Festivals of India: Mysuru Dasara

Karnataka’s state festival or Nadahabba, the Dasara festival in Mysore is a 10-day festival, starting with the nine nights of Navaratri and the last day being Vijayadashami or Dasara. The festival is observed on the tenth day in the Hindu calendar month of Ashvina, which typically falls in the Gregorian months of September and October. The 10-day extravaganza marks the triumph of good over evil and pays homage to the goddess Chamundeshwari, the presiding deity of Mysuru.

Dasara, Navratri and Vijayadashami was the day in Hindu mythology when Goddess Chamundeshwari or Goddess Durga killed the demon Mahishasura, whose slaying by the Goddess gave the city its name of Mysuru. The Mysuru tradition celebrates the warriors and the state fighting for the good during this festival, ritually worshipping and displaying the state sword, weapons, elephants, and horses along with the Hindu Devi goddess in her warrior form, predominantly as well as the Vishnu avatar of Lord Rama. The origins of the Dasara festival can be traced back to ancient Hindu mythology, specifically the great epic, Ramayana. It is believed that Lord Rama, the seventh avatar of Lord Vishnu, worshipped the goddess Durga before embarking on his journey to rescue his wife, Sita, from the demon king Ravana. In commemoration of the divine blessings bestowed upon him, Lord Rama emerged victorious on the day of Vijayadashami, the tenth day of the festival. The ceremonies and a major procession are traditionally presided by the king of Mysuru.

The Dasara festivities began with the Vijayanagar kings as early as the 14th or 15th century and played a historical role in the 14th-century Vijayanagara Empire, where it was called Mahanavami and the festivities are shown in the relief artwork of the outer wall of the Hazara Rama temple of Hampi. The Italian traveller Niccolò de’ Conti described the festival’s intensity and importance as a grandeur religious and martial event with royal support. The event revered Durga as the warrior goddess or Chamundeshwari and hosted athletic competitions, singing and dancing, fireworks, a pageantry military parade and charitable giving to the public.

After the fall of the Vijayanagar to the Deccan Sultanates, these Hindu celebrations came to an end under Muslim rulers. The Wodeyars of Mysore formed a kingdom in Southern parts of the Vijayanagara Empire and continued the Mahanavami or Dasara festival celebration, a tradition started initially by Raja Wodeyar I in mid-September 1610 at Srirangapatna. The city of Mysuru has a long tradition of celebrating the Dasara festival with grandeur and pomp. The Dasara festival in Mysuru completed its 409th anniversary in 2019. Over the centuries, the Dasara festival evolved and assimilated various regional customs and traditions, ultimately becoming an essential part of Mysuru’s cultural identity. The festival showcases the city’s rich heritage and its reverence for its ruling family, the Wadiyars, who have played a pivotal role in preserving and promoting the festival’s grandeur.

The festival is the jewel in the city’s crown and the entire city springs into action. Adorned with colourful lights and decorations, the iconic Mysuru Palace, a masterpiece of Indo-Saracenic architecture, takes centre stage as it is beautifully illuminated with nearly 100,000 light bulbs from 7 to 10 pm on all days of the festival, presenting a breathtaking sight. The Nadahabba is inaugurated with great fanfare at the Mysuru Palace by the current scion of the royal family. Dressed in traditional regal attire, the Wadiyars carry the golden idol of the goddess Chamundeshwari in a magnificent procession, accompanied by traditional music, dance, and the beats of ceremonial drums. The spirit of the festival is infectious as locals and visitors alike gather to witness this majestic spectacle. The intricate floral rangoli, known as Rangoli Patha, adorn the palace grounds, and the aromatic fragrance of flowers fills the air, adding to the festive ambience. Various cultural and religious programs highlighting the dance, music and culture of the State of Karnataka are performed in front of the illuminated Palace.

The heart of Dasara lies in the nine nights of Navaratri, a time to celebrate the various forms of the divine goddess. Mysuru becomes a cultural haven during this period, with vibrant performances of classical music, dance, and folk arts taking place at various venues across the city.

The grand finale of the Dasara festival is the Vijayadashami procession, a regal pageantry that captivates all. The streets of Mysuru come alive with an unending sea of spectators, eagerly awaiting the arrival of the adorned elephant carrying the idol of goddess Chamundeshwari. The traditional Dasara procession, locally known as Jumboo Savari is held on the streets of Mysuru. The main attraction of this procession is the idol of the Goddess Chamundeshwari which is placed on a golden mantapa, made out of 750 kg of gold on the top of a decorated elephant. This idol is worshipped by the royal couple and other invitees before it is taken around in the procession. Colourful tableaux, dance groups, music bands, decorated elephants, horses and camels form a part of the procession which starts from the Mysore Palace and culminates at a place called Bannimantap where the Banni tree or Prosopis spicigera is worshipped.

According to a legend from the Mahabharata, the banni tree was used by the Pandavas to hide their weapons during their one-year period of Agnatavasa where they had to live incognito. Before undertaking any warfare, the kings traditionally worshipped this tree to help them emerge victorious in war. The Dasara festivities would culminate on the night of Vijayadashami with an event held on the grounds at Bannimantap called Panjina Kavayatthu or the torch-light parade.

The procession features beautifully decorated tableaux showcasing the city’s rich history and mythological stories. Folk dancers, performers, and cultural troupes from across the state add a vibrant touch to the procession, reiterating Karnataka’s diverse cultural heritage. The procession culminates with a breathtaking display of traditional music and fireworks, illuminating the night sky and leaving spectators in awe. After the Jamboo Savari, a torchlight parade takes place in the evening at the Bannimantap Parade Grounds.

The famous Mysuru Dasara Exhibition, held in the exhibition grounds opposite the Mysore Palace is a major highlight, where a carnival-like atmosphere enthrals visitors with thrilling rides, games, and mouthwatering street food. Local artisans and craftsmen showcase their talents in the exhibition, adding a touch of traditional artistry to the festivities. The exhibition was started by the Maharaja of Mysore, Chamaraja Wodeyar X in 1880 with the sole aim of introducing timely developments to the people of Mysore. The task of holding the exhibition is now entrusted to the Karnataka Exhibition Authority or KEA. This exhibition starts during Dasara and goes on till December. A play area containing attractions like a Ferris wheel is also present to provide entertainment and various Governmental agencies set up stalls to signify the achievements and projects that they have undertaken.

The Dasara Sports Meet, reminiscent of the days of the Maharajas, draws enthusiastic participants and spectators alike. The traditional sport of Kusti or wrestling and other indigenous games and races bring back the nostalgic charm of a bygone era and attract wrestlers from all around India. On all the 10 days of Dasara, various music and dance concerts are held in auditoriums around Mysore city. Musicians and dance groups from all over India are invited to perform on this occasion.

The Dasara procession has faced increasing pressure from activists and campaigners to end its controversial use of elephants. Procession elephants, as well as their handlers known as mahouts, have died from several shocking incidents over the years. In 2018, leaked footage from the elephants’ training ground showed an elephant swaying in distress. International press labelled the video heartbreaking and reported on how the elephants must undergo two months of rigorous training to perform in the procession.

Dasara in Mysuru is not just a festival; it is a testament to the city’s deep-rooted heritage and the enduring spirit of its people. It is festivals like this, that help us to cherish and preserve our cultural legacies for generations to come.

Nine Nights of Prayer, Dancing and Fun

I really miss being in India during the festive season. Today is the start of the Navratri festival in India and everywhere there are Hindus. Navratri literally means nine nights and this festival, in honour of the various manifestations of the Goddess Durga or is celebrated with pomp and pagentry in different ways across the country. Everyday is dedicated to one form or aspect and the festival ends on the tenth day called Dusshera or Vijayadashami. Dusshera epitomises the victory of good over evil.

Goddess Durga and her various forms

Since almost all the festivals that Hindus celebrate go by the lunar calendar, Navratri is celebrated in the Hindu month of Ashwin, which corresponds to end September/early October every year. There is no definite date and the dates are determined every year based on the moon’s aspects.

Ramlila

While the whole country celebrates Navrati, the festival is celebrated in different ways throughout the country. In North India, people fast during the nine days and pray to the the various forms of Shakti by singing bhajans or devotional songs. The Ramayan is also performed during the nine days in Ramlila grounds with the tenth day reserved for the killing of the demon king Ravan. In the north they believe that the nine days of Navratri is the time Lord Ram battled with Ravan and it was on Dusshera that he killed him – hence the name Vijaydashami or the day of victory.

Dandiya Raas

In the state of Gujarat, Navratri is one of the biggest festivals celebrated. Here, a big statue of Durga is kept in communal areas and homes and every nights, everybody comes out to dance the garba and the dandiya raas. Nowadays the garba is rarely performed or if performed, it is done right at the begining and the rest of the time, it’s time for the dandiya. In Mumbai, the nine days is filled with people going to different dandiya grounds everyday and playing to their hearts content.

Image from Wikipedia - Durga Puja Pandal in West Bengal

In West Bengal, the last four days or Saptami, Ashtami, Navami and Dashami is the most important with the Pujos happening. Again like in Gujarat, there are big statues of Durga and communal praying and celebrations take place.

Golu

In South India, steps are created with golus which are dolls collected by the family and kept for the nine days. Married women and young girls are called home for haldi kumkum. It is said it is very auspicious to girl young girls (i.e. girls who have not yet started mensurating) gifts in the form clothes, bangles etc. In the south, the ninth day is also celebrated as Saraswati Puja where books and implements used for your profession are kept in front of the Goddess Saraswati, who is the Goddess of learning. We used to love this day as this was one day sanctioned by the scriptures where you should not study! The whole day the books are kept and on Dusshera, the books are taken out and then studied. In my family, we also wear new clothes on this day.

Image from Wikipedia - Jumbo Savari during celebrations in Mysore

In Mysore, Karnataka, the festival is celebrated with a lot of pomp and show and the Mysore Palace is especially lit up for the occasion.

The Navratri is divided into three parts of three days each. The first three days are devoted to Goddess Durga or Kali (the destroyer) and her different forms, the middle three days to Goddess Lakshmi (the provider) and her manifestations and the last three days to Goddess Saraswati (the giver of wisdom) and her various aspects.

The last day is Dusshera which is considered a very auspicious day to begin something new. Many parents who plan to put their children in school, have a small ceremony in the temple to start their formal learning process called Vidyarambham. We did this for BB & GG when they were around 2 years old. The ceremony had the parent use the index finger of the child to write an auspicious symbol (usually OM) so that that is the first thing they write.

So what will we be doing? Starting today, almost everyday GG & me (with BB tagging along) will visit family and friends for the Haldi Kumkum ritual. GG being a pre-meranche girl is high in demand and so I will take her wherever I go. On Friday BB & GG will be singing at a temple near our place along with their classical music teacher and friends. Then on Dusshera, we will go to the same classical music teacher’s place to pay our respects and start the second year of music studies! And in between all this is studies as this is exam season here!!