Travel Bucket List: India – Madhya Pradesh Part 2

Posted on October 28, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

We’ll start with the state capital of Bhopal as we usually do. Known as the City of Lakes for its various natural and artificial lakes, Bhopal is the capital of the state and is known as one of the greenest cities of India. After formation of Madhya Pradesh, the state capital Bhopal was a part of the Sehore district. It was bifurcated in 1972 and a new district Bhopal was formed.

Founded in 1707, the city was the capital of the former Bhopal State, a princely state of the British ruled by the Nawabs of Bhopal. Numerous heritage structures from this period include the Taj-ul-Masajid and Taj Mahal palace. In December 1984, the city was struck by the Bhopal disaster, one of the worst industrial disasters in history when a Union Carbide India Limited (UCIL) pesticide manufacturing plant, now owned by Dow Chemical Company leaked a mixture of deadly gases composed mainly of methyl isocyanate, leading to one of the worst industrial disasters in the world’s history. The Bhopal disaster continues to be a part of the socio-political debate and a logistical challenge for the people of Bhopal.

According to folklore, Bhopal was founded in the 11th century by the Paramara king Bhoja, who ruled from his capital at Dhar. This theory states that Bhopal was originally known as Bhojpal after a dam or pal was constructed by the king’s minister. No archaeological evidence, inscriptions or historical texts support the claim about an earlier settlement founded by Bhoja at the same place. An alternative theory says that the city is named after another king called Bhupala or Bhupal. In the early 18th century, Bhopal was a small village in the Gond kingdom. The modern Bhopal city was established by Dost Mohammad Khan who ruled between 1672 and 1728, a Pashtun soldier in the Mughal army. After the death of the emperor Aurangzeb, Khan started providing mercenary services to local chieftains in the politically unstable Malwa region. In 1709, he took on the lease of Berasia estate and later annexed several territories in the region to establish the Bhopal State. Khan received the territory of Bhopal from the Gond queen Kamlapati in lieu of payment for mercenary services and usurped her kingdom after her death. In the 1720s, he built the Fatehgarh fort in the village, which developed into the city of Bhopal over the next few decades.

Bhopal became a princely state after signing a treaty with the British East India Company in 1818. Between 1819 and 1926, the state was ruled by four women, Begums who were unique in the royalty of those days, under British suzerainty. Qudsia Begum was the first woman ruler who ruled between 1819 and 1837, who was succeeded by her granddaughter, Shah Jehan. Between the years of 1844 and 1860, when Shah Jehan was a child, her mother Sikandar, the only daughter of Qudsia, ruled as regent, and was then recognised as ruler in 1860. She ruled until 1868, when Shah Jehan succeeded her and was Begum until 1901. In 1901, Shah Jehan’s daughter Kaikhusrau Jahan became Begum, ruled until 1926, and was the last of the female line of succession. In 1926, she abdicated in favour of her son, Hamidullah Khan, who ruled until 1947, and was the last of the sovereign Nawabs. The rule of Begums gave the city its waterworks, railways, a postal system, and a municipality which was constituted in 1907.

Bhopal State was the second-largest Muslim-ruled princely state, the first being Hyderabad. After India’s independence in 1947, the last Nawab expressed his wish to retain Bhopal as a separate state. Agitations against the Nawab broke out in December 1948. Later the Nawab signed the agreement for Bhopal’s merger with the Union of India on 30 April 1949 and Bhopal state merged into the Indian Union on 1 June 1949.

So let’s see what are the important places to visit in and around Bhopal.

Upper and Lower Lake: In the city of lakes, Upper Lake is the most significant lake in Bhopal and is commonly known as Bhojtal and Bada Talab, it is the oldest human-made lake in the country and lies to the west of the city. The lake is the primary source of potable water to the residents of the city and is named after King Bhoj who built the lake across Kolans River in the 11^th century. According to folklore, the king constructed this humongous lake to cure himself of his skin disease. The pillar on one corner of the lake holds the statue of Raja Bhoj. Upper Lake is separated from Lower lake by an overbridge called the Pul Pukhta. On the eastern side of the lake, the boat club offers water sports such as parasailing, kayaking, canoeing and rafting. The scenic and royal Kamala Park overlooks the lake. The lake is open from 6 am to 7 pm every day and there is no entrance fee.

Also known as Chhota Talab, the Lower lake is separated by an overbridge to the Upper Lake. The lake was built in 1794 to commemorate the beauty of the city and construction took place under Chote Khan, a minister of Nawab Hayat Muhammad Khan Bahadur. The lake has no source of freshwater hence receives seepage from Upper Lake and makes the Bhoj Wetlands along with Upper Lake. The Lower Lake is open from 9 am to 5 pm and like the Upper Lake has no entrance fees to access it.

Van Vihar: A National Park and a Zoological Space that operates under the guidelines of the Central Zoo Authority, Van Vihar is located just adjacent to the Upper Lake, near Shymala Hills. The animals here are kept closest to their natural habitats, making it a haven for people who love nature. You can spot a vast variety of animals including leopards, cheetah, Neelgai, panthers, etc. as well as birds such as kingfishers, bulbuls, wagtails, and some migratory species. The best time to visit here is between July and September when the chances of seeing a white tiger are the highest. Sprawling over a vast area of 4.45 sq.km, this protected area ensures animals are safe from poaching and other illegal activities. The national park categorises animals in 2 categories, i.e., carnivores and herbivores. Herbivores are allowed to roam freely whereas carnivores are kept in enclosed areas. The land is strictly under protection so as to safeguard its flora and fauna. Make sure you take the safari ride to enjoy it even more. Between April and July, Van Vihar is open between 6 am to 7 am in in the months between August to October, it is open from 6:30 am to 6 pm. From 01 November to 15 February, it is open from 6:30 am to 6 pm and from 16^th February to the end of March, you can visit between 6:30 am to 6:30 pm. Make sure you set aside half a day to check out Van Vihar in full and Indians pay INR 20 as entry fee while foreigners will need to INR 200 per person. A camera will require INR 40 while a video camera will need a fee of INR 300 to allow you to shoot inside the park.

Udayagiri Caves: A magnificent set of twenty sculpted caves dating back to the early 5th century, the Udayagiri Caves hold within their walls some of the most ancient icon drawings and carvings. Located near Vidisha, the inscriptions inside the Udayagiri Caves are said to be from the reign of the Gupta period. Managed by the Archaeological Survey of India, the caves have drawings which depict stories from the epics, most significantly that of Lord Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi and Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. Open from 9 am to 6 pm every day, the entry fee to access the Udayagiri Caves is INR 15 per person for Indians and INR 200 per person for foreigners.

Bhimbetka: Exhibiting the earliest traces of human life on the Indian subcontinent and the beginning of the South Asian Sone Age, the Bhimbetka rock shelters are home to more than 500 rock shelters and caves which have a large number of paintings. The oldest paintings are considered to be 30,000 years old, but some of the geometric figures date to as recently as the medieval period. The colours used are vegetable colours which have endured through time because the drawings were generally made deep inside a niche or on inner walls. Named so for the wide range of caves, which encapsulate almost the entire Indian history, from the ages of early man to the time of the Mughals, Bhimbetka which is located in Vidisha, about 55 km south of Bhopal. The best time to visit Bhimbetka is between October and March as the mild winter months make it the best time to visit. Avoid the summer months as the climate is quite unforgiving while the monsoon season is also a nice time to visit. The Bhimbetka Caves were declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2003. The caves are open to visitors throughout the week from 7 am to 6 pm. Entry fees for an Indian visitor is INR 10 per person while a foreign visitor will need to pay INR 100.

Halali Dam & Reservoir: A lakeside reservoir on the Halali River in Raisen and formerly known as Thal River, the Halali Dam lies about 42 km north of Bhopal towards Sanchi is Halali. The reservoir is a tributary of the Betwa river with a catchment area of around 699 sq km. Also known as Samrat Ashok Sagar Project, the Halali Dam reservoir was commissioned in 1973. The colossal dam is a local favourite picnic spot with a varied aquatic life. According to locals, Dost Muhamad Khan a Nawab ruler killed a rival force from Rajput near Jagdishpur on the bank of the tributary as a result of which the river became red with the victim’s blood. After that, the name of the river became Halali or the river of slaughter. The dam is open to visitors between 8 am to 4 pm daily and there is no entry fee to visit the dam.

Sanchi Stupa: The Buddhist monuments of Sanchi are one of the oldest stone structures in India. Designated a World Heritage site by UNESCO, the Great Stupa, built in the Greco-Buddhist style, was installed in the 3rd century BC by Emperor Ashoka of the Mauryan dynasty. The stupa sits atop a hill in Sanchi, 48 km northeast of Bhopal, just before the town of Vidisha. The Mauryan king undertook the task of redistributing the mortal remains of Lord Buddha all across the face of the country in order to spread the reach of Buddhism. The gigantic hemispherical dome of the Stupa, more than 50 ft high with a diameter of more than 30m contains a central vault where the relics of Lord Buddha have been placed. The height of the stupa is about 54 feet. Sanchi is known for its ancient Stupas, monasteries, the Ashoka Pillar, Toranas or ornate gateways with intricate carvings and other remnants of the rich Buddhist culture which date back to the 3rd century BC. It is one of the most important places for Buddhist pilgrimage and pilgrims from around the world visit this place. The national emblem of India was derived from the Ashoka Pillar of Sanchi Stupa. Every stupa has three fundamental features, the Anda, or the sacred hemispherical mound within which lies the sacred remains of Lord Buddha. The Anda in the Sanchi Stupa has a solid core and cannot be entered. The Square railing or harmika situated in the centre marks the sacred burial site and the Chattra or the large hemispherical umbrella-like structure that covers the burial site completes this magnificent structure. The Great Stupa has 3 circular umbrella disks, representative of the three jewels, or Triantha of Buddhism. These chattras are supproted by a large central pillar. In addition to these fundamental structures, the Sanchi Stupa has additional features that add to its glory. Lord Buddha has been symbolically represented through the use of the figures like thrones, wheels and footprints among others. There are four intricately decorated gateways in the four cardinal directions, joined by a balustrade wall that encloses the entire monument. Various designs and motifs are carved on the railing and the gates of the Stupa. A sandstone pillar, inscribed with Schism Edict by Ashoka can be found at the site. An ornate spiral from the Gupta period, with Brahmi characters resembling conch shells, referred to as ‘Shankhalipi’ or ‘shell-script’, was later installed at the location. The Stupa remains open for visitors from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm every day. Entry fee for Indians and nationals from from SAARC and BIMSTEC nations including Bangladesh, Nepal, Bhutan, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, Maldives, Afghanistan, Thailand and Myanmar is INR 10 per person while for others it is INR 250 per person. Children under the age of 15 enter free.

Raisen Fort: The 800-year-old Raisen Fort, an abode to hundreds of bats today, has nine gateways, fortifications, domes and the remains of several buildings from the early medieval period. Located atop a hill overlooking a water body. The fort is also a shrine of a Muslim saint Hazrat Peer Fatehullah Shah Baba and it is believed that the shrine can fulfil the desires of the pilgrims. Until the 16th century, the fort was under the domination of the Rajputs and other Hindu rulers. Although the nawabs of Bhopal initially captured the fort, it is presently under the custody of ASI. The magnificent fort stands on an outlier of a rock which has a massive stone wall pierced with nine gateways. Adorned with a large courtyard and a beautiful pool in the middle, the origin of the Raisen fort dates back to the year 1200. With four palaces, including Badal Mahal, Rohini Mahal, Itradaan Mahal & Hawa Mahal within its boundaries, the fort also houses a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The doors of the temple open every year on the occasion of Shivratri and pilgrims who visit the temple on other days tie a piece of cloth on the grill gate for the fulfilment of their wishes. Raisen fort also has plenty of rock shelters with paintings created by the cave dwellers. The fort is open from 10 am to 5 pm daily and there is no entry fee to enter.

Islamnagar Fort: Located around 15 km north of Bhopal, the Islamnagar Fort is located in the quaint village of Islamnagar on the Bhopal-Berasia Road. The village has endured Afghan rule, and the grandeur of that is mirrored in the architecture, and structure of the buildings. Originally built as a defense against enemy attacks, today the fort is in ruins. The fort is open from 8 am to 6 pm daily and has no entry fees.

Rani Kamlapati Palace: A tribute to Bhopal’s glorious past, the Rani Kamlapati Palace, the residence of Rani Kamlapati, is located in the heart of the Kamla park. The palace forms part of the Gond Fort and is perched along the banks of Upper Lake, a clear reflection of the Mughal and the modern architectural styles fused into a graceful art that adorns the face of the building. Queen Kamlapati was the wife of a Hindu Gond Tribe warlord named Nawal Shah when Bhopal was the territory of Gond tribes who owned the palace overlooking the Upper Lake and Lower Lake. Raja Bhoj built the palace over the massive wall of the dam separating the two lakes. The 18^th century palace is century built of Lakhauri bricks, cusped arches over crumpled pillars. The merlons are shaped as water lotuses honouring the name of the Queen. According to the history of the palace, Queen Kamlapati committed suicide by jumping into the lake in 1723. West of the palace lies the remains of the Fatehgarh Fort built by Sardar Dost who took over the palace soon after the queen’s demise. This monument is a maze of pillars and long stairs with lunging arches towards the garden and balconies facing the lakefront. The significant part of the living heritage is now the office for the archaeological survey of India who are its present custodians. The palace is open between 10 am to 5 pm and there is no entry fee to visit the palace.

Lakshmi Narayan Temple: Set atop the striking Arera Hills, the Lakshmi Narayan Temple was built as a tribute to the Hindu Goddess of wealth, Lakshmi, and her consort Lord Vishnu. Besides the beautiful idols of Lakshmi and Vishnu, the temple also houses a reclining idol of Lord Shiva with his wife Goddess Parvati. The Birla Museum attached to the temple exhibits marvellous sculptures dating back to the 12th century! The temple, besides being a religious abode, offers outstanding views of the Old Bhopal city. A magnificent archway welcomes devotees at the entrance that leads to a picturesque of finely crafted Hindu sculptures. The sandy-yellowish colour of the temple and the contagious greenery of the gardens adds an antique appeal to its ambience. The temple remains open for worship from 6:30 am to 7 pm every day.

Bhojpur Temple: Another stunning heritage built by Raja Bhoj in the 11th century, the Bhojpur Temple is a tribute to the Hindu God Shiva, nestled in the rustic village of Bhojpur, about 28 km south of central Bhopal. The construction of the temple is incomplete, and the reasons for abandonment of construction aren not clear. Harboring a 7.5 feet high lingam, a symbol of Lord Shiva, the temple with it’s majestic remains is open to pilgrims from 6 am to 7 pm daily. You can also find the complete architectural plans of the temple, inscribed on the surrounding rocks.

Bijasan Mata Temple: Also known as the Salkanpur Temple, the Bijasan Mata Temple is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Durga, in the form of Maa Durga Beejasan. The temple features over 1000 stairs and is accessible via a well-established ropeway as well. The major events that are celebrated here are the two Navratris that grace every year, as the shrine is devoted to the nine forms of the Devi Durga. The temple is open from 6 am to 8 pm every day.

Moti Masjid: One of the many mosques in Bhopal, Moti Masjid is relatively smaller in size compared to the other mosques in the city. This famous historic landmark was built by Sikander Jehan Begum of Bhopal, daughter of Qudusiya Begum, in 1860. Sikander Begum was an unconventional woman who abolished slavery and set up the trend of the progressive woman in the city. Popularly known as the Pearl Mosque, the mosque is located in the heart of the city and represents the rich history of the Bhopal Begums in India. The architecture of the Moti Masjid in Bhopal has a striking resemblance to the architecture of the Jama Masjid in Delhi, except for its size. The Moti Masjid features a white marble facade with two small cupolas on the top. The two dark red towers on either side of the primary structure of the mosque are equally beautiful and fascinating. The mosque is best visited in the early morning hours when there are fewer people here, and one can pray in silence and peace. The mosque remains open visitors from 6 am to 7 pm daily and has no entry fee.

Jama Masjid: Constructed during the period of Quidisiya Begum, Jama Masjid is officially known as Taj-ul-Masajid, which translates to “Crown Among Mosques”. The magnificent architecture of Jama Masjid boasts of classic Islamic architecture with its beautiful shrine and two tall minarets. It is the largest mosque in the country and is counted among the largest in the continent as well. The mosque is spread over a large area and its façade made from red stones with two white domes is very distinctive. The mosque has two minarets flanking the main structure and the entire surface is embellished with careful carvings and ornamental windows, with the three marble domes standing out in contrast. Inside the complex, there is a colossal courtyard, adorned with marble flooring, and fine carvings on the pillars as well as a small pond and the royal market area. The mosque is open from 6:30 am to 7 pm, but please note that non-Muslims are not allowed inside the mosque.

Shaukat Mahal: Built in a distinctive blend of Indo-Islamic and European styles, the roof of the Shaukat Mahal is adorned with a series of complicated triangular-shaped arches and the exteriors have beautiful patterns. Gracing the entrance of the famous Chowk area, the building, erected in Sikander Begum’s reign, also exhibits a unique blend of Post Renaissance and Gothic styles, along with intricate carvings and is towered by the grand Sadar Manzil, which is believed to have served as the hall of public audience. A beautiful blend of Asian and Western architecture amidst the predominance of Islamic architecture in Bhopal, Shaukat Mahal should be visited. Located in the same complex as Shaukat Manzil, Sardar Manzil was designed by a descendant of the French Bourbons. This palace used to serve as the Hall of Public Audience during the times of the Nawabs. . A wooden door at the entrance opens to a large courtyard adorned by a fountain which was said to be accessible only by the then royal family. Amazing paintings adorn the ceilings although thick cobwebs cover them today. The large podium overlooking the garden was once the seat of the ruler and the rectangular open space houses a stage with rooms on either side. The headquarters of the Municipal Corporation is the present inhabitant of Sardar Manzil. The palace is open between 8 am to 6:30 pm and it has no entry fee.

Gohar Mahal: Constructed in 1820 by the first woman ruler of Bhopal, Qudsia Begum, Gohar Begum, Gohar Mahal was built with a perfect blend of Hindu and Mughal styles of architecture. Perched on the banks of the Upper Lake, Gohar Mahal is ornamented with intricate interior carvings and beautiful decorations on the exterior. The palace also serves as a fine example site of the Indo-Islamic architectural style. The great hall overlooks the idyllic lake, while the interiors of the hall host numerous ancient paintings and intricate woodwork and art. Having lost some of its original charm over the years, It is currently undergoing restoration. The palace is open for visitors from 8 am to 6:30 pm every day and has no entry fee.

Birla Museum: The remnants of Madhya Pradesh’s glorious pre-historic era is perfectly preserved in the Birla Museum. The museum contains objects used by the Paleolithic and Neolithic man, stone sculptures from 7th to 13th century BC and manuscripts and terracotta belonging to 2nd century BC. A must visit for all history and archeology enthusiasts, the museum is part of the magnificent Birla Mandir Complex which also harbors a sacred shrine of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati and a Laxmi-Narayan Temple. Housed in the Arera Hills, the grand museum towers over the tranquil Lower Lake, and affords you a panoramic view of the beautiful city of Bhopal. The museum is open to visitors from 10 am to 6 om every day except on Mondays and national holidays. The entry fee for visitors is INR 5 per person for Indians, and INR 50 per person for foreigners.

Tribal Museum: A rich tapestry of exhibits showcasing the tribal art and culture, the Tribal Museum highlights various aspects of tribes in Madhya Pradesh and Chattisgarh. The displays create awareness about the tribal rituals, customs, forms of worship etc. Former President Pranab Mukherjee inaugurated the museum of Tribal Heritage on June 6, 2013. The vast gallery showcases the way of life of seven significant tribes of Madhya Pradesh namely the Bheel, Gond, Korku, Baiga, Sahariya, Bhariya and Kol. . It is advised to collect a brochure at the entrance in order to learn a few basics of the tribal life, which makes it easier to decipher the paintings. The campus is carefully segregated into 6 galleries, each of which is dedicated to the tribal culture, life, art, and mythology. Spread across 7 acres of land, the Tribal Museum also holds an auditorium, a small boutique shop of artefacts and a restaurant. The museum occasionally organises activities based on the cultural forms such as talk show, poetry, vocal play, film and dance. With over 30% of the tribal population, this rich repository of traditional artwork and aesthetics is commissioned by the Government of Madhya Pradesh. The museum is open between 12 noon and 8 pm and the entrance fee is INR 10 per person for Indians while it will cost foreign visitors INR 100 per person and taking in a camera inside will incur you a fee of INR 50 per camera.

Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya: Also known as the National museum of Mankind, the Indira Gandhi Rashtriya Manav Sangrahalaya, is situated on the Shamla Hills, the upper lakefront of Bhopal. The museum presents the integrated story of the culture and evolution of mankind, with specific reference to India. The highlight of this museum is the fact that it’s the only one to have painted rock shelters with its post-colonial repertoire of tribal folk, art and culture. Besides, as a perk, the museum houses audiovisual archives, an extensive collection of ethnographic specimens and computerised documentaries. Spreading over an area of 200 acres, the museum functions with objectives such as highlighting the diversity and cultural patterns of Indian tribals. With its prehistoric essence, the anthropological space is created by the tribals to showcase the ancient lifestyle and mythological trail. The museum is open to visitors from 11 am to 6:30 pm from March to August and from 10 am to 5:30 pm during the months of September to February. The museum is closed on Mondays and national holidays. For visitors above the age of 12, the entrance fee is INR 50 per person while bringing in a camera will set you back by INR 100.

Yodhasthal: The army museum, called Yodhasthal, which is a prominent “Know your Army” facility, is known for its exhibition of arms and ammunition used by defence forces. Dedicated to the youth of the city, Yodhasthal offers enriching audio-visual experience about the defence with displays of artillery guns, tanks, arms used on the battlefield before and after independence. The war equipment narrates the splendid history of all the wars ever fought in the past. The museum provides knowledge and war stories of the Indian Army and its victories.

Shaurya Smarak: Essentially a war memorial, Shaurya Smarak was inaugurated in 2016 and developed as a public park, sprawling across an area of 12 acres in Arera Hills. The memorial houses an underground museum that has galleries dedicated to war heroes and a park featuring a number of sculptures and installation that pay tribute to the soldiers who laid down their lives in the service of the nation. The most notable feature of the park is a 62-feet tall sculpture depicting Indian Army. The park is open to visitors from 12 noon to 7 pm every day and has an entry fee of INR 10 per person. Bori Wildlife Sanctuary: Located in the heart of the country, The Bori Wildlife Sanctuary in Itarsi near Bhopal is truly among the country’s oldest and most diverse attractions, established in 1865. Surrounded by greenery on all sides, it is located along the Tewa River at a distance of approximately 167 km from Bhopal in Itarsi. It is a part of the Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserve and is covered in mixed deciduous and Bamboo forests. It is not uncommon to sight bigger mammals such as tigers, leopards, wild boars, deer or even the Indian Gaur while you are here. Make sure you check with the forest authorities on the correct timings for a Safari or a jungle walk before you set out to explore the sanctuary.

Travel Bucket List: India – Madhya Pradesh Part 1

Posted on October 26, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Literally meaning the central state, Madhya Pradesh or MP as it is known, is the second largest Indian state by area and the fifth largest state by population. The state is located in the geographic heart of India and straddles the Narmada River, which runs east and west between the Vindhya and Satpura ranges; these ranges and the Narmada are the traditional boundaries between the north and south of India. It borders the states of Uttar Pradesh to the northeast, Chhattisgarh to the southeast, Maharashtra to the south, Gujarat to the west, and Rajasthan to the northwest. Before 2000, when Chhattisgarh was a part of Madhya Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh was the largest state in India and the distance between the two furthest points inside the state, Singoli and Konta, was 1500 km.

The state’s economy is the tenth-largest state economy in India it ranks 32nd among Indian states in the human development index. Rich in mineral resources, MP has the largest reserves of diamond and copper in India. More than 30% of its area is under forest cover and its tourism industry has seen considerable growth in recent years. The official language of the state is Hindi. In addition Marathi is spoken by a substantial number of the population since the state was home to several important and prestigious Maratha states. The state in fact has the highest concentration of Marathi people outside Maharashtra.

Isolated remains of Homo erectus found in Hathnora in the Narmada Valley indicates that Madhya Pradesh might have been inhabited in the Middle Pleistocene era. Painted pottery dated to the later mesolithic period has been found in the Bhimbetka rock shelters with Chalcolithic sites belonging to the Kayatha culture which flourished between 2100–1800 BCE and the Malwa culture which flourished between 1700–1500 BCE having been discovered in the western part of the state.

The city of Ujjain arose as a major centre in the region, during the second wave of Indian urbanisation in the sixth century BCE. It has served as the capital of the Avanti kingdom Tejas. Other kingdoms mentioned in ancient epics—Malava, Karusha, Dasarna and Nishada—have also been identified with parts of Madhya Pradesh.

Chandragupta Maurya united northern India around 320 BCE, establishing the Mauryan Empire, which included all of modern-day Madhya Pradesh. Ashoka the greatest of Mauryan rulers brought the region under firmer control. After the decline of the Maurya empire, the region was contested among the Sakas, the Kushanas, the Satavahanas, and several local dynasties during the 1st to 3rd centuries CE. Heliodorus, the Greek Ambassador to the court of the Shunga king Bhagabhadra erected the Heliodorus pillar near Vidisha. Ujjain emerged as the predominant commercial centre of western India from the first century BCE, located on the trade routes between the Ganges plain and India’s Arabian Sea ports. The Satavahana dynasty of the northern Deccan and the Saka dynasty of the Western Satraps fought for the control of Madhya Pradesh during the 1st to 3rd centuries CE. The Satavahana king Gautamiputra Satakarni inflicted a crushing defeat upon the Saka rulers and conquered parts of Malwa and Gujarat in the 2nd century CE. Subsequently, the region came under the control of the Gupta empire in the 4th and 5th centuries, and their southern neighbours, the Vakataka’s. The rock-cut temples at Bagh Caves in the Kukshi tehsil of the Dhar district attest to the presence of the Gupta dynasty in the region, supported by the testimony of a Badwani inscription dated to the year of 487 CE. The attacks of the Hephthalites or White Huns brought about the collapse of the Gupta empire, which broke up into smaller states. The king Yasodharman of Malwa defeated the Huns in 528, ending their expansion. Later, Harsha who ruled between 590–647 ruled the northern parts of the state. Malwa was ruled by the south Indian Rashtrakuta Dynasty from the late 8th century to the 10th century. When the south Indian Emperor Govinda III of the Rashtrakuta dynasty annexed Malwa, he set up the family of one of his subordinates there, who took the name of Paramara.

The Medieval period saw the rise of the Rajput clans, including the Paramaras of Malwa and the Chandelas of Bundelkhand. The Chandellas built the majestic Hindu-Jain temples at Khajuraho, which represent the culmination of Hindu temple architecture in Central India. The Gurjara-Pratihara dynasty also held sway in northern and western Madhya Pradesh at this time. It also left some monuments of architectural value in Gwalior. Southern parts of Madhya Pradesh like Malwa were several times invaded by the south Indian Western Chalukya Empire which imposed its rule on the Paramara kingdom of Malwa. The Paramara king Bhoja was a renowned polymath. The small Gond kingdoms emerged in the Gondwana and Mahakoshal regions of the state. Northern Madhya Pradesh was conquered by the Turkic Delhi Sultanate in the 13th century. After the collapse of the Delhi Sultanate at the end of the 14th century, independent regional kingdoms re-emerged, including the Tomara kingdom of Gwalior and the Muslim Sultanate of Malwa, with its capital at Mandu. The Malwa Sultanate was conquered by the Sultanate of Gujarat in 1531. In the 1540s, most parts of the state fell to Sher Shah Suri, and subsequently to the Hindu king Hemu. Hemu, who had earlier served as the General of the Suri dynasty, operated from the Gwalior Fort during 1553–56 and became the ruler of Delhi as a King Vikramaditya winning 22 battles continuously from Bengal to Gujrat and defeating Akbar’s forces in the Battle of Delhi on 7 October 1556. However, he chose Delhi as his capital after his formal Coronation and left Gwalior. After Hemu’s defeat by Akbar at the Second Battle of Panipat in 1556, most of Madhya Pradesh came under the Mughal rule. Gondwana and Mahakoshal remained under the control of Gond kings, who acknowledged Mughal supremacy but enjoyed virtual autonomy.

The Mughal control weakened considerably after the death of Emperor Aurangzeb in 1707. Between 1720 and 1760, the Marathas took control of most of Madhya Pradesh, resulting in the establishment of semi-autonomous states under the nominal control of the Peshwa of Pune: the Holkars of Indore ruled much of Malwa, Pawars ruled Dewas and Dhar, the Bhonsles of Nagpur dominated Mahakoshal-Gondwana area, while the Scindias of Gwalior controlled the northern parts of the state. The most notable Maratha rulers of the region were Mahadji Shinde, Ahilyabai Holkar and Yashwantrao Holkar. Besides these, there were several other small states, including Bhopal, Orchha, and Rewa. The Bhopal state, which paid tribute to both the Marathas and the Nizam of Hyderabad, was founded by Dost Mohammed Khan, a former General in the Mughal army. After the Third Anglo-Maratha War, the British took control of the entire region. All the sovereign states in the region became princely states of British India, governed by the Central India Agency. The Mahakoshal region became a British province: the Saugor and Nerbudda Territories. In 1861, the British merged the Nagpur Province with the Saugor and Nerbudda Territories to form the Central Provinces.

During the 1857 uprising, rebellions happened in the northern parts of the state, led by leaders like Tatya Tope. However, these were crushed by the British and the princes loyal to them. The state witnessed a number of anti-British activities and protests during the Indian independence movement. Several notable leaders such as Chandra Shekhar Azad, B. R. Ambedkar, Shankar Dayal Sharma, Atal Bihari Vajpayee and Arjun Singh were born in what is now Madhya Pradesh. After the independence of India, Madhya Pradesh was created in 1950 from the former British Central Provinces and Berar and the princely states of Makrai and Chhattisgarh, with Nagpur as the capital of the state. The new states of Madhya Bharat, Vindhya Pradesh, and Bhopal were formed out of the Central India Agency. In 1956, the states of Madhya Bharat, Vindhya Pradesh, and Bhopal were merged into Madhya Pradesh, and the Marathi-speaking southern region Vidarbha, which included Nagpur, was ceded to Bombay state. Jabalpur was chosen to be the capital of the state but at the last moment, due to political interference, Bhopal was made the state capital. In November 2000, as part of the Madhya Pradesh Reorganization Act, the southeastern portion of the state split off to form the new state of Chhattisgarh.

The area covered by the present-day Madhya Pradesh includes the area of the ancient Avanti Mahajanapada, whose capital Ujjain, also known as Avantika arose as a major city during the second wave of Indian urbanisation in the sixth century BCE. Subsequently, the region was ruled by the major dynasties of India. Maratha empire dominated the majority of the 18th century. After the Anglo Maratha Wars 19th century, the region was divided into several princely states under the British and incorporated into Central Provinces and Berar and the Central India Agency. After India’s independence, Madhya Pradesh state was created with Nagpur as its capital: this state included the southern parts of the present-day Madhya Pradesh and northeastern portion of today’s Maharashtra. In 1956, this state was reorganised and its parts were combined with the states of Madhya Bharat, Vindhya Pradesh and Bhopal to form the new Madhya Pradesh state, the Marathi-speaking Vidarbha region was removed and merged with the then Bombay State. This state was the largest in India by area until 2000, when its southeastern Chhattisgarh region was made as a separate state.

So what can we hope to see in this series about Madhya Pradesh? There’s a lot to see in this state which has four UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the the Khajuraho mounuments, Devi Jagadambi temple, the Buddhist Monuments at Sanchi and the Rock Shelters of Bhimbetkaas. Other than this, the state also has many architecturally significant and scenic sites as well as a rich history of classic and folk music tradition. So let’s go…

Travel Bucket List: India – Andaman & Nicobar Islands Part 6

Posted on October 7, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

In this last part, let’s have a look at the beauty and bounty that nature has bestowed on the islands. Because the islands are far away from both the Indian mainland and the Thai/Myanmar peninsula, you can see flora and fauna which have adapted themselves to island living. Let’s go.

Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park: Located on the south-western coast of the Andaman Islands, the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park or Wandur National Park is a marine life conservation area situated at a distance of 25 km from Port Blair. The wildlife sanctuary consists of a group of 12 islands which are situated in a labyrinthine shape and are home to some of the most exquisite marine life in the world including corals and resting sea turtles among other species. The Marine National Park was established in the year 1983 to conserve the marine life of the area. Its surrounding areas are beauteous with pristine white-sand beaches, azure skies and clear water. Covering an area of over 220 sq km., the marine national park is a great place to try some snorkelling and diving in the crystal clear water of the islands giving one an opportunity to see nature’s glory from a close view. The coral reefs are the highlight of the park exhibiting their glorious forms and enchanting one and all. Boat trips to the Marine National Park start from 8:30 am and go on till 10:30 am in intervals of 30 minutes. The entry fee to the resrve is INR 50 and you will need to pay INR 25 for a camera.

Chidiya Tapu: A haven for bird lovers, Chidiya Tapu is popular for its wide range of birds, including indigenous and migratory birds. The forest here is also a treasure trove of thick forests and stunning views of the ocean. At almost every turn, the mesmerizing views of a thick green blanket and azure sea waters await you. Experience serenity as the dense mangroves cover the entirety of the island and provide a sense of calm to the senses. A walk through the jungles will make you forget everything about your hectic lifestyle. The island is also an attractive option for adventure sports lovers. It has a rich underwater sea life, including colourful corals and vibrant marine wildlife. Go snorkelling or scuba diving and experience the rich world under the surface, explore the labyrinthine reefs, get caught in the whirlpool of tiny fishes, and swim with majestic sea turtles. The island also has an option of sea walking, for those of you who do not know how to swim. Make sure to check out the trail that leads to the famous Mund Pahad, or the Black Mountain. The path is rife with mesmerizing views of the island, and the vantage point will take your breath away, as you witness the blue sea stretched out as far as the eye can see. Chidiya Tapu is also famous as The Sunset Point, so you can simply head over to the beach at the end of a long day and be enthralled by the tangerine sun setting over turquoise sea waters.

The Chidiya Tapu Biological Park, established in 2001, is rich in biodiversity and has a wide range of tropical flora and fauna of the Andaman islands. The park aims at the conservation and study of the endemic and endangered species of plants and animals that are indigenous to the islands. The place is covered with thick green jungles that provide the animals with natural habitat and act as a source of physical and mental relief towards its visitors. The park features exotic plant species like Mahuas and Padauks, to exquisite birds and animals. It is spread over 40 hectares and there is a lot to see here, including wild pigs and spotted deers roaming openly in the jungle. There is also a reptile centre for those of you who are interested in watching crocodiles and snakes. For bird watchers, it is a heavenly delight, as indigenous and migratory birds can often be spotted flying without any reserve in the park. Chidiya Tapu is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days except Mondays and people usually need around two to three hours to explore the place. Entry fees are INR 20 for Indians while foreigners pay INR 50. Guides are recommended because otherwise you may miss the many hidden gems here. They are available for rates as low as 1500 INR. The island is famous for its gorgeous sunsets, so it is best to go here at dusk. But if you want to explore the biological park, it is better to plan your trip during the afternoon, so that you can spend a few hours at the park before heading to the beach to watch the famed sunset.

Mount Harriet National Park: The Mount Harriet National Park is a gathering of several mountains adorned with wilderness and greenery that attracts a lot of flora and fauna to this little paradise. The park has been carved out of a nearby forest area to make it more accessible for tourists to enjoy the splendid beauty of nature. The highest peak in the Andaman group of Islands, Mount Harriet is enveloped with dense evergreen and semi-evergreen forest making for jaw-dropping landscapes. Mount Harriet takes pride in being featured on every Indian currency of 20 rupees. Off the nine national parks in the islands, the Mount Harriet National Park is undoubtedly the most beautiful one. Located in Ferrargunj Tehsil of Port Blair, Mount Harriet is the third highest peak of Andaman and Nicobar and the most easily accessible one as well. Due to its privileged elevated location, the park offers some astounding views of azure blues surrounding the island along with fascinating sunset and sunrise experiences. A bird’s eye view offers magnificent sights of the gorgeous Islands dotted all over the ocean in myriad shades of blue and green. Places like the North Bay, Ross Island, Jolly Island and Neil Island look absolutely stunning from the top. One may encounter birds, animals and butterflies of different species while scaling the mountain top as this area is known for its wide variety of animals. The mountain top also has a garden with swings and rides to keep the little visitors engaged. Entry fees per person per day for an Indian adult is INR 25 while children between 5-12 pay INR 10 and Indian students pay INR 5. Adult foreginers pay INR 250 while foreign students need to pay INR 10. If you plan to use a camera inside the national park, be prepared to pay INR 25 per day for a video camera and INR 10 for a still camera while film shooting will incur an INR 3000 charge per day. The park is best seen between November to May and is open daily between 7 am to 5 pm.

Saddle Peak National Park: Established in 1987, the Saddle Peak National Park is entirely uninhabited by humans, making it safe for preserving wildlife and the environment. The long trip to the park makes it worth it upon experiencing its beauty. The white sand shoreline and the tropical rainforests behind it make it a picturesque, serene image often found behind postcards. The park is famous for its endangered and rare species of animals and plants such as lush tropical forests and animals like the Andaman hill mynah. A haven for trekkers and adventure-seekers due to its vast size, hiking and trekking opportunities, and long trails, visitors to the park must navigate by themselves as the island is uninhabited and they won’t receive any help from locals. There is an 8 km long trail from the gate of the park to the peak which marks the starting of an adventure that is Saddle Peak National Peak. Tourists generally enjoy what the park has to offer since it contains so many rare species of plants and animals, as well as serene views; it makes the hike worth it. What truly makes the park a must-visit destination is its quietness and stillness that can only be achieved in a place without human interference.

Campbell Bay National Park: Designated in 1992, the Campbell Bay National Park is located on the island of Great Nicobar, the largest of the Nicobar Islands in the eastern Indian Ocean some 190 km to the north of Sumatra. It forms part of the Great Nicobar Biosphere Reserve and has an approximate area of some 426 sq km, and is separated from the smaller Galathea National Park by a 12-km wide forest buffer zone. The park is rich in aquatic life and houses a large variety of flora and fauna including a beautiful variety of the orchids, Nicobar pigeon, megopode, giant robber crab and crab eating macaque.

Galathea National Park: Located in Great Nicobar Island, the Galathea National Park is home to many wildlife species which are endemic to the region owing to it being away from the Indian mainland. The park is a part of the Great Nicobar Biosphere Reserve and was declared a national park in 1992. Apart from being a nature lover’s paradise, this park offers a wide range of activities like scuba diving, boating, snorkelling, sea walking and art exhibitions for adventure and art aficionados. It is also famous for bird watching and nature walks. The Great Nicobar Island was used by the Maratha Empire as a maritime base in the 17^th century. During World War II, the Indian National Army took control of the land over from the Japanese and the island became part of the Indian Union in the year 1950. The island was called Tinmaittivu, meaning ‘impure island’ in Tamil and was used as a strategic location against attacks on the Chola Empire by the Sriwijaya Empire.

Middle Button Island National Park: Created in 1979 and situated about 200 km northeast of Port Blair, the Middle Button Island National Park has a total area of about 64 sq km. Along with the neighbouring islands of North Button and South Button, which are also designated national parks, it forms part of the Rani Jhansi Marine National Park off the coast of South Andaman Island. The nearest island to the national park is Long Island, which is about 94 km south of Port Blair. The Park is renowned for its spotted deer. The park has unique marine wildlife. The park is also famous for adventure activities like snorkeling and scuba diving.

North Button Island National Park: Set up in 1979 and belonging to the Button Islands, the North Button National Park is about 16 km from Long Island, and 90 km from Port Blair. With a size of about 114 sq km, the park is home to many creatures such as the dugong, blue whales, sea turtles, water monitor, lizards and dolphins. The best months for visiting the park are from December to March. Flora and fauna

South Button Island National Park: Along with the neighbouring islands of North Button and Middle Button, the South Button National Park forms part of the Rani Jhansi Marine National Park. Spread over an area of about 5 sq km, the South Button National Park is the smallest national park in India. The island has an oceanic climate moderated by the surrounding sea. One of the main attractions around the tiny Island is shallow water coral reefs with high visibility. These tropical coral reefs are at depths as shallow as 6 ft, and the island is a popular site for snorkelling and scuba diving. The island is too small to support large terrestrial mammals but the sea is teeming with life. Among the animals that make their home here are dugongs, water lizards, sea turtles, dolphins and blue whales. The fish to be seen off-shore include snappers, sweetlips, lion fish, angel fish, butterflyfish, devil rays, manta rays and barracuda, as well as nudibranchs, octopuses and shrimps. Sea turtles breed here, as do the endemic subspecies of the edible-nest swiftlet and the distinctive white-bellied sea eagle

Rani Jhansi Marine National Park: Established in 1996, the Rani Jhansi Marine National Park is spread over an area of 256.14 sq km. The park is located in Ritchie’s Archipelago, about 30 km from Port Blair and offers a unique collection of flora and fauna. The natural habitats of the park include lagoons, coral reefs, beaches, lowland evergreen rain forest, semi-evergreen rain forest and mangrove forests. The prime attraction of this park is the fruit-eating bat. This fruit eating bat plays an important part in maintaining the ecological balance of the park as it both a pollinator and seed disperser to plants. The forests in Rani Jhansi Marine National Park are unique and mostly made up of mangroves along the shore line. The Islands have little or no farm land and majorities of the people living here depend on tourism to sustain themselves.

Mangrove Creeks: The Andaman & Nicobar Islands boasts a plethora of unique features. Along with natural ash coloured beaches, coral reefs, dense forest, the place also has many mangrove creeks. Mangrove trees are common in coastal areas, they grow out of tangled roots in muddy water. These beautiful trees can be enjoyed during the creek safari offered at various locations all over the islands. The best spots to start the safari are Limestone Caves, Yerrata Creek, Sabari Village, Dhaninalla Mangrove Creek, Rangat Middle Andaman. Mangrove shrubs, plants, and trees bloom all year round. The best time to visit the mangrove creeks is during the winter months of November to February when the weather is pleasant. The mangrove creeks in Andaman can be toured on foot, on jeeps and boats, depending on the area where you choose to engage in this activity.

Phew! With this, the series on the Andaman & Nicobar Islands finally comes to an end. When I first started writing this series, I initially thought it would be a two, maximum three post series, but the archipelago has far exceeded my expectations and I now know why this is such a favoured destination and on so many people’s travel bucket list. I am now even more eager to visit the islands and hopefully, this will be sooner rather than later.

Travel Bucket List: India – Andaman & Nicobar Islands Part 5

Posted on September 30, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Continuing with more island hopping…

Neil Island
Belonging to Ritchie’s Archipelago, Neil Island is separated by Ross Island and Havelock Island by the ocean. The island is located approximately 36 km northeast of Port Blair and exudes a calm laid back charm. Visitors staying in Havelock Island can make a day trip to Neil Island which has an amazing biodiversity, white sandy beaches, unspoiled and pretty coral reefs and tropical woodlands. The small island which is only 5 km in its widest part takes only 2 odd hours to cover by walk. The best parts of this island are its three sandy beaches, namely Bharatpur Beach, Sitapur Beach and the Lakshmanpur Beach. The forest cover has reduced considerably due to the cultivation of rice but a section in the north-west of the island is being preserved actively. Due to its limited area, Neill Island can be covered with a simple walk.

Bharatpur Beach: Popularly known as the Coral Kingdom of the Andaman, the Bharatpur Beach, which is located just half a km from the Neil Island jetty is a gorgeous shoreline, white sand beach, fringed with palm trees with turquoise crystal clear waters on Neil Island. The beach is a low tide beach, perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Bharatpur Beach is renowned for its exotic coral reef and vibrant aquatic life. Try to take a glass bottom boat ride to explore the underwater world at the beach. Do not miss out on the breathtaking sunrises and sunsets from this beach. In spite of its proximity to Port Blair, it is seldom crowded and provides for a tranquil atmosphere for holidaying. The shore has shallow water with coral reefs that make the beach a famous spot for water sports like snorkelling, glass bottom rides, and scuba diving other than beach exploration and sunbathing.

Laxmanpur Beach: Located on Neil Island, and at a distance of two km from the island’s jetty, Laxmanpur Beach is is a stunning white shell sand beach with the white sandy beach being perfect for hanging out and enjoying the natural beauty around you. Put up a hammock, grab a book and let the day just pass you by. The shallow waters near the shore, home to corals, is where you can go swimming, even if you are a non swimmer.

Howrah Bridge on Neil Island: The Howrah Bridge or the Natural Bridge is a bridge-like formation located in the famous ‘vegetable bowl’ or the coral laden side of Neil Island on the Laxmanpur Beach. The bridge is just a naturally stacked up huge coral rocks which together form a bridge-like structure. The island was severely affected in the Tsunami disaster of 2004 which washed off uncountable dead corals on the shore. As the island is largely inhabited by Bengali immigrants, the bridge was first coined as the Rabindra Sethu but later changed its name to Howrah Bridge. The bridge can be accessed only during low tides, hence, you will be taken to this coral island only pre-sunset hours. There are guides available who take a fixed amount to make you tour the entire shore where you are introduced to sea creatures such as sea Cucumber, starfish, crabs, etc. The bridge overlooks the grand Indian Ocean, plus the dead coral stretch where you stand in ankle deep water and can see the school of colorful fish and sea animals living on the dead corals which are partially submerged in shallow ocean water.

South Andaman Islands
Rutland Island: At the far tip of India, south of Port Blair, lies the picturesque Rutland Island, a heaven for Thalassophiles, commonly called sea lovers. The island makes up the South Andaman district and comprises six villages, namely the Rutland Village, R.M. Point Village, Bamboo Nallah, Kichad Nallah, Bada Jhari and Dani Nallah. Out of all these, the Dani Nallah is the most popular for the memorable marine life and turtle breeding experience it offers, that’s truly one you’ll never forget! Rutland Island is barely 110 sq. kms and is home to around 350 inhabitants belonging to the Jangil Tribe. But what the island may lack in size or population, it makes up for with its impeccable views of beaches and rich marine life that are worth a visit! You can go fishing at Chidiya Tapu and get a glimpse of the coral reefs at the Cinque Islands. An enthralling open-sea diving experience awaits at the beaches where you can also take a dip or enjoy some snorkelling. Travel to Jolly Buoy for a glass-bottom boat ride and walk along the Red Skin Island beaches, with the waves lapping at your feet. Visiting Rutland Island on a day trip from Port Blair or Havelock Island is one of the best options.

South Andaman Island: Known to be the southernmost island of the Andaman group of Islands, South Andaman Island is also the most populated and most commercially viable island in the cluster. It is the third largest island in the cluster and is situated between Middle Island and Baratang from which it is separated by a narrow strip of land. Boasting of small villages and coconut fields, you can also try your hand at adventure activities here that include scuba diving, snorkelling and parasailing.

Little Andaman Island: A beautiful island with crystal clear waters and clear sandy beaches, Little Andaman is the fourth largest island in the archipelago. It lies to the southern end of the archipelago over an area of 730 sq kms. The island is home to an extensive rainforest and rare species of marine turtle. If you explore enough, you could also come across some breathtaking waterfalls. Also known as Gaubolambe in the native language, Onge which is spoken by the Onge aboriginal tribe, the island is also called Ebu Belong. The local population is mostly comprised of a good number of Bengalis, Tamilians, and native aboriginal tribes known as the Onge tribe who have been inhabiting the jungles since 1957. So far the population of over 18,000 inhabitants occupies 18 villages on the island along with the main village, Kwat-tu-kwage on the Hut Bay. Apart from the ethnic diversity, Little Andaman is also unique in its biodiversity which is fairly spread between thickets, dense rainforests and long stretches of chromatic beaches and vivid coral reefs that are overly rich in marine life which includes a variety of rare species of marine turtles and a lot more. The Little Andaman Island is also home to the Little Andaman Lighthouse which is occasionally referred to as the Richardson’s Lighthouse.

Butler Bay Beach: A forgotten piece of heaven on Little Andaman, the Butler Bay Beach lies tucked about 100 kms from Port Blair city. A perfect place to get away from the hustle and bustle of city life, this beach is less frequented by tourists. This vast expanse of yellow sand and crystal clear waters was once the most popular beach destination in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. However, after the grave tsunami in 2004, the beach has become more desolate and isolated. If you are an adventurous spirit, you can try surfing to up your adrenaline levels. However, note that the waves get pretty high, so do not venture too far out in the sea unless you are an expert. Visitos can also try trekking in the lush green jungles nearby which has absolutely stunning views. The lighthouse near the beach is perfect for spending an afternoon overlooking the sea.

Cinque Island: Located 26 km from Port Blair, Cinque Island is an inhabited isolated part of the Andaman Archipelago. It is nestled between Passage and Duncan Island towards the north side. The island is further divided into North and South Cinque Islands. The islands are collectively a part of Wandoor Marine National Park, or more commonly known as Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park. A white sandy beach surrounded by lush green tropical rain forest, a visit to Cinque Island is a calming experience. With a rich and exotic marine life including coral reefs, vibrant and colourful fishes, sea anemones, turtles, saltwater crocodiles, starfishes, seaweed, water snakes, the rare sea cow among more, the island also offers professional scuba divers to test their diving skills and amateurs to learn diving from PADI instructed divers. The island is also great for other activities like sea walking and snorkelling. The view under the pristine water is stunning. The best time to Scuba dive is between December to February as the visibility is fantastic.

Barren Island: Located about 135 kilometres to the northeast of Port Blair, Barren Island is situated at the intersection of the seismically active Indian and Burmese plates, is 1.8 million years old and is home to the only active volcano in the Indian subcontinent. As the name suggests, the island is largely uninhabited, thanks to the volcano eruptions that take place here at frequent intervals. Although sightseeing around the island is not that common, you can obtain permissions from the local forest department to do so. There are a number of ferries and boats that can take you around to visit the island. However, due to the unpredictability of the volcanic eruptions, visitors are not permitted to land on the shores and are offered with a view from the sea, which is quite breathtaking. The crater of the Barren Island volcano is about half a kilometre away from the shore. The black bedrock of the island lends the sand on the beach a deep purple-black hue that contrasts beautifully with the vibrant blue of the ocean and underwater vibrant marine life. What is interesting is that even though the existence of this volcano is not a hidden fact, and has been known since centuries; owing to little-publicised research with restricted and limited access, the island continues to remain an unexplored mystery.

Narcondam Island: Located on the western side of the archipelgo, Narcondam Island is a tiny volcanic island which is still inhabited and sprawls over a small 6.8 sq kms, with the island’s highest point being 710 m and it is formed of an igneous rock known as andesite. It is mostly known for its dormant volcano that exists on the land. Due to the existence of the volcano on the island, it was left deserted and desolate for the longest period of time, but lately it has begun to see commercial tourism due to to its untouched and unexploited dense forests, crystal clear waters, uncommercialized beaches and the overall picturesque beauty. The island is also inhabited by several birds and boasts of a rich wildlife.

Katchal Island: One of the many beautiful yet secluded islands of the Nicobar archipelago, Katchal Island is a stunning beauty of the pristine Nicobar Islands that is still not as popular as the other islands. Among the many such isolated islands of the archipelago, one of the remotest ones is Katchal Island. Brimming with a historical origin story, a tale of a tragic past and an almost-unexplored stretch of natural beauty, the virgin island of Katchal has only recently been declared open. Before that, permission had to be taken from Port Blair administration to enter Katchal. The hills of Katchal are made of calcareous sandstone and marble slates and are covered with lush tropical forests. The forests hide a plethora of endemic flora and fauna, including a spectacular opportunity of birdwatching. Sunrises and sunsets are breathtaking out here at Katchal. Katchal Island is 300 km away from Port Blair and the only mode of transport to get there from Port Blair is via helicopter as of yet. Katchal Island, previously known as Tihanyu, was an Aboriginal Tribal Reserve Area and foreign individuals needed special permission to visit the island and even Indian tourists, it is only a day-tour destination. No one is allowed to stay there except government employees who were posted there. Katchal is home to both indigenous and non-indigenous people. As per history, Katchal was part of the overseas kingdom of the Cholas of Tanjore, Tamil till the Danish explorers started coming over, and then finally the British Empire took over the island in 1869. Later with India’s independence, Katchal Island became a part of Andaman and Nicobar and was included in the country’s administration. Native Nicobari tribes reside here in Katchal, and so do migrated Tamil people. The tribal people from West Bay Katchal believe that the current population of the island came from the worms who survived the great flood of ancient times. Katchal was one of the islands in the Indian Ocean which were devastated by the 2004 Tsunami.

Campell Bay and Indira Point: Campbell Bay is a small and tranquil village located in the Great Nicobar Island which is also where the southernmost point of the Nicobar Islands and also of the Indian subcontinent, Indira Point is located. The point is mostly known for its magnificent light houses that are painted with red and white stripes which are the major attraction of Indira Point. Other than tourism, these lighthouses help in direction navigation for the ships and vessels coming to and fro from Malaysia and Malacca. Besides enjoying a gorgeous expanse of Arabian Sea in the vicinity, you can also admire the beautiful sunrise and sunset views. In addition to that, the place reverberates with peace and tranquility and you can find enough time and space here to spend quality time alone or in company. Moreover, this island is also popular for holding the vast tropical land of dense forest which was named as Campbell Bay National Park in 1992 and is proudly a part of the great Nicobar biosphere reserve. Spreading across 426 square kilometers, Campbell Bay National Park has made its name in the list of best National Parks of India for most tourists.

So this was some of the islands in the archipelgo that is the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. I have probably just scratched the surface, there is so much more to see here. In the next blog post, the last in the series, we will see some of nature’s beauty that is there in the islands. Keep reading…

Travel Bucket List: India – Andaman & Nicobar Islands Part 4

Posted on September 28, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Continuing on our island hopping from the last post…

Aves Island Beach: A a public island beach for individuals wishing to spend some time away from crowds and in their own solitary company, the The Aves Island Beach is an uninhabited beach, which automatically makes it isolated. Easily accessible with crystal clear, calm waters that add to the serene ambience of the beach, the beach is also known as coconut island due to the organic coconut plantations on the island.

North Andaman Island
Diglipur: A large island located in the North Andaman area, Diglipur is an ecological paradise. The island houses rows of tropical forests, mangroves, and lovely beaches rich in exotic marine life. Kalipur Beach, Ross & Smith Islands, Ramnagar Beach, and Pathi Level Beach are all located in Diglipur, which makes it a favourite destination among tourists. The highest point of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, Saddle peak, is located at this island, accessible through the Saddle Peak National Park. One can also find the Kalpon river here, the only river to flow through the Andamans. The Ross and Smith islands, a mysterious mud volcano, and the Saddle Peak National Park are all located within the confines of Diglipur. The Alfred Caves, an elaborate labyrinth of 42 caves spread across Diglipur can satisfy the desires of the adventurous who are willing to undertake the challenging task of exploring and trekking through these caves. This largest town in the Andaman islands, does not heat up beyond 31-degree Celsius and also does not freeze below 23-degrees Celsius. For the tourists looking for a relaxing vacation, the shores of Diglipurs offer many wondrous beaches where one can get lost in the beauty of the sea all day long. Visitors to Diglipur can get there from Port Blair by car which is a 12-hour journey approximately. The waterway is another exciting option to cover this 325km distance. There are boat services available twice a week as a night long cruise. If money is not an issue, you can fly there in one of the helicopter services, or choose other special planes that fly you to Diglipur. If neither of these work, you may hop on to one of the buses available in the nights. The Sea Planes are a one-of-a-kind experience.

Lamiya Bay Beach: Located in Diglipur on the foothills of Saddle Peak, the dazzling Lamiya Bay Beach has polished pebbles laid down on the shoreline which further accentuates the beauty of the beach. A favourite amongst the honeymooners, this beach has become a highly instagrammed beach what with the shrubs and trees that contrast the sand and sea. The beach is surrounded by beautiful rock structures that add to the beauty. You can witness a magnificent sunset with the sky turning crimson and reflecting the last rays on the polished pebbles.

Kalipur Beach: Located in Diglipur, the Kalipur Beach is a beautiful beach with an endless number of turtles. These include several rare ones that come here to nest, including the Olive Ridley, the Green turtles, the Hawksbill and the Leather Black who come to the beach to lay their eggs during the winter months. The best time to visit the beach is from October to March as this is also the turtle nesting season. Kalipur Beach can be easily reached from Diglipur and the beach is at a distance of 18 km from the town.

Stewart Island Beach: This quaint little Island situated on the north of Port Blair has an isolated beach amidst the middle of an uninhabited Island. This Island has a long narrow strip of immaculate white sandy beach located in the middle of the sea. The Island has a stunning shoreline with clear water ideal for snorkelling and gentle waves lashing against the sun-kissed sandy shore. Situated between Dotrel Island and Curlew Island, it is considered to be one of the most photographed Island beaches in Andaman by tourists in this part of the country with the sky changing colours very often. A long strip of coconut groves swaying gently to the tune of the breeze is not only soothing for the eyes but also gives relief during mid-afternoon when the sun is at its peak.

Ross and Smith Island: Located just 2 kilometres east of Port Blair, Ross Island is an island which was once the administrative headquarters of the British, but today is an uninhabited island that is known solely for its beauty and scenic views. Following an earthquake that hit the island in 1941, the British left the island and shifted their settlement to Port Blair and the island became abandoned. If you go to the island, you can still see traces of a prosperous past in the rubbles of the church, swimming pool and the chief commissioner’s home with its extensive gardens and magnificent ballrooms. There is also a cemetery and a small museum managed by the Indian Navy. Connected to the island by a sand bar is the Smith Island and the two islands are together known as the twin islands. From Smith Island, you can trek in the nature trails in the island which extend till Ross Island through the green tropical forests and breathe in the calm air of nature. A Marine Sanctuary on the island is the biggest highlight and it is considered to be the ideal place for watching the rare collection of invigorating coral reefs and colourful fish species. Both the islands are home to Olive Ridley turtles and the turtle nesting season is a sight to be seen. Sometimes, visitors can also see wild elephants which live in the dense forests come to play!

Jolly Buoy Island: Nestled away in a small corner of Andaman and Nicobar is the Jolly Buoy Island, an uninhabited and ecologically preserved island known for its clear waters and beautiful coral reefs that make it one of the most sought-after sports in the Andaman for scuba diving and snorkelling, and truly being able to experience the beauty of nature that has been unaffected by man-made dirt and pollution. It is a part of Mahatma Gandhi National Park and it takes some time to get to the island as you need to take a boat ride of some 30 minutes from Wandoor Beach. Visitors will be able to explore the rich marine life including colourful corals reefs and fishes when you do water activities. The Jolly Buoy Island is only a day’s visit as the jetty that transport people here starts from 9 am and returns at 2 pm as people are not allowed to stay here post-sundown. There is a very strict no plastic policy on the island and people who visit the island are all required to make a list of all the plastic items in their possessions as they enter the island, and make sure that they show the same plastic covers to the authorities at the time of departure. There are also heavy fines charged for loitering on the island, so make sure to be extremely careful with your belongings and make sure not to litter on the island. The island is also famous for its rich underwater life. A lot of colourful corals and fishes habitat in the sea which can be seen easily. Acropora, Pacillopora, Montipora, Fungia, Leptoseris, Forties, gorgonians and tubipora are the important corals that can be seen in Jolly buoy Island. Beautiful starfishes, ocellaris clownfish , False Percula Clownfish, butterfly fishes, parrot fishes and Angel fishes are the ones that can be easily spotted and are a treat for the eyes because of their vibrant colours and fluid motions. There is a beautiful jungle filled with trees for tourists to explore and seek some shade from the sunny beach.

Havelock Island
Named after a British General and comprising of Ritchie’s Archipelago and a collection of five villages, Havelock Island is one of the largest and most popular islands in the Andaman and Nicobar archipelago and is a paradise of silky white sand beaches, crystal blue water, rich corals and verdant forests. Officially named Swaraj island, the island is spread over a massive area of 113.93 square kilometres and is situated 57 km north-east of the capital city Port Blair. The long stretches which have been declared among the best beaches in the world are here, all closely connected to the island’s main boat jetty. The lighthouse established in 2005 at the northern part of the island gives a wonderful place to catch the sunrises and sunsets. You also have a a wide options of accommodation in the island.

Radhanagar Beach: Crowned Asia’s best beach in 2004 by the Times Magazine, the Radhanagar Beach on the western coast of Havelock Island with its turquoise blue waters and powdery white sands lives up to the moniker even today. Its vast shores of endless white grains stretch across 2 kilometres, making it a prime attraction of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. This crescent shaped 2 kilometers long beach is known for its soft silver sand with high carrying capacity. Located at a distance of a mere 7 kilometres from the much-adored Vijaynagar Beach and approximately 10 kms from the Havelock Jetty, this beach is the prime attraction of Havelock Island. Swimming is a popular activity here. Neil’s cove on one side of the beach offers a fantastic snorkelling experience in its freshwater streams. Apart from enjoying the spectacle of the beach and the melange of colours, visitors can also enjoy water sports like boating, parasailing, and scuba divingYou can also book beach beds, parasols, and umbrellas while they spend hours merely lounging at this exquisite wonderland. It also very common for tourists to spot some elephants on the beach, so make sure you keep your eyes open and cameras ready! The beach tends to get crowded with visitors around late mornings and afternoons usually between 10 am to 4 pm. The best time of the day at the beach has to be the early mornings as you get time to enjoy the beach in its rawest, most secluded form. Sunsets at this beach are stupendous as well, but the forests guards might not let you stay past 6 pm, as it starts growing darker by the minute. Swimming in the waters is also not allowed post 5 pm due to high tides that might prove to be dangerous.

Elephant Beach: Located close to the Radhanagar Beach, the Elephant Beach can be reached after a twenty minute ferry ride. One of the more popular beaches in the islands, the beach attracts many visitors every year. The beach is famous for the bright coral reefs that one can find at a depth as shallow as one meter. Note that the beach doesn’t stay open for the whole day so you must plan your visit during the first half of the day, with the beach opening from early in the morning, and ferries arriving from around 7 am nd then last ferry leaving the beach at 3:30 pm with the entire beach shutting down around 4 pm. Some of the most popular attractions around the beach include swimming, fishing, kayaking and an array of other super exciting water sports that are famous in Andaman.

Vijaynagar Beach: Also known as Beach #5, Vijayanagar Beach on Havelock Island is said to be paradise on this planet. Not as frequented by the other beaches on the island, the beach boasts of a palm-fringed coastline which creates a stunning contrast to the green and blue of the sea. Unlike the other rocky beaches, the Vijaynagar Beach is a rolling beach which makes it a perfect relaxing haven to experience stunning sunrises and sunsets across the vanishing point of the Bay of Bengal. Some of the common activities you can indulge yourself in are beach hiking, snorkelling, swimming, bird watching, wildlife photography, fishing and trekking.

Kalapathar Beach: A long stretch of white silky sand with black rocks beside the blue sea, Kalapathar Beach which literally means Black Stone Beach is located on the tip of Havelock Island. The beach is named after a black road which runs parallel to the seashore. A small beach with mesmerising views of the sunset makes it a perfect destination to spend some alone time as this beach is usually not very crowded. The black rocks the lie along the seashores make a bright contrast with silver sand and green dense forests surround the beach from all the sides. Being a relatively isolated and protected beach, Kalapathar does not have the usual shacks and resorts that other beaches do and hence can be visited as a stopover attraction.

There are more islands waiting for you, so keep watching this space…

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

Tag Archives: Bucket Lists