Travel Bucket List: India – Chattisgarh Part 2

Posted on October 7, 2022 by memoriesandsuch

Bhilai and Durg
Known as twin cities, Bhilai and Durg are approximately about 32 km and 50 km west of Raipur. With a population exceeding 1 million, Bhilai is the second-largest urban area in Chhattisgarh after Raipur as well as a major industrial city and an education hub of central India. Durg lies east of the Shivnath River and is part of the Durg-Bhilai urban agglomeration and is the headquarters of the Durg District. Bhilai is home to several industries as well as the Indian Institute of Technology Bhilai. The Jama Masjid in Bhilai is one of the largest mosques in India and the state’s oldest zoo, Maitri Bagh lies in Bhilai.

It is believed that Bhilai is derived from the Bhil tribe which originally inhabited this region and continues to dwell in the nearby forests even today. The Bhilai word means the Bhils arrived. Bhilai was a small village and a part of the Haihaiyavansi Kingdom until 1740 when it was conquered by the Marathas. The foundation of the modern city of Bhilai was laid in 1955 when the Indian government signed a historic agreement with the Soviet Union in Magnitogorsk to establish a steel plant near the village. The first blast furnace of the plant was commissioned in 1959 by the first President of India, Dr Rajendra Prasad. The number of steel rails produced by the facility till 2007 can go around the circumference of the earth 7.5 times and this is depicted on the monument at Globe Square in the heart of the city. The facility underwent modernization and expansion and is amongst the leading manufacturers of iron and steel in Asia.

An ancient fort and a temple, Dhamdha is located nearly 35 km from Bhilai on the way to Bemetara. There are several restaurants and hotels for overnight stays, should one want to do that. Lying 60 km from Bhilai, Tandula is known for a man-made dam built over the Tandula River. Serving as a perfect picnic spot, this place is flocked by tourists, especially during winters. The Irrigation department has guest houses for visitors to stay overnight. About 100 km from Bhilai, amid a dense forest, tunnels and hills, Hajra Falls offers a spectacular view falling from a height of 150 m. Famous as a picnic spot among locals as well as tourists, one can also find accommodation in form of a Forest Bungalow.

Maitri Bagh, which translates to a Garden of Friendship, is a zoo cum park that caters to both adults and children. It is the biggest zoo in the region and offers a wide array of options for entertainment. Maitri Bagh was established as a symbol of friendship between the USSR and India, in 1972 and was developed by the Bhilai Steel Plant and the Steel Authority of India Ltd. The entrance to the zoo has a pair of giraffes that welcome visitors. The zoo is spread over an area of about 167 acres and is home to about 39 species of animals, birds and reptiles, including some endangered species with the white tiger the main attraction of the zoo. There is a musical fountain situated on the island in the artificial lake of Maitri Bagh and is lit in colour during the show that takes place each night. There is a toy train called Maitrey Express that covers the entire zoo and is a hit among children. There is also a flower show held annually. The entry fee to the Maitri Bagh Zoo is INR 20 for Indian nationals and INR 10 for Indian children while adult foreigners need to pay INR 20 and their children can enter free. Maitri Bagh remains closed on all Mondays while on other days, the zoo is open between 10 am to 5 pm while the park is open between 10 am to 7:30 pm and the musical fountain takes place from 7 pm onwards only on Saturdays and Sundays. The operating hours of the toy train ride are from 3 pm to 6 pm on the days Maitri Bagh is open. Guides are available on request.

Lying amid a picturesque location, Siyadevi is known for its Sita Maiya Temple. And for those visiting between July and February, one can enjoy the beautiful views of the natural waterfall. Named after the devout wife of Lord Ram, Goddess Sita, Siyadevi is believed to be one of the places where Lord Ram, Lord Laxman and Goddess Sita lived during their vanvaas or exile. Housing an ancient Shiva Temple, Deobalod is situated about 3 km from Bhilai. Located about 60 km from Bhilai, the Ganga Maiya Temple at Jhalmala has a very interesting legend attached to it. According to the legend, a local fisherman found the deity of the temple in his net but ignored it instead of recovering it. Later, a villager from the same village had a dream in which the idol ordered the person to retrieve and keep it in a hut near the village. Sometime later, a temple was established there by Bhikam Chanda Tiwari.

Situated on the bank of river Sheonath, amidst entrancing natural scenery, the Uwasaggharam Parshwa Teerth is the shrine of the 23rd Teerthankar Lord Shri Parshwanath and commemorates his visit to this region about 3000 years ago as a Shraman or a wandering mendicant dedicated to self-realization through self-sacrifice. Founded in 1995, the temple is also home to a garden, temples, a Yoga centre and a guest house all built on the banks of the River Sheonath. The entrance to the resplendent marble temple of Shri Parshwanath is through a 30 feet gate that has the idol of Parshwanath, supported by four pillars representing the four essentials of spiritual atonement, wisdom, introspection, good conduct and penance, being worshipped by two elephants. Sacred water or amiya, oozes from the idol here and hundreds of pilgrims visit this shrine on the day of the full moon.

Rajnandgaon
Located about 72 km west of Raipur, the district of Rajnandgaon came into existence on 26 January 1973, as a result of the division of the Durg district. Originally known as Nandgram, Rajnandgaon State was ruled by the Somvanshis, the Kalachuris of Tripuri and the Marathas. The palaces in the town showcase tales of the rulers, their society and culture, and their traditions.

The city was ruled by a dynasty of Hindu caretakers or Bairagis, who bore the title Vaishnav and Gond rajas or chiefs. Succession was by adoption and the foundation of the dynasty is traced to a religious celibate who came from Punjab towards the end of the 18th century. From the founder, it passed through a succession of chosen disciples until 1879 when the British government recognised the ruler as a hereditary chief and it came to be known as the princely state of Raj Nandgaon and the heir was conferred the title of Raja Bahadur. The first ruler Mahant Ghasi Das was recognised as a feudal chief by the British government in 1865 and was granted a letter of adoption. Later the British conferred the title of Raja on the ruling mahant.

In ancient times Rajnandgaon, like the rest of the Chhattisgarh plain, was part of Dakshina Kosala and part of the Mauryan empire during Emperor Ashoka’s time. Coins of the Indo-Sassanians have been found near Rajnandgaon dating from the 3rd century, implying the region had indirect contact with the rest of the world. In the 4th century, Dakshina Kosala was one of the regions which were subdued by Samudra Gupta on his southern expedition. However it was unlikely the Guptas ever directly controlled this territory south of the Mahanadi, rather the local rulers acknowledged Gupta overlordship. Gupta coins have been found in Dakshina Kosala. Parts of the region were controlled by the Nalas of Bastar at times, while other areas were controlled by the Vakatakas for periods in the 5th century. In the 6th century, the area was under the control of the Somavamshis while it fell back into Nala hands in the 7th century. In the 10th century, the Somavamshis returned to power, but were soon overthrown by the Kalachuris, who claimed Haihaiya origin. In the 12th and 13th centuries, the southern part of the district fell into the control of chieftains from Kanker. The Kalachuris or Haihaiyavansis continued ruling the district until the 18th century. Khairagarh and the northern part of the district were ruled by the Raj Gonds of Garha-Mandla. After the struggle of Rani Durgavati, these rulers, as well as the Kalachuris of Raipur who ruled the southern part of the district, became vassals of the Mughals. In 1742, the Marathas under the Bhonsles of Nagpur invaded Chhattisgarh and quickly overthrew the last king of the Haihaiyavansis and took over what is now Rajnandagaon district. In 1753, the Bhonsles of Nagpur confiscated all the territory that is now Chhattisgarh, and Raghoji gave the area to his son, Bimbaji, who ruled it virtually independently. The territory continued to be controlled by the Marathas until the Third Anglo-Maratha War when it fell into British hands who then returned the territory to Maratha hands. Until 1836 it was administered by a series of subadars obedient to the Nagpur state. In 1853, Nagpur was annexed by the British under the Doctrine of Lapse and Rajnandgaon fell under direct British administration under the Central Provinces and Berar. Rajnandgaon remained a Princely State in independent India and in 1948, was merged into the Durg District of Madhya Bharat, later Madhya Pradesh. Rajnandgaon district was carved out from the erstwhile Durg district on 26 January 1973. Later, Kabirdham district was carved out from this district on 1 July 1998. Rajnandgaon is a part of the Red Corridor.

Situated on a hilltop at a height of about 490 m about 26 km from Rajnandgaon, is a significant religious site. Also referred to as Badi Bambleshwari, the temple is located in Dongargarh and is half a km from the main temple complex at the foot of the hill known as Chotti Bambleshwari. Thousands of devotees from in and around Chhattisgarh flock to the shrine during the ten days of Navratri in September and October as well as during Ramnavmi in April. During this time, fairs which are run 24 hours are organised in the temple premises. It is said that about 2,220 years ago, a local king, Raja Veersen performed several Pujas and worshipped the gods to be blessed by an offspring. When after a year, the queen gave birth to a son, the king who believed it to be a blessing from Lord Shiva and Parvati, constructed the temple here.

Another site of interest is the ancient place of Mata Sheetala Devi Shakti Peetha. This temple, which is more than 2200 years old, lies 1.5 km from the railway station. Pragyagiri, a famous Buddhist Vihara is another attraction as is Barfani Dham where pilgrims throng. Other places of interest are Ambagarh Chowki, Ambagarh Devi Mandir, Mongara Dem and Sankar Dahara Tipagarh Pahadi.

Chirmiri
Chirmiri is a hill station about 298 km north of Raipur and not far from its border with Madhya Pradesh. It was a part of the Koriya district until 15 August 2021 when the separate Manendragarh-Chirmiri-Bharatpur district was created. Chirmiri is known for its coal extraction as the area is rich in coal. Chirimiri is referred to as the Heaven of Chhattisgarh due to its lush greenery, mountains, and rivers that make it a perfect getaway destination. There are several temples and other places famous among tourists. Located at an altitude of 579 m above sea level, Chirimiri lies along the banks of the Hasdeo River, one of the most prominent tributaries of the Mahanadi River. Chirmiri’s weather is pleasant all year round, and there are dense forests in the region housing exotic flora and fauna. The best time to visit Chirmiri is March just in time to celebrate Shivratri with the locals. It is one of the most popular festivals in the region. Otherwise, the monsoon season between October to April is when the city is clean and green with the dirt and grime washed away.

One of the chief tourist attractions of the region is the Lord Jagannath Temple which is a replica of the Jagannath temple in Puri, Odisha. The Kalibadi Temple is located in Haldibadi on a hill and is very close to the main train station. Baigapara is a temple located in Bartunga where there is also an ancient Sati temple dedicated to the Goddess Sati. The Gufa Mandir is located in Godaripara while the Maha Maya Temple in Ratanpur is one of the 52 Shakthi Peeths, and is dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi and Goddess Saraswati. The temple was built by the Kalachuri King Ratnadeva in the 12th or 13th century. The architecture is of the Nagara art, facing north with a big water tank. There are also temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Hanuman respectively on the premises. The oldest temple here, built in 1039 is a temple dedicated to Kantideval and is said to be constructed by an ascetic known as Santhosh Giri. The temple is guarded by Kalabhairava residing in another temple on the approach road. There are also ruins of an 11th-century Kadaeideol Shiva temple on a hilltop near a fort.

17 km from Chirmiri lie Amrit Dhara Falls which are located in Barbaspur. There is a famous temple dedicated to Lord Shiva near the waterfalls. The falls are also a favourite picnic spot for locals. Apart from being a famous waterfall, the place is used for picnics by the locals. The local authority has developed the banks of the Hasdeo River and now this is a preferred picnic spot.

Madku Dweep
A beautiful island, Madku Dweep lies on the River Shivnath about 87 km north of Raipur and about 40 km south of Bilaspur. The name Madku came about because the island has the shape of a frog. The picturesque Madku Dweep has an area of around 24 hectares and is full of greenery and is famous for its ancient temples and their historical and archaeological importance.

Archaeologists have discovered prehistoric stone tools, epigraphs, and coins on this island. Stone inscriptions have also been found, which are believed to date back to the 3rd century. One stone inscription was in Brahmi script and another in the Shankha script. Madku Dweep is also home to several ancient and unique idols of Lord Shiva, Ganesha, Shiv-Parvati, Nandi, and various other Gods have been found. There are temples, both old and new, that are frequented equally by devotees from across the globe. Madku Dweep is popularly known as Kedar Tirth and Harihar Kshetra Kedar Dweep. Archaeologists have successfully excavated 19 temples on the island of which 18 face east, whereas the middle temple is the only one that faces west. The architectural style of these temples along with the sculptures and idols is believed to be similar to that of the Great Kalchuris. The festivals of Mahashivratri and Hanuman Jayanti are celebrated enthusiatically and there is a seven day fair held with utmost devotion on this island. There is also a 7-day mela or fair that is held in January during Paosh Purnima.

Mudku Island is divided into two parts of the river Shivnath river. Two very ancient Shiva temples from the 10th and the 11th centuries are situated on the smaller island. One of them is situated at Dhanmanteshwar and to its right side is an ancient valley located in the north, which drains the water. Two ancient inscriptions have been found at this place. The first inscription is the Brahma inscription of about 3rd century while the Akshaya found and the second inscription has letters of the Shankhalipi script. A statue of a man without a head appears to be from the 10th or the 11th centuries. Archaeological excavations have found ancient idols of Gupta and Calcutta carvings. The statue of the Culturary Chattrabhuji dance is found in the statue of Ganesh under the tree of Bakul which dates to the 11th century.

Bhoramdeo Temple
Bearing a striking resemblance to the Konark Sun Temple, the Bhoramdeo Temple is located about 135 km north of Raipur and is believed to have been constructed between the 7th to the 12th centuries and is popularly known as the Khajuraho of Chhattisgarh as it also resembles the Khajuraho Temple in Madhya Pradesh. The Bhoramdeo Temple is a complex of temples dedicated to Lord Shiva in Bhoramdeo and comprises a group of four temples of which the earliest is a brick temple. The Bhoramdeao temple complex is built at the foot of the thickly forested scenic backdrop of the Maikal range of hills, in the Daksina Kosala region.

The temple complex, rich in history and archaeological details, is dated to the Kalachuri period between the 10th and 12th centuries, which ruled over areas in Central India in west Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and were called Chedi, Haihaya or Heyheya or the northern branch with a close identity with the sculptures found in nearby archaeological sites such as Janjgir, Kalachuri, Narayanpur and Ratanpur sites. The brick temples were built during the rule of Pandus and are similar to those built in Kharod, Palari, Rajim and Sirpur in the state.

The temple was built by Laxman Dev Rai & Gopal Dev of the Faninagvansh Dynasty. The temple complex, highlighted as scintillating poetry in stone, is credited to the Nagwanshi Kings who practised tantrism and who ruled in the then Southern Koshal region, which is now the state of Chhattisgarh. Its construction is dated between the 7th and 12th centuries and the temple is named Bhoramdeo because the Gond Tribals of the area worshipped Lord Shiva whom they called Bhoramdeo.

The main temple is the Bhoramdeo temple built in stone and is older than the Khajurao complex and has an abundance of carved images on its walls, especially the exterior ones. The structural uniqueness of the temple stems from having receding rows placed consecutively upwards in the upper part of the temple tower. It has the standard Hindu temple composition of a mandapa, followed by a passage leading to the sanctum sanctorum or Garbhagriha. The sanctum sanctorum is the primary enclosure of the temple where the presiding deity Shiva, in the form of a Shiva linga, is worshipped. Four main central pillars support the mandapa, along with several peripheral pillars. All the enclosures are linked through passageways. The temple is built facing the East, with an entry door that faces the same direction. In addition to this, two more doors open in the South and North directions. However, there is no door facing the Western direction. The main entrance door of the temple flaunts sculpted images of Ganga and Yamuna. The entrance to the sanctum sanctorum or Garbhagriha has finely sculpted images of all the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu. Intricately sculpted images of Lord Shiva and Lord Ganesha can also be found.

Another temple about 1 km from Bhoramdeo, which is mentioned along with the Bhoramdeo complex is the Madwa Mahal, which means marriage hall in the local dialect, also known as Dullhadeo. It was built in 1349 during the reign of Ramchandra Deo of the Nagavanshi dynasty and has a unique Shiva Linga erected over 16 pillars. It was built to commemorate the wedding of the Nagwanshi king, Ramachandra Dev, and the Haihawanshi Queen, Raj Kumari Ambika Devi. Interestingly, this temple is west-facing. Since this temple’s structure is similar to a marriage hall or pandal, it gets its name Madwa. The entrance of this temple flaunts traditional architectural embellishments.

The Istaliq temple or the temple built with dried or burnt clay bricks adjoins the main Bharamdeo temple. It was the first temple built between the 2nd and 3rd centuries. This temple is in a dilapidated condition and only has sanctum sanctorum without an entrance hall or mandap. The tower above the sanctum sanctorum is extant only to half its height and there is a wall projecting out of this temple which is known as the Allinda. Other existing structural features seen in the sanctum sanctorum are a few sculpted pillars as well as a sculpted Shiva Linga that is deified here along with images of Uma Maheswar and that of the king and queen standing in a worshipful pose.

Cherki Mahal, the last temple in the complex, is not easily locatable as it is situated in a thinly forested area. A Shiva Linga form, not carved is deified in this temple. The roof of the sanctum of the temple has lotus decoration. The entrance porch has many aesthetic repeated patterns. A temple washed in red colour was recently built for the deity Hanuman, located on one side of the temple courtyard.

An open-air museum is located within the temple complex that is home to a massive collection of archaeological artefacts that were unearthed in this area, some even dating back to the 2nd or 3rd centuries. The Sati Pillars are also on display here that have a unique architectural motif, showing couples in squatting amorous postures. The museum complex also boasts collections such as dilapidated images and friezes of Linga and Nandi.

Guru Ghasidas National Park
A beautifully protected reserve located about 320 km north of Raipur, the Guru Ghasidas National Park is also known as the Sanjay National Park as it used to be part of Madhya Pradesh’s Sanjay National Park. After Chhatisgarh’s formation, 60% of the park came under the new state and was renamed Guru Ghasidas National Park.

Stretching over an area of 1441 sq km, the park is a must-visit while in Chattisgarh and is part of the Sanjay-Dubri Tiger Reserve, located in the Narmada Valley dry deciduous forests ecoregion. The park has a network of small streams cutting through forests which contain distinct flora and fauna. The park also offers safaris which highlight the park’s excellent features and allows picnics to be held inside the premises, with a choice of backdrop for the meal.

The history of Guru Ghasidas National Park dates back to 1981 when it was established. During this time, Guru Ghasidas was called Sanjay National Park and was a more significant area in Madhya Pradesh. The area of the park was then divided into two parts during the formation of the state of Chhattisgarh in 2000. During this time 60 per cent of Sanjay National Park fell under the district of Koriya in Chhattisgarh and this part of the park was then renamed Guru Ghasidas National Park after the famous Satnami reformist hero. The national park is now an individualistic thriving community of different plant and animal species under one roof.

The park is mostly composed of tropical forests of Sakhua or Sal trees. Many species are to be found here including the Bengal tiger and the Indian leopard as well as 309 species of birds, including the Golden Hooded Oriole and the Racket-tailed Drongo, among others and the park and its environs is the last known territory of the Asiatic cheetah in India.

The national park is smack in the middle of two very prominent tiger reserves, the Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh and the Palaman Tiger Reserve in Jharkhand. The geographical topography of the national parks includes several small hills that are separated by grassy, open plain areas as well as sandy soils. The forest area is mostly a mixed deciduous type along with patches of mixed subtropical vegetation. Aside from the array of streams that criss-cross through the terrain, the primary source of water for the animals is from two important rivers on the premises. These rivers include the Banas River in the west of the Guru Ghasidas National Park which is renowned for its diverse flora and fauna that spreads through the area.

The Guru Ghasidas National Park is open between 8 am and 6 pm daily and has an entry fee of INR 100 per adult and INR 50 per child. Guides who have extensive knowledge of the national park and its inhabitants are also available during the safari.

Travel Bucket List: India – Chattisgarh Part 1

Posted on October 5, 2022 by memoriesandsuch

A landlocked state in Central India, Chattisgarh is the ninth largest state by area, and the seventeenth most populous. It borders seven states – Uttar Pradesh to the north, Madhya Pradesh to the northwest, Maharashtra to the southwest, Jharkhand to the northeast, Odisha to the east, Telangana and Andhra Pradesh to the south. Formerly a part of Madhya Pradesh, it was granted statehood on 1 November 2000 with Raipur as the designated state capital.

One of India’s fastest-growing states, Chattisgarh is known for its scenic beauty and its cultural and traditional history. A resource-rich state, it has the third largest coal reserves in the country and provides electricity, coal, and steel to the rest of the nation. It also has the third largest forest cover in the country with over 40% of the state covered by forests.

There are several theories as to the origin of the name Chhattisgarh, which in ancient times was known as Dakshina or South Kosala. This was said to be Lord Rama’s maternal home. The name Chhattisgarh was popularised later during the time of the Maratha Empire and was first used in an official document in 1795. The most popular theory claims that Chhattisgarh takes its name from the 36 ancient forts, from chhattis meaning thirty-six and garh meaning fort in the area. However, most historians disagree with this theory as 36 forts have not been found and identified.

Another view, more popular with experts and historians, is that Chhattisgarh is the corrupted form of Chedisgarh meaning Raj or the empire of the Chedis. In ancient times, the Chhattisgarh region had been part of the Chedi dynasty of Kalinga, in modern-day Odisha. In the medieval period up to 1803, a major portion of present eastern Chhattisgarh was part of the Sambalpur Kingdom of Odisha.

In ancient times, this region was known as Dakshina Kosala and has also been mentioned in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. One of the earliest statues of Vishnu has been excavated from the Shunga period site at Malhar. Between the sixth and twelfth centuries, the Sharabhpurias, the Panduvanshis of Mekala and Dakshina Kosala, the Somavanshi, the Kalachuri and the Nagavanshi rulers dominated this region. The Bastar region of Chhattisgarh was invaded by Rajendra Chola I and Kulothunga Chola I of the Chola dynasty in the 11th century.

Chhattisgarh has a significant role in the life of Lord Rama, who, along with his wife Sita and his younger brother Lakshmana started his vanvas or exile in the forest in the Bastar area, then known as Dandakarayna and they lived more than 10 of their 14 years of exile in different places in Chhattisgarh.

Chhattisgarh was under Maratha rule from 1741 to 1845 and then came under British rule from 1845 to 1947 as the Chhattisgarh Division of the Central Provinces. Raipur gained prominence over the capital Ratanpur with the advent of the British in 1845. In 1905, the Sambalpur district was transferred to Odisha and the estates of Surguja were transferred from Bengal to Chhattisgarh.

The area constituting the new state merged into Madhya Pradesh on 1 November 1956, under the States Reorganisation Act of 1956 and remained a part of that state for 44 yearsSome areas constituting the Chhattisgarh state were princely states under British rule but were later on merged into Madhya Pradesh. The demand for Chhattisgarh to be a separate state first arose in the 1920s, with similar demands appearing at regular intervals; however, a well-organised movement was never initiated. In 1954, when the State Reorganisation Commission was set up, the demand was put forward but was rejected. In 1955, the demand was raised in the Nagpur assembly of Madhya Bharat. In the 1990s, the demand became more prominent, resulting in the formation of a statewide political forum known as the Chhattisgarh Rajya Nirman Manch and several successful region-wide strikes and rallies were organised under it, all of which were supported by major political parties. The new National Democratic Alliance government sent the Separate Chhattisgarh Bill for approval by the Madhya Pradesh Assembly, where it was unanimously approved and then submitted to the Lok Sabha. The bill was passed in the Lok Sabha and the Rajya Sabha, which allowed the creation of the state of Chhattisgarh which happened on 1 November 2000.

The outline of Chhattisgarh is like a sea horse. The northern and southern parts of the state are hilly, while the central part is a fertile plain. Deciduous forests of the Eastern Highlands Forests cover roughly 44% of the state and the edge of the great Indo-Gangetic plain lies to the north. The eastern end of the Satpura Range and the western edge of the Chota Nagpur Plateau form an east-west belt of hills that divide the Mahanadi River basin from the Indo-Gangetic plain. The central part of the state lies in the fertile upper basin of the Mahanadi River and its tributaries and has extensive rice cultivation. The state has 3rd largest forests by area with the wild Asian Buffalo the state animal and the hill myna the state bird and the state tree the Sal. There are multiple National Parks, Tiger Reserves across the state with the Achanakmar-Amarkantak Biosphere Reserve a UNESCO recognised Biosphere with a total area of 3835.51 sq km. India’s oldest tribes dwell here, some of them for almost 10,000 years. About 80% of the population of the state is rural and the main livelihood is agriculture and agriculture-based small industries. The Odia culture is prominent in the eastern parts of Chhattisgarh bordering Odisha. Chhattisgarh is known for its Kosa Silk and Dhokra or Bell metal art.

We shall be exploring the state starting from its capital, Raipur.

Raipur
Chattisgarh’s largest city and state capital, Raipur is a major commercial hub for trade and commerce in the region. It has seen exponential industrial growth and has become a major business hub in Central India. Regarded as one of the best cities to do business in, Raipur is abundantly rich in mineral resources and is among the biggest producers of steel and iron in the country with about 200 steel rolling mills, 195 sponge iron plants, at least 6 steel plants, 60 plywood factories, 35 ferroalloy plants and 500 agro-industries in the city. In addition, Raipur also has over 800 rice milling plants.

Archaeological evidence indicates the existence of Raipur since the 9th century. However, there is enough literary evidence that defines the history of Raipur since the time of the Maurya Empire. Raipur was once part of Southern Kosal and considered to be under the Maurya Empire and had later been the capital of the Haihaya Kings, controlling the traditional forts of Chhattisgarh for a long time. The Satawahana kings ruled this part till the second and third centuries. Emperor Samudragupta conquered this region in the fourth century, but the region came under the sway of the Sarabhpuri kings and then Nala Kings in the 5th and 6th centuries. Later on, the Somavanshi kings and then the Kalchuri kings of Tumman ruled this part making Ratanpur as capital. It is believed that the King Ramachandra of this dynasty established the city of Raipur and subsequently made it the capital of his kingdom.

Another story about Raipur is that King Ramachandra’s son Brahmdeo Rai established the city. His capital was Khalwatika, now Khallari and the newly constructed city was named after Brahmdeo Rai as Raipur. It was during this time, in 1402 that the temple of Hatkeshwar Mahadev was constructed on the banks of the river Kharun which remains one of the oldest landmarks in Raipur. After the death of king Amarsingh Deo, this region became the domain of the Bhonsle kings of Nagpur. With the death of Raghuji the III, the territory was taken over by the British and Chhattisgarh was declared a separate Commission with its headquarters at Raipur in 1854. After independence, Raipur district was included in the Central Provinces and Berar and became a part of Madhya Pradesh on 1 November 1956. After the formation of Chhattisgarh on 1 November 2000, Raipur became the capital of the new state.

Raipur is located near the centre of a large plain, sometimes referred to as the rice bowl of India, where hundreds of varieties of rice are grown. The Mahanadi River flows to the east of the city and the southern side has dense forests. The Maikal Hills rise on the north-west of Raipur while on the north, the land rises and merges with the Chota Nagpur Plateau and on Raipur’s south lies the Deccan Plateau.

The Banjari Mata Mandir is dedicated to the Goddess Banjari Mata and is thronged by devotees during the Navratri and Dusshera festival. Many devotees from neighbouring states and across the country flock to breathe in the sacred aura.

Located in Gariaband, about 85 km from Raipur, the Jatmai Temple is situated amidst lush greenery. The temple, devoted to Mata Jatmai is constructed with granite and has beautiful murals at its entrance. The temple is lit up and decorated during the festival of Navratri. The temple is open from 5:30 am to 8 pm daily. One of the few temples dedicated to Goddess Jatmai in India, the Jatmai Temple is also known as the Jatmai Ghatarani and is believed to be very powerful. The Shivalinga within the temple premises has a fascinating and mythological story behind it. It is believed that the fishermen of the city wanted to take the Shivalinga with them and so began digging deep to pull the idol out, but the Shivalinga kept going in deeper into the hole. Eventually, they gave up trying to move the idol. Located inside a forest, the architecture of the temple is astounding with one massive tower and many smaller ones featuring as its Shikhara or its spire. The temple is carved in granite, with many murals at the entrance of the temple with the Goddess inside a sanctum. On the way up the pathway, there is a beautiful Shivalinga in another small sanctum with water flowing down a huge rocky hill that gets collected in a reservoir. The temple is open all days of the week and can be visited between 5 am and 7 pm.

The Kevalya Dham Jain Temple is spread over a large area on the outskirts of the city with several temples within the premise dedicated to Jainism. Entirely made of marble, it is a quiet pause from the hustle and bustle of a fast-paced life.

Popular for its magnificent architecture and rich heritage, the Rajiv Lochan Mandir is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Located in Rajim, a one-hour car ride away from Raipur, the temple’s edifice rests on 12 columns with stone carvings around them. The best time to visit this temple is between 16 February and 1 March, when the sacred Rajim Lochan Mahotsav is hosted.

The 900-year-old Mahamaya Temple, with its rich history and architecture, attracts not just devotees, but also historians and archaeologists. Home to several gods and goddesses including Mahakali, Bhadrakali, Lord Shiva, Lord Hanuman, Lord Bhairav, and more, this temple has 18-inch walls surrounding the temple, and 16-inch stone columns supporting the temple’s structure. According to historians, the temple was built by King Ratnadev in the 11th century.

Located about 9 km from Raipur, Shadani Darbar is a massive pilgrimage space spread over 12 acres. Named after Sri Shadaramji Saheb, the place has a massive hall with Dhuni Saheb’s idol, and many other gods and goddesses are engraved all over the place where devotees perform Dukh Bhanjan Dhuni every day. Other attractions at Shadani Darbar include beautiful musical fountains and statues of religious idols.

The Ghatarani Waterfalls are located about 75 km southeast of Raipur and are the largest waterfalls in the state. Surrounded by lush greenery, the falls are a popular picnic spot. A small trek through a forest would lead one to the falls, at the bottom of which lies a naturally formed pool. Although the waterfall’s beauty is at its peak in the rainy season when the water is in full flow, it is best to avoid going during this time because of slippery terrains and mudslides.

The Kankali Talab is an ancient pond where it is believed that legendary sages, including the Goswami Naga sages belonging to the Dashnami Sanyasi sect, spent time near here. They meditated and prayed to the divine deity and so also decided to build a small temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in the middle of the pond. There are stones arranged on the sides of the pond. Even today, medicants can be seen meditating near the pond.

Swami Vivekanand Sarovar is also known as the Burha Talab which means an old lake. Fenced by many trees, especially palm trees, it is a tranquil place to visit. There are several food stalls just outside the park that provide cheap and good-quality street food. Apart from that, the lake is a popular picnic spot and a joggers’ paradise. The best time to visit the lake is in the evening, just before sunset. At a height of 37 feet, the statue of Swami Vivekananda in the lake has been added to the Limca Book of Records as the largest statue of Vivekananda. In the evenings, the fountain is brightly lit and the colourful light illuminates the place. Also, boating can be enjoyed on the lake with a minimal charge. During his time in Raipur, Swami Vivekananda was believed to have visited the lake for a bath every morning and hence the lake has been named after him. Having no entry fee, the lake is open between 6 and 9 am and then again between 3 and 8 pm.

Located in the heart of Raipur, the Gandhi Udhyan Park extends to the famous Bhagat Singh Chowk. With a lot of natural vegetation spread over the park, the walking area is neatly tiled. There is also a playground where yoga classes are held early in the morning. With a walking area of about 400 meters, it is an excellent place for a morning or evening walk. Located close to the Chief Minister’s residence, it is well-maintained and attracts a lot of people from the neighbourhood. The park is more pleasant during sunrise and sunset when the place is airy with many visiting the park at this time. The park is open between 5 and 9 am and then from 4 to 7 pm.

Also known as the Urja Park, the Solar Energy Park is an energy education park whose primary objective is to create awareness about energy savings. It is a fun-based theme park where children can learn while they play. Set up by the Chattisgarh Renewable Development Agency, CRDA, the park uses renewable sources of energy, especially solar energy, to run most of the rides. The park has lush greenery accompanied by exciting science puzzles, boating and musical fountains. In the artificial lake within the park, children can paddle solar boats and play in solar toy cars.

Purkhauti Muktangan is a delightful garden reflecting the rich culture of Chhattisgarh with folk art, life-like tribal figures, and vibrant sceneries that add to the beautiful experience. Located in Naya Raipur, about 19 km from Raipur, the gallery in the garden also has miniature models of Chhattisgarh State tourism sites like Karwadha, Bhoram Dev, Mata Danteshwari Temple in Dantewada, Chitrakote of Bastar, the Jagdalpur Forest and several folk dance models. One can see the entire state under one roof here. There is a restaurant available outside the park and several other places for snacks. Purkhauti Muktangan is a popular film and television shooting spot and one may run into local actors filming here. The garden is open between 8 am to 6 pm daily and is open on all days except Mondays when it is closed. The entry fee for children below 12 years is INR 2 and for those above 12 is INR 5.

Nandan Van Zoo & Safari is located at Naya Raipur and its primary objective is to protect and conserve animals. There is a jungle safari and boating and is a perfect spot to spend the day with kids. The zoo offers safari rides through the jungle lasting for about two hours which is very exciting. There are also boating rides in the zoo on a lake which is quite broad and spread over 130 acres known as the Khandwa Reservoir. The safari rates are INR 100 for adults and INR 50 for children between the ages of 7 and 12. No charges are applicable for children below the age of 6. It is up to the visitors to choose their safari vehicle the charges of which are in addition to the basic safari charges. There are two options, the first is an air-conditioned vehicle which will be charged INR 300 and the other is a non-airconditioned vehicle that will be charged INR 200. It is to be noted that separate charges have to be paid for taking photographs and videography and foreigners pay separate rates. There are four major safaris offered by the zoo. The herbivores safari is in an area of about 30 hectares where many species such as Blackbucks, also known as the Indian Antelope, Nilgai or Blue Bull and more especially the Sambar deers and spotted deers, all of which are widely spread. There is also a Tiger safari that is home to many Bengal tigers spread over an area of 20 hectares. There is also a Lion safari, spread over 20 hectares where Indian Lions can be spotted. Apart from these, there are also other carnivores and omnivores such as Mongoose, Leopards, four-horned Antelopes, and Jackals which roam freely around the forest area. The zoo also has a Bear safari with a collection of Himalayan Black Bears and Albino Bears spread over 20 hectares. The zoo also has a waiting area with an iMax theatre, museum, canteen, and food courts.

The Raipur Town Hall is a government office as well as a tourist site that is brimming with history. It houses information about the different dynasties that once ruled Raipur. Constructed in 1889 and inaugurated in 1890, the town hall has been renovated once. Earlier known as the Victoria Jubilee Hall, the Town Hall was constructed from stones transported from Raipur Fort in 1887. The Town Hall stands on several pillars and is painted red and white. Its construction took three years and comprises modern manufactured materials after renovation, including bricks used from Raipur Fort used in the original construction.

The Mahant Ghasi Memorial Museum is small but packed with the rich history of Raipur. This well-maintained museum boasts an impressive collection of tribal artefacts, inscriptions, coins, carvings, models, and other things related to anthropology and natural history. There are five galleries spread across two floors and a vast library. The open-air restaurant located on the ground floor has cheap but good tribal food. The entry fee to the museum is INR 5.

Champaran
Formerly known as Champajhar, Champaran or Champaranya’s name is derived from the Champa flower. There is a myth that in the past Champaran was a forest of Champa Flowers and so the place came to be named initially Champajhar where Jhar means a house and the place means a house of Champa flowers. Located about 46 km southeast of Raipur, Champaran is famous because it is the birthplace of Jagadguru Shrimad Vallabhacharya Mahaprabhu, the reformer and founder of the Vallabh sect also known as Pushtimarg. It is thus, a popular Vaishnava Peeth. Champaran is home to two temples that are dedicated to Shri Mahaprabhuji – the Prakatya Baithakji Mandir and the Mool Prakatya or more commonly known as Chatti Baithak and also holds an annual festival.

There are two temples dedicated to Shri Mahaprabhuji in Champaran. The first one is known as Prakatya Baithakji Mandir, while the second Baithakji is Mool Prakatya normally known as Chhatti Baithak. Apart from this, there is a Haveli temple dedicated to Shree Girirajji and Shree Balkrishnalalji. A small stream of the Mahanadi River flows near the temple which is believed to be from the Yamuna river and is worshipped. Mahaprabhuji’s Prakatya Utsav is celebrated every year on the eleventh day of Baisakh and many followers of the sect gather at the temple to pay homage. The annual fair of Champaran is held with great festivities in the month of Magh, which corresponds to January or February every year. The Champeswar Madadev Temple has a rare idol of Lord Shiva dedicated to Lord Shiva, Goddess Parvati and Lord Ganesh. The temple is usually open from 7 am to 7 pm daily, though it may be closed during the afternoon hours. The best time to visit Champaran would be during the winter months between October and March as weather conditions are suitable to explore the temples and their architecture. Visitors can also plan a trip during the Annual Festival of Champaran to witness the wide array of colours and festivities. It is recommended to avoid travelling to these parts during the summer as the sweltering temperatures make for an extremely uncomfortable trip.

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Memories of a very ordinary life

Tag Archives: Chhatisgarh

Travel Bucket List: India – Chattisgarh Part 2

Travel Bucket List: India – Chattisgarh Part 1