Kathmandu continues to enchant us…

Located in the heart of Kathmandu, Thamel is a vibrant and bustling neighborhood that serves as the tourist hub of the city. It is a bustling maze of narrow streets teeming with shops offering colorful textiles, traditional handicrafts, and trekking gear. It also has an extensive selection of restaurants, cafes, bars, and entertainment venues. Formerly known as Tabitha Bahal, the maze of streets that make up Thamel is home to numerous stalls. Thamel is also home to several restaurants that serve delicious and varied cuisine. One can almost always get a good bargain on the items that are sold here, especially on handcrafted materials. Thamel is also the prime entertainment district in the capital with a plethora of bars, clubs and casinos, most of them operating for 24 hours,

At its centre, Thamel has the serene Vikramshila Mahavihara Monastery which dates back several decades. The manuscript Swayambhu Purana, which narrates the story of Kathmandu Valley, is said to be housed within it. In addition to this historical treasure, Thamel houses several other cultural monuments. One of the lesser-known temples in Thamel, the Tri Devi temple houses temples devoted to the Goddesses Jawala Mai, Dakshinkali, and Manakamana. Below a pavement in the northern region of Thamel stands a bland concrete monument with the most beautiful deity of Lord Ganesha inside it. Planted below street level, the deity at the Sunken Ganesh Shrine is ornate with intricately detailed ornaments and carvings. Ghairi Dhara is a colossal natural water source which is still in use in spite of being damaged by the 2015 earthquake. For several centuries, this spot has been used by the locals to draw water for different purposes. Close to the Thamel Marg stands the picturesque Shiva Shrine, thronged by devotees on a daily basis. The Ashoka Stupa, dedicated to Emperor Ashoka, is a newly renovated Stupa which holds a rich historical significance. Even though there are no written archives stating the age of the monument, it is said that it is over a thousand years.

Asan Tole is a famous market street in Asan. The six spoked juncture of the street is always bustling with people selling everything from vegetables and fishes to clothes, jewellery and spices. It is a place where one can experience the daily life of Nepali people. Other than the bazaar, tourists can also explore some sites in Asan Tole. There is the Annapurna Ajima Temple located on a busy street. It has a traditional three-tiered pagoda, wooden architecture and houses a pot with grains representing the Goddess. A little distance away, to the north of the square, is a temple dedicated to Lord Ganesh and the north-west is another shrine dedicated to Lord Narayan. From a distance, one would notice the new construction all around the temple. This proves that the culture and the belief are so strong that locals embrace it even after centuries of evolution. At the centre of the attraction, a stone figurine of a fish, also called the Nyalon or the Fish Stone has been installed. This is believed to be the exact location where a fish miraculously fell from the sky. After this incident, Asan Tole was founded. To the southern side of the square is a building called Yita Chapa. This building has a prayer or hymn hall and several shrine rooms where locals get together and sing hymns. A stone platform, called the Asan Dabu is specially used for cultural performances held during festivals.

The rest of the streets that radiate out from the square are lined with more shrines and religious courtyards like the Kwathu Baha, Thakse Baha, Dhalasikwa Baha, Asan Baha, Haku Baha and the Dagu Baha. All these courtyards have decorated shrines with stupas and statues of Buddha that emphasise on the spiritual aspect of the city. This ancient commercial centre in Kathmandu, Asan Tole is one place that truly is the lifeline of Kathmandu and the local traders. Those who wish to witness this unique facet of Nepal must visit this part of the city.

Located near the Pashupatinath Temple on the banks of Bagmati River, the crematoria is where Nepali Hindus go for their last rites. Visitors can sit on the other bank of the river and observe the last rites. The Cremetoria is open from 10:30 am to 4 pm on Tuesdays to Saturdays. Entry is free for Nepalis, while foreigners need to pay NPR 1000.

Kathmandu is home to a number of museums and art galleries, including the National Museum of Nepal and the Natural History Museum of Nepal. Nepal’s art and architecture is an amalgamation of two ancient religions, Hinduism and Buddhism. These are amply reflected in the many temples, shrines, stupas, monasteries, and palaces in the seven well-defined Monument Zones of the Kathmandu valley, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Also known as the Rashtriya Sangrahalaya, the National Museum is a century-old museum that has preserved the exhibits depicting the rich historical significance of Nepal. Located in the western part of Kathmandu, near the Swayambhunath stupa, the National Museum is in a historical building constructed in the early 19th century by General Bhimsen Thapa. It is the most important museum in the country, housing an extensive collection of weapons, art and antiquities of historic and cultural importance. The museum was established in 1928 as a collection house of war trophies and weapons, and the initial name of this museum was Chhauni Silkhana, meaning the stone house of arms and ammunition. Given its focus, the museum contains many weapons, including locally made firearms used in wars, leather cannons from the 18th–19th century, and medieval and modern works in wood, bronze, stone and paintings.

Home to three buildings: the Historical Museum Building, the Buddhist Art Gallery, and the Juddha Jayatia Kala Shala, this monument houses cultural, historical, and philatelic sections, including weapons, artworks, coins, statues, postage stamps, and several species of plants and animals.

The main building houses a Philatelic Gallery, a Historical Gallery, a Natural Science Gallery, and a Numismatics Museum. It also houses leather canons seized during the first war fought between Nepal and Tibet in 1792, cane helmets, Birgun, and Thomson submachine guns. The sword presented by Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte remains the most valuable treasure, along with the plethora of relics from 1934, the year in which Kathmandu became a victim of a massive earthquake. The displays of the Natural Science section houses a variety of species of birds and animals of the wild, including mammals, reptiles, insects, and butterflies. The philatelic section, including an extensive collection of stamps from previous centuries, primarily draws in collectors. On the other hand, the numismatic section houses bronze, copper, silver, and gold coins dating back to the Licchavi era. Finally, life-sized paintings of the rulers during the Malla and Shah dynasties along with the Prime Ministers adorn the walls of the building.

A repository of Buddhist sculptures, paintings, and ceremonial objects, the Buddhist Art Gallery provides a rich insight into Buddhist art in the country of Nepal. This gallery is segregated into three sections, namely the Kathmandu Valley, the Terai, and the northern Himalayan sections. While the first section comprises of figures of Bodhisattvas and the Buddha and Chaityas cast in bronze, the Terai section is ornate with numerous pictures of Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha. On the other hand, the northern Himalayan part offers a glimpse of the impact of Tibetan Buddhism on the country, which was supposedly full of rituals and religious practices. Ritualistic artefacts like Phurpas, Dorje, Thangka paintings, and Tibetan amulets are displayed in the gallery, among other religious materials. Breathtaking images and paintings of the Goddess of Wisdom, Manjushri, Dipankara Buddha, and Yantras belonging to the 19th century wrap up the priceless collection of the Buddhist Art Gallery.

Also referred to as the Hall of Sculpture, the Juddha Jayatia Kala Shala is devoted to stone and wood carvings and intricate metal works. Among the several stone images, the one of Jayavarma, the Licchavi King of the 2nd century, is the most prominent. The artefacts that attract several connoisseurs are the four stolen sculptures, namely, the Buddha of Bhinchhe Bahal from the 9th century, Hyumat Tole’s Garudasana Vishnu from the 10th century, Veena Dharini Saraswati from Kamalpokhari in Pharping from the 12th century, and Surya, belonging to Panauti’s Triveni Ghat from the 14th century.

Other exquisite sculptures include the exquisite Uma and Maheshwara, the fat-bellied Lord Brahma, and the dancing Lord Ganesha. A restored statue from the 15th century of the dancing goddess, Nrittya Devi, adorns the wood carving section. Intricate and detailed carvings made on sal, teak, rosewood, as well as on the window frames, provide a glance at the refined wood carving skills of the artisans. The painting section is ornate with images of the mystical deeds of Lord Krishna, and has been named Krishna Leela. Apart from these three exhibits, the museum is home to a captivating Doll Gallery, consisting of dolls from all over the world. This unique range of dolls was given to the female royalty from the heads of states and other countries over the years.

Between February and October, the museum is open from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm on Wednesdays to Sundays and from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm on Mondays. Between November and January, the the museum is open from 10:30 am to 3:30 pm on Wednesdays to Sundays and from 10:30 am to 2:00 pm on Mondays. Entry fees are NPR 50 for SAARC country citizens, NPR 75 for those with a still camera, NPR 150 for those with a video camera. For foreigners, entry fee is NPR 150, NPR 100 for those with a still camera, and NPR 200 for those wanting to take a video camera inside.

The Natural History Museum is in the southern foothills of Swayambhunath hill and has a sizeable collection of different species of animals, butterflies, and plants. The museum is noted for its display of species, from prehistoric shells to stuffed animals. The Tribhuvan Museum contains artifacts related to King Tribhuvan, who ruled between 1906 and 1955. It has a variety of pieces, including his personal belongings, letters, and papers; memorabilia related to events he was involved in and a rare collection of photos and paintings of Royal family members. The Mahendra Museum is dedicated to King Mahendra, who ruled between 1920 and 1972. Like the Tribhuvan Museum, it includes his personal belongings, such as decorations, stamps, coins and personal notes and manuscripts, but it also has structural reconstructions of his cabinet room and office chamber. The Hanumandhoka Palace, a lavish medieval palace complex in the Durbar, contains three separate museums of historic importance. These museums include the Birendra Museum, which contains items related to the second last monarch, King Birendra.

The Taragaon Museum presents the modern history of the Kathmandu valley. It seeks to document 50 years of research and cultural heritage conservation of the Kathmandu Valley, documenting what artists, photographers, architects, and anthropologists from abroad had contributed in the second half of the 20th century. The actual structure of the museum showcases restoration and rehabilitation efforts to preserve the built heritage of Kathmandu. It was designed by Carl Pruscha, the master-planner of the Kathmandu Valley in 1970 and constructed in 1971. Restoration works began in 2010 to rehabilitate the Taragaon hostel into the Taragaon Museum. The design uses local brick along with modern architectural design elements, as well as the use of circle, triangles and squares. The museum is within a short walk from the Boudhanath stupa, which itself can be seen from the museum tower.

Kathmandu is a centre for art in Nepal, displaying the work of contemporary artists in the country and also collections of historical artists. Patan in particular is an ancient city noted for its fine arts and crafts. Art in Kathmandu is vibrant, demonstrating a fusion of traditionalism and modern art, derived from a great number of national, Asian, and global influences. Nepali art is commonly divided into two areas: the idealistic traditional painting known as Paubhas in Nepal and perhaps more commonly known as Thangkas in Tibet, closely linked to the country’s religious history, crafts and on the other hand the contemporary western-style painting, including nature-based compositions or abstract artwork based on Tantric elements and social themes of which painters in Nepal are well noted for.[76] Internationally, the British-based charity, the Kathmandu Contemporary Art Centre is involved with promoting arts in Kathmandu. Kathmandu houses many notable art galleries. The NAFA Gallery, operated by the Arts and Crafts Department of the Nepal Academy is housed in Sita Bhavan, a neo-classical old Rana palace.

The Srijana Contemporary Art Gallery, inside the Bhrikutimandap Exhibition grounds, hosts the work of contemporary painters and sculptors, and regularly organizes exhibitions. It also runs morning and evening classes in the schools of art. Also of note is the Moti Azima Gallery, in a three-storied building in Bhimsenthan which contains an impressive collection of traditional utensils and handmade dolls and items typical of a medieval Newar house, giving an important insight into Nepali history. The J Art Gallery near the former royal palace in Durbarmarg displays the artwork of eminent, established Nepali painters. The Nepal Art Council Gallery, in the Babar Mahal, on the way to Tribhuvan International Airport contains artwork of both national and international artists and extensive halls regularly used for art exhibitions.

The National Library of Nepal is located in Patan. It is the largest library in the country with more than 70,000 books in English, Nepali, Sanskrit, Hindi, and Nepal Bhasa. The library is in possession of rare scholarly books in Sanskrit and English dating from the 17th century. Kathmandu also contains the Kaiser Library, in the Kaiser Mahal on the ground floor of the Ministry of Education building. This collection of around 45,000 books is derived from a personal collection of Kaiser Shamsher Jang Bahadur Rana. It covers a wide range of subjects including history, law, art, religion, and philosophy, as well as a Sanskrit manual of Tantra, which is believed to be over 1,000 years old. The 2015 earthquake caused severe damage to the Ministry of Education building, and the contents of the Kaiser Library have been temporarily relocated.

The Asa Archives are also noteworthy. They specialise in medieval history and religious traditions of the Kathmandu valley. The archives, in Kulambhulu, have a collection of some 6,000 loose-leaf handwritten books and 1,000 palm-leaf manuscripts, mostly in Sanskrit or Nepal Bhasa and a manuscript dated to 1464.

Tundlikhel is a former parade ground of Gurkha soldiers which has been converted into a picnic spot and viewpoint, popular amongst locals and tourists. On a clear day, one can view the mesmerising Himalayan peaks including including Dhaulagiri, Machhapuchhare, Langtang Lirung, Manaslu and Ganesh Himal. Best time to visit is during sunrise or sunset. Once upon a time, this plateau region was used by traders to sell off some goods before making their way to Tibet or India. The ground was also used for parade purposes by the Gorkha regiment. Nowadays, it is open for anyone to enjoy and relax.

Located on the outskirts of Kathmandu, Taudaha Lake is a famous freshwater lake surrounded by hills covered with dense forests. The lake is full of fishes and is also a heaven for birdwatchers because of the migratory birds in the area. As per a legend, Taudaha is one of the lakes that were formed from the waters of a large lake after a mythical character cut the hill behind it and let the water flow away.

Legend states that there was once an enormous water body where Kathmandu now exists. This water body was believed to be home to mythical creatures that were a part serpent and part human and were recognised as the Nagas. Manjushree, a bodhisattva who was associated with Mahayana Buddhism, is believed to have cut through a hill located in the south of the Kathmandu Valley and let the water drain away to expose the land underneath to use it for human settlement. The water, however, did not drain off entirely and smaller ponds and lakes were formed in and around the region. One of these is believed to be the Taudaha Lake.

The Nagas were left homeless after the water body no longer remained and their King, Karkotak set out in rage to take revenge. To calm the king, the people who settled near Taudaha Lake built a magnificent palace underwater, studded it with precious stones and offered it to the Naga King. He was extremely pleased with the gesture but put forth a condition that nobody would disturb the biodiversity of the lake if they wanted him to rule the Nagas harmoniously underwater. The people agreed, and ever since, no fishing or swimming is allowed in the Taudaha Lake.

The lake has incredible biodiversity, home to a number of plant, bird and animal species. Researchers have found that the place is home to 17 species of resident birds, two summer migrants and about 20 species of winter migrant birds. The lake is open daily between 9 am and 5 pm and has an entry fee of NPR 25 for SAARC country nationals while others need to pay NPR 100.

The national botanical garden or the Royal Botanical Gardens is located at the base of Phulchowki hill, covering an area of 82 hectares and is surrounded by beautiful evergreen natural forests. Various indigenous plants such as ornamental plants, rock plants, rose cultivars, trees and shrubs, lilies, ferns, medicinal plants and native flora, aquatics, cacti, orchids are housed here for display. It is open from 9 am to 5 pm and foreigners can enter by paying NPR 100 while SAARC tourists need to pay NPR 25.

The Garden of Dreams, also referred to as the Swapna Bageecha and garden of six seasons is a neo-classical garden built by Kishore Narshingh in1920. The garden has a magnificent amphitheatre, urns, gorgeous pavilions, paved perimeter paths, pergolas, and ponds that draw in locals and tourists alike. After the patron of this garden, Kaiser Sumsher Rana, passed away in the 1960s, the site lay in neglect until recent years, when it was beautifully restored by the Austrian government and reopened for visitors.

When set in contrast to the other gardens that were designed in those years, this garden, inspired by the Edwardian style of architecture, was wonderfully modern in its time. Under the professional supervision of the renowned architect, Kishore Narsingh, this European garden was a repository of fascinating features. After Kaiser Sumsher Rana passed away, the Government of Nepal took over the responsibility of the garden. After lying dormant for several years without any attempts at restoration, the Garden of Dreams came back to life after a renewal project was begun with the financial aid of the Government of Austria and the implementation of Eco Himal.

Spread out across 6895 square metres, it houses some smaller gardens within the walls. Along the perimeter of the path paved across the place, sunken flower gardens, with viridescent ponds in the middle, add to the beauty of the attraction. This place is also home to several classical concerts, corporate functions, private receptions, as well as cultural programs. In 2016, a small museum was integrated within the garden, and at present, it also houses a library and a cafe. The garden, which can be visited by paying an entry fee of NPR 320 for adults and NPR 160 for children, is open from 9 am to 10 pm with the last entry at 9 pm.

With trekking trails, lush greenery, and a variety of species of flora and fauna, the Langtang National Park is the fourth national park established in Nepal in 1976. The national park is situated approximately 32 km to the north of Kathmandu and is connected to the Qomolangma National Nature Preserve in Tibet. The picturesque park is also home to the serene, high altitude Gosaikunda Lake, believed to be sacred. From the dense forests which comprise the hilly areas, the area of the park spreads across the Nepalese larch in the middle before cascading down to the vast meadows of green grasslands. With more than 250 species of birds, around 46 species of mammals, and a whopping 1000 species of plants, this place is ideal for nature enthusiasts.

The park encompasses 26 village executives and is perched at an altitudinal range of 6450 masl. The peak of the gigantic Langtang Lirung, at an altitude of 7245 m, is the zenith of the park. The numerous trekking tracks, each differing in its level of difficulty from the other cater to those who come here seeking adventure. While the international boundary of Tibet coincides with the borders of the park in the north and east, the western border follows the rivers Trisuli and Bhote Kosi. The protected area within the park is representative of both the Palearctic and Indo-Malayan ecozones, which houses a rich and vast biodiversity.

Of the numerous trekking routes that make up a significant part of the Langtang National Park, the three main trails are the Langtang Valley, the Gosaikunda Lake, and Helambu. A significant portion of the Langtang valley is loosely connected to the southern section of the Helambu region through Laurebina La. To make sure that trekkers do not face any inconvenience, all three routes have locally operated lodges, hotels, tea stalls, and campgrounds, in addition to other facilities. The Langtang National Park lets the visitors make the final choice by offering them trekking options ranging from moderate to difficult. The duration of each trekking trip ranges from 3 days to 3 weeks. The trekkers can also ask for extra time to explore the vast wilderness, the breathtaking hilltop view, and the cultural heritage sites. For the more adventurous, the remote areas of the park, including the Panch Pokhari, Langshisa glacier, the eastern part of Helambu, and the upper sections of Kyanjin, along with the Ganja La Pass, are also accessible.

Langtang National Park is a repository of mammalian and avian fauna, the former falling into an intermediate category of the Palaearctic and the Indo-Malayan. While most of the species belonging to the Indo-Malayan group have chosen the lower altitudes as their abode, the red panda is the only fauna belonging to the same group which has found its shelter at an elevation of 4800 metres. Up to 46 species of mammals have been found and recorded in this beautiful park, of which the ones that have been segregated into the protected list of the National Park and Wildlife Conservation Act 1973 are the grey wolf, red panda, leopard cat, clouded leopard, snow leopard, Tibetan sheep, Assamese monkey, and the musk deer. If one wants to spot snow leopards and their prey, the Himalayan Tahr, they should visit the upper sections of the Langtang, Lendi, and Yangri Valleys. The red panda may be sighted in Ghodatabela and Polangpati, along with the southern sections of Panch Pokhari, Cholangpati, Magnigoth and Yangri areas. To The mighty Himalayan black bear is one of the animals that throng the Thulo Bharu, Briddim, Timure, Thulo Syabru, and Ghodatabela frequently. The national park is also home to over 250 species of birds. The National bird of Nepal- the Himalayan Monal is the most sought after, along with the Satyr tragopan that falls under the list of protected birds sheltered in the park. Of the thousands of plant species that are housed in the park, 21 are endemic, which include two species of Meconopsis. one species of Zanthoxylum, and two species of Rhododendron.

Nepalis do not have any entry fee to the park while SAARC nationals need to pay NPR 1500 and other foreigners pay NPR 3000. For SAARC and other foreigners, an an additional 13% VAT is charged. Children below the age fo ten are granted free entry, irrespective of their nationalities.

Continuing our tour of Kathmandu…

Boudhanath or the Khasa Chaitya, is one of the holiest Buddhist sites in Nepal, and along with the Swayambhunath, is a very popular tourist site. Known as Khāsti by Newars and as Bauddha or Bodhnāth by speakers of Nepali, it lies about 11 km from the centre and northeastern outskirts of Kathmandu. The stupa’s massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal, and the site became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

The base of the stupa has 108 small depictions of the Dhyani Buddha Amitabha. It is surrounded with a brick wall with 147 niches, each with four or five prayer wheels engraved with the mantra, Om mani padme hum. At the northern entrance where visitors must pass is a shrine dedicated to Ajima, the goddess of smallpox. Every year the stupa attracts many Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims who perform full body prostrations in the inner lower enclosure, walk around the stupa with prayer wheels, chant, and pray. Thousands of prayer flags are hoisted up from the top of the stupa downwards and dot the perimeter of the complex. The influx of many Tibetan refugees from China has seen the construction of over 50 Tibetan gompas or monasteries around Boudhanath.

Swayambhunath is a Buddhist stupa atop a hillock known as Semgu Hill, in the northwestern part of the city. This is among the oldest religious sites in Nepal. Although the site is considered Buddhist, it is revered by both Buddhists and Hindus. The stupa consists of a dome at the base; above the dome, there is a cubic structure with the eyes of Buddha looking in all four directions. There are pentagonal torans above each of the four sides, with statues engraved on them. Behind and above the torana there are thirteen tiers. Above all the tiers, there is a small space above which lies a gajur. If one climbs the 365 steps to reach the top, they are rewarded with picturesque, panoramic views of Kathmandu.

It is written in the Swayambhu Purana that the entire Kathmandu Valley surrounding the temple used to be filled with a lake which attracted large groups of masters and saints. The Buddha Vipassana was one such saint who visited the lake and threw a lotus seed into the waters. From this seed grew a large and beautiful lotus, in the centre of which appeared a stupa that had risen by itself. Hence the place acquired the name, Swayambhunath, which means the ‘self-existent one’ or ‘self-created’. The Tibetan name for the area stands for sublime trees because of the tree varieties found here.

The temple has a nickname, the Monkey Temple, which has an interesting backstory to it. It is believed that Manjushri, who was the Bodhisattva of Wisdom and Learning, was brought up on the hillock on which the temple stands today. He is said to have grown his hair long, thus inviting head lice to it. Each of these head lice is believed to have transformed into a different monkey, all of which live near the temple at present.

The Swayambhunath Temple has a structure which is a storehouse of symbols. There are statues of the two lions which stand as guards at the entrance of the temple. The stupa comprises of a large, hemispherical dome at the base, which represents the entire world. Statues of the Buddha adorn the bottom of this dome, and prayer wheels, engraved with the chant “Om Mani Padme Hum”, surround the base. At the top of the stairs inside is a vast, iconic lightning bolt, called the Vajra, which is planted on top of a smooth copper base, It represents the dharmadhatu and is in the form of a mandala. Above it is a cubical structure with the eyes of the Lord Buddha painted in all four directions. These eyes symbolise compassion and wisdom. Above each pair of eyes is the third eye of the Buddha, which is said to emit cosmic rays when he preaches. Although it cannot summon the creatures belonging to the lower realms, the third eye relieves their pain and suffering when the Buddha preaches. Drawn like a nose in between the two eyes, is a curly symbol which is similar to a question mark in its appearance. This figure is the Nepali symbol of the numero uno, which is symbolic of the unity of all things on this earth and also signifies the sole way to achieve moksha through the teachings of the Buddha.

On all four sides are engraved the figures of the five Buddhas, known as the Pancha Buddhas, which represents the Buddha in Tantrayana in a metaphorical manner. The Pancha Buddhas engraved on the four sides of the cubical structure are – Vairochana, who is the master of the temple and occupies its core, Ratna Sambhava, who symbolises the cosmic element of sensation and sits facing the south, Amoghsiddhi, who faces north and is representative of the cosmic element of confirmation, Akshobhya, who sits facing the east and signifies consciousness, and Amitabha, representing the cosmic element of name while facing the west.

The pentagonal Toran, with figurines carved in them, are present on top of each of the four sides. Proceeding upwards from the Toran are thirteen tiers. Each tier is representative of each stage of nirvana. It signifies the thirteen steps of spiritual realisation that every sentient being has to go through to achieve enlightenment. The small space above the tiers, called Gajur, enhances the beauty of the stupa. Finally, the fluttering prayer flags believed to carry the prayers of the devotees to heaven, wrap up the beauty of the structure magnificently. Guides can be hired for NPR 100. Entry fees for Nepali citizens is free while SAARC nationals pay NPR 50 and foreigners need to pay NPR 200.

Located on the picturesque Kopan Hills, a 20-minute drive from the city centre on the fringes of Kathmandu, Kopan Monastery is a stunning Tibetan Buddhist monastery established between the late 1960s and early 1970s. One can explore the picturesque and tranquil monastery for a few hours, do a retreat, or join one of the courses. The monastery campus is open to all. The monastery is a well-known tourist attraction and draws people who are interested in learning Tibetan Mahayana Buddhism. One can choose to enroll in a short-term or seven-day course to get a gist of this ancient way of living. The facilities are humble but ensure that everyone leaves feeling calm and composed. They have a cafe where tourists can have a simple and wholesome vegetarian meal before taking a nice long stroll in the monastery gardens. Everyone is welcome to witness the peace, even if it is just for an hour.

Kopan Monastery was established by Thubten Yeshe and Thubten Zopa Rinpoche who were the founders of the Foundation of the Preservation of the Mahayana Tradition. In 1969, they bought a piece of land from a royal astrologer in Nepal and around 1971, opened it as a monastery to teach Mahayana Buddhism to people from all over the world. The courses include the teachings of Buddha Shakyamuni, regular guided meditations, formal and informal discussions and a strict vegetarian diet. In the beginning, there were only 25 monks, but as of today, the monastery is home to over 350 people including the monks, the teachers, lamas and the worker staff. In 1981, two nuns joined the monastery and marked a new beginning in its history. Students practice the teachings of Lord Buddha and Lama Tsong Khapa who is the founder of Gelug lineage. The female students now live in the Khachoe Ghakyil Ling Nunnery which is located a little ahead of the Kopan Monastery.

Other than Buddhist monastic education, the monastery also conducts several Monastic events. The Losar or Tibetan New Year, Monlam or Great Prayer Festival, Tsip Shag or students progressing to a higher class, Sukkor Pooja & Rigjung Debate or the completion of beginner level of study, Yarne and Gaya or the observance of the annual Rains Retreat, Ganden Ngamchoe, a day dedicated to Lama Tsong Khapa and other special days of the Buddha are observed and celebrated with great devotion. The monastery is open between 8 am and 5 pm daily and doesn’t allow visitors between 11 November and 20 December.

White Monastery or Seto Gomba, is also known as Amitabha Monastery and is located amidst vivid terrain and lush green landscape. This makes sunsets and sunrises a treat to watch. Visitors can observe the whole of the Kathmandu Valley from this place. The soothing atmosphere draws most travellers wanting to soak up some tranquillity after exploring the bustling city of Kathmandu. Tourists can either hire cabs or rent bikes to reach the hilltop; however, some also prefer hiking up the mountain to make their journey even more interesting. This part of the climb is about 1500 m above sea level. There’s a small fee of NPR 40 that needs to be paid at the gate which is guarded by five idols of Gautama Buddha. Locals believe that these statues guard the Valley of Kathmandu. There is parking space available around the gate and visitors need to walk through the spacious pathway to explore the monastery. Entry to the monastery is allowed only on Saturdays for visitors.

Located in the heart of Kathmandu, the Kathesimbhu Stupa is famous for being the copy of the Swayanbhunath Temple. The courtyard, also called the Swayambhunath Complex, is quite a surprise when tourists find it while exploring the region. It comprises of a stunningly grand 16th-century stupa installed in between smaller stupas. The entrance is marked by a concrete gate, and there are no compound walls to the attraction.

The stunning Kathesimbhu Stupa at the centre has a white dome built on a pedestal with a shikhara kind of a structure on the top in gold. The topmost part has something that resembles tassels and is adorned with strings of prayer flags tied from the buildings that surround the dome to the top centre of the stupa. The smaller stupas have beautiful carvings of Gautama Buddha sitting in a meditative posture. There are two temples at the square, one of which is dedicated to the Goddess of smallpox, Hariti while the other is the Drubgon Jangchup Choeling Monastery.

Located in the south-west of the capital city of Kathmandu, Chandragiri Hill is one of Nepal’s most loved day-trip destinations. The main destination of Chandragiri Hill is the mountaintop, from where spectacular views of the great Himalayan mountain ranges can be seen. The foothills of Chandragiri Hills, where the ticket counter for the cable car and refreshment facilities are present, are located in Thankot, a town around an hour’s drive away from Kathmandu.

The Bhaleshwar Mahadev Temple stands on Chandragiri Hill. It is said that when Shiva’s consort Sati took her life by jumping into the fire in protest of her father insulting Shiva, the God of destruction carried her corpse all around the world in grief, and the forehead part of the goddess fell right here atop Chandragiri Hill. The temple features two levels in the typical pagoda-influenced Nepali architecture, wooden grid windows, and wall carvings of different gods and goddesses. At the porch of the temple, Shiva’s loyal servant and companion, Nandi Bull, sits.

Outside the temple, one can find a towering statue of King Prithvi Narayan Shah standing against the white mountain peaks in the distance. Legend says that Prithvi Narayan Shah took the first glance of Kathmandu valley from Chandragiri Hill as well before conquering, just like the last Malla king did before having to leave it behind. He had then meditated on the hilltop and got blessings of Bhaleshwar Mahadev for his devotion, which allowed him to annex the Kathmandu Valley. The statue stands with a sword in hand and garland around the neck.

The entire stretch of these mountains ranges is the first thing you will see once you land on the hilltop of Chandragiri Hill. From the west, there is the mighty Annapurna Circuit, then only a gap away Nepal’s favourite Manaslu Himal. Towards the north, the magnificent Ganesh Himal spreads its peaks, and on the east, Langtang Himal Range extends to Gaurishankar Himal in a long stretch. If one is in luck with a clear sky and have a good eye, they might sight the peak of Mount Everest in the distance.

Folklore says that when King Ranajit Malla had to leave his kingdom after being defeated by the Gorkhas, he had wept at the Chandragiri hilltop looking down at his beloved empire one last time. When Prithvi Narayan Shah unified the country and made it the Kingdom of Nepal, he used Chandragiri Hill to be one of the four trade passes. Traders during the olden times would cross Chandragiri and continue further south to head towards the Indian plains.

The old trade routes are replaced now with the Tribhuvan Highway, and Chandragiri hilltop is a major tourist attraction, with an excellent combination of natural beauty and cultural significance. The journey to the summit itself is utmost rewarding with the best way to reach the top of Chandragiri Hill via the cable car. The cable car journey takes about 10 minutes and starts from the foot of the mountain near Thankot and goes uphill for around 2.5 km. The top of the hill is 2500 m above sea level. Ticket prices for a one way ride are NPR 415 for Nepali visitors, INR 415 for SAARC country visitors, UDD 9 for Chinese visitors and USD 13 for all others. For a two way trip, it will cost Nepali visitors NPR 700, SAARC nationals, INR 700, Chinese nationals USD 15 and all others USD 22.

Phulchowki is the highest hill located in the Kathmandu Valley at 2791 m and is known for its hikes. The mountain is covered by a natural garden full of beautiful wild roses, yellow jasmine, iris and other native flowers. It takes a few hours to reach the top and return and is, therefore, much advisable to those who are travelling on a time crunch. The climb through the rough terrain covered with dense forests will be worth it after one reaches the top and gets to see the breathtaking view of the valley.

One needs to travel for about 40 minutes from the city centre to reach the base where the hike begins. The slopes are pretty steep at certain points but are full of scenic views. One needs to climb about 9100 feet to reach the hilltop, but once there, they get to witness the stunning view of the Kathmandu Valley covered with dense forests and the mighty River Bagmati gushing through it.

The National Botanical Garden also lies on the route where hikers can see a variety of regional flora, including some rare species. The dense forestation makes the environment suitable for several bird species, making it a perfect attraction for bird watching. The region is also a natural source of iron ore deposits. As one explores the area, they would see rocks in a bluish-purple colour denoting the iron-rich sediments.

Ranipokhari or Queen’s Pond is a historic artificial pond nestled in the heart of Kathmandu. It was built by King Pratap Malla in 1670 for his beloved queen after she lost her son and could not recover from her loss. A large stone statue of an elephant in the south signifies the image of Pratap Malla and his two sons. The Balgopaleshwor Temple stands still inside the temple above the pond. Rani Pokhari is opened once a year during the final day of Tihar, Bhai Tika, and the Chhath festival. The world’s largest Chhath takes place every year in Ranipokhari. The pond is one of Kathmandu’s most famous landmarks and is known for its religious and aesthetic significance.

Kaiser Library, or Keshar Library, is located in Kathmandu’s Kaiser Mahal and contains over 45,000 books from the personal collection of Field Marshal Kaiser Shumsher Rana. It was established in 1969 and has a wide range of books covering subjects including history, law, art, religion, and philosophy. It was a famous tourist attraction, but after Nepal was struck by an earthquake in 2015, the library took a major hit. Although the ground floor has been restored and opened to the public, the grandeur of the place is more or less lost. One may still visit to check out the collection of books and artifacts that were recovered and restored.

The library originally had gorgeous wooden furniture antique decor with mirrors, portraits, statues, taxidermied animals and weapons on display. It had two floors with huge windows to let enough light and air come in. The seating was well planned with dark wood tables and chairs, and all the books were stacked beautifully in wooden racks. What remains now is just the ground floor with the recovered collection stacked haphazardly. There is very little space for readers to sit down and read one of the works of literature, but visitors can borrow some books from the library. The recovered collection has some rare books, first editions and some about a thousand year old. Outside the library is an enchanting garden with fountains, verandas, pavilions, a lotus pool and birdhouses which quite resemble the Edwardian Gardens. The library does not have any entry fees, and is open from 10 am to 4 pm from Sundays to Thursdays and from 10 am to 3 pm on Fridays. It is closed on Saturdays and public holidays.

Located to the east of the famed Kaiser Mahal near Thamel, the Narayanhiti Palace Museum is a former royal palace that was home to the monarchs of Nepal. It is historically important because of the Royal Family Assassination of 2001. The stunning museum showcases the old furniture, art pieces, and ornaments of the royal family and their lthat avish lifestyle once adorning the durbar or main hall of the exquisite palace. The name Narayanhiti is a blend of two words: Narayan signifies the Hindu god Lord Vishnu, and Hiti translates to water spout. The name is particularly significant because of the temple of Lord Vishnu, which is situated right opposite the palace complex. A water spout does adorn the eastern side of the main entrance, thus adding further significance to it.

The Narayanhiti Palace witnessed what is popularly referred to as the greatest tragedy of Nepal. On 1st June, 2001, King Birendra, along with his wife Queen Aishwarya and their family members were slain in a massacre by the Monarch’s son, Prince Dipendra. After fatally injuring his family members, Dipendra shot himself in the head and was declared king while he was in a coma. He breathed his last three days later, after which, Gyanendra, his uncle, ascended the throne. Even though the mystery behind the massacre was not unveiled, it is widely believed that Dipendra assassinated his family because they opposed his marriage to Devyani Rana. In 2008, after the declaration of Nepal as a democratic and secular state, King Gyanendra was given only two weeks to vacate the palace so that the then Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal could take over the country. Narayanhiti Palace was turned into a museum open to the general public from 26th February, 2009.

Narayanhiti Palace is spread across 3794 sq m and is divided into three sections: the private wing, the guest wing, and the state wing. Built in the late Victorian style of architecture, the interior of the palace is home to 52 rooms which are collectively called Sadan, and are named after the districts of the country. Referred to as the Kaski Sadan after the Kaski district, the Reception Hall is adorned with two life-sized stuffed Royal Bengal Tigers which appear to be in their charging postures. The wall beside the staircase holds life-size portraits of the monarchs, each of them painted by Amar Chitrakar. Housed behind the beautiful Gaurishankar Gate, the Kaski Sadan is where the Shah Monarchs addressed the politicians in official matters.

The Throne Room of the Narayanhiti Palace referred to as the Gorkha Baithak, is the core of the palatial complex. This magnificent room is built upon the Hindu temple style of architecture, which includes a colossal 48 feet chandelier hung from a 60 feet high ceiling which resembles a Pagoda and is held by four pillars, each representative of the Naga. The room is ornate with gaudy idols of the Hindu gods Ashta Bhairava and Ashta Matrikas. It is beneath this ceiling where rulers announced their royal proclamations. Situated to the right of the Throne Room is the Dolpa Sadan, which was solely used for the guests of the royal family who were not invited but were allowed to view the proceedings of the Throne Room via a one-way mirror.

Narayanhiti Palace is closed on Tuesdays and on other days is open from 11 am to 3 pm while timings may differ on Wednesdays. Entry fees are NPR 100 for Nepalis, NPR 20 for students, NPR 250 for SAARC nationals and NPR 500 for other foreigners. Cameras and bags are not allowed inside but lockers are available.

Continuing the Kathmandu series.

Located a km from the village of Pharping, the Dakshinkali Temple is one of the most important temples in Nepal and is dedicated to the fierce and feared goddess Kali. Twice a week, animals are sacrificed at this temple—uncastrated male goats and cockerels in particular—as an offering to the ferocious spouse of Lord Shiva. The Dakshinkali Temple derives its name from a compound of the words Dakshin, which means south, and the name Kali, which signifies the deity that is worshipped here. The idol of the goddess is seen standing on top of a corpse, portraying the triumph of good over evil. Embellished with a sword in one hand, a skullcap in another, and a severed head in the third, the four-armed idol represents an image of a strong, empowered divine being who has arrived to conquer evil and emerge as victorious. The temple was built in 1855 by Rani Rashmoni, a devotee of Kali.

The temple is decked with bright lights and fragrant garlands during the Dashain Festival, which is the Nepalese version of Durga Puja that falls in September or October every year and goes on for fifteen days. During this festival, thousands of people come to pray and light incense sticks while several other bring animals along with them as an offering to the Goddess. The temple management arranges grand feasts during these weeks. The mystical aura of the temple is enhanced by the loud chants and the resounding echoes of the musical instruments including the drums, bells, cymbals and conches. It is the best time for people to visit the temple.

The Goddess Mahakali is an intriguing incarnation of the Goddess Parvati, the consort of Lord Shiva, who is also known as Mahakala or Pashupatinath. It is believed that the Goddess Kali appeared in a dream of the Malla ruler who reigned over Nepal in the 14th century. The goddess supposedly ordered the king to construct a temple which would be devoted to her. The king then set out to follow her orders immediately, and the temple was built with an image of the deity carved out from stone positioned in the shrine.

Devotees of the Goddess Kali are firm believers of animal sacrifice as a way to please her and have their wishes come true. Lined in front of the religious place of worship are numerous stalls which sell roosters and goats so that people can sacrifice them on the premises of the temple. This ritual takes place once in the morning and again in the afternoon every Tuesday and Saturday. After the morning sacrifice, the temple gates are closed for a short period to purify the temple before the afternoon sacrifices begin. The sacrificial ceremony lasts just a few seconds for each animal, after which their limp bodies are processed in the temple complex by the priests who are skilled at it. After that, the owners take the meat to their homes for a meal. The temple is open from 6 am to 9 am daily.

The magnificent Taleju temple, located in Durbar Square in Kathmandu, is dedicated to the clan goddess of the Malla kings, Devi Taleju Bhawani. Traditionally, entry into the temple was restricted to kings but has now been extended to all Hindus. It is believed that the temple was constructed in the shape of a Yantra, a form of Mandala, as was directed by the Devi herself. In the middle of Durbar Square, the temple, set atop a pedestal, is a stunning sight. On the ninth day of Dasain, Hindu devotees can enter to offer prayers to the Goddess. Everyone else can explore the shrine from the outside.

Before Nepal was founded, Kathmandu was majorly ruled by the Newars who were ardent worshippers of Goddess Taleju who was believed to be an incarnation of Goddess Durga and the guardian of the kings. She is, therefore, considered to be a powerful deity and is worshipped in the region since the 14th century. Also known as Taleju Bhavani, Goddess Taleju is believed to contain all other Goddesses worshipped by Hindus in the region. According to a legend, Gods fought many demons once but later, when they left to rest, a demon named Mahishasura noticed that the Gods were away resting and declared himself the Lord of the Heaven and the ruler of the Universe. All the gods got angry when they heard this declaration from Mahishasura. In rage, they shot beams of bright light from their foreheads. These beams converged a little distance away and formed an eruption of light from which Goddess Durga was born.

In Kathmandu, the Goddess is worshipped by the Newars who ruled the region before Nepal was established and is said to be the guardian of the Kings of the Malla Dynasty. The temple was built during the reign of King Mahendra Malla. Legend states that the mantra of the goddess ensured the ruler’s succession and victory and therefore after the Shah dynasty dethroned the Mallas, they also started worshipping Goddess Taleju.

The temple is a 35-metre high monument that stands prominently on a pedestal with twelve levels or steps made of stone. On the eighth level, a wall has been built all around the shrine that acts as a compound for the temple. There are 12 smaller shrines in front of this wall. On the other side, there are four more shrines other than the main one. This ancient place of worship has traditional pagoda-style architecture with a three-tiered roof, wooden doors and window frames decorated with intricate carvings.

The Nyatapola Temple is an 18th-century temple located in Bhaktapur. It is the tallest building in the valley and the tallest temple in the country. The temple was built in 1702 and is dedicated to Goddess Siddhi Lakshmi, an incarnation of Goddess Parvati. The idol of the Goddess, which is installed in the sanctum sanctorum, is believed to be extremely fearsome. Although only the temple priests enter the sanctum sanctorum, visitors can explore the rest of the temple. The monument has survived two major earthquakes in the region and has suffered minor damages. It is also, therefore, known for its structural strength.

The temple was built during the reign of King Bhupatindra Malla who belonged to the Malla Dynasty and ruled Bhaktapur between 1692 and 1722. The temple has traditional pagoda-style architecture with a five-storey roof that makes it a strikingly tall building in the region. It took about seventeen months to build the temple during the time. The Goddess it is dedicated to is believed to be Tantric and hence, is also called Tantric Lakshmi.

The Nyatapola Temple is built according to the traditional pagoda style of architecture. The monument has a five-tiered roof. From the bottom till the top of the pagodas, it measures about 30 m highl. The temple is placed over five platforms or terraces built one on top of the other. In the middle of the yard, a stone staircase stretches leading to the temple entrance. Each level has stone statues of mythical protectors, elephants and tigers on either side. Inside, there is a sanctum sanctorum where the idol of the Goddess is placed. Across the remaining temple, Goddess and legendary incarnations in relation the goddess are carved.

According to legend, Lord Bhairava or Lord Shiva once caused havoc in the region. Seeking help, the people called upon Goddess Parvati to help them. The Goddess appeared in the avatar of Siddhi Lakshmi. She is said to be more potent than Lord Bhairava and carried him to control him. The temple was thus built in her honour. And because she is believed to be stronger than Lord Bhairava, her temple was made sturdier and taller than the Bhairava Temple located nearby.

Located on a hilltop, the Vajrayogini or Bajrayogini Temple is a tantrik temple dedicated to the Buddhist Tantric Goddess. It is also known as Bodhisattva’s Temple and is situated in Sankhu, a small place in the Kathmandu Valley. One needs to climb a stone stairway to reach the temple complex, but once there, everyone will be fascinated with the beauty of the temple complex that includes stonework, wood carvings, metalwork, smaller temples, caves and a stupa belonging to the time of Buddha Shakyamuni.

In 2015, the temple was struck by a massive earthquake and its structure took a major hit. Some sections have been restored, but some run a risk of crashing down. Most of it is supported with wooden planks. Tourists, however, can observe them from the outside and even click pictures.

The Seto Machindranath Temple is a Hindu and Buddhist temple located in Jana Bahal. The temple is believed to be built around 10th century and houses the idol of Seto Machindranath, also known as Janabaha Dyo. During the month of Chaitra, a three days long chariot procession festival of the Lord is held here.

The Akash Bhairav is also known as the Lord of the Sky. Located 5 mins from Durbar Square, Akash Bhairav is worshipped because it is believed that worshipping him ensures strength, safety and goodwill for Nepal and its people. Indra Jatra, an annual 8-day festival devoted to the god, is also celebrated with great enthusiasm. Followers from all over the world come to Kathmandu to be a part of the important pooja rituals performed during this time of the year. The temple is open from 6 am to 7 pm every day.

Kala Bhairav is a grand temple located at Durbar Square in the Hanuman Dhoka complex and is dedicated to a fierce manifestation of Lord Shiva. It is an open-air area in the complex and has a gigantic 12-foot-tall idol of Kala Bhairav sculpted in the 6th century, regarded as the largest in the world. The idol and the structures that surround it are made of stone and were carved in the 5th century. It was discovered by King Pratap of the Malla dynasty amidst paddy fields in the 17th century. At that time, it was believed that anyone who would lie down in front of the idol would attain freedom from their lives, which may not be necessarily true. However, locals still continue worshipping this grand and fierce incarnation of Lord Shiva. Kala Bhairav is the terrifying avatar of Lord Shiva who is also called the Lord of Time and Death. He is worshipped by the Hindus as the guru of Lord Shani who is ruled by the planet Saturn and as Manjusri, Heruka, Yamantaka, and Vajrabhairava in Vajrayana Buddhism. The idol of Kala Bhairav is seen standing in a violent form, stepping over a dead body holding a decapitated head in one hand.

According to legend, Kala Bhairav had decapitated one of Lord Brahma’s five heads and as punishment, was made to carry that head and roam around for many years till he was forgiven. This avatar of Lord Shiva is fierce and unforgiving. He is mostly associated with vetala or ghouls and pisaca or ghosts. The name Bhairava literally means a terrifying form that is not afraid of anything. Thus, he can protect his devotees. He is also believed to be the supreme one after Lord Vishnu and can create, sustain, and dissolve life on earth. The temple is open between 10 am and 5 pl daily.

Also located in Darbar Square, the Jagannath Temple is famous for its architecture and religious significance. It is a two-story building raised over a platform and built in traditional pagoda-style architecture, mostly made of wood and bricks. Some parts of the temple were damaged in the 2015 earthquake. However, some portions have been restored and are open for tourists to explore.

A tourist draw at the temple are the exquisite erotic carving all over the structure. It was built in the early 16th century during the reign of King Mahendra of the Mala dynasty and is one of the oldest shrines in the city. The temple is open from 10:30 am and 5 pm.

The glorious temple of Lord Shiva and his Consort Goddess Parvati, the Shiva Parvati Temple, is located in Durbar Square. It is as important as the Kumari Bahal or the Kasthamandap and is often visited by pilgrims and tourists. Built in the 18th century by Bahadur Shah, every inch of the temple wall is covered in immensely intricate carvings.

From a distance in the outer portion of Durbar Square, one would notice someone looking down a window of a two-story pagoda-style building that opens into a courtyard. It is, in fact, the idols of Shiva and Parvati installed in the window right in the center of the top floor of the temple. The striking idols colored in white and blue are seen wearing colorful accessories and blessing the visitors.

The grand building has been built over a raised three-level platform which resembles an ancient performance stages at Durbar Square. One can climb up a small flight of stairs at the entrance where two ancient stone statues of lions are installed and explore the shrine as they circumambulate. It is believed that the lions guard the temple. As one explores further, they would notice how beautiful the intricate carvings on the wood are. There are different forms of Lord Shiva, Goddess Parvati and other captivating traditional designs on the structure too. This area of Kathmandu is usually traversed on foot and shouldn’t be missed when in Durbar Square.

The Annapurna Temple located at Asan Tole is dedicated to Goddess Annapurna, the goddess of abundance. Her name stands for food or anna and fulfilment or purna and symbolises that her blessings fulfil every wish and always provides abundance. At the temple, an old bowl full of grain sits at the centre, representing the Goddess. It is believed that walking around the shrine, touching a coin to the heads and then throwing it into the temple will bring prosperity and abundance of all worldly goods.

Durbar Square means a place of palaces and so like its name there are three preserved Durbar Squares in Kathmandu Valley and one unpreserved in Kirtipur. The Kathmandu Durbar Square is in the old city and has heritage buildings representing the four kingdoms: Kantipur, Lalitpur, Bhaktapur, Kirtipur; the earliest being the Licchavi dynasty. The complex has 50 temples and several palaces and courtyards and is distributed in two quadrangles of the Durbar Square. The outer quadrangle has the Kasthamandap, Kumari Ghar, and Shiva-Parvati Temple; the inner quadrangle has the Hanuman Dhoka palace. The squares were severely damaged in the April 2015 earthquake.

While the southern part of the complex houses the open Basantapur Square area, the central Durbar Square area occupies the western portion. For many years, the former used to be stable, which housed royal elephants. Today, it is a site that houses souvenir stalls. In the northeast part of the complex runs the second part of the square. In this area, the entrance to the glorious Hanuman Dhoka Complex is planted, with a beautiful assortment of temples nestled behind it. The place is an active walkway that connects many streets together for the general public. Even though the durbar is no longer used for coronations, it is thronged by people during festivals like Dashain, Indra Jatra, Machhindranath Jatra, and Gaijatra. The entire Durbar Square complex was gazetted as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1979.

Hanuman Dhoka is a complex of structures with the royal palace of the Malla kings and of the Shah dynasty. It is spread over five acres. The eastern wing with ten courtyards is the oldest part, dating to the mid-16th century. It was expanded by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century with many temples. The royal family lived in this palace until 1886 when they moved to Narayanhiti Palace. The stone inscription outside is in fifteen languages.

Kumari Ghar is a palace in the centre of the Kathmandu city, next to the Durbar square where a royal Kumari selected from several Kumaris resides. Kumari or Kumari Devi, is the tradition of worshipping young pre-pubescent girls as manifestations of the divine female energy or devi in South Asian countries. In Nepal, the selection process is very rigorous. Previously, during the time of the monarchy, the queen and the priests used to appoint the proposed Kumari with delicate process of astrological examination and physical examination of 32 gunas. The china, an ancient Hindu astrological report of the Kumari and the reigning king, being said to be similar. The Kumari is believed to be a bodily incarnation of the goddess Taleju, the Nepali name for Goddess Durga until she menstruates, after which it is believed that the goddess vacates her body. Serious illness or a major loss of blood from an injury also causes her to revert to common status. The current Kumari, Trishna Shakya, age three at the time of appointment, was installed in September 2017 succeeding Matina Shakya who was the first Kumari of Kathmandu after the end of the monarchy.

Kasthamandap is a three-storeyed temple enshrining an image of Gorakhnath. It was built in the 16th century in the pagoda style. The name of Kathmandu is a derivative of the word Kasthamandap. The temple was built under the reign of King Laxmi Narsingha Malla. Kasthamandap stands at the intersection of two ancient trade routes linking India and Tibet at Maru square. It was originally built as a rest house for travellers.

Singha Sattal or Silyan Sattal is a traditional rest house. Inside the Sattal is a shrine of Natyeshwar, the God of Dance. It was originally built in the 12th century. The Kabindrapul Temple is a 17th century wooden temple houses the God of Music and is also known as Dhansa Dega. Also known as Maru Ganesh, Ashok Binayak is a small Ganesh shrine located at the Eastern part of Kathmandu Durbar Square. The shrine is single-storeyed and has bars around it. The inside walls are gold-plated. Gaddi Baithak is a building located right opposite the Kumari Ghar. The monument is now restored after the 2015 earthquake. It is a white coloured neo-classical building originally built in 1908 AD by Prime Minister Chandra Samsher Rana. The Kotilingeshwara Mahadev Temple is one of the most important monuments built by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century. The temple has a circular plan and three metallic circular roofs. The Bhagwati Temple located at Durbar Square was originally a Narayan temple. It was built by Jagajaya Malla in the eighteenth century. The Narayan idol is believed to have stolen by Prithvi Narayan Shah and replaced by an image of Bhagwati.

The Great Bell was built by King Rana Bahadur Shah in 1797. This ornate bell is located next to the Degutaleju temple and is rung during the puja at the temple. King Pratap Malla’s column or Pratap Dhwaj is a stone pillar that had the King’s statue looking towards the Degutaleju temple. The pillar remains but the statue has broken down in the earthquake of 2015. As the name suggests, this temple is dedicated to Lord Indra. However, inside there’s a Lingam, suggesting the temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. There’s also a Garuda is the Southern side suggesting the temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The Tana Deval Temple is located in front of the Taleju temple. The temple has three carved doorways and painted struts with the Mother Goddess. The temple is surrounded by a wall.

After a devastating earthquake of 2015, a massive chunk of the southern section of the Durbar Square was torn down, and physical cracks and crevices became prominent in the buildings that remained intact. Kathmandu Durbar Square had fallen victim to a massive earthquake in 1934 previously, but was restored.

There is a ticket counter at the entrance. Foreigners need to pay NPR 1000, SAARC nationals pay NPR 150 and Nepalis enter for free. Darbar Square is closed on Saturdays and is open from 10 am to 5 pm on other days.

Basantapur Tower was the tallest tower in Kathmandu Durbar Square. It has nine stories, the top two floors of which were destroyed in the 2015 earthquake that hit Nepal. The levels have been restored, and tourists can explore the tower from the outside and the inside. The tower is an 18th-century monument built during the reign of King Prithvi Narayan of the Shah Dynasty. Most of it is hidden behind scaffoldings, and one needs to take a closer look to see the ancient carvings on the restored wooden structure. The entrance is through Lohan Chowk up a narrow staircase, and one can enjoy a fabulous view of Kathmandu through the windows on every floor. Entry fees which are included in the entry fee for Darbar Square is NPR 1200 for foreigners, NPR 240 for SAARC nationals and free for students.

Keep reading for more Kathmandu next week!

Kathmandu

The seat of the federal government and Nepal’s most populous city, Kathmandu is also the capital of Nepal. It is located in the Kathmandu Valley, a large valley surrounded by hills in the high plateaus in central Nepal, at an altitude of 1,400 m.

The city is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, founded in the 2nd century AD. The valley was historically called the ‘Nepal Mandala’ and has been the home of the Newar people. The city was the royal capital of the Kingdom of Nepal and has been home to the headquarters of the South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation (SAARC) since 1985. Today, it is the seat of government of the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, established in 2008, and is part of Bagmati Province.

Kathmandu is and has been for many years the centre of Nepal’s history, art, culture, and economy. It has a multi-ethnic population within a Hindu and Buddhist majority. Tourism is an important part of the economy in the city. The city is considered the gateway to the Nepal Himalayas and is home to several World Heritage Sites: the Durbar Square, Swayambhu Mahachaitya, Bouddha and Pashupatinath. 

The indigenous Nepal Bhasa term for Kathmandu is Yen. The Nepali name Kathmandu comes from Kasthamandap, a building that stood in Kathmandu Durbar Square and was completely destroyed by the April 2015 Nepal Earthquake. The building has since been reconstructed. In Sanskrit, Kāṣṭha means wood and Maṇḍapa means pavilion. This public pavilion, also known as Maru Satta in Newari, was rebuilt in 1596 by Biseth in the period of King Laxmi Narsingh Malla. The three-storey structure was made entirely of wood and used no iron nails nor supports. According to legend, all the timber used to build the pagoda was obtained from a single tree. The city is called Kāṣṭhamaṇḍap in a vow that Buddhist priests still recite to this day. During medieval times, the city was sometimes called Kāntipur, which is derived from two Sanskrit words – Kānti meaning beauty and Pur meaning a place which gives the city the name meaning city of light.

Among the indigenous Newar people, Kathmandu is known as Yeṃ Dey, and Patan and Bhaktapur are known as Yala Dey and Khwopa Dey respectively. Yem is the shorter form of Yambu, which originally referred to the northern half of Kathmandu. The older northern settlements were referred to as Yambi while the southern settlement was known as Yangala. Archaeological excavations in parts of Kathmandu have found evidence of ancient civilisations. The oldest of these findings is a statue, found in Maligaon, that was dated at 185 AD. 

According to the Swayambhu Purana, present-day Kathmandu was once a huge and deep lake named Nagdaha, as it was full of snakes. The lake was cut drained by Bodhisattva Manjushri with his sword, and the water was evacuated out from there. He then established a city called Manjupattan, and made Dharmakar the ruler of the valley land. After some time, a demon named Banasura closed the outlet, and the valley again turned into a lake. Krishna came to Nepal, killed Banasura, and again drained out the water by cutting the edge of Chobhar hill with this Sudarshana Chakra. He brought some cowherds along with him and made Bhuktaman the king of Nepal. Kotirudra Samhita of Shiva Purana, Chapter 11, Shloka 18 refers to the place as Nayapala city, which was famous for its Pashupati Shivalinga. The name Nepal probably originates from this city Nayapala.

The Licchavis from Vaisali in modern-day Bihar, migrated north and defeated the Kirats, establishing the Licchavi dynasty, circa 400 AD. During this era, following the genocide of Shakyas in Lumbini by Virudhaka, the survivors migrated north and entered the forest monastery, masquerading as Koliyas. From Sankhu, they migrated to Yambu and Yengal or Lanjagwal and Manjupattan and established the first permanent Buddhist monasteries of Kathmandu. This created the basis of Newar Buddhism, which is the only surviving Sanskrit-based Buddhist tradition in the world. With their migration, Yambu was called Koligram and Yengal was called Dakshin Koligram during most of the Licchavi era. Eventually, the Licchavi ruler Gunakamadeva merged Koligram and Dakshin Koligram, founding the city of Kathmandu. 

The city was designed in the shape of Chandrahrasa, the sword of Manjushri, surrounded by eight barracks guarded by Ajimas. One of these barracks is still in use at Bhadrakali, in front of Singha Durbar. The city served as an important transit point in the trade between India and Tibet, leading to tremendous growth in architecture. 

The Licchavi era was followed by the Malla era. Rulers from Tirhut, upon being attacked by the Delhi Sultanate, fled north to the Kathmandu valley. They intermarried with Nepali royalty, and this led to the Malla era. The devastating earthquake which claimed the lives of a third of Kathmandu’s population led to the destruction of most of the architecture of the Licchavi era and the loss of literature collected in various monasteries within the city. Despite the initial hardships, Kathmandu rose to prominence again and, during most of the Malla era, dominated the trade between India and Tibet and the Nepali currency became the standard currency in trans-Himalayan trade. During the later part of the Malla era, Kathmandu Valley comprised four fortified cities: Kantipur, Lalitpur, Bhaktapur, and Kirtipur. These served as the capitals of the Malla confederation of Nepal and competed with each other in the arts, architecture, esthetics, and trade, resulting in tremendous development. 

The Gorkha Kingdom ended the Malla confederation after the Battle of Kathmandu in 1768. This marked the beginning of the modern era in Kathmandu. The Battle of Kirtipur was the start of the Gorkha conquest of the Kathmandu Valley. Kathmandu was adopted as the capital of the Gorkha empire, and the empire itself was dubbed Nepal. During the early part of this era, Kathmandu maintained its distinctive culture. The Rana rule over Nepal started with the Kot massacre of 1846. During this massacre, most of Nepal’s high-ranking officials were massacred by Jung Bahadur Rana and his supporters. Another massacre, the Bhandarkhal Massacre, was also conducted by Kunwar and his supporters in Kathmandu. During the Rana regime, Kathmandu’s alliance shifted from anti-British to pro-British; leading to the construction of the first buildings in the style of Western European architecture. The Rana rule was marked by despotism, economic exploitation and religious persecution. 

Located in the northwestern part of the Kathmandu Valley to the north of the Bagmati River, Kathmandu covers an area of 50.7 sq km with an average elevation of 1,400 m. The city is bounded by several other municipalities of the Kathmandu valley: south of the Bagmati by Lalitpur Metropolitan City or Patan, with which it forms one urban area surrounded by a ring road, to the southwest by Kirtipur and to the east by Madyapur Thimi. To the north the urban area extends into several municipalities; Nagarjun, Tarakeshwor, Tokha, Budhanilkantha, Gokarneshwor and Kageshwori Manohara. However, the urban agglomeration extends well beyond the neighbouring municipalities, and nearly covers the entire Kathmandu Valley.

Kathmandu is dissected by eight rivers, the main river of the valley, the Bagmati and its tributaries, of which the Bishnumati, Dhobi Khola, Manohara Khola, Hanumante Khola, and Tukucha Khola are predominant. The mountains from where these rivers originate have passes which provide access to and from Kathmandu and its valley. The ancient trade route between India and Tibet that passed through Kathmandu enabled a fusion of artistic and architectural traditions from other cultures to be amalgamated with local art and architecture. The monuments of Kathmandu City have been influenced over the centuries by Hindu and Buddhist religious practices. The architectural treasure of the Kathmandu valley has been categorised under the well-known seven groups of heritage monuments and buildings which in 2006 was declared as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. 

Pashupatinath Temple is a famous 5th century Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Located on the banks of the Bagmati River, Pashupatinath Temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Kathmandu and served as the seat of the national deity, Pashupatinath, until Nepal was secularised. A significant part of the temple was destroyed by Mughal invaders in the 14th century and little or nothing remains of the original 5th-century temple exterior. The temple as it stands today was built in the 19th century, although the image of the bull and the black four-headed image of Pashupati are at least 300 years old. The temple complex consists of 518 small temples and a main pagoda house. It is believed that the Jyotirlinga housed in the Pashupatinath temple is the head of the body, which is made up of the twelve Jyotirlinga in India. The temple was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979 with Shivaratri, or the night of Shiva, the most important festival that takes place here, attracting thousands of devotees and holy men.

The temple stretches across both the banks of the beautiful and sacred Bagmati River on the eastern fringes of the capital city of Kathmandu. Only Hindus are allowed to enter the temple premises, non-Hindus are allowed to view the temple only from the across the Bagmati River. The priests who perform the services at this temple are Brahmins from Karnataka in southern India and have been serving the temple since the time of the Malla king Yaksha Malla. This tradition is believed to have been started at the request of Adi Shankara who sought to unify the states of Bhāratam, a region in south Asia believed to be ruled by a mythological king Bharata, by encouraging cultural exchange. This procedure is followed in other temples around India, which were sanctified by Adi Shankara.

The temple has four entrances in the four geographical directions. The main entrance is situated in the west and is the only one that is opened daily while the other three remain closed except during festival periods. Only Nepali practising Buddhists and practising Hindus are permitted to enter the temple courtyard. Practising Hindus who have descended from the west, along with other non-Hindu visitors, except Jain and Sikh communities with Indian ancestry, are not permitted to enter the temple complex. The others are allowed to have a glimpse of the main temple from the adjacent bank of the Bagmati River and are charged a nominal fee to visit the plethora of smaller temples that adorn the external premises of the Pashupatinath temple complex. No devotee is allowed to step into the innermost Garbhagriha. However, they are allowed to see the idol from the premises of the outer sanctum.

There are many legends that are attached to the Pashupatinath Temple. In the cow’s tale, Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati once transformed themselves into antelopes and visited the dense forest on the eastern bank of the Bagmati River. Enamoured with the beauty of the place, Lord Shiva decided to stay back as a deer. The other deities soon came to know of this and pestered him to resume his divine form by gripping one of his horns, which broke in the process. This broken horn used to be worshipped as a Shivalinga but was buried and lost after a few years. Several centuries later, a herdsman found one of his cows showering milk on the site. Astonished, he dug deep into the site only to find the divine Shivalinga.

According to Gopalraj Aalok Vamsavali, the oldest chronicle of Nepal, the Pashupatinath Temple was constructed by Supushpa Deva, one of the Lichchavi rulers who ruled way before King Manadeva. Another story is that Pashupatinath Temple was already present in the form of a linga shaped Devalaya before Supushpa Deva’s arrival. He constructed a five-storey temple for Lord Shiva on that spot. As days rolled by, the necessity for the renovation of the holy shrine arose, before it was finally reconstructed by King Shivadeva. Later, King Ananta Malla added a roof to it. 

The temple is built in the pagoda style of architecture, with cubic constructions and carved wooden rafters or tundals on which they rest, and two-level roofs made of copper and gold. The main complex of the temple is constructed in the Nepalese pagoda architectural style. The roof is made of copper and are gilded with gold, while the main doors are coated with silver. The main temple houses a gold pinnacle, known as Gajur, and two Garbhagrihas. While the inner garbhagriha is home to the idol of Lord Shiva, the outer area is an open space that resembles a corridor. The prime attraction of the temple complex is the sizable golden statue of Lord Shiva’s vehicle – Nandi the bull.

Bound with a serpent covered in silver, the prime deity is a Mukhalinga made of stone which rests upon a silver yoni base. The Shiva Lingam is one metre high and has four faces in four directions, each representing a different aspect of Lord Shiva, namely – Sadyojata or Varun, Tatpurusha, Aghora, and Vamadeva or Ardhanareeswara. Another imaginative face of Ishana is believed to point towards the zenith. Each face is said to represent the five primary elements, which include air, earth, ether, fire, and water. Tiny hands protrude out from each face and are shown to be holding a kamandalu in the left hand and a rudraksha mala in the right. The idol is decked in golden attire, or vastram.

The most extraordinary feature of the Pashupatinath Temple is that the main idol can be touched only by four priests. Two sets of priests carry out the daily rites and rituals in the temple, the first being the Bhandari and the second being the Bhatt priests. The Bhatt are the only ones who can touch the deity and perform the religious rites on the idol, while the Bhandaris are the caretakers of the temple.

The temple is usually full of the elderly who believe that those who die in the temple are reincarnated as human beings, and all the misconducts of their previous lives are forgiven. The temple is open from 9 to 11 am when all four doors of the temple are opened during the abhisheka time and is the only time when all the four faces of the Shiva Lingam are visible to devotees.

Visitors can purchase the basic abhishekam ticket from the counter at the entrance for NPR 1100. This covers various pujas including the Rudrabhisheka. The Abhisheka is performed depending on the direction from which the face of the deity is viewed. The temple is open from 4 am to 12 noon and then again between 5 to 9 pm. The inner courtyard is open between 4 am and 7 pm while the sanctum sanctorum is open during the temple opening hours. Apart from abhisheka time, devotees can worship from all the four entrances from 9:30 am to 1:30 pm. Entry is free for Indian and Nepali citizens while for foreigners and SAARC nationals, one needs to pay NPR 1000 per person. A guide will cost about NPR 1000 who will walk visitors through the temple complex and talk about the traditions and rituals of the Pashupatinath temple.

Budhanilkantha Temple is an open-air shrine located at the foothills of the Shivpuri Hill in Kathmandu Valley. It is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and houses an exceptional idol of the presiding deity seen in a reclining posture in a pool of water. It is the largest stone statue in Nepal. The temple attracts not just devotees but also tourists in large numbers, especially during the occasion of Haribondhini Ekadashi Mela, which is held annually on the 11th day of Kartik month of the Hindus, usually in October or November. 

The name Budhanilkantha literally means ‘old blue throat’ and is believed to be sculpted during the reign of Vishnu Gupta, a monarch who served under the King of the valley of Kathmandu, King Bhimarjuna Dev, in the 7th century. It is believed the statue was discovered by a farmer and his wife while ploughing a field. As they were ploughing, they struck something and blood started oozing out of the ground. On digging further, they found a gigantic idol of Lord Vishnu. There’s also a legend about a curse of visiting the temple. King Pratap Malla is said to have had a vision which made him believe that the Kings would die if they visited the temple. Therefore, no King ruling Nepal ever visited this temple.

The idol has been reclining on Sheshnaag floating in a pool of water for years and is believed to be a miracle. After the mid-1900s, a small sample of the idol was tested and it was found that it is low-density silica-based stone with properties similar to the lava rock. The temple can be combined with a trip to the Shivpuri National Park. The Budhanilkantha Temple is open from 6 am to 6 p, and the morning rituals start at 7 am.

Once the royal palace of the Malla kings and the Shah dynasty, Hanuman Dhoka is a complex of ancient structures with some as old as mid 16th century. Located in the Darbar Square of Kathmandu, it is locally known as Hanuman Dhoka Darbar, the name of which is derived from an antique idol of Lord Hanuman near the main entrance of an ancient palace. ‘Dhoka’ which means door in the local language, Hanuman Dhoka is spread over  5 acres and was severely destroyed during the 2015 earthquake. 

The entrance of the complex is located on the west end of the durbar and has an ancient statue of Lord Hanuman on the left side of the palace. Covered in orange gauze, it is believed that Lord Hanuman protects the palace. Every day, many devotees visit the statue to offer their prayers. The vermillion smeared statue is one of the oldest structures in the complex. Another statue right next to Lord Hanuman is that of Narasimha gorging on a demon Hiranyakashipu, built during the reign of King Pratap Malla. The outside of the palace has an inscription on a tablet made of stone. It is etched in fifteen different languages and is believed that if the inscriptions are read correctly, the tablet will ooze out milk.

The east side of Hanuman Dhoka houses the Nasal Chok Courtyard dedicated to Lord Shiva. King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah was crowned in this area of the complex in 1975. The courtyard has intricately carved wooden frames, doorways with carvings of Hindu deities, and beautiful windows. The door leads to the private chambers of King Malla and an audience chamber. A Maha Vishnu Temple once existed on this side of the complex which was destroyed in an earthquake in 1934. The eastern wall now bears a beautiful painting of Lord Vishnu in a verandah. One can check out the throne of King Malla and beautiful portraits of the Shah Kings here. This section also has a Panchmukhi Hanuman Temple and a nine-story tower called the Basantpur Tower.

A little ahead is the Mul Chowk which is dedicated to Goddess Taleju Bhawani. The Mallas were ardent believers of Goddess Taleju. This section has some shrines and is considered to be the best place to perform certain important rituals. The temple is located on the south of the courtyard and has a golden Torana or a door garland. As one enters, they would see several images of Goddesses Ganga and Yamuna before reaching the idol of the presiding Goddess inside the ancient triple-roofed structure.

The northern section of the palace has the Sundari and the Mohan Chok which are no longer open for the tourists. The Mohan Chok was the residential courtyard for the kings during the reign of the Malla Kings. In fact, only the princes born in this part of the palace were considered as an heir to the throne. This courtyard houses the Sun Dhara, a golden waterspout. The water is believed to have originated from Budhanilkantha and was, therefore, used by the Kings to perform ablutions. The section on the south-east of this courtyard is where one can find four watchtowers. These towers were built during the reign of the first Gorkha King, King Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1768. His royal family stayed at the palace till the late 1800s before relocating to the Narayanhiti Palace in Kathmandu.

Hanuman Dhoka houses museums where one can get a glimpse into the history and lifestyle of Nepali royalty. These are the Tribhuwan Museum, the King Mahendra Memorial Museum, the King Birendra Museum, and the Palace Museum. One can find exhibits of artefacts belonging to the king, from ancient coins, dazzling jewels, exquisite thrones, fascinating stone and woodwork, furniture, striking weapons, and intricate carvings from the temples. The museums also have recreations of the king’s personal quarters. A section of the grand museums also exhibits details about significant changes that have played a major role in charting its history. History buffs would find this place to be a rich source of information from the old times in Nepal. The museum is open from 10:30 am to 4:30 pm, Tuesdays to Saturdays and from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm on Sundays. Its is closed on Mondays. Entry fees are  NPR 750 per person for foreigners and NPR 150 per person for SAARC Citizens