Yogyakarta Day 2: Borobudur

Yogyakrta, pronounced as Jogjakarta and called Jogya by the locals is located in in the centre of Java island of Indonesia. It is renowned as a centre of education, classical Javanese fine art and culture such as batik, ballet, drama, music, poetry, and puppet shows. Yogyakarta was the Indonesian capital during the Indonesian National Revolution from 1945 to 1949. Kotagede, which is in present day Jogya was the capital of the Mataram Sultanate between 1575 and 1640. The city is named after the Indian city of Ayodhya from the Ramayana epic. Yogya means “suitable, fit, proper”, and karta, “prosperous, flourishing” (i.e., “a city that is fit to prosper”).

Borobudur against the lights from the Manohara hotel

Day 2 in Yogya started with a very early morning start. Yus, our driver, was waiting for us at the hotel reception at 3:30 am to take us to Borobudur, a UNESCO world heritage site. Borobudur, or Barabudur, is a 9th-century Mahayana Buddhist Temple consisting of nine stacked platforms, six square and three circular, topped by a central dome. The temple is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues. The central dome is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues, each seated inside a perforated stupa and is the world’s largest Buddhist temple, as well as one of the greatest Buddhist monuments in the world.

A section of the monument

The temple was built in the 9th century during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty and designed in Javanese Buddhist architecture, which blends the Indonesian indigenous cult of ancestor worship and the Buddhist concept of attaining Nirvana. The temple also demonstrates the influences of Gupta art that reflects India’s influence on the region, yet there are enough indigenous scenes and elements incorporated to make Borobudur uniquely Indonesian. The monument is both a shrine to the Lord Buddha and a place for Buddhist pilgrimage. The journey for pilgrims begins at the base of the monument and follows a path around the monument and ascends to the top through three levels symbolic of Buddhist cosmology: Kāmadhātu (the world of desire), Rupadhatu (the world of forms) and Arupadhatu (the world of formlessness). The monument guides pilgrims through an extensive system of stairways and corridors with 1,460 narrative relief panels on the walls and the balustrades. Borobudur has the largest and most complete ensemble of Buddhist reliefs in the world. A couple of weeks before we were there, Buddhists in Indonesia celebrated Vesak Day which is the day Buddha attained Nirvana and the temple, according to our driver Yus was crowded with pilgrims who spent the night at the complex.

Tourists waiting in vain for sunrise

We reached the complex after an hour of driving and reached the Manohara hotel complex from where we needed to buy the tickets for the sunrise. There were around 50 odd people there buying tickets when we arrived. The tickets cost for an adult is IDR 400,000 (approximately USD 30). Children between 1-5 years old get in free and those between 6-11 pay half the adult rate. For sunrise, you can be in the complex between 4:30 am to around 6:30 am. The ticket price also entitles you to a small snack and coffee/tea at the Manohara hotel. For those staying in the hotel, the tickets are cheaper and I guess this is something to plan for.

A terrace of the monument  from the topmost tower

We reached the monument around 5ish and went up the steps. The steps are quite steep, but you get a torch along with your ticket. We waited for the sun to rise, but the day started out cloudy and didn’t see the sunrise because of the clouds. We seem to be singularly ill fated to see sunrises at historical monuments – around 2 years back, the same thing happened at Angkor Wat and we couldn’t see the sun rise due to clouds!

The steep steps waiting to be tackled

We spent a couple of hours walking around the complex taking photos and then decided to walk back to the hotel and the car when we realised it was already daytime and there was going to be no sun that day. We had our hotel pack some breakfast for us and so decided to have that along with the snacks and tea/coffee at the Manohara before heading out to our next destination, the Dieng Plateau.

Another section at the top

The misty and cloudy complex when we were leaving

Yogyakarta: Planning and Day 1

We’re back from Yogyakarta for more than a week now, and all the photos have been uploaded and shared and so I thought I’ll do a post on what we did and where we went. This can be useful to anyone else planning on visiting this place.

Changi Airport

This trip was one of the most hurried and last-minute trip ones I’ve done. We were vacillating between destinations and then when we zoomed into Yogyakarta, we realised that travelling by a full service airline was almost two to three times the cost of travelling by budget airlines and S was not really interested in using a budget airline. Finally I managed to convince him and we chose the budget airline, Air Asia Indonesia to travel. The flight originates from Yogyakarta and leave from there at 7:30 am and this meant that we had to stay an extra night there. The only other airline servicing this destination is SilkAir, the regional arm of Singapore Airlines.

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Eastparc hotel, photo from Agoda.com

Next up was a place to stay in. As usual I looked up TripAdvisor and decided to finalise the Eastparc Hotel, which was one of the top rated hotels in Yogya. The hotel is very close to the airport (around 10 minute drive) and to the Prambanan complex (around 20 minute drive). There is a mall close by (10 minute walking distance) which is standard as malls go, but has shops and a hypermarket which is good for necessities.

We also decided to splurge on a higher class of room, called the Premier room, which would guarantee us connecting rooms. This was around SGD 10 more than the standard room rate and was totally worth it. The room’s minibar was complimentary and the kids and S had a blast using it.

With two UNESCO World Heritage sites in its vicinity as well as others in the city and close to it, we decided to use the services of a driver and/or guide. I used trip advisor and the yogyes.com site and emailed quite a few of the names mentioned there. After going back and forth with some of the agencies, we finally settled on Danar and Ibot from Jogjakartadrivers.com as we felt they gave us the best deal. We spent around IDR 110,000 for the use of a driver for 2 days and Yus, the driver was a wonderful person, warm and affable and went out of his way to accommodate us and our needs. The money didn’t include any entrance fees to the sites, any guide fees and food and drinks. But Ibot, whom I was liaising with, sent me the amounts for all the attractions and also helped book tickets for a performance we were interested in (more about that later). So all in all, fantastic service and I will not hesitate in recommending their service.

Changi Airport

The flight out of Singapore was at 11 am and we were expected to reach Yogyakarta around 12:30 pm. We had arranged for the hotel to send us a vehicle to pick us up as this was a new place. This was not a free service and we paid the equivalent of SGD 10. We also used this on our way back also as we had to leave the hotel at 5:30 am and I was not sure if we could successfully get a taxi at that time, which also happened to be the first day of the fasting month of Ramadan!

The flight was uneventful and when we reached the hotel, only one room was ready. So we had lunch at their in-house restaurant Verandah which was quite good and rested for a while till the other room was ready. Then we decided to venture out to buy some provisions for the next two days which was supposed to be very hectic.

The next day, Yus was supposed to pick us up at 3:30 am to take us to Borobudur to see the sunrise and then on to the Dieng Plateau which was supposed to be a three hour drive from Borobudur. The third day was also action packed with sightseeing within the city envions including the Sultan’s Palace, an erstwhile water palace, the temples of Prambanan and Ratu Boko to see the sunset and capped by a Ramayan ballet performance to end a hectic day. We planned to keep the last full day in Yogyakarta free to shop and just recover from the two hectic days.

I’ll post more about the places we saw next week….

Penang Holiday Part 6: Shopping and Return to Singapore

The story so far… Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4 and Part 5

We woke up a bit later on our last day in Penang knowing that we had planned a day of shopping and there was no point in leaving the hotel before 10 as nothing would be open before then. After another scrumptious breakfast, we went back to the room with the idea that BB & S would go swimming. But BB was more interested in playing his game on the iPad and so we decided to just laze around till it was time to leave.

We left around 10:15 and headed to Queensbay Mall. We decided on this mall as against the others in the city mainly because it was one of the biggest in Penang. Another reason was this was close to the airport and I wanted to map our way back the next day as I would no longer have my unlimited data plan at midnight that day.

The mall, which is managed by Capitaland, a Singapore company was typical of any Singapore mall. The only difference being that due to the Malaysian Ringgit being comparatively lower than the Singapore Dollar, we got a few bargains especially for clothes. We were there for a couple of hours and had lunch at the food court there at an Indian stall. BB & GG along with S had wanted to try the famous Penang Chendol and we were planning a trip to the store later in the evening when we saw they had an outlet in the mall, so that craving was also satisfied.

After the mall, we decided to visit the Tropical Fruit Farm to pick up the coconut oil that S’ friend had wanted. I spent a bit of time trying to check if we could get it elsewhere but drew a complete blank! This was literally in the middle of nowhere and a 45 minute drive through the hilly areas and interiors of Penang to get there, but since we had a car at our disposal and nothing else really to do, decided to go ahead. I was the navigator as always and during the trip there, we felt we were in another country altogether…

The Tropical Fruit Farm is situated about 800 ft above sea level on the hilly terrain of Teluk Bahang and covers 25 acres. They have around 250 different species of trees, which include rare and exotic trees from Central and South America, Central Africa, India, the Middle East, the Caribbean, the Pacific Islands etc. They also have tours and tastings sessions there. We didn’t do all that, just brought the oil and then took away fresh juices to drink later.

Back at the room around 4ish, S and BB decided to have a nap and read while R, GG and I decided to walk to a massage centre we saw across the hotel earlier. We did another foot massage each and though much better than the one we did at Batu Ferringhi. This one was for 45 minutes and cost us RM 53 each. They also had a promotion of a body and foot massage for RM 84 which though I was tempted I didn’t take as we didn’t have the time for it.

Back in the hotel, we decided to explore the Georgetown malls of Komtar and Prangin. These are slightly oldish malls, and this was where we found the same stuff that were being sold in Batu Ferringhi at cheaper prices! We felt cheated, but this was a lesson we learnt and hopefully someone else learns from our mistakes

After having Indian for almost every meal, we decided to do Italian at the Piazzaiola at Lot 33 which is at the basement of the Prangin Mall. This one was opposite to the side which had the Bata store which we had to ask around before we found our way. The food was good, but the most expensive of our trip. It was ok since it was our last night in Penang! Again some great deals in the mall because of the stronger Singapore dollar and we came back lugging shopping bags…

The next day, after a quick breakfast, we left the hotel around 8. Since we had to return the car fully topped up with petrol, we decided to fill it up at a petrol kiosk across the street from our hotel. This was the only time we topped up during our four days there and filled up around RM 40 worth! This made the car super cheap!! Oh, I think I didn’t mention what we paid for the car – we paid around RM 500 for three days.

Just before we left the hotel, since I still had WiFi, I tried to map us to the airport and when I refreshed the map at the petrol station, I was pleasantly surprised to see it worked! So inspite of misgivings on whether we will be able to make it to the airport relying solely on expressway signs, we did have the map with us and reached the airport without incident before 9 am for our 11 am flight.

The Tiger Airways queue was super long and took us almost 30 minutes to check in. We had a bit of a problem at security check. While packing our things the previous evening, I had put everyone’s toiletries into one suitcase and it was pulled up! I was confident that there was nothing that could not be carried on as all our toiletries were less than 100 ml. The officers opened the bag and checked and then let me go! Guess if this had been distributed across four bags which we had done flying in, it would have been beneath the radar!

Anyway, after a bit of looking and seeing the airport, we boarded the plane and got back to Singapore in one piece. I was actually quite impressed with Tiger Airways and will now look at that for regional travel options since they allow you 10 kg of carry on luggage and if all four of us fly together, that makes it a massive 40 kgs….

With the return back to Singapore it was the end of our holidays! Now waiting for our India holidays in December, but before that the PSLE results 😦

Hope you enjoyed this series as much as I did writing it. If you have questions or comments, please do write in!

Penang Holiday Part 5: Batu Ferringhi Night Market

The story so far… Part 1Part 2Part 3 and Part 4

After a short break in our room and some coffee to fortify ourselves at the Planters Lounge, we left for Batu Ferringhi for some shopping. I had read the night market opens around 7 pm, but we were eager and left the hotel slightly after 4 pm which in hindsight was a mistake. The drive from the hotel to the Batu Ferringhi night market stretch was around 30 minutes and we got there well before 5! We parked at the basement of the Eden Parade, a smallish, slightly run-down mall.

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A ‘Ship’ restaurant on the Batu Ferringhi strip

Batu Ferringhi is one of Penang’s most popular places, a nice long stretch of soft, white sandy beach along a winding road named Jalan Batu Feringghi, filled with a host of accommodation and dining options. Its night market is quite legendary, while its waters are popular spots for a range of water sports activities such as parasailing and windsurfing. The road which is called Jalan Batu Feringghi comes alive every night as vendors set up stalls along this stretch offering everything from fake designer bags and inexpensive pirated DVDs, to handmade local souvenirs and local artwork. One of Penang Island’s most noteworthy attractions, it is a not-to-be-missed feature not only for its sheer size (spanning all the way from Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort all the way down to Hard Rock Hotel and beyond), but also its cool, electrifying atmosphere. I would not say the prices are cheap, but if you are a good bargainer, then you may score a good deal. Don’t buy from the first stall you see an item, walk along and see others and if you feel a particular stall gives you the best deal, go back there. I’d say start at half the price quoted and work your way up. The market opens around 7 pm and goes on till late in the night.

Since we were early, we decided to do some foot reflexology at a Thai foot reflexology place opposite the Shangri-La. We paid RM 35 per person for 30 minutes and everyone with the exception of my helper R did it. It was not the best I’ve had, but was not too bad. While doing the massage, S suddenly remembered some Coconut Oil he had to purchase for a colleague. This was apparently only found in one place in Penang and this was some 20 minutes out of Batu Ferringhi. We went back and forth about going there, but since it was almost 6 pm then, decided against it as by the time we drove there, the place would have closed.

Around 6, we started walking the Batu Ferringhi Night Market Stretch. We walked the whole stretch till after the Hard Rock Café Hotel and it was only when we completed the walk and started turning back, we saw some stalls starting to open. We walked our way back, stopping to see stalls which were interesting and buying a few things. Then hungry, we decided to go an Indian & Arabic restaurant called Maroush which had caught S’ eye earlier on. The food was not too bad, but I found it to be more expensive than Georgetown and the portions smaller. This was the second most expensive of all our meals in Penang.

If you are staying in Georgetown, or even if you stay in Batu Ferringhi, before you hit the Night Market, take a stroll along the Komtar and Prangin malls. You may be surprised to see the same items going cheaper than Batu Ferringhi. For example we saw some canvas bags in the night market selling around RM 12 per piece, which was being sold in Prangin for RM 5. Another example was miniature planes (commercial airlines) which BB loves. We brought one from Batu Ferringhi at RM 28 (the stall was a fixed price one and didn’t allow me to bargain) while in Prangin I saw it for RM 20 in one shop and RM 19 in another, both on the same floor! So don’t make the mistake we did and see what available first before buying at Batu Ferringhi. Personally I found Batu Ferringhi very touristy and so more expensive compared to other places in Penang. It’s nice for the atmosphere and some cheap buys (we brought 6 DVDs for RM 20 which was a steal, but not sure of the quality).

We got back around 9 to the hotel and were fairly exhausted. Surprisingly the place where we had parked the car did not charge us for the parking at all! We must have parked there for more than three hours, but we paid zilch! So this was our cheapest car park payment in Penang…The next day was the last full day in Penang and we had planned a day of shopping.

Penang Holiday Part 4: Armenian Street Art, Penang 3D Trick Art Museum and Penang Peranakan Mansion

The story so far… Part 1Part 2 & Part 3

Day two started with a hearty and yummy breakfast at the Sarkies restaurant in the hotel. Once done, we started to plan the day. Since most of the attractions didn’t open till around 10ish, we went back to the room before heading out to the Blue Mansion. This was a 5 minute walk from our hotel and the books said it opened at 9 am. We reached there around 9:30, but found it closed. The guard explained that they only opened for the tours and the first one of the day was scheduled at 11 am which meant the mansion opened at 10:45 for tickets. We were disappointed but walked back to the hotel to get the car and get on with our day’s agenda, planning to come back here. Later in the day, I read up more about the Blue Mansion and found that it was actually a boutique hotel and that only guests had the run to the place. Others could only enter at the designated tour times of 11 am, 2 pm and 3:30 pm. The tour takes 45 minutes to complete and I read that photography was prohibited. After reading this, we ultimately decided to skip this.

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An example of Street Art in Armenian Street

Our next stop was the Street Art at Armenian Street. Penang is famous for its street art which the city commissioned Lithuanian artist Ernest Zacharevic to paint in and around Armenian Street in Georgetown. We saw around 4-5 of these, though I suspect some are not really painted by him. I think some have been painted by random people while some outside shops may have been commissioned by the shop owners to get into the action. Some of the famous ones had queues waiting to take photos with even around 10 am, so I think it will get a lot crowded as the day goes by. We also saw some iron structures across Georgetown which were commissioned by the Georgetown Tourism Board and are a fun and pictorial way to learn about the city’s history. While we were there, we saw only some, though I heard there are 52 of these across the city. Some are super cute and photoworthy! All hotels will have maps to show you where the Street Art is available and there are some tours also which take you around as I saw some tour groups when we were there.

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Iron Structures commissioned by Penang Tourism Board dotted across Georgetown

After the street art, we decided to go next to the Penang 3D Trick Art Museum at Lebuh Penang. This was a short 3 minute drive from Armenian Street, but we spent more than 15 minutes trying to find parking space. The streets of Georgetown do not have much space for parking and everywhere we went, we found no space. We finally found space at the Union Street Carpark and paid around RM 4 for a couple of hours. We paid RM 25 for adults and RM 15 for the children as ticket prices at the 3D Trick Art Museum. This was the only place which offered the children’s rate for BB & GG even though we told them they were 12 years old.

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One of the exhibits at the 3D Museum

The Museum features two dimensional exhibits with themes of ‘All about Penang Life’ and ‘Modern Classic’ as well as art exhibits with three-dimensional sculptures. There are around 30 odd artworks of optical illusion paintings and sculptures. Every artwork has a sticker on the floor to stand to capture the best shot. The staff is young and super friendly and always offer to help you take good pictures with both your camera as well as their own which they try to sell to you at the end. If you refuse, they leave it with a smile, so I liked that. I dislike pushy sales staff! At the end they also have a small souvenir shop with some tee shirts and other typical touristy things for sale. We enjoyed the place a lot, taking loads of pictures. I am guessing some of the pictures are fairly new as they didn’t seem to be the same as what you can see in blogs. It was interesting and my favourite was the room where when two people stand you have one towering over the other! We spent around an hour there before moving on to our next destination which was a short 5 minute walk away.

The entrance courtyard at the Peranakan Mansion

The entrance courtyard at the Peranakan Mansion

The Penang Peranakan Mansion was our last stop that morning. We reached there around 11:30ish and paid RM 20 per person. Children below six get in free. They also offer tours if you have five people or more and since we were five of us plus another lady waiting, we got the standard tour which took one hour and then we were free to wander around and take photographs. The ticket price includes the Straits Chinese Jewelry Museum which is located behind the mansion and is in the same compound.

The meeting room at the Peranakan Mansion

The meeting room at the Peranakan Mansion

The Peranakans, also known as Babas (men) and Nyonyas (women), are unique to Southeast Asia and are descendants of Chinese immigrants who settled down in what was called the Straits Settlements (Singapore and Peninsular Malaysia, especially Penang and Malacca) between the 15th and 17th centuries. They married local Malay women and their culture and lifestyle is a mixture of Chinese and Malay customs and habits. While Peranakan mostly means the mixture of Chinese and Malay, you also have smaller Pernanakan communities like the Indian Peranakan called Chitty, the Arab Pernakan called Jawi and Eurasian Peranakan called Kristang. The community is very fascinating and material for a separate blog post.

The master bedroom at the Peranakan Mansion

The master bedroom at the Peranakan Mansion

The Penang Peranakan Mansion, is a typical home of a rich Baba of a century ago, recreated to offer a glimpse of their opulent lifestyle and of their many customs and traditions. There are over 1,000 pieces of antiques and collectibles of the era on display in a heritage mansion of eclectic design and architecture. Built at the end of the 19th century by one of local history’s famous personalities, the ‘Hai Kee Chan’ or Sea Remembrance Store had once served as the residence and office of Kapitan Cina Chung Keng Kwee. Though not a Baba himself, his Chinese courtyard house was much like a typical large Baba home of eclectic style, incorporating Chinese carved-wood panels and English floor tiles and Scottish ironworks. Kapitan Cina or Chung Keng Kwee was the richest man in Penang at that time, a merchant who arrived from China and who wed a local woman, thus starting his Peranakan dynasty. The house has been lovingly restored and the guides there are quite passionate about the history of the house.

A diaroma of what the family goldsmith's workshop would have looked like

A diaroma of what the family goldsmith’s workshop would have looked like

The Straits Chinese Jewelry Museum is a part of the Peranakan Mansion and there are real exquisite pieces on display which marry Chinese, Malay and Indo-European form, design and motif. The pieces do not belong to the Chung family, but also contain pieces contributed by the various Penang Peranakan families. Pieces displayed include stunning headdresses, earrings, bangles and cuffs and the other ornaments used by a Nyonya woman made out of diamonds, rubies, sapphires, pearls, jade and other precious and semi-precious stones. We also saw beautiful beadwork which is a Peranakan specialty, especially made in the form of shoes and bags. The exhibits will gladden any woman’s heart. I took photos here also though the mirrors at the back of each exhibit plus the glare from the spotlights made photo taking a tad difficult. I did hear photography was not encouraged in this part of the mansion, but neither our guide nor the guards at the jewelry museum forbade us from taking photos.

By the time we finished the Peranakan Mansion, we were famished and so we headed to the Woodlands again for our meal. The hotel was less than five minutes from the mansion and so after a scrumptious meal, we returned back to the hotel for some rest before we went to Batu Ferringhi in the afternoon.

Part 1: The Planning and the Preparations                                                                         Part 2: The Hotel                                                                                                                Part 3: Kek Lok Si Temple and Penang Hill