defences absorbing strong waves and reputably up to 95% of the waves’ energy in extreme cases, such as a tsunami or king tide limiting damage. This attribute alone should be cause to justify their existence. Extensive development predominantly housing but including quarrying and retail premises is occurring outside the park boundary. These habitats are used by the many animals found in the park, thus increasing the pressure on this small reserve. As future development increases surrounding the park the existing gene pool will have to suffice since breeding between animals outside the park will no longer be possible. The park is open from 9 am to 8 pm, Mondays to Saturdays and closed on Sundays.

Talang Satang National Park
Malaysia’s first Marine National Park, Talang Satang National Park is home to an array of marine life including the endangered Green and Hawksbill Turtle. Talang Satang is the first site in the world to emphasise turtle research and management and covers the four islands Pulau Talang-Talang Besar, Pulau Talang-Talang Kecil, Pulau Satang Besar and Pulau Satang Kecil and surrounding coral reefs.. The park also has rich coral reefs and underwater life.

Talang Satang is open to nature tourism although its primary purpose is nature conservation. The park was established to protect marine turtles; four species of marine turtles are known to nest in the park, including green turtles and hawksbill turtles. Although turtles come ashore all year round, the main nesting season is from April to October.

The main attraction at the park is the Sarawak Turtle Volunteer Programme. Other activities include diving and snorkelling in the clean waters which are the ideal way to spot the rare turtles and graceful corals. Only day trips are allowed at the Park. Tourists are allowed to visit Satang Island only with restricted visits. Only volunteers are allowed at Talang Talang Kecil and Talang Talang Besar. A permit is to be arranged in advance by those who want to do professional photography or filmmaking.

The Turtle Hatchery located on the Pulau Satang Besar is a major land attraction visited by tourists. The tourist group is accompanied by a warden. The hatchery is more like a natural hatchery where one can witness the eggs and hatchlings, if lucky! The best time to visit June to August as several turtles visit the shore to lay eggs. Scuba Diving is allowed in the designated zone only. The booking for the same has to be done in advance. Diving equipment can be rented from the Sarawak Forestry Operations Office. It is compulsory to have a dive guide while engaging in this activity. The visibility in the waters is 3 meters to 10 meters. The area has several colorful coral reefs and a diverse marine life which makes it worth diving. Snorkelling is also restricted to the designated areas. While diving and snorkelling, one can witness the magnificent small and hard coral, feather stars and Gorgonian Sea Fans along with small fishes and Green Turtles.

Sarawak Forestry has a unique volunteering programme, the Sarawak Sea Turtle Programme which allows volunteers to stay and help with the work for four days. During the programme, volunteers are expected to help with the basic chores like cooking, cleaning and the accommodation is very basic. In terms of experience, volunteers get to learn new information about the turtles. The duties allotted to the volunteers include beach patrolling to locate turtle arrivals, measuring the turtles, shifting the eggs to the hatchery and then releasing the hatchlings, monitoring the nesting activities of turtles and data management. The Park mainly comprises underwater marine life with colourful coral reefs. Two major underwater vegetation include Gregorian sea fans and feather stars.

Talang Satang can be reached by a 30-minute boat ride from Sarawak Boat Club Jetty, Damai Beach, or Telaga Air Jetty. However, these boat services do not operate regularly. The tourists are only allowed to travel as organised groups with pre-booking. The park is open from 8 am to 5 pm every day, including public holidays.