Karaikal is also an enclave of Tamil Nadu and occupies an area of 160 sq km. A small coastal enclave, Karaikal is bound on three sides by districts of Tamil Nadu and the Bay of Bengal on the east.It is about 132 km south of Puducherry. Karaikal became a French Colony in 1674 who controlled the enclave, with occasional interruption from the British and Dutch, until 1954, when it was incorporated into the Republic of India, along with Chandernagore, Mahé, Yanaon, and Pondichéry. Forming a part of the fertile Cauvery delta, the region is completely covered by the distributaries of Cauvery and the group of rocks known as Cuddalore formations met with in the area contiguous to Karaikal region in Nagappattinam district.
The origin of the word Karaikal is uncertain with the British probably meaning it means a fish pass. But both the words, Karai and Kal have multiple meanings, of which the more acceptable ones are lime mix and canal respectively and it has been suggested that the name may mean a canal built of lime mix, however, no trace of such a canal is evident.
Before 1739, Karaikal was under the regime and control of Raja Pratap Singh of Tanjore. In 1738, the French negotiated with Sahuji of Thanjavur for possession of Karaikal, the fortress of Karakalcheri and five village for 40,000 chakras and took possession of Karaikal town, the fort of Karakalcheri and eight dependent villages on 14 February 1739. By a treaty signed on 12 January 1750 Pratap Singh ceded to the French 81 villages around Karaikal and cancelled the annual rent payable for the villages. This was all the territory the French possessed around Thanjavur when they surrendered to the British in 1761. The territory then passed twice to British control before it was finally handed over to the French in 1816/1817 under the Treaty of Paris of 1814.
In 1947, after the rest of India became independent, the French territories also started their struggle until 31 October when the French flag was lowered with due military honours and the de facto transfer of power took place on 1 November 1954 followed by de jure transfer on 16 August 1962.
The breathtaking views from Karaikal Beach is what makes it so popular. It is a natural beach that lies on the Bay of Bengal and is an excellent spot for a dip and for evening walks. An ideal place to witness the sunset, there is a rocky path here to walk on, fishing boats to watch and plenty of opportunities for nature photography. The beach is perfect for water activities like swimming, canoeing and kayaking with the boat club allowing visitors to rent motor boats, peddle boats and rowing boats. There is a lighthouse on the premises that attracts large crowds with several fountains adding to the area’s appeal. There is also a children’s park and a tennis court close by. A walk or drive from the Arasalar Bridge provides an opportunity to admire the water, the hills around and the mangroves near the backwaters.
Mahé is an enclave of Kerala and the smallest district by size and the sixth least populous district of India. It is bound on three sides by districts of Kerala and the Arabian Sea on the west and geographically is part of North Malabar. Also known as Mayyazhi, Mahé is situated at the mouth of the Mahé River.
The name Mahé derives from Mayyazhi, the name given to the local river and region in the Malayalam. It was also called variously from the early 1720s as Mayé, Mahé and Mahié until the early 19th century when Mahé became the how the town was spelt. Before the arrival of the European trading companies, this area was part of the Kolathu Nadu which comprised of Thulunadu, Chirakkal and Kadathanadu. The French East India Company constructed a fort on the site of Mahé in 1724, because of an accord between André Mollandin and Raja Vazhunnavar of Vatakara three years earlier. In 1741, the French retook the town after a short period of occupation by the Marathas. In 1761 the British captured Mahé, and the settlement was handed over to the Rajah of Kadathanadu. The British restored Mahé to the French as a part of the 1763 Treaty of Paris and in 1779, the French lost Mahé in the Anglo-French war. In 1783, the British agreed to restore to the French their settlements in India, and Mahé was handed over to the French in 1785 and captured it in 1793 and then restored it back to the French in 1816 as part of the 1814 Treaty of Paris. After Indian independence, it continued to be French-ruled until 13 June 1954, when a long anti-colonial struggle culminated in it joining the Indian Union as a district of Puducherry Union Territory.
The Sri Puthalam Bhagavathy Temple is an ancient historic temple dedicated to Goddess Bhagavathi. The temple’s legend is based on events that occurred during the conflict between the French and Indian armies. The historic St Theresa Church was constructed in 1757 as a part of the Mahe Mission. Mooppenkunnu is a hillock and a popular picnic spot with pavements to walk on, benches to rest and a restroom facility. The hillock contains the historic Lighthouse and is a famous sunset view point.
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The walkway on the banks of Mahé river is a major tourist attraction which surrounds the landscape and has park benches to relax and enjoy the beauty of the river. Azhimukham is the estuary of the Mahe river and the Arabian Sea. There is a small park named Tagore Park here and the reconstruction of a 2-km walkway along the bank of river from the estuary towards Mahe Bridge.
Located close to Kannur, Mahe Beach is a quiet and clean beach, part of Kerala’s northern coast. Lined with tall palm trees, the beach is a must-visit during the early hours of the morning to witness the gorgeous sunrise. Ideal not just for swimming, but also for beach sports, the view of the sunrises and sunsets are absolutely spectacular. There are several fishermen villages around the beach because of which there are always numerous colourful boats around. Dharmadam Island is ideal for watching the sunrise or sunset which can be reached by a short boat ride.
An enclave of Andhra Pradesh, Yanam is one of the four districts of the Union Territory of Puducherry in India and occupies an area of 20 sq km. It is located south of Kakinada port on the north bank of the Godavari River, slightly inland and is surrounded by the East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh. Yanam is covered with coconut trees and is located over the banks of the Gauthami Godavari River, one of the main branches of the river Godavari when it enters the Bay of Bengal after flowing about 12 km through Yanam. Indigo wells or Neelikundilu are still found in the west of Yanam.
Yanam or Yanaon as it was called during the French colonial times, is located in the East Godavari district in Andhra Pradesh with a population of 35,000, most of whom speak Telugu. A French colony for nearly 200 years, it possesses a blend of French and Telugu culture, and is nicknamed Frelugu. During French rule, the Tuesday market, the Marché du mardi or Mangalavaram Santa was popular among residents of the the Madras Presidency, who used to visit Yanam to buy foreign and smuggled goods during Yanam People’s Festival held annually in January. After the implementation of the Child Marriage Restraint Act, 1929 in British India, people often travelled to Yanam to conduct child marriages, which remained legal under the French administration.
Yanaon was a Dutch colony prior to French takeover in the 1720s and the Dutch built a fort, used to store their currency, which was minted at nearby Neelapalli. The location of the fort is today referred to by locals as the Saali Kota or Saalivandru, meaning shawl-hut, since after the Dutch moved out, the building was taken over by cloth weavers. The region was presented to the by the king of Vizianagaram as a token of gratitude for their help in his fight against the rulers of Bobbili. Yanaon was the third French colony established in India, though it was officially confirmed as one only by 1751. It went to the British after the Anglo-French war of 1758 which was won by the British and was restored again to the French in 1785. During 1793 and 1816 it was under British control and after the Napoleonic wars, by the Treaty of Paris of 1814, Yanam along with the factory at Machilipatnam was finally returned to the French on 26 September 1816. From then it was continuously under French control until its transfer to India in 1954.
The Lord Sri Rajarajeswara Temple on the bank of Atreya Godavari, which is also known as the Corangi river. The temple was built by the Chalukya kings of Rajamahendravaram or Rajahmundry in the 15th century with sculptures of that period present in the temple. The main festivals in the temple are the Kalyanotsavam and the Rathostavam which have been performed for centuries with devotees singing slogans and bhajans. The Kalyanotsavam festival celebrated in January/February is when Lord Srī Rajarajeswara becomes a groom and has a procession on the streets of the town with chariots each day. The Kalyaṇam, Rathotsavam and Trisulatirtham are the important events of the festival with the Vahana Samprokshaṇa or the ritual cleansing of the chariot done by priests every day for each of the chariots used for the procession.
The Venkanna Babu Temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu known as Venkanna Babu, Chaldikudu Venkanna and Meesala Venkanna. The speciality of the temple is that the Lord’s idol has a big moustache like that of Lord Sathyanarayana Swamy of Annavaram. The temple was built by the Chalukya kings of Rajamahendravaram or Rajahmundry in the 15th century. This temple used to perform child marriages and when the Child Marriage Act was passed in British India, people from nearby areas used to come here to conduct such marriages as the French allowed such practices.
The site for the Grand Mosque was donated by the French Government in 1848 and a small mosque was constructed there and in 1956, it was remodelled. It was demolished in 1978 and a new mosque constructed and in 1999–2000, the mosque was expanded to become the Grand Mosque. Around 200 persons can pray in this mosque at a time.
The French Catholic are linked with the Catholic Church in Yanam, the St. Ann’s Catholic Church. Built in the European style, in 1846 by French missionaries, all furniture and decoration articles were imported from France. The church holds a Catholic Festival in March
Yanam Beach is the best getaway to spend quiet time away from the crowds. Also known as the Rajiv Gandhi Beach, one can take boat rides at the beach as well as walks along the Ferry Road. There are many packages available including a ride over the Godavari River, cruises to a few islands, visiting the Sangam where the river meets the sea or a ride to the mangrove forest on the Gowthami Godavari River. There are also houseboat services that begin from Rajiv Gandhi Arch Road near the Shiva Linga. The Yanam Ferry Road inaugurated in 2000 is a walking trail along the beach with elephant statues guarding the Shiva Linga from the entrance to the pathway. The Nagoor Meera Sahib Mandir on the Ferry Road is built as a ship.
The Palais de Justice or the French courthouse and St. Ann’s Catholic Church are around 1 km away from the beach. The Court building is situated in an ancient white monument building of French architecture and has two floors, the ground floor is the court and the first floor is the residential quarters of the judge and was renovated in 1967. The Sivalayam on the banks of the Corangi River is 3 km away from the beach and is a religious hub. The Fete de Pondicherry is a three-day cultural event conducted by the government of Puducherry.
The Coringa Wildlife Sanctuary is 21 km away from Yanam Beach and is a great spot for bird lovers. The sanctuary shelters more than 120 bird species and endangered species, such as the long-billed vulture and the white-backed vulture are found here.
This short, but interesting series on the Union Territory of Puducherry was quite illunimating to me as I hope it was for you. I learnt a lot about the former French colonies of India, especially Karaikal, Mahe and Yanam, which I barely knew about previously.
Rishis are learned sages and the Sapta Rishis or the seven great sages are the seven rishis in ancient India, who are extolled at many places in the Vedas and other Hindu literature. The Vedic Samhitas never enumerate these rishis by name, though later Vedic texts such as the Brahmanas and Upanisads do so. They are regarded in the Vedas as the patriarchs of the Vedic religion.
In ancient Indian astronomy, the asterism of the Big Dipper, part of the constellation of Ursa Major, is called Saptarishi, with the seven stars representing seven rishis, namely Vashistha, Marichi, Pulastya, Pulaha, Atri, Angiras and Kratu. There is another star slightly visible within it, known as Arundhati with Arundhati and Vashishtha who are married, and together form the Mizar double.
The Saptarishis included Sage Kashyapa, Sage Atri, Sage Vashishta, Sage Vishvamitra, Sage Gautama, Sage Jamadagni and Sage Bharadwaja. The Saptarishis were created by Lord Brahma to impart education to the human race. They passed down wisdom to the mankind so that it is able to follow the path of knowledge, understand the basic principles of goodness, and become enlightened.
Tomorrow is Rishi Panchami, a very auspicious day for Hindus. Rishi Panchami is celebrated on the fifth day of Shukla Paksha in the month of Bhadrapad, from mid-August to mid-September. It is celebrated two days after Hartalika Teej and the day after the Ganesh Chaturthi festival. It is believed that this day honours the entire gamut of sages of ancient India and is especially dedicated to the Saptarishis, the seven great sages. In some parts of Kerala, the day is also observed as Vishwakarma Puja. The festival is very famous in Nepal among the Hindus where in some regions the three days Hartalika Teej fasting ends on Rishi Panchami.
On Rishi Panchami women fast to pay obeisance to the seven sages and to get purified. Hinduism gives highest priority to purity and there are strict guidelines to maintain the purity of the body and soul. Women are believed to be contaminated during their menstrual cycle and in many families, even today, women are not allowed to enter in the kitchen or to participate in any religious activities and touch anyone during this time. And it is believed that by doing such things, women are inflicted by the Rajaswala Dosha. The fast on Rishi Panchami is believed to get rid of this Rajaswala Dosha.
Rishi Panchami is also celebrated as Raksha Bandhan or Rakhi festival by some Dadheech Brahmins and also the Agrawal and Maheshwari communities of Rajasthan. Sisters tie the Rakhi or a sacred thread and both brothers and sisters pray for the well-being of each other and vow to protect each other.
The day is so auspicious that it is believed that a fast kept on this day and all the rituals followed will relieve a person from all sins in not just the current life, but also from past lives. The story behind Rishi Panchami was narrated by Lord Brahma himself. According to him, there was a simple Brahmin named Uttank who used to live with his wife Sushila and their daughter, a widow. One night, several ants covered the body of the daughter and the parents were astonished to see this. They became extremely worried and immediately called a sage, so that he could explain the situation and give them a solution. The Rishi whom they called was a learned sage and he explained the reason behind the trouble. He made them aware of the sin that their daughter committed in her previous life which was that she had entered the kitchen during her menstruation. The rishi advised the daughter to perform certain rituals on the day of Rishi Panchami to purify her body and soul, so that she would be relieved of the sin that she has committed. Following the instructions given by the sage, the daughter performed all the customs with absolute devotion which set her soul free from the dosha.
On Rishi Panchami, devotees wake up early morning and take a bath immediately and then begin their fast. The only purpose of Rishi Panchami is to sanctify a person completely which is why some people do things like the cleaning of teeth and bathing with herbs, which are very pure and are considered to leave the body extremely clean. A mixture of curd, milk, basil and butter is drunk to purify the soul. Worshipping Gods including Lord Ganesh, the Navagraha or nine planets, the Saptarishis and the star Arundhati form the concluding part of the rituals performed. The prayers are offered in order to invoke the presence of the seven sages, with different offerings like food and flowers being offered.
About 114 km southwest of Prayagraj lies the small town of Chitrakoot. Called the Place of many Wonders, Chitrakoot is situated in the north Vindhyan range and holds great importance according to Hindu mythology and the Ramayana. Legend has it that Chitrakoot was the place where Lord Rama, his wife Goddess Sita and his brother Lord Lakshmana stayed for eleven and half of their fourteen years of exile making it a revered pilgrimage site. According to the Ramayana, Chitrakoot was where Bharata, brother of Lord Rama came to visit him and ask him to come back to Ayodhya and rule. It is also believed that the Trinity of Gods, Lords Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva took incarnations here. The Chitrakoot mountain range has numerous places of great religious importance like the Bharat Milap Temple, the Hanuman Dhara, Janki Kund and more. Chitrakoot is also where Goswami Tulsidas, author of the Ramcharitmanas, spent many years. And Chitrakoot is also home to the only university in the world specially made for the differently-abled, the Jagadguru Rambhadracharya Handicapped University.
Kamadgiri is a forested hill with the base surrounded by temples on all sides and is considered to be the heart of Chitrakoot. Pilgrims perform a Parikrama or a circumbulation around the hill with the belief that their sorrows will end and wishes come true. Kamadgiri is derived from Kamadnathji, another name for Lord Rama and it means a fulfiller of wishes. There are several temples on the 5 km path of the parikrama, with the most famous being the Bharat Milaap temple, where Bharat met Lord Ram and convinced him to come back to his kingdom. Some parts of Kamadgiri Mountain falls in Uttar Pradesh, while the others in Madhya Pradesh. The mountain sees a throng of devotees during the Chaitra month, the first month of the Hindu calendar, about mid-march to mid-April due to the Ram Navami festival and during Diwali. There is a grand fair held every month on the full moon day or Amavasya. The best time to visit is during the winter months as during summer, the red stones become too hot to walk around for the parikrama.
Hanuman Dhara is the name of the spring which sprouted from a rock when Lord Rama shot an arrow into it to calm down and enraged Lord Hanuman when he came to this place to extinguish the fire that was caught in his tail after he returned from burning Lanka. There is statue of Lord Hanuman here and the stream of water falls on the statue releasing in a kund or pond. There also also langurs in the area, mammals associated with Lord Hanuman, the monkey God.
The Sati Anusuya temple is dedicated to Anusuya where legend says that she sprinkled some special water over the holy trinity Lords Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwar and this led to their incarnations. It is also said that Anusuya was dedicated in praising the Gods to end a famine in the area and thus the town was blessed with the river Mandakini.
Sphatik Shila has two massive rocks believed to have the footprints of Lord Rama and Goddess Sita. Sphatik Shila which means a crystal rock is located amidst dense forests, close to Janki Kund on the banks of the river Mandakini. It is said that Goddess Sita and Lord Rama were relaxing here and a crow pecked the feet of goddess Sita which agitated Lord Rama and he took off the eyes of the crow, But the crow was actually a form of Jayant, the son of Lord Indra.
Believed to the place of the meeting of the four brothers during Lord Rama’s period of exile, the Bharat Milaap Temple is very important temple in Chitrakoot. Located along the parikrama of Kamadgiri, a visit to this temple is a must where one can see the footprints of Lord Rama and his family. A small temple along with a well, Bharat Kup is located few km from Chitrakoot and it is believed that it was here that Bharat stored water from all pilgrimage places in India.
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The Gupt Godavari is a pair of caves in which there is a tiny entrance, through which one can barely pass. Water trickles down in streams through the other cave, which can rise up to the length of the knees. It is said that Lord Rama and Lord Lakshman once held their secret meetings here, which is validated apparently by the throne like structures present in the cave. Marpha located 4 km from the Gupt Godavari caves is famous for its natural beauty, temples and the ruins of a Chandel fort.
Rajapur is a small town about 40 km from Chitrakoot and is famous because it is the birthplace of Goswami Tulsidas, the author of the Sri Ramcharit Manas and the Hanuman Chalisa. A small temple dedicated to Tulsidas on the banks of the Yamuna river is present here and is the main attraction of this place. At the temple, one can still see many scriptures in the handwriting of the author and excerpts of the Ramcharit Manas are present here.
Located just 11 km on the Karvi-Devangana Road, the Ganesh Bagh is an architecturally beautiful temple where a baoli or well with seven storeys and ruins of a palace exist. The whole complex was built by Peshwa Vinayak Rao in the 1880s as a summer retreat and is also known locally as mini-Khajuraho.
Ram Ghat is a serene ghat on the banks of the Mandakini River where Lord Rama, Goddess Sita and Lord Lakshman appeared in front of the famous poet Tulsidas and where he sat on the riverside and write the Ramcharitra Manas. Ram Ghat is the centre of all religious activities in the town and the most popular bathing ghat where it is believed that taking a dip here would absolve a person of all sins. One can go for a boat ride in the river and watch the aarti which takes place at 6:30 pm every day. The ideal cost of a boat ride is around INR 150-200 and so visitors commanded by touts demanding more should be more aware.
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Janki Kund is situated along the banks of the Mandakini river and it is believed to be where Goddess Sita used to bathe during the period of exile. One can also see some footprints by the riverside which many believe are hers.
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Vindhyachal
Vindhyachal is a Hindu pilgrimage site on the banks of the river Ganga. The town is famous for the temple of Vindhyavasini, the daughter of Yashoda and Nanda, who according to the Markandeya Purana had incarnated to kill the demon Mahishasura. The Indian Standard Time (IST) line passes through the Vindhyachal railway station. Located about 172 km east of Chitrakoot and 64 km west of Varanasi, the temple is a shakti peeth and town are visited in large numbers of devotees daily.
There are several temples of other deities in the vicinity, the most famous ones being the Ashtabhuja Devi Temple and the Kalikhoh Temple. There is a parikrama or circumambulation which forms a Trikona Parikrama or a triangular circumambulation which is a common ritual here. The temples are the Maa Vindhyavasini Devi Temple, dedicated to Goddess Durga, the Kali Khoh temple, dedicated to Goddess Maha Kali and the Ashtabhuja temple, dedicated to Goddess Maha Saraswati.
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The Vindhyavasini Devi Temple is what makes Vindhyachal famous is situated on the banks of the river Ganga. Goddess Vindhyavasini is believed to be an instant bestower of benediction and is one of the most revered Siddha Peeths of the presiding deity, Vindhyavasini Devi. The temple is visited by large number of people daily with large congregations held during Navratras in the month of Chaitra in April and Ashwin in October. Kajali competitions are held in the month of Jyestha or June.
Kali Khoh temple is dedicated to Goddess Kali and is in the form of a cave. Goddess Kali is believed to be incarnated to kill the demon Raktabeej who had a boon that every droplet of his blood will give birth to another Raktabeej right away. This made killing the demon extremely difficult. It is believed that Ma Kali stretched her tongue all over the ground and licked all the blood and swallowed all his duplicates. This temple is just 2 km from the Vindhyavasini Devi temple.
The Ashtabhuja Temple is dedicated to Goddess Saraswati who is associated with literature and knowledge or vidya. Ashtabhuja who is Lord Krishna’s sister, had been escaping king Kansa’s trap who tried to kill her and finally found shelter here.
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The Kankali Devi temple gets its name from Kankal which means a skeleton and Maa Kali. It is said that when Asuri sena or demon army attacked Maa Durga known for her calm and smiling face, she turned into Ma Kali due to fury and agitation and held their heads. Her anger was so extreme that the whole body dried up and only the skeleton remained.
Sita Kund is where, according to legend, is where Lord Lakshmana pierced an arrow in the ground to draw water in the form of a fountain for Goddess Sits when she was thirsty.
Ram Gaya Ghat which is at a distance of about 2 km from Vindhyachal is believed to be where Lord Ram offered prayers for the attainment of peace for his dead fathers soul.
Varanasi on the banks of the river Ganges is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Also known as Benares, it lies about 64 km east of Vidhyachal and about 322 km south of Lucknow. A major religious hub in India, it is the holiest of the seven sacred cities in Hinduism and Jainism, and played an important role in the development of Buddhism and Ravidassia. Varanasi grew as an important industrial centre famous for its muslin and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculpture. Buddha is believed to have founded Buddhism here around 528 BC when he gave his first sermon, The Setting in Motion of the Wheel of Dharma, at nearby Sarnath. The city’s religious importance continued to grow in the 8th century, when Adi Shankara established the worship of Shiva as an official sect of Varanasi. During the Muslim rule through the Middle Ages, the city continued as an important centre of Hindu devotion, pilgrimage, mysticism and poetry which further contributed to its reputation as a centre of cultural importance and religious education. Tulsidas wrote his epic poem on Rama’s life called Ram Charit Manas in Varanasi. Several other major figures of the Bhakti movement were born in Varanasi, including Kabir and Ravidas. The Sikh guru, Guru Nanak visited Varanasi for Maha Shivaratri in 1507, a trip that played a large role in the founding of Sikhism.
Chandradeva, founder of the Gahadavala dynasty made Banaras a second capital in 1090 and after fall of the Pala Empire, the Chero dynasty ruled Varanasi till the Mughal rule. In the 16th century, Varanasi had a cultural revival under the Mughal emperor Akbar who patronised the city, and built two large temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. In 1656, the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb ordered the destruction of many temples and the building of mosques, causing the city to experience a temporary setback. However, after Aurangzeb’s death, most of India was ruled by a confederacy of pro-Hindu kings and much of modern Varanasi was built during this time, especially during the 18th century by the Maratha and Bhumihar Brahmin rulers. The kings governing Varanasi continued to wield power and importance through much of the British Raj period right up to India’s independence in 1947 when the kingdom of Benaras was ceded to the Union of India.
Traditional etymology links Varanasi to the names of the two Ganges tributaries forming the city’s borders: Varuna, still flowing in northern Varanasi, and Assi, today a small stream in the southern part of the city, near the Assi Ghat. The old city is located on the north shores of the Ganges, bounded by Varuna and Assi. In the Rigveda, the city is referred to as Kasi or Kashi from the Sanskrit verbal root kas which means to shine, making it known as the City of Light. The name was also used by pilgrims dating from the Buddha’s days. According to Hindu mythology, Varanasi was founded by Lord Shiva. During a fight between Brahma and Shiva, one of Brahma’s five heads was torn off by Shiva and as was the custom, the victor carried the slain adversary’s head in his hand and let it hang down from his hand as an act of ignominy, and a sign of his own bravery and also put a bridle into the mouth, dishonouring Lord Brahma’s head, and kept it with him at all times. When he came to the city of Varanasi in this state, the hanging head of Lord Brahma dropped from Lord Shiva’s hand and disappeared in the ground. Varanasi is therefore considered an extremely holy site.
Closely associated with the Ganges, Hindus believe that dying here and getting cremated along the banks of the holy Ganges allows one to break the cycle of rebirth and attain salvation. Kashi Naresh or the King of Kashi is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi, and an essential part of all religious celebrations. Varanasi was also where the Benares gharana form of Hindustani classical music was developed and it is also home to one of Asia’s largest residential universities, Banaras Hindu University or BHU. Excavations in 2014 led to the discovery of artefacts dating back to 800 BC with further excavations at Aktha and Ramnagar unearthing artefacts dating back to 1800 BC, supporting the view that the area was inhabited by that time.
Situated on the western bank of the Ganga, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas or temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. The main deity of Kashi Vishwanath Temple is Lord Shiva, also known as Vishwanatha or Vishweshwarar meaning the ruler of the universe. The temple has 800 kg of gold plating on its tower. The very first mention of the temple can be found in the Puranas including the Kashi Khanda section of the Skanda Purana. The temple has seen complete annihilation and rebuilding many times with the first time in 1194 by Qutb-ud-din Aibak’s army when he defeated the King of Kannauj. The temple was rebuilt during the rule of Delhi’s Iltutmish and was demolished again during Sikander Lodhi’s time. Raja Man Singh rebuilt the temple during Mughal Emperor Akbar’s rule and in 1669, Emperor Aurangzeb destroyed the temple and built the Gyanvapi Mosque in its place. The temple was finally rebuilt in 1780 by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore and comprises of two domes covered in gold donated by the Sikh King Ranjit Singh, while the Bhosales of Nagpur donated silver to the temple.
The Kashi Vishwanath Temple is a collection of smaller shrines that are located in the temple complex with the main temple constructed in the form of a quadrangle and surrounded by the shrines dedicated to other deities. Made out of black stone, the main Shivalinga is 60 cm tall and 90 cm in circumference and is enshrined in a silver altar. A holy well, Gyaan Vapi here is believed to be where the Shivalinga was hidden to protect it from foreign invaders. This well is only accessible to Hindus. The structure of the temple is composed of three parts with the first part a spire, the second, a golden dome and the third a gold spire atop the temple carrying a flag and a trident. On the outside, the temple is adorned with intricate carvings. It is widely believed that a visit to the temple followed by a dip in the Ganges is the way to attain liberation or moksha and another belief states that Lord Shiva himself whispers the mantras of salvation into the ears of the people who die naturally at the temple.
In ancient times, on special occasions, the King of Kashi or Kashi Naresh used to pray first when the temple was closed to devotees who could only enter the temple after the king had finished his prayers. Today, devotees must follow a strict dress code of sarees for women and a dhoti and kurta for men, especially if they want to pray within the sanctum sanctorum. Devotees dressed otherwise will be allowed to worship the deity outside the sanctum sanctorum. Cameras, mobile phones and other electronic devices are not allowed inside and must be deposited in lockers outside. Foreigners can enter from Gate number 2 from where they can walk past. The temple’s Mangala Aarti takes place between 3 – 4 am and there are other aartis throughout the day with the last one, the Shayana Aarti taking place between 10:30 to 11 pm.
The Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple is situated by the Assi river and was built in the 1900s by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya and is dedicated to Lord Rama and Lord Hanuman. Everyone visiting the city does not fail to visit this temple. The laddoo offered at this temple as an offering is amous among the locals and one needs to be aware of the monkeys who throng the temple premises and try to steal away the offerings, but are said to be harmless.
The New Vishwanath Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva on the premises of the Banaras Hindu University. The temple also consists of nine other temples within it incorporating elements from the Hindu cosmos. The foundation of the temple was laid down in 1931 and the temple was completed in 1966. The path leading to the temple is lined with dense trees and offers marvellous views of the architecture with each part of the temple designed intricately including the balconies, pavilions and spires. Several sculptures of various animals like the bull, crocodile, lion and are dotted in the area of the temple. The richly decorated hall has pillars and is mostly made of lambent marble and stands at 77 meters high. Its tower, the shikhara, are said to the tallest in the world with the Bhagavad Gita and other scriptures, are engraved in the marble walls and the idol of Lord Shiva rests on the upper floor in a marble room with the balcony on the upper floor offering a beautiful view. The temple opens early at 2:30 am for the Mangala Aarti and devotees with tickets can pray between 3 and 4 am and then open to the general public from 4 to 11 am and then again between 12 noon and 7 pm and again at 9 pm when the lord can only be viewed from the outside. The last aarti is the Shayana Aarti which starts at 10:30 pm and then the temple is closed at 11 pm.
Constructed in 1964, the Tulsi Manasa Temple is dedicated to Lord Rama and is named after the saint poet Tulsidas. It displays the Shikhara style of architecture and exhibits various inscriptions from the Ram Charit Manas on the walls of the temple. Various episodes of Ramayana have also been depicted on the upper storey of the temple in the form of carvings. The temple is a must visit during the months of Saawan which happens in July – August when it opens up a special display of puppets, related to the Ramayana, and is a wonderful experience.
Located near the Durga Ghat on the banks of the Ganga, the Durga Temple was built in the 18th century and houses an imposing idol of Goddess Durga and is one of the main temples in Varanasi.
One of the oldest temples in the city, the Nepali Temple is a 19th century shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. It was established by the King of Nepal and is a spitting image of the Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu. The architecture of the temple is traditional and is made of stone, terracotta and wood carvings.
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Famous for being a place of worship for the aghoris and tantriks, the Batuk Bhairav Mandir is dedicated to Batuk Bhairav, an incarnation of Lord Shiva. An interesting feature of the temple is the sacred Akhand Deep which is believed to be burning for ages with the oil from this lamp said to have healing powers.
The Bharat Mata Mandir is a unique shrine dedicated to the country in the incarnation of Mother India. The temple does not have any deity, but a relief map of the country carved in marble. The brainchild of Babu Shiv Prasad Gupta, a freedom fighter, the temple was built in 1936 and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi and is the only one dedicated to a country in the world.
The Ganga Aarti is an important ritual held every morning and evening on the banks of the Ganga. priests perform the Aarti at the Dashashwamedh Ghat and the entire ghat is illuminated. The ritual involves huge brass lamps lit with oil with the priests chanting holy mantras.
The Gyan Vapi Well is a sacred well located inside the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The water of the well was considered to be holier than the water of the River Ganga before it was polluted by offerings made by pilgrims. It is said that when Emperor Aurangzeb attacked the old temple, the temple priest threw the Shivalinga into the well and jumped inside to protect it.
Alamgir Mosque is a 17th century structure built by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, on land which once had a Shiva Temple and was demolished by him. The mosque is an architecturally stunning building built according to the Indo-Islamic style of architecture with beautiful minarets and high domes.
St. Mary’s Church is 200 years old, the oldest church in the town and the oldest standing garrison church in South Asia. Established in 1810 by Reverend George Weatly, the church was an important part of the European and British community in Varanasi.
It is believed that the Dashashwamedh Ghat was where Lord Brahma performed the Dasa Ashwamedha sacrifice. A visit during Kartik Purnima, about November/December, is when the Ghat is lit up for the Dev Diwali festivities. The Ghat is famous for the Ganga Aarti conducted every evening, with thousands visiting it daily.
The Assi Ghat is located at the confluence of the Rivers Assi and Ganga and is famous for the large Shiva Lingam installed under a peepal or sacred fig tree. It has immense religious importance and has been mentioned in the Puranas and various legends. The ghat is the heart of Varanasi and has amazing views of the sunset and sunrise over the Ganges. The Ghat has started a morning aarti which is a must watch. According to an ancient legend, Assi Ghat came about when Goddess Durga threw her sword in the river after killing a demon and the spot where she stood became the ghat. Subah-e-Benaras is a unique programme started on 24 November 2014 where people gather at Assi Ghat early in the morning to witness the sunrise and a boat ride tour. In the summer months, this programme takes place from 5 to 7 am and during winters, from 5:40 to 7:30 am. At the ghat, Mahashivatri is celebrated in a grand scale when thousands gather to perform a pooja and take a dip in the Ganga. The Ganga Mahotsav is organised in the Ghat from Prabodhni Ekadashi till Dev Deepawali, a mega three-day celebration with pujas and rituals and classical music performances. On the day of Ganga Dussehra, celebrated on the tenth day of Jayeshtha, which is peak summer, so about May, when devotees observe a fast, perform rituals and pujas at the ghat and the take a dip in the Ganges. The ghat is lit up with fairs, people singing devotional songs and floating lamps in the river. On Dev Deepawali, on all the ghats, lit clay lamps are flated in the river.
Kedar Ghat is one of the oldest ghats in Varanasi and is considered cleaner for bathing and offering prayers to Lord Shiva at the Kedareshwar Temple. The Shivala Ghat has a number of historic monuments around. The mansion of the King of Nepal, is located next to the Ghat, also is the Chet Singh Fortress with stunning views of the river from the ghat. Built by Maharaja Mann Singh of Jaipur in the early 17th century, the Manmandir Ghat is famous for the palace built by him and an observatory built in 1710 by Savai Jaisingh II. On the northern side of the Ghat is a stone balcony from where visitors can get a beautiful view of River Ganga. Manikarnika Ghat is considered as a gateway to the next and it is believed that spending the last few days of life at the ghat and completing the rituals of cremation here will ensure a painless passing and also a way to attain freedom from the endless cycle of birth and death.
Vindham Waterfalls is a gorgeous waterfall in Mirzapur about 90 kms from Varanasi close to the Tanda fountains, caves and temples and is local favourite picnic spot. The Lakhaniya Dari Waterfall is situated around 48 kms from Varanasi in Latifpur and are a hidden gem from the din and chaos of the city. It is especially popular among trekkers and adventure enthusiasts with the falls reached through a small trek in the hills. The Rajdari Waterfalls are located in Chandauli, 60 kms from Varanasi. The beautiful waterfalls are a popular picnic spot and the huge waterfall gushing down the cliffs are a visual delight with the top of the falls offering beautiful views of the valley below. The Devdari Waterfall located about 65 kms from Varanasi is a beautiful spot with cascading silvery water amidst lush green surroundings. Falling down a height of 58 metres, the waterfalls are a popular tourist spot. The Mukkha Falls are situated 60 kms from Varanasi and are in close proximity to the Lakhaniya Cave Paintings and look their best during the monsoon. Tanda Falls, 80 km from Varanasi comes alive during the monsoons when the gushing waterfalls is sparkling and in full glory.
Located on the eastern banks of the river Ganga, opposite Tulsi Ghat, Ramnagar Fort is a stunning 18th century historical monument built by Raja Balwant Singh in 1750 according to the Mughal style of architecture. The current King of Benaras, currently resides in the Fort. The fort features carved balconies, open courtyards, and scenic pavilions.
Chunar Fort is an 11th century fort with a part extending on the rocky and uneven banks of the River Ganga. The fort is a stunning structure to explore with an aesthetic appeal that draws in tourists.
Located about 44 km from Varanasi, Sita Samahit Sthal is a temple and popular pilgrimage spot. Dedicated to Goddess Sita, the temple is said to hold mythical as well as historical importance. It is believed that the temple is where Goddess Sita descended into the earth. The temple premises also houses a 110 feet high statue of Lord Hanuman as well as a quaint pond surrounding the temple. It is believed that the present-day temple is built at the spot where Sita spent her exile with Sage Valmiki in the forest and where she gave birth to her twin sons, Luv and Kush.
Established by Madan Mohan Malviya in 1916, Banaras Hindu University is a 5.3 sq. km campus with about 30,000 students residing in campus and is the largest residential university on the continent. With many notable alumni, the Indo-Gothic architecture and sprawling lawns add to the beauty of the place.
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An archaeological and art museum, the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum exhibits a beautiful collection of over 100,000 sculptures, artefacts, paintings, jewellery, pottery, miniature paintings, manuscripts and textiles ranging from the 1st to the 15th centuries.
The Chandra Prabha Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as Chandraprabha, is located about 70 km south of Varanasi and is filled with beautiful picnic spots, dense forests, and scenic waterfalls. Spread over an area of 78 sq km and lying on the Naugarh and Vijaigarh hillocks on the north slope of the Kaimur Range, with the Karamnasha River, a tributary of the Ganges, and the Chandraprabha River, a tributary of the Karamnasha flowing through the sanctuary, the area was made a hunting preserve for the rulers of Benares in the second half of the 18th century and the wildlife sanctuary was established in May 1957. Asiatic lions were introduced at Chandra Prabha in 1958 with the numbers increasing from three to eleven by 1969. However, the following year the lions were found missing. A variety of wild animals are found here including blackbucks, chital, sambar, nilgai, wild boar, porcupine and chinkara. The park is a bird watcher’s paradise, as one can see around 150 species of birds.
Located 10 km north-east of Varanasi, near the confluence of the Ganga and the Varuna rivers, Sarnath was variously known as as Mrigadava, Migadāya, Rishipattana and Isipatana throughout its history. The Deer Park in Sarnath is where Gautama Buddha first taught the Dharma, and where the Buddhist Sangha came into existence through the enlightenment of Kondanna. Singhpur, a village approximately one km from Sarnath, was the birthplace of Shreyansanath, the eleventh Tirthankara of Jainism with a temple dedicated to him an important pilgrimage site. As Isipatana, Sarnath is mentioned by the Buddha as one of the four places of pilgrimage his devout followers should visit. It was also the site of the Buddha’s Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta, which was his first sermon after attaining enlightenment, in which he explained the four noble truths and the teachings associated with them.
According to legend, when the Buddha-to-be was born, some devas came down to announce it to 500 rishis. Another explanation for the name is that Isipatana was named because, sages, on their way from the Himalayas through the air, alight here or start from here on their aerial flight. Pacceka Buddhas, having spent seven days in contemplation in the Gandhamādana, bathe in the Anotatta Lake and come to the habitations of men through the air, in search of alms. Sarnath derives from the Sanskrit Saranganatha, which means the Lord of the Deer, and relates to another old Buddhist story in which the Bodhisattva is a deer and offers his life to a king instead of the doe the latter is planning to kill. The king is so moved that he creates the park as a sanctuary for deer. That park is still in use today.
Revered for being spot or Rishipattana where Lord Buddha revealed his first eightfold path sermon, the Dhamek Stupa is the main stupa in Sarnath. King Ashoka renovated the existing pre-Buddhism structure in the 3rd century BC and the cylindrical stupa is made entirely out of bricks with a diameter of 28 metres. Elaborate murals, wall carvings and a small museum after the entrance provide insights into the monument’s details and the Buddha’s teachings. Halfway across Dhamek Stupa, there are arched niches and dilapidated statues of the. There is a daily light and sound show at 6 pm. Entry tickets to the stupa are INR 20 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners and the stupa is open from 6 am to 5 pm daily.
The Sarnath Archaeological Site is where the Buddha began to preach his sermons and is built around the main Dhamek Stupa and its gardens. It is also home to the legendary lion memorial pillar built by King Ashoka, the current Indian national emblem, both of which are maintained by the ASI as well as the Sarnath Museum across the road. Over the centuries, various Buddhist kings have added small and large temples built with exceptionally well-preserved Chunar sandstone. Buddhist monks would worship the exquisite statue of the seated Buddha, the first idol ever built. When villagers started stealing bricks and stones from this seemingly endless source, British officials protected the area in 1904. The Archaeological Site is open from 8 am to 6 pm daily and has an entry fee of INR 20 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners.
The Chaukhandi Stupa is regarded as one of the most important monuments of Buddhism. Built where the Buddha first met his five ascetics, to whom he later went on to preach his first teachings, the stupa is an evolution over burial mounds and serves as a shrine. It is widely believed that during the Gupta Period between the 4th and 6th centuries, the Chaukhandi Stupa was actually built as a terraced temple and most historians believe that Emperor Ashoka built this square edifice. Later, Prince Govardhan, the son of the then reigning king, erected an octagonal Mughal tower surrounding the square edifice of the stupa to its present form in honour of a visit of Emperor Humayun. But historians argue it was, in fact, Emperor Akbar who built the octagonal tower in 1585 to commemorate Emperor Humayun’s visit to the shrine. The Chaukhandi Stupa is mainly built of brick and is quite fragile and is now in the hands of the Archaeological Survey of India. Named after its shape, the stupa is a square edifice which stands on a basement that consists of three terraces, each 12 feet broad and 12 feet high. The overall height of the structure is about 200 feet with the core of the structure made of solid brickwork in clay mortar, and the terraces supported on rows of hollow cells, standing on a rectangular plinth and surrounded by a mighty octagonal tower. The Chaukhandi Stupa is open from 6 am to 5 pm with Indians paying INR 5 and foreigners INR 100. Children below the age of 15 can enter free.
The Mahabodhi Society Temple is an ancient temple, built in the Gupta period entirely out of bricks. It is said that this is where the Buddha attained enlightenment. When the monk, Dharmapala from Sri Lanka encountered the dilapidated condition of the temple, he campaigned to collect funds and revive the temple which was built next to the archaeological site, a replica of the original shrine. Japanese artists were hired to paint the walls and frescoes and Dharmapala collected some ashes of the Buddha, preserved in Myanmar, and stored it at the temple. Propagated from Gaya to Sri Lanka and back to Sarnath, the Mahabodhi tree at this temple is revered as a relic of the Buddha himself.
The national emblem of India and a mark of Emperor Ashoka’s visit to Sarnath, the Ashoka Pillar is an impressive structure with four lions at the top. This 50 m long pillar along with the Dhamek Stupa, are Emperor Ashoka’s gifts with the complex filled with lush greenery. India’s oldest archaeological museum has been built at the periphery of the complex. A bull, a lion, an elephant and a horse are depicted on the base of the Ashoka Pillar which symbolises the four different phases of Gautam Buddha’s life. There are also prayer wheels in the compound with beautiful carvings of Om Mani Padme Hum in Sanskrit. The graphic representation of the Ashoka Pillar and the words ‘Satyamev Jayate’ written below in Devanagari have been adopted as the official Emblem of India. The Ashoka Pillar is only a part of the Ashokan Pillar which comprises of three parts with four lions sitting on the top of Ashoka Chakra. The Ashoka Chakra, the wheel of which is also a part of the national flag of India contains four wheels on different directions with four different animals between them. The Ashoka Chakra rests on an inverted lotus which is the second part of the pillar. These two are collectively known as the Ashoka’s Lion Capital or more commonly as The Capital. The Capital of the Ashokan Pillar at Sarnath is broken but is one the displays at the Archaeological Museum. The drum on which four animals are carved represent the four cardinal directions with the horse representing the west, the ox, the east, the elephant, the south, and the lion, north. The animals following one another signify the wheel of existence with the lotus, also the base, is a symbol of Buddhism. The Pillar is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days except Fridays when it is closed. Entry fee is INR 5 for adults.
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The Thai Temple displays the That style of architecture and is is set amongst beautiful gardens and managed by Thai Buddhist monks. The Tibetan Temple has been decorated with Thangkas, Tibetan Buddhist paintings and features a statue of Shakyamuni, the Buddha. The Prayer Wheels seen outside, which on being rotated clockwise, release paper scrolls with prayers written on them. The temple was where Lord Buddha taught his disciples the four truths of life. The Chinese Temple is a colourful shrine dedicated to Lord Buddha and built according to the Chinese and Buddhist architectural style. The temple has a spacious meditation hall where visitors can meditate in silence.
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Established in 1910, the Archaeological Museum displays a small collection of artefacts ranging from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century AD. The museum at Sarnath is the oldest museum under Archeological Survey of India. With more than six thousand sculptures and artworks, the museum was completed in 1910. Similar to a monastery in structure, the massive complex has five different galleries showcasing artefacts from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century AD. The Lion Capital of Ashoka is displayed right at the centre of the entrance hall and is also called the Shakyasimha gallery. A huge Bodhisattva built of red sandstone and several portraits of Lord Buddha are on display. The entrance south to the Shakyasimha gallery is the Triratna exhibiting several associated objects with Lord Buddha ranging from images of Stupas to intricate inscriptions. The Tathagata Gallery has Lord Buddha in his different moods and attitudes and the caricature of Lord Shiva with a cup of poison beside him. The Trimurti gallery is named after the three supreme gods, Lords Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh and houses images of them along with figures of birds and heads of males and females. There are two verandahs in the south and north side of the museum with architectural pieces on display. The northern verandah has carvings of fauna and flora with sculptures of Gods and Goddesses while the south verandah has stones, lintels, pedestals, and faces on display.
An important Buddhist pilgrimage site and an international Buddhist pilgrimage centre, Kushinagar is where Buddhists believe Gautama Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana after his death. Located about 230 km northeast of Sarnath and 55 km west of Gorakhpur, Kushinagar was the capital of the Kosala Kingdom according to one theory and according to the Ramayana was built by King Kush, the son of Lord Rama. According to Buddhist tradition Kushavati was named prior to the King Kush and is supposed to be due to an abundance of the Kush grass found in this region. The present day Kushinagar is identified with Kusavati in the pre-Buddha period and Kushinara in the post-Buddha period. Kushinara was the capital of Mallas, one of the sixteen mahajanpads of the 6th century BC. Since then, it remained an integral part of the erstwhile empires of Maurya, Shunga, Kushana, Gupta, Harsha, and Pala dynasties. In the medieval period, Kushinagar passed under the suzerainty of the Kultury kings and continued to be a living city till the 12th century, after which it was lost into oblivion. Modern Kushinagar came into prominence in the 19th century with archaeological excavations carried out which exposed the main stupa and also discovered a 6.10 meters long statue of the reclining Buddha in 1876. Excavations continued in the early 20th century, uncovering a wealth of Buddhist materials. Chandra Swami, a Burmese monk, came to India in 1903 and made the Mahaparinirvana Temple into a living shrine. It is believed that Lord Buddha died in Kushinagar after which Emperor Ashoka built a stupa here to mark the parinirvana site. The stupa houses the reclining nirvana statue of Buddha which depicts the “dying Buddha” reclining of the right side. Other places of prominence here include Nirvana Chaitya, Rambhar Stupa, and Matha Kuar Shrine apart from some tiny temples.
The reclining Nirvana statue of the Buddha is inside the Parinirvana Stupa. The statue is 6.10 metres long and is made of monolith red sandstone. It represents the Dying Buddha reclining on his right side with his face towards the west. It is placed on a large brick pedestal with stone-posts at the corners. The Nirvana Chaitya or Main Stupa is located just behind the Main Parinirvana Temple. It was excavated by Carlleyle in 1876 and during excavations, a copper plate was found, which contained the text of the Nidana-Sutra which concluded the statement that plate had been deposited in the Nirvana-Chaitya by one Haribala, who also installed the great Nirvana Statue of Buddha in the temple front. The Ramabhar Stupa, also called a Mukutbandhan-Chaitya, is the cremation place of Buddha, 1.5 km east of the main Nirvana Temple. The Matha Kuar Shrine has a colossal statue of Buddha installed, carved out of single block which represents Buddha seated under the Bodhi Tree in a pose known as Bhumi Sparsh Mudra or the earth touching attitude. The inscription at the base of statue is dated to the 10th or 11th century. The Wat Thai Temple is also known as the Wat Thai Kushinara Chalermaraj Temple and is a place of worship established by the Thai Buddhist community with a distinct architecture. This unique temple features a beautiful garden, a fully functioning school, an extensive library and a monastery. Other major places include the Indo-Japan-Sri Lanka Temple which is a marvel of Buddhist architecture, the Meditation Park, located close to the Nirvana Temple with lush greenery and flowers to create a peaceful environment, several museums, meditation parks and temples based on the architecture of various countries as well as ruins and brick structures located around the main Nirvana Temple and Main Stupa which are the remains of various monasteries of different sizes constructed when the town was thriving.
This ends the series on Uttar Pradesh, one of the longest I’ve done. But the state is filled with so much to offer visitors that it is definitely one of the places I want to visit.
Ayodhya 135 km east of Lucknow lies our next destination, the holy town of Ayodhya, the birthplace of Lord Rama. The city is identified by some with the legendary city of Ayodhya, and the birthplace of Lord Rama and the setting of the epic Ramayana. Modern scholars variously believe that the present-day Ayodhya is same as the legendary Ayodhya, or that the legendary city is a mythical place that came to be identified with the present-day Ayodhya only during the Gupta period around the 4th and 5th centuries. The present-day city is identified as the location of Saketa, an important city of the Kosala mahajanapada in the first millennium BC, and later served as its capital. Early Buddhist and Jain canonical texts mention that the religious leaders Gautama Buddha and Mahavira visited and lived in the city. Jain texts also describe it as the birthplace of five tirthankaras namely, Rishabhanatha, Ajitanatha, Abhinandananatha, Sumatinath and Anantnath, and associate it with the legendary chakravartins. From the Gupta period onwards, several sources mention Ayodhya and Saketa as the name of the same city.
Because it is believed as the birthplace of Lord Rama, Ayodhya has been regarded as one of the seven most important pilgrimage sites or Saptapuri for Hindus. It is believed that the birth spot of Rama was marked by a temple, which is said to have been demolished by the orders of the Mughal emperor Babur and a disputed mosque erected in its place. In 1992, it led to the demolition of the Babri mosque by Hindu mobs with the aim to replace it with a temple of Lord Rama. Ayodhya is a derivation of the Sanskrit verb yudh, which means to fight or to wage a war with yodhya meaning to be fought. The initial A is the negative prefix and so Ayodhya therefore means not to be fought or, more idiomatically in English, Invincible. In the Atharvaveda, it is used to mean the unconquerable city of gods.
Saketa is the older name for the city, attested in Sanskrit, Jain, Sanskrit, Buddhist, Greek and Chinese sources and the word is derived from the Sanskrit words Saha meaning with and Aketen which means houses or buildings. The older name in English was Oudh or Oude, and the princely state it was the capital of until 1856 is still known as Oudh State. Ayodhya was stated to be the capital of the ancient Kosala kingdom in the Ramayana and was also referred to as Kosala.
According to one theory, the legendary Ayodhya is the same as the historical city of Saketa and the present-day Ayodhya. According to another theory, the legendary Ayodhya is a mythical city, and the name Ayodhya came to be used for the Saketa which is present-day Ayodhya only around the fourth century, when a Gupta emperor, probably Skandagupta moved his capital to Saketa, and renamed it to Ayodhya after the legendary city. Alternative, but less likely, theories state that Saketa and Ayodhya were two adjoining cities, or that Ayodhya was a locality within the Saketa city.
In 2003, the Archaeological Survey of India or ASI carried out an excavation at the mosque site to determine if it was built over the ruins of a temple. The excavation uncovered pillar bases indicating a temple had been in existence under the mosque. Besides Hindus, the Buddhist and Jain representatives claimed that their temples existed at the excavated site.
Some South Koreans have identified the Ayuta mentioned in their ancient Samgungnyusa legend with Ayodhya. According to this legend, the ancient Korean princess Heo Hwang-ok came from Ayuta. In the 2000s, the local government of Ayodhya and South Korea acknowledged the connection and held a ceremony to raise a statue of the princess. The cities of Ayutthaya in Thailand, and Yogyakarta in Indonesia, are named after Ayodhya.
Translating to Ram’s Birthplace, the Ram Janmabhoomi is believed to have been the birthplace of Lord Ram. According to the Ramayana, Lord Ram, Lord Vishnu’s seventh manifestation, is said to have grown up along Ayodhya’s river Sarayu. After being a conflicted site for decades, the land was handed over to a trust by the Supreme Court of India to build the Ram Temple. The temple site is where the Babri Masjid once stood. It is believed that the Mughals demolished a Hindu shrine to build the mosque at the birthplace of Lord Ram. In 1992, a group of Hindu nationalists tore down the Babri Masjid which led to a series of violent riots across India. In October 2019, a bench of five judges of the Supreme Court ordered the land to be handed over to a trust to build the Ram Temple with an alternate piece of land of 5 acres given to the Sunni Waqf Board to build a mosque.
Hanuman Garhi is a 10th century temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is one of the most important temples in Ayodhya as it is customary to visit the Hanuman Garhi temple before visiting the Ram Temple. It is believed that Lord Hanuman lived at the site of the temple guarding Ayodhya. To reach the hilltop temple one needs to climb a staircase with 76 steps which is located at the entrance. Housed within is a 6-inch-tall idol of Hanuman. The main temple has an interior cave adorned with numerous statues of Lord Hanuman along with his mother, Maa Anjani. The festivals of Rama Navami and Hanuman Jayanti, which celebrate the birth of Lord Ram and Lord Hanuman respectively, attract thousands of devotees to the Hanuman Garhi. The temple is open between 5 am and 11 pm daily.
Established towards the northeastern corner of the Ram Janmabhoomi, Kanak Bhawan was constructed in 1891. Also known as Sone-ka-Ghar, the temple is dedicated to Lord Rama and his wife, Goddess Sita. Kanak Bhawan, which means a Golden Palace, has three golden-crowned idols of the Lord Rama and Goddess Sita under a silver roof in the sanctum sanctorum or the garbha griha. It is believed that this shrine was gifted to Rama and Sita by the former’s stepmother, Kaikeyi. Renovated during King Vikramaditya’s reign, the present site was further entirely revamped by Vrish Bhanu Kunwari. This Bundela-styled temple is currently managed by the Sri Vrishbhan Dharma Setu Trust and is open between 8 and 11 am and then again between 4:30 and 9 pm. Aarti timings in summer are between 8 and 9 am and between 7 and 8 pm and during winters from 8:30 to 9:30 am and 6:30 to 7:30 pm.
Established in the name of the local deity, Lord Nageshwarnath, the Nageshwarnath Temple is located adjacent to Theri Bazaar and is believed to have been set up by Kush or Kusha, Lord Rama’s son. In good condition since 750 AD, the current temple is said to have been reconstructed in 1750 by Safar Jung’s minister, Naval Rai. Legend has it that Kush came across a Shiva devotee called Naga Kanya when he happened to lose his arm ring in the local bath. Upon learning that the latter had fallen in love with him, he raised this Shiva temple for the Naga Kanya. The Nageshwarnath Temple attracts numerous devotees during Mahashivaratri and Trayodashi, also known as Pradosh Vrat. The Shiva Barat or the procession of Lord Shiva is a significant attraction here. The temple is open from 5 am to 8 pm and aartis take place between 5 and 6 am and 8 and 8:30 am.
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Situated along the Naya Ghat, the Treta Ke Thakur Temple houses numerous idols including that of Lord Ram, Goddess Sita, Lord Lakshman, Lord Hanuman, Bharat and Sugreev. These statues are said to have been sculpted out of a single black sandstone. The temple is believed to have been constructed 300 years ago by a local king named Kullu and is said is to stand where the famous Ashwamedha Yagna performed by Lord Rama took place. The temple was renovated in the 1700s by the Maratha queen, Ahilyabai Holkar. It is open to the public only once a year on a day marked as Prabodhini Ekadashi which is eleventh lunar day in the bright fornight of the month of Karthika and corresponds to roughly October/November. On this day colourful celebrations with traditional customs are carried out. On this day the temple is open for 24 hours.
Situated on the north-western side of the Ram Janmanhoomi, Sita ki Rasoi is believed to be an ancient kitchen used by Goddess Sita. Built quite close to the Ram Janmabhoomi, this site is now a temple housing some utensils. One among the two kitchens in Goddess Sita’s name, this is a basement kitchen. The other end of the temple has richly clothed and embellished idols of Lord Ram, Lord Lakshman, Bharat and Shatrughana and their wives Goddess Sita, Urmila, Mandavi and Srutakirti. Worshipped as the Goddess of Food, Sita is also known as Goddess Annapurna and so the temple follows this tradition by offering free food to all those who visit. Visitors can also donate any amount of money for charity here. The temple is open between 8 am and 6 pm daily.
Located on the banks of river Sarayu in Ayodhya’s twin city Faizabad, Raja Mandir has been associated with numerous mythological stories time and again. The temple houses stunningly carved idols of many Hindu Gods and Goddess, which are clad in silken fabrics and rich jewellery. Once known for its association with Lord Sri Rama, the shrine is now a regular temple. From the temple, the reflection of the shrine on the water is beautiful. The temple is open between sunrise and sunset.
Located in the heart of the town, Dashrath Bhavan is the residence of King Dashrath, father to Lord Sri Ram. Popularly known as Bada Asthan or Badi Jagah, Dashrath Mahal houses magnificent shrines of King Ram. Believed to have housed Lord Rama’s childhood and King Dasharath’s capital, this palace hosts a decorated and ornamented entrance with beautiful paintings. Within the palace, there are saffron-clad monks chanting mantras, singing and dancing. Although relatively smaller than what one would imagine a palace to be, Dashrath Bhavan is lit up during festivities like the Ram Vivah, Karthik Mela, Diwali, Ram Navami and Shravan Mela. It is open from 8 am to 12 noon and then between 4 to 10 pm.
Mani Parbat is a tiny hillock situated about 65 feet above sea level. Besides being a great viewpoint, the hillock also houses a stupa built by Emperor Ashoka and a Buddhist monastery. Housing a line of religious shrines, Mani Parbat is located quite close to another hilly mound called the Sugriv Parbat. There is also an Islamic mausoleum at the foothills of the hillock. Legend says that Mani Parbat is said to have fallen into Ayodhya when Lord Hanuman pulled out a mountain while searching for the herb Sanjeevani which was used to treat Lakshman’s fatal wound during the Lanka war. It is also said that this was where from which Lord Rama gave his grand speech of Dharma. Mani Parbat is open from sunrise to sunset.
Also known as Valmiki Bhawan or Maniramdas Chawni, Choti Chawni is a magnificent structure completely crafted out of white marble. There are 34 heritage caves here, with 12 to the south which are Buddhist, 17 in the centre are Hindu and 5 in the north are Jain along with the Kailasha Temple in the caves.
Situated on the banks of river Sarayu, also known as Ghaggar, Guptar Ghat is located in Faizabad near Ayodhya. With a flight of steps leading to the river, this ghat was once the neighbour of the colonial Company Gardens, which is now known as the Gupta Ghat Van. This place is said to be where Lord Rama meditated and undertook the Jal Samadhi in the river, after he attained Baikuntha and descended into heaven as an avatar of Lord Vishnu. Among the several temples situated here, the Sita-Ram temple, the Chakrahari shrine and the Narsingh temple are popular. Revamped in the 1800s and constantly improvised by the government, the Guptar Ghat is currently equipped with modern amenities as well.
Located in Faizabad, the Bahu Begum ka Makbara is popularly known as the Taj Mahal of the East. The mausoleum dedicated to the Queen Bride Begum Unmatuzzohra Bano, wife and queen of Nawab Shuja- ud- Daula and is the tallest monument in Faizabad and is famous for its non-Mughal architectural style. An example of Awadhi architecture, the Bahu Begum ka Makbara has three domes, intricately designed interiors and marvellously done walls and ceilings. Built in 1816, in the memory of the queen where she was buried after death, today the premises are a protected site under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The gardens in front of the complex have been beautifully done, and has a magnificent bird’s eye view of the entire city from the top of the tomb. It is open from 7 am 4 pm.
Also known as the Garden of Roses, the Gulab Bari is the tomb of the third Nawab of Awadh, Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula and his parents. The 18th century structure is constructed in the Nawab style architecture alongside a vast array of rose species in addition to fountains and lush greenery. Listed under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act, Gulab Bari is currently preserved as a part of national heritage. The tomb of his wife, Bahu Begum and her house, popularly known as Moti Mahal are some of the remnants. Erected right at the centre of the Charbagh Garden, this two-storied tombstone is bracketed by endless lines of colourful roses. The garden is open between 4 am and 7 pm.
Popularly known as the Pearl Palace, Moti Mahal is located a few km from Ayodhya in Faizabad. Built in 1743, the palace was a residence of the Queen Begum Unmatuzzohra Banu, wife of the then Nawab Shuja-ud- Daulah and is a fine example of Mughal architecture. It is closed on Saturdays and on Mondays to Fridays, it is open between 12 noon to 11 pm and from 5:30 pm to 11 pm on Sundays.
Established in the memory of the 16th century saint-poet Goswami Tulsidas, the Tulsi Smarak Bhawan is believed to have been where Tulsidas composed the Ramcharita. Located on the eastern end of the National Highway at Rajgang near Ayodhya, the Smarak was built in 1969. In addition to the massive library, a storehouse of rich literature, the Smarak also houses a research centre called the Ayodhya Research Sansthan and exhibits Ramayana art and craft and has a daily recitation of the Ramkatha. In 1988, the Ram Katha Sanghralaya was added here which is a museum and a repository of facts, data and antiques related to the life and times of Lord Sri Ram. Besides the regular prayers, devotional songs and sermons, Tulsi Jayanti is celebrated with much pomp and show on every 7th of the Shravan month. The museum is open from 10 am to 9 pm with a Ramleela performance between 6 to 9 pm. The library is open between 10:30 am and 4:30 pm with the office open between 10 am and 5 pm. It is closed on Mondays and the second Sunday of every month and has no entrance fee.
Sravasti About 100 km north of Ayodhya lies Shravasti, a city of ancient India and one of the six largest cities in India during Gautama Buddha’s lifetime. Located near the west Rapti river and closely associated with the life of Gautama Buddha passed the greater part of his monastic life here and is believed to have spent 24 Chaturmases or 24 monsoon seasons. There are age-old stupas, majestic viharas and several temples near the village of Sahet-Mahet which establish Buddha’s association with Shravasti. It is said that the Vedic period king, Shravasta, founded this town. Shravasti was the capital of the Kosala Kingdom during the 6th century BC to the 6th century AD. This prosperous trading centre was well known for its religious associations. The Sobhanath temple is believed to be the birthplace of the Tirthankara Sambhavanath in Jainism, making Shravasti an important center for Jains as well. According to Nagarjuna, the city had a population of 900,000 in the 5th century BC and it even overshadowed Magadha’s capital, Rajgir. It is also mentioned that a vast fort covered this city in which there were many temples with idols of Devkulikas. Today a great rampart of earth and brick surrounds this city. During excavation in Sahet-Mahet near Shravasti, many ancient idols and inscriptions were found, now kept in museums in Mathura and Lucknow. The Jetavana monastery was a famous monastery close to Shravasti, also known as the main temple of Gautama Buddha.
According to the Mahabharata, Shravasti is named after the legendary king Shrawasta. According to Buddhist tradition, the city was called Savatthi because the sage Savattha lived there. As per the Ramayana, the king of Kosala, Rama, installed his son Lava at Shrawasti and Kusha at Kushavati. The ruins at Saheth and Maheth on the boundaries of the Gonda and Bahraich districts are believed to be the site of ancient Shravasti. Maheth was the city-proper while the Jetavana monastery was at Saheth. Of the ancient Shravasti, the city walls are still standing. Within these, the remains of three ancient buildings can be visited: Angulimala’s stupa, Anathapindika’s stupa, and an old temple dedicated to a Jain Tirthankara Sambhavanatha.
Outside of Shravasti is located the stupa where the Twin Miracle took place. The site of Jetavana monastery is the main pilgrim destination, with meditation and chanting mainly done at the Gandhakuti or the Buddha’s hut and the Anandabodhi tree. Buddhist monasteries from the many countries have been constructed at here including Thailand, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Tibet, and China. Visitors should also plan a visit to Balrampur,at a distance of 17 km from Sravasti which is famous for its shrines and contemporary architectural styles. The Suhaildev Wildlife Sanctuary is spread over an area of 452 sq km and was established in 1988 close to the India-Nepal border. The sanctuary houses the rare Grey Francolin. Another unique feature of the sanctuary is the presence of the Tharu Tribe, who with mongoloid features have been residents of this area for centuries and are wholly dependent on the forest land for their survival and livelihood.
Prayagraj 277 km south of Shravasti and 168 km south of Ayodhya lies the city of Prayagraj. Previously known as Allahabad, Prayagraj is the most populous district in the state and the 13th most populous district in India. The city is the judicial capital of the state with the Allahabad High Court being the highest judicial body in the state. Lying close to the Triveni Sangam, the three-river confluence of the Ganges, Yamuna and Sarasvati rivers, the city plays a central role in Hindu scriptures and finds its earliest reference as one of the world’s oldest known cities in Hindu texts and has been venerated as the holy city of Prayaga in the ancient Vedas.
Prayagraj was also known as Kosambi in the late Vedic period, named by the Kuru rulers of Hastinapur, who developed it as their capital and was one of the greatest cities in India from the late Vedic period until the end of the Maurya Empire, with occupation continuing until the Gupta Empire. Since then, the city has been a political, cultural and administrative centre of the Doab region and was the provincial capital of the Mughal Empire in the early 17th century under the reign of Emperor Jahangir. In 1833 it became the seat of the Ceded and Conquered Provinces region before its capital was moved to Agra in 1835 and became the capital of the North-Western Provinces in 1858 and was even the capital of India for a day. The city was the capital of the United Provinces from 1902 to 1920 and remained at the forefront of national importance during the struggle for Indian independence.
The location at the confluence of Ganges and Yamuna rivers has been known in ancient times as Prayaga, which means a place of a sacrifice in Sanskrit as it was believed that Lord Brahma performed the very first sacrifice or yagna here. The word prayaga has traditionally used to mean a confluence of rivers and here it means the physical meeting point of the rivers Ganges and Yamuna while an ancient tradition has it that a third river, the invisible Sarasvati, also meets there with the two. Today, Triveni Sangam, or simply Sangam is a more frequently used name for the confluence. The city plays host to the one of the largest Hindu gathering on the banks of the Sangam, the Maha Kumbh Mela, which takes place once every 12 years to celebrate a revolution of the planet Jupiter or Brihaspati.
It is said that the Mughal emperor Akbar visited the region in 1575 and was so impressed by the strategic location of the site that he ordered a fort be constructed. The fort was constructed by 1584 and called Ilahabas or the Abode of God, which later changed to Allahabad under Emperor Shah Jahan. Speculations regarding its name however, exist with some believing that it was named by Emperor Jahangir after he failed to destroy the Akshayavat tree. After being called Allahabad for centuries, it was finally renamed Prayagraj in October 2018.
One of the holiest places in north India, the Triveni Sangam is located about 7 km Prayagraj and is the meeting point of three rivers, the Ganga, Yamuna, and the mythical underground river Saraswati, supposed to have dried up more than 4,000 years ago. It is also where the Kumbh Mela is held once every 12 years. According to Hindu mythology, taking a bath in the Triveni Sangam is supposed to remove all sins and free the person from the cycle of rebirth. The brownish Ganga meeting the slightly greenish Yamuna and a boat ride at this point will show the differences in the colours of the rivers. There are makeshift wooden banks which can be used for bathing. Triveni Sangam is mentioned in the sacred texts multiple times and it is said that during the battle between the Gods and the demons, drops of nectar, which can turn one immortal, fell here which makes Prayagraj Tirthraja or The King of Holy Places, which is why the Kumbh Mela is organised here. According to other legends, the Prakrista Yajna was also performed by Lord Brahma here and that Lord Rama visited the city when he was in exile. The confluence offers breath-taking views not only of the merging waters but also of Allahabad Fort constructed by Emperor Akbar, the New Yamuna Bridge and white birds floating on the water.
Colloquially known as the Bade Hanuman Mandir, the Lete Hue Hanuman Temple, the Hanuman Temple just outside Allahabad Fort and near the Triveni Sangam. It is constructed underground, with Lord Hanuman in a leaning posture which is 20-feet long and 8-feet wide, a one-of-a-kind temple. A popular temple in the city, the temple is especially busy on Tuesdays and Saturdays. One part of the temple is always submerged, with rising water levels coming only up to Hanuman’s feet. The temple would typically require a 10-stair pathway to reach the idol beneath ground level. The temple is open between 5 am and 2 pm and then between 5 to 8 pm.
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Located at Alopibagh, near the Triveni Sangam, the Alopi Devi Mandir is an unconventional temple which does not have any presiding deity but a wooden chariot called a dolie which is worshipped by the devotees of Lord Shiva. Housing the last of Goddess Sati’s body parts, the Alopi Devi Mandir is a Shakti Peetha with Tuesdays the busiest day and Navratri celebrated with much pomp. There are two famous myths behind the existence of the temple. One says that the temple houses the last part of Goddess Sati’s body that was shattered into pieces by Vishnu’s Sudarshan Chakra. The other story is that of a vanishing bride. It is said that some thieves and dacoits attacked a wedding procession that was passing through the woods. After robbing everyone and killing most of them, the thieves came to the bride’s chariot to take her away, only to see that she was missing which is unsolved till today. The place was thus called the Virgin Goddess Who Disappeared translating to Alopi Devi. The temple is open from 6 am to 8 pm.
Situated on the banks of the river Yamuna, near the Saraswati Ghat, the Mankameshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of a shivalinga. The temple is crowded on Mondays as the Shiva Pooja is conducted on that day with the Pradusha Pooja carried out every Saturday. The temple is open from 6 am to 10 pm daily.
Located inside the Allahabad Fort complex in the Patalpuri Temple, the Akshaya Vat or Akshayvat is an ancient fig tree. After 2011, this tree can only be visited after the permission of the Commandant of Allahabad Fort’s Ordnance Depot. Only on a single day during the Kumbh Mela festival is this sacred site open to the public. The legend behind this tree is woven in Hindu mythology and it is believed that Lord Narayana submerged the entire earth for a brief moment when the sage Markandaya asked him to show his divine strength. Upon the flooding, it was only the Akshayavat Tree that stayed afloat and so it is believed to be immortal and holy. Some believe that Lord Rama, Lord Laksmana and Goddess Sita rested under this tree during their exile with another popular local story being that Emperor Akbar tried to burn down the tree during the construction of the fort, but was unsuccessful, which is why the tree is standing inside the fort. For a long time, people also used to commit suicide by jumping from this tree into the water, believing that they will attain salvation by doing this. It is said that the British hid certain parts the tree from the public, for security and so there is an underground temple found inside Allahabad Fort.
Organised every year in Prayagraj, the Magh Mela is the mini version of the famous Kumbh Mela and takes place at the confluence of the three rivers Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati at the Triveni Sangam. This festival is held in the Hindu month of Magh which comes in January/February and attracts a large number of tourists and pilgrims at the mela, spread over 45 days starting on Makar Sankranti. The Mela gets its name because it takes place in the Hindu month of Magh, the whole period which is called Kalpvas, and the pilgrims known as Kalpavis.
Built in the late 19th century, the All Saints Cathedral or Patthar Girja is a spectacular Anglican Christian Church and is also known as the Church of Stone. Founded in 1871 by Lady Muir Elizabeth Huntly Wemyss and was consecrated in 1887 and finished in 1891. Constructed in the Gothic style of architecture, the church has carved glass panels and marble-finished sanctuaries and is one of the significant remnants of colonial design in the country. This church also houses the iconic jaali work throughout its arched windows. The light sandalwood tinted walls of the church was built with Sandstone from Chunar. The church is open from 8:30 am to 5:30 pm
Allahabad Fort was built during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1583 and is located on the banks of the confluence of the Rivers Ganga and Yamuna and is the largest fort built by Akbar. However, access to the fort is generally closed to the public and tourists are allowed inside only during the Kumbh Mela, once every 12 years. The fort is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India and is well known for its Akshayavat Tree which can be seen using a small gate as the point of entry. Allahabad Fort is also home to the Patalpuri Temple, which is said to be home all the gates of hell. The best way to explore the fort from the outside on a boat ride in the river either during sunrise or sunset. The fort consists of massive walls, towers, a temple and a large palace. There are three gateways to enter and exit the fort. The interior of the palace has been decorated with Hindu and Muslim influences. The temple inside the fort premise is an underground temple that can be accessed by a small entry in the eastern wall of the fort with the Akshayavat tree near the Patalpuri Temple. There is also a 10-metre-tall Ashoka Pillar that was installed in 232 BC that has the inscription of Emperor Jahangir.
A significant remnant of the Gupta era, the Allahabad Pillar is one of the many pillars set up by the Mauryan emperor, Ashoka. This polished sandstone spire has inscriptions from the Samudragupta and Jahangir era; the 4th century BC and the 17th century respectively. The pillar was shifted from its original spot to Akbar’s Allahabad Fort and because the fort is now property of the Indian army, permission is needed to visit the pillar. Established during Emperor Ashoka’s rule during the 3rd century BC, the Allahabad Pillar is also known as an Ashoka Stambha and some historians saying that the pillar was originally located in Kaushambi, about 50 km from the present site, but some say it was never moved. Divided into three sections, the pillar has messages in stone from the Ashoka, Samudragupta and Jahangir eras with the inscriptions playing a crucial role in decoding the Brahmi Script. The last section of the pillar inscriptions are from the Mughal era and are inscribed by Mir Abdullah Mushkin Qalam.
A stunning remnant of Mughal architecture, Khusro Bagh houses three sandstone tombs of the Emperor Jehangir’s family, his wife Shah Begum, his oldest son, Khusrau Mirza and his daughter, Sultan Nithar Begum. Landscaped amid an elaborately beautiful garden of guava trees and roses, the Bagh has intricate carvings and inscriptions on each of the mausoleums. The elaborately decorated gates give way to beautifully designed balconies and the entire structure contains only two tombs and one empty mausoleum, which is that of the daughter, Nithar’s. Located next to her mother, Sultan Begum’s tomb, Nithar’s is said to be the most gorgeous of all three tombs. Sultan Begum’s tomb is roofed with a chhatri which is a prominent dome-like structure while Nithar’s mausoleum has starry painted ceilings and extensive floral and motif designs and Khuro’s tomb which was the last piece is not much of an architectural stand-out and the walled bracketing are stunning. Entry is free the garden is open from 7 am to 7 pm.
Originally known as the Alfred Park during the British colonial times, the Chandrashekhar Azad Park is better known as the Company Garden and was established in 1870 to mark the arrival of Prince Alfred. It was renamed in 1931 as Chandrashekar Azad Park after he died as a martyr here. The biggest local park, it is a 133-acred green space housing massive statues of King George V and Queen Victoria in the centre of the garden. The park also is host to the Chandrashekar Azad Memorial, the Thornhill Mayne Memorial, the Allahabad Museum, the Madan Mohan Malviya Stadium and the musical training organisation of Prayag Sangeeth Samiti. Built in 1906, the Italian limestone canopy-structure of the Victoria Memorial is also a part of the park which is a canopy used to roof a large idol of Queen Victoria.
Constructed along the banks of the river Yamuna, Minto Park is a lush green park formerly known as Madan Mohan Malviya Park. The four lion sculptures in white stone, established by the Earl of Minto in 1910 is a highlight and the park which is relatively much smaller, hosts lush greenery alongside seating facilities. It was here in 1858 that Earl Canning read out the declaration of Queen Victoria’s Proclamation which resulted in the complete transfer of control over India from The East India Company to the government of Britain. To commemorate the 50th anniversary of the event Earl of Minto installed a proclamation pillar in 1908. The marble pillar was topped with busts of Queen Victoria and Edward VII. In 1910 the park was named as Minto Park and after independence the marble busts atop the pillar were replaced by the Ashokan Lion and the renamed as Madan Mohan Malaviya Park. The park is open from 5 am to 7:30 pm.
Established in 2004, the cable-stayed New Yamuna Bridge over the river Yamuna was built to minimise traffic flow on the Old Naini Bridge. Also known as the Naini Bridge, it runs from northern to southern Allahabad. Over 1510 metres long, the bridge is supported by cables to its deck. For the best views, one must visit the New Yamuna Bridge during dusk when it is lit up and at dawn, one can get sweeping views of the Sangam.
Anand Bhawan is the former residence of the Nehru family which has now been transformed into a museum showcasing various artefacts and articles of the Independence movement. The double-storey mansion was personally designed by Motilal Nehru who designed this house after the old Nehru residence, Swaraj Bhavan was used as an office of the Indian National Congress. The house is beautifully adorned with the wooden furniture imported from China and Europe and various artefacts from all around the world. In 1970, Anand Bhavan was donated to the Indian government by Indira Gandhi, to convert it into a national museum.
Built in 1979 and situated beside Anand Bhavan, the Jawahar Planetarium has a capacity of over 80 people and organises space and celestial shows. It also holds an annual Jawaharlal Nehru Memorial Lecture on November 14th, his birth date. There are shows in both Hindi and English with engaging science models and activities for kids here.
Situated inside the Chandrashekar Azad Park, the Allahabad Museum is a national-level museum which gives an insight into the history, culture, heritage and independence movement of India. The main highlights of the museum are the rock sculptures, the miniature paintings from Rajasthan, terracotta from Kaushambi and literary and artwork from Bengal School of Art. From the Harappan civilisation to the medieval period and the carvings from the Gupta period and Khajuraho, to India’s Independence struggle, the museum is a treasure of Indian history. A new rock gallery was inaugurated which showcases pre-historic rock art as well as a gallery for the Allahabad Museum Green Project. The museum also houses a large collection of Bengal School of Art and Modern Painting of Anagarika Govind, Nicholas and Svetoslav Roerich. The museum was first set up as a public library and a small museum by Sir William Muir and the Maharaja of Vijaynagar in 1878 with the help of the donations from the Province British government. The museum is divided into sixteen galleries, each one displaying a different sect of historic and art collections. Closed on Mondays, the museum is open from 10 am to 5:30 pm on Tuesdays to Sundays. Entry fee is INR 50 for Indians and INR 500 for foreigners while a photography fee of INR 500 is levied for photography enthusiasts.
Located inside the Company Gardens, the Allahabad Public Library was formerly known as the Thornhill Mayne Memorial and is the largest and among the oldest buildings in the state, constructed in 1864. Built in the Indo-Gothic architectural style, the library is designed with typical granite and sandstone turrets and a tall spire and has enclosed green spaces alongside colourful polychromatic structures. The library served as the house of the Legislative Assembly of the United Provinces when Allahabad was the colonial capital. Today, the library has a massive collection of about 125,000 books, 40 types of magazines and 28 newspapers in English, Hindi, Urdu and Bengali as well as 21 Arabic manuscripts. The library is open from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm.
In the next part, the last part of the series, we visit the world’s oldest continously inhabited city, and some historical and religious relevant towns and cities.
Kanpur About 150 km south of Naimisharanya lies the city of Kanpur, also known as the leather city of the world or the Manchester of the East. Known as Cawnpore during the British colonial rule, Kanpur, founded in 1803 was one of the most important commercial and military stations of British India. Nestled on the banks of the Ganges River, Kanpur is the ninth-largest urban economy in India and is famous for its colonial architecture, gardens, parks and fine quality leather products which are exported mainly to the west.
In 1207, Raja Kanh Deo of the Kanhpuria clan established the village of Kanhpur, which later came to be known as Kanpur. Other stories say Kanpur established by king Hindu Singh Chandel of Sachendi, who named it Kanhiyapur because it was said to be founded on the birthday of Lord Krishna. Later it was known as Kanhapur, Caunpoore and Cawnpore and many old texts suggest that it derived its name from the legendary character of Mahabharata, Karna, as it was also called Karnapur. In the 19th century, Cawnpore was an important British garrison with barracks for 7,000 soldiers. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857, 900 British men, women and children were besieged in the fortifications for 22 days by rebels under Nana Sahib Peshwa and surrendered on the agreement that they would get safe passage to the nearby Satti Chaura Ghat whereupon they would board barges and be allowed to go by river to Allahabad. Though there is no clear indication on what exactly happened at the Satti Chaura Ghat, and who fired the first shot, it is known that, soon afterwards, the departing British were shot at by the rebel sepoys and were either killed or captured. Although the East India Company later accused Nana Sahib of betrayal and murder of innocent people, no evidence has ever been found to prove that Nana Sahib had pre-planned or ordered the massacre. Some historians believe that the Satti Chaura Ghat massacre was the result of confusion, and not of any plan implemented by Nana Sahib and his associates. Many were killed and the remaining 200 British women and children were brought back to shore and sent to a building called the Bibighar or the ladies’ home, but were killed three days before the British entered the city. The dismembered bodies were thrown into a nearby deep well. When the British retook the city they committed a series of retaliations against the rebel sepoys and civilians caught in the area, including women, children and old men. The incident was known as the Cawnpore Massacre
Kanpur is a city where one finds a perfect blend of history, architecture, commerce and culture with authentic cuisines, traditional theatrical art and an amalgamation of two eras running parallelly. Having played a significant role in the first Indian war of Independence, Kanpur houses several historical tourists’ spots. Being situated on the banks of Ganges, it serves as a pilgrimage destination too. Apart from this, the IIT-Kanpur is a major educational institute of the region and one of the country’s best.
The JK Temple, also known as the Juggilal Kamplapat temple was constructed by the Singhania family in 1953 with an idol of the Hindu deity Radha Krishna is found at the centre of the temple which is surrounded in lush greenery and small lakes. The temple has beautiful stone carvings on the outside with conical roofs and the marble embellished Shri Radhakrishna Temple towards the eastern side displays the use of contrasting ancient and modern, as well as South Indian and North Indian methods of design. The temple features extensive pavilions called mandapas used for rituals, decorated high ceilings and surrounding ponds and garden areas with lush greenery. The temple consists of five major beautifully designed shrines of the deities Radha and Krishna, Lakshmi and Narayan, Ardhanarishwar, Narmadeshwar and Hanuman. The Radha and Krishna altar is the most prominent shrine with each adorned with colourful decorations and flower garlands, featuring intricate sculptures of the respective deities. The festival of Janmashtami is very popular when the temple remains open all day. The temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and then from 4 to 10 pm and the aarti takes place at 7 pm daily.
The ISKCON temple dedicated to Lord Krishna is located about 4 km from Kanpur. The deities receive an annual Maha Abhishek, which is the traditional bathing of the holy idols, at the Royal Gold Leaf Shrine. In addition to customary rituals, there are three festivals that mark this significant custom. The avatars of Lord Krishna, Sri Sri Radha Madhav, Sri Sri Nitai Gaursundar and Sri Sri Janakai Janaki Vallabha Laxman Hanuman are decorated and preserved. The best time to visit the temple is in August and September for the Krishna Janmashtami and Radhashtami festivals respectively. The temple is open from 4:30 am to 1:30 pm and then from 4:30 to 8:30 pm.
The Jain Glass Temple or the is made out of glass and honours Lord Mahavira and the remaining 23 Jain Tirthankaras. There are various statues, attractive embellishments and delicate glass murals that highlight important details of Jain history and traditions. The temple also has a beautiful garden with prominent sculptures of Jain deities. The temple is fashioned entirely out of glass and this includes its walls, floors, pillars, panels, doors and ceilings, which showcase intricate carvings and decorative mirror-work. It also features life-size idols and paintings of Lord Mahavira and his disciples along with a seating area for prayer and reading ancient scriptures. The temple is open between 8 am and 12 noon and from 4 to 5 pm daily.
The Ram Janki Mandir is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is a very sacred temple. The temple derives its name from Lord Ram and Goddess Janaki or Sita. The temple has a spectacular interior architecture with the walls comprising of beautiful stone carvings which wonderfully illustrates various scenes from the Ramayana. The huge idol of Hanuman is set in the middle of the temple around which devotees are allowed to chant the Hanuman Chalisa all day long. The temple is open between 6 am and 8 pm daily.
One of the oldest churches in India, the Kanpur Memorial Church is also known as the All Souls Cathedral Church and is well known for its architecture and historical importance. Established in 1857, the church is a memoir of the lost British troops of the Sepoy Mutiny. Designed by Walter Granville an architect of the East Bengal Railway, the red-bricked church is made in the Lombardic Gothic Style and has a memorial garden on its east corner. Separated from the main building, the garden has an intricately carved gothic screen. The centre of the church has a structure of an angel sculpted by Baron Carlo Marchettiwith crossed arms symbolising peace. The church is open between 9 am and 6 pm.
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Moti Jheel is a water reservoir which translates to Pearl Lake. The reservoir also has boating facilities and was constructed during the British colonial rule. Originally constructed as a water supply reserve by the British, it was opened as a public area and today houses a green enclosure and a kids’ park. The reservoir and garden is divided into sections including the Baal Udyan or the Children’s Park, which is a Japanese-styled garden, requiring a small entry fee. The reservoir is open from 5 am to 9 pm and does not have an entry fee.
The Nana Rao Park is a public garden centrally located and famous for its lush greenery, particularly evergreen trees and brightly coloured flower beds. The garden boasts of water-fountains and life-size statues of historical figures from India’s freedom struggle including Tatya Tope, Rani Lakshmi Bai, Lala Lajpat Rai and Ajizan Bai. The park features a historic banyan tree called the Boodha Bargad, symbolising freedom from the English colonisers. There is also a public swimming pool, a fitness facility and a plant nursery. Named after Peshwa Nana Rao, the Nana Rao Park was initially known as the Memorial Well Garden before independence and the present garden was built to replace the Memorial Well Garden with public funds. The park has an entry fee of INR 20 and is open between 5 am and 8 pm daily.
Mahatma Gandhi Park is a lush garden located in the cantonment area and is one of the oldest and parks in the city. The park is open between 9 am and 9 pm daily and has an entry fee of INR 50.
The entrance to the Gautam Buddha Park leads into a white dome supported by four pillars with an idol of Gautam Buddha built in a traditional architectural style. The park also hosts a canal that is the perfect boating spot and the best time to experience the park between October to March. The park which has an entry fee of INR 100 per person is open between 9 am and 6 pm daily.
Phool Bagh is a gorgeous urban park also known as Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi Udyan. Originally known as the Queen’s Park, the park is not only one of the oldest gardens in Kanpur but it also historical because it used to be the venue for political rallies and public meetings. The park also has the Kanpur Museum, a library and the Cawnpore Union Club on its premises. The park also has numerous statues of prominent freedom fighters including B.R Ambedkar, Mahatma Gandhi and Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi and has a huge hoisted Indian flag, about 150 feet tall. The KEM hall, also known as the Ganesh Shankar Vidyarthi Udyan is bracketed by Phool Bagh on all four sides. The park is open from 10 am and 10 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.
Also known as Allen Forest Zoo, the Kanpur Zoological Park is located approximately 7 km from the city in the man-made Allen Forest and houses a picturesque landscape, lush vegetation, a beautiful lake, and several rare species of plants and animals. The zoo is home to many wildlife species and has prominent life-size models of dinosaurs, state-of-the-art enclosures, an international standard veterinary facility and attractive garden areas. Established in in 1971, the zoo was opened for public access in 1974. The zoo includes a botanical garden with several indigenous species of plants, a beautiful lake belonging to the Allen Forest, an aviary, a night house dedicated to nocturnal animals such as prickly porcupines and toddy cats and an aquarium for which there is an additional entry charge of INR 10. There is also a popular toy train which is a favourite with the little visitors. The zoo is open between 8 am to 5:30 pm and is open on all days except Mondays. Entrance fees for Indian adults is INR 30 and children between 6 and 9 years is INR 15. For foreign adults, it is INR 150 while children between the ages of 6 and 12 pay INR 75. On weekends and public holidays, Indian adults pay INR 40 while children pay INR 20 and foreigners pay the same fees.
Also known as the Luv Kush Barrage, the Ganges Barrage Kanpur is a 621 m bridge and dam across the Ganges. Constructed amidst abundant green surroundings, the bridge built in 1995 is a must-see on the highway.
Also known as the Kanpur Sangrahalay, the Kanpur Museum, the official museum of the city is located on the Pool Bagh grounds and exhibits artefacts and documents from the colonial period to the modern-day Kanpur. Formerly the King Edward Memorial Hall in memory of King Edward VII, it was renamed as the Gandhi Bhawan in 1999 and has an in-house public library. During the colonial rule,, European merchants came up with the idea of a European-styled hall for cultural activities, which was then renamed after King Edward VII after his death in 1910. Initially built as a European style ballroom, the Kanpur Museum comprises of a large hall type structure with the highly decorated ceiling and a clock tower. After being converted to an official museum, specific architectural changes have been made, with the purposes of restoration, preservation and facilitation of the display of artefacts. The Museum is largely comprised of the collections from the British colonial period such as handwritten books of freedom fighters, their poetry, pistols, dresses, shoes etc. Apart from this, the Kanpur Museum has some important documents and literature on trade and industrialisation. One of the most iconic collections of the Kanpur Museum is an old colonial period artillery gun. The museum is closed on Mondays and on other days, it is open from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 15. Please note that photography inside the museum is highly prohibited with violations leading to penalties.
The Massacre Ghat is located on the banks of the Ganga near Jajmau and covers the northern part of Kanpur. Officially named as the Nana Rao Ghat, this place is also known as the Sati Chaura Ghat as it was the very site where women used to perform the terrifying ritual of Sati. The ghat was a significant maritime route between Kanpur and Allahabad. With the Satya Ashram Mandir built here in 1966, the Ghat used to facilitate bathing and also has a sandpit nearby. Iti s a local site for wresters and is where an annual wrestling competition held between July and August. The ghat witnessed a mass scale bloodshed on June 27th, 1857. With over 300 British families brutally killed, the then Sati Chaura Ghat came to be known as the Massacre Ghat.
The leather city of Kanpur, Jajmau is a densely populated industrial suburb famous for its leather production. Also known as Jajesmow, it is regarded as one of the oldest inhabited places in the city. Located on the banks of the Ganga, Jajmau is also a popular excavation site and is home to the Siddhnath and Sri Devi temples, the primary reason of its former name, Siddhapuri. A small town of about 30 localities, this region is also mentioned in the stories of Hindu myth. The origin of the name Jajmau is hard to trace, but popular opinion is that the town had significant links to the British colonial era. The 1957-58 excavations conducted by the Archaeological Survey of India unearthed some intriguing utensils and other lifestyle bits from the 600 to 1600 AD. These ancient relics now preserved and exhibited at the Kanpur Sangrahalaya. It was found that the site once housed pre-Mauryan residential sections and pottery remains as well and that the current town of Jajmau had a fort by the banks of the Ganges. Jinnaton ki Masjid is an ancient hilltop mosque which resembles the Taj Mahal. There is a sufi tomb from the 1300s close to Tannery Town belonging to Makhdoom Shah Ala-ul-Haq, a prominent Sufi saint of the time. Other popular tourist attractions include Habiba Masjid, Jajmau Tila, Siddhant Ghat and other mosques and the Lal Bangla is a huge market with stores spread across 6 sq km. Jajmau is home to several prominent leather industries which generate an annual revenue of over 15,000 crores or or more than 2 million USD annually and about 30% of the Indian leather export.
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Lucknow The capital of Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow is our next destination. About 94 km slightly northeast of Kanpur, Lucknow is the 14th most populous city and the 12th most populous urban agglomeration of India. A multicultural city that flourished as a North Indian cultural and artistic hub, and the seat of power of Nawabs in the 18th and 19th centuries, Lucknow sits on the northwestern shore of the Gomti River, Lucknow’s chief geographical feature, which meanders through the city and divides it into the Trans-Gomti and Cis-Gomti regions.
Historically, Lucknow was the capital of the Awadh region, controlled by the Delhi Sultanate and later the Mughal Empire and later transferred to the Nawabs of Awadh. In 1856, the British East India Company abolished local rule and took complete control of the city along with the rest of Awadh and, in 1857, transferred it to the British Raj.
Lucknow is the anglicised spelling of the local pronunciation Lakhnau. According to one legend, the city is named after Lakshman, the brother of Lord Rama from the Ramayana. The legend states that Lakshmana had a palace or an estate in the area, which was called Lakshmanapuri or Lakshmana’s city. The settlement came to be known as Lakhanpur or Lachhmanpur by the 11th century, and later, Lucknow. A similar theory states that the city was known as Lakshmanavati or fortunate after Lakshmana. The name changed to Lakhanavati, then Lakhnauti and finally Lakhnau. Yet another theory states that the city’s name is connected with Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth. Over time, the name changed to Laksmanauti, Laksmnaut, Lakhsnaut, Lakhsnau and, finally, Lakhnau.
Rumi Darwaza, the Mughal gateway built in the centre of the city divides Lucknow into Old Lucknow which is ancient, and more crowded, and the New Lucknow, which is urban and a planned city. Most of Old Lucknow is well-known for its bustling vibrant streets, authentic, mouth-watering kebab and biriyani outlets, lakhnavi chikan market, and the wholesale jewellery stores. New Lucknow, on the other hand, is structurally planned with wide roads, shopping malls and parks, with the most famous being the Ambedkar Park and the Gomti Riverfront Park.
One of the landmarks of the city, the Bara Imambara is known for its incredible maze, known as the Bhul Bhulaiya, located on the upper floor of the monument. It is said that there are 1024 ways to get inside the maze but only 2 to come out. The Imambra is also known as Asfi Imambara, after the name of the Nawab of Lucknow was instrumental in the construction. It is an important place of worship for muslims who come here every year to celebrate the religious festival of Muharram. Said to be the world’s largest structure that is unsupported by beams, Bara Imambara is considered a marvel of engineering and a fine specimen of Mughal architecture. The Imambara has a unique style of construction with no wood or metal used in its construction. In the centre hall is the grave of Nawab Asaf-Ud-Dowlah and his crown, said to be the largest vaulted chamber in the world. Built by the 4th nawab of Awadh, Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula, construction for the mosque began in 1784 and took over 14 years to complete and was designed by the architect Hafiz Kifayat Ullah and Shahjahanabadi. During the 18th century, a devastating famine struck the Awadh kingdom. To provide work and food for his starving subjects, the nawab decided construct buildings which would provide them with employment, a food-for-work programme.
The architecture of the Bara Imambara is inspired from the Badshahi Mosque and is one of the last projects not incorporating the use of iron or any European elements. The central hall is said to be the largest arched hall in the world and the mosque has been constructed with no woodwork used in the entire structure, except the galleries. The blocks have been put together with the interlocking system of bricks, and the roof stands upright without any pillars to support it. The Imambara can be accessed through two large gateways, at one end of which lies the grand Asafi Mosque and on the other side is the large baori or well. Beyond the small entrance, to the left of the central hall, lies the intriguing labyrinth leading to the Bhul Bhulaiya which is the major attraction with a network of narrow passageways winding its way inside the upper floor of the monument’s structure, eventually leading to the rooftop. The views from the rooftop are is spectacular.
Visitors are expected to cover their heads and body before entering the Imambara and for those who need them, scarves are available at the main gate. Visitors also need to take off their shoes before entering the shrine and it is advised to carry a torch to explore the baori and the Bhul Bhulaiya. Locals also advise visitors to hire a guide to prevent getting lost in the maze. The Imambara is open from 6 am to 5 pm daily and entrance fees for Indians is INR 25 while foreigners need to pay INR 500, but this is inclusive of tickets to the Bara Imambara, Chota Imambara, Picture Gallery and the Shahi Hamam.
The Chhota Imambara, or the Imambara of Hussainabad, is a beautiful building in the old city west of Bara Imambara. Initially designed as a congregation hall for Shia Muslims built by Muhammad Ali Shah, the 3rd nawab of Awadh, in 1838, the Imambara was to serve as his own mausoleum as well as that of his mother, who is buried beside him. The Imambara consist of two halls and a Shehnasheen or a platform where the Zarih of Imam Husain is kept. The Zarih is the replica of that protective grill or structure which is kept on the grave of Imam Husain at Karbala, Iraq. The large green and white bordered hall of Azakhana is richly decorated with chandeliers and a good number of crystal glass lamp-stands. In fact, it was for this profuse decoration that the Imambara was referred by European visitors and writers as The Palace of Lights. A fusion of the Charbagh, Indo-Islamic and Persian architectural styles, the exterior has Quranic verses written in calligraphy on the walls and the interiors are designed with intricate details. With its baroque carvings and exquisite calligraphy, the Chota Imambara surpasses every other heritage structure in Lucknow. The interiors are decorated with delicate Arabic glass work and calligraphy, an ornately designed gilded golden dome, chandeliers specially brought from Belgium and colourful stuccos and gilt-edged mirrors. The five doorways of the Chhota Imambara emphasize the significance of the Panjetan or the holy five. It houses the tomb of Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah and other members of his family and is a smaller scale copy of the Taj Mahal. The Husainabad Mosque found inside the main monument is constructed on a raised platform with two grand minarets on the edge of the platform and decorated with floral designs and calligraphy. The watchtower, known as the Satkhanda is located just outside. Supposed to be seven storied, it only has four, since construction was abandoned when Ali Shah passed away. Non-Muslim visitors are not allowed inside the mosque located within the monument complex. The Chhota Imambara is open between 6 am and 5 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 25 for Indians and INR 300 for foreigners.
The Lucknow Residency was a residential complex which served as the headquarters for the British East India Company. But after the 1857 uprising, this became a refugee camp. The Residency is in ruins today with a British cemetery nearby that has the graves of those who died during the Lucknow siege and are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Residency also hosts a light and sound show revisiting the 1857 revolt every evening. Built by Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula in 1775, the British Residency was completed in 1800 by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan. After the revolt of 1857, the Residency was turned into the private residence of Oudh’s English commissioner. The Lucknow Residency has three levels which once housed a billiards room, offices and a library besides a basement. There is a huge cross at the entrance, in memory of Major General Sir John Inglis and his wife. Some of the highlights of the Residency include the Begum Kothi, the Mosque and the Canteen, which are all in ruins now. On one of the walls, there is a marble tablet with names of all soldiers who fought and died during the Indian revolt. The grounds of the residency also have an ancient banquet hall with some impressive carvings on its pillars and walls. Another section, known as the House of Dr Fayer used to be a hospital. The Lucknow Residency is open between 10 am and 5 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 5 per person.
From the 1800s and a remnant of colonial India, the Dilkusha Kothi was a former hunting lodge converted into a summer palace for royals. Initially, the residence of the English general, Major Gore Ouseley, this building was further revamped by Nawab Nasir-Ud-Din-Haider. The baroque-styled building was strongly impacted during the 1857 war of Indian Independence with the present structure a mere ruin with just a few towers and walls stnding today. Dilkudha Kothi is in the vicinity of a well-manicured garden, which makes it a good picnic spot. It is open between 8 am and 7 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 100 for foreigners and INR 5 for Indians.
An intricate fusion of Indian and Islamic architectural styles, the Shahi Baoli was formerly built as a reservoir and was constructed between 1784 and 1795 by Nawab Asif-Ud-Din Daula and designed by Kifayat-Ullah. Housing five storeys, the bottom three stories are regular storage spaces and the top two are occasional reserves. An ornate reservoir with some archways and exquisitely carved doorways, the Shahi Baoli is a sight to see. Open from 8 am to 8 pm, the entrance fee for Indians is INR 25 and that for foreigners, it is INR 300.
Chattar Manzil or popularly known as the Umbrella Palace was built by Nawab Ghazi Uddin Haider and later used by the ruler of Awadh and his wives. Located on the banks of the river Gomti, the building is a beautiful example of Nawabi and European architecture. Chattar Manzil has large underground rooms and a huge chhatri or umbrella adorning its dome on the octagonal towers. Formerly divided into the larger or bari umbrella dome and the smaller or chhoti one, Chattar Manzil has preserved the Bari Chattar Manzil, embellished in gold. The palace has five stories and houses two basement storeys and a terrace that initially had two telescopes during colonial times. First constructed in 1781 by Claude Martin, the French Major General of the time, it was then the location of the Central Drug Research Institute or CDRI. But after the CDRI moved out, there are talks to convert the structure into a museum. Chattar Manzil is open from 8 am to 6 pm and there are no entrance fees.
Built by Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Safed Baradari is a white marbled palace originally constructed an Imambara or the Nawab’s Palace of Mourning. Located between the Butler Park and Gulab Vatika, Safed Baradari houses marble statues of the Anjuman founders Maharajas Man Singh and Balrampur’s Digvijay Singh. The Twelve Doored Palace has its main entrance on the eastern end which open up to octagonal pillars with stucco artworks and bright wall work. Initially called Qasr-ul-Aza, this structure later came to be used as a British petitionary court. After the siege of 1856, this was turned into a court for hearing petitions. It was then handed over to the Oudh Talaqdars in 1923 and renamed the British India Association of Oudh, which still holds this place. Today, it is used as a convention centre for weddings and other occasions.
Located in Qaiser Bagh, the Tomb of Saadat Ali Khan is a combined mausoleum of both Saadat Ali Khan and his wife Khursheed Zadi. Constructed by their son, this tomb is built in a fusion of Indian and Islamic architectural styles. With a central dome, the tomb gives way into a black and white interior housing the tombs. The tombs of Saadat Ali Khan and his other wives are found towards the southern end of the mausoleum. The mausoleum is in proximity to the famous Begum Hazrat Mahal Park and is open between 5 am and 8 pm every day.
Lucknow’s famous and iconic Rumi Darwaza is a striking gateway standing tall at sixty feet high and lies between the Bara Imambara and the Chota Imambara. The doorway is built in the ancient Awadhi style of architecture by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula. It is also known as the Turkish Gate because it is modelled after the Sublime Porte or the Bab-i-Humayun door in Istabul, Turkey. Rumi refers to Rûm, the historical name used by the Islamic world to denote the region roughly corresponding to Anatolia, or the dominion of the former Eastern Roman Empire. Therefore, Rumi Darwaza in Hindi literally translates to Turkish Gate in English. Located in the heart of the old city, the gate is like a guardian angel that has seen the city rise and fall many times. The top of the Rumi Darwaza has a small octagonal place called a chhatri or umbrella which looks over both sides of the gate. A staircase leads up to it, which was either used as a sentry post or a place to light the gate with a big lantern at night, which is the more popular theory. The whole structure is decked with ornate patterns of flowers and leaves and other has four minarets at the four corners. It stretches out on both sides taking up almost the shape of a building rather than a gate.
Standing tall adjacent to the Rumi Darwaza, the Husainabad Clock Tower was built in 1881 and is the tallest clock tower in India. It is 67 meters high and displays a Victorian-Gothic style with a 14 feet long pendulum and a dial in the shape of a 12 petalled flower. It is said to have been established in memory of the arrival of Sir George Couper, the second Baronet. In 2010, the manually operated clock was upgraded to an electrical clock which struck for the first time in 27 years in end 2011. The four-faced clock is said to have been replicated based on the Big Ben and is surrounded by a local market. The clock tower is open between 11 am and 1 am daily.
Shaheed Smarak or the Martyrs’ Memorial is a white marbled pillar-like structure standing amidst the lush green lawns at Mukarimnagar, Qaiserbagh. Established in the memory of soldiers who lost their lives during the 1857 War of Independence, this pillar was built in the 1970s. There are also boating facilities in the nearby Gomti river and has stone stairs for seating within the premises. Open 24 hours a day, the best time however to visit is between 8 am and 4 pm.
Also known as the Dr Bhimrao Ambedkar Samajik Parivartan Prateek Sthal, the Ambedkar Memorial Park was built in the name of the architect of the constitution of India, Dr BR Ambedkar. This Park is also dedicated to many other freedom fighters including Jyotiba Phule, Birsa Munda, Kanshi Ram and Sree Narayana Guru. Founded in 1995, the park was renovated in 2002 and revamped in 20he 07 and a full-fledged public space only in 2008. The Ambedkar Park was soon renamed as Bhimrao Ambedkar Memorial in 2012. The red sandstone structure of the memorial houses the Ambedkar Stupa which is situated on a pedestal and is a massive bronze structure of Dr BR Ambedkar sitting on a chair and the base has an engraving which says “My struggle of life is my only message”. The stupa houses four opposite facing doorways with portraits of Dr Ambedkar inside. Spread across 2.5 acres, the museum has with two dome-like structures with each dome holding statues. The Pratibimb Sthal is a 107-acre expanse marking the entrance to the memorial and has sixty odd elephants parallel to each other as well as a huge central musical fountain towards the memorial’s entrance. The The gallery preserves various artefacts and documents relating to Dr Ambedkar about his life and his role in the freedom struggle. There are also several bronze-embellished wall work and other statues as well as a small souvenir shop selling books and other souvenirs. The Drashya Sthal is laid out on an 80 feet tall pyramidical structure with water flowing from its pinnacle. The park is open from 9 am to 7 pm
The Gautam Buddha Park is situated next to Hathi Park and was set up in 1980. A local favourite, the park has many swings and slides amongst lush green lawns and flowers. There is also a paddle boating available at a nominal price which is highly popular. The park is open from 7 am to 9 am and has an entrance fee of INR 5 and paddle boating costs are INR 10 with INR 25 per additional hour while the electric swing costs INR 10.
A very popular local park, Hathi Park has several swings and slides and recreational elephant structures which can be climbed upon. Open from 7 am to 8 pm daily, there is an entrance fee of INR 5 to get into the park.
Janeshwar Mishra Park is a newly constructed park, dedicated to the late Samajwadi Party politician, Janeshwar Mishra and was opened to the public in 2014. One of the biggest parks in Asia, the park has lush greenery dotted with floral gardens and also offers activities like boat rides and a children’s play area. There is an elaborate display of an MIG Aircraft and a few tanks at the park entrance as well as the Indian flag which is hoisted. The park is open from 5 am to 10 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.
Spread across 76 acres, the Dr Ram Manohar Lohiya Park is a popular park dedicated to the socialist leader and has four divisions of courtyards and separate entrances. Besides, it has green lawns sprinkled with seasonal flowers and shrubbery and is used for jogging and morning yoga classes. There is also a 100-meter acupressure walking and running track as well as a children’s play area. Alongside a fish and duck pond, the park also has a lake with a backdrop of Dr Lohiya’s statue. This lake also has four fountains spread across as well as an amphitheatre quite close to the clock tower. The park is open between 6 am and 10 pm and has an entrace fee of INR 5 while children below the age of 12 enter free.
Located in Qaiserbagh, the Begum Hazrat Mahal Park is a popular park which has swings and a children’s play area. The park houses a memorial structure of Begum Hazrat Mahal who played a vital role in the 1857 revolt. This marble building was initially commemorated at the Old Victoria Park of Hazratganj in 1962. The park also has a couple of fountains, a floral garden and stone walkways. The park is open from 8 am to 9 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 10.
Sikandar Bagh is an ancient styled mansion and a bracketing garden built in the 1800s and is known to be the last Mughal Garden in India. Built by Nawab Wajid Ali Khan, the last Nawab of Oudh, Sikandar Bagh became a Botanical Garden and home to the National Botanical Research Institute post-1947. The park also acted as a venue in the 1857 Battle of Independence and it was on the grounds of this garden that the ‘ugly blind hole’ was created on one of the brick walls. The collision was caused by the six open fires and 18 other guns. Housing over 2000 soldiers, Sikander Bagh was the site of the mass murder at the hands of the British Commander-in-Chief, Sir Colin Campbell. Sikandar Bagh is open from 9:30 am to 6 pm.
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Built by Nawab Saadat Ali Khan, the Moti Mahal Palace is popularly known as the Pearl Palace. Located on the banks of river Gomti, the palace is constructed next to Mubarak Manzil and Shah Manzil. A former residence of the Nawabs of Lucknow, Moti Mahal was initially a part of the Qaisar Bagh complex. Today, the surrounding gardens are used to hold conferences, parties and other such special occasions. Open from 11 am to 11 pm, entrance is free.
Firangi Mahal is a Mughal building built in the 11th century and between the 1550s and 1690s it was turned into an Islamic learning institution. The Alam Hafiz family is said to have been the first recorded resident of the place in 1559. It later became the residence of a French businessman, Mr Neil. The palace also played an important role during the Khilafat movement as it served as accommodation for important leaders of the movement.
Constructed between 1848-1850, under the rule of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, Kaiserbagh Palace is an excellent example of Mughal architecture located when one goes from the eastern end of the Chattar Manzil towards the Tarawali Kothi. It houses a white-marbled central Baradari and is open from 8 am to 8 pm with no entrance fee.
The Shah Najaf Imambara is a dome-shaped 19th century congregration hall housing the graves of Nawab Ghazi-uddin Haider and his three wives. With splendid Mughal architecture amid a beautiful front floral yard, the Imambara is an all-white marble structure housing a large dome. Visitors must remove footwear and cover their heads while entering the mosque. Established in honour of the Caliph, Hazrat Ali, the Shah Najaf Imambara is believed to be a mirrored construction of the Iraqi tomb of Najaf-e-Ashraf. The mosque is open from 8 am to 5 pm.
The Jama Masjid was built by Nawab Mohammad Ali Shah Bahadur in 1423 on an elevated square platform to over shadow the grand Jama Masjid in Delhi. The Hindu-Jain fusion architecture imbibed with Islamic features boasts of a fancy decor with lime plaster, adorned with stucco motifs and has high arched ceilings and sturdy pillars. An active mosque today, non-muslims are not allowed inside. It is open from 5 am and 9 pm daily and photography fees are INR 300.
Situated in the Barabanki district, about 25 kms from Lucknow, Dewa or Dewa Sharif is a small town renowned for the shrine of Haji Waris Ali Shah with a mosque and a khankah within the premises. Born in the 19th century, Haji Waris Ali Shah belonged to the family of Hussaini Syeds with Waris Ali Shah the founder of the Warsi order of Sufism who undertook the pilgrimage to Mecca several times in his lifetime and welcomed followers of all faiths and religions into his commune. After his death, a tomb was set up, visited by devotees from all over the world. The Urs festival at Dewa Sharif is a huge annual affair with celebrations over 10 days in the month of October-November when the shrine is decorated in tinsel and fairy lights. A grand procession is carried out and the entertainment includes an all-India Mushaira or poetry competition and music performances. There is also an elaborate display of fireworks. Unique to the Dewa Shareef shrine is that it celebrates the Hindu festival of Holi with great pomp and show with people playing and colouring each other. The best time to visit the shrine is on a full moon day.
The Chandrika Devi Temple is dedicated to Goddess Chandi. Adorning three heads, Chandrika Devi is a said to be a combined manifestation of the Goddesses Kali, Lakshmi and Saraswati. There is also a pond in the premises that has a huge seated statue of Lord Shiva. Said to be a 12-century shrine, the Chandrika Devi Temple is believed to have been part of the era of the Ramayana. Hindu mythology has it that Goddess Chandi once safeguarded Prince Chandraketu, the older brother of Lord Lakshmana. As he was riding alongside river Gomti with his horse, Ashhwamegh, he decided to halt for the night as it got quite dark. It was then that he prayed to Chandrika Devi to protect him through the night who delivered security through a flood of moonlight. Devotees later constructed a shrine at the same place.
The 1000-year olf Mankameshwar Mandir is situated on the banks of river Yamuna at Saraswati Ghat in Lucknow. A revered Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva this temple is the first to have had a woman priest. Mondays are considered special and hence the busiest. According to myth, the site of the present Mankameshwar Mandir was a holy site visited by Lord Lakshman after leaving Goddess Sita in exile and is the same place that King Navdhanu constructed this temple many years later. The temple was completely ruined during the 1100s by conquerors from Yemen and reconstructed about five centuries ago by the Naga monks. The temple is open between 5 am and 12 noon and then again between 4 to 9 pm.
A monastery dedicated to Sri Ramakrishna Praramahamsa, the Ramakrishna Math has a shrine adjacent to the institute. Built completely of marble, the Math also holds various idols of Ramakrishna, Mother Sarada Devi and Swami Vivekananda. The first Math was established in 1925 with the present temple the new version constructed close to the older site. Established in 1987, the white structure of the new monastery is a combination of Hindu and Islamic architectural features. It also represents adapted designs from the Indian dynasties of the time. In addition to the red-cemented significant relics from Hindu mythology, the current temple of the Ramakrishna Math hosts an elegant marble-finished entryway. Numerous mythical creatures and characters in stone adorn the parallels of the entrance. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple, roofed with nine white domes is secured with an ornately carved gate. However, this part of the temple emits a Rajasthani aura of architecture alongside the typical Mughal style. The prayer hall here hones an elaborately decorated white and brown floor, while siting a splendid chandelier with over 250 lights. The math is open from 8:30 am to 12 noon and then between 4:30 to 7:30 pm.
Named after the Marine Drive in Mumbai, Lucknow’s Marine Drive is a picturesque strip of road adjacent to the River Gomti popular among the young as a hangout place. With benches to sit and relax, it is used a jogging and cycling track.
A colonial landmark the Constantia or La Martiniere School was built in 1845 and houses the tomb of Claude Martin, the French Major-General at the time. The European styled building also has a library, a chapel and a well-preserved and beautiful lobby room. Having separate schools for boys and girls, it is said that the 1857 batch is said to have played an important part in the revolt. With architectural highlights such as carved arches and decorated balconies, this heritage building continues to be one of the top educational institutes in town.
Situated on the banks of the River Gomti, the Indira Gandhi Planetarium is popularly known as the Taramandal Show. The highlights of the planetarium are the science and astronomy shows and 3D models and exhibitions. One can also see models of various Indian satellites and read about about renowned Indian scientists as well as take a virtual trip to space through the 3D space shows. Designed and modelled in the shape of Saturn with five rings around its central body, the building boasts of striking architecture signifying the solar system. A water pool surrounds the building. The planetarium is open from 11 am until 5 pm and has shows at 1 pm, 2:30 pm, 4 pm and 5 pm with an extra show at 6 pm during the summer holidays. On weekends, the first show is in English while the rest are in Hindi. Bookings for the shows can be done between 11 am and 5 pm. Entrance fees for adults is INR 25 and there is no entry fee for children below the age of three. The planetarium is closed on Mondays
Located in Qaiserbagh, the 1857 Memorial Museum is dedicated to the First War of Independence of 1857. Containing relics and antiques, the museum also has visual displays of the war. It also has many photographs, maps, manuscripts and paintings depicting the struggle. There is also an antique collection of war swords, rifles, shields, terracotta items, crockery, canons, medals and even badges from the 1800s. Constructed by the British in 1774, the Lucknow Residency was completed by Nawab Sadat Ali Khan in 1800, but was massively damaged during the 1857 war. Today, the Archaeological Survey of India manages the museum and have organised tours. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm and Indian visitors need to pay INR 15 while foreign visitors will pay INR 200.
The Nawab Wajid Ali Shah Zoological Garden, popularly known as the Lucknow Zoo was originally known as The Prince of Wales Zoological Gardens and is home to mammals, birds and reptiles, the most famous ones being the royal Bengal tiger, white Bengal tiger, Himalayan black bear and Asiatic lion. Established in 1921 by Nawab Nasiruddin Haider, this 71.6-acre zoo was established to celebrate the visit of the Prince of Wales to Lucknow. The zoo has a toy train which rides through the zoo. The Uttar Pradesh State Museum is an interesting attraction within the zoo displays Awadh artefacts like sculpture, bronzes, paintings, natural history & anthropological specimens, coins, textiles and decorative arts, along with excavations related to the life of Lord Buddha. There is also an Egyptian mummy and wooden sarcophagus, an inscribed wine jar bearing the name of Aurangzeb Alamgir, a jade Chamakali with the name Jahangir and the date 1036 AD, a 16th-century painting of a scene from the Kalpasutra. A replica from colonial times, a vintage train abandoned in the Laxmipur forest in 1924 is also displayed. Inaugurated in 2018, the Butterfly Park is relatively a newer addition to the zoo. With over 28 species alongside a beautiful park, this park also offers educational information about these colourful creatures. However, the butterfly park would need an extra entry fee. The Nature Interpretation Centre houses informative pieces from the animal mapping system to well-preserved ostrich, emu and macaw eggs. There are also preserved pugmarks of different rare and endangered animals including different tiger species. The Lucknow Zoo is the only one of the only two zoos in India to exhibit an orangutan, with the other being the Kanpur Zoo. Entry tickets for those above 12 are INR 60 and INR 54, if purchased online, which includes an entry ticket as well as tickets to the Aquarium House, Nocturnal House and Nature Interpretation Centre. For a package which includes a train ride and a battery operated vehicle, it is INR 100 or INR 90 if purchased online. For those between 5 and 12, the first entry fee is INR 30 or 27 if purchased online and INR 50 or INR $5 if purchased online for the second option. Entry for those below 5 is free. A video camera of INR 50 and a morning walk pass of INR 100 for a monthly or INR 500 for a yearly option is also available. The Zoo is open between 8:30 to 5:30 pm between February and April, between 8 am to 6 pm between May and July, between 8:30 to 5:30 pm in August, September and October and from 8:30 am to 5 pm between November to January. The zoo is closed on Mondays.
Also known as Shahid Chandra Shekhar Azad Bird Sanctuary, the Nawabganj Bird Sanctuary is located in Unnao near Lucknow. Surrounded by dense forests, this bird sanctuary is home to over 250 species birds and is also a great place to spot other wildlife. The sanctuary also houses a deer park and has an interpretation centre. The sanctuary can be visited around the year; however, the best time is between October to March as there are several species of birds who migrate from colder regions and settle at the bird sanctuary. There are two walking trails that take you through the sanctuary amidst the forest cover and lush greenery. There is a pond in the complex perfect for leisurely strolls or just enjoying some quiet time. The sanctuary is open between 9 am to 5 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for Indians and INR 350 for foreigners. There is also a camera fee of INR 500.
In the next part, we will explore some of the most ancient cities in the world as well as some of the holiest.
Memories and Such 
