Celebrated as colourfully as the festival of Holi, the festival of Gangaur is celebrated in Rajasthan as well as some parts of Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, and West Bengal. One of the most important festivals in Rajasthan, it is celebrated by women who worship Gauri, the wife of Lord Shiva during March–April. Gangaur is a celebration of spring, harvest, marital fidelity, and childbearing. The name comes from a portmanteau of Gana and Gaur where Gana is a synonym for Lord Shiva and Gaur stands for Gauri or Parvati who symbolises saubhagya or marital bliss. For the people of Rajasthan, Goddess Parvati represents perfection and marital love and so the Gangaur festival is very important.
The festival also marks the celebration of spring and harvest. Gana signifies Lord Shiva, and Gangaur symbolises Lord Shiva and Parvati together. As per legends, Gauri won Lord Shiva’s affection and love with her deep devotion and meditation. And after that, Gauri visited her paternal home during Gangaur to bless her friends with marital bliss. The festival rituals start right after the day of Holi and attract a large number of visitors and tourists.
Married women pray for a happy married life as well as the welfare, health, and long life of their husbands while those unmarried worship Gauri to be blessed with a good husband. Migrants to Kolkata started celebrating Gangaur and this celebration is more than a century old in Kolkata.
The festival commences on the first day of the month of Chaitra, the day following Holi, and continues for 16 days. For a newly-wedded girl, it is binding to observe the full course of 18 days of the festival that comes after her marriage. Even unmarried girls fast for the full period of 16 days and eat only one meal a day. Festivity consummates on the 3rd day of the Shukla paksha of the Chaitra month. Fairs or Gangaur Melas are held throughout the 18 days.
Images of Isar or Shiva and Gauri or Parvati are made of clay and in some Rajput families, permanent wooden images are painted afresh every year by reputed painters called matherans on the eve of the festival. A distinct difference between the idols of Teej and Gangaur is that the idol will have a canopy during the Teej Festival while the Gangaur idol would not have a canopy. These figures are then placed within baskets along with wheatgrass and flowers; wheat plays an important role in the rituals as it signifies harvest. People also buy earthen pots known locally as Kunda, and decorate them in a traditional Rajasthani painting style called maandna. It is customary for married women to receive gift hampers from their parents known as Sinjara, which comprises clothes, jewellery items, makeup and sweets which are generally sent on the second last day of the festival which the women use to get ready on the final or main celebration day. The ladies decorate their hands and feet by drawing designs with Mehndi or Henna.
Ghudlias are earthen pots with numerous holes all around and a lamp lit inside them. On the evening of the 7th day after Holi, unmarried girls go around singing songs of ghudlia carrying the pots with a burning lamp inside, on their heads. On their way, they collect small presents of cash, sweets, jaggery, ghee, and oil and this continues for 10 days i.e. up to the conclusion of the Gangaur festival when the girls break their pots and throw the debris into the well or a tank and enjoys a feast with the collection made.
The festival reaches its climax during the last three days. The images of Gauri and Isar are dressed in new garments specially made for the occasion. Unmarried girls and married women decorate the images and make them look like living figures. At an auspicious hour in the afternoon, a procession is taken out with the images of Isar and Gauri, placed on the heads of married women. Songs are sung about the departure of Gauri to her husband’s house. The procession comes back after offering water on the first two days. On the final day, she faces in the same direction as Isar and the procession concludes in the consignment of all images in the water of a tank or well. The women bid farewell to Gauri and turn their eyes and the Gangaur festival comes to an end.
Celebrated throughout Rajasthan, however, the most notable festivities happen in Udaipur, Jaisalmer, Jodhpur, Nathdwara and Bikaner. In Udaipur, this festival coincides with the Mewar Festival which takes place during the two days following it.
In Jaipur, a sweet dish called a ghewar is characteristic of the Gangaur festival with people buying the sweet to eat and distribute. A procession, with the image of Gauri, commences from the Zanani-Deodhi of the City Palace, then passes through Tripolia Bazaar, Chhoti Chaupar, Gangauri Bazaar, Chaugan stadium and finally converges near the Talkatora. Old palanquins, chariots, elephants, bullock carts, and folk performances make this procession all the grander.
In Udaipur, there is a dedicated Ghat named after Gangaur. The Gangaur Ghat or Gangori Ghat is situated on the waterfront of Lake Pichola and serves as the prime location for the celebration of multiple festivals, including the Gangaur festival. Traditional processions of Gangaur commences from the City Palace, and several other places, which passes through various areas of the city. The procession is headed by old palanquins, chariots, bullock carts and performances by folk artists. After the processions are complete, the idols of Gan and Gauri are brought to this ghat and immersed in Lake Pichola. Women try to balance brass pitchers on their heads, which is another attraction of this fiesta. The celebration is concluded with fireworks on the banks of the lake.
In other parts of the state, on the final day, colourful parades carrying bejewelled images of Goddess Parvati proceed all over the villages and cities, and this is accompanied by local bands.
I have mentioned before that dal is an integral part of Indian cuisine and this dal comes to us from the state of Rajasthan. I have been curious about this dal for a while now and when I finally made it, I had to share it.
This dal is usually made from five different types of dal, but you can play with the types of dal and use less than five or more if you want. It usually made from toor dal, moong dal, chana dal, moong dal and black urad dal. The dal becomes quite thick when it cools down so it needs to be made slightly thinner than usual.
Panchmel Dal
Ingredients:
¼ cup toor dal
¼ cup urad dal
¼ cup moong dal
¼ cup masoor dal
¼ cup chana dal
¾ tsp turmeric
3 bay leaves
4 cloves
1 black cardamom
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 dried red chilli
1¼ tsp chilli powder
1 tsp coriander powder
1 tsp cumin powder
½ tsp garam masala
1 tbsp crushed Kasuri Methi
3-4 tbsp ghee
2 dried red chillis
1 tsp ginger garlic paste
2 medium-sized finely chopped onion
2 finely chopped medium-sized tomatoes
Salt to taste
Finely chopped coriander leaves to garnish
Method:
Wash and rinse the dals multiple times. Soak them in hot water for a few hours.
Once the dals are soaked, drain the water and transfer the soaked dals to a pressure cooker.
Add ½ tsp turmeric powder, ½ tsp salt, 2 bay leaves, 1 tsp ghee and water to cover the dals and pressure cook for about 6-7 whistles.
When the pressure reduces, open the pressure cooker, and check if the dals are cooked. Mash lightly and keep aside.
In another pan, heat about 2 tbsp ghee and add the balance bay leaf, the black cardamom, 1 tsp tsp cumin seeds and 1 dried chilli.
Saute the spices on a low flame until the spices start becoming fragrant.
At this point, add the finely chopped onion, and saute until the onions become translucent.
When the onions become golden brown, add 1 tsp chilli powder, ¼ tsp turmeric powder, 1 tsp cumin powder and some salt and saute for a while.
When the spices have mixed well into the onion paste, add the finely chopped tomatoes and saute until the tomatoes become soft, mushy and start to disintegrate.
When this whole mixture starts bubbling, add the cooked dals and mix well adjusting consistency as required.
Cover and simmer on a low to medium flame for about 10 minutes or until the flavours are well absorbed.
Then add the garam masala, crush the Kasuri Methi in the palms of your hands and add to the dal.
In a smaller skillet, heat the balance ghee and add the balance cumin seeds, ¼ tsp chillu powder and the remaining dried chilli and let it splutter.
Pour this tempering into the dal, add the coriander leaves and serve hot with rice or Indian flatbreads.
After visiting Jaipur and Udaipur earlier this week, let’s continue our journey in exploring more of Rajasthan by heading slightly north-west, arounf 250 km from Udaipur to the city known as the Blue City or Jodhpur.
Jodhpur – The Blue City The second-largest city in the state, and formerly the seat of a princely state of the same name, Jodhpur has historically been the capital of the kingdom known as Marwar. The city is a popular tourist destination, featuring many palaces, forts and temples, set in the stark landscape of the Thar Desert.
The city of Jodhpur was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a Rajput chief of the Rathore clan. Jodha succeeded in conquering the surrounding territory and thus founded a kingdom which came to be known as Marwar. As Jodha hailed from the nearby town of Mandore, that town initially served as the capital of this state; however, Jodhpur soon took over that role, even during the lifetime of Jodha. The city was located on the strategic road linking Delhi to Gujarat. This enabled it to profit from a flourishing trade in opium, copper, silk, sandalwood, dates and other tradeable goods. There are many building painted blue in the city and this is because it was originally painted blue to signify that they were occupied by the Brahmin community.
So what’s special in terms of places to see and visit in Jodhpur?
Mehrangarh Fort Imposing Mehrangarh Fort, which rises above the “Blue City”, is one of the largest and most famous forts in India. One of the largest forts in India, Mehrangarh Fort is also called Mehran Fort and was built in 1459 by Rao Jodha. You can spot imprints of cannon balls which have existed for many hundred years now. The most interesting part of the fort are the seven gates that were built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories. As impressive as it is, as a well-preserved heritage structure, there’s so much more to discover inside. The fort has been privately restored and its museum has an outstanding display of royal memorabilia, including about 15,000 items from Maharaja Gaj Singh II’s personal collection. It also has the only professional museum shop in India. The cultural performances that happen daily at various places inside the fort, as part of the special focus on folk art and music, are another highlight.
Jaswant Thada This intricately crafted cenotaph (empty commemorative tomb) made of milky-white marble was built in 1899, in honor of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II. It features white marble lattice screens and whimsical domes, while the inside is adorned with portraits of Rathore rulers going back to the 13th century. It’s a peaceful place to relax and enjoy stunning views of the Fort and city. Many a tired tourist sprawls on the front lawn to recuperate after sightseeing.
Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park The Rao Jodha Desert Rock Park was developed in 2006, with the aim of restoring the natural ecology of a large rocky wasteland area next to the Fort. Neglected for many years, an invasive thorny shrub overran the park. After the bush was eradicated, more than 80 native species of rock-loving plants from the Thar desert were grown there. The Park extends across 72 hectares (around 200 acres) of rehabilitated land and sits in the lee of Mehrangarh Fort. The park is criss-crossed with walking trails that take you up to the city walls, around Devkund lake, spotting local and migratory birds, butterflies and reptiles. It’s interesting to explore at different times of the year, as its foliage changes with the seasons. Visit in the early morning or late afternoon for the most pleasant temperatures.
Umaid Bhawan Palace Clearly visible to the south of the city and completed only in 1944, this is the last great palace built in India. The Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh II lives here to this day, but half the building has been converted to a 5-star hotel and there is also a small museum on grounds. The construction of the palace started in 1929 for palace for Maharaja Umaid Singh and was designed by the British architect Henry Lanchester and took more than 3000 workers 15 years to complete its 365 rooms, at a cost of around ₹11 million. The building is mortarless, and incorporates 100 wagon loads of Makrana marble and Burmese teak in the interior. Apparently its construction began as a royal job-creation program during a time of severe drought. The museum which includes photos of the elegant art-deco interior plus an eccentric collection of elaborate clocks, is the only part open to casual visitors. A few highly polished classic vintage cars, part of the Maharaja’s collection are also on display in glass enclosures in front of the museum, by the entrance gate.
Clock Tower The century-old clock tower is a city landmark surrounded by the vibrant sounds, sights and smells of Sardar Market. The market is bordered by triple-arched gateways at its northern and southern ends. The narrow, winding lanes of the old city spread out in all directions from here. Westward, you plunge into the old city’s commercial heart, with crowded alleys and bazaars selling vegetables, spices, sweets, silver and handicrafts.
Toorji Ka Jhalra This geometrically handsome step-well (also known as a baori or wav) has been rejuvenated after decades as a rubbish dump. Its clean lines and clear, fish-filled water will leave you mesmerised. It’s a great place to just sit and watch, and the attached cafe adds further incentive for a visit.
With this we bid goodbye to Jodhpur and travel nearly 300 km in a westerly direction towards the border with Pakistan and the Thar Desert to Jaisalmer.
Jaisalmer – The Golden City In the heart of Thar or the Great Indian Desert, the town of Jaisalmer stands on a ridge of yellowish sandstone, and is crowned by the ancient Jaisalmer Fort. The town is known as the Golden City for its beautiful sun-soaked sand dunes, exuberant forts, and rich culture and traditions. Many of the houses and temples of both the fort, and of the town below, are built of finely sculptured sandstone, contributing to its name. Jaisalmer is named after Rawal Jaisal, a Bhati ruler who founded the city in 1156 AD. Jaisalmer means the Hill Fort of Jaisal. Apparently if you take in an aerial view of the town, it looks like an image of a prince sitting on the ridge of sand dunes, crowned by the Jaisalmer fort.
Jaisalmer Fort Called the Golden Fort because of te yellow sandstone used to construct it, Jaisalmer Fort is a living urban centre, with about 3000 people residing within its walls. It is honeycombed with narrow winding lanes, lined with houses and temples – along with a large number of handicraft shops, guesthouses and restaurants. The fort was founded in 1156 by the Rajput ruler Jaisal and reinforced by subsequent rulers, Jaisalmer Fort was the focus of a number of battles between the Bhatis, the Mughals of Delhi and the Rathores of Jodhpur. In recent years, the fabric of the fort has faced increasing conservation problems due to unrestricted water use caused, in the most part, by high tourist numbers. The sunset from the fort is particularly appealing due to the honey golden hue which drapes the fort because of the material used to construct it.
Havelis Jaisalmer is also known for the fairy-tale architecture of its magnificent historic havelis (mansions), located both inside and out of the fort. Many can be found in the narrow lanes about 10 minutes’ walk north of the fort. In this area, the 19th century Patwa Haveli is the city’s biggest and most important one. It’s actually a cluster of five mansions built by a wealthy Jain trader and his sons between 1800 and 1860 who made their fortunes in brocade and jewellery. Kothari’s Patwa Haveli is particularly impressive, with its breath-taking intricate stonework and artwork, and has been converted to a museum. In the same area, the distinctively shaped Salim Singh Haveli and extraordinary Nathmal Haveli are worth visiting as well. Inside Nathmal Haveli, the beautiful gold paintings are a highlight.
Jain Temples Within the fort walls is a maze-like, interconnecting treasure trove of seven beautiful yellow sandstone Jain temples, dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. The intricate carving rivals that of the marble Jain temples in Ranakpur and Mt Abu, and has an extraordinary quality because of the soft, warm stone.
Bada Bagh Bada Bagh, also called Barabagh (literally Big Garden) is a garden complex about 6 km north of Jaisalmer on the way to Ramgarh. Overlooking a mango grove sits a set of royal cenotaphs, or chhatris, of Maharajas of Jaisalmer state, starting with Jait Singh III (d. 1528), built by the son of the Rawal Jait Singh III, Maharawal Lunkaran Singh. Later, with time 104 members of royal family graves and their chattries were built. Maharawal Lunkaran Singh also completed the construction of Jait Bandh, a dam project that was started by his father Rawal Jait Singh III which stands useful till date for conservation of water.
Sam Sand Dunes The silky Sam dunes, 41km west of Jaisalmer along a good sealed road, are one of the most popular excursions from the city. About 2km long the dunes are undeniably among the most picturesque in the region. Some camel safaris camp here, but many more people just roll in for sunset, to be chased across the sands by tenacious camel owners offering short rides. Plenty more people stay overnight in one of the several tent resorts near the dunes. The place acquires something of a carnival atmosphere from late afternoon till the next morning due to the cultural performances, making it somewhere to avoid if you’re after a solitary desert experience. On the way to the Dunes, Kuldhara Abandoned Village is a spooky but interesting place to visit. If you’d prefer a more peaceful desert sojourn, the dunes around Khuri village in Desert National Park an hour southwest of Jaisalmer are more suitable.
Thar Heritage Museum and Desert Culture Center and Museum This private museum has an intriguing assortment of Jaisalmer artefacts, from turbans, musical instruments, fossils and kitchen equipment, to displays on birth, marriage, death and opium customs. It’s brought alive by the guided tour you’ll get from its founder, local historian and folklorist LN Khatri. The Desert Culture Center and Museum, near Gadsisar Lake, is deservedly popular. It’s run by a local historian and teacher, who also runs the Folklore Museum. The museum tells the history of Rajasthan’s princely states and has exhibits on traditional Rajasthani culture. The diverse collection includes regional musical instruments, old currency, traditional jewelry worn by desert women, textiles, hunting items, royal memorabilia, artillery, and armor. It also hosts nightly half-hour puppet shows with English commentary.
Gadisar Lake Gadsisar Lake, also called Gadisar Lake, is a huge artificial reservoir built by Maharawal Gadsi Singh in the 14th century and situated on the southeast edge of the city. It provided the only water supply to the town until 1965. The many small temples and shrines that surround the lake make it an inviting place to relax and spend some time. Migratory waterfowl are an added attraction in winter, along with numerous catfish in the water that love to be fed. Boats are available for hire nearby too.
In addition to the cities mentioned, there are a few other places which are equally entrancing in the state.
Sawai Madhopur – For The Love Of Tigers Founded by Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh in 1763, Sawai Madhopur is home to the Ranthambhore National Park, which is best known for inhabiting tigers. The Ranthambore forests were the hunting grounds for the Kachwaha Rajputs of Jaipur till India received its independence. Aer independence it was established as the Sawai Madhopur Game Sanctuary and it rose to being a tiger reserve in 1973 and got its national park status in 1980. The Ranthambhore Palace and Fort, a 10th century historic palace, located in the heart of the national park, is another tourist attraction here and has been declared a UNESCO heritage as it imbibes a vast cultural history of the several clans, kings, and architectures. The best time to visit is between November and February for it is easy to spot tigers at the national park during that period.
Pushkar – The Home of the Largest Camel Fair in India Known for the world famous five day Camel Fair, where people from nearby villages and towns come to trade camels and livestock, from which takes place in the Hindu month of Kartika (October/November), the town of Pushkar lies about 150 km southwest of Jaipur. For the rest of the year Pushkar remains a prominent Hindu pilgrimage town, humming with puja (prayers), bells, drums and devotional songs. The town wraps itself around a holy lake featuring 52 bathing ghats and 400 milky-blue temples, including one of the world’s few Brahma temples. The main street is one long bazaar, selling anything to tickle a traveller’s fancy, from hippy-chic tie-dye to didgeridoos. The result is a muddle of religious and tourist scenes. Yet, despite the commercialism, the town remains enchantingly mystic and relaxed. It is believed that a dip in the famed Pushkar Lake cleanses all your sins and will cure all skin diseases.
So are you tempted to go visit Rajasthan after reading this post? I definitely am! Hoping to make a trip there sooner than later.
After travelling to the north–easternmost part of India, let’s change directions and go to its western end. We will be visiting the Indian state of Rajasthan in the next few posts.
What comes to mind when you hear the word Rajasthan? To me the word and the state has a very exotic flavour to it. When I hear this word, I conjure up images of palaces, sand, deserts, men and women in colourful attire and camels!
The name Rajasthan can be translated into “Land of Kings” and this state with its erstwhile many princely states is literally just that. The state came into being after India’s independence on 30 March 1949 when the various princely states merged into the Indian Union.
Rajasthan is located on the north-western side of India, where it comprises most of the wide and inhospitable Thar Desert and the state shares a border with the Pakistani provinces of Punjab to the northwest and Sindh to the west, along the Sutlej-Indus river valley. Elsewhere it is bordered by five other Indian states: Punjab to the north; Haryana and Uttar Pradesh to the northeast; Madhya Pradesh to the southeast; and Gujarat to the southwest.
The oldest reference to Rajasthan is found in a stone inscription dated back to 625 A.D. The print mention of the name “Rajasthan” appears in the 1829 publication Annals and Antiquities of Rajast’han or the Central and Western Rajpoot States of India, while the earliest known record of “Rajputana” as a name for the region is in George Thomas’s 1800 memoir Military Memories. Parts of what is now Rajasthan were partly part of the Vedic Civilisation and Indus Valley Civilization.
So with a brief history of the state done and dusted, let’s go visiting! I’ll be splitting up the state into two posts and today’s post will be about the cities of Jaipur and Udaipur, two of Rajasthan’s most famous cities.
Most tourists start their sojourn in the state from its capital city of Jaipur, the largest city in the state. Founded by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh in 1727 after whom the city is named. The city is also referred to as ‘Pink City’ for its trademark pink colour in the buildings across the old city. The best time to visit Jaipur is in the winter months between September and March as the summer months are extremely hot with temperatures reaching to highs of 40 degree celcius. The city forms part of the Golden Triangle in Indian tourism along with New Delhi and Agra. Some of the must-see sights in Jaipur include:
Amber Fort and Palace Located 11 km north of the city centre of Jaipur with a bit of a hike to the fort from the town, this massive fort-palace complex built in hybrid Hindu-Muslim style dates back to Raja Man Singh and was the royal palace of the Kachwahas from 1600 to 1727. The name has nothing to do with the rather pretty pastel yellow colour; instead, the fort is named after the town of Amber, in turn named after the goddess Amba. The main sights within the fort include the Sheesh Mahal, adorned with thousands of mirror tiles on the walls and ceiling. The fort/palace grounds are sprawling and the information panels are somewhat limited, so it might be worth getting an audio guide or a real guide. Make sure you see the Amber Light Show.
The City Palace Famed for being the seat of the Maharaja of Jaipur, the City Mahal, which lies in the heart of the Old City, includes the Mubarak Mahal and the Chandra Mahal which are popular for their excellent architecture. The ruler of Amber, Jay Singh II built the palace complex between 1729 and 1732. The palace is a delightful blend of Mughal and Rajasthani architecture and has a museum inside which is a must-see while exploring the palace.
Jantar Mantar Observatory Adjacent to the City Palace is the Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh II in 1728 that resembles a collection of bizarre giant sculptures. Built for measuring the heavens, the name is derived from the Sanskrit yanta mantar, meaning ‘instrument of calculation’, and in 2010 it was added to India’s list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The observatory has 14 massive astronomical instruments, Jantar Mantar is known for its clever use of geometrical patterns in the form of instruments. Paying for a local guide is highly recommended if you wish to learn how each fascinating instrument works.
Hawa Mahal Jaipur’s most-distinctive landmark, the Hawa Mahal is an extraordinary pink-painted, delicately honeycombed hive that rises a dizzying five storeys. It was constructed in 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the life and processions of the city. The main feature of the building are the 953 small intricately designed jharokas or windows. The top offers stunning views over Jantar Mantar and the City Palace in one direction and over Sireh Deori Bazaar in the other. An interesting feature of the building is that it does not stand on a foundation, with the structure leaning at a position of 87 degrees. The best time to visit the Hawa Mahal is during the early mornings when it is not so crowded. Also note that the museum in the building is closed on Fridays.
Nahargarh Fort Built in 1734 and extended in 1868, this sturdy fort overlooks the city from a sheer ridge to the north. The story goes that the fort was named after Nahar Singh, a dead prince whose restless spirit was disrupting construction. Whatever was built in the day crumbled in the night. The prince agreed to leave on condition that the fort was named for him. The fort is the smallest of the three forts surrounding Jaipur and has glorious views over Man Sagar lake and the vast sprawl of Jaipur. The fort also houses the (relatively) compact Madhavendra Bhawan palace, although its former splendour is fading fast under a new layer of graffiti and pigeon droppings.
Jaigarh Fort A 1 km walk uphill from Amber Fort, the Jaigarh or Victory Fort was never conquered in battle and was considered the strongest of the three forts in the area. It is best known as the site of the world’s largest cannon, the Jaivana, which was test-fired only once — according to legend, despite using only the half the design amount of gunpowder, the cannonball flew 35 km! A better reason to visit the fort, though, are the scenic gardens at the other end and the spectacular views over the Amber Fort and the hills around. The remains of the foundry where the Jaivana (and many more) were cast are also in the fort grounds.
Government Central (Albert Hall) Museum This museum is housed in the spectacularly florid Albert Hall, south of the Old City. The building was designed by Sir Swinton Jacob, and combines elements of English and North Indian architecture, as well as huge friezes celebrating the world’s great cultures. It was known as the pride of the new Jaipur when it opened in 1887. The grand old building hosts an eclectic array of tribal dress, dioramas, sculptures, miniature paintings, carpets, musical instruments and even an Egyptian mummy.
Isarlat Piercing the skyline near the City Palace is this unusual minaret, erected in the 1740s by Jai Singh II’s son and successor Iswari. The entrance is around the back of the row of shops fronting Chandpol Bazaar – take the alley 50m west of the minaret along the bazaar or go via the Atishpol entrance to the City Palace compound, 150m east of the minaret. You can spiral to the top of the 43m minaret for excellent views.
Galtaji Mandir Galtaji is an ancient Hindu pilgrimage site situated 10 km from Jaipur on Jaipur-Agra highway near Sisodia Rani Garden. The main temple here is temple of Galtaji in constructed in pink stone. The temple has a number of pavilions with rounded roofs, exquisitely carved pillars and painted walls. This temple is one of the most visited temples in the city and The temple is surrounded by natural springs and reservoirs that are considered holy .There are also seven tanks or kunds here.
Galwh Bagh (aka The Monkey Temple) and Suriya Mandir (aka The Sun Temple) Both the temples are located on the eastern edge of the city. Both locals and tourists come here to feed the surprisingly tame monkeys, use the temples, and enjoy the views. You can climb to the top of the hill and then down into the valley to see the Monkey Temple, all the while enjoying the company of countless monkeys, goats, and other animals. At the top of the hill, you turn right to reach the Sun Temple for one of the best views of the city, especially at sunset. Monkey food is available for purchase at the bottom of the hill.
Govind Devji Temple For Vaishnavites, particularly followers of Lord Krishna, this is the most important temple in the world after Vrindavan. The statue of Lord Krishna presiding in the temple was brought to Jaipur from Vrindavan during the Mughal era. According to popular legend, Lord Krishna’s idol in the temple looks exactly like Krishna’s form during his incarnation on Earth. The temple is located in the City Palace complex.
Moving on from Jaipur, lets make our way to Udaipur, which is located around 350 km southwest of Jaipur. The city is also called the The City of Lakes or the Venice of the East. A truly exotic city snuggled under the Aravalli hills beside the tranquil lake Picchola. Fantastical palaces, temples, havelis and countless narrow, crooked, timeless streets add to the city’s natural charms. Geographically, Udaipur is located in the southernmost part of Rajasthan, near the Gujarat border, surrounded by the Aravali Range, which separates it from Thar Desert.
Udaipur was founded in 1553 by the Sisodiya Rajput Ruler Maharana Udai Singh II. The Mewar Rajputs founded the city to relocate their capital from Chittor to a more secure location. Today, most of the palaces have been converted into hotels, thus attracting a huge no. of tourist crowd to this city.
Dubbed “the most romantic spot on the continent of India” by British administrator James Tod, Udaipur is a tourist destination and is known for its history, culture, scenic locations and the Rajput-era palaces. It is popularly known as the “City of Lakes” because of its sophisticated lake system. It has seven lakes surrounding the city.
As with other destinations in Rajasthan, the best time to visit is in the cooler months between September to March. So let’s visit the attractions in Udaipur.
City Palace Complex Constructed in the year 1559 by Maharana Udai Singh II and surmounted by balconies, towers and cupolas towering over the lake, the imposing City Palace is Rajasthan’s largest palace, with a facade 244m long and 30.4m high. Situated on the banks of the Pichola lake, the palace complex is a conglomeration of structures (including 11 separate smaller palaces) built and extended by various maharanas in a blend of European, Medieval and Chinese styles, though it still manages to retain a surprising uniformity of design.
Lake Pichola Created in 1362 and extended by Maharana Udai Singh II, the founder of Udaipur, Lake Pichola is named after the village Picholi in which it is situated. Originally created for drinking and irrigation purposes for the village, today the lake sits on the shore of the city palace, limpidly reflecting the blue-grey Aravalli mountains on its mirror-like surface. You can also go boating on the lake, which is a popular haunt for both locals and tourists alike.
Fateh Sagar Lake An artificial lake constructed by Maharana north of Lake Pichola in 1678 and to the northwest of Udaipur. Within the confines of Fateh Sagar Lake, there are three small islands. The largest of these is Nehru Park. The second island houses a public park with an impressive water-jet fountain, and the third is the address for the Udaipur Solar Observatory. Every year the Hariyali Amavasya Mela (Green New Moon Fair) is organized at the lake precincts in the month of August/September.
Bagore ki Haveli A mansion built in the 18th century on the waterfront of Lake Pichola at Gangori Ghat by Amir Chand Badwa, the Prime Minister of Mewar it is now a museum. The Haveli became the residence of Maharana Shakti Singh of Bagore in the year 1878 and hence the name Bagore Ki Haveli. It has over a hundred rooms, with displays of costumes and modern art. The building has a large and exquisite collection of Mewar paintings and glassworks. There is a nightly one-hour long dance performance at 7pm.
Sajjan Garh Perched on top of a distant hill like a fairy-tale castle, this melancholy, neglected late-19th-century palace was constructed by Maharana Sajjan Singh. Originally an astronomical centre, it became a monsoon palace and hunting lodge. Now government owned, it’s in a sadly dilapidated state, but visitors stream up here for the marvellous views, particularly at sunset. It’s 5km west of the old city as the crow flies, about 9km by the winding road.
Jagmandir Island The palace on Jagmandir Island, about 800m south of Jagniwas, was built by Maharana Karan Singh II in 1620, added to by his successor Maharana Jagat Singh, and then changed very little until the last few years when it was partly converted into another (smaller) hotel. When lit up at night it has more romantic sparkle to it than the Lake Palace. As well as the seven hotel rooms, the island has a restaurant, bar and spa, which are open to visitors.
Jagdish Temple Built in the year 1651, Jagdish Temple is Udaipur’s largest temple. An estimated 1.5 million Indian Rupees were spent on this stunning Indo-Aryan architectural marvel. It is dedicated to Lord Vishnu and also houses other shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva, Ganesh, the Sun God, and Goddess Shakti. This temple should be visited not only to oer your devotion but also to witness beautiful wall carvings, elephant sculptures and for the stunning architecture.
Nathdwara Nathdwara is an important hindu pilgrimage site for Lord Krishna devotees and is commonly called Shrinathji, after the presiding deity. This place is around 45 km from the centre of Udaipur. A famous legend is associated with the Shrinathji temple here and therefore throngs of devotees come every day to pay their respects to the lord. Apart, from being a pilgrimage site, Nathdwara is famous for a specific style of paintings dedicated to Shrinathji as well as mouth-watering cuisines. The cultural beauty of town has led to it being called ‘The Apollo of Mewar’
Mount Abu Get some respite from the scorching summers in Mount Abu, the only hill station in Rajasthan which is 163 km from Udaipur. Mount Abu is also the place to Five Unique Temples of Dilwara, which are famous worldwide for their architectural beauty. It’s picturesque beauty is also something to look forward to if visitors are looking for a laid back vacation with some stunning viewpoints.
I have been wanting to make this recipe for a while now and was searching for a good recipe to play with when I came across this recipe from Sanjeev Kapoor’s website. I mostly adhered to his recipe, but to make it healthier, omited khoya or dried evaporated milk solids and fresh cream, but instead used a low fat home made yoghurt to replace the cream.
Veg Jaipuri
Ingredients:
2 cup chopped mixed vegetables (I used cauliflowers, potatoes, frozen peas, french beans and green bell peppers, but you can use others also to give it more colour)
1 cup frozen paneer
3 tbsp ghee
1 tbsp coriander seeds
6-8 cashew nuts
4 green chillies
a few strands saffron
3 medium sized onions, chopped finely
5-6 pods garlic
1 inch piece of ginger
2-3 large tomatoes, chopped finely
1/2 cup beaten plain yoghurt
1/2 tsp garam masala powder
1 tbsp raisins
Salt to taste
2 tbsp finely chopped coriander leaves
Method:
Chop the vegetables into bit sized pieces. Soak the paneer in hot water for 20-30 minutes, then chop them into bit sized pieces and keep aside.
Heat a pan and when warm, add one tbsp ghee and sauté the coriander seeds, cashewnuts and green chilliesfor two minutes. Grind all of this with saffron into a smooth paste.
In another smaller blender, blend together the ginger and garlic into a smooth paste and keep aside.
Heat the remaining ghee in a pan. Sauté the onions till they turn translucent. Add the the ginger-garlic paste and stir for a few minutes till they turn light golden in colour. Add tomatoes and garam masala powder and cook till the tomatoes are pulpy.
Add the chopped vegetables, salt, the ground paste, raisins and one cup of water and simmer for five to seven minutes.
When almost done, add the beaten yoghurt and the paneer and let it come to a slow simmer. Simmer for 2 minutes and switch off the gas.
Garnish with coriander leaves and serve hot with any Indian bread or rice.
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Memories and Such 
