Travel Bucket List – India: Gujarat Part 5

Today’s Gujarat destinations is all about Saurashtra, the peninsular part of Gujarat which forms a triangle jutting out to the Arabian Sea.

A peninsular region of Gujarat covering about a third of the state, some parts of Saurashtra are also known as Sorath or Kathiawar. The Saurashtra peninsula is bound on the south and south-west by the Arabian sea, on the north-west by the Gulf of Kutch and on the east by the Gulf of Khambhat. From the apex of these two gulfs, the Little Rann of Kutch and Khambhat, waste tracts half salt morass half sandy desert, stretch inland towards each other and complete the isolation of Kathiawar, except one narrow neck which connects it on the north-east with the mainland of Gujarat. The name Kathiawar is after the Kathi Darbar, which once ruled most of the region. However, Saurashtra is not entirely synonymous with Kathiawar, since a small portion of the historical Saurashtra region extends beyond the Kathiawar peninsula. Sorath forms the southern portion of the peninsula.

Referred to as Saurashtra and as some other names as well over a period of time, since the Mahabharata and Vedic period, this region is mentioned again as Surastrene, or Saraostus in the 1st century. Saurashtra and its Prakrit name Sorath, literally means “Good Country”. The name finds mentions in the Junagadh Rock inscription dating to 150, attributed to Rudradaman I. From the 8th to the 11th centuries, Brahmin merchants from the Saurashtra region started migrating towards Southern India due to the frequent Muslim invasions. On the invitation of the Chola, Pandya, Vijayanagara, Nayak and Thanjavur Maratha Kings, they set up mercantile silk-weaving guilds throughout Southern India and were involved in the trade of silk clothes and diamonds to the royal families of ancient South India, as the silk became the attire of royal families after the period of Gupta dynasty. These Brahmins who trace their ancestry to the historical region of Saurashtra are now known as the Saurashtra people. For a long time, the name Sorath referred to the region around Gir. From the 9th to the 14th centuries, Chudasama Rajputs ruled Sorath from their capitals of Vanthali and Junagadh alternativelyuntil the area came under Muslim rule. Sorath, a Muslim name of Saurashtra, was initially one of ten prants or historical disricts, but by the colonial era, it was one of only four surviving ones, the others being absorbed. The princely state of Junagadh was founded during British rule. In 1947, during partition, Junagadh’s Muslim ruler desired to accede his territory to Pakistan, but the predominantly Hindu population rebelled. After India’s independence, 217 princely states of Kathiawar, including the former Junagadh State, were merged to form the state of Saurashtra on 15 February 1948 with Rajkot as its capital. On 1 November 1956, Saurashtra was merged into Bombay state and when the Bombay state split along linguistic lines in 1960, Saurashtra, including Junagadh and all of Sorath, became part of the state of Gujarat.

Important cities and places in Suarashtra include Rajkot, Jamnagar, Dwaraka, Porbandar, Junagadh, Gir Somnath, Morbi, Bhavnagar, Amreli, Botad and Surendranagar

Rajkot
The fourth-largest city in Gujarat, Rajkot lies in the centre of the Saurashtra region and is located on the banks of the Aji and Nyari rivers. The city has been under different rulers since it was founded with a long history and has had significant influence on the Indian independence movement.

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The Khambhalida Caves, also known as Rajkot Caves, are a set of three Buddhist caves cut out of limestone dating back to the 4th and 5th centuries. They are located near Gondal about 65 km south of Rajkot . Out of the three caves, the centre cave is named Chaitya and is a worn out stupa. Two sentinel statues, the left one being the stone of Bodhisattva and the right one being that of Vajrapani also stand guard atop a nearby cliff face which looks down on the caves. These caves are believed to be the oldest caves in Rajkot and are currently maintained by the Archaeology Department of Gujarat. Entry is free to the caves.

Around 35 km south of Rajkot lies the quaint city of Gondal once ruled by a royal family whose passion for cars was well known as well as its efficient road network dating from pre-independence times. That passion resulted in a wonderful collection of automobiles which are today exhibited in the museum located inside the palace premises. The city retains its grandeur and sense of royalty with the help of the Riverside Palace and the Darbargadh. The Riverside Palace which was built in 1875 by Batwat Singhji is now a heritage hotel whose enormous grounds double into a private forest reserve where individuals can occasionally spot deer and rare bird species. The Darbargadh also known as ‘Navlakha Palace’, on the other hand, is a 17th-century palace whose main feature are the excellent arches that are scattered across the grounds. Exploring its interiors provides a glimpse of the opulent living style of the Maharajas. You can enter the Darbargadh by paying a small fee. This place is also home to the Shri Bhuvaneshwari Pith, a very famous temple with the presiding diety of Goddess Bhuvaneshwari, considered as the creator of the universe.

Mahatma Gandhi spent his early years in Rajkot and the Kaba Gandhi no Delo is the house where he lived when studying here while his father was the Diwan of Rajkot. This place is now a museum of historical importance with preserved artefacts and a pictorial tour which depicts the life of Mahatma Gandhi. An NGO also holds classes in the grounds which are primarily based on sewing and embroidery work for anyone who wishes to learn. This museum is open from 9 am to 12 noon and then again from 3 pm to 6 pm from Mondays to Saturdays and from 10 am on Sundays.

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The Gandhi Museum, commonly referred to as the Mahatma Gandhi Museum documents and exhibits the life and work of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. This museum has 39 galleries which provide the visitor an enriching and comprehensive information about Gandhi and his ideologies. The museum is located in what was formerly the Alfred High School, which was where Mahatma Gandhi attended school in 1887. The museum also features a Light & Sound show based on Gandhiji’s life which is around 20 minutes daily at 7 pm. Fee paying visitors have this show included in the cost of their tickets. The museum is open from 10 am to 7 pm on all days except Mondays when it is closed. You will need around 2 hours to see the entire museum and ticket prices are INR 10 for Indians between the ages of 3-12, INR 25 for Indians above the age of 12 and INR 400 for foreigners.

One of the largest and oldest museums in Gujarat, the Watson Museum contains many artefacts and belongings of the Jadeja Rajput dynasty, who were also the founder of the princely state of Rajkot. The Gujarat State Government manages this museum and has preserved this as a part of the state’s long and rich cultural heritage. Other than the collections, the museum also has an extensive library. The museum has various sections containing scriptures, inscriptions, manuscripts, painting, coins, embroidery and textile works, handicraft items, different wood carving, musical instruments, etcetera. Several royal families from different parts of India have donated many paintings, artefacts, and manuscripts to the museum which it now houses.It also has on display examples of the colonial style of textile and jewellery design. One of the fascinating sections in the museum is the one on the Indus Valley Civilisation, which contains several artefacts collected during the excavations located around Saurashtra. These artefacts include many statues, coins, carvings, and costumes of the inhabitants of Mohenjo Daro. The museum is open every day except Wednesdays, the second and fourth Saturdays of each month, and all government holidays, from 9 am to 12:45 pm and then again from 3 pm to 6 pm. Entry fees are very nominal with students paying INR 2, Indians paying INR 5 and foreigners paying INR 50.

A very interesting and unique museum in Rajkot is the Rotary Dolls Museum with its array of dolls from all around the world. Each doll in the museum unique as they tell tales of different traditions and cultures around the world. There are more than 1600 dolls in the museum wearing apparel representing over 102 countries, their cultures and traditions. The dolls have been donated to the museum by various rotary clubs throughout the world. The museum also maintains brief records of history about the dolls for knowledge as well as entertainment. The museum is open from 9:30 am to 1 pm and then again from 3:30 to 7:30 pm every day except Mondays. Adults pay INR 25 while children above the age of 5 pay INR 15 and if you want to use a camera inside, you need to pay INR 35 for that.

The Jagat Mandir is a universal temple which holds the idols of several deities and takes into account religions like Hindism, Christianity, Islam and Buddhism. However, the chief deity to which the temple is devoted to is Shri Ramakrishna Paramahamsa. The statue of Paramahamsa is made entirely out of white marble which contrasts the temple walls, and the idol is depicted sitting on a lotus flower. Aside from its religious uniqueness, the temple is also known for its architecture. The temple is entirely made of red stone which contrasts with its natural surroundings and stands out during the day as well as night. The temple is supported by 60 pillars which are made of granite and sandstone and are unique in their own right.

The Jubilee Garden is situated in the heart of the city and is an open garden with an expanse of lush green grass, ideal for a family picnic or a day out with friends. Within the garden area, there is a museum, an auditorium, a library which is known as Lang Library and a few fairground rides. The pathways in Jubilee Garden are adorned with small plants and bushes. The avenue of shady trees and the occasional sight of uncommon birds are the reasons why nature lovers love to spend their leisure time in the Garden.

The Lalpari Lake located at the outskirts of Rajkot has a captivating landscape that entices its audience. The glimmering lake along with the lush green surroundings makes an excellent picnic spot as well. Another exciting aspect of the lake which brings forth a lot of nature enthusiasts is the fact that it attracts several migratory birds which can be easily spotted from the lakes shore and which add to the mystic beauty of the place.
Located at a distance of 5 km from Rajkot, Nyari Dam is a scenic picnic spot that is frequented by locals and tourists. This dam also draws a lot of birdwatchers as the area is visited by several migratory birds especially during the winter season. Recently, a children’s area has also been constructed here to let kids have a good time. In addition to that, there are a few eateries and food stalls at the spot to provide you with refreshments and beverages.

Dividing the city of Rajkot along its east-west line, the Aji river is one of the most important rivers of the region. It supplies considerable water for drinking as well as for agricultural purposes, and is also often referred to as the ‘lifeline of Rajkot’. There are four dams across the Aji river, which was completed in the year of 1954; the garden and the zoo were inaugurated later in June 2017, by the then Prime Minister. The Aji dam, on the downstream area of the river, is the most important one among them and is located in the outskirts of Rajkot, around 8 km from the central city. This dam, along with the Nyari Dam, makes for an essential source of water for Rajkot. The Aji dam also has a garden and a zoo next to it, which makes it an even more attractive tourist destination.

Located in a tranquil setting the Rampara Wildlife Sanctuary has sprawling acres of land boasting of a rich wildlife, both in terms of flora and fauna. Considered to be a haven for bird lovers, the sanctuary attracts a lot of migratory birds like the ring dove, large gray blabber, yellow-throated sparrow, purple sunbird, common peafowl and partridges etc., it is also not unusual to find several deer and antelopes flocking the place. Among other common animals that can be found here are blue bull, hyena, foxes, jackals, and wolves etc. Established in 1988, Rampara Wildlife Sanctuary is spread over 15 square km of land area and boasts of over 280 species of flora and 130 species of birds, and over 30 species of reptiles and mammals. The land area is divided into patches with shrubs, trees and there is a watchtower constructed in the centre, from where you can enjoy a bird’s eye view of the place. The sanctuary is open from 7 am to 7 pm on all days except Sundays.

Jamnagar
Jamnagar is the largest city on the westernmost part of India and is the fifth largest city in Gujarat. H.H. Jam Ranjitsinhji was instrumental in building the modern infrastructure of the city during his reign in the 1920s. Thereafter, the city was substantially developed by Jam Saheb Shri Digvijaysinhji Ranjitsinhji in the 1940s, when it was part of the Princely state of Nawanagar. The city lies just to the south of the Gulf of Kutch.

Nawanagar was founded by Jam Rawal in 1540 as the capital of the eponymous princely state. Jamnagar, historically known as Nawanagar or the new town, was one of the most important and the largest Princely states of the Jadejas in the Saurashtra region. According to mythology, Lord Krishna established his kingdom at Dwarka town in Jamnagar district, after migrating from Mathura, and accordingly, it is to the Yadava race that the Jams of Nawanagar trace their ancestry. Once on a hunting trip in present-day Jamnagar, a hare was found to be brave enough to turn on the hunting dogs and put them to flight. Deeply impressed by this, Jam Sri Rawalji thought that if this land could breed such hares, the men born here would be superior to other men, and accordingly he made this place his capital. In August 1540 on the banks of the rivers Rangmati and Nagmati, he laid the foundation of his new capital and named it Nawanagar or new town, which after few centuries came to be known as Jamnagar, meaning the town of the Jam’s.

The Pratap Vilas Palace is a beautiful royal palace built by Jam Ranjit Singhji between 1907 and 1915. The palace is constructed in the Indo-Saracenic architecture style overlaid with European architecture inspirations, reminiscent of the Victoria Memorial Building in Kolkata. The three glass domes are the chief attraction here. The carvings of flowers, leaves, creepers, birds and animals on the pillars enhance the appeal of the palace. The walls of the magnificent halls of the building are adorned with hung portraits and paintings by artists of that period. There are swords and armor and other period pieces. Mainly built to serve as a guest house for royal guests, the palace sits in the middle of spacious grounds and a park that was converted in to a Natural Park in 1968 by Maharaja Kumar Ranjit Singhji. The Gujarat earthquake of 2001 has caused loss of a few parapets and furthermore the partition of some upper dividers at the rooftop level of the royal residence. Though not open to the public, permission can be obtained from the Darbargarh Palace to visit this palace, but note that even with permission, you may not have access to all areas inside the Palace. The Palace is open on all days from 11 am to 5 pm and you need to pay INR 100 per person to get inside.

Also known as Lakhota Lake, the Ranmal Lake is one of the largest water bodies in the city. The lake was constructed in the mid-19th century by Jam Ranmal II, the king of Nawanagar. The lake was intended to act as a water reservoir in times of need. The lake is home to one of the oldest man-made structures in Jamnagar, the famous Lakhota Palace. The Lakhota Palace is situated on an island in the middle of the Ranmal Lake in the shape of a large bastion. This palace was constructed as a famine relief work in 1839-45 AD by the then Maharaja of Nawanagar. An arched stone bridge connects the Lakhota Palace with the town. The entire palace was designed as a fort with the Ranmal Lake serving as a natural moat. The palace contains a circular tower, a pavilion and rooms for the royal guards. The tower and turrets surrounding the structure was also used by soldiers to store their arsenal. This palace now houses a museum which possesses sculptures dating from 9th to 18th century, arms and firearms, medieval age pottery from surrounding villages and so on. The walls of the museum are adorned with frescos depicting scenes of battle fought by Jadeja Rajputs. The lake is lit at night which makes the whole place more attractive and there is also a musical fountain show at night. The lake is open from 5 am to 10 pm while the palace and museum are open from 19:30 am to 2 pm and then again from 2:30 pm to 5:30 pm. The musical fountain show runs between 8:30 – 9 pm on all days except Wednesdays. The entry fee for the lake is INR 10 per person and INR 25 is charged for the musical fountain show.

Darbargadh is an old royal palace which served as the first royal residence of the Jam Sahib. The construction of the palace was initially started in 1540 AD along with the construction of Jamnagar city but it went on intermittently leading to an exquisite mix of Rajput and European architectural styles. It is in the form of a rectangular palace surrounded by walls, having gates in each direction to enter. The palace complex consists of a number of buildings with very fine architectural features and detailing with some fine examples of stone carvings, jali-screens, ornate pillars, decorated mirrors and sculptures. The rooms of the palace are full of paintings portraying armies bearing images of men and women in the setting of battlefields and palaces. In one of the hall, the ceiling is covered with the map of Jamnagar and is believed that the map was engraved in 1912. The outer walls of the palace are featured with carved jharokha balconies designed in the Indian tradition. A section of the palace called the Tilamedi is said to be the place where the crowning ceremony of kings used to take place. The wooden throne of Jam Rawal, his sword, dagger and spear are still preserved in Tilamedi. Jam Ranjitsingh built two important urban projects in front of Darbargadh Palace namely Willington Crescent and Chelmsford Market. There is a statue of Jam Ranjitsinghji in the middle of the crescent. The Chelmsford Market is located in front of the Willington Crescent which is a two storied semicircular arcade. At this semicircular arcade outside the palace, the former Maharajas of Nawanagar once used to gather and hold his public meetings. The earthquake of 2001 caused significant damage to the Darbargadh Palace. You can visit this palace between 9 am to 9 pm and entry is free.

The Bala Hanuman Temple also known as the Shri Bala Hanuman Sankirtan Mandir is a Hindu temple situated on the southeast corner of Ranmal Lake. The temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and was established in 1964 by Shri Prembhikshuji Maharaj. The temple houses the idols of Lord Ram, Lakshman, Goddess Sita and Hanuman and is very popular as it has been recorded in the Guinness Book of World Record for its continuous 24 – hours chanting of the mantra, ‘Sri Ram, Jai Ram, Jai Jai Ram’ since 1964. The temple has intricate architecture that consists of ethnically designed pillars and amazing carvings. The temple is open from 6 pm to 12 noon and then again from 4:30 to 10 pm though the chanting is constantly going on and visitors can join in this chanting.

The Jain Temple complex is a cluster of four Jain temples dedicated to various thirthankaras of the Jain sect. These temples form the centerpiece of the old city with its lovely buildings of wood and stone, adorned with pastel colored shutters and wooden balconies. Built between 1574 and 1622, the most intricate of the temples in the complex is the Raisi Shah Temple dedicated to the 16th tirthankar, Shantinath. Also known as Shantinath Temple, the temple has mirrored domes, coloured columns, and intricate carving. The walls of Shantinath Mandir are richly decorated with fine frescos as well as other wall paintings (murals), which depict the lives of various Tirthankaras. The floor is made of marble and is decorated with distinctive Jain patterns in yellow, black, white and red. Next is the Vardhman Shah temple, dedicated to Adinath, the 1st thirthankar of Jainism. Also known as Adinath Jain Temple, it is a simple structure compared to Shantinath Temple, but more vibrant in color. The foundation stone of this shrine was laid in 1612, during the reign of Jam Jasaji I, and it was completed in the year 1620. The temple is surrounded by 52 small temples or Deri, which were built in the year 1622. The third temple is Sheth’s Temple which was built by Bhansali Abji in the year 1594 AD. The last temple in the complex is Vasupujya Swami Temple and is believed to be built by Aaskaran Shah in the 17th century. The complex is open from 5:30 am to 1 pm and then again from 3:30 pm to 9 pm.

The Bhidbhanjan Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and this beautiful temple was constructed during the rule of Jam Rawal, the founder of city. The temple is best known for its Hindu-Rajput style of architecture. The temple walls and pillars are adorned with exquisite carvings and the intricate silver work on the doors is a testament to the craftsmanship that is found in Jamnagar even today. The shikhara of the temple is inspired from the architecture of the shikhara of South Indian temples. There are also 10 small shrines dedicated to various Hindu gods including Goddess Parvati and Lord Ganapati. People believe that chanting of Mrutyunjay Mahadev mantra here is quite beneficial. The best time to visit the temple is during the aarti, which is usually performs at 7 pm while the temple is open from 8 am to 8 pm.

The Bohra Hajira, a beautiful mausoleum, also known as Mazar E Badri, it is one of the holiest of its kind in Gujarat. The resting place of Mota Bawa, a Muslim saint, the dargah of the Dawoodi Bohra community was built by Jam Rawal in 1540 on the banks of the Rangmati and Nagmati Rivers. Made out of white marble, the mausoleum that represents the Saracenic style of architecture has intricate carvings. When this mausoleum was being constructed, it used to be the boarding place for those who wanted to cross the Nagmati or Rangmati rivers by boat. Today, the rivers have almost dried up now and the dried river banks close to the Hajira play host to Hindu fairs during the holy month of Shravan. One can also visit Saifee Tower situated nearby. Please not that you need to take prior permission from the manager to visit the mausoleum which is open from 8 am to 8 pm daily.

Located 16 km from Jamnagar the Khijadiya Bird Sanctuary is situated off the coast of Kutch and covers an area of about 6 sq km. This bird sanctuary is unique in having fresh water lakes as well as salt and freshwater marshlands. Though it was officially declared as a sanctuary in 1982, it had already become a natural habitat for local and migratory birds before India’s independence when the then rulers constructed a small check dam on the Ruparel river for storing water. This dam created a unique ecosphere with the freshwater lakes on one side and the salty water of the sea forming marshes on the other to support not only a variety of fauna but also flora. The main sanctuary covers the area around the Ruparel and Kalindi rivers towards the north-east of Jamnagar. The sanctuary is home to more than 250 species of resident and migratory birds, including globally threatened species such as Dalmatian pelican, Asian open bill stork, Black-necked stork, Darter, Black-headed ibis, Eurasian spoonbill, and the Indian skimmer. It is more recognized as the breeding ground for the great crested grebe. One can also find jackals, cats, snakes, wolves, bluebells, mongoose and reptiles here. The site is also considered remarkable for ecological research and education. There are also facilities like nature trails, watchtowers, and reclamation bunds to watch these winged visitors. One can climb up any of the three watch towers, opt for paddle boats, or walk along any of the trails to check out the wild in all its grandeur. The best season to visit the sanctuary is between September to February and the best time is either early in the morning or in the evening. However, note that entry to the sanctuary has to be registered with the Forest Office in Jamnagar which closes at 2 pm. The sanctuary is open from 6:30 am to 6 pm. The entry fee for Indians is INR 40 and for foreigners it is USD 10. You also need to pay for any camera or video equipment you take inside as well as for your vehicle.

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The Narara Marine National Park is a marine wildlife sanctuary in the Gulf of Kutch located 56 km from Jamnagar and is the first Marine National Park in India. This place is among the few where one can look at corals without having to dive down into the water. An area of about 458 sq km between Okha and Jodiya was declared as a marine sanctuary in 1980 and later in 1982, about 163 sq km of the core area was declared as a Marine National Park. There are 42 tropical islands on the Jamnagar coast in the Marine National Park, most of them surrounded by reefs out of which 33 islands have coral reefs. Some of the best known islands are Pirotan, Karubhar, Narara, and Poshitra. There are islands with sandy beaches and mangrove swamps. The major ecosystem available are coral reefs, mangroves, mudflats, creeks, sea grass, & sea weeds, estuaries, sandy strands to saline grasslands, marshy areas and rocky shores. All of the ecosystems support the rich marine life & bird life in the marine park. The sanctuary lies in the intertidal zone, so during low tide, visitors can get to observe the rich diversity of marine life here. If you just walk in the water during low tide till about 1-2 feet of water, you can see this fascinating underwater world of corals. It is a 2 km walk and takes 1.5 – 2 hours to complete and during the walk, you can spot a variety of marine life. Since it is protected area, visitors cant pick up anything from the marine national park and ca’t touch, catch or disturn any marine creature. Here again, you need permission from the forest department to access the park and foreign tourists need additional permission from the police department.

The park can be accessible only during low tide and in a day there are four tides; two high and two low. The High tide occurs every 12 hours, and the Coral walk is done between the two high tides. Generally, it takes 3.5 hours for the tide to reach its highest point at Narara, so make sure you start your visit when low tide starts, as you cannot enter the park during high tide. If you are planning to visit this marine park, make sure you call the forest office at Jamnagar or check online for the details of tidal times before you visit. The park is open from 9 am onwards and entry fee is INR 100 for Indiams and INR 650 for foreigners. A guide will cost you INR 300 and you need to pay INR 200 for any camera you will take inside.

Pirotan Island which is spread across 3 sq km, is one of the 42 islands which comprise the Narara Marine National Park. It is one of the two islands in the marine national park, the other being Narara Island. Pirotan was originally known as ‘Pir jo Thaan’ which means the sacred place of a saint, in this case of Saint Khwaja Khizer Rahmatullahialaih. The holy shrine of the saint is located on the island which also houses a lighthouse. The island is uninhabited except for the workers at Pirotan Island’s lighthouse, the forest guard, and the Mujhavars or servers at the shrine. Because there is no regular ferry service to the island, one has to hire boats from the Bedi or Rozi Ports and it takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to reach the island. Since the beach is very shallow, the boats can only reach the island during high tide and leave the island during high tide. The tide timings need to be checked with the forest department or locals as they tend to change with the change in the position of moon. Bring your own food and water as there is nothing on the island and you will need to stay for approximately 12 hours on the island as the high tide cycle is a 12 hour one. As with Narara, you need the permission of the forest department and in this case permission from the customs and port authorties as well. Foreigners need additional permission from the police.

Dwarka
Dwarka or Devbhoomi Dwarka as it’s also known, is an ancient city located on the western shore of the Okhamandal Peninsula on the right bank of the Gomti River. One of the Chardhams or the four sacred Hindu pilgrimage sites, Dwarka is one of the Sapta Puri or the seven most ancient religious cities in the country. The city is also often identified with the Dwarka Kingdom, the ancient kingdom of Krishna, and is believed to have been the first capital of Gujarat. The city’s name literally means gateway and has been referred to throughout its history as “Mokshapuri”, “Dwarkamati”, and “Dwarkavati”. It is mentioned in the ancient prehistoric epic period of the Mahabharata and according to legend, Krishna settled here after he defeated and killed his uncle Kansa at Mathura. This mythological account of Krishna’s migration to Dwarka from Mathura is closely associated with the culture of Gujarat. Krishna is also said to have reclaimed 12 yojanas or 96 square kilometres of land from the sea to create Dwarka. Dwarka was established as the capital in Saurashtra by the Vedic Indians during the Puranaic period. The Yadavas, who had migrated from Mathura, established their kingdom here when the city was known as “Kaushathali” and during this period, the city underwent rebuilding and was named Dwarka. The city’s Dwarkadhish Temple dedicated to Krishna was originally built around 2,500 years ago, but was destroyed by the Mahmud Begada rulers and subsequently rebuilt in the 16th century. The temple is also the location of Dwaraka matha, also called Sharada Matha or Sharada Peeth and the “western peeth”, one of the four peeths or religious centres established by Adi Shankaracharya.

Archaeological investigations at Dwarka, both on shore and offshore in the Arabian Sea, have been performed by the Archaeological Survey of India. The first investigations carried out on land in 1963 revealed many artifacts. Excavations done at two sites on the seaward side of Dwarka brought to light submerged settlements, a large stone-built jetty, and triangular stone anchors with three holes. The settlements are in the form of exterior and interior walls, and fort bastions. From the typological classification of the anchors it is inferred that Dwarka had flourished as a port during the period of the Middle kingdoms of India. Coastal erosion was probably the cause of the destruction of what was an ancient port. Dwarka is mentioned in the copper inscription dated 574 of Simhaditya, the Maitraka dynasty minister of Vallabhi. He was the son of Varahdas, the king of Dwarka. The nearby Bet Dwarka island is a religious pilgrimage site and an important archaeological site of the Late Harappan period, with one thermoluminescence date of 1570.

The Greek writer of the Periplus of the Erythraean Sea referred to a place called Baraca, which has been interpreted as present-day Dwarka. A reference made in Ptolemy’s Geography identified Barake as an island in the Gulf of Kanthils, which has also been inferred to mean Dwarka. In 1241, Mohammad Shah invaded Dwarka and damaged the temple. In 1473 the Gujarat Sultan Mahmud Begada sacked the city and destroyed the temple of Dwarka. The Jagat Mandir or the Dwarakadhisa temple was later rebuilt. Vallabha Acharya retrieved an idol of Dwarkadhish, which was revered by Rukmini. He hid it in a stepwell, known as Savitri vav, during the Muslim invasion, before moving it to Ladva village. In 1551, when Turk Aziz invaded Dwarka, the idol was shifted to the island of Bet Dwarka. Dwarka, along with the Okhamandal region, was under the rule of Gaekwad of Baroda state during the Indian rebellion of 1857. In 1861, the Dwarakadheesh Temple was renovated by Maharaja Khanderao and the British, who refurbished the shikara. Maharaja Gaikwad of Baroda added a golden pinnacle to the shikara in 1958 during a refurbishment by Shankaracharya of Dwarka. Since 1960, the temple has been maintained by the Government of India. Dwarka is one of 12 heritage cities across the country selected to develop civic infrastructure. The Sudama Setu, a bridge over the Gomti River connecting mainland Dwarka with Panchkui island was opened in 2016.

Dwarka is a temple city, given it’s ancient lineage and most visitors to the city are pilgrims, visiting the city for its most famous temple, the Dwarkadish Temple. Also known as the Jagat Mandir, the temple is styled in the Chalukya style of architecture and dedicated to Lord Krishna. The five storied main shrine is grand and marvelous in itself constructed of limestone and sand and supported by 72 pillars and an intricately carved spire that is 78.3 meters high. The spire has an exquisitely carved Shikhar or pinnacle that soars 42 m high with a flag made of 52 yards of cloth. The flag consists of the sun and moon symbols, personifying Lord Krishna’s reign over the temple as long as the sun and moon exists on this earth. There are two two gateways to the temple, the Swarg Dwar or Heaven’s Gate where pilgrims enter and the Moksha Dwar or the Liberation Door where pilgrims exit and comprises of a vestibule, sanctum and a rectangular hall with porches on its either sides. Outside the south doorway of the edifice, 56 steps lead to the banks of the Gomti river.

The 2,200-year-old architecture, is believed to be built by Vajranabha, Lord Krishna’s grandson over Hari-Griha, who constructed it over the land reclaimed from the sea by Lord Krishna. The temple’s name of Dwarakdish means Lord of Dwarka, referring to Lord Krishna. The temple showcases intricate sculptural detailing done by the ancestral dynasties that ruled the region and the black magnificent idol of Lord Krishna. There are other shrines within the temple which are devoted to Subhadra, Balarama and Revathy, Vasudeva, Rukmini and many others. Devotees are expected to take a dip in the Gomti river before proceeding into the temple through the Swarg Dwar. The eve of Janmashtmi is the most special occasion in any Krishna temple, the Dwarkadhish temple is adorned by thousands of devotees chanting prayers and rituals. The shrine is a hive of colours, voices and faith transforming itself into inner silence and sanctity. The best time to visit the temple between October to March when the weather is cooler. The Janmasthami festival which is the festival to celebrate Lord Krishna’s birth around August/September is also wonderful time to visit to take part in the festivities. The temple is open from 6 am to 1 pm and then again from 5 to 9 pm and should keep aside around 2 hours to walk around the temple and soak in the atmosphere. As with all religious places in India, there is no entry fee.

The Nageshwar Temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India and is situated on the route between Gomati Dwarka and the Bait Dwarka Island on the coast of Saurashtra in Gujarat. Also sometimes known as the Nagnath Temple, the main deity here is Lord Shiva, also known as Nageshwar Mahadev. According to the Shiva Purana, those who pray at the Nageshwar Jyotirlinga become free from all poisons, snake bites and worldly attractions. Unlike other Nageshwar Temples, the statue or the Linga here faces south. A major highlight of Nageshwar Temple is the massive 80 feet tall statue of Lord Shiva made up of stone, known as Dwarka Shila, having small chakras on it and in the shape of a three mukhi Rudraksha. The temple itself is characterised by typical Hindu architecture. The importance of Nageshwar Jyotirlinga stems from the fact that it is believed to be the first of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India. Designed on the principles of Vaastu Shastra, the temple is planned on the Sayanam or sleeping posture of the human body. On the festival of Maha Shivaratri, the Nageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple witnesses grand celebration, drawing flock of devotees from all across the globe. The temple is open from 6 pm to 12:30 pm and again between 5 to 9:30 pm every day. You can’t bring a camera inside the temple sanctum, though it is allowed inside the temple premises. If you plan on doing an offering or abhishegam which takes place when the temple is open in the mornings, please note that men have to wear dhotis which are also available in the temple free of cost while women have to wear sarees.

A small but important shrine dedicated to Krishna’s beloved consort, Rukmani Devi, the Rukmani Temple is not as majestic or gigantic as the Dwarakdeesh temple, but is an architectural masterpiece in itself. The temple is said to be 2,500 years old but in its present form it is inferred to belong to the 12th century. It is a richly carved temple decorated with sculptures of gods and goddesses on the exterior with the sanctum housing the main image of Rukmini. Carved naratharas (human figures) and carved gajatharas (elephants) are depicted in panels at the base of the tower. There is an interesting legend to justify separate dwelling temples, far away from each other, for Rukmini and her husband Krishna. It is said that at the request of sage Durvasa, who was renowned for his short temper and bestowing curses Krishna and Rukmini pulled a chariot taking sage Durvasa to their house for dinner. On the way, when Rukmini asked for water to quench her thirst, Krishna drew Ganges water, by prodding the ground with his toe, for her to drink. Rukmini quenched her thirst with the Ganges water. But Durvasa felt insulted as Rukmini did not have the courtesy to offer him water to drink. He, therefore, cursed her that she would live separately from her husband.

The Bhadkeshwar Mahadev Mandir, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is an ancient temple dating back some 5000 years old, which was built around a self-manifested Shivaling found in the Arabian Sea. The temple gets submerged in the sea every year during the monsoons, which devotees believe to be nature’s way of performing the religious process of Abhishekam. The presiding deity is known as Chandra-Moulishwar Shiva and the temple houses more than twelve hundred Shalgramshilas, thirteen hundred Shiva Lingas, and metal statuette forms of seventy-five Shankaracharyas. Shalgramshilas are priceless holy gemstones that are believed to be the earthly manifestations of Lord Vishnu and a single touch of a Shalgramshila is said to wipe away all mortal sins.

If the holy scriptures are to be believed, the Gomti River is none other than the Ganges, descended directly from the heavens. The Ghat is located at the mouth of River Gomati and you have go down a flight of 56 steps from the Dwarkadheesh temple’s Swarga Dwar in order to reach the ghat. According to myths the river Gomati is the daughter of Sage Vashishtha and her waters are powerful enough to purge one’s mortal sins. Thus pilgrims make it a point to bathe in River Gomti and they usually take their holy dip into the Gomati Kund, the point of confluence of River Gomti and the sea. Gomti Kund is located very close to the Gomati Sangam Ghat of Dwarka. Also, River Gomti is believed to be the ‘descending Ganges’, a river that descends straight down from heaven which is why it is a river that can wash away every sin as per Hindu mythology. You can also take a boat trip down the river which offers panoramic views of the holy city of Dwarka.

Named after the Lord Krishna’s childhood friend, Sudama, the Sudama Setu Bridge is a stunning suspension bridge built for pedestrians to cross the Gomti river. It connects the ancient Jagat Temple on mainland Dwarka to the sacred Panchad or Panchkui Tirth teerth on the island southeast to Dwarka and is associated with the legendary Pandava brothers. Other than mythology, the bridge is also famous for a breathtaking view of the river and the Arabian Sea. The bridge is open from 7 am to 1 pm and then again between 4 to 7:30 pm.

Situated around 30 km from the main town of Dwarka, Beyt Island, also called Bet Dwarka or Shankodhar, is a small island which was the main port in the region before the development of Okha. Located at the mouth of the Gulf of Kutch, the island is enclosed by a few temples, white sand beaches and coral reefs. Among the several activities available at the beach include dolphin spotting, marine excursions, beach camping and picnics. The name comes from ‘bet’ or ‘beyt’ which in Gujrati means a land surrounded by water on all sides. The island is also called Shankodhar because some people believed that the island is ‘shankh’ or conch shaped. And it is also a source of conch shells. The island also holds a significant mythological and religious significance as it is believed to be the home of Lord Krishna when he was the king of Dwarka. It was here where Lord Krishna exchanged the bags of rice with his friend Sudama – as the story goes. Therefore, this place is also visited by several devotees for a pilgrimage as well.

Popular among both tourists and locals, Dwarka beach and the lighthouse at the edge of the beach are the go-to places in the evenings. The beach is located quite close to the main temples in town and the lighthouse tower, which is 43m in height was panoramic views of the sunset.

Pordbandar
Best known as the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, Porbandar was the former capital of the Porbandar princely state. Onshore explorations in and around Porbandar suggests the remains of a late Harappan settlement dating back to the 16th to 14th centuries BC. The discovery of ancient jetties along the Porbandar creek signifies the importance of Porbandar as an active center of maritime activities in the past. Indian theology also views Porbandar as the birthplace of Sudama, the friend Krishna. For this reason, it is also referred to as Sudaamapuri or Sudamapuri. Porbandar was the seat of the eponymous princely state in British India. In ancient times Porbandar was known to be Pao Bandar, due to its bread factories that used to export Pao ruti to Arab nations across Arabian sea. Colloquial changes in language results in name change to Pore Bandar. Later the state belonged to the Jethwa clan of Rajputs and had been established in the area since at least the mid-16th century. The state was subordinate to the Mughal governor of Gujarat until being overrun by the Marathas in the latter half of the 18th century. After, they came under the authority of the Gaekwad court at Baroda and eventually of the Peshwa. In common with the other states of Kathiawar, the state first came into the ambit of British influence in 1807, when the East India Company guaranteed security in the area in lieu of a fixed annual tribute to be paid to the Peshwa and the Gaekwad. In 1817, the Peshwa ceded his share to the EIC; in 1820, the Gaekwad agreed to have the IEC collect his due tributes in Kathiawar and remit the same to his treasury. Upon the Independence, the state acceded to the dominion of India and was merged with the ‘United State of Kathiawar’, and eventually came to form part of the present-day state of Gujarat. The last King of Porbandar was Natwarsinhji Bhavsinhji Maharaj.

The Kirti Mandir was built in the honour of Mahatma Gandhi and his wife Kasturba Gandhi. The ancestral house of Mahatma Gandhi is located right beside the temple and visitors can enter the ancestral home from the temple. The temple was built to mark the release of Mahatma Gandhi in 1944. The 73-year-old structure stands strong adorning the National Flag. The importance of this historic temple is such that even today political figures from all around the world often come to pay respect to the father of the nation, Mahatma Gandhi. The Maharaja of Porbandar, H.H. Maharana Shree Natavarsinhji, and Raj Ratna Shree Nanjibhai Kalidas Mehta and his wife, Sreemati Santokbehn Mehta undertook the project of building the temple. Before laying the foundation of the temple, the ancestral home was purchased from the Gandhi family and you can see the registration papers of the house, signed by Gandhi on display in the museum room of the Kirti Mandir complex. There is no entry fee for this complex which is open from 10 am to 12 noon and then again between 3 to 6 pm.

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About 2km from the town, Bharat Mandir also Known as India Temple showcases many sculptures, pictures and other artifacts about the Indian tradition. Located opposite to Nehru Planetarium in a garden, the temple houses stone carvings and brass reliefs of heroes from Hindu mythology on the pillars. Entry fee to enter the temple is INR 3 and it is open from 9 am to 12 noon and then again between 3 to 6 pm.

The Krishna Sudama Mandir of Porbandar was built by Sri Ram Devji Jethwa of the Jethwa dynasty between 1902 and 1907, and is the only temple in India dedicated to Lord Krishna’s friend Sudama. The temple’s architecture is simple yet imposing. Open from all sides, the structure has been built in white marble and boasts intricately carved pillars. The arches are beautifully decorated with finely detailed carvings and the shikhara or temple spire has been designed with detailed carvings while the black and white chequered floors are in contrast with the marble structure of the temple. The temple complex is surrounded by a well-maintained garden and houses a small stepwell and a smaller temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha. A statue of Ram Devji Jethwa, the ruler of the Jethwa dynasty, under whose guidance the temple was constructed, is also present inside the temple. It is visited by thousands of devotees, especially newly married Rajasthani Kshatriya couples to receive blessings from the presiding deity. It is said that when the temple was being constructed, special plays were staged to collect funds for its construction and donations were taken from the rich traders of Porbandar.

Dating back to as early as 550, the Gop temple which lies on the road between Porbandar and Jamnagar is a peculiar culmination of numerous faiths as well as architectural styles. It is believed to have been constructed by the rulers of the Maitraka dynasty who ruled this area between the 6th and 8th centuries. The temple, much of which is in ruins now is dedicated to Lord Shiva and has a shikhara or tower spire topped with a armalaka or circular disk. The skeleton of the temple has hints of Dravidian, Nagar, Kashmiri as well as slight influence of the Harappan style. Inside there are motifs and inscriptions related to Hinduism and also many unidentified ones.

Once the prosperous capital of Saindhava and then the Jethwa dynasty of Sourashtra back in the 12th and 13th centuries, Ghumli is now an important and preserved archaeological site. The village features a number of temples, historical gates and other structures built by the dynasties. The Navlakha temple and the Ashapura temples are a must-visit for the visitors. The Navlakha Temple, built by Jethwa rulers in the 12th century, is considered to be oldest Sun temple of Gujarat which is now in ruins. The temple is built in the Solanki style of architecture with entwining tusk of three elephants as a trade mark of temple. Close by, little easterly to Navlakha temple there are step wells called “Vikai Vav” the largest in Kathiawar and “Jetha vav”. Vikai or Vikia Vaav built by Jethwa ruler Vikiaji after whom it is named, is the oldest and one of the biggest step wells of Gujarat measuring almost 60 by 40.5 sq m. The well has numerous flights of steps leading up to it and string-coursed carvings. The entrance pavilions can still be seen standing intact at three places.

The Huzoor Palace is a grand, neoclassical structure of the early 20th century, touched with Anglican influences both in architecture and the administration. Featured with ornamental pillars and porticos, and flanked with gardens with fountains, the palace is a view to behold right at the shore of the sea. Visitors crowd in front of the palace during the Navratri festival to pay respects to the previous rulers, but are not allowed inside the palace.

The Darbargadh is an imperial fort constructed by Rana Sartanji during his regime. The whole palatial structure features authentic Rajput style of architecture. The outer walls are fortified with four giant arch gateways, and inside there are three more. One of them, called the Darbar Bari, is an ornate one with a traditional Rajasthani jharokha, supported by four elephant statues.

Also known as Willingdon Marina Beach, the Porbandar Beach is located close to the Huzur Palace and is an ideal place to sit and enjoy watching the waves and the fishing boats in the horizon. This beach is nestled between Veraval and Dwarka and is a favourite spot for morning and evening joggers.

The sandy stretch of the Chowpatty Beach is a perfect place for visitors to enjoy a lazy afternoon stroll or to sit and enjoy the blue expanse of the Arabian Sea. Flamingos, seagulls and other sea birds throng the beach throughout the day.

Located at about 15 km from Porbandar, the Barda Hills Wildlife Sanctuary is spread across the. Porbandar and Jamnagar districts. The Sanctuary exhibits great variety of fauna including varieties of butterflies, lion, chinkara, sambar, crocodile and chameleon, ratel, leopard, wolf, spotted eagle and the crested hawk eagle. It is still called as Rana Barda and Jam Barda by local people as the sanctuary was a private property of princely states of Ranavav or Porbandar and Jamnagar. The best time to visit the sanctuary is from November to March. Entry fees are INR 500 per adult and the sanctuary is open ever day from sunrise to sunset.

Junagadh
Literally translated into “Old Fort”, Junagadh is the 7th largest city in the state. A different etymology derives the name from “Yonagadh” or “City of the Yona or the Greeks”, referring to the ancient inhabitants of the city under the Indo-Greek Kingdom. It is also known as “Sorath”, the name of the princely state of Junagadh. After a brief struggle between India and Pakistan, Junagadh joined India on 9 November 1947. It was a part of Saurashtra state and later Bombay state. In 1960, in consequence of the Maha Gujarat movement, it became part of the newly formed Gujarat state.

An early structure, Uparkot Fort, is located on a plateau in the middle of town. It was originally built in 319 BC during the Mauryan dynasty by Chandragupta. The fort remained in use until the 6th century, when it was abandoned for about 300 years, then rediscovered by the Chudasama ruler Graharipu in 976. The fort was subsequently besieged 16 times over an 1000-year period. One unsuccessful siege lasted twelve years. Within 2 km of Uparkot Fort is an inscription with fourteen Edicts of Ashoka on a large boulder. The Maitraka dynasty ruled Gujarat from 475 to 767. The early history of the Chudasama dynasty, which ruled Saurashtra from Junagadh, is almost lost. The bardic legends differ very much in the names, order, and numbers of early rulers; so they are not considered reliable. According to tradition, the dynasty is said to have been founded in the late 9th century by Chudachandra. Subsequent rulers were in conflict with the Chaulukya rulers and Saurashtra was briefly governed by Chaulukya governors during this period. These events are recorded in contemporary and later Jain chronicles. After the end of the rule of the Chaulukyas and their successors, the Vaghela dynasty, in Gujarat, the Chudasamas ruled independently, or as vassals of successor states, the Delhi Sultanate and the Gujarat Sultanate. The last king of the dynasty, Mandalika III, was defeated, and forcibly converted to Islam, in 1472 by Gujarat Sultan Mahmud Begada, who annexed the state and changed the name of Junagadh to Mustafabad and built the fortifications around the town and the mosque in Uparkot Fort. After the accession of Sultan Muzafar, and indeed during the latter part of Sultan Mahmud’s reign, the seat of government was removed from Junagadh to Diu owing to the importance of that island as a naval station and to check the ravages of the Portuguese. When the Portuguese took over the ports of Diu and Daman in the 16th century, a fifteen-foot cannon, made in Egypt in 1531, was abandoned by a Turkish admiral opposing the Portuguese forces at Diu, which is now at Uparkot Fort. In his time, Akbar conquered Gujarat, although Sorath yet remained independent under the Ghori rule. Around 1521-22, Junagadh became the seat of the imperial faujdars or garrison commanders of Sorath in subordination to the imperial viceroy at Ahmedabad. The last of the faujdars was Sherkhan Babi, who became independent and assumed the title of Nawab Bahadur Khan in 1730 after the invasion by the Maratha Gaekwad dynasty and founded the Babi dynasty.

In 1807, Junagadh State became a British protectorate, but the Saurashtra area was never directly administered by the British, who instead divided the territory into more than one hundred princely states, which remained in existence until 1947. The present old-town, developed during the 19th and 20th centuries, constituted one of those princely states. During the period just before the independence and partition of India and Pakistan in 1947, the 562 princely states that had existed outside British India, but under British suzerainty, were given the choice of acceding to either India or Pakistan, or to remaining apart. The Nawab of Junagadh, which, although located at the south-western end of Gujarat, had no common border with Pakistan, but chose to accede to Pakistan, arguing that Junagadh could access Pakistan by sea. India asserted that Junagadh was not contiguous to Pakistan and, believing that if Junagadh was permitted to accede to Pakistan communal tension already simmering in Gujarat would worsen, refused to accept the nawab’s accession to Pakistan. The Indian government pointed out that the state was 96% Hindu, and called for a plebiscite to decide the question of accession. On 26 October, the nawab and his family fled to Pakistan following clashes between Junagadhi and Indian troops. On 7 November, Junagadh’s court, facing collapse, invited the government of India to take over the state’s administration. Based on a plebiscite conducted in February 1948, which went almost unanimously in favour of accession to India, Junagadh became a part of the Indian state of Saurashtra until 1 November 1956, when Saurashtra became part of Bombay state and then a part of the Gujarat state in 1960 when the state was formed on linguistic lines.

Over 2300 years old, with walls up to 20m high in some places and with a 300 ft. deep moat inside the walls which reportedly used to be inhabited by crocodiles for the fort’s protection, the Uperkot Fort and a town was established at the foothills of Girnar hill during reign of the Maurya Empire and continued to be used during Gupta period, but it lost its importance when the capital of Saurashtra region was moved from Junagadh to Vallabhi by the Maitrakas. The Chudasamas settled around Junagadh from 875 according to bards when they acquired Vamansthali or Vanthli from the Chavda ruler. According to legends, after several Chudasamas of Vamansthali had ruled, a woodcutter one day managed to cut his way through the forest and came to a place where stone walls and a gate existed. Nearby sat a holy man in contemplation, and on being asked by the woodcutter the name of the place and its history, he replied that its name was “Juna” or old. The woodcutter returned by the way he had come to Vamansthali, and reported his discovery to the Chudasama ruler, who ordered the forest to be cleared away. This being done, the fort came into sight. But there was none who knew its history, or who could tell more than the holy man had told the woodcutter. So the place became known as “Junagadh” for want of a better title. If this story is to be believed, either Graharipu rediscovered an ancient stronghold or else after he had built the fort, it was abandoned and afterwards found again by a later ruler Navaghana who transferred Chudasama capital from Vamansthali to Junagadh. Neelam and Manek, forged in Cairo and brought by the Turks are the two major tourist attractions in the fort. Also make sure to see the stepwells and caves in the fort complex.

Located in the Uperkot Fort, the Jama Masjid is a yellow sandstone mosque boasting of a spacious courtyard covered in white marble and a huge ablution tank in the premises. The inner walls have intricate carvings and the central dome is carved in the shape of a lotus flower.

Adi-kadi Vav and Navghan Kuwo and two step wells inside the Uperkot Fort. Usually wells are dug into the ground through layers of soli, stones, etc. and the construction is like that done above the ground. But these two stepwells are different. Unlike most wells, this well isn’t dug. It is carved out of the stone in the ground. Technically the entire structure is carved out of a single stone!

Also known as Mausoleum of Bahaduddnbhai Hasainbhai, the Mohabbat Maqbara is a mausoleum built in the late 19th century, housing the tombs of Mohabbat khanji in the Mohabbat Maqabra and tomb of Bahaduddin Hasainbhai in the Bahaduddinhassainbhai Maqabra. This monument is a unique example of Indo-Islamic and Gothic architecture with finely designed arches, elaborate stone carvings on the walls and windows, silver-decorated portals, the winding staircases encircling its four tall minarters, the old step-well in the grounds and its onion shaped dome. The Jama Masjid is also located nearby.

The Buddhist Caves aren’t exactly caves but rooms carved out of stones and were used as monk’s headquarters. The oldest, the Khapara Kodia caves belong to 3rd and 4th centuries and are plainest of all cave groups. They were carved into living rock during the reign of Emperor Ashoka and are considered the earliest monastic settlement in the area. Another set of caves, the Baba Pyara caves lie close to the Modhimath, which has four caves in its northern group.

Located 5 km east of Junagadh town, the Girnar hills are a collection of hills, whose origins can be traced back to the Vedas. It has been considered to be a religious place even during the Mohan-jo-Daro period. Flocked by Hindu and Jain pilgrims alike, this place is also nature’s paradise located in midst of the Gir Forest. Girnar offers its visitors some good trekking avenues, religious spots and pre-historic sites and mountains. Duing the 11th day of the Hindu calendar month of Kartik, Hindus in large numbers come to the mountain range for the Girnar Parikrama, a massive annual event which starts and ends at the Bhavanat Temple

The Girnar Parikrama is a massive annual event for Hindus. More than ten lakh pilgrims come to Girnar to carry out the procession. The procession of sadhus and pilgrims begins and ends, at the Bhavanat Temple. This festival takes place on the This procession is the backbone of the economy of Junagarh.

There is a group of Jain temples in Girnar near Junagadh, which are all unique yet similar in architecture and style. The Neminath Temple, built from 1128 to 1159, is one of the main attractions. The temple complex has quadrangle courtyards, corridors and other shrines as well, with pillars adorned with intricate carvings of Jain Tirthankars. The idol of Bhagwan Neminatha here is thought to be the oldest one in the world, approximately 84,785 years old. Innumerable monks come here to attain Moksha and for this reason Girnar is said to be an important religious place for the Jains.

Located on the top of the Girnar Mountain, the Dattatreya Temple is revered Hindu temple dedicated to the holy trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva collectively known as Dattatreya or Datta. However, the temple can only be reached by scaling the mountain height on foot which is a rather difficult trek.

Situated on the top of the Girnar Hill in Junagadh, Gujarat, Goddess Ambe Temple or Ambe Mata Temple is a revered Hindu temple and an important pilgrimage site for the Hindus. Dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Ambe Ma, the shrine is mostly visited by newly wed couples. The temple also provides a picturesque view of the town below.

The Jatashankar Mahadev Temple is a Hindu temple situated on the rear side of the Girnar mountain and is enshrined by Lord Shiva in the form of his shivalinga which is naturally bathed by a stream flowing along and water falling on the idol itself. The place is also the origin of river Sonrekh and is covered in ethereal beauty.

At the base of Ashwatthama Hill in the Girnar mountain range, is a sacred Hindu temple called Shri Damodar Haries Temple alongside a holy water pond called Damodar Kund. The temple is enshrined by Lord Krishna and is surrounded by natural beauty lush greenery. The premises also have a gaushala to tend to cows. The Damodar Kund Water Reserve is considered holy by the Hindus with regard to certain myths and legends. The ghat at the lake is used to cremate dead bodies and the water is believed to have properties to dissolve bones. The lake also has a temple and many poojas are performed at the site.

The Ashok Shilalekh is large rock inscription located around 3 kms from the Girnar Mountain. The massive boulder is 7 metres in circumference and 10 metres in height and makes a popular tourist site. The rock has 14 inscriptions carved in iron pen from the time of King Ashoka written in Brahmi script of Pali language.

Dataar Hills is a holy site located southwest of the Girnar range which is popular for housing the shrine of Jamiyal Shah Datar at the top of the mountain peak. The shrine is worshipped by Hindus and Muslims alike and also offers a spectacular panoramic view of the town below. The Urs festival is celebrated with great pomp and show here.

The Gir National Park, also known as Sasan Gir, is the only remaining home for the Asiatic lions other than Africa where the lions can be seen roaming free in the wild. This national park is situated approximately 65 kms south east of Junagadh. In 1965, the Indian government notified the large geographical extent of Sasan Gir as wildlife sanctuary to conserve the Asiatic Lion. It covers total area of 1412 sq km of which 258 km forms the core area of the National Park. Indiscriminate hunting by the people of Junagarh led to their decrease in population drastically, while they were completely wiped out from the other parts of Asia. From a population of approximately 20 lions in 1913, the lion population has risen to a comfortable 523 according to the 2015 census. Because the entire forest area is dry and decisous, providing the best habitat for the Asiatic Lion, as of 2015, there were 106 male, 201 female and 213 sub-adult lions in the wilderness of the national park. The park also is home to about 2375 differnet species of fauna here with 38 species of mammals, over 300 species of birds, 37 species of reptiles and over 2000 species of insects. There are also more than 300 leopards and the park is known for the Chowsingha – the world’s only four horned antelope. The sanctuary has been declared an important bird area by the Indian Bird Conservation Network and is a habitat of raptors like the critically endangered white-backed and long-billed vultures. Kamleshwar, a large reservoir in the sanctuary is the best spot where Marsh Crocodile can be seen in large numbers. The Devaliya Safari Park is an enclosed area of the sanctuary that offers a good opportunity for visitors to experience the rustic beauty and wilderness of the area. The safari tour is conducted in a mini bus that takes visitors to another cross section of the Gir. The park is closed from 16 June to 15 October every year with the months between December and March being the best months to visit. Although it is very hot in April and May, these are the best months for wildlife viewing and photography.

Located in the premises of Gir Forest National Park, Tulsi Shyam Springs is a group of three hot sulphur streams alongside a Lord Vishnu Temple. The first is warm, second is slightly hot and the third stream is boiling hot; it is believed to have curative powers. It is believed a dip in the springs can cure one of skin diseases.

The former residencial palace of the rulers of Junagadh was later converted into the magnificent Darbar Hall Museum exhibiting the splendid possessions of the 19th century Nawabs. The museum has several galleries exuding opulence and grandeur, decked with palatial rooms, goods, weapons, palanquins, pictures, photographs and artefacts. Open from 10 am to 1:15 pm and then again from 2:45 to 6 pm, the museum is closed on Wednesdays and the second and fourth Saturday of the month. Entry fee for Indians is INR 5 and for foreigners, it is INR 50.

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Madhavpur beach is a stunning beach lined with gorgeous coconut trees and boasting of an ethereal landscape. The other side of the beach, across the road has verdant green grass and vegetation which makes the area look even more pleasant. The beach is not considered ideal for swimming due to high tides; and is home to thousands of turtles.

The Ahmedpur Mandvi Beach is a 6 kms long pristine coastline kissed by the sparkling waters of the Arabian Sea situated on the junction of Diu and Gujarat and dotted with windmills and boasting of soft white sand. The beach is ideal of swimming, water sports and dolphin spotting and is visited by a large number of tourists throughout the year. The beach provides some stunning views of the Arabian Sea with a number of beautiful temples and palaces that can be visited as well as a fishing village surrounding it.

The famous Somnath temple located about 90 km southwest of Junagadh is believed to be the first among the twelve jyotirlinga shrines of Lord Shiva, which according to tradition, Shiva is believed to have appeared as a fiery column of light. The jyotirlingas are taken as the supreme, undivided reality out of which Shiva partly appears. Each of the 12 jyotirlinga sites take the name of a different manifestation of Shiva and in all these holy places, the primary image is a lingam representing the beginning-less and endless stambha or pillar, symbolizing the infinite nature of Shiva. Somnath has been a pilgrimage site from ancient times on account of it being a triveni sangam or the confluence of three rivers: Kapila, Hiran and the mythical Sarasvati. Soma, the Moon god, is believed to have lost his lustre due to a curse, and he bathed in the Sarasvati River at this site to regain it. The name of the town Prabhas, meaning lustre, as well as the alternative names Someshvar or the “Lord of the Moon” and Somnath or the Moon God” arise from this tradition.

The fabulous wealth of the temple attracted various invaders who attacked and plundered it ruthlessly. However, every invasion was followed by its reconstruction which restored it to its former glory. The present temple was reconstructed in the Chaulukya style of Hindu temple architecture and completed in May 1951. According to popular tradition, the first Shiva temple at Somnath is believed to have been built at some unknown time in the past. In 1024, during the reign of Bhima I, the prominent Turkic Muslim ruler Mahmud of Ghazni raided Gujarat, plundering the Somnath temple and breaking its jyotirlinga and taking away a booty of 20 million dinars. During its 1299 invasion of Gujarat, Alauddin Khalji’s army, defeated the Vaghela king Karna, and sacked the Somnath temple. As late as the 14th century, Gujarati Muslim pilgrims were noted by Amir Khusrow to stop at the temple to pay their respects before departing for the Hajj pilgrimage. In 1395, the temple was destroyed for the third time by Zafar Khan, the founder of Gujarat Sultanate and in 1451, was desecrated by Mahmud Begada, the Sultan of Gujarat. By 1665, the temple, one of many, was ordered to be destroyed by Mughal emperor Aurangzeb and in 1702, he ordered that if Hindus revived worship there, it should be demolished completely.

The temple’s Shikhar, or main spire, is 15 metres in height, and it has an 8.2-metre tall flag pole at the top. The temple is situated at such a place that there is no land in a straight line between the Somnath seashore until Antarctica as per an inscription in Sanskrit is found on the Baṇastambha or arrow pillar erected on the sea-protection wall. The Baṇastambha mentions that it stands at a point on the Indian landmass that is the first point on land in the north to the South Pole at that particular longitude.

Bhavnagar
The town of Bhavnagar was founded in 1724 by Bhavsinhji Gohil and was the capital of the Bhavnagar State, which was a Princely state before it was merged into the Indian Union in 1948. The world’s largest ship-breaking yard, Alang located 50 km south of Bhavnagar.

The Gohil Rajputs of the Suryavanshi clan moved to the Gujarat coast in 1260 after facing severe competition in Marwar and established three capitals – Sejakpur, now Ranpur which was founded in 1194, Umrala, and Sihor. After a war in 1722-1723 on Sihor, Maharajah Bhavsinhji Gohil realised the reason for repeated attack was the location of Sihor and so in 1723, he established a new capital near Vadva village, 20 km away from Sihor, and named it Bhavnagar after himself. In 1807, Bhavnagar State became a British protectorate. The old town of Bhavnagar, a fortified town remained a major port for almost two centuries, trading commodities with Mozambique, Zanzibar, Singapore and the Persian Gulf. Bhavnagar benefited from the revenue that was brought in from maritime trade, which was monopolized by Surat and Cambay. Whilst Bhavsinhji was in power, Bhavnagar grew from a small chieftainship to a considerably important state. During the late 19th century, the Bhavnagar State Railway was constructed making Bhavnagar the first state that was able to construct its railway system without any aid from the central government. The former princely state of Bhavnagar was also known as Gohilwad or the “Land of the Gohils” which was the clan of the ruling family. Until Indian independence, Bhavnagar was an independent state ruled by the Rajput Gohil family. The last ruling Maharajah of Bhavnagar, Krishnakumar Sinhji handed over the administration of his state to to India in 1948. It is said the Bhavnagar state was the first princely kingdom to give up their state to join the Indian Union.

The Nilambag Palace is an ancient mansion initiated by the king of Bhavnagar of the time, Maharaja Saheb Takhatsinhji. He channelled the German architect Simms towards its construction in 1879. This palace which has an Anglo-Indian architectural style, was revamped as a heritage hotel in 1984. It is a part of the local heritage of the land as it has colonial historical significance.

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The Gandhi Smriti stands in the centre of the city and commemorates the life and service of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. Constructed in 1955 and attached to a tower clock, the you can find rare photographs of Gandhi and a vast collection of books and memorabilia that Gandhi used at the Gandhi Museum. On the ground floor, you can find the oldest oldest library in the city, the Barton Library which has a huge collection of books as well as a range of archaeological remains of the surrounding areas. The Gandhi Smriti and the the Barton Library are closed on Sundays and the second and fourth Saturdays of the month and are open on other days from 9 am to 1 pm and then again between 2 to 6 pm. Entry fees are INR 3 per person.

Situated along the Takteshwar Tarheti Road, the Takhteshwar Temple is a hilltop temple and one of the oldest recorded holy sites in Gujarat. Established in 1893, the temple is named after its founder, Maharaja Takhatsinghji, the king of the time. The pathway to the temple is more a trek laid along a marble staircase that overlooks a breathtaking view of the lush green view that saddles the temple. This Shaivite temple has an idol of Lord Shiva, besides a smaller Nandi statue housed on a massive courtyard held by eighteen elaborately designed pillars. The temple attracts numerous devotees especially during Navratri. The temple is open from 5:30 am to 7 pm every day.

Bracketing the Victoria Park in Bor Talav, the Gaurishankar Lake is also known as the Bhavnagar Nagar. Merging along with its sister-stream, Balvatika, the Gaurishankar Lake was first created as a public reservoir in 1872. Alongside the Pil Garden, a dedicated space for children, the lake also has a Shiva temple. The lake is also a good place to view the sunset. On the edges of the lake, is a 2-sq-km protected forest known as Victoria Park. Here, one can spot vibrant flora, various species of birds and butterflies and a large fox population. It is one of the oldest human-made forests in India, made in 1888 by Mr Proctor Sins for Maharaja Takhtasinhji of Bhavnagar. The lake and park are open from 6 to 9 am and then again from 4 to 7 pm and the entry fee to the park is INR 20.

The Blackbuck National Park at Velavadar is located about 42 km north of Bhavnagar and was established in 1976 in the Bhal region. Hugging the coast of the Gulf of Khambhat on the south, it is spread over an area of 34.08 sq km, which was primarily a “vidi” or grassland of the Maharaja of Bhavnagar for hunting the blackbucks with his famous hunting cheetahs. On the northern side, it is surrounded by wastelands and agriculture fields. The national park has been classified as 4B Gujarat-Rajwada biotic province of semi-arid bio-geographical zone. Flat land, dry grasses and herds of antelope have always attracted visitors to this park which has a grassland ecosystem. Successful conservation programs for the blackbuck, wolf and lesser florican, a type of bustard which is considered an edemic Indian species, currently endangered, are ongoing.

A small town located about 50 km southwest of Bhavnagar, Palitana is noted as a popular pilgrimage spot for people of the Jain faith. This town follows strict vegetarianism which makes it the first town in the world to abide by the vegetarian diet legally. So the selling of any animal product is or activity which involve the killing of animals is illegal here. The town of Palitana has over 900 temples of which Shatrunjaya Hill which translates to the “Victory Ground” receives Jain pilgrims in large numbers because this is considered to be the most pious for them. This hill alone has more than 3000 temples. The Jain temples in Palitana worship Jain Tirthankars, and the foremost temple is dedicated to the first Tirthankara, Rishabhanatha, also known as Rishabhadeva. The temples on the Shatrunjaya Hills have been constructed by generations for almost 900 years. The first temple is believed to have been built in the 11th century. If you begin at the foot of the hill and go to the peak, the way to the temples have been carved out of more than 3,800 stone steps.

The temples flaunt exquisite craftsmanship with the intricate marble carving and the creative motifs. All the temples have been clubbed under nine different temple complexes or tunks; each of these housing several smaller temples which have been built around the central temple. The Chaumukh Temple is among the most important of all the temples here, characterised with the holy deity of Adinath who has four-faces, carved on marble and placed in a temple which is open on all sides. The architecture of the Chaumukh temple, built at the beginning of the 17th century, is unique and inspired by the five sacred hills worshipped by the followers of Jainism. The Adishwar temple is an architectural marvel with its beautifully carved pillars and roofs. Make sure you check out the brilliant dragon-shaped carving inside. There is also a Muslim shrine nearby, Angar Pir, which is visited by couples who are facing difficulties in getting pregnant.

There is no entrance fee to visit the temples, however, for those who can’t climb the steps, you can use a carriage or slig chair, called Doli which is chargeable. It will normally cost INR 2500 for two people for a doli without chairs and INR 500 for a doli with chairs for four people. During the peak season, the rates might often go up, however, in the offseason, it might be slashed to half.

The next post, the last post about this state, will be about the fascinating region of Kutch.

Travel Bucket List – India: Gujarat Part 4

In this post we will visit the northern part of Gujarat. This region comprises of the districts of Gandhinagar, Banaskantha, Sabarkantha, Aravalli, Mehsana, and Patan. The diary industry dominates this part of the state. An interesting trivia about this part of the state is that the dialects of the language Gujarati differ not only from each other in the region but from dialects in the other parts of the state with minor differences. Water scarcity is also a big issue in this part of the state which share a border with Rajasthan. The water table here drops by as much as six meters each year which is a huge cause of concern for the people.

Gandhinagar
Gujarat’s planned capital Gandhinagar is located on the west bank of the Sabarmati river, about 23 km north of it’s biggest city of Ahmedabad and on the industrial corridor between India’s political and financial capitals of New Delhi and Mumbai. In a determination to make Gandhinagar a purely Indian enterprise, because this state was the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, the planning for the new capital was done by H.K. Mewada who apprenticed with Le Corbusier and his assistant Prakash M Apte. The capital was formed on March 16, 1960 after the partition of the Bombay Presidency into Maharashtra and Gujarat.

One of the biggest temples in India, the Akshardham Temple is an architectural masterpiece dedicated to Lord Swaminarayan and builts by the BAPS Swaminarayan Sanstha. The 10 storied temple with its 97 sculpted pillars is situated in the centre of a 23-acre complex and was built using 6,000 tonnes of pink sandstones from Rajasthan which took over 13 years to build with the temple being innagurated on 30 October 1992. The temple complex also houses an herbal garden, a lake and a waterfall.

The principal structure in the complex is the Akshardham Mandir, which is 108 feet high, 131 feet wide and 240 feet long. The temple is held in place by 97 intricately carved pillars and is embellished with 17 ornamental domes. In addition, there are eight balconies, 220 stone beams and 264 sculpted figures. Because the temple is built in accordance to Vedic architectural principals, no steel or iron has been used anywhere in its construction. The temple’s central chamber houses a seven-foot-tall sacred image of Swaminarayan, who is worshipped by followers and is visited by around two million devotees each year.

Spanning over more than 40,000 sq ft, the Trimandir temple which means three temples celebrates Jainism, Shaivism and Vaishnavism under one roof. The entire temple is surrounded by a lush green garden, classic wooden benches and a beautiful towering fountain. The premises of the temple also include an informative museum and a mini-theatre that plays shows about the history of these cultures. The temple is open from 5:30 am to 9:30 pm daily and has no entry fee.

Built over 2, 000 years ago, the Mahudi Jain temple houses the infamous idol of Ghantakarna Mahavir Dev, which is believed to possess miraculous powers. Thousands of devotees, Jain and otherwise, come here to pray to this idol and seek the blessings of the lord. Once visitors make a wish, they climb 30 feet to ring a bell to have their desires fulfilled. There is no entry fee to this temple which is open 24/7.

Boasting of a unique blend of Hindu and Mughal architecture, Rani Roopmati’s mosque is an architectural gem of Gujarat. Built in the early 1400s, the mosque is dedicated to Rani Roopmati, the Hindu wife of the Sultan of Ahmedabad. The ostentatious pillars, intricately carved walls and the ornate three-dimensional decorations are sure to leave you awestruck. The mosque is open from 9 am to 8 pm daily and has no entry fee.

Built to mitigate a water crisis in and around the Adalaj village, the Adalaj Stepwell is located at a distance of 3-4 kilometres to the south-west of Gandhinagar. The stepwell was built in 1498 and is one of the many step wells built in India to provide access to groundwater. Walk into the stepwell and be amazed at the sudden yet soothing drop in temperature. When the stepwell was built, the villagers would fill water every morning and offer prayers to the deities exquisitely carved into the walls. The place also served as a venue to socialise and celebrate local festivals.

The ceiling of the step well has an opening which allows the entry of light and air into the premises of the octagonal structure. However, the construction is such that direct sunlight does not touch the steps or landings except for a brief period at noon. This allows the temperature inside the well to be around six degrees cooler than the outside. Another remarkable feature of the Adalaj step well is that out of all the step wells in Gujarat, it is the only one with three entrance stairs. These stairs meet at the first storey which has an octagonal opening on top. The best time to visit the stepwell is between October to March as the well is not full of water and visitors can explore most the floors of the stepwell. There is no entry fee and the stepwell is open from 9 am to 5 pm every day.

Set behind the Sabarmati river and popular for its Bandhani Sarees, the Craftsman Village in Gandhinagar is visited by hundreds of tourists and shoppers every day. Sarees and dresses are hand printed and decorated with wooden printing blocks in vivacious colours. The cloths available here are carefully worked on by skilled craftsman and are quite economical too.

Puneet Van whose name literally translates to “Holy forest” in Gujarati, is a botanical garden that has been carefully named. The uniqueness of this garden is that it houses over 3,500 trees and plants, and they are all chosen and arranged in accordance with Hindu mythology and astrological significance. The garden is divided into 4 astrological divisions and the plants are named after planets, stars and the zodiacs. The garden is open from 8-11 am and then again from 5-7:30 pm daily and has no entry fee.

Resting on the banks of River Sabarmati is a 400-hectare unique gem, the Indroda Dinosaur and Fossil Park. Not only is this park the second largest dinosaur-egg hatchery in the world, but it also houses skeletons of gigantic mammals like the blue whale. The premises of the park include a vast botanical garden, an amphitheatre and an interpretation centre equipped with full camping facility. Open from 7 am to 7 pm daily, the entry fees for children between the ages of 5-12 is INR 10, for all others is INR 20. For students in school groups and differently abled persons, the fees is INR 5 and children below the age of 5 enter free.

Patan
The capital of Gujarat in medieval times, Patan today is the administrative seat of district bearing its name and has many Hindu and Jain temples as well as few mosques, dargahs and rojas. This historical city is located on the banks of the Saraswati river, the remains of the ancient river of the same name which existed during the times of the vedas.

Patan was established by the Chavda ruler Vanaraja in 8th century as “Anahilapataka”. Between the 10th-13th century, the city served as the capital of the Chaulukyas, who supplanted the Chavdas. It is estimated that Anhilwara, the ancient city upon which today’s Patan is built on was the tenth-largest city in the world in the year 1000, with a population of approximately 100,000. The city was sacked between 1200 -1210 by Qutb-ud-din Aybak and destroyed by Allauddin Khilji in 1298. Between 1304 – 1411, Patan was the Suba headquarter of Delhi Sultanate and then the capital city of the Gujarat Sultanate after the collapse of the Delhi Sultanate at the end of the 14th century. A new fort was built, a large portion of which is still intact. In 1411, Sultan Ahmed Shah moved the capital to Ahmedabad. Patan was part of the Baroda state from the mid-18th century until India’s independence in 1947, when Baroda became part of Bombay state, which in 1960 was separated into Gujarat and Maharashtra. Today Patan is famous throughout the world for its exquisite Patola sarees which is included in every Gujarati bride’s trousseau.

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Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014, Rani ki Vav or Queen’s Stepwell is a stepwell constructed during the Chaulukya dynasty when the Solanki’s ruled Patan. It is a richly sculptured monument, designed in the shape of an inverted temple and divided into seven levels and was built by Queen Udaymati in memory of her husband, Bhima I in 1603. It was one of the largest and the most sumptuous structures of its type, however it became silted up and much of it is not visible, except for some rows of sculptured panels in the circular part of the well. Among its ruins one pillar still stands which is proof of the elegance of its design and an excellent example of this period. A part of the west well is extant from which it appears that the wall had been built of brick and faced with stone. From this wall project vertical bracket in pairs, this supported the galleries of the well shaft proper. This bracketing is arranged in tiers and is richly carved. There is a small gate below the last step of the step well which has a 30 km tunnel, which has now been blocked by stones and mud, which leads to the town of Sidhpur near Patan. It was used as an escape gateway for king who built the step well in the times of defeat. This stepwell is the oldest and the deepest among the 120 other stepwell in Gujarat. The Vav consists of more than 800 elaborate sculptures among seven galleries. The central theme of the stepwell is the Dasavataras, or the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu, including Lord Buddha. At the water level you can see a carving of Sheshashayi-Vishnu, where Vishnu is depicted reclining on the thousand-hooded serpent Shesha. Today you can see its image in the new INR 100 note issued by the the Reserve Bank of India. Rani ki Vav is open from 8 am to 6 pm and visitors will need between one to two hours to explore the stepwell. The entry fee for Indians is INR 5 and for foreigners, it is around INR 100 per person.

A part of the erstwhile Solanki rule in Gujarat, the famous and beautiful Sun Temple is located in the village of Modhera, which lies around 35 km south of Patan. Dedicated to the solar diety of Surya or the Sun, the temple stands on the banks of the river Pushpavati. It was built after around 1026-27 during the reign of Bhima I of the Chaulukya dynasty. No worship is offered now and the monument is protected is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. The temple complex has three components: Gudhamandapa, the shrine hall; Sabhamandapa, the assembly hall and Kunda, the reservoir. The halls have intricately carved exterior and pillars. The reservoir has steps to reach the bottom and numerous small shrines. There is no entry fee and the temple is open to visitors from 6 am to 6 pm on all days.

Patan is also home to as many as more than 100 temples dedicated to various gods of the Hindu pantheon, including a number of Jain temples. The most famous of these temples is the Jain temple, Mahavir Swami Derasar and is known for its beautifully engraved wooden dome. Amongst the other temples, the famous ones are the Kalika Mata temple, the Sidhwai Mata temple and the Brahmakund temple. The Hemachandra Gyan mandir stores many ancient manuscripts in Sanskrit and Prakrit. Hemachandra was a great scholar and is said to be the key man in formulating grammar for the Guajarati language.

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Situated in the north west of Patan, the Sahastralinga Talav is an artificial water storage tank constructed by the Chalukyan king Sidharaj Jai Singh in the late eleventh century. The tank gets water supply by a channel of the river Saraswati. When it was constructed, the tank would have been brimming with water, but today the tank is dry, the result of a supposed curse by a beautiful woman from the community which dug the tank. Because of this curse, the reining king died without a heir and the tank remains devoid of water ever since.

Mehsana
Mehsana was established by Mehsaji Chavda, the Rajput heir of the Chavda dynasty. He constructed the Torana or arc gate of the city and a temple dedicated to Goddess Toran in 1358. Another legend says that Mehsaji established it 1319 and the town is named after him. Gaekwads conquered Baroda and established Baroda State in 1721. They expanded their rule in north Gujarat and established Patan as its administrative headquarters. Later the headquarters was moved to Kadi and subsequently to Mehsana in 1902. The Gaekwad dynasty connected the city by Gaekwar’s Baroda State Railway. In 1904, Sayajirao Gaekwad III built Rajmahal palace in which was intended for his son, Fatehsinhrao, who died shortly afterwards in 1908. After Fatehsinh’s death, the palace was handed over to municipal authorities and is currently being used as a district court. After India’s independence in 1947, the Baroda State was merged into the Indian Union and Mehsana was merged into Bombay State as Mehsana district in 1949. It became a part of Gujarat in 1960 after the division of Bombay state into Gujarat and Maharashtra.

The Thol WildLife Sanctuary is an artificial lake near the Thol village in Kalol. The lake has a storage capacity of about 84 mcm of water and is mostly a wetland with marshes at edges along with scrub forests on either side of the embankments. The place is quite peaceful and is a perfect destination for those who want to avoid the hustle & bustle of the city life. The wildlife sanctuary shelters various species of domestic as well as the migratory birds. During winters one can see a large number of birds like flamingos, black ibis, waterfowls, grey pelicans, spotted flycatcher, graylag geese, waders, mallards etc. The best time to visit the sanctuary is between November and February and the sanctuary is open for 12 hours every day from 6 am to 6 pm.

Built in 1781 by Manajirao Gaekwad, the Bahucharaji Temple is famous for the temple of Goddess Bahucharaji. There are three temples of the Goddess in the complex, of which two are termed ‘Adyasthan’ or the the original site, and the center temple as a ‘Madhyasthan’. The first of these encloses a Varkhadi tree from where the Goddess is supposed to have appeared. The little temple was built by Maratha Fadnis and is the principal place of worship while the outer temple was built by Manajirao Gaekwad. The presiding diety of the temple, Bahuchara Mata is shown as a lady who holds a sword in her right hand, sacred texts on her left and with the abhay hasta mudra symbolising protection, peace, and the dispelling of fear with a trident on her left side. She sits on a chicken symbolising honesty. The Adyasthan contains the Sphathik Bala Yantra which is covered in gold. On every full moon day, the temple of the Goddess is visited by a large number of devotees.

Palanpur
The ancestral home to an industry of Indian diamond merchants, Palanpur in early times is said to have been called Prahladana Patan or Prahaladanapura after its founder Prahladana.Later, it was populated by Palansi Chauhan from whom it took its modern name. Others say that it was founded by Pal Parmar whose brother Jagadev founded nearby Jagana village. Jain texts mention that Prahladana, the brother of Paramara Dharavarsha of Abu, founded Prahladanapur in 1218 and built the Prahladana-vihara dedicated to Pallaviya Parshwanatha. The town was re-peopled and ruled by the Chauhans around the 13th century. At the start of the seventeenth century, the Palanpur State was taken over by the Jhalori dynasty and ruled from Jhalor in Rajasthan. The dynasty came into historical prominence during the period of instability that followed the demise of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in the early 18th century. It became a British protectorate in 1817 and after independence, the Palanpur State was dissolved and merged with the Indian Union as part of Bombay State and then became part of Gujarat following the split in 1960.

Saluting the glory of the Nawabs of Palanpur is the Kirti Stambh, a tall pillar constructed near the railway station in 1918 by Nawab Shri Taley Mohammed Khan to commemorate the gallantry of Shri Sher Mohammed Khan. Today the pillar is a symbol of the city’s glory, and provides a record of Palanpur’s evolution, with the list of the rulers of Jhalore and Palanpur being engraved on it.

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The Mithi Vav is a five-storied stepwell which is the oldest surviving monument of town. It is situated in the eastern part of the town and can be entered from the west. Based on its architectural style, it is believed to be constructed in the late medieval period but the sculptures embedded in the walls may belong to an earlier period. The sculptures include those of Lord Ganesha, Lord Shiva, Apsaras or celestial beauties, dancing figures, worshiping couples and floral or geometrical patterns. A worn out inscription found on one sculpture embedded in left wall can not read clearly but the year Samvat 1320 or 1263 AD can made out.

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Palanpur has several temples dedicated to Hinduism and Jainism. Amongst the Hindu temples are the Pataleshwar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Lakshman Tekri temple, the Mota Ramji Mandir and the Ambaji Mata Mandir. Amongst the Jain temples, mention must be made of the Motu Derasar which is also known as the Pallaviya Parshwanath Temple built by King Prahaladan which is dedicated to Parshwanath, the 23rd tirthankar and the Nanu Derasar.

The Jessore Sloth Bear Sanctuary located in the Jessore hills of Aravalli range covers an area of 180 sq. kms of dry deciduous forest. This fascinating sanctuary is located about 45 km north of Palanpur and mainly works towards the protection of the endangered sloth bears. Apart from the sloth bear, other fauna reported in the sanctuary are leopard, blue bull, wild boar, porcupine and a variety of birds. Other endangered species harboured by the sanctuary are jungle cat, civet, caracal, wolf and hyena. The sanctuary has also identified 406 species of plants. Winters are the best time to visit the sanctuary which is open daily from 7 am to 10 pm. There is no entry fee to the sanctuary.

The Lohani Nawabs who reigned over the region of Palanpur or Banaskantha was believed to have utilized the Balaram Palace as his favourite resting place. Historical records claim that the Balaram Place was constructed between the years 1922 and 1936, by the 29th king of Palanpur. The interiors of this grand palace have been inspired by the neo-classical and baroque style of architecture. The total area occupied by this palace measures about 542 square kilometres. Lush green forests and gardens surround this magnificent palace. However, currently, this palace, which was once enjoyed by Nawabs and kings as a hunting retreat has now been transformed into a resort. It is situated at the topmost point of the area in northern Gujarat.

In the next post, we will try to discover Saurashtra.

Travel Bucket List – India: Gujarat Part 3

Central Gujarat is the Gujarati heartland. All the districts in this area share a common culture with no variations in dialect. Important cities in this area include Gujarat’s commercial capital of Ahmedabad, Vadodara, it’s milk capital of Anand, Chhota Udaipur, Dahod, Kheda, Mahisagar, Panchmahal, Nadiad and Mehsana. Let’s start with Ahmedabad, the biggest city in Gujarat.

Ahmedabad
The largest city and former capital of the state, Ahmedabad was previously part of the Bombay Presidency. This city is the fifth most populous city in India and the encompassing urban agglomeration is the seventh-most populous in India. Ahmedabad is located on the banks of the Sabarmati River, 23 km from the state capital Gandhinagar, which is its twin city, but Gandhinagar does not fall under central Gujarat, instead it is counted as a north Gujarat city. Ahmedabad is the second-largest producer of cotton in India, and its stock exchange is the country’s second oldest.

The area around Ahmedabad has been inhabited since the 11th century, when it was known as Ashaval. Ahmedabad is named after the grandson of Muzzafar Shah I, Sultan Ahmed Shah who founded the Muzzaffarid dynasty in early 15th century. Ahmed Shah I laid the foundation of the city on 26 February 1411 and chose it as the new capital on 4 March 1411. During the period of Maratha Empire governance, the city became the centre of a conflict between the Peshwa of Poona and the Gaekwad of Baroda but the the British East India Company took over the city in 1818 during the Third Anglo-Maratha War. A military cantonment was established in 1824 and a municipal government in 1858 and this city which became one of the most important cities in the Gujarat region became a part of the Bombay Presidency. In 1864, a railway link between Ahmedabad and Bombay was established by the Bombay, Baroda, and Central India Railway or BB&CI, enabling traffic and trade between northern and southern India via the city. Over time, the city established itself as the home of a developing textile industry, which earned it the nickname “Manchester of the East”.

The Indian independence movement developed roots in the city when Mahatma Gandhi established two ashrams – the Kochrab Ashram near Paldi in 1915 and the Satyagraha Ashram which is now called the Sabarmati Ashram on the banks of the Sabarmati in 1917 – which would become centres of nationalist activities. In 1930, Gandhi initiated the Salt Satyagraha from Ahmedabad by embarking from his ashram on the Dandi Salt March. Following independence and the partition of India in 1947, the city was scarred by the intense communal violence that broke out between Hindus and Muslims. In 1947, Ahmedabad was the focus for settlement by Hindu migrants from Pakistan, who expanded the city’s population and transformed its demographics and economy.

Early in Ahmedabad’s history, under Ahmed Shah, builders fused Hindu craftsmanship with Persian architecture which gave rise to the Indo-Saracenic style seen in many of the heritage structures in the city.

Ahmedabad is synonymous with the Father of the Nation, Mahatma Gandhi and no visit to Ahmedabad can be complete without a visit to Sabarmati Ashram. Once the residence of Gandhiji and his wife Kasturba, this ashram is located on a tranquil and serene stretch of Sabarmati river. It is commonly believed that Mahatma Gandhi chose this site for it is located between a prison and a cemetery and a Satyagrahi is likely to end up in one of these. In gratitude of the substantial impact Dandi march had on the Indian independence movement, the Indian government has recognised the Sabarmati Ashram as a national monument. While visiting the Ashram, don’t forget to stop by the Upasana Mandir, Magan Niwas, Hriday Kunj, Udyog Mandir and Nandini. The Ashram Museum, Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya, includes an art gallery, a library, and the archives, tells you a lot about Gandhi, his family, his ways, revolutionary movements as well as some of Gandhi’s personal letters and photographs which are on display. The ashram is open daily from 8:30 am to 6:30 pm and entry is free.

Ahmedabad is also well known for its temples and mosques. The Swaminarayan temple is a shrine dedicated to Narayan Dev built in 1822 on the instructions of Swaminarayan, who was the founder of the Swaminarayan sect of Hinduism. Embellished with vivid colours and intricate carvings, the temple is a marvellous example of the architecture of the nineteenth century. Beautifully carved out of Burma teak wood, the intricate detailing in the carvings of this temple makes it an engineering masterpiece. The temple is open from 6 am to 7 pm, seven days of the week and entry is free.

Established in 1848, the Hutheesing Jain Temple is is dedicated to Dharmanath, the 15th Tirthankara of Jains, and is among the finest Jain temples in Gujarat. This two-storied elegant white marble structure is home to 11 deity sculptures. The courtyard, is bordered by a row of pergolas that has 52 shrines where each shrine exhibits remarkable designs and intricate carvings. The temple was christened after Sri Hathee Singh and it was made in the same architectural patterns of the Dilwara Jain Temples of Rajasthan.

Popularly known as Sidi Saiyyed Ni Jaali, the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque was built in the year 1573 and is among the last few mosques that were built under the Gujarat Sultanate and was completed in the last year of their reign before the Mughals invaded Gujarat and defeated them. The construction of this fantastic mosque is credited to Sidi Saiyyed in the retinue of Bilal Jhajar Khan, the general in the army of the last Sultan, Shams-Ud-Din Muzaffar Shah III, of the Gujarat Sultanate. The mosque is especially famous for its beautiful ten stone latticework windows, also known as Jalis, on the side and rear arches. The stone slabs are carved in the designs of intertwined trees and foliage with a palm motif. The mosque is now under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The mosque is open from 7 am to 6 pm and there is no entry fee.

The Jama Masjid in Ahmedabad is one of the largest mosques in India built in around 1424. A beautiful blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture styles, it was constructed with the purpose of serving as a private shrine to the Sultans and took about 13 years to finish. The mosque was built out of stones and rubble rescued from demolished Hindu and Jain temples. The Jama Masjid also houses the tombs of Ahmed Shah I, his son and his grandson followed by the graves of the queens of the king. The facade of Jama Masjid has a huge archway that welcomes you into the main complex. Made out of intricate stonework, the mosque opens into a splendid courtyard with an abulution pool right in the centre. The most striking feature of the construction is its unique meshwork in the main prayer hall, which allows enough illumination into the room without any direct sunlight. The mosque is open all days of the week between 6 am to 8 am and entry is free. Do note that during times of prayers, the doors are closed to visitors.

The Sarkhej Roza is a tomb and mosque complex is an attractive architectural complex which depicts the Islamic style during the Mughal period. This complex is also known as Ahmedabad’s Acropolis as the famous architect Le Corbusier’s compared this mosque’s design to the Acropolis of Athens. Don’t miss the Persian designs of the toms, Ganj Baksh’s Tomb and Sarkhej Lake when you are there. The tomb is open from 9 am to 6 pm with entry being free.

Also known as the Arak Fort, the 44 acre-Bhadra fort comprises of intricate carvings, latticework and frescos alongside arches and inscriptions at the entrance. Built in 1411 by Ahmed Shah I, the walls are said to have been established to protect the Gujarat Sultanate. The fort’s name is said to have come from the Bhadrakali temple installed by the Marathas. This red stone-fort located along the Sabarmati river was revamped by the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation and the Archaeological Survey of India in 2014. The fort comprises of a majestic palace, a lush green courtyard, and the Bhadrakali temple. Popular belief says that Goddess Lakshmi once stepped into the Bhadra Fort and blessed the Sultan that his city was to always remain wealthy and affluent. Even today it is believed that there are statshes of hidden wealth buried deep within the fort. Don’t miss the Royal Square, the Azam Khan Sarai, Clock Tower, Nagina Baugh, Maidan-e-Shah and the gardens within the fort. The fort is open from 9 am to 5 pm, all days of the week and entry to the fort is free.

Located at the eastern end of the Bhadra Fort, the Teen Darwaza holds historical significance as it used to bracket the Maidan Shahi palace. The gateway essentially opened into the fort’s Royal Square which organised games, processions and events. Besides being the city’s longest and oldest gateway, the Teen Darwaza is also featured on the emblem of the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation. An architectural marvel in every sense, the Teen Darwaza is made of stunning arched gates and was established in 141 A.D. by the founder of Ahmedabad city Sultan Ahmed Shah. The arch is open 24 hours of the day, seven days of the week and you don’t have to pay anything to view this magnificent structure.

Kankaria Lake is the second largest lake in Ahmedabad and was formerly known as Hauz-e-Qutub. Bulit in the 15th century, this pristine lakefront is popular among locals for an evening stroll because of the multi-coloured lights glowing all around its periphery. The lake also has a balloon safari, zoo, toy trains and an amusement park. The Kankaria carnival is usually celebrated as a week-long festival during the last week of December and is filled with many cultural, art and social activities. The lake is open from 9 am to 10 pm every day and you need to pay INR 10 for an adult and INR 5 for a child to enter the premises.

A lush green and well maintained garden, the Law Garden is frequented by locals and tourists alike. The garden is famous for its night market where one can find intricate traditional work and is a great place to buy traditional Gujarati apparel, accessories, ornaments and handicraft with traditional handiwork on them. This place is also well known for its street food and foodies will be spoilt for choice here.

The Sabarmati Riverfront is a waterfront developed on the banks of river Sabarmati. It was initiated with the objective for sustainable development and environmental improvement, but this riverfront has now become a major tourist attraction owing to its lush green promenades, beautiful parks and plazas and an all-around soothing ambience.

Also known as the Bai Harir Stepwell, the Dada Harir Vav is among the two famous stepwells in this region. The stepwell was built in 1485 by Dhai Harir, a household lady of Mahmud Begada according to the Persian inscription in the stepwell who was the superintendent of the royal harem. This octagonal stepwell designed in sandstone is a remanence of the Solanki style of architecture with intricate carvings and the stunning architecture of a bygone era. The stepwell has seven levels and is a great source of water conservation. Located right behind the grave of Dhai Harir, this unique construction showcases three stairways to the bottom of the well from the first storey. The whole structure of the Dada Harir Wav is a masterpiece of Gujarati design and intricate artistry in stone. The well bears two inscriptions, one in Sanskrit on the south, and one in Arabic on the north wall, of the first gallery. The Vav is open from 9 am to 5 pm and is free to visitors.

The Jhulta Minar or shaking minarets are among one of the most intriguing architectural wonders you can see. Originally part of the Sidi Bashir Mosque, only the central gateway and two minarets survive. The minarets are the tallest in Ahmedabad and though much damaged, especially near the foot, the stairs inside the minarets may still be used. The minarets are three stories tall with carved balconies. A gentle shaking of either minaret results in the other minaret vibrating after a few seconds, though the connecting passage between them remains free of vibration. The mechanism of this is not known, although the layered construction is thought to be a factor. The minarets are also able to withstand fast-moving trains passing close by. The minar is open from 5:30 am to 9 pm, with no entry fee, though entry was prohibited following an 1981 incident at the Qutub Minar in Delhi, when a stampede resulted in the deaths of many children. There is also damage to the upper sections.

Abbreviated as L.D Museum, the Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum, established in 1984 has Indian sculptures, bronzes, manuscripts, paintings, drawings, miniature paintings, woodwork, beadwork and ancient and contemporary coins. An outcome of the visions of Muni Punyavijayaji, an erudite monk scholar and Sheth Kasturbhai Lalbhai, the well-known industrialist of Ahmedabad, the museum is located on the premises of the L.D. Institute of Indology. All the major regional styles of the sub-continent find their place on the ground floor in Madhuri D. Desai Gallery. The museum has finest paintings in Gujarati Jaina Style, some of which are older than Mughal Period. The paintings find their place on the 1st floor of the Museum Building. In its eastern wing of the Muni Punyavijayaji Gallery, there is a section displaying the Leelavati Lalbhai Woodwork Collection. The museum houses 76,000 handwritten Jain Manuscripts, including 500 illustrated versions and 45,000 printed books, making it the largest collection of Jain scripts. The old books are written in languages such as Sanskrit, Pali, Old Gujarati, Apabhramsa, Hindi and Rajasthani. The museum is open on all days, except on Mondays and public holidays, from 10:30 am. to 5:30 pm. Entry is free in the museum.

The Calico Museum of Textile managed by the Sarabhai Foundation, is one of the oldest textile museums in the country and comprises exclusive collections of various textiles, fabrics and artefacts; rare collections of antique textiles; spectacular samples of Kashmir shawls; tie and dye fabrics; and relics from various parts of the country that makes it one of the best places for those interested in the history of fabrics and clothing. Don’t miss the exlusive collections of bronze, pichwai paintings, Jain art items, Indian miniature paintings, tribal art and handicrafts which are displayed in the museum. The museum is open from 10 am to 12:30 pm and then again from 2:45 pm to 4:30 pm every day of the week except Wednesdays with free entry into the museum.

Designed by the famous Le Corbusier, Sanskar Kendra is a city museum depicting history, art, culture and the architecture of Ahmedabad. A Patang or Kite Museum is also located next door, which includes a collection of kites, photographs, and other artifacts. Visiting this museum will give you a glimpse of the the living heritage of the city and its glorious past. Make sure you check out the photographs related to history of city, art, photography, Mahatma Gandhi, the Indian independence struggle and the various religious communities of Ahmedabad. The museum also houses the tallest incense stick of the world at 4.5 m long. Entry is free to this museum which is open on all days of the week from 10 am to 6 pm.

The Vechaar Utensils Museum is a unique and exclusive showcase depicting an centuries old antique collection of utensils and pots that have been picked from all over the country. Built in 1981, this one of a kind museum has a collection of over 4,500 exhibits and aims at preserving the evolution of Indian utensils over time. You need to pay INR 30 per adult and INR 10 for children aged 3 to 11 yearsto access the exhibits which remain open from 3 to 10:30 pm on all days except Mondays. Please note that foreigners pay more which is INR 100 per person and if you want to carry your camera or mobile phone inside, you need to pay an extra INR 100. If you plan on making videos inside the museum, it will cost you an extra INR 500 per video camera.

Lothal
One of the southernmost cities of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization, Lothal was located in the Bhal region in present day Gujarat and first inhabited from 3700 BC. Discovered in 1954, Lothal was excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), and was said to have had the world’s earliest known dock, which connected the city to an ancient course of the Sabarmati river on the trade route between Harappan cities in Sindh and the peninsula of Saurashtra when the surrounding Kutch desert of today was a part of the Arabian Sea. Lothal was a vital and thriving trade centre in ancient times, with its trade of beads, gems and valuable ornaments reaching the far corners of West Asia and Africa. The techniques and tools they pioneered for bead-making and in metallurgy have stood the test of time for over 4,000 years.

Lothal, which means “Mount of the Dead” is located near the village of Saragwala about 85 km southwest of of Ahmedabad on the banks of the ancient mythical river Saraswati which has now dried up or gone underground as it is commonly understood, the nearest cities to Lothal are Dholka and Bagodara. Adjacent to the excavated areas stands the Archaeological Museum, where some of the most prominent collections of Indus-era antiquities in India are displayed. This site has been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Vadodara
Known as Baroda during the British times, Vadodara is known as a Sanskari Nagari or traditional city of India. The city used to be called Chandanavati after its ruler Raja Chandan of the Dodiya of Rajputs. The capital was also known as Virakshetra or Viravati or the Land of Warriors. Later, it was known as Vadpatraka or Vadodara, which according to tradition is a corrupt form of the Sanskrit word vatodar meaning in the belly of the Banyan tree. In 1974, the official name of the city was changed to Vadodara.

The Navratri festival celebrated in Vadodara in the months of October/November are famous throughout India. The festival is celebrated with a lot of exuberance in this city and one should not leave the city without shaking a leg in its traditional dance forms of Garba and Dandiya. If you plan on visiting this city during this time, make sure you are there during Navratri and can check out the amazing and huge dance floors in the city. The picture above is the largest garba stadium and the small images inside the photo are the hundreds of thousands of people all dancing together.

The Laxmi Vilas Palace is the one thing you must visit while in Vadodara, if not anything else. Built in the Indo-Saracenic school of architecture, the Laxmi Vilas Palace is almost four times the size of Buckingham Palace and was the private residence of Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III. The royal family of the Gaekwads still reside today in private parts of the palace. Constructed in in 1890 and taking nearly twelve years to complete, the palace complex sprawls over an area of about 700 acres. It is built in the Indo-Saracenic style which is a hybrid of the Hindu, Gothic and Mughal architectural forms with the presence of domes, minarets and arches. The palace incorporates several important buildings within, including the Moti Baug Palace, the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum building and the LVP Banquets & Conventions building.

The Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum building was mainly constructed as a school for the Maharaja’s children. Today, it houses an extraordinary collection of sculptures and paintings by Raja Ravi Verma and various other artefacts gathered from all around the world, including several portaits of the royal family. The oriental gallery present inside the museum comprises of Chinese as well as Japanese sculptures. An excellent audio tour with free drink and snack are included in the ticket price.

The Makarpura Palace was initially constructed as a summer palace for the royal family of the Gaekwads. Built in 1870 and given an Italian touch in terms of architecture, it was renovated years after it was built because the palace was left unused as the royal family preferred spending most of their summers in the relatively cooler Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu. It now serves as a training school called No.17 Tetra School used by the Indian Air Force.

Believed to be used to collect tolls from merchants and traders, the Mandvi Gate is located at the exact centre of the old walled city. A pavilion or Mandapa, standing at the crossing of of the two cardinal streets of the old city, the structure is actually part of a larger building scheme, the “Killa-e-Daulatabad”. The fort is supposed to have been designed and constructed by Rumin Khan and based on the design of a Chopat or Ludo game. The square was cut into four more squares by two major streets and aligned with the cardinal directions. The fort walls were pierced with four gates, one on each side where the streets intersected with the wall. At the intersection of these cardinal streets, at the centre of the square, Mandvi Gate was built. The entire structure is illuminated during festivals and is truly a sight to behold.

Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III had an entire monument built to commemorate the cremation of his family members. This monument was called the Kirti Mandir. Widely known as the Temple of Fame, this structure was constructed also to celebrate the fifty years of his mighty administration. One of the carvings on the cenotaph makes one reminisce about the good old days, where India was not divided into so many states and territories, due credit to the undivided map of India displayed on the central arch. The 33 m high central arch is also ornamented with the sun, the moon and the earth and the rooms behold the sculptures and photographs of the members of the Gaekwad family.

Constructed by the Gaekwads in 1894, the Vadodara Museum and Picture Gallery is host to umpteen numbers of relics relating to a wide spectrum of fields right from archeology to geology. It also houses a few rare personal collection pieces of Maharaja Sayajirao III. Some of the most noteworthy relics include the 109 miniature paintings of the Mughal times, a Persian version of Mahabharata specially commissioned by Mughal Emperor Akbar and a 11th century Shiva in the Natraja pose, amongst others.

Sayaji Baug or Gardens, was dedicated to Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III himself. It is the most extensive garden in India’s western region and sprawls over 45 hectares of land. The garden was built in 1879 on the banks of the river Vishwamitri, and it comprises of a broad spectrum of flora, with more than 99 species of trees. The park also houses two museums, a planetarium, a zoo, a toy train for children and a flower clock. This park is a popular hangout for locals, especially during weekends.

Decked with green manicured lawns and towering palm trees, the crowd puller at the Ajwa Nimeta Garden is the 100-meter row of perfectly aligned musical fountains that mesmerise visitors with coordinated water shoots in the background of lively colours.

Located at a distance of about 90 km from Varoda in the heart of the Shoolpaneshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, the perennial and gorgeous Zarwani Waterfalls provide you an opportunity to trek, picnic, and indulge in wildlife photography.

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Deserted today, the city of Champaner provides a glimpse of the kind of prosperity which must have existed at one point of time. Located in the foothills of Pavagadh, the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that rests on a rocky hilltop and is dotted with mosques, forts, temples and palaces. The architecture of many old mosques reflect a blend of Islamic and Jain tradition. You also come across various heritage monuments belonging to the 16th century including mosques, temples, fortresses and palaces, among others. Some of the famous attractions worth checking out are the Jama Masjid, the Lila Gumbaj ki Masjid, the Lakulisa Temple, Pavagadh Fort and the Helica step-well. The hill of Pavagadh is believed to be a chunk of the Himalayas that was originally carried by Hanuman to Lanka in the Hindu mythological epic, the Ramayana.

Anand
Known as the Milk Capital of India, Anand came into the nation’s conscious when it became famous for Amul dairy and its milk revolution spearheaded by Dr. Verghese Kurien.

The Anand Milk Union Limited or Amul is a brand name that every Indian knows and has tasted. The Amul Chocolate Factory Dairy is a great place to revisit your childhood for adults and for children to believe they are in Willy Wonka’s world. You can see what goes behind making chocolate from all the stages of chocolate production, right from the earliest of stages to packaging. The factory also has a museum known as AMUL Co-operative Museum which has an exhibition, tracing down the storied past of one of the country’s greatest institutions and takes the visitor down the history of one of India’s best loved brands. It shows the advanced pasteurization methods of milk and the production of processed food. The museum is part of the history and heritage of Anand and has a photo gallery as well as an auditorium with a capacity to seat hundred people which showcases documentaries that take one back to its origins in the 1960s.

The Sun Temple at Borsad in Anand is dedicated to the Sun God. People believe that visiting and praying in this temple relives visitots from ailments which might cause unhappiness. The history behind this temple is a bit vague, but is believed that the temple was built at the insistence of the Sun God himself.

Travel Bucket List: India – Gujarat Part 2

South Gujarat, also known as Dakshin Gujarat is one of the wettest regions of India. The western part is almost coastal and is known as Kantha Vistar or coastal expanse in Gujarati, and the eastern part is also known as Dungar Vistar or hilly expanse, which ranges from 100 to 1000 metres, with the highest peak at Saputara in the Dang district. South Gujarat also has many towns which are probably familiar names to many people in Mumbai. Having done my entire schooling in a Parsi school, many of the towns show where the ancestors of classmates, friends and even teachers came from. So you have someone whose last name is Ankleshwaria whose ancestors definitely were from Ankleshwar, a Barucha who has roots in Baruch, an Udwadia from the holy town of Udvada, a Bulsara who came from Valsad and a Vapivala from the town of Vapi!

Surat
Also known as the Diamond City of India, Surat will be one of the world’s fastest growing cities between 2019 to 2035 according to a study conducted by the Economic Times. This port city and the commercial and economic centre of South Gujarat is is famous for its diamonds and textile Industries and as a shopping centre for apparels and accessories. It is the eighth largest city and ninth largest urban agglomeration in India and is located on the south bank Tapi river, about 14 km to the Arabian Sea. This city has has always attracted traders and merchants from afar. Its finely carved mosques, Parsi agiaris, European tombs and colonial houses all testify to the eclectic mix of ethnic communities that continue to live in the city. Surat is first major city en route to Gujarat from Mumbai, and makes a good base to explore southern Gujarat. Surat was once renowed for its silk weaving and brocade. The city still thrives as a textile center, mainly for its polyster fabrics. As the textile industries declined in Ahmedabad and Mumbai in the 1970s, Surat became one of Gujarat’s fastest growing cities and gave rise to several small scale industries.

So what can you see in and around Surat?

Dumas Beach – This urban beach located along the Arabian Sea, is located around 21 km southwest of Surat city. Because of high concentrations of iron, the sand in this beach takes on almost black colour. The beach also has stories about paranormal activities and hauntings and is said to be one of the most haunted places in India.

Suvali Beach – A calm and serene beach, the Suvali Beach is around 20 km west of Surat on the shore of the Arabian Sea, Though not as popular with locals, this beach is slowly developing into a tourist spot. This beach is also a black sand beach with the sand being of soft texture. Since there are not many people visiting the beach, you get to relax and experience solitude there. There are no vendors or restaurants situated near the beach thereby providing you with complete isolation.

Dabhari Beach – Located at a distance of 33 kms northwest of Surat, Dabhari Beach is one of the hidden gems of the state. Boasting of soft shiny sand, alluring sunrise and sunset views of the Arabian Sea, the beach has a lengthy coastline which is ideal for romantic walks along the shore. In addition, there are several shacks on the beach which sell food and drink. This beach is devoid of tourists and is a place where mostly locals flock to, so you will more or less have a section of the beach to yourself. Nearby is the Maa Khodiyar Temple nearby If you wish to visit.

Surat Castle – Dating back to the 16th century, Surat Castle or Surat Fort was constructed by Safi Agha, a Turkish soldier who had been enobled with the title of Khudawand Khan under orders of the Ahmedabad king Sultan Mahmood III who ruled between 1538 to 1554 against frequent Portugese incursions into the city. This structure sits on the banks of the river Tapi and is now filled with government offices, but you can go up to the top for a marvelous view of the city and Tapi river.

Chintamani Jain Temple – One of the oldest Jain temples in Surat, Chintamani temple was built in 1699 AD during the rule of Aurangzeb. During 12th century AD, there ruled a king called Kumarpal. He belonged to the Solanki dynasty and kept Acharya Hemachandraji as his advisor. The Acharya was a Jain preacher, poet and philosopher, and under the rule of Kumarpal there was overall prosperity in the kingdom. The Chintamani temple is said to be constructed to honour those great people. The temple has some intricately and beautifully carved designs on the wood with the ceilings showcasing paintings made from natural vegetable colour. The paintings depict Acharya Hemachandraji, King Kumapal and other Solanki kings. Apart from the being a religious place of worship, this Jain temple is also a specimen of the art of the 17th century. It is a clean, well-maintained and peaceful temple with religious, meditative, artistic and historic feel to it.

Sardar Vallabhai Patel Museum and Planetarium – Also known as the Sardar Sangralaya, this museum was established in 1889, and the collection represents the rich history and eclectic ethnic mix of Surat. It also provides maps for travelers. The musem is open from 9 am to 11:30 am and then again from 2:30 pm to 5pm every day except Sundays and public holidays. The Planetarium runs a show on the universe in Gujarati from 11:15 am to 1:45 pm from Wednesday to Saturday and then again from 2:45 pm to 5:45pm on Sundays and Tuesdays. The museum and planetarium are closed on Mondays.

Other smaller towns in South Gujarat include

Vapi
Situated near the banks of the Damanganga River, around 28 km south of Valsad, the town of Vapi is surrounded by the Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu. The town originally belonged to the Kshatriya Jagirdar family Palande during the Maratha empire, who now reside in Dungra. After independence from the British Crown in 1951, the jagirdar system was abolished by the Indian government and the community of Anavil Brahmin who formerly acted as tax farmers during the era of the Maratha empire received the land. It is believed that city got its name from the old small stepwell situated near the Balitha area. The meaning of the word Vapi in sanskrit is a water reservoir or a water storage body.

Vapi is also Known as the City of Chemicals, it is the largest industrial area in Gujarat in terms of small-scale industries, dominated by the chemical industry and because of this is among the most polluted places in India. This pollution is caused mainly because of the poor air and water quality in the town which is due to the chemical factories in the area.

You can make day trips to the union terrotiries of Daman and Diu which is less than a thirty minute drive from Vapi as well as Dadra and Nagar Haveli which is around an hour’s ride away. Other places to visit in Vapi include the GIDC Garden on the banks of the Damanganga river, the rustic Jerome fort,

Udvada
The town of Udvada, around 14 km from Vapi is the holiest places for the Parsi community. This town is renowned for its Zoroastrian Atash Behram, the oldest functioning Parsi fire temple where it is said the same flame burns which the first Parsi immigrants brought with them when they fled persecution in Iran and landed in Gujarat. Udvavd literally stands for grazing ground of camels, which was actually the town`s condition, prior to becoming a fishing village.

The importance of Udvada in Parsi history and religion centres around the Atash Behram (from Middle Persian Atash Warharan for “Victorious Fire”, the highest grade of ritual fire of the Zoroastrians) housed in the fire temple there.

The Udvada Atash Behram is the most sacred of the Zoroastrian fire temples in India and the oldest continuously burning fire-temple fire in the world. The Udvada Atash Behram is one of nine Atash Behrams worldwide, eight of which are in western India (four in Mumbai, two in Surat, one in Navsari, and the one in Udvada), and one of which is in Yazd, in central Iran.

The fire at the Udvada Atash Behram is called as the “Iranshah Fire”, so called because it was consecrated to be the earthly representative of Yazdegerd III, the last Zoroastrian king of Iran.

The ceremonies in Udvada are held on the ninth day of the ninth month in the Shahenshahi or imperial version of the Zoroastrian calendar. Pilgrims from all over the world visit the temple on that day. According to tradition and later as a result of legal verdict, nine priestly families of Sanjan and their heirs are the sole lawful guardians of the fire and its temple. They alone have the right to enjoy its income. The position of high priest passes in turn from the head of one family to the head of another.

Udvada also hosts a Zoroastrian heritage museum, sponsored by the Government of Gujarat. This museum contains summaries of the teachings and beliefs of Lord Ahura Mazda, as well as has a large write up that tells you about the history of the Parsis and Ahura Mazda. It also has explanations and write ups on the holy ceremony of the Parsis called Navjot, which is a baptism into the Parsi faith, which every Parsi child undergoes before they hit puberty.

Since the Parsi fire temple is open only to adherents of the faith, there’s not much to do in Udvada unless you are a Parsi. You can walk around the town and eat delicious Parsi food. This town can be done as a day trip from Vapi, Valsad and Surat.

Valsad
Historically known as Bulsar, Valsad is the district headquarters of Valsad district. The name “Valsad” is derived from vad-saal, a Gujarati language compound meaning “hampered (saal) by banyan trees (vad)” as this area was naturally rich in banyan trees. During the British colonial rule, Valsad was known as “Bulsar”. Earlier a village, Valsad was made the district headquarters during the Bombay Presidency, and was later governed under Bombay State, finally becoming part of the Gujarat state.

Prominent places of interest in the town include the Tithal Beach which is situated on the coastline and is famous for its black sand. It is a popular tourist destination in south Gujarat. Tithal Beach Festival and International Kite Festivals are also organized on the shore of the beach which are famous in this part of Gujarat. The Shree Shirdi Saibaba Sansthapan which is located on the shore of the Tithal beach was established in 1982 and is a famous local place of worship. The Shantidham Aradhana Kendra also in Tithal is famous for those who want to achieve mental peace and spiritual experience among the monks. The Tadkeshwar Mahadev Temple which is an ancient temple over 800 years old, is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located in Abrama. The Nargol Beach close to Valsad is one of those rare unexplored beauty-spots. This secluded beach, probably one of the few undiscovered spots in the tourist itinerary, has lush palm trees and greenery all around, making entire surrounding gorgeous. Stretches of sands, dotted with graceful casuarinas trees, the soft gentle waves crashing on the shore along with the pacific breeze, makes the surroundings cosmic paradisaical.

Bilimora
Situatied on the banks of the river Ambika, Bilimora lies about 25 km south of the district headquarters of Navsari. In the late 18th century, the Baroda State established a naval station at Bilimora, a port about 40 miles or 64 km south of Surat, known as Bunder Bilimora Suba Armor. A fleet of 50 vessels was stationed here, mostly sailboats, cargo vessels for trading and military vessels to secure the sea from the Portuguese, the Dutch and the French.

In addition to having Parsi settlements, and the tasty bakery goods that are a natural consequence, it is also a centre for the forest produce of the neighbouring district of Dang and is an important railway junction for travel to the mountain area of Saputara.

Bilimora is a small city with lot of temples, such as the Shri Jalaram Mandir, Shri Gayatri Mandir, Shri Dwarkadhish Mandir, the Swaminarayan Mandir, the Ganga Mata Temple, Shri Ramji Mandir at Talodh, the Somnath Mahadev Mandir and a Sikh Gurudwara on Gandevi Road. Saputara, the only hill station in Gujarat, is around 110 km away from Bilimora. One can visit Waghai, Saputara, Gira Falls in Dang District, India via a day road trip from Bilimora.

The Unai hot springs is another popular place in this area. Many local people believe in the legend of Lord Sri Rama which is linked to the hot springs reservoirs.

Navsari
Located about 30 kms south of Surat and on the banks of the river Purna, Navsari is an important commercial centre in south Gujarat. This city is also called a twin city to Surat and people live in Navsari and travel to Surat to work and vice versa. Originally known as ‘Navasarika’ and the capital of a vishya or administrative unit in the Lata region, NAvsari is also identified with ‘Nusaripa’, a city mentioned in Ptolemy’s 2nd century Greek-language work Geography. The Chalukyas of Navasarika, who governed the area around Navsari as subordinates of the Chalukyas of Vatapi, repulsed an Umayyad invasion of the area in 738-739.

Historically, the first settlement of the Parsis took place in Navsari in 1142. Two families of Parsi Zoroastrian priests settled in Navsari in the early 13th century, and the town soon emerged as the major centre of the Parsi priesthood and religious authority. As Parsi communities grew in other places in India, the priests from Navsari were sought by the new Parsi settlements. Surat replaced Navsari as the principal settlement of the Parsi community in the 18th century, following its rise as a major trade centre for the European factories, and the Maratha incursions into Navsari. Surat itself lost this position to Bombay in the later years. The pioneer of the Indian steel industry and the founder of the House of Tatas, Mr.Jamshedji Tata was born in Navsari. The house where he was born is well preserved and recommended for a visit.

The Meherjirana library is one of the oldest libraries in south Gujarat. It was established by the first Dastur or Parsi priest Meherjirana, who was also born in Navsari. He was invited by emperor Akbar in a religious programme organized by the Mughal emperor. Leaders of all religious groups participated in it. Akbar asked them to start a conversation and eventually asked them to give information about their religions. All the religious leaders gave information about their religions and gradually tried to show their religions as great except Dastur Meherjirana. Afterward, the leaders asked Akbar his opinion as to whose religion is great. Akbar was really impressed by Dastur Meherjirana, so he asked him. Meherjirana Dastur calmly replied, “All religions are equal in terms of strength and ideology and principle”. Akbar was extremely impressed by his personality. He donated a piece of land to Dastur Meherjirana in Navsari, where today the Meherjirana Library stands. Emperor Akbar wrote on a scroll about the donation of land which is still preserved by the management of the library.

Dandi Beach is immortalised in Indian history where Mahatma Gandhi ended the Dandi March also known as the Namak Satyagraha or Salt non-violent protest and picked up a pinch of salt in protest of the salt tax and the British rule and started his civil disobedience movement which eventually led to Indian independence, the Dandi beach lies about 21 km west of Navsari and around 49 km southwest of Surat. Great for a quick, yet not far weekend getaway from Surat, the sand in this serene and pristine beach which goes as far as your eyes can see makes a beautiful contrast against the blue sky.

Ajmalgadh is a cave surrounded by hills and forests lying between Valsad and Navsari. During times of persecution, the Parsis fled to the forest in the hills of Ajmaldadh to save and protect their sacred fire-cauldron for nearly 250–350 years. Recently, local administration constructed a pillar on the hill of Ajmalgadh describing the story. They also closed the cave which was used to protect the holy fire.

Source

Bharuch
Bharuch formerly known as Broach lies on the mouth of the Narmada river and is the administrative headquarters of Bharuch District. The oldest city of Gujarat and the second second-oldest city of India having continuous inhitations, Bharuch has a known history for about 8000 years. Bharuch was a ship building centre and sea port in the pre-compass coastal trading routes to points west, perhaps as far back as the days of the pharaohs. Bharuch was known to the Greeks, the various Persian Empires, in the Roman Republic and Empire, and in other Western centres of civilisation through the end of the European Middle Ages. In the 3rd century, Bharuch port was mentioned as Barugaza. Arab traders entered Gujarat via Bharuch to trade and the British and the Dutch took note of Bharuch’s importance and established their business centres here. At the end of the 17th century, it was plundered twice, but resurged quickly. Afterwards, a proverb was composed about it, “Bhangyu Bhangyu Toye Bharuch”, which translates to “Although battered and shattered at by the tidal waves of time, it is still Bharuch”. As a trading depot, the limitations of coastal shipping made it a regular terminus via several mixed trade routes of the fabled spice and silk trading between East and West. During the British Raj it was officially known as Broach.

Bharuch derives its name from the great sage Bhrigu. The original name of Bharuch is ‘Bhrigukachchha’. Bhrigu Rishi was one of the ten sons of Lord Brahma. There is also a story which indicates that Brighu along with his kins asked for temporary access to Bharuch which then belonged to Lakshmi since Bharuch is located on the banks of river Narmada also known as Rudra Deha. Brighu never left the place and the Ashram of Brighu Rishi is located on the banks of Narmada. Bharuch has been the home to the Gujarati Bhargav Brahmin community for eons. The community traces its lineage to Maharshi Bhrigu rishi and Bhagwan Parshuram who is considered to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The Bhargav community still administers a large number of public trusts in the city, but the numbers have reduced due to migrations over the years. Bharuch finds its mention in major Hindu scriptures, such as Bhagavata Purana, Shiva Purana, Skanda Purana, Kurma Purana, Matsya Purana, Ramayana and Mahabharata. Because of the distinctive colour of its soil, ideal for cotton cultivation, Bharuch is sometimes referred to as ‘Kanam Pradesh’ or black-soil land.

Places of interest in and around the city include the Bhrigu Rishi Temple located in the east of the city on the banks of the river Narmada. This temple is one of the most sacred temples in the state as the city’s name is derived from this temple. It is believed that it was at this temple that Rishi Bhrigu wrote the first Indian Astrological work, Bhrigu Samhita which documented five million horoscopes, in which he wrote down the fate of every being in the universe.

One of India’s most sacred rivers, the river Narmada flows through the city and it is believed that a dip in the Narmada river washes ones sins away, and that her divine sight alone makes one pure. According to a legend, the river Ganges is polluted by millions of people bathing in it. To cleanse herself, Ganges acquires the form of a black cow and comes to the Narmada to bathe in its holy waters. Legends also mention that the Narmada River is older than the river Ganges.

The Swaminarayan Temple in the city is a 175-year-old temple and hosts a palette of colours on its walls. The Narmada Mata Temple, close by is a 150-year-old temple dedicated to the Goddess Narmada. The Vaishnav Haveli enshrines an idol of Bal Krishna or baby Krishna and is said to have come from Mathura in 1725.

The Soneri Mahal or Golden Palace is a 1000 year old fort built by King Siddhraj Jaysinh, the then king of Gujarat. The fort is situated on a hill top which overlooks the Narmada river. Within the fort are the Collector’s office, Civil Courts, the Old Dutch factory, a church, the Victoria Clock tower and other buildings. Today the place where Goddess Lakshmi was supposed to have lived is a police station!

A unique feature of Bharuch is the Meghraja festival celebrated in the month of Shravan, sometime in August-September for 25 days. A 5.5 feet idol of Meghraj or the King of the Gods, Lord Indra is prepared from the soil of Narmada river and is worshiped for 25 days. A fair is organised during the last 4 days of this festival. This festivel is celebrated only in Bharuch and nowhere else in India.

Bharuch hosts one of the oldest libraries of Gujarat, the Raichand Deepchand Library, started in 1858. It has a collection of around 200,000 books.

Kabirvad is a small island about 16 km east of the city of Bharuch rumoured to be Saint Kabir’s residence several hundred years ago. Located along the banks of the river Narmada, the main attraction here is a gigantic banyan tree covering an area of more than 2.5 acres. What started as a single Banyan tree in Kabirvad has emanated into over 3000 trunks currently, with the mother tree believed to be over 600 years old, interestingly the tree populous has grown manifold to such an extent that it is impossible to distinguish the mother tree from the other trees at present. According to legend, it is at this place that saint Kabirdas meditated and the tree grew from a meswak stick which is used to brush teeth that was thrown here by the saint. A single tree has over years proliferated into a tree with several trunks and spread in over 2.5 acres of land. Other added attractions on the island are the lotus shaped marble temple, the Kabir museum and a boat ride on Narmada river.

The Statue of Unity is a colossal statue of the Indian statesman and independence activist Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel (1875–1950), who was the first Deputy Prime Minister and Home minister of independent India and the chief adherent of Mahatma Gandhi during the non-violent Indian Independence movement. It is located around 100 km east of Bharuch on a river facing the Sardar Sarovar Dam on river Narmada. The total height of the structure is 240 m, with a base of 58 m and statue of 182 m. The height of 182 was specifically chosen to match the number of seats in the Gujarat Legislative Assembly. The Statue of Unity is the world’s tallest statue at 182 m and rises 54 m higher than the previous record holder, the Spring Temple Buddha in China’s Hainan province

Saputara
Gujarat’s only hill station, Saputara is perched in the Sahayadri mountain ranges in the boder area between Maharashtra and Gujarat in the Dang district. Ahwa, Gira Water Fall, Sanctuary, Table Top, Sunset Point, Boating, Rope-Way, Paragliding etc. are main attractions of Saputara. Located in the Sahyadri range at an altitude of almost 1,000m, this hill-station derives its name from the snake god which is highly revered by the tribal people. Saputara means “the abode of serpents”. Although Saputara has a pleasant climate year round, if you really want to enjoy this place, go in the winter months between December and February.

There is much to do at this charming hill station. You can spend an idyllic holiday walking through the lush green forests, or trek up the mountains. If you wish, you can have a picnic by any of the several waterfalls that abound here. There are meandering paths for you to lose yourself in as you walk hand-in-hand with a loved one.

Make sure you are there around March just before the festival of Holi to take part in the Dang Darbar and soak in the culture of the Saputara and Dang. The festivities take place five days before Holi and you will be able to experience the joy and happiness of the people through dance, music, songs, garba events and even street dramas. The Dang Darbar is a popular festival and attracts crowds from far and wide, so make sure you plan in advance if you are going during this peak period.

The weather in winter of Saputara is perfect for paragliding and in fact, the hill station hosts the Paragliding Festival, an annual 26-day long festival in the months of December and January. It’s no wonder Saputara is rightly called India’s paragliding destination.

In the next post of this series, we will move to central Gujarat, which is where the major city of the state, Ahmedabad is located.

Travel Bucket List: India – Gujarat Part 1

Located in India’s westernmost part, bordering Pakistan, the state of Gujarat has a 1,600 km long coastline, most of which lies on the Kathiawar peninsula. The fifth largest state by area and the ninth largest state by population, Gujarat with its population in excess of 60 million is bordered by Rajasthan to the northeast, Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu to the south, Maharashtra to the southeast, Madhya Pradesh to the east, and the Arabian Sea and the Tharparkar, Badin and Thatta districts of Pakistani province of Sindh to the west. The capital city is Gandhinagar, while its largest city is Ahmedabad. Gujarat’s economy is one of the strongest in the country at number five and is built upon the business acumen of its people.

Historically, the north was known as Anarta, the Kathiawar peninsula, “Saurastra”, and the south as “Lata”. Gujarat was also known as Pratichya and Varuna. The Arabian Sea makes up the state’s western coast. Gujarat has the longest coastline – 24% of the Indian coastline is in this state and is dotted with 41 ports: one major, 11 intermediate and 29 minor.

The state encompasses some sites of the ancient Indus Valley Civilisation, such as Lothal, Dholavira and Gola Dhoro. Lothal is believed to be one of the world’s first seaports. Gujarat’s coastal cities, chiefly Bharuch and Khambhat, served as ports and trading centres in the Maurya and Gupta empires, and during the succession of royal Saka dynasties from the Western Satraps era. Along with Bihar and Nagaland, Gujarat is one of the three Indian states to prohibit the sale of alcohol. Gir Forest National Park in Gujarat is home of the only wild population of the Asiatic lion in the world.

The word Gujarat is derived from the Sanskrit term Gurjaradesa, meaning “The Land of the Gurjaras”, who ruled Gujarat in the 8th and 9th centuries. Parts of modern Rajasthan and Gujarat have been known as Gurjaratra or Gurjarabhumi or land of the Gurjars for centuries before the Mughal period.

Present day Gujarat was one of the main central areas of the Indus Valley Civilisation. It contains ancient metropolitan cities from the Indus Valley such as Lothal, Dholavira, and Gola Dhoro. The ancient city of Lothal was where India’s first port was established. The ancient city of Dholavira is one of the largest and most prominent archaeological sites in India, belonging to the Indus Valley Civilisation. The most recent discovery was Gola Dhoro. Altogether, about 50 Indus Valley settlement ruins have been discovered in Gujarat.

There is clear historical evidence of trade and commerce ties between ancient Gujarat and Egypt, Bahrain and Sumer in the Persian Gulf during the time period of 1000 to 750 BC. There was a succession of Hindu and Buddhist states such as the Mauryan Dynasty, Western Satraps, Satavahana dynasty, Gupta Empire, Chalukya dynasty, Rashtrakuta Empire, Pala Empire and Gurjara-Pratihara Empire, as well as local dynasties such as the Maitrakas and then the Chaulukyas who ruled the state.

The early history of Gujarat reflects the imperial grandeur of Chandragupta Maurya who conquered a number of earlier states in what is now Gujarat. Pushyagupta, a Vaishya, was appointed the governor of Saurashtra by the Mauryan regime. He ruled Girinagar which is now modern-day Junagadh between 322 to 294 BC and built a dam on the Sudarshan lake. Emperor Ashoka, the grandson of Chandragupta Maurya, not only ordered engraving of his edicts on the rock at Junagadh but asked Governor Tusherpha to cut canals from the lake where an earlier Mauryan governor had built a dam. Between the decline of Mauryan power and Saurashtra coming under the sway of the Samprati Mauryas of Ujjain, there was an Indo-Greek defeat in Gujarat of Demetrius. In 16th century manuscripts, there is an apocryphal story of a merchant of King Gondaphares landing in Gujarat with Apostle Thomas. The incident of the cup-bearer torn apart by a lion might indicate that the port city described is in Gujarat.

For nearly 300 years from the start of the 1st century AD, Saka rulers played a prominent part in Gujarat’s history. Mahakshatrap Rudradaman I founded the Kardamaka dynasty which ruled from Anupa on the banks of the Narmada up to the Aparanta region which bordered Punjab. In Gujarat, several battles were fought between the south Indian Satavahana dynasty and the Western Satraps. The greatest and the mightiest ruler of the Satavahana Dynasty was Gautamiputra Satakarni who defeated the Western Satraps and conquered some parts of Gujarat in the 2nd century AD. The Kshatrapa dynasty was replaced by the Gupta Empire with the conquest of Gujarat by Chandragupta Vikramaditya. Vikramaditya’s successor Skandagupta left an inscription around 450 AD on a rock at Junagadh which gives details of the governor’s repairs to the embankment surrounding Sudarshan lake after it was damaged by floods. The Anarta and Saurashtra regions were both parts of the Gupta empire. Towards the middle of the 5th century, the Gupta empire went into decline. Senapati Bhatarka, the Maitraka general of the Guptas, took advantage of the situation and in 470 AD he set up what came to be known as the Maitraka state. He shifted his capital from Giringer to Valabhipur, near Bhavnagar, on Saurashtra’s east coast. The Maitrakas of Vallabhi became very powerful with their rule prevailing over large parts of Gujarat and adjoining Malwa. A university was set up by the Maitrakas, which came to be known far and wide for its scholastic pursuits and was compared with the noted Nalanda University. It was during the rule of Dhruvasena Maitrak that Chinese philosopher-traveler Xuanzang or I Tsing visited in 640 AD along the Silk Road.

Gujarat was known to the ancient Greeks and was familiar with other Western centers of civilisation through the end of the European Middle Ages. The oldest written record of Gujarat’s 2,000-year maritime history is documented in a Greek book titled The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea: Travel and Trade in the Indian Ocean by a Merchant of the First Century.

In the early 8th century, the Arabs of the Umayyad Caliphate established an empire in the name of the rising religion of Islam, which stretched from Spain in the west to Afghanistan and modern-day Pakistan in the east. Al-Junaid, the successor of Qasim, finally subdued the Hindu resistance within Sindh and established a secure base. The Arab rulers tried to expand their empire southeast, which culminated in the Caliphate campaigns in India fought in 730; they were defeated and expelled west of the Indus river, probably by a coalition of the Hindu rulers Nagabhata I of the Pratihara Dynasty, Vikramaditya II of the Chalukya dynasty and Bappa Rawal of Guhila dynasty. After this victory, the Arab invaders were driven out of Gujarat. In the late 8th century, the Kannauj Triangle period started. The three major Indian dynasties – the northwest Indian Gurjara-Pratihara Dynasty, the south Indian Rashtrakuta Dynasty and the east Indian Pala Empire – dominated India from the 8th to 10th centuries. During this period the northern part of Gujarat was ruled by the north Indian Gurjara-Pratihara dynasty and the southern part of Gujarat was ruled by the south Indian Rashtrakuta dynasty until it was captured by the south Indian ruler Tailapa II of the Western Chalukya Empire.

Zoroastrians from Greater Iran migrated to the western borders of South Asia which were then Gujarat and Sindh during the 8th or 10th century, to avoid persecution by Muslim invaders who were in the process of conquering Iran. The descendants of those Zoroastrian refugees came to be known as the Parsi community both in present day India and Pakistan.

The Chaulukya dynasty ruled Gujarat from 960 to 1243 AD and at that time, Gujarat was a major center of Indian Ocean trade, and their capital at Anhilwara (Patan) was one of the largest cities in India, with population estimated at 100,000 in the year 1000. After 1243, the Solankis lost control of Gujarat to their feudatories, of whom the Vaghela chiefs of Dholka came to dominate Gujarat. In 1292 the Vaghelas became tributaries of the Yadava dynasty of Devagiri in the Deccan. Karandev of the Vaghela dynasty was the last Hindu ruler of Gujarat. He was defeated and overthrown by the superior forces of Alauddin Khalji from Delhi in 1297. With his defeat, Gujarat became part of the Muslim empire, and the Rajput hold over Gujarat would never be restored.

An independent Muslim community continued to flourish in Gujarat for the next hundred years, championed by Arab merchants settling along the western coast belonging to the Shafi’ite madhhab. From 1297 to 1300, Alauddin Khalji, the Turko-Afghan Sultan of Delhi, destroyed the Hindu metropolis of Anhilwara and incorporated Gujarat into the Delhi Sultanate. After Timur’s sacking of Delhi at the end of the 14th century weakened the Sultanate, Gujarat’s Muslim Rajput governor Zafar Khan Muzaffar also known as Muzaffar Shah I asserted his independence, and his son, Sultan Ahmed Shah who ruled between 1411 to 1442, established Ahmedabad as the capital. Khambhat eclipsed Bharuch as Gujarat’s most important trade port.

Later, a close alliance between the Ottoman Turks and Gujarati sultans to effectively safeguard Jeddah and the Red Sea trade from Portuguese imperialism, encouraged the existence of powerful Rumi elites within the kingdom who took the post of viziers in Gujarat keen to maintain ties with the Ottoman state. The Mughal emperor Humayun, had also briefly occupied the province in 1536, but fled due to the threat Bahadur Shah, the Gujarat king, imposed. The Sultanate of Gujarat remained independent until 1572, when the Mughal emperor Akbar the Great conquered it and annexed it to the Mughal Empire. The Surat port then became the principal port of India during Mughal rule to gain widespread international repute. The city of Surat, famous for its cargo export of silk and diamonds had come on a par with contemporary Venice and Beijing which were some of the great mercantile cities of Europe and Asia, and earned the distinguished title, Bab al-Makkah or Gate of Mecca.

In 1497, Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama is said to have discovered the Europe-to-India sea route which changed the course of history, thanks to Kutchi sailor Kanji Malam, who showed him the route from the East African coasts of Mozambique sailing onwards to Calicut off the Malabar coast in India. Later, the Gujarat Sultanate allied with the Ottomans and Egyptian Mamluks naval fleets led by governor-generals Malik Ayyaz and Amir Husain Al-Kurdi, vanquished the Portuguese in the 1508 Battle of Chaul resulting in the first Portuguese defeat at sea in the Indian Ocean. To 16th-century European observers, Gujarat was a fabulously wealthy country. The customs revenue of Gujarat alone in the early 1570s was nearly three times the total revenue of the whole Portuguese empire in Asia in 1586–87, when it was at its height. When the British arrived on the coast of Gujarat, houses in Surat already had windows of Venetian glass imported from Constantinople through the Ottoman empire. The conquest of the Kingdom of Gujarat marked a significant event of Akbar’s reign. Being the major trade gateway and departure harbour of pilgrim ships to Mecca, it gave the Mughal Empire free access to the Arabian sea and control over the rich commerce that passed through its ports. The territory and income of the empire were vastly increased.

For the best part of two centuries, the independent Rajput Sultanate of Gujarat was the cynosure of its neighbours on account of its wealth and prosperity, which had long made the Gujarati merchant a familiar figure in the ports of the Indian Ocean. Gujaratis, including Hindus and Muslims as well as the enterprising Parsi class of Zoroastrians, had been specialising in the organisation of overseas trade for many centuries, and had moved into various branches of commerce such as commodity trade, brokerage, money-changing, money-lending and banking. By the 17th century, Chavuse and Baghdadi Jews had assimilated into the social world of the Surat province, later on their descendants would give rise to the Sassoons of Bombay and the Ezras of Calcutta, and other influential Indian-Jewish figures who went on to play a philanthropical role in the commercial development of 19th-century British Crown Colony of Shanghai. Spearheaded by Khoja, Bohra, Bhatiya shahbandars and Moorish nakhudas who dominated sea navigation and shipping, Gujarat’s transactions with the outside world had created the legacy of an international transoceanic empire which had a vast commercial network of permanent agents stationed at all the great port cities across the Indian Ocean. These networks extended to the Philippines in the east, East Africa in the west, and via maritime and the inland caravan route to Russia in the north.

When the cracks had started to develop in the edifice of the Mughal Empire in the mid-17th century, the Marathas were consolidating their power in the west. Chatrapati Shivaji, the great Maratha ruler, attacked Surat in southern Gujarat twice first in 1664 and again in 1672. These attacks marked the entry of the Marathas into Gujarat. However, before the Maratha inroads into Gujarat, the Europeans had made their presence felt, with the Portuguese leading them, followed by the Dutch and the English. The Peshwas had established their sovereignty over parts of Gujarat and collected taxes and tributes through their representatives. Damaji Gaekwad and Kadam Bande divided the Peshwa’s territory between them, with Damaji establishing the sway of Gaekwad over Gujarat and made Baroda or present day Vadodara in southern Gujarat his capital. The ensuing internecine war among the Marathas was fully exploited by the British, who interfered in the affairs of both Gaekwads and the Peshwas. In Saurashtra, as elsewhere, the Marathas were met with resistance. The decline of the Mughal Empire helped form larger peripheral states in Saurashtra, including Junagadh, Jamnagar, Bhavnagar and a few others, which largely resisted the Maratha incursions.

In the 1600s, the Dutch, French, English and Portuguese all established bases along the western coast of the region. Portugal was the first European power to arrive in Gujarat, and after the Battle of Diu, acquired several enclaves along the Gujarati coast, including Daman and Diu as well as Dadra and Nagar Haveli. These enclaves were administered by Portuguese India under a single union territory for over 450 years, only to be later incorporated into the Republic of India on 19 December 1961 by military conquest. The British East India Company established a factory in Surat in 1614 following the commercial treaty made with Mughal Emperor Nuruddin Salim Jahangir, which formed their first base in India, but it was eclipsed by Bombay after the English received it from Portugal in 1668 as part of the marriage treaty of Charles II of England and Catherine of Braganza, daughter of King John IV of Portugal. The state was an early point of contact with the west, and the first British commercial outpost in India was in Gujarat.

Later in the 17th century, Gujarat came under control of the Hindu Maratha Empire that rose defeating the Muslim Mughals and who dominated the politics of India. Most notably, from 1705 to 1716, Senapati Khanderao Dabhade led the Maratha Empire forces in Baroda. Pilaji Gaekwad, first ruler of Gaekwad dynasty, established the control over Baroda and other parts of Gujarat. The British East India Company wrested control of much of Gujarat from the Marathas during the Second Anglo-Maratha War in 1802–1803. Many local rulers, notably the Rajput Maratha Gaekwad Maharajas of Baroda (Vadodara), made a separate peace with the British and acknowledged British sovereignty in return for retaining local self-rule. An epidemic outbreak in 1812 killed half the population of Gujarat.

Gujarat was placed under the political authority of the Bombay Presidency, with the exception of Baroda state, which had a direct relationship with the Governor-General of India. From 1818 to 1947, most of present-day Gujarat, including Kathiawar, Kutch and northern and eastern Gujarat were divided into hundreds of princely states, but several districts in central and southern Gujarat, namely Ahmedabad, Broach (Bharuch), Kaira (Kheda), Panchmahal and Surat, were governed directly by British officials.

After Indian independence and the partition of India in 1947, the new Indian government grouped the former princely states of Gujarat into three larger units; Saurashtra, which included the former princely states on the Kathiawad peninsula, Kutch, and Bombay state, which included the former British districts of Bombay Presidency together with most of Baroda state and the other former princely states of eastern Gujarat. Bombay state was enlarged to include Kutch, Saurashtra (Kathiawar) and parts of Hyderabad state and Madhya Pradesh in central India. The new state had a mostly Gujarati-speaking north and a Marathi-speaking south. Agitation by Gujarati nationalists, the Mahagujarat Movement, and Marathi nationalists, the Samyukta Maharashtra, for their own states led to the split of Bombay state on linguistic lines; on 1 May 1960, it became the new states of Gujarat and Maharashtra. In 1969 riots, at least 660 died and properties worth millions were destroyed.

The first capital of Gujarat was Ahmedabad; the capital was moved to Gandhinagar in 1970. The Nav Nirman Andolan, a socio-political movement of 1974, was a students’ and middle-class people’s movement against economic crisis and corruption in public life. This was the first and last successful agitation after the Independence of India that ousted an elected government.

The 2001 Gujarat earthquake’s epicentre was located about 9 km south-southwest of the village of Chobari in Bhachau Taluka of Kutch District. This earthquake’s magnitude of 7.7 shock killed around 20,000 people, including at least 18 in South-eastern Pakistan, injured another 167,000 and destroyed nearly 400,000 homes.

In February 2002, the Godhra train burning lead to statewide riots, resulting in the deaths of 1044 people – 790 Muslims and 254 Hindus, and hundreds missing still unaccounted for. The Akshardham Temple was attacked by two terrorists in September 2002, killing 32 people and injuring more than 80 others. National Security Guards intervened to end the siege killing both terrorists. On 26 July 2008 a series of seventeen bomb blasts rocked the city, killing and injuring several people.

The Sabarmati River is the largest river in Gujarat followed by the Tapi, although the Narmada covers the longest distance in its passage through the state. The Sardar Sarovar Project is built on the Narmada River and it is one of only three rivers in peninsular India that run from east to west – the others being the Tapi River and the Mahi River. Gujarat has some of the major mountain ranges of India, including the Aravallis, the Sahyadris or what is commonly known as the Western Ghats, the Vindhyas and the Saputaras. Girnar is the tallest peak and Saputara is the only hill-station in the state. The Rann of Kutch is a seasonally marshy saline clay desert located in the Thar Desert biogeographic region in between the province of Sindh and the state of Gujarat situated 8 kilometres from the village of Kharaghoda in the Surendranagar District and Pakistan’s Sindh province. The name “Rann” comes from the Gujarati word rann which means “desert”.

As per the 2011 census, the state has one of the lowest sex ratios in the country. There are 918 girls for 1000 boys. Hindus makes up the biggest number of residents at about 88.5% with Muslims constituting about 10% and the others the balance 1.5% of the population. Gujarat has the third-largest population of Jains in India, following Maharashtra and Rajasthan. The state’s official language is Gujarati which is spoken natively by about 86% of the population. People from the Kutch region also speak in the Kutchi mother tongue, and to a great extent appreciate Sindhi as well. Memoni is the mother tongue of Kathiawar and Sindhi Memons, most of them who are exclusively Muslims.

The best time to visit the state is between une to March, when the weather is pleasant as compared to the summer, when heat and humidity rules the roost.

So let’s go and visit Vibrant Gujarat as the state tourism puts it. This time, instead of starting with a state’s capital city and then fanning outwards, I am going to start first with South Gujarat which is the part closest to my home state of Maharashtra and then move to Central Gujarat, North Gujarat and then loop back to Saurashtra and Kutch.