Travel Bucket List: India – West Bengal Part 4

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Kurseong
Located at an altitude of 1,482.55 metres, Kurseong is about halfway between Darjeeling and Siliguiri. The origin of the name Kurseong is unclear, but stories suggest it comes from the Lepcha language word for small orchid, kurson-rip because of the little white orchids dotting the valleys, or perhaps the term for a stick made out of a local cane. The original inhabitants were the Lepcha people, who named their home Kurseong, because every spring it was alive and bright with the Kurson-Rip orchids. In the past, Kurseong was a part of the Kingdom of Sikkim, and in 1780 the Nepalese conquered and annexed Kurseong and its surrounding areas. After the Gurkha War of 1817 which the Nepalese lost, Jurseong was restored to Sikkim by the Treaty of Titalia.

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Kurseong is famous for its waterfalls, temples and Buddhist gompas apart from the excellent views. Just like the tea gardens of Darjeeling, the sprawling tea plants in their estates add a certain charm to Kurseong. The two big tea estates are Makaibari or Ambotia and the estates offer guided tours where visitors can meet the workers, get to know the history, art and the science behind tea processing. Patrons can also take part in tea-tasting sessions. A full conducted tour generally costs INR 500. Once a temporary residence of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, the Netaji Subash Chandra Bose Museum is located in Netaji’s older brother’s residence and has pictures, documents and articles related to Netaji during his house imprisonment by the British. Today, the museum also acts as an institute for Himalayan Language & Culture Studies and offers excellent views of the valley and is open between 9:30 am and 4:30 pm and has no entry fee. Maintained by the forest department of the state, the Forest Museum stores exhibits of animals skins, bones, hides and photographs of fauna which once thrived in the Dow Hill region. Located close to Deer Park, one can also find on display wooden artefacts. Those intrigued by nature will find themselves at home here. Visitors can also enjoy a stroll through the small park of the museum. The museum does not maintain regular visiting hours and does not have any entry fees. There are a total of three Darjeeling Himalayan Railway Museums, the other two being museums in Darjeeling and Sukna which house rare pictures, sketches, miniature structures of trains and also have regular toy train rides to nearby places which are very scenic. Located inside the Ambotia Tea Estate, the Ambotia Shiv Mandir is one of the holiest places of worship in Kurseong. There is a lovely orange orchard is located adjacent to the temple, and visitors can also enjoy excellent views from the temple premises. The Churches in Kurseong are from the British colonial times and are heritage buildings. St. Paul’s church, St. Andrew’s church and St. Mary’s Hill church are some of the must-visit churches in Kurseong.

Mirik
Located on the banks of a huge lake, the hill town of Mirik began life as Mirik Bazar, a commercial centre in the region where people from the surrounding villages and tea gardens came to trade and buy their necessities. The present lake area was a marshland with thick growth of sweet flag, locally called bojho with a playground stood in the present garden area where the British officers played polo.The name Mirik comes from the Lepcha words Mir-Yok meaning a place burnt by fire. The most prominent place in Mirik is the Sumendu Lake, which is beautiful, calm and yet invigorating. The lake also has an 80 foot bridge running over it for people who don’t wish to walk around it. Boating in the lake and a pony ride on the lakeside are are local and visitor favourites. The lake is strategically located so everything in the town is at a walking distance from the lake. The Mirik valley is full of tea bushes and almost throughout the year, you can see workers picking ripe leaves or watering the bushes. Mirik also has numerous beautiful orange plantations spread across the town. Bunkulung, the agricultural hub of Mirik cannot be accessed on foot. One will need to hire a vehicle which takes a few minutes to get to. Located on the edge of the valley, with hills looming in every direction, the place is full of farm lands, fisheries and lush forests. Rameetay Dhara is a beautiful viewpoint with stunning views of the Kanchenjunga as the backdrop and the valley at the bottom. The Devi Stan temple houses idols of Goddess Singla Devi, Lord Shiva, Hanuman and Goddess Kali and is just a few minutes walk from the Sumendu lake and another few minutes away from Bokar Monastery. The Bokar Monastery is the seat of the venerable Kyabje Bokar Rinpoche and belongs to the Kagyud order. It is one of the few in India that have retained its traditional beliefs and environment from the very beginning. Constructed in the Chinese architectural style with sprawling lawns, the monastery is a few minutes walk from the Mirik Lake.

Darjeeling
One of India’s most beautiful hillstations, Darjeeling is nestled amidst acres of lush green tea plantations and spread over a steep mountain ridge in the lesser Himalayas at the height of 2,050 meters above sea level. Known as the Queen of the Himalayas, there are over 86 tea estates here responsible for producing the worldwide famous Darjeeling tea. Darjeeling was the summer capital of India during the British colonial rule and the toy train established in 1881 is a UNESCO World Heritage site with the third highest peak in the world and the highest in India, the Kanchenjunga peak clearly visible from the town. The recorded history of the town starts from the early 19th century when the colonial administration under the British Raj set up a sanatorium and a military depot in the region. Subsequently, extensive tea plantations were established in the region and tea growers developed hybrids of black tea and created new fermentation techniques. The resultant distinctive Darjeeling tea is internationally recognised and ranks among the most popular black teas in the world. The varied culture of the town reflects its diverse demographic milieu comprising Lepcha, Khampa, Gorkha, Kirati, Newar, Sherpa, Bhutia, Bengali and other mainland Indian ethno-linguistic groups. The name Darjeeling comes from Tajenglung, a Yakthung Limbu terminology that means the stones that talk to each other and also from the Tibetan words Dorje, which is the thunderbolt sceptre of the Hindu deity Indra, and ling, which means a place or land.

Lying at an altitude of 2590 meters, Tiger Hill is famous for its sunrise where one can see the peaks of Kanchenjunga. Tiger Hill is also the summit of Ghoom, which is the highest railway station in the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. One must leave Darjeeling by 3:30 am to reach Tiger Hill by 4:15 am to reach in time for sunrise, though this is delayed a bit during winters. The roads get blocked by traffic during the peak season. To get up to the sunrise spot, it requires a short climb on foot from the parking spot. During sunrise and sunset, Kanchenjunga is lit up in a mesmerising display of colours and one can also see Mt Everest and several other mountain peaks belonging to the 8000+ m from this hilltop. Tea is synonymous with Darjeeling and with over 80 tea plantations, a visit to at least one tea garden is a must-visit.

The Happy Valley Tea Estate, the second oldest tea estate is the only garden that allows tourists to view the subtler nuances of producing and processing tea with their tea factory guided tour daily from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm during which one can observe how fresh tea leaves are withered, rolled, fermented, dried, sorted and finally graded to produce the different varieties of tea. A tea-tasting session is also held here, where first-timers are privy to experiencing the subtleties involved in distinguishing the various groups of tea and one can also buy the tea products from the shop in the estate. The factory tour is INR 100 per person and the tour is not conducted between November to February as tea plucking does not happen during the winters.

An exquisite spot terraced with natural fall known as the Chunnu Summer Fall, the Rock Garden is located 10 km from Darjeeling and is also known as the Barbotey Rock Garden. The garden is surrounded by beautiful hill stream along with the slope covered with flower gardens and sitting arrangements at various level. The way to the rock garden is filled with rocky hills and greenery shared by sharp hairpins and extremely steep roads. While at the rock garden, one musn’t miss the Ganga Maya Park which 3 km from the garden. There is a a small lake that offers a boating services to visitors and there are performances of Gorkha folk dancers. The rock garden is open from 10 am to 4 pm and entry fee for Indians have an entry fee of INR 10 while foreigners pay INR 50.

The Nightingale Park is a public park area with gorgeous views of the Kanchenjunga ranges. Previously known as The Shrubbery when it was a private courtyard of Sir Thomas Tartan’s Bungalow, during the British colonial rule. Flanked by a covered archway, the entrance leads one to pebbled walkways around the oval-shaped park. Since the Nightingale Park is at a slightly elevated terrain, one needs to climb a few steps to reach the entry. The park was closed for renovation for about four years and has reopened for the public since 2011. There is a giant statue of Lord Shiva and a musical fountain. The park is open all days of the week from 7 am to 8 pm and has an entry fee of INR 10 per person for adults.

The Observatory Hill is situated above Chowrasta square, just above the Mall Road offers a panoramic view of the mountains and various Hindu and Buddhist temples including the Kanchenjunga Temple, the Mahakal temple and the Tibetian Memorial Shrine. It takes around 15 minutes to walk to Observatory Hill from the Mall Road and in the narrow and steep uphill path, one has to go through a small cave. The walk is filled with colourful flag and small yet noticeable shrines. Built in 1765 by Lama Dorje Rinzing of the Bhutia Basti monastery, the oldest monastery in Darjeeling. The monastery was devastated by the Gorkha invasion in 1815 and was rebuilt in 1861 and again demolished by an earthquake in 1934 and currently owes its existence to the Raja of Sikkim. The ancient Mahakal temple located on the top of the hill, dedicated to Lord Shiva. There is also a small Siddhi Sai Baba temple located on the side of the road and right next to it, another temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. The hill is open from 7 am to 7 pm.

The Darjeeling Ropeway gives passengers superb views as they travel across the valley. Established in 1968, the Darjeeling Ropeway is India’s first cable car system, and serves as a tourist attraction. With 16 cable cars and each car accommodating 6 people, the cable car travels from the North Point in Singamari to the Singla Bazaar, situated by the banks of the Ramman river at an altitude of 7000 feet. The view of the numerous tea estates of Darjeeling, the cascading waterfalls, and the majestic Kanchenjunga makes this experience an essential to every visitor to Darjeeling. At the bottom end of the trip, the cable car halts for a while, where visitors may explore the lovely tea gardens, or relax at the small mountain cafe, before proceeding back to the Singamari base station. The Ropeway is closed on the 19th of every month for maintenance. During the winter and monsoon seasons, the ropeway is open between 10 am to 2 pm while during summer and autumn, it is open from 10 am to 4 pm. There is an entry fee of INR 200 per person for an adult and INR 100 for children between between the ages of 3 and 8.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway also referred to as the DHR, and the Darjeeling Toy Train is a 2 feet narrow gauge train that runs between New Jalpaiguri and Darjeeling. Construction of this 88-kilometre long railway line took place between 1879 and 1881 and was declared as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Later, two more lines were added and came to be known as the Mountain Railways of India. The trip between Darjeeling and Ghum and back is a two-hour round trip that covers a distance of 14 km. Located at the height of 2225.7 metres above the sea level, Ghum is the highest altitude station. The train stops for 10 minutes at the Batasia Loop, where it makes a loop around a beautiful and well-maintained garden from where one can get a bird’s eye view of Darjeeling, and the snow-capped Kanchenjunga peaks. The War Memorial in honour of the Gorkha soldiers is also located here, in the centre of the garden. The train also stops for 30 minutes for a visit to the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway museum which is located on the station premises and boasts of having the oldest toy train engine safely preserved here. A total of 18 rides takes place throughout the day, beginning at 7:40 am. The last ride commences at 4:20 pm. Visitors can choose a steam engine hauled train or one that has a diesel engine. The steam engine train offers an authentic and traditional experience but is costlier than the diesel engine train rides. Both the trains only have first class seats and the disel engine train has a fare of INR 800 for a round trip while the steam engine train has a fare of INR 1,300 for a round trip. All fares include the entry to the DHR museum. Children below five get in free. The Toy Train Jungle Safari operates between Siliguri Junction and Rangtong Station with the three-hour round trip taking one to Rangtong, a small village located at an altitude of 1,404 feet, 16 km away from Siliguri Junction. The ride takes passengers through the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, located around Sukna and Rangtong station. The train leaves Siliguri Junction at 10:30 am and reaches Rangtong at 11:50 am where it halts for 20 minutes and arrives back at Siliguri Junction at 1:35 pm. A round trip in a first class coach costs INR 610 per person.

The Batasia Loop is a lush green toy train pathway that is meant to minimise the elevation of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway. The unique design of this attraction allows the track to wrap around itself through a hilltop tunnel and one of the most enchanting aspects of the Batasia Loop is its natural beauty from where one can enjoy a panoramic view of the Darjeeling. The Eco Garden features organic farming and plantations with many rare and unheard of species like Rhododendrons, silver firs and Gingko Biloba. There is a war memorial located close to Batasia Loop to honour the sacrifice of Gorkha soldiers of Darjeeling, with a cenotaph and a statue of a Gorkha soldier.

Lamahatta is a scenic village 23km from Darjeeling. Lamhatta which means Monl’s Hermitage has an eco park, the Lamahatta Eco Park that was created in 2012. The eco-park has wooden & bamboo gazebos that overlook Lamahatta. The manicured garden, known as the Roadside Garden has flowers of various seasonal plants including white and yellow orchids.

The Yiga Choeling or old Ghoom Monastery is the oldest Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in Darjeeling. Established in 1850 by Lama Sherab Gyatso, this shrine is part of the Yellow Hat sect known as Gelupka who worship the Coming Buddha or the Maitreyi Buddha. Also known as the Sakhya monastery, there is a 15-foot high statue of the Maitreyi Buddha is seen in the central hall, made entirely of clay brought from Tibet. One can also find many rare Buddhist manuscripts. From the monastery, one can see the majestic Kanchenjunga. In front of the Maitreya Buddha statue hang two huge oil lamps which keep burning throughout the year. The walls of the monastery are elaborately painted with depictions and art of Tibetan Buddhism, with different images of bodhisattvas placed in a symmetrical manner. The hilltop above the monastery holds the Ma Kali temple, where devotees come to offer prayer every full moon day and on the fifteenth of every month of the Tibetan calendar. The monastery is open between 9 am and 6 pm daily and has no entry fee, but visitors need to pay INR 10 for a camera and INR 50 for a video camera.

Located on the slopes of Jalapahar hills, the Peace Pagoda or the Japanese Peace Pagoda is designed to establish unity, harmony and goodwill amongst people belonging to different sects of society. Famous for its tranquillity, it offers stunning views of snow-clad peaks including the Kanchenjunga peak. The Peace Pagoda was built by Nichidatsu Fujii, a Buddhist monk from Japan and designed by M. Ohka. The pagoda houses the four avatars of Buddha including Maitreya Buddha and is the tallest free standing structure in Darjeeling at a height of 28.5 meters. Two concrete lions stand on both sides of the staircase and the avatars of Buddha are carved in the walls and polished in gold colour which show the Buddha sitting, sleeping, standing and meditating. Beautiful artwork depicting the life of Buddha and his relics is etched on sandstones that look like wooden framework. There are mythological depictions like the Gift of Mango Grove by Amrapali at Vaishali and the Great departure of Siddhartha. The pagoda is open between 4 am and 7 pm and the prayer timings are between 4:30 to 6 am and then again from 4:30 to 6 pm daily and does not have any entry fees.

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The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute is recognised as one of the best mountaineering institutes in the world and was established in 1954. The primary purpose of the institute was to encourage, enhance and support the interest of the people in the sport of mountaineering and to channel their energy into a productive and self-awarding sport. The magnificent view of the 8586-meter high peak of Kanchenjunga, the third highest peak in the world, from this institute is mesmerising. The institute is open between 9 am to 1 pm and then again between 2 to 5 pm. It’s closed on Tuesdays and during the off-season and has an entry fee of INR 40 and a camera fee of INR 10.

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The Bengal Natural History Museum has has more than 4000 specimens and is located in the heart of Darjeeling at the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park. Originally started as a small building in the Botanical Garden meant to showcase the varieties of butterflies and birds of the hills, today, one can find preserved remains of the bird species, reptiles, insects, fishes, and mammals displayed in a replication of their natural habitats. An attractive display of the various minerals of the region is also present here. There are two sections at the museum, one at the ground level and the other in the basement. There is also a large collection of birds’ nests and eggs and a specialised taxidermy unit to oversee the curing, stuffing and preparation of the birds and animals to be displayed as exhibits. There is also a small library where one might find many interesting books, including the 125 volume series titled The fauna of British India. The museum is closed on Thursdays and national holidays and on other days, it is open between 10 am to 4 pm. One needs to purchase a combined ticket for the Bengal Natural History Museum, Darjeeling Zoo and Himalayan Mountaineering Institute for INR 60.

The Padmaja Naidu Zoological Park houses a wide variety of animals and is also known as the Darjeeling Zoo and includes an off-display breeding centre for snow leopards and red pandas. Set up in 1958 and named after the former governor of West Bengal, Padmaja Naidu, it is the largest high altitude zoo in India. The zoo serves as the central hub for Central Zoo Authority of India’s red panda program. There are Siberian Tigers, Yaks and the Himalayan Black Bears among other animals and also maintains Himalayan flora.

The zoo is open from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm during summers and from 8:30 am to 4 pm during winters. It is closed on Thursdays and has an entry fee of INR 20 for Indians and SAARC country residents and INR 50 for foreigners while a camera incurs a INR 10 charge.

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Located at an altitude of more than 7000 feet above the sea in the Singalila range, the Singalila National Park is the highest national park in the state. Initially, a wildlife sanctuary, the national park encompasses beautiful, 78.60 sq km of virgin rhododendron forests, alpine valley and rare species of animals and orchids. It provides panoramic views of the Himalayas from Nepal to Sikkim and up to Bhutan. Singalila is home to the very rare and exotic Red panda and the Himalayan black bear. The national park is also part of a trekking route and derives its name from the Singalila spur, which runs through the park, descending from Mount Kanchenjunga in the north and running south to the northern fringe of the Gangetic Plains. Visitors need to get a permit from the forest department before entering the core area of the national park. The permit can be acquired either from the Forest Department office at Manebhanjan or at the entrance to the national park about 1km from Tumling. Within the park, it is necessary for visitors to be accompanied by trained and registered guides of the wildlife department. One of the most popular treks is along the Singalila Ridge to Sandakphu and Phalut which provides a grand vista of the Kangchenjunga and the Everest ranges and one can also see the seasonal wildflower blooms and birds. The jeep safari through the Singalila National Park and the surrounding forest is the best way to get around with the route ringed by stretches of greenery, with lofty pine trees and vibrant rhododendrons. The fare for the safari is around INR 3000 which can be through a Darjeeling based tour operator. The national park is closed from 16 June to 15 September and when open is open from 6 am to 7 pm. The entry fee is INR 100 for Indians, INR 200 for foreigners, INR 100 for a camera and INR 500 for a video camera. A small village around 19km from Darjeeling located at a height of 6,956 ft, Lepchajagat lies amidst dense forests of pines, oaks and rhododendrons and is now part of a reserved forest area.

Tinchuley
At a distance of about 32 km from Darjeeling, Tinchuley is an offbeat hamlet situated close to the West Bengal-Sikkim border at an altitude of 5550 ft. The name Tinchuley is derived from the words tin and chula, which translates as three ovens because the trio of hills resembling mud ovens. The rivers Teesta and Ranjeet also intersect quite close to it. While famous for its tea plantations and fresh fruit orchards, Tinchuley is quieter and more obscure place than Darjeeling. In Tinchuley, one can engage in rock climbing, trekking, sightseeing, all against a scenic green mountainscape that seems like something out of a film set. The Sunrise View Point is where one can catch the young and majestic peaks of Eastern Himalayas that comprise the Teesta Valley especially during sunrises and sunsets. Starting from Peshoke Road, a quick, half an hour stroll through gorgeous pine forests and ferns will land one in Gumbadara, another vantage point in Tinchuley. Here one can get to explore ancient Himalayan caves whose surrounding rocks offers some fun rock climbing. One can not only see the Teesta river flowing down in the valley below but also the bordering state of Sikkim. Tinchuley cultivates export-quality tea and there are six tea gardens in the village. Tinchuley’s economy is also dependent on the numerous orange orchards in the village including a factory that produces fresh marmalade, orange juices and pickles. Established centuries ago by a monk purportedly in the order of Nalanda, the Tinchuley Monastery is a centre of spirituality. As per legend associated with the monastery, a lama meditated here for 17 years. Every morning, cymbals in the monastery are loudly rung in order venerate the ancestors and appease their spirits. Downhill from Tinchuley, the village of Chotamangwa began become popular recently.

Dooars
The Dooars or Duars are the alluvial floodplains in eastern-northeastern India that lie south of the outer foothills of the Himalayas and north of the Brahmaputra River basin. This region is about 30 km wide and stretches over about 350 km from the Teesta river in West Bengal to the Dhansiri River in Assam. The region forms the gateway to Bhutan and is part of the Terai-Duar savanna and grasslands ecoregion. Dooars means doors in Assamese, Bengali, Maithili, Bhojpuri, and Magahi languages. There are 18 passages or gateways between the hills in Bhutan and the plains in India and the region is divided by the Sankosh river into eastern and western Dooars with the western Dooars also known as the Bengal Dooars, and the eastern Dooars also known as the Assam Dooars. The Dooars belonged to the Kamata Kingdom under the Koch dynasty; and taking advantage of the weakness of the Koch kingdom in subsequent times, Bhutan took possession of the Dooars. This region was controlled by the kingdom of Bhutan when the British annexed it in 1865 after the Bhutan War and the area was divided into two parts with the eastern part merged with Goalpara district in Assam and the western part turned into a new district named Western Dooars which was changed to Jalpaiguri district in 1869. After independence, the Dooars acceded into India and merged into India in 1949.The Dooars comprises of several towns and districts and is blessed with the mighty range of Eastern Himalayas as a backdrop, a band of thick forests, rich in species of flora and fauna, tea gardens, and water bodies.

Mahanada Wildlife Sanctuary located at the foothills of Himalayas in the Terai region, is spread across the lower catchment area of the Mahanada river. With a thick forest cover, it is home to rare species of animals like the one horn rhino, bison, elephants, tigers, leopards, sambar and cheetals. The Chapramari Wildlife Sanctuary at Lataguri is located about 20 km from the Gorumara National Park. With the Kanchanjungha and other Himalayan peaks as its backdrop, visitors can see a wide diversity of animals like elephants, gaur, leopards in their natural habitat here. This park is closed during the monsoon season between June and September, but during the other months, overnight accommodations are available in the Rest House. 81 km from Siliguiri, in the middle of a forest are two forest bunglows called Sumsing and Suntalekhola. With the hills in the backdrop and the constant splashing noises of the numerous streams as they flow, visitors can step out of the bungalow and listen to early morning chirping of birds and whispers of the forest for a relaxing holiday from the world. Latpanchore is a small village at the top of a hill top on the Mahanada Wildlife Sanctuary, surrounded by forest and rich in the Cinchona plantation. There is a British bungalow in the middle of this, which now serves as a forest bungalow. Trekkers trek from here up to Namthing Pokhri with the sunrise from the Aahal Pick an absolute delight to watch.

Kalimpong
Previously a gateway in the trade between Tibet and India before China’s annexation of Tibet and the Sino-Indian War, Kalimpong is known for its educational institutions, many of which were established during the British colonial era. Kalimpong sits on a ridge on the Shivalik range overlooking the Teesta river and is renowned for its panoramic valley views, Buddhists monasteries and churches and Tibetan handicrafts. Dotted with ancient Buddhist monasteries, centuries old churches and exquisite revered temples Kalimpong marks the Bhutanese history till it was wrested by the British.

Morgan House, built in the 1930s is an archetypal example of colonial architecture. There are many legends about this house being haunted and today it is a tourist lodge and is near the New Jalpaiguri Railway Station. Located on the sixteenth-acre estate on top of Durpindara Mountain, it lies at a distance of 3 km from the town of Kalimpong and gives a clear view of the Kangchenjunga range. Kalimpong cantonment area surrounds the mansion and provides a view of the Relli, Kapher, Deolo as well as Labha valleys. Locals believe the house to be hanunted with legend saying this house was built by George Morgan in the 1930s, and he lived in the home until the death of Lady Morgan whose spiriti is still is believed to haunt the house with some people reported to hearing sounds of high heels clicking against the wooden passage of the house. Another British bungalow, Galingka offers spectacular views of the Kanchenjunga peak. Built by the British wool traders in the 18th century, Crockety is a bungalow famous for its architectural design and breathtaking surroundings. Nobel Laureate Rabindra Nath Tagore broadcasted his work Janmadin on his birthday on All India Radio from behind Crockety. Offering the panoramic view of Kalimpong, the snow-clad Himalayan ranges of west Sikkim, the Teesta river and its valleys, Durpin Dara Hill also has a golf course and the Zang Dhok Palri Monastery as well as a famous botanical garden. The Deolo Hills are located at an elevation of around 2000 m and provide panoramic views of Kalimpong. There are also proper view points which are located at the ridge edges for the best views of the sunsets and sunrises. As the land of the largest number of commercial flower nurseries, Kalimpong nurseries specialise in the cultivation of exotic beautiful flowers and export these flowers to different parts of the country. There are numerous nurseries across the town so one can enjoy time there, especially for those with a green thumb. The Pine View Nursery is famous for exotic cactus.

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Consecrated by Dalai Lama in 1976, the Jang Dong Palriffo Brang Gompa is also known as Durpin Monastery and is built in the Buddhist architectural style with beautiful paintings on the walls and the sacred Kunguyar. The Thongsa Gompa is the oldest Bhutanese Monastery established in 1692 and also known as the Bhutanese Monastery. Founded in 1912, the Tharpa Choeling Monastery is situated at Tirpai Hills and is one of the oldest gompas here. The monastery is famous for housing several ancient scriptures and other literary works. Built by local craftsmen the St.Theresa Catholic Church resembles a Bhutanese Gompa and it is built in Tibetan architectural design. While the walls are enriched with paintings and inscriptions from the Bible the doors of the church have carvings which resemble tashi tagye or the 8 auspicious symbols of Himalayan Buddhism.

Linking humans to nature, the Nature Interpretation Centre was established and is managed by the forest department and conducts research on the impact of human activities on the environment. The museum contains information, pictures, photographs and books on ecology and environment. The Sericulture Research Institute is known for its research in sericulture and breeding of silkworms. It works closely with the farmers in developing self-help groups and in the cultivation and sale of different stages of silk production. As an initiative to preserve the Lepcha tribe’s culture, the Lepcha Museum has relics and objects of everyday use like articles of worship, musical instruments, handicrafts items, manuscripts etc. all used by the Lepcha people. This tribe can be seen Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Sikkim, Nepal and Bhutan.

Ramdhura is a small village around 15km from Kalimpong. A scenic getaway, one can see the Kanchenjunga peaks, the Teesta River, pine foresrs and Cinconha plantations here. There is also a large variety of birds and butterflies in this village which is known for its tranquility and is ideal for short trekking or mountaineering trips. The name Ramdhura means Lord Rama’s village and is made up of Lord Rama’s name and Dhura which means a village.

Rishikhola or Reshi Khola is a riverside camp site that lies between Kalimpong and the Sikkim border, about 36 km from Kalimpong. The river Reshi meanders through this picturesque spot where the Himalayan Bulbul and White Capped Water Redstart are often spotted and blooming rhododendrons can be spotted here during the summer months. Rishikhola is also a starting point for many treks.

More mountains and nature reserves coming your way in Part 5

Travel Bucket List: India – West Bengal Part 3

Shantiniketan
Known as Rabindranath Tagore’s home and now a university, Santiniketan is a small town which comprises mainly of the Visva Bharati University. Set up by Rabindranath Tagore’s father and later popularised by Tagore to radically change the concept of education in India, today, this small and beautifully laid out university town is a unique destination. Santiniketan comprises many academic blocks, each dedicated to a separate branch of study. The China Bhavan, as per its name, focuses on studying of Chinese Culture, traditions and language. As it’s name suggests, Kala Bhavan promotes art among the students and focuses on developing the artistic bent among its patrons and very aptly also has the most beautifully done block. The Sangeet Bhavan is the block that fosters music and dance with regular practices held here. The Nippon Bhavan, just like the China Bhavan, aims to foster Japanese- India relations. The centre, though located in the main campus is an autonomous body and not controlled by the university. It also conducts many exchange programs to and from Japan. Chattimtala was the meditation spot of Tagore’s father, Maharshi Debendranath Tagore. A scholar himself, he advocated meditation and introspection as the keys to success and world progress. Every student is very deeply connected to this place as graduates are honored with a branch of Saptaparni tree seen in Chhatimtala.The prayer hall, one of the prettiest places in Santiniketan is located in close vicinity. The site is considered to be very sacred and highly revered. The Uttrayan complex takes you down Tagore’s memory lane and particularly worth seeing is Udayan, where Tagore lived. The beautiful heritage building is very well maintained. Other places to see are Konark, Shyamali, which is a mud hut, Punascha and Udichi. The complex has beautiful gardens and the Rabindra Bhaban Museum in close vicinity. Combined entry fee for the two is Rs 5. Cameras and hand bags not allowed. The complex remains shut on Wednesdays. Located in close vicinity of the university, Amar Kutir showcases a number of locally made handicrafts, including leather printed bags, printed cloth etc. The Rabindra Bhaban Museum is perhaps the most satisfying place for historical inquisitiveness. Built in 1961, it houses some of Tagore’s original manuscripts, letters, documents, paintings, certificates and photographs. It also includes the Nobel Prize Medallion he received and is a must-visit for everyone who comes to Santiniketan. The small rural town of Kankalitala is located about 7 km from Santiniketan and the drive, or the walk, if one prefers, takes one through the beautiful landscape of semi urban India. There is also a small temple that is considered to be highly sacred.

Durgapur
Known as the Steel Capital of West Bengal and the fourth largest urban agglomeration after Kolkata, Asansol and Siliguri, Durgapur is the only city in eastern India to have an operational dry dock. Durgapur was planned by two American architects, Joseph Allen Stein and Benjamin Polk in 1955 on the bank of the Damodar river. The Durgapur Steel Plant comes under the Steel Authority of India (SAIL) with the massive complex an engineer’s delight. A number of large-scale operations and equipment are housed in the premises and is a great learning experience, but the plant is not open to the general public and one needs connections to be able to make a visit to the plant. The Durgapur Barrage which was built to control the overflowing Damodar river in the monsoons and also connects Durgapur with Bankura and is one the prime attractions of the town. This structure keeps the flow of Damodar river, notorious as the Sorrow of Bengal in check with the structure and the adjoining bridge offering a breathtaking view. Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay in his novels, Devi Chaudhurani and Durgesh Nandini mentions the maze of tunnels of Bhabani Pathak’s Tilla. Today a protected monument, it opens in the city center and goes up to the Damodar river. This well preserved place is must visit but one should not venture into uncertain places as they may get lost. The Troinka Park offers a complete leisure time for the entire family with rides, water sports and boating. A charming little hamlet in Durgapur’s suburbs beside the river Ajay, Deul Park is was formerly a lightly wooded forest area rich with the legacies and legends of Ichai Ghosh and is now a popular tourist spot. Deul is as rich in nature as it is in historical significance.

Jhargram
A small town with a rich historical and cultural past, Jhargram is surrounded by dense forests and is the perfect place to spend time mesmerised by its picturesque beauty. Founded by Sarveshwar Singh of the Chauhan clan of Rajputs from Fatehpur Sikri in Rajputana, Jhargram, which means a forest village surrounded by by canals and walls with the locals calling it Ugal. Jhargram is filled with beautiful and thick trees and medicinal plants and a number of birds including rare and migratory birds. The Chilkigarh Kanak Durga temple lies 15 km from Jhargram and is an ancient temple believed to be built in 1348 and later reconstructed. The Sabitri Mandir is at a distance of 3 km from Jhargram and was built around 350 year ago with intricate carvings and beautiful architecture. Kendua which is 10 km from Jhargram is a quaint village and famous for bird watching. The village is replete with lush green trees amongst which birds live as well as many migratory birds. The Medicinal Plant Garden also known as Amlachoti Medicinal Plant Garden by locals is filled with a number of plants used as medicines. Ketki Falls is a beautiful waterfall that is full of water. The Tribal Museum in Jhargram is a must visit place to learn about the tribals with the rich history and culture of the area that can be seen through artefacts. Jhargram Palace used to be the home of the king of Jhargram and is grand palace with 10 rooms and 3 dormitories. The Jhargram Mini Zoo is spread over a vast area with an entire section dedicated to deers calling it Deer Park. The Chilkigarh Raj Palace lies in ruins today but was an affluent palace once upon a time and houses two temples. The Dulung river flows through Jhargram and is sacred to the tribals. The beauty of Jhargram is at its peak during the winter season with the weather is pleasant and windy.

Asansol
Known as the Land of Black Diamond and the City of Brotherhood, Asansol is the second largest and most populated city of West Bengal and the 39th largest urban agglomeration in India. Located on the banks of the Damodar river, Asansol’s economy is primarily dependent on its steel and coal industries, railways, and its trade and commerce. It’s name is derived from a combination of Asan which is a species of tree which generally grows thirty meters tall and is found on the banks of the Damodar river and sol which refers to land. Historically the city was anglicised as Assensole during the British colonial era but the name everted to Asansol after independence. The region is believed to have been a part of the kingdom of Vishnupur where the Malla dynasty ruled for approximately thousand years till the British came into the picture. Dravidian people constituted the initial settlement in this area and the prevalent Jain temples serve as proof of Jain activities that happened over two thousand five hundred years back. It is believed that the last Jain Tirthankara, Mahavira Vardhamana, used to live here. Popular places of attraction include the Rabindra Bhawan, Nazrul Academy, the Kalyaneshwari Temple, Burnpur Riverside and the Jagannath temple. The Kalyaneshwari Temple is situated on the boundary that divides West Bengal and Jharkhand and easily accessible while the Ghagar Buri Chandi Temple is built in beautiful shades of orange and white and is surrounded by water bodies. Nehru Park’s beautiful greenery and picturesque locale alongside the Damodar river makes it a must-visit spot. Satabdi Park is a famous recreational zone frequently visited by locals and has plenty of entertainment facilities and amusement park rides that are a hit.

Murshidabad
Located on the eastern bank of the Hooghly river, Murshidabad was the capital of the Bengal Subah of the Mughal empire in the 18th century and the seat of the hereditary Nawab of Bengal and the richest Mughal province. Silk was a major product of Murshidabad and the city was also a centre of art and culture, including the Murshidabad style of Mughal painting. The city’s decline began with the defeat of the last independent Nawab of Bengal Siraj-ud-Daulah at the Battle of Plassey in 1757. Murshidabad was named after its founder, Nawab Murshid Quli Khan and was part of the Gauda and Vanga Kingdoms in ancient Bengal. During the 17th century, the area was well known for sericulture.

The Wasif Manzil is a palace built by Nawab Wasif Ali Mirza Khan the then Nawab of Murshidabad. Located at the south end of Hazarduari Palace, it is touted as the new palace because it was built much later. It houses numerous marble statues and used to have an artificial hill and landscape on its side which got destroyed along with most of the palace in the earthquakes of 1867 after which the palace was restored, but the hill was never reconstructed. Located a few kilometers off Murshidabad, the Kath Gola palace complex, built originally to entertain European and Muslim guests during trade visits is a must-visit. The name Kala Gola, which means wood warehouse is from the lumberyard that used to be functional in the area before the palace was built. The palace, endless gardens, ponds, a temple devoted to Adinath and a statue of michealangelo are few of the distinctive features of the palace. Spread over an area of 41 acres, the Hazarduari Palace is second to none with a stunning structure on the Kila Nizamat campus. Located on the eastern banks of the river Bhagirathi within an enclosure known as Kila Nizamat, the palace’s name roughly translates to a thousand doors as this palace is embellished with a thousand ornamental gateways. Out of these, 900 doors are real, and the rest are fake doors built to confuse intruders. The construction style is an amalgam of Italian and Greek architectural styles. The perimeter of the palace also houses the Nizamat Imambara, Wasif Manzil, Bacchawali Tope and the Murshidabad Clock Tower. A museum today, the palace has many antiques which range from Siraj-ud-Daula’s prized swords to the vintage cars owned by the Nawabs. The palace is closed on Fridays and on other days is open from 9 am to 5 pm and has an entry fee of INR 5 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners. Built by the descendants of Debi Singh, a tax collector in the early days of East India Company, the Nasirpur Palace has a Ramachandra Temple, one of the biggest temples of the district and The Lakshmi-Narayana Temple, famous for its Jhulanjatra celebrations. The Jahan Kosha Cannon is one km off Katra and was built by Janardan Karmakar of Dhaka, a small craftsman at the time. The 7 ton cannon means the destroyer of the world. In addition to the 18 feet tall cannon, close by is the beautiful Kadam Sharif Mosque which contains the replica of the footprint of the prophet Hazrat Mohammad. On the northern side of the palace lies the Nizamat Imambara, built in 1847 AD by Nawab Nazim Mansoor Ali Khan Feradun Jah, son of Humayun Jah. The stunning mosque was built after the Imambara built by Siraj-ud-Doula that burnt down in a fire. The mosque complex is known to be the biggest in Bengal, and maybe even India. Construction of the Footi Mosque was begun by Nawab Sarfaraz Khan and is located towards the east of the Hazarduari Palace, at Kumrapore. The mosque could not be completed and is often rumored to have been built in one night. Madina is a small mosque between the Palace and the Imambara and made to replicate Hazrat Muhammad’s tomb at Madina. The original mosque’s foundation had soil from Mecca, before it got destroyed in a fire and the one constructed later was built with soil from Karbala. The rooms of the mosque can house 700 Quran readers and has two minarets at the two ends of the mosque measuring 70 feet high. The architectural layout of this mosque is rectangular and has been divided into five inlets, each with a curved entrance and the central one is the most noticeable one as it has a lean steeple. The mosque has five domes, each of them used by a solo Namaz reader.

Mukutmanipur
A popular weekend getaway for Kolkata locals, Mukutmanipur is a serene town located at the confluence of the Kangsabati and Kumari rivers close to the Jharkhand border. With lush green forests, clear blue water and green hills in the backdrop, Mukutmanipur is a Jain pilgrim town, especially Ambikanagar which is just 3 km from the town. The Mukutmanipur Dam is said to be the second largest dam in the country while the man-made barrage here which canalises the river water of the Kumari and Kangsabati rivers for irrigation purposes during summers is also the second largest of its kind. Built in 1956 on the Kangsabati river, the Kangsabati Dam is a huge damn with the view in the evening close to sunset, merged with the entire backdrop absolutely breathtaking. The road by the damn can be driven on and is a smooth ride, a very romantic one at that. Named after the 23rd Jain Tirthankara, Parasnath Hills which falls across the border in Jharkhand is a popular Jain pilgrimage centre. It is believed that 20 out of 24 Teerthankars have attained their deliverance here on the highest peak in this range, Sammet Sikhar. There are as many as 20 temples here, some of which were built more than 2000 years ago. Ambikanagar is famous as a Jain pilgrimage and an ancient city situated by the river. It is also known for its tribal population and culture with handicrafts made from bamboo and grass a local speciality.

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Malda
Malda or English Bazar is the sixth largest city in the state on the banks of the Mahananda river. The name English Bazar is derived from Angrezabad or English town, which came about in the 17th century because of the English factory nearby. Located at the confluence of the rivers Mahanadi and Kalindi, about 350 km from Kolkata, the town is popular not only for its mango orchards but also for its rich history and heritage. The folk culture comprising of Gombhira and Kaviyal is another major attraction. Sultan Yusuf Shah built the Chamkati Masjid Chika Mosque in 1475 and the name has a very unique origin. It is called the Chika Mosque because it sheltered a number of Chikas or bats. In addition to beautiful Arabic carvings, which are still partly visible, the mosque also bears Hindu temple architecture, adding to its uniqueness. The Adina Mosque bears a strong resemblance to the Great Mosque of Damascus as it consists of bricks designed with stones. Built by Sikandar Shah in the 14th century, the second sultan of the Ilyas dynasty, the Adina Mosque was the largest mosque in India at the time. It has been damaged by natural calamities over the years, but still stands. It is often said that the mosque was built by the king to commemorate his victory over the then king of Delhi, Firoz Shah Tughluq. The Baroduari Mosque is the largest mosque in Malda and its name means 12 doors, though it has only eleven. The mosque was started by Allauddin Hussein Shah, but he died before its completion and then was completed by his son, Nasiruddin Nusrat Shah. The mosque was the first of its kind, built in Arabic style architecture. The Kadam Rasool Mosque derives its name from the stone tablet, which bears the footprints of Prophet Muhammad and is kept in the mosque. The mosque was built in 1530 by Sultan Nasiruddin Nusrat Shah. A unique element of the mosque are the four black marble towers on its four corners. Opposite the mosque is Fateh Khan’s tomb, who was a commander under Emperor Aurangzeb, though the tomb is made in the Hindu Chala style. Many tales surround the construction of the Lattan Mosque. However, historians believe it was built by Sultan Shamsuddin Yusuf Shah in 1475. The structure was originally built with intricate work of precious stones and colors. It was popularly called the Painted Mosque because of its colourful exterior and has an arched roof, supported by octagonal pillars. The Temple of Jauhra Kali is a famous and beautiful Hindu temple made on a raised platform and surrounded by trees. Devotees believe to have had miraculous results from praying in the temple. The Luko Churi Gate or the Lakhchhipi Darwaza is built on the Southeast corner of the Kadam Rasool Mosque and is believed to have been built by Shah Shuja in 1655 in the Mughal architectural style. The name is derived from the game of hide & seek that the king used to play with his wives or begums. However, who built this structure is unclear with another school of historians claiming that it was built by Allauddin Hussein Shah in 1522 and this double-storeyed Darwaza operated as the main gateway to the palace. The Eklakhi Mausoleum in Pandua, about 18 km from Malda is a tomb that is truly one of a kind. It has an inscription of Lord Ganesh and a converted son of a Hindu Emperor is believed to have been buried here. Located along the banks of the holy river Ganges, Gour is one of the oldest residential colonies existing in the state. In ruins today, it was the capital of ancient Bengal and was believed to have been discovered by Lord Lakshman and was called Lakshmanavati. When muslims conquered the state, its name was changed to Lakhnauti. Dakhil Darwaza is a surviving ruin of an old castle from the 15th century and is a gateway to a fort. In the south-east corner of the fort, a high wall encloses the ruins of an old palace. The gate is also popularly known as Salaami Darwaza as cannons used to be fired from it. The Firoz Minar is located a km from the Dakhil Darwaza. Built during Sultan Saifuddin Feroze Shah’s rule, this five-storey tower is often touted as Malda’s Qutab Minar. The first three storeys of the tower have twelve adjacent faces each, and the uppermost two storeys are circular in shape. It is built in the Tughlaqi style of architecture and is also known as the Pir-Asha-Minar or the Chiragdani. Situated about 35 km from Malda, Jagjivanpur, which is now an important archeological site was long forgotten until the discovery of a copper-plate inscription of the Pala emperor Mahendrapaladeva and the structural remains of a 9th century Buddhist Vihara, Nandadirghika-Udranga Mahavihara. Excavation work have been carried out and old remains of an entire ruined city have been found. About 20 km off Malda is the Adina Deer Park which is governed by the forest department. The most famous deer found here are the Cheetals or Spotted Deer and Nilgai and is also home to numerous migratory birds

Siliguri
Known as the Gateway of Northeast India, Siliguri is the twin city to Jalpaiguri and is popular for three Ts – tea, timber and tourism. Located on the banks of the Mahananda river at the foothills of the Himalayas, Siliguri is the third largest urban agglomeration in West Bengal, after Kolkata and Asansol. Siliguri has great strategic importance in West Bengal as it is located conveniently, connecting four international borders, China, Nepal, Bangladesh and Bhutan. It also connects the North-East with the Indian mainland. Siliguri has its own international airport which serves mainly as a base for tourists to explore the northeast. Siliguri means a stack of pebbles or stones and until the 19th century this region was called as Shilchaguri when there was dense Dolka forest covering the area. Because of its appeal as an agricultural village, the Kingdom of Sikkim captured Siliguri making it the southernmost part of their kingdom until the Kingdom of Nepal interfered and so Kirati and Nepalis came to settle in the region. The Siliguri Corridor was formed when Bengal was divided into West Bengal and East Pakistan which later became Bangladesh in 1947, with Sikkim later merging with India in 1975.

Founded by the Indian Army, the Madhuban Park is located in the outskirts of Siliguri and serves as an ideal picnic spot. The lush green surroundings of Sukna Forest offers cool climate and serene ambiance. When in Siliguri, one should definitely take a walk down the resplendent tea gardens where one can watch the workers at work, at sowing, reaping or harvesting, depending on the season and also taste the tea at the estate and also purchase some. Situated in Mahakal Pally, Suryasen Park is an urban green park the highlight of which is the bust of the great freedom fighter Surya Sen installed in the heart of the park. The park also holds an exhibition on alternative energy and has the Mahanandi river flowing through it.

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Also known as Sri Sri Radha Madhav Sundar Mandir, this temple was built by ISKCON, which stands for International Society for Krishna Consciousness. With a grand temple, beautiful campus and soothing ambience, this temple is a must visit for everyone. The Sevoke Kali Mandir is an ancient temple on the banks of the Teesta river, close to the Coronation Bridge and is dedicated to Goddess Kali. The Lokenath Baba Mandir is an architectural wonder showcasing artwork in the form of the idols of different deities. The most loved idol here is the split idol of Lokenath Baba and Lord Shiva. Established by Tibetan Buddhist Monks and the followers of Dalai Lama, the Salugara Monastery is famous for the 100 feet stupa founded by the Tibetan Lama, Kalu Rinpoche. This monastery also known as The Great International Tashi Gomang Stupa and is situated just 6 km away from the main town and contains five kinds of Buddhist relics. The Sed-Gyued Monastery is a breathtaking monument which was destroyed by the Chinese army, and then rebuilt. The monastery is home to more than 90 monks of the Gelukpa divison, and is presently used as a research centre. Photographers and experience seekers love to visit this place and meditate there.

Jalpaiguri
Located on the banks of the Teesta river, the second largest river in West Bengal, Jalpaiguri which is on the foothills of the Himalayas, lies 35 km east of its twin city, Siliguri with the merging of the two cities making it the largest metropolis of the region and is bordered by Bhutan to the north and Bangladesh to the south. The name Jalpaiguri comes from the word Jalpai meaning olive and Guri meaning a place. Jalpaiguri’s history goes back to the 1900s due to the rich plantations of olive there. Dotted with tiny rivulets and small hilltops, Jalpaiguri is a tiny tourist town with endless vistas of tea plantations, gushing streams and elaborate rice farms, and is known for its heavy downpour. Primarily a rural district with 80% rural population mostly inhabited in forest villages, the town is popular for its untouched beauty and natural landscapes. Located on the bank of the river Baniya, Mendabari fort, also known as Nalrajagarh is an ancient fort dating to the 5th century. 9 km away from the main town of Jalpaiguri, the Murti river is near the hamlet of Murti in the middle of thick forest where one can often spot wild animals like elephants, rhinos, deer who can often be seen at the riverbank.

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Cooch Behar
At the foothills of the eastern Himalayas, Cooch Behar is the only planned city in the North Bengal region with the remnants of a royal heritage. The name Cooch Behar is derived from the name of the Koch or Rajbongshi tribes.The word Behar is derived from Sanskrit word Vihara which means a dwelling. During the British Raj, Cooch Behar was the seat of the princely state of Koch Bihar, ruled by the Koch Kingdom often described as the Shiva Vansha, tracing their origin from the Koch tribe of North-eastern India. Cooch Behar formed part of the Kamarupa kingdom of Assam from the 4th to the 12th centuries and became became a part of the Kamata Kingdom. The Khens were an indigenous tribe, and they ruled till about 1498, when they fell to Alauddin Hussain Shah, the independent Pathan Sultan of Gour. During this time, the Koch tribe became very powerful and proclaimed itself Kamateshwar or Lord of Kamata and established the Koch dynasty. As the early capital of the Koch Kingdom, Koch Behar’s location was not static and became stable only when shifted to Cooch Behar town. In 1661, Mir Jumla, the subedar of Bengal under the Mughal emperor Aurangazeb, attacked Cooch Behar and conquered the territory, meeting almost no resistance and the town of Cooch Behar was named Alamgirnagar, but was reclaimed by the maharaja within a few days. In 1772–1773, the king of Bhutan attacked and captured Cooch Behar and to get rid of the king of Bhutan, the kingdom of Cooch Behar signed a defense treaty with the British East India Company on 5 April 1773 and after expelling the Bhutanese, Cooch Behar again became a princely kingdom under the protection of the British East India company. After India’s independence, Cooch Behar became part of the state of West Bengal. As a geopolitical curiosity, there were 92 Bangladeshi enclaves, with a total area of 47.7 sq km in Cooch-Behar with a similar 106 Indian enclaves inside Bangladesh, with a total area of 69.5 sq km, part of the high stake card or chess games centuries ago between two regional kings, the Raja of Cooch Behar and the Maharaja of Rangpur. Twenty-one of the Bangladeshi enclaves were within Indian enclaves, and three of the Indian enclaves were within Bangladeshi enclaves. The largest Indian enclave was Balapara Khagrabari which surrounded a Bangladeshi enclave, Upanchowki Bhajni, which itself surrounded an Indian enclave called Dahala Khagrabari, of less than one hectare. But all this has ended in the historic India-Bangladesh land agreement in 2015.

The Rajbari or the Cooch Behar Palace is also known as rthe Victor Jubilee Palace and is built after the Indo-Saracenic architecture style. The Rajbari was constructed under the reign of Maharaja Nripendra Narayan in 1887, and the design was inspired by the Buckingham Palace in London. The main entrance resembles St. Peter’s Church in Rome and the rooms have beautiful paintings on the walls and the ceilings. The complex is spread over an area of 51,000 sq ft and is a brick-built structure. The palace has a projected porch that leads to the Durbar Hall with the first floor having a series of beautiful arcaded verandas with alternately arranged piers in double and single rows. The palace houses over 50 rooms including bedrooms, dressing rooms, billiard room, kitchen, dining hall, dancing hall, library, tosha khana and the ladies gallery. The Durbar Hall has a beautiful metal dome with a cylindrical louvre on the top that also acts as a ventilator. The dome is at 124 feet high from the ground level and is built in the traditional Italian Renaissance architecture. The dome also is beautifully carved in step pattern and rests on four arches supported by huge Corinthian columns adorned with a lantern on the top. Several small yet elegant balconies also surround the dome of the Durbar Hall. The palace and the museum are open daily between 10 am and 5 pm, though the museum is closed on Fridays. The is also a Sound and Light Show that takes place between 6 to 8 pm on Fridays and Saturdays. The palace has an entry fee of INR 10 with children below 14 entering free. Sagardihi is a huge tank situated in the heart of the city, excavated by Maharaja Hitendra Narayan. The tank has heritage hotels, Victor House and a War Memorial around it. Built during 1885-1887 by Maharaja Nripendra Narayan, the Madan Mohan temple is a beautifully designed temple and enshrines deities like Madan Mohan, Tara Ma, Kali Ma and Ma Bhawani. On the occasion of Rash Purnima, the temple celebrates the Rash mela and Rash Yatra. Located 10 km from the centre of the city, the Baneswar Siva temple homes a Shivalinga which is 10ft below the plinth level and also has a statue of Lord Arthanarishwar. On the occasion of Madan Chaturdashi and Dol Purnima, the deities are carried to the Madan Mohan Temple in a celebrated procession. The temple premises also has a huge pond which house a large number of tortoises, very old in age and form.

Bagdogra
Part of the greater Siliguri metropolitan area, Bagdogra is a small hill station at the foothills of the Himalayas, famous for its tea estates and an abundance of greenery. During the monsoons, when the clouds hover around the peaks of the mountains, it’s simply mesmerising. The river Teesta flows through the town, making it an excellent spot for river rafting. Bagdogra gained importance for being the entry base for tourists travelling to Darjeeling, Sikkim, Siliguri and neighbouring Bhutan. The best time to visit Bagdogra is from July to February. July to October constitute the monsoon season with the summer season starting in March and going on till the end of May with summer being the peak tourist season. The Himalaya World Museum which was inaugurated recently aims to preserve the cultural heritage of the Himalayan region.

In part 4, we continue to explore the mountains in West Bengal

Travel Bucket List: India – West Bengal Part 2

Our next destination is Kolkata’s twin city, Howrah.

Located on the western bank of the Hoogly and known as the doorway to Kolkata and also its twin city, Howrah is a part of the greater Kolkata area and an important transportation hub. The word Howrah comes from the Bengali word, Hoar which means a fluvial swampy lake, a depression where water, mud and organic debris accumulate. Howrah’s history dates back to over 500 years historically occupied by the ancient Bengali kingdom of Bhurshut. In 1713, the Bengal Council of the British East India Company, on the accession of the Emperor Farrukhsiyar, grandson of Aurangzeb, to the throne of Delhi, sent a deputation to him with a petition for a settlement of five villages on west bank of Hooghly river along with thirty-three villages on the east bank and by 1728, most of the present-day Howrah district was part of either of the two zamindaris: Burdwan or Muhammand Aminpur. On 11 October 1760, as a result of the Battle of Plassey, the East India Company signed a treaty with Mir Qasim, the Nawab of Bengal, to take over the control of Howrah district.

The Santragachi Jheel, is a lake which attracts different migratory birds over the winter months and is a perfect day-trip destination for birdwatching. The lake is situated right next to the Santragachi railway station and covers an area of 32 acres. Most of the lake is fenced, barring one or two spots, but the lake is not well maintained leading to contamination of the water body causing a steady fall in the number of birds flocking to this area.

The Hooghly river, also known as the Bhagirathi-Hoogly and Kati-Ganga river is a stunning waterbody and an important source of water, seafood and the lifeline of Howrah. 260 km long with the channel flowing through the city and finally merging with the Bay of Bengal. It’s a local picnic hotspot where they spend time taking in the morning sun or a ferry ride across the river. The river also known as Bhagirathi Hooghly which means created by Bhagiratha, the prince of the Sagar dynasty who was destined to bring the sacred Ganges from heaven to earth which is why the the waters of the Hooghly river is considered as holy as the Ganges.

The Acharya Jagadish Chandra Bose Indian Botanic Garden, better known as the Botanical Garden, is a sprawling garden spanning an area of 273 acres located in Shibpur, Howrah, near Kolkata. Established in 1787, it used to be known as the Company Garden at that time and today is under the Botanical Survey of India, under the Ministry of Environment and Forests. Considered to be one of the most stunning landscaped gardens in the country with undulating land topography and astonishing artificial lakes, the garden is home to 12,000 living perennial plants as well as thousands of dried out plants that have been collected from across the globe. The major attraction of the garden, however, is the vast and widespread banyan tree, which is popularly known as the Great Banyan tree reputed for forming the second most extensive canopy in the world. A fun fact is that the tea that now grows in Assam and Darjeeling was first developed in these gardens. The flora is nurtured in 25 divisions, glasshouses, greenhouses and conservatories with rare species of trees that have been specially brought in from Nepal, Malaysia, Java, Brazil, Sumatra and Sicily among other places. The Botanical Gardens also has a serpentine lake where visitors can enjoy boating and the library in the Botanical Garden also boasts of an extensive and impressive collection of books. The gardens are open from 8 am to 5 pm and Indians need to pay INR 10, foreigners INR 100 and to take photos, a camera fee of INR 20 is charged. An annual membership fee for daily walkers is INR 200.

The Great Banyan tree which is about 250 years old is located in the botanical gardens and is popular due to the gigantic size, expanding to about 4.67 acres. The tree continues to grow beyond the 330-metre long road that was built around it circumference and has been mentioned in many travel books since the 19th century. More than an individual tree, it appears like a dense forest with the highest branch rising to 24.5 metres, and the crown of the tree having a circumference of 486 metres. There are 3772 aerial roots that connect to the ground. It is unknown when the tree started growing, but references of it can be found in travel books dating back to the 19th century.

The Rail Museum is considered as the second rail museum to be constructed after the National Rail Museum in Delhi. It has a wonderful collection of preserved old and rare steam engines, electric locomotives, tracks and signals. Located very close to the Howrah railway station, the museum consists of handmade replicas of various trains, locomotives and engines as well as a miniature of the Howrah Railway Station. An open-air establishment, the Hall of fame inside gives insights into the history, the engineering and the evolution of trains from steam engines to diesel to electric. Entry fee is INR 10 per person and children below three enter free. The museum is open from 10:30 am to 5:30 pm and is closed on Mondays.

Gadiara is a quaint little hamlet located south-west of Howrah and is where the three rivers, Hooghly, Roopnarayan and Damodar converge. Fort Mornington which is the ruins of an English fort is a must visit place here and the village is a magnificent spot for nature lovers and photography enthusiasts. One must make sure to take the river cruise during sunset to take in spectacular views.

Barrackpore
Barrackpore was where the the British first set up their cantonment in India. Here, one can find some of the best green parks and temples. The name comes from the English word Barracks and this is due to the first British East India Company cantonment. Another reason given for the name is that it comes from the word Barbakpur penned by Bipradas Piplani in his famous work Manasa Vijaya. In the 19th century two major revolts took place in Barrackpore in the war for independence including the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The Mangal Pandey Park is built in honour of Mangal Pandey the first nationalist to rise against the British who was hanged on 8 April, 1857 in Barrackpore. There is a splendid statue of him situated in the park. The Gandhi Museum is a grand museum with five galleries, a study centre and a huge library filled with some rare books. The museum is open between 11 am and 5pm every day except Wednesday and does not have an entry fee. Built in the 18th century, the Tarakeswar temple houses a lingam in the inner sanctum while the open veranda is used to hold congregations and is built of white marble. Also known as the Garrison Church, the Bartholomew Cathedral was built in 1847 in the gothic style. Believed to be over seven centuries old, the Kali temple was built to honour Goddess Kali and was also where nationalist leaders gathered to hold meetings. The Jawaharkunja Garden is situated near the Gandhi Ghat and is popular as a picnic spot. The Gandhi Ghat was built as a memorial to honour Mahatma Gandhi and comprises of many murals depicting Gandhi’s life, including some of his ashes which were spread here. The Nishan Ghat was built by the British for the Governer General and the East India Company and is close to the river Hooghly. The ghat is surrounded by verdant trees. If possible try to witness either a sunrise or a sunset from here as the scenic beauty during this time is splendid. Built near the homes of the washermen, the Dhobi Ghat is also located on the banks of the Hooghly, though today this ghat is only used to take people to Serampore by boat. The Flag Staff House was constructed by the British in 1863 and used by the secretary as his home and came to be known as Flag Staff because of the flagstaff built near it. After Independence the house was transformed into a weekend retreat. Barrackpore is the oldest cantonment in India and has a lot of warehouses surrounded by rich green trees and creepers.

Chandan Nagar
A former French colony on the western bank of the Hoogly river, Chandan Nagar, also known by its former name Chandernagore and French name Chandernagor would have been where Kolkata is today has history gone in its favour. First ruled by the Nawabs, then the French and finally the British, the town has a a unique Bengali-French culture. The name Chandernagor is possibly derived from the shape of the bank of the river Hooghly which is bent like a half-moon, so originally it was Chander Nagar as from the river bank, it looked like a crescent moon-shaped necklace. Local tradition holds that the city was once the major hub in the trade of sandalwood or Chandan in Bengali which could also account for its name. One more possibility for the name is a temple of the Goddess Chandi. The city was also known as Farasdanga or France dongi as it was a French colony and this appears in Bengali literature. The town, which started as a French colony went into the hands of the British in 1757 after a war between the British and the French and Chandan Nagar’s importance was soon eclipsed by Calcutta situated down river. Chandernagore was restored to the French in 1763, but retaken by the British in 1794 during the Napoleonic Wars. The city was returned to France in 1816, along with a 7.8 sq km enclave of the surrounding territory and was governed as part of French India until 1950 under the political control of the governor-general in Pondicherry. After India’s independence, the French government held a plebiscite in June 1948 which found that 97% of Chandannagar’s residents wished to become part of India and so in May 1950, the French allowed the Indian government to assume de facto control over Chandannagar, officially ceding the city to India on 2 February 1951 and de jure transfer took place on 9 June 1952. The inhabitants were not given the option to retain French nationality, unlike their counterparts in Pondicherry. On 2 October 1954 Chandannagar was integrated into the state of West Bengal. Today Chandan Nagar is seen more or less as an extended suburb of the greater Kolkata region.

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The tree-shaded Chandan Nagar Strand is a promenade along the river about 700 m in length and 7 metres in width, lined with trees and lights with many buildings of historical importance along the way. The most important pathway in the town, it is also the most popular spot to to stroll. Along the Strand one can find the Vivekananda Mandir, a meditation centre which protrudes into the river. The Chandan Nagar Museum was established in 1961 and boasts of a collection of French antiques such as cannons used in Anglo-French war, wooden furniture of the 18th century, among other things which are difficult to find anywhere else in the world. The institute still teaches French through regular classes. The Museum is closed on Thursday and Saturday. The Nandadulal Temple was built in 1740 by Indranarayan Roychoudhury in the Do Chalha style. One of the few temples in the area, the walls are covered with idols and carvings. The temple’s old idol of lord Krishna was thrown away into the pond behind the temple by a general and later the pieces of the idols were fished out and submerged in Varanasi. The Bishalakshmi temple is situated near Brahmin para, in the western part of railway station and is an ancient temple with an obscured history. The deity is worshiped regularly by the local people. A temple of Lord Jaggannath, Sabinara Thakurbari is situated on Rather Sadak or the road of Lord Jaggannath’s chariot. Mahaprabhu Chaitanya is said to have visited this place in his time and currently this temple is maintained by the Chattopadhyay family. The Sacred Heart Church of Chandannagar is situated near the Strand and was designed by French architect Jacques Duchatz. Over 200 years old, the church is a beautiful example of French architecture. The white stone church looks even more stunning at sunset. The French Cemetery contains 150 tombs and is located on Grand Trunk Road opposite Lal Dighi, a large lake. Constructed in 1937, to mark the Fall of Bastille, the Chandan Nagar Gate has the slogan of the French Revolution, Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité (Liberty, Equality Fraternity) etched on it.

Patal-Bari or the Underground House has its lower floor submerged during monsoon when the level of the river rises. Rabindranath Tagore frequently visited the place and appreciated the building and felt it influenced him to a large extent and broadened his intellectual capabilities and mentioned Patal-Bari in many of his works. Built by Harihar Sett and donated to the people of Chandan Nagar, the Nritya Gopal Smriti Mandir still serves as a theatre hall and a library. It was first of its kind in the entire locality and has one of the largest collections of books in French, English and Bengali in the district.

The KMDA Park is a popular park and picnic spot which was opened in 2002. Also known as Wonderland Park, the park is spread across 44 acres and is well-maintained, with manicured and lush green gardens, a variety of shrubs and herbs and a plethora of various flowers adorning the each part of the park. The park has many sections such as a children’s park, a boating complex, a games section, a restaurant and a guest house for those wishing to spend a night. The best time to visit the park is during the Jagdharti Puja when the park is lined with lights. The park is open from 8 am to 7 pm and has an entry fee of INR 10 per person and INR 200 for a group of maximum 40 people in a group. The Mango Gardens are now privately owned and maintained and are a popular picnic spot situated west of the railway station near Mankundu. The gardens have been operational since 2009.

Chinsurah
Chinsurah or Chuchura, as it is called is situated on the bank of the Hooghly river, 35 km north of Kolkata. Chinsurah is also the home of the oldest Armenian church in India and old Hindu Temples. The state highway 6 or the Grand Trunk Road passes through the town. The Portuguese founded the town in 1579, but was part of the kingdom of Bhurshut and flourished as a trading port. In the 17th century the Mughal governor of Bengal expelled the Portuguese who lost the statue of Mary in the river which was found by the local. The Portuguese was awarded the death sentence after being taken to Delhi but was granted amnesty by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan and granted a piece of land on the bank of the river Hooghly, where the statue of Mary was reestablished. There the Portuguese constructed a church to house the statue, which still receives pilgrims today. The church was renovated in the 1980s and has been declared as a Basilica. In 1656 the Dutch erected a factory here and at this point, it was Calcutta which was the principal settlement in Dutch Bengal. In 1759 the Dutch garrison of Chinsura, on its march to Chandernagore, attacked a British force in a battle that lasted less than half an hour and ended with the rout of the Dutch attackers. In 1825, the Dutch ceded many of their possessions in India to the British, in exchange for the British-occupied possessions in Sumatra. India’s national song, Vande Mataram was composed by Bankim Chandra Chattopadhyay in Chinsurah.

Also known as Ghorir More, the Edwardian Clock Tower is a piece of British architectural marvel. Located at the centre of the town, this clock tower was built around 1914, in honour of Edward VII and serves as the town’s prime attraction. Located on the riverfront, the Sandeshwar temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the temple complex also houses numerous small temples. A ritual held here on the last day of the Bengali calendar which involves taking out the brass Shiva Linga and two brass drums belonging to the temple for public display. The second oldest Christian church in Bengal and the oldest Armenian Church in India, the St. John the Baptist church was built by the Armenians around 1699. The annual feast of John the Baptist is celebrated with great enthusiasm between 13 to 14 January. Founded in 1599, Bandel Church, also known as The Basilica of the Holy Rosary is one of the oldest and most prominent churches. Dedicated to Mother Mary, this church has three altars, an organ, numerous tombstones and a shrine to Mother Mary. One will find a mast right in front of the Church, which is said to have been presented by the Captain of a ship that came across a storm in the Bay of Bengal. The Captain remained unharmed, who then credited his rescue to Mother Mary and presented the mast as a token of gratefulness. The Dutch Cemetery of Chinsurah, a site protected by the Archeological Survey of India has numerous graves from as early as 1743. Built in 1861, the Hoogly Imambara serves as a congregation hall as well as a mosque for the Shia muslims. The walls of the mosque are engraved with intricate designs and texts from the Holy Quran and a striking feature of the monument is a giant clock on the main entrance, right between the twin towers. The clock has two dials and three bells with the smaller bells ringing at an interval of 15 minutes while the bigger ones ring at an interval of one hour. Two people wind the clock for half an hour each week. The twin towers are approximately 150 ft. in height and have about 150 steps. Bankim Bhavan at Joger Ghat is where the iconic poet wrote the soul stirring song, Vande Mataram. But the house is in ruins today. The best time to visit Chinsurah is between October to March when the pleasant weather and a plethora of festivals in Bengal make it unforgettable.

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Bardhaman
Bardhaman or Burdwan has a history from about 5000 BC or the Mesolithic or the late Stone Age. The origin of this name dates back to the 6th century and is attributed to Vardhaman Swami or Mahavira, the 24th Jain Tirthankara, who spent some time in Astikagrama, according to the Jain scripture of Kalpasutra. This place was renamed as Vardhamana in his honour. During Jahangir’s rule, it was named Badh-e-dewan or the district capital. It was the headquarters of the Maharajas of Burdwan. The most unique structure in the town is the 108 Shiv Mandir because there are 108 smaller temples lying side by side in a beautiful vertical pattern. The best time to visit the temple complex is during Shivratri when the entire place is lit up with lights and decorations. The Kankeleshwari Kalibari is an intricate structure of Goddess Kali is located in Brishnu Mandir where Goddess Chamunda is depicted through this sculpture. Made from precious stones and black rocks, the structure is so finely detailed that even the veins running through her many hands look real. The sculpture is also believed to be a symbol of the continuity of life as its made from the stones found on Damoder riverbed after the devastating floods of 1923. The Sarbamangala Temple, which is highly revered is believed to fulfil all wishes and is believed that Sarbamangala is actually Goddess Durga in a different form. Another very interesting feature of the temple is that the statue of the goddess and the surrounding temple were built a few decades apart. The goddess was established in 1740 A.D. by the king Kirti Chand while the temple structure was built by king Mahatab Chand. Located on the Grand Trunk road, the Kalyaneshwari Temple is a beautiful temple dedicated to Goddess Kali which has a unique story. Built around many decades back, the temple is believed to have been a haven for dacoits, where they stayed and also offered prayers. The temple has been preserved in its simple original form with minimal renovation and is believed to fulfill wishes for offsprings of childless women. The red brick Christ Church was built back in 1816 and is still very well maintained, set in the midst of a well trimmed courtyard.

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Gopal Bagh which means the garden of roses is the most beautiful place in Bardhaman and is the Botanical and Zoological garden established by King Bijoy Chand Mahatab in 1884. The garden is believed to have nearly 150 different types of trees including mango, casuarina, eucalyptus, jaam and shimul and is full of structures, statues and beautifully landscaped areas. In 1691, the then king of Bhardam constructed a huge artificial lake, Krishnasayar on nearly 33 acres of land and later a park was built around it by the Krishasayar trustee board. Visitors can enjoy rowing in the lake or enjoy the various flowers and art exhibitions as well as the aquarium within the park. The Deer Park has numerous animals including deer, leopards and tigers as well as a guest house for overnight stay. Bardhaman is located on the banks of the Damoder river and visitors can enjoy evenings on the riverside and enjoy the cool breeze or hire a boat and enjoy the gentle waves, especially on a pleasant day. The Rajbati or Mahatabmanjil was built by Mahatab Chand Bahadur, in 1851.The imposing building houses the administrative office of the Bardhaman University. The Maharajdhiraj Uday Chand Women’s College and the settlement office lie on the sides. Rajbati. The majestic Curzon Gate was erected in 1903, by the king of Burdwan Maharaja Bijoy Chand Mahatab to celebrate Lord Curzon’s visit. Though just an archway towering over the road, the majestic structure easily grabs attention, especially at night and the Royal Palace is situated one km from the gate. Numerous tales surround Sher Afghan Khan, the tuyuldar of Bardhaman during Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s rule and who was accused of having conspired with the Afghans against the Emperor. He was eventually killed in this confrontation and his wife, Mehrunissa, famously known as Nur Jahan, who was believed to have been extremely beautiful eventually married the Emperor Jahangir. His tomb is a popular ssite with the tomb of Qutbuddin adjacent to that of Sher Afghan. The Science Centre has numerous displays along with interesting classes and seminars and is open daily between 11:30 am to 7 pm. The Meghna Saha Planetarium, innagurated in 1994, was built by a Japanese optical company with assistance from the Japanese and Indian governments.

Haldia
Often considered as a river port assisting Kolkata, Haldia is an industrial port city. A major river port and industrial belt located approximately 124 kilometres southwest of Kolkata near the mouth of the Hooghly river, Haldia Township is bordered by the Haldi River, an offshoot of the Ganges and is a centre for many petrochemical businesses and is being developed as a major trade port for Kolkata.

The Mahishadal Rajbari or Palace was originally built to house Janardan Upadhyay of Uttar Pradesh, who often came to the region for business. The famous Krishna Temple, Gopaljee Temple, is situated in the courtyard of this palace. Built under the rule of Rani Janki Devi, the temple also has idols of Lord Shiva. A Jagannath Temple and Natmandir are positioned on either side of the entrance. The complex comprises two palaces, an old one and a new one with the new one inhabited by the successors of the royal family. The ground floor rooms have a good collection of paintings and furniture which can be viewed on request. The Muktidham Temple is made of white carved marble and idols of Goddess Kali, RadhaKrishna and Hanuman are worshipped in the temple. The temple has its private courtyard and the famous Shiva Temple is situated next to it. Maynagarh is unique in the sense it has a Hindu temple, a Buddhist temple and a Muslim mosque in close vicinity. The best time to be there is during the evening when the sounds of prayers from all the three holy shrines can be heard all at once. The Ramjew Temple is a 90 feet tall temple that is dedicated to Lord Ram and houses idols of Ram, Sita, Laxman and Hanuman. The temple was established way back by Rani Janki Devi and has the huge Dubey Palace behind it. Another unique place in Haldia is Sataku which is a mini Japan due to having many employees of the Mitsubishi Chemicals plant who are Japanese living here. With many Japanese eating joints, cinema halls and a news station, Japanese culture lovers will enjoy a visit here. The Haldia dock was originally built to take some load off the overflowing Kolkata Port. The growth of the Haldia Dock Complex that started functioning in 1968 increased in momentum with the commissioning of the Haldia Port in 1977, when it started it’s international operations. The dock is the commercial epicenter of Haldia and a trip to Haldia, without seeing the dock, is incomplete. Matagini Hazra was a freedom fighter during India’s independence movement and during the movement, she, along with others marched towards Tamluk prison to protest and faced police firing and Matangi died on the spot with India’s flag still in her hand. The stone statue in her likeness was constructed on that very spot in her memory. The Haldia Marine drive is a beautiful 6 km road stretch from Coast Guard Jetty to the 3rd oil jetty point. The road is lined with palm trees and every now an then a ship can be seen anchored on shore. Perhaps one of the most beautiful sights in Haldia, it’s a beautiful contrast from crowded city roads.

Midnapore
Located on the banks of the Kangsabati river, Midnapore or Medinipur is a small town in interior Bengal where one visits to have a holiday of a different kind. There are conflicting accounts of how the name Medinipur came to be with one account claiming that Medinipur was named after a local deity Medinimata which means Mother of the World, a Shakti incarnation. The Kali Temple is very popular with evening prayer held at the temple especially crowded with devotees even coming from nearby towns. The temple construction is done in old Indian Panchratana style. The Chilkigarh Kanak Durga Mandir & Forest Area premises has a main building and a small tract of forest in the same vicinity. The forest has numerous bushes of rare herbs, some whose medicinal properties aren’t even fully known. There are many butterflies, swans, peacocks etc which run free in the temple and the forest. The Jagannath, Shyamaleswar and the Chandaneswar Temples are all situated in close proximity to one another and made from the same kind of rock with each housing a different idol. The temples are surrounded by trees and each have a shaded area for devotees to sit in peace. The Jora Masjid, which means twin mosques, are two mosques built side by side in white marble in the ancient Islamic architectural styles. Around Eid, the mosque is lit up and very beautiful. Close to Midnapore, Chandrakona’s must visit sites include the Fort of Ramgarh and Lalgarh, built by the Chauhan kings. The Palace of King Chandraketu is also worth visiting as is the ancient Mahadev Temple which has a long history of destruction and was later rebuilt by a Burdwan King. The Khirpai Temple, the Lal Ji Temple and ruins of Sobha Singha’s Fort are also worth paying a visit to. Tamluk city is situated on the bank of the Rupnarayan river east of Midnapore. Surrounded by the Bay of Bengal to the south and the Subarnarekha river to the West, it was historically known as Tamralipti or Tamralipta and has been a witness to the various invasions and migrations from the east, west and northern India. The history of Tamluk says that while Sanjay was describing the names of holy rivers and places to Dhritarashtra, he mentioned Tamralipta and that it was the capital of Venga kingdom and a well-recognised port. The Bargabheema Temple in Tamluk is dedicated to Devi Bargabheema, a form of Goddess Kali. Believed to be nearly 1200 years old, the temple is believed to fulfill all wishes of devotees of the goddess. It is also believed that the sculpture of the Goddess was crafted by Lord Viswakarma himself. This temple is considered as 51 shakti peth of mother Durga and it is believed that Sati’s left ankle fell here.

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In the next part, let’s see more of the state of West Bengal.

Travel Bucket List: India – West Bengal Part 1

From the hills of Himachal Pradesh, the next state we will explore is where the river Ganges meets the sea, West Bengal. One of India’s eastern states, West Bengal lies along the Bay of Bengal, is the fourth-most populous state and fourteenth-largest state by area. Part of the Bengal region of the Indian subcontinent, it borders Bangladesh in the east, and Nepal and Bhutan in the north as well as the Indian states of Odisha, Jharkhand, Bihar, Sikkim and Assam. India’s third-largest metropolis Kolkata is the capital which is also the seventh-largest city by population in India. The state has a varied topography which includes the Darjeeling Himalayan hill region, the Ganges delta, the Rarh region and the coastal Sundarbans.

The area’s early history featured a succession of Indian empires, internal squabbling, and a tussle between Hinduism and Buddhism for dominance. Ancient Bengal was the site of several major Janapadas, while the earliest cities date back to the Vedic period. The region was part of several ancient pan−Indian empires, including the Vangas, Mauryans, and the Guptas. The citadel of Gauḍa served as the capital of the Gauḍa Kingdom, the Pala Empire, and the Sena Empire. Islam was introduced through trade with the Abbasid Caliphate, but following the Ghurid conquests led by Bakhtiyar Khalji and the establishment of the Delhi Sultanate, Islam spread across the entire Bengal region. During the Bengal Sultanate, the territory was a major trading nation in the world and was often referred to by the Europeans as the richest country to trade with. It was absorbed into the Mughal Empire in 1576 and simultaneously, some parts of the region were ruled by several Hindu states, and Baro-Bhuyan landlords and part of it was briefly overrun by the Suri Empire. Following the death of Emperor Aurangzeb in the early 1700s, the proto-industrialised Mughal Bengal became a semi-independent state under the Nawabs of Bengal and showed signs of the first Industrial revolution. The region was later conquered by the British East India Company at the Battle of Plassey in 1757 and became part of the Bengal Presidency.

Bengal was a hotbed of the Indian independence movement and has remained one of India’s great artistic and intellectual centres. Following widespread religious violence, the Bengal Legislative Council and the Bengal Legislative Assembly voted on the Partition of Bengal in 1947 along religious lines into two independent dominions: West Bengal, a Hindu-majority Indian state, and East Bengal, a Muslim-majority province of Pakistan which later became independent Bangladesh.

Post-Indian independence, West Bengal’s economy is based on agricultural production and small and medium-sized enterprises. For many decades the state underwent political violence and economic stagnation. Today, the economy of West Bengal is the sixth-largest state economy and has the 28th-highest ranking among Indian states in the human development index.

The origin of the name Bengal or Bangla and Bongo in Bengali is unknown. One theory suggests the word derives from “Bang”, the name of a Dravidian tribe that settled the region around 1000 BC. The Bengali word Bongo might have been derived from the ancient kingdom of Vanga or Banga. Although some early Sanskrit literature mentions the name Vanga, the region’s early history is obscure.

Kolkata
The capital of West Bengal and also known as Calcutta which was its official name until 2001, Kolkata is located on the eastern bank of the Hooghly river, approximately 80 km west of the border with Bangladesh. The primary business, commercial, and financial hub of eastern India and the main port of communication for North-East India, Kolkata has the third-largest urban economy of India and is the seventh-most populous city and the third-most populous metropolitan area. The Port of Kolkata is India’s oldest operating port and its sole major riverine port and Kolkata is known as the cultural capital of India for the city’s historical and architectural significance. A demographically diverse city, the culture of Kolkata features idiosyncrasies that include distinctively close-knit neighbourhoods or paras and freestyle conversations known as addas. Though home to major cricketing venues and franchises, Kolkata differs from other Indian cities by focusing on association football and other sports.

In the late 17th century, the three villages that predated Kolkata were ruled by the Nawab of Bengal under Mughal suzerainty. After the Nawab granted the East India Company a trading licence in 1690, the area was developed by the Company into an increasingly fortified trading post. Nawab Siraj ud-Daulah occupied Calcutta in 1756, and the East India Company retook it the following year. In 1793 the East India Company assumed full sovereignty of the region and under the company rule and later under the British Raj, Calcutta served as the capital of British-held territories in India until 1911, when its perceived geographical disadvantages, combined with growing nationalism in Bengal, led to a shift of the capital to New Delhi. During the Indian independence movement, Calcutta was at the centre of the movement and following independence in 1947, Kolkata, which was once the centre of Indian commerce, culture, and politics, suffered many decades of political violence and economic stagnation.

The word Kolkata is derived from Kolikata, the Bengali name of one of three villages that predated the arrival of the British, in the area where the city was eventually established; the other two villages being Sutanuti and Govindapur. There are several explanations for the name, one being that Kolikata is thought to be a variation of Kalikkhetro, which means a field of the goddess Kali and it can also be a variation of Kalikshetra, a Sanskrit name that means the area of Goddess Kali. Another theory is that the name derives from Kalighat or the Bengali term kilkila or flat area or the words khal meaning canal, and kaṭa meaning dug. According to another theory, the area specialised in the production of quicklime or koli chun and coir or kata and hence, it was called Kolikata. Although the city’s name has always been pronounced Kolkata or Kolikata in Bengali, the anglicised form Calcutta was the official name until 2001, when it was changed to Kolkata to match Bengali pronunciation.

There’s so much to see in Kolkata, so let’s dive right in.

Located in the heart of the city, the Victoria Memorial is a white marbled opulent structure built-in memory of Queen Victoria to celebrate 25 years of rule over India and is almost a replica of the Victoria Memorial in London. Synonymous with the city, the memorial is surrounded by lush green and well-maintained garden, which spreads over 64 acres and has numerous statues and sculptures in it including a 16-foot tall bronze statue of victory, mounted on ball bearings at the top of the memorial. The complex is breathtaking, especially at night, when it is illuminated. The sound and light shows that take place in the evening are a must-watch. The memorial was the brainchild of Lord Curzon who wanted the monument that would be dedicated to Queen Victoria to be stately, spacious and large, with a beautiful garden. The funds for the construction of the memorial were raised from the people of India with a sum of 5 lakh rupees raised. The foundation was laid down by King George V and the Prince of Wales in 1906, and the memorial finally opened to the general public in 1921. The chief architect of the Victoria Memorial was William Emerson, who lent an Indo-Saracenic style of architecture to the monument, while drawing inspiration from Egyptian, Venetian, Mughal and other Islamic styles at the same time. The 184 feet high building is constructed with Makrana marble of white colour brought from Jodhpur in Rajasthan. The vast gardens spread over a sprawling 64 acres, were designed by the botanist Sir David Prain and Lord Redesdale. The gardens have a bronze statue of Queen Victoria on a bronze throne which welcomes visitors at the entrance, while a walk around the garden reveals other statues like those of Edward VII, Curzon, Hastings and Dalhousie. Allegorical sculptures like motherhood, architecture, learning and justice can also be found here. The gardens are open on all days from 5:30 am to 6:15 pm and the entry fee per person is INR 10 while an annual membership costs INR 1,000 for those above 60 and INR 2,000 for others. The garden ticket does not entitle entry into the museum. The Victoria Memorial Gallery is open between 10 am and 5 pm from Tuesdays to Sundays and the entry fee for Indians is INR 20, while that for foreigners is INR 200. The gallery is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days except Mondays and national holidays. There is a light and sound show known as Son-et-Lumiere from October to June and is closed on Mondays and public holidays as well between July to September. Tickets are priced at INR 10 for the Bengali show and INR 20 for the English show. Between October and February, the Bengali show runs from 6:15 to 7 pm and the English show from 7:15 to 8 pm and between March to June the Bengali show runs from 6:45 to 7:30 pm and the English show runs from 7:45 to 8:30 pm.

Located on the eastern bank of the Hooghly river, Fort William was built in 1696 and is named after King William III and was the first stronghold of the British in the country. Spread over 70.9 acres and embellished with hundreds of arched windows that overlook lush green gardens, the fort has stonework that adorns the surface of the building which took 10 years to complete. In 1756, the Nawab of Bengal, Siraj Ud Daulah, attacked Fort William and temporarily conquered the city. He renamed the region Alinagar and assumed control of the fort. This led the British to build a new fort in the Maidan under Robert Clive and construction of the new fort began in 1758 after the Battle of Plassey in 1757. The new Willliam Fort is octagonal and has an imposing structure made out of brick and mortar. Three of its sides faced the River Ganges while the remaining five had a beautiful maidan full of greenery in front of it. The design follows the pattern of a star and was constructed such that it was impregnable against cannon firing shots. A moat was included in the design as well which protected fire and fighters trying to penetrate the wall. Six gates provide access to the fort. Fort William has served several purposes. Initially, it comprised of wings and an inner bastion where prisoners were kept which is why it was known as the black hole of Calcutta. Today, Fort William belongs to the Indian Army and has the capacity of accommodating up to 10,000 army personnel and also serves as the headquarters of the Eastern Command. Because of this, access is limited. Areas that are accessible are open between 10 am and 5:30 pm.

Kolkata’s iconic landmark, the Howrah Bridge is a massive steel bridge constructed over the Hooghly river and is considered to be among the longest cantilever bridges in the world. Also known as Rabindra Setu, it connects Howrah and Kolkata and carries a daily traffic of over 100,000 vehicles. It is at night that the opulence of the bridge comes alive when the bridge is lit up. The view of the city and the bridge from the ferry ride between Kolkata and Howrah, especially at the night, is beautiful. Spread over 1500 feet over the Hoogly river and 71 feet wide, the bridge has eight lanes and is built without the use of any nuts or bolts and is held together by rivets. The Howrah end of the bridge has the Howrah Junction Railway Station, India’s oldest railway station and so the bridge is also known as the Gateway to Kolkata.

The Marble palace near the Chorbagan in North Kolkata was built in 1835 by Rajendra Mallick and is famed for its art collection of masterpieces by Reuben and paintings by renowned artists like Reynolds, Van Gogh and Rembrandt. It also boasts of a Zoo with rare birds and animals.

The Bengali name for the House of the Thakurs, the Jorasanko Thakur Bari is the ancestral home of the Tagore family located in Jorasanko, in north Kolkata. The 700 paintings that are exhibited in this ancestral home as well as the self-composed invite of Rabindranath Tagore’s wedding enthrals visitors. The museum here also houses three different galleries, manuscripts, books and other antiques. The museum comprises three galleries, the first one showcases the life of Tagore and his works, while the other two are about his family and other stalwarts of Bengal. More than 700 paintings can be found here, along with manuscripts, books and other antique items. This house was where Rabindranath Tagore was born and where he spent most of his life was built in 1784, and now houses the Rabindra Bharati Museum, commonly known as Jorasankho Thakurbari in Bengali. The Rabindra Bharti University is also located nearby. An interesting light and sound show takes place on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. The timings for the shows are from 6 to 6:40 pm in Bengali and 7 to 7:40 pm in English between November and January and 7 to 7:40 pm in Bengali and 8 to 8:40 pm in English between February to June. The Jorasanko Thakur Bari is closed on Mondays and other days is open between 10:30 am and 4:30 pm. Entry fees are INR 10 for adults and INR 5 for students who are Indian and foreigners pay INR 50. The light and sound show costs INR 10 to view and photographs can be taken after paying a fee of INR 50.

The headquarters of the Ramakrishna Math and Mission, Belur Math sprawls over forty acres on the west bank of the Hooghly river. Founded by Swami Vivekananda, the chief disciple of Ramakrishna Paramahansa, the temple is at the heart of the Ramakrishna Movement. The temple is known for its distinctive architecture, which fuses Hindu, Christian and Islamic motifs as a symbol of unity and also houses a museum and several other affiliated educational institutions. The evening aarti takes place at 5:30 pm, after which an evening bell is rung to indicate that visitors are not allowed to loiter on the Math grounds and are also not allowed to visit any temple other than the Sri Ramakrishna temple. The aarti here is different from those at other temples since one is expected just to sit and meditate with no religious offering made. The complex houses temples dedicated to Sri Ramakrishna, Swami Vivekananda and Sri Sarada Devi. It also boasts of a well-maintained museum, which contains the history of the Ramakrishna Math and Mission. A life-size statue of Sri Ramakrishna seated on a hundred petalled lotus over a two-headed drum-shaped pedestal made of marble is found here with the sacred relics of Sri Ramakrishna preserved within the pedestal. The main entrance of the temple is heavily influenced by the Buddhist styles of the Sanchi Stupa and the entry of the Ajanta Caves. The windows and the balconies draw from the Rajput and Mughal styles of architectural designs, while the central dome is derived from European architecture. Also, the ground plan is in the shape of a Christian cross. Mainly built out of chunar or a kind of hard sandstone, the 112.5 feet high temple has images of Lord Ganesha and Hanuman, who represent success and power respectively, carved above the pillars of the entrance doors. The math is open on all days and between April and September, it is open between 6 to 11:30 am and then again between 4 to 7 pm. In the winter months between October to March, the Math is open between 6:30 to 11:30 am and again between 3:30 to 6:00 pm. The Ramakrishna Museum is closed on Mondays and open Tuesdays to Sundays from 8:30 am to 11:30 am and then after lunch between 4 to 6 pm in summer from 01 April to 30 September and the same time in the mornings, but from 3:30 to 5:30 pm during the winter months of October to March.

A stunning temple in Ballygunge, the Birla Mandir is dedicated to Lord Krishna and Goddess Radha. Merging the traditional and modern styles of architecture, the construction of the temple began in 1970 and was completed in 1996. Towering domes covered in intricate stonework and design adorn the main facade of the temple, while the complex itself is pearl white marble. Also, some artefacts in the temple are made up of silver and Belgian glass. As dusk approaches, the temple is a sight to behold adorned with electric diyas and gleaming chandeliers. The exterior of the complex is made of sandstone, while the interior is ornamented from white marble. Designed by the architect Nomi Bose, the structure is 160 feet tall with its inspiration said to have been drawn from the Lingaraj Temple and the Laxmi Narayan temple of Bhubaneshwar. Its walls depict the pictorial presentation of shlokas and scenes from Bhagavad Geeta engraved on the stone along with intricate Rajasthani style designs. The temple is open from 5:30 to 11 am and then from 4:30 to 9 pm on all days.

One of the 51 Shakti Peeths, the 200-year old Kalighat Temple is one of the most visited Kali temples and the spot where the toes of Sati’s right foot fell during Lord Shiva’s Tandava dance. It is said that Kalighat was where Chowranga Giri, a Dasanami monk, worshipped Ma Kali with great austerity and has thus been known as a religious centre for Ma Kali worship for centuries. A 3ft high altar referred to as Shoshti Tala or Monosha Tala is placed in the temple complex. Three stones representing goddesses Shashthi or Shoshti, Shitala and Mangal Chandi are found here along with a large rectangular platform called Natmandir that was erected near the temple by Zamindar Kasinath Roy in 1835. A verandah called Jor Bangla stands between the Natmandir and sanctum sanctorum and there are two sacrificial altars for animal sacrifices, known as Hari-Kath. There is another Radha-Krishna Temple here known as Shyama-Raya temple. A separate kitchen here is used to make a vegetarian offering for Radha-Krishna and a sacred tank known as Kundupurkar or Kalighat Temple Tank in which the Sati-Anga or the right toe of Sati was originally discovered. Bathing in this sacred water is known to bestow the gift of pregnancy. Unlike most temples, there is no daily worship or food offering in the temple where all the priests are women as the temple commemorates Kali and femininity.

Flanked by Hoogly river Hooghly on its eastern bank, the Dakshineswar Kali is a Navratna temple presided by Bhavatarini, a form of Goddess Kali. Built by Rani Rashmoni in 1855, a devotee of Goddess Kali, the Bhavatarini form means she, who liberates her devotees from the ocean of existence. Aside from the main shrine, there are also several rooms built along the complex surrounding the boundary walls. In these rooms, there are shrines dedicated to several Gods. 12 of these are dedicated to Lord Shiva, 1 to Radha Krishna, and 1 to Rani Rashmoni. Besides, there is also a bathing ghat on the river. The temple is also known for its famous association with Sri Ramakrishna. The temple’s history dates back to 1847. Rani Rashmoni was a wealthy widow who planned to pay her respect and express her devotion to the Goddess by visiting Benaras. But before she could leave with her convoy of 24 ships and a large party, she was visited by the Divine Mother or Goddess Kali in her dreams who told her to install her idol on the banks of the Ganges in Kolkata itself and she would manifest herself in the image and accept worship. In accordance, Rani Rashmoni purchased a 20-acre plot from an Englishman and constructed the temple which took eight years and a sum of nine lakh rupees. The temple is built in the traditional Bengal style of architecture with a nine spired style, also known as the Navratna style. The three-storeyed temple faces the south and the nine spires are distributed in the upper two storeys that can be reached with a flight of stairs. Rising to a height of 100 ft., the inner sanctum sanctorum houses the idol of Goddess Kali who stands on the chest of Lord Shiva. Both these idols are placed in the heart of a gigantic lotus flower that is made in silver. There are 12 shrines alongside the boundary of the temple complex that is dedicated to Lord Shiva. These idols are placed on a thousand leaf lotus which is made of silver. These shrines are constructed in the aat – chala style of Bengali architecture with shrines to Lord Vishnu and Radha Kanta to the north east. There are a flight of stairs that lead to the verandah and the garba griha or the sanctam sanctorum. The temple is open between 6 am and 12:30 pm and again between 3 and 9 pm.

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The Pareshnath Jain Temple also known as the Calcutta Jain Temple is a temple complex dedicated to four Jain Tirthankaras. The complex is a beautiful arrangement of these shrines with the temple architecture consisting of intricately carved marbles and glass work and also houses extremely well-maintained gardens and fountains as well as a shop where visitors can purchase souvenirs and gifts. The temple was built in 1867 by Rai Badridas Bahadur Mukeem. After the temple was built, a Jain saint, Kalyansuriji, instructed him to install an idol of Bhagwan Shitalnath. Rai Badridas searched for a perfect image of Bhagwan Shitalnath for a few years and found one in a Jain Temple buried near Agra and then brought the image to Kolkata and installed it in the temple. The opulent complex has four different temples dedicated to Shitalnath Ji, Mahavir Swami Ji, Dadawadi and Kushal Ji and Chandraprabhu Ji with each temple having stunning architecture with mirrors, stained glass and intricate designs. The complex is made in marble with floral designs and has meticulously decorated gateways, walls, pillars and floors with beautiful chandeliers and paintings in the interior. The temple is open from 6 to 10 am and then from 5 to 8 pm.

Mother House or the Missionaries of Charity was established by Mother Teresa in 1950 and provides free services to the ones stricken by poverty. The house has about 4,500 members known as sisters. An area of the house is reserved for followers to pay their respect to Mother Teresa and here one can find Mother Teresa’s tomb and an exhibition that displays her work through photographs, awards and articles along with some of her belongings like her sarees, sandals and her bag. A daily mass is held at Mother House with the sisters and volunteers celebrating mass every day at 6 am in the main chapel. Every week on Fridays at 4:30 pm, a special mass is offered at Mother’s Tomb for the intentions placed at the tomb which is followed by a special blessing with Mother Teresa’s relic. Mother House is open from 8 am to 12 noon and between 3 to 6 pm. It is closed on Thursdays, 22 August, Easter Monday and 26 December.

Located in the heart of Kolkata, the St Paul’s Church is an Anglican cathedral that is a must-visit. Primarily built to accommodate the ever-increasing Christian community in Calcutta, it is the first Episcopalian church in Asia. The building follows Indo-Gothic style and its structure is complete with a cascading white edifice, towering spire and colourful tinted windows. Inside, it has a huge nave, majestic altar and chancel, along with carvings and paintings depicting great moments and events of Christian history. The cathedral complex also houses several memorabilia of past congregants and a library where books as old as the church’s foundation time still exist donated by founding member Bishop Wilson. After Calcutta suffered an earthquake in 1934, the church was revamped for the second time, the first one being after the 1897 earthquake. The church’s tower was rebuilt and modelled on the central Bell Harry Tower of Canterbury Cathedral. The cathedral has a chancel and a sanctuary and above that a 200 feet tall spire rising into the sky. At the far south of the altar, there is a reredos that can be traced back to 1879 which bears carvings that depict the life of St Paul, the Annunciation, the Flight into Egypt and the Adoration of the Magi, all by Sir Arthur Blomfield. The cathedral is open between 9 am to 12 noon and between 3 to 6 pm on Mondays to Saturdays and from 7:30 am to 6 pm on Sundays.

The St John’s Church is one of Kolkata’s oldest churches built when the city was the capital of British India. The church served as Anglican Cathedral till St. Paul’s Cathedral was made the Anglican cathedral in 1847. It is a splendidly well-maintained structure and the unique tall features of St John’s Church is a characteristic part of its neoclassical architecture. The construction of St John’s Church began in 1784 and a public lottery system helped raise money to build the church. The church is designed as per the neoclassical style with the stones used in the structure that belonged to the ruins of Gour and was shipped down the river Hooghly. The church is also known as the Stone Church or Pathure Girja with the basic structure square-shaped. The tallest part of the church is the 174-foot tall spire with a massive clock. A portico lined with columns leads to the entrance of the church. The church is open from 8 am to 5 pm daily with prayers between 8 and 9 am.

The ninth oldest museum in the world and the largest in India, the Indian Museum’s foundation stone was laid down in 1814 and it has been a centre of multidisciplinary activities ever since. Popularly known as Jadughar, it has the finest collection of contemporary paintings, sacred relics of Buddha, Egyptian mummies and ancient sculptures. In addition to these, the Indian Museum boasts of some of the most exquisite collections of ornaments, fossils, skeletons, antiques, armours, and stunning Mughal paintings. Today the museum has 60 galleries which have been divided into six categories, Art, Archaeology, Anthropology, Geology, Zoology and Economic Botany. There is also a library and bookshop present within the museum premises. The museum recently celebrated its bicentennial anniversary in February 2014. The museum’s structure was designed by Walter B Grawille in the Italian style and comprises three floors, each spanning across an area of about 930 sq meters. The museum is open all days except Mondays and from 10 am to 5 pm, March to November and from 10 am to 5:30 pm, December to February. The museum is closed on public holidays and some festivals and ticket prices are INR 20 for Indian adults and INR 150 for foreigners.

One of its kind, Science City is one of the finest and the largest science museums in the world. There is a special section dedicated to the aquatic world where one can learn details about various fishes and insects. The ground floor comprises optical illusions with mirrors which are very interesting to look at. The Time Machine is a favourite and allows one to travel to outer space from where one can travel back in time and enter the age of dinosaurs by being a part of the artificial Jurassic Park. There is also a ropeway which gives a bird’s eye view of the city. Science City is open from 9 am to 9 pm on all days except some public holidays. The entry fee per person is INR 50 and fees for the various exhibits per person are Space theatre INR 60, Evolution Park INR 10, 3D theatre INR 30, Time Machine INR 20, Road Train INR 15, Cable Car INR 30, Mono Cycle INR 15, Caterpillar INR 10 and Gravity Coaster INR 30.

Situated near the Victoria Memorial and St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Birla Planetarium is the largest planetarium in Asia and the second largest in the world. It is one of the three planetariums in India and is also known as Taramandal and was founded in September 1962. Shows such as Zodiac signs and stars on the various constellations in the sky, Journey to the Antarctic, and the New View of the Solar System are held here at regular intervals. One of the interesting aspects of the planetarium is its architecture. The style has been adopted from the Sanchi Stupa and is quite prominent even from a distance with a splendid white dome with a diameter of 23 metres. The English show takes place at 1:30 and 6:30 pm while the Hindi show timings are 12:30, 2:30 and 4:30 pm. The Bengali shows take place at 3:30 and 5:30 pm. Also, extra shows are organised on Sundays and other holidays at 10:30 am in Hindi and 11:30 am in Bengali. There is an entry fee of INR 40 per person.

The Birla Industrial & Technological Museum was the first scientific and industrial museum in India and was up on 2nd May 1959. The fascinating physics gallery has 28 exhibits on mechanics, light, electromagnetic waves and gravitation in the classical physics section of the gallery while the transport gallery comprises more than 50 exhibits and is spread over 500 sq km. The motive power gallery shows how man was forced to use animal power, wind power and water power to increase his physical strength while the life science gallery tries to bring out the science of life via exhibits that are both living and non-living. The children’s gallery has many sections spread over 4000 sq ft where children can play around and experiment with the objects present there. The museum which is closed on the last two days of Navratri is open between 10 am and 5:30 pm daily. Entry fees are INR 30 for the general public, while school students on an excursion have special rates.

Home to cricket, Eden Gardens is a beautiful, well-maintained cricket stadium established in 1864. With an area of over 50 acres, this stadium can seat about 66,349 people and is the second-largest stadium in the world. The pathways of the stadium are shaded by huge mahogany, mango and banyan trees with a three-storeyed Burmese pagoda in red and golden yellow brought here by Lord Dalhousie.

The Eco-Tourism Park is an expansive urban park designed to promote eco-tourism and is the biggest urban park in India occupying an area of over 475 acres. A water body surrounds the park and forms an island in the middle. The beautiful and well-maintained park is the perfect retreat for nature lovers. The park has three major parts, the ecological zones, the gardens and the recreational zones with activities that visitors can choose from to suit their requirement. The Butterfly Garden has different species of butterflies with the speciality of the park being the dome that houses plants that help the butterflies thrive. The Mask Garden displays various types of masks found not just in Bengal but also in various parts of the world. The Tea Garden is a model tea garden while the Formal Garden is based on the concept of vertical gardening surrounded by a flat landscape. The Bamboo Garden has a variety of bamboo plants and the Fruit Garden showcases fruit-bearing trees found mostly in Bengal. The Meadow Garden has a variety of wild flowering plants and overlooks the lakefront promenade and the Rose Garden has a long walkway lined with rose shrubs. The Sculpture Garden is where one can find sculptures from the 19th and 20th centuries. The Rabi Aranya features plants and trees mentioned in the literary works of Rabindranath Tagore. And the Urban Museum or Sangraha displays a beautiful collection of stunning artwork, mostly used to decorate Durga Puja Pandals. The Biswa Bangla Haat or market showcases the traditional handicrafts of Bengal and has a shopping arcade as well as fresh produce which is sold here. A Graffiti Wall runs along with the south parking and both sides of the wall bear stunning artwork created by two renowned artists, Subha Prasanna and Jogen Chowdhury. The Children’s Park has play areas, sculptures, fountains and lush gardens and the park has replicas of the seven wonders of the world situated across the park. The park is open between Tuesdays and Saturdays from 2:30 to 8:30 pm during the summer season which runs from 01 March to 31 October and from 12 noon to 7:30 pm during the winter season from 01 November to 28 February and on Sundays and public holidays from 11 am to 7:30 pm. The park is closed on Mondays. Entry fees at INR 30 per person and children above three have to buy a ticket from the ticket counter which closes at 7:30 pm.

The erstwhile Dhakuria Lake is an artificial tank in South Kolkata, spread over 75 acres and home to a variety of migratory birds from Siberia and Russia. Surrounded by gardens, a children’s park and an auditorium, the lake has been developed over the years to encourage community and welfare and is a popular recreational spot for picnics.

The very picturesque Hooghly Riverfront is situated along the two banks of the river Hooghly: Kolkata in the east and Howrah in the west. Sunrise and sunset views are magnificent from here and should not be missed. After the beautification of the east promenade in 2011, it has become a major tourist attraction.

Alipore Zoo, also known as the Calcutta Zoo or the Zoological Garden of Alipore, is the oldest zoological park established in India. Most known for being the home of the Aldabra giant tortoise Adwaita, a tortoise who had lived for over 250 years before he died in the year 2006, the zoo is spread over 46.5 acres and has been operating since 1876. The zoo becomes especially crowded during the winter seasons with tourists and is home to a variety of exotic animals like the Royal Bengal Tiger, the Indian Elephant, the Great Indian One-horned Rhinoceros, the White Tiger, Grant’s Zebra, Antelopes, Deer and more and various birds like macaws and lorikeet, Swinhoe’s Pheasant, Lady Amherst’s Pheasant and Golden Pheasant, Ostrich, Emu and Hornbills. During the winter season, the zoo also attracts migratory birds like the Sarus Crane. The Zoo is open between 9 am and 5 pm while the aquarium is open between 10:30 am and 5 pm and the ticket counter between 9 am and 4:30 pm. The zoo is closed on Thursdays, though if that happens on a public holiday, the zoo stays open for that day and is closed on the next working day. Between 15 December to 31 January, the zoo is open on all seven days. For visitors above five, on days other than Saturdays, Sundays and government holidays, the entry fee is INR 25, on Saturdays, Sundays and government holidays, it is INR 30. The aquarium charges INR 5 while there are no camera charges and video charges are INR 250 per hour.

An ancient ghat, Ramkrishnapur Ghat is built along the banks of the Ganga. The beautiful and enchanting ghat is surrounded by a series of beautifully constructed ancient temples and staircases running towards the banks where the Ganga Aarti takes place. While Varanasi and Haridwar are famous for their grand Ganga Aartis, Ramkrishnapur Ghat offers its spin on it. It is highly recommended to take a boat ride and watch the aarti from the middle of the river, a surreal experience. The boat ride can be hired from Babughat.

The Prinsep Ghat, located on the banks of River Hooghly, is a majestic structure famous for its Greek and Gothic inlays. With the magnificent Howrah Bridge in the background, watching the sunrise or sunset and taking a long walk in the cool air on the banks of the river is bliss. During British rule, it was used by them as a jetty for loading and unloading passengers and essential items. The ghat is located between Fort William and the Water Gate and is one of the few locations that has been restored to maintain the pre-independence aura. Boating is a favourite activity at the ghat with the river cruises lasting for a few minutes to an hour. Early mornings between 6 to 9 am and evenings from 5 to 7 pm are the best times boating in the river with some boatmen extending the evening boat ride on request for another hour or so at additional charges.

A heritage site today maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India, South Park Street Cemetery is an 18th-century non-church cemetery, one of the oldest in the world. Most of the tombs in the cemetery are aesthetically beautiful and very attractive with a unique charm. The oldest tomb is grave number 363 which belongs to a woman who never wished to have her name revealed. The tomb architecture is mostly a mix of Gothic and Indo-Saracenic with miniature replicas on stone. The cemetery is open from 9 am to 5 pm and has no entry fees.

Babur Haat is the perfect weekend destination if one wishes to take a break. Dominated by natural fishing lakes or bheris, responsible for producing some of the tastiest fish in West Bengal, Babur Haat has long stretches of rice farmlands, vegetable orchards, mango groves, palm groves and rural homes and temples. Malancha village, famous for its fish markets is only 15 km from Babur Haat and one can also opt for country boating, by crossing the river to visit Chaital Village.

In the next part, we will see more of West Bengal’s beauty.