The district of Diu is made up of Diu Island and two small enclaves on the Indian mainland with the district headquarters at Diu Town and is the ninth least populous district in the country, out of 640. Historically part of the Saurashtra region of Gujarat, under Portuguese rule it mirrored the system of administrative division in Portugal and was headed by a district governor, subordinate to the governor-general of Portuguese India in Goa and remained an overseas territory of Portugal until it was annexed by Indian forces on 19 December 1961. From 1961 to 1987, it was a part of the union territory of Goa, Daman and Diu and in 1987, it became a part of the newly formed union territory of Daman and Diu and in January 2020, became part of the new union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu. Diu occupies an area of 40 sq km and consists of Diu Island and the Ghogolá peninsula on the mainland. 20 km east of Diu Island, is the small territory of Simbor.
Diu Island is where the town of Diu is located. An island off the southern coast of Gujarat’s Kathiawar peninsula, separated from the mainland by a tidal creek, the island has an area of 40 sq km.
Diu Fort, also known as Praça de Diu in Portuguese was built by the Portuguese during their rule with the town located to the west of the fort. Built in 1535 after a defence alliance forged by Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat and the Portuguese when Humayun, the Mughal Emperor, waged war to annex this territory, the fort had some additions made in 1541 and was strengthened over the years, till 1546. The fort is massive and well preserved with a double moat that must have been impregnable once, but years of sea erosion and neglect are leading to its slow collapse. Cannonballs litter the place, and the ramparts have a superb array of cannons. The lighthouse in the fort is Diu’s highest point, with a beam that reaches 32 km in every direction and spectacular views of the surrounding. There are several small chapels, one holding engraved tombstone fragments. Part of the fort also serves as the island’s jail. The fort commands a magnificent view of the sea, and a jetty constructed on the northwestern coast was once used to trade with Cambay, Broach and Surat in Gujarat. Along with the Basilica of Bom Jesus in old Goa, Diu fort was listed as the seven wonders of Portugal during their colonial rule. The fort is surrounded by water from three sides and is divided into three different segments, the outer wall built along the coastline, the inner wall where guns are mounted and the double moat which stands between the two walls to protect the fort. The double moated wall is built from sandstone and is capable enough to keep the enemies at bay. Three gates lead up to the fortress, and the one used for entry and has five large windows with stone galleries. A permanent bridge leads to the main entryway that is engraved with inscriptions in Portuguese.
Opposite the Diu Fort, is the Panikota Fort also known as the Fortim do Mar, which translates to Sea Fort or Panikotha that was once used as a jail for the Diu Island. A 16th-century ruin, the Panikota Fort is built right at the mouth of the creek and is a magnificent stone structure in the sea. Approximately one nautical mile from the Diu jetty, it also has a lighthouse and a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Sea. The fortress creates a beautiful view whether seen from the jetty, from the villages of Ghoghla, from Diu proper or from the Fort itself.
The St Paul’s Church is named after St. Paul, the Apostle of Jesus also known as the Apostle to the Gentiles, and was built in 1601. Dedicated to Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, it is built in the style similar to Bom Jesus Basilica church at Goa. Illuminated by floodlights at night, the main façade of the church is perhaps the most elaborate of all Portuguese churches in India and is built in a Baroque style of architecture and is the largest and only functioning church in Diu. The interiors of the church are impressive with intricately carved woodwork and the design includes delicate volutes and shell-like motifs. The altar has an image of St. Mary and is carved from Burmese teak with 101 candles around it. Above the altar, there is a blue and white barrel-vaulted nave adorned with priceless old paintings and statues.
Now a museum, the old St. Thomas Church houses antique statues, various stone inscriptions of the earlier rulers, wooden carvings and idols. The huge edifice built in the Gothic architectural style was built in 1598 with a part converted into a museum with artefacts displayed dating to the 16th century. Established in 1593, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi is said to be one of the oldest churches in Diu which is today a hospital. Named after Saint Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone, this hilltop church has a distinct Portuguese architectural style. The wide set of stairs at the entrance leads to its ivory-embellished external feature and offers great views of the Arabian sea.
The Gangeshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located 3 km away from Diu Town in Fudam village. Believed to have been built by the Pandavas, this temple is famous for its five Shiva Lingas, or rocks in the shape of Lord Shiva which is present in the middle of the sea. Only the tip of these rocks can be seen whenever there is a high tide because the seawater submerges them. Gangeshwar refers to Lord Shiva who is considered to be the Lord of River Ganga since the Ganges descended to earth from the locks of Lord Shiva. This temple is also known as the Seashore Temple since it is situated near the seashore. On the rock above the Shiva Linga is a Seshanag which was carved to look out for the Shiva Linga. Lord Ganesha, Lord Vishnu, and Goddess Lakshmi can be found at the entrance of the temple. At the time of high tide rise, the crystal clear water of the tidal waves cleans the whole temple along with the Lingas.
The INS Khukri Memorial is the memorial site of an Indian Naval Ship that sank during the India-Pakistan war of 1971. The submarine was destroyed on 9th December 1971 when torpedo shots were fired on it, sinking the ship 40 nautical miles off the coast of Diu. At the time of the sinking, there were 18 officers and 176 sailors on board. A memorial was set up to commemorate the brave martyrs comprising of a scaled model of INS Khukri enclosed in a glass case.
The Zampa Gateway is a major landmark hemming the northern part of the town. The bright red painted gateway wall is carved with dedicated angels, lions and a priest with an artificial waterfall adding to its beauty.
Located outside the wall of Diu Fort, the Naida Caves are a group of interlinked caves constructed by the Portuguese featuring a big network of tunnels with square hewn steps that remain completely unexplored. These caves are natural and were formed due to geological irregularities and natural processes and came to light after the Portuguese broke down sections of a huge rock formation they used for construction. The caves also have a natural opening that lets in sunlight, making them photogenic. During Operation Vijay several soldiers of the Indian army were stationed at the Naida Caves.
Sunset Point is a beautiful hillock located near the Chakritirath beach, which offers mesmerising views of the sunset. The hillock and the surrounding areas have been beautifully landscaped and illuminated.
A unique experience of the coastal Saurashtra region is the presence of the Hoka Palm trees. As one drives in and around Diu, the trees which are native to the northern half of Africa and regions of the Arabian Peninsula, commonly called Doum Palm trees can be found in large numbers. Diu is the only region in India where these trees are found. The Hoka trees are unique in their structure, with branches and offshoots emanating from their central trunk. The Hoka seed is a beautiful oval sphere, red in colour, resembling a cricket ball, that hangs high up of the palm-like structure of the trees. It is highly edible and local alcohol, Tadi is prepared using the Hoka seeds.
The Nagoa Beach is a horseshoe-shaped beach surrounded by palm trees with white sands and blue waters and is known for its Hoka trees. The beach extends over an area of 2 km from one end to the other and has amazing sunrises and sunsets. Ghogla Beach is located to the north of Diu town and on the mainland and is not very crowded and therefore comparatively cleaner. Chakratirth Beach is adjacent to the town and holds significance in Hindu mythology for being the site of the beheading of the demon Jalandhar by Lord Krishna. Named after the demon, Jallandhar, the Jallandhar Beach lies about 1 km from Diu town and has a temple dedicated to Goddess Chandrika and a memorial atop a hill with a stone structure of the demon Jallandhar. Located on the western end of Diu in Vanakbara village, and also known as Vanakbara Beach, Gomtimata Beach is secluded and has natural white sand. However, this beach is not safe for swimming as it is prone to high tides. It is named after the Gomtimata Temple dedicated to Devi Gomti.
The area on the mainland borders the Gir Somnath district of Gujarat and contains the village of Ghogola which lies opposite the eastern end of the island. The tiny territory of Simbor or Simar, located about 25 km east of the town of Diu, is also part of the district. The exclave has a very thin population, essentially a floating fishing community for part of the year only. The territory of the present-day exclave of Simbor is the same as it was in the colonial era and consists of two plots of land on either side of the estuary of the Sahil or Vançoso River and an islet at the mouth of the river on which is built the Fort St. Anthony of Simbor. The village of Simbor or Simar which lies about 2 km to the northeast and which in the early days had been occupied by the Portuguese for a brief period is not part of the territory and is part of the state of Gujarat.
A merger between two former Union Territories, the Union Territory of Dadra & Nagar Haveli and Daman & Diu was created when the union territories of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu were merged in January 2020. This makes this Union Territory India’s newest. The territory is made up of four separate geographical entities Dadra, Nagar Haveli, Daman and the island of Diu with all four areas part of Portuguese India with the capital in Velha Goa. The four areas came under Indian administration in the mid-20th century after the annexation of Goa and Daman. The capital city is Daman while Silvassa is the largest city.
Daman and Diu were under Portuguese administration from the 1500s until they came under Indian rule on 19 December 1961, while Dadra and Nagar Haveli were under the Portuguese from 1818 until 1954 and formally became a part of India on 11 August 1961. Dadra and Nagar Haveli was administered as a de facto state, the Free Dadra and Nagar Haveli, before becoming a union territory in 1961 and Daman and Diu were administered as part of the union territory of Goa, Daman and Diu between 1962 and 1987, becoming a separate union territory when Goa was granted statehood. The two union territories were merged to reduce duplication of services and reduce the cost of administration. The town of Daman was chosen to be the capital of the new combined union territory.
Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu is composed of four distinct areas located in Western India. Dadra is a small enclave within the state of Gujarat. Nagar Haveli is a C shaped enclave located between the states of Gujarat and Maharashtra which contains a counter enclave of Gujarat around the village of Maghval. Daman is an enclave on the coast of Gujarat and Diu is an island off the coast of Gujarat.
Daman Daman is one of the three districts of the union territory on the west coast of India, surrounded by the Valsad district of Gujarat state on the north, east and south and the Arabian Sea to the west. The district has an area of 72 sq km with Daman as the district headquarters and lies at the mouth of the Daman Ganga river. Daman is also famous for its beach, Portuguese colonial architecture, churches, and for the scenic beauty in the twin towns of Nani-Daman and Moti-Daman, which lie opposite each other across the Daman Ganga.
Satrya Kshatrapas under the Kushana emperor seemed to have ruled over Daman during the 1st century. The names of the places, Dahanu, Daman and Pardi, have remained unchanged for the last 2000 years. Rudraman I, grandson of Chastan of the Kadamaka branch of Kshatrapas reconquered a large part of Western India including the seaboard from the river Mahi in Gujarat to Ratnagiri by about 150 AD from Satavahana ruler, Satakarni, and Daman district again passed under the rule of Kshatrapa Vijayasen who seems to have ruled till 249 AD. The district seems to have been subjected to the rule of traikutakas during the 5th century and the Lata Country was ruled by Rashtrakutas of Malkhed in the Deccan directly till 808. By the middle of the 13th century, a Rajput prince Ramsingh alias Ramashah seems to have defeated the Koli chief Nathorat and established himself in the hilly tract at Asheri of Asserseta near Daman about 1262. Daman was occupied by the Portuguese in 1531 and was formally ceded to Portugal in 1539 by the Sultan of Gujarat.
Mirroring the system of administrative division in European Portugal, Daman district was established as an administrative division of the Portuguese State of India in the first half of the 19th century and was made up of the Portuguese territories of Daman, Dadra and Nagar Haveli, headed by a district governor, subordinate to the governor-general of Portuguese India in Goa. The Dadra and Nagar Haveli landlocked parts of the Daman district were occupied by pro-Indian Union forces in 1954. In 1961, Dadra and Nagar Haveli was officially annexed by India, forming a union territory separated from Daman. The rest of the district remained under Portuguese rule until it was annexed by Indian forces on 19 December 1961. From 1961-87, it was a part of the union territory of Goa, Daman and Diu. In 1987, it became a part of the newly formed union territory of Daman and Diu and in January 2020 became part of the new Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu.
The House of Bockage was named after the former residence of the Portuguese poet Bockage and is located just near the gate of Daman Fort. The Collector’s Office, once the centre of administration during the Portuguese rule, is an elegant old building depicting the Portuguese gothic style of architecture. Presently, the building houses the Office of the Collector and the District Magistrate of Daman and is situated in the centre of the city. Also known as the Nani Daman Fort, St Jerome Fort has a huge gateway that faces the river. There is a large statue of St. Jerome inside the fort premises. The complex also contains the church of Our Lady of the Sea and a Jain temple and offers a beautiful view of the fish market below and is a pretty and popular tourist attraction. Nani Daman or Little Daman, as the name suggests, is the smaller of the two parts of the city. The region mainly comprises several Gothic-style churches, a Lighthouse, the famous Nani Daman Fort and an old Jain temple featuring 18th-century glass murals and paintings. There is also a local Dubai market that has everything at a very reasonable cost. The Cathedral of Bom Jesus is a popular place built-in 1603, the design, architecture and craftsmanship reflect the passion with which the Portuguese built this cathedral. Formerly a Catholic monastery and a place of worship, the Dominican Monastery is a historic ruin that served as the headquarters of theological studies in the past and has a beautifully engraved floral stone dotting the main altar. The Somnath Mahadev Temple is an old Hindu shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Shivalinga is believed to have formed in the 19th century at the request of a monk and is famous for hosting an annual fair that attracts thousands of devotees.
The Jetty Garden, located on the shores of the Daman Ganga river near Moti Daman, is an elegantly designed garden with exotic arrangements of fountains with fun rides available to keep children busy. Located close to the Coast Guard Air Station, the Satya Sagar Udyan is lined with colourful fountains, shrub-skirted promenades and enchanting landscape. There is also a temple in the vicinity of the garden. The Mirasol Lake Garden is a man-made marvel which is a popular tourist attraction. Surrounded by a beautiful lake and two islands connected by a bridge, the garden has boat rides and fountains as well as facilities for other activities. With a water park located just next to it, this lake garden also serves as a location for many film shootings. Devka Beach is massive, picturesque and pretty unspoilt with clean blue waters, well-maintained shores and a special amusement park that houses huge fountains and a play area for children. Jampore Beach is located about 5 km from the Moti Daman Jetty and is famous for its blackish mud-coloured water. Away from the hustle of the city, the beach is breezy and covered with trees and a great place to relax. The Lighthouse at Daman offers magnificent sunset views and is a major landmark of the town, situated inside a fort. The Daman Ganga Tourist Complex is a well-planned and beautifully laid out garden that offers a plethora of services and facilities including a cafeteria, a conference hall for meetings, a health club and a theatre.
Karaikal is also an enclave of Tamil Nadu and occupies an area of 160 sq km. A small coastal enclave, Karaikal is bound on three sides by districts of Tamil Nadu and the Bay of Bengal on the east.It is about 132 km south of Puducherry. Karaikal became a French Colony in 1674 who controlled the enclave, with occasional interruption from the British and Dutch, until 1954, when it was incorporated into the Republic of India, along with Chandernagore, Mahé, Yanaon, and Pondichéry. Forming a part of the fertile Cauvery delta, the region is completely covered by the distributaries of Cauvery and the group of rocks known as Cuddalore formations met with in the area contiguous to Karaikal region in Nagappattinam district.
The origin of the word Karaikal is uncertain with the British probably meaning it means a fish pass. But both the words, Karai and Kal have multiple meanings, of which the more acceptable ones are lime mix and canal respectively and it has been suggested that the name may mean a canal built of lime mix, however, no trace of such a canal is evident.
Before 1739, Karaikal was under the regime and control of Raja Pratap Singh of Tanjore. In 1738, the French negotiated with Sahuji of Thanjavur for possession of Karaikal, the fortress of Karakalcheri and five village for 40,000 chakras and took possession of Karaikal town, the fort of Karakalcheri and eight dependent villages on 14 February 1739. By a treaty signed on 12 January 1750 Pratap Singh ceded to the French 81 villages around Karaikal and cancelled the annual rent payable for the villages. This was all the territory the French possessed around Thanjavur when they surrendered to the British in 1761. The territory then passed twice to British control before it was finally handed over to the French in 1816/1817 under the Treaty of Paris of 1814.
In 1947, after the rest of India became independent, the French territories also started their struggle until 31 October when the French flag was lowered with due military honours and the de facto transfer of power took place on 1 November 1954 followed by de jure transfer on 16 August 1962.
The breathtaking views from Karaikal Beach is what makes it so popular. It is a natural beach that lies on the Bay of Bengal and is an excellent spot for a dip and for evening walks. An ideal place to witness the sunset, there is a rocky path here to walk on, fishing boats to watch and plenty of opportunities for nature photography. The beach is perfect for water activities like swimming, canoeing and kayaking with the boat club allowing visitors to rent motor boats, peddle boats and rowing boats. There is a lighthouse on the premises that attracts large crowds with several fountains adding to the area’s appeal. There is also a children’s park and a tennis court close by. A walk or drive from the Arasalar Bridge provides an opportunity to admire the water, the hills around and the mangroves near the backwaters.
Mahé is an enclave of Kerala and the smallest district by size and the sixth least populous district of India. It is bound on three sides by districts of Kerala and the Arabian Sea on the west and geographically is part of North Malabar. Also known as Mayyazhi, Mahé is situated at the mouth of the Mahé River.
The name Mahé derives from Mayyazhi, the name given to the local river and region in the Malayalam. It was also called variously from the early 1720s as Mayé, Mahé and Mahié until the early 19th century when Mahé became the how the town was spelt. Before the arrival of the European trading companies, this area was part of the Kolathu Nadu which comprised of Thulunadu, Chirakkal and Kadathanadu. The French East India Company constructed a fort on the site of Mahé in 1724, because of an accord between André Mollandin and Raja Vazhunnavar of Vatakara three years earlier. In 1741, the French retook the town after a short period of occupation by the Marathas. In 1761 the British captured Mahé, and the settlement was handed over to the Rajah of Kadathanadu. The British restored Mahé to the French as a part of the 1763 Treaty of Paris and in 1779, the French lost Mahé in the Anglo-French war. In 1783, the British agreed to restore to the French their settlements in India, and Mahé was handed over to the French in 1785 and captured it in 1793 and then restored it back to the French in 1816 as part of the 1814 Treaty of Paris. After Indian independence, it continued to be French-ruled until 13 June 1954, when a long anti-colonial struggle culminated in it joining the Indian Union as a district of Puducherry Union Territory.
The Sri Puthalam Bhagavathy Temple is an ancient historic temple dedicated to Goddess Bhagavathi. The temple’s legend is based on events that occurred during the conflict between the French and Indian armies. The historic St Theresa Church was constructed in 1757 as a part of the Mahe Mission. Mooppenkunnu is a hillock and a popular picnic spot with pavements to walk on, benches to rest and a restroom facility. The hillock contains the historic Lighthouse and is a famous sunset view point.
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The walkway on the banks of Mahé river is a major tourist attraction which surrounds the landscape and has park benches to relax and enjoy the beauty of the river. Azhimukham is the estuary of the Mahe river and the Arabian Sea. There is a small park named Tagore Park here and the reconstruction of a 2-km walkway along the bank of river from the estuary towards Mahe Bridge.
Located close to Kannur, Mahe Beach is a quiet and clean beach, part of Kerala’s northern coast. Lined with tall palm trees, the beach is a must-visit during the early hours of the morning to witness the gorgeous sunrise. Ideal not just for swimming, but also for beach sports, the view of the sunrises and sunsets are absolutely spectacular. There are several fishermen villages around the beach because of which there are always numerous colourful boats around. Dharmadam Island is ideal for watching the sunrise or sunset which can be reached by a short boat ride.
An enclave of Andhra Pradesh, Yanam is one of the four districts of the Union Territory of Puducherry in India and occupies an area of 20 sq km. It is located south of Kakinada port on the north bank of the Godavari River, slightly inland and is surrounded by the East Godavari district of Andhra Pradesh. Yanam is covered with coconut trees and is located over the banks of the Gauthami Godavari River, one of the main branches of the river Godavari when it enters the Bay of Bengal after flowing about 12 km through Yanam. Indigo wells or Neelikundilu are still found in the west of Yanam.
Yanam or Yanaon as it was called during the French colonial times, is located in the East Godavari district in Andhra Pradesh with a population of 35,000, most of whom speak Telugu. A French colony for nearly 200 years, it possesses a blend of French and Telugu culture, and is nicknamed Frelugu. During French rule, the Tuesday market, the Marché du mardi or Mangalavaram Santa was popular among residents of the the Madras Presidency, who used to visit Yanam to buy foreign and smuggled goods during Yanam People’s Festival held annually in January. After the implementation of the Child Marriage Restraint Act, 1929 in British India, people often travelled to Yanam to conduct child marriages, which remained legal under the French administration.
Yanaon was a Dutch colony prior to French takeover in the 1720s and the Dutch built a fort, used to store their currency, which was minted at nearby Neelapalli. The location of the fort is today referred to by locals as the Saali Kota or Saalivandru, meaning shawl-hut, since after the Dutch moved out, the building was taken over by cloth weavers. The region was presented to the by the king of Vizianagaram as a token of gratitude for their help in his fight against the rulers of Bobbili. Yanaon was the third French colony established in India, though it was officially confirmed as one only by 1751. It went to the British after the Anglo-French war of 1758 which was won by the British and was restored again to the French in 1785. During 1793 and 1816 it was under British control and after the Napoleonic wars, by the Treaty of Paris of 1814, Yanam along with the factory at Machilipatnam was finally returned to the French on 26 September 1816. From then it was continuously under French control until its transfer to India in 1954.
The Lord Sri Rajarajeswara Temple on the bank of Atreya Godavari, which is also known as the Corangi river. The temple was built by the Chalukya kings of Rajamahendravaram or Rajahmundry in the 15th century with sculptures of that period present in the temple. The main festivals in the temple are the Kalyanotsavam and the Rathostavam which have been performed for centuries with devotees singing slogans and bhajans. The Kalyanotsavam festival celebrated in January/February is when Lord Srī Rajarajeswara becomes a groom and has a procession on the streets of the town with chariots each day. The Kalyaṇam, Rathotsavam and Trisulatirtham are the important events of the festival with the Vahana Samprokshaṇa or the ritual cleansing of the chariot done by priests every day for each of the chariots used for the procession.
The Venkanna Babu Temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu known as Venkanna Babu, Chaldikudu Venkanna and Meesala Venkanna. The speciality of the temple is that the Lord’s idol has a big moustache like that of Lord Sathyanarayana Swamy of Annavaram. The temple was built by the Chalukya kings of Rajamahendravaram or Rajahmundry in the 15th century. This temple used to perform child marriages and when the Child Marriage Act was passed in British India, people from nearby areas used to come here to conduct such marriages as the French allowed such practices.
The site for the Grand Mosque was donated by the French Government in 1848 and a small mosque was constructed there and in 1956, it was remodelled. It was demolished in 1978 and a new mosque constructed and in 1999–2000, the mosque was expanded to become the Grand Mosque. Around 200 persons can pray in this mosque at a time.
The French Catholic are linked with the Catholic Church in Yanam, the St. Ann’s Catholic Church. Built in the European style, in 1846 by French missionaries, all furniture and decoration articles were imported from France. The church holds a Catholic Festival in March
Yanam Beach is the best getaway to spend quiet time away from the crowds. Also known as the Rajiv Gandhi Beach, one can take boat rides at the beach as well as walks along the Ferry Road. There are many packages available including a ride over the Godavari River, cruises to a few islands, visiting the Sangam where the river meets the sea or a ride to the mangrove forest on the Gowthami Godavari River. There are also houseboat services that begin from Rajiv Gandhi Arch Road near the Shiva Linga. The Yanam Ferry Road inaugurated in 2000 is a walking trail along the beach with elephant statues guarding the Shiva Linga from the entrance to the pathway. The Nagoor Meera Sahib Mandir on the Ferry Road is built as a ship.
The Palais de Justice or the French courthouse and St. Ann’s Catholic Church are around 1 km away from the beach. The Court building is situated in an ancient white monument building of French architecture and has two floors, the ground floor is the court and the first floor is the residential quarters of the judge and was renovated in 1967. The Sivalayam on the banks of the Corangi River is 3 km away from the beach and is a religious hub. The Fete de Pondicherry is a three-day cultural event conducted by the government of Puducherry.
The Coringa Wildlife Sanctuary is 21 km away from Yanam Beach and is a great spot for bird lovers. The sanctuary shelters more than 120 bird species and endangered species, such as the long-billed vulture and the white-backed vulture are found here.
This short, but interesting series on the Union Territory of Puducherry was quite illunimating to me as I hope it was for you. I learnt a lot about the former French colonies of India, especially Karaikal, Mahe and Yanam, which I barely knew about previously.
Also known as the Riviera of the East, the Union Territory of Puducherry, formerly known as Pondicherry is one of the seven Union Territories in India formed out of four territories of former French India, namely Pondichéry or Pondicherry named Puducherry today, Karikal or Karaikal, Mahé and Yanaon or Yanam, excluding Chandannagar. It is named after the largest district, Puducherry. Historically known as Pondicherry or Paṇṭicceri, the territory changed its official name to Puducherry on 20 September 2006. The Union Territory lies in the southern part of the Indian Peninsula with the areas of the Puducherry and Karaikal districts bound by the state of Tamil Nadu, while the Yanam and Mahé districts are enclosed by the states of Andhra Pradesh and Kerala, respectively. Puducherry is the third most densely populated among the states and union territories.
The earliest recorded history of Puducherry can be traced to the second century. The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea mentions a marketplace named Poduke, which seems to suggest a location about 3 km from modern Puducherry, possibly the location of Arikamedu which is today part of Ariyankuppam. According to archaeologists, Roman pottery was found at Arikamedu which was a trading station to which goods of Roman manufacture were imported between the third or second century BC to the eighth century AD.
In 1674, the municipality of Pondicherry became a French colony of the French colonial empire. Together with Chandernagor which was already French since 1673, Mahé which was French since 1721, Yanam which was in French possession since 1731, Karaikal, in French possession since 1739 and Masulipatam which belonged to the French since 1760, it formed the French colony of French India, under a single French governor in Pondicherry, although French rule over one or more of these enclaves was repeatedly interrupted by British occupations. The territories of French India were completely transferred to the Republic of India de facto on 1 November 1954, and de jure on 16 August 1962, when French India ceased to exist, becoming the present Indian constituent union territory of Pondicherry, combining four coastal enclaves, with the exception of Chandannagar, which merged with the state of West Bengal in 1954.
Puducherry and Karaikal have the largest areas and population. Some of Puducherry’s regions are themselves amalgamations of non-contiguous enclaves, called pockets in India. The Puducherry region is made of 11 such pockets, some of which are very small and entirely surrounded by the territory of Tamil Nadu. The Mahé region is made up of three pockets and this unusual geography is a legacy of the colonial period with Puducherry retaining the borders of former French India. All four regions of Puducherry are located in the coastal region with five rivers in the Puducherry district, seven in the Karaikal district, two in the Mahé district and one in the Yanam district draining into the sea, but none of them originates within the territory.
The streets of the French Quarter of Pondicherry, also known as White Town, are dotted with charming mustard-yellow colonial structures with bougainvillaea laden walls. These are interspersed with cosy cafes and chic boutiques that offer delectable French cuisine and beverages. Simply strolling down these streets, can give the traveller an insight into the fairytale charm of Pondicherry.
Puducherry The Puducherry district is an enclave of Tamil Nadu with Puducherry city the capital and the most-populous city of the Union Territory. The city is on the southeast coast of India and is surrounded by the state of Tamil Nadu, with which it shares most of its culture, heritage and language
The history of Puducherry is recorded only after the arrival of the Dutch, Portuguese, British and French traders. By contrast, nearby places such as Arikamedu, Ariyankuppam, Kakayanthoppe, Villianur and Bahour, which were colonised by the French East India Company over a period of time and later became the union territory of Pondicherry, have recorded histories that predate the colonial period.
The area was part of the Pallava Kingdom of Kanchipuram in the 4th century and the Cholas of Thanjavur held it from the 10th to the 13th centuries until it was replaced by the Pandya Kingdom in the 13th century. The Vijayanagar Empire took control of almost all of the south of India in the 14th century and maintained control until 1638 when they were supplanted by the Sultan of Bijapur. In 1674 the French East India Company set up a trading centre at Pondicherry and this outpost eventually became the chief French settlement in India. Five trading posts were established along the south Indian coast between 1668 and 1674 and the city was separated by a canal into the French Quarter and the Indian Quarter. In 1693, during the Nine Years’ War, Pondicherry was captured by the Dutch and at the Peace of Ryswick it was agreed by all parties to return conquered territories and in 1699 Pondicherry was handed back to the French. In 1761, the British captured Pondicherry from the French, but it was returned under the Treaty of Paris in 1763 at the end of the Seven Years’ War. The British took control of the area again in 1793 at the Siege of Pondicherry amid the Wars of the French Revolution, and returned it to France in 1814. In 1954, resolutions were passed in Pondicherry and Karaikal for immediate merger with India which took place on 1 November 1954 and was established as the Union Territory of Pondicherry. The treaty effecting the de jure transfer was signed in 1956, but got ratified by the French National Assembly only on 16 August 1962.
A tourist destination today, Puducherry has many colonial buildings, churches, temples and statues which, combined with the town planning and French style avenues in the old part of town, still preserve much of the colonial ambiance.
The Sri Aurobindo Ashram is one of the most important ashrams in India, founded by the renowned spiritual philosopher Sri Aurobindo Ghosh. Auroville or the City of Dawn is an experimental township located 8 km north-west of Puducherry in the area known as White Town. The ashram was set up to help people attain moksha and inner peace. Some of the facilities at the Ashram includes the library and the main building which can be accessed only after receiving a gate pass from the Bureau Central or guest houses of the Ashram. In addition to this, the ashram also has a spiritual centre which consists of four houses which were inhabited by the Mother and Sri Aurobindo for different intervals of time. There exists a samadhi as well in the courtyard under the frangipani tree where the bodies of Mother and Sri Aurobindo were buried. The ashram is open between 4:30 am and 11 pm while visitors can enter the ashram from 8 am to 12 noon and then between 2 to 4 pm.
Auroville founded in 1968 by Mirra Alfassa, a disciple of Sri Aurobindo and fondly known as the Mother of the Sri Aurobindo Society. The best way to experience Auroville is to actually just sit in one of the cafes and talk to residents. Conceived as the Universal Town, Auroville is an experimental township where people from all over the world and cultures come and live together in peace with people from more than 195 countries, including India here. Aurovilleans as they call themselves live together on the principles of peace, harmony, sustainable living and ‘divine consciousness which was the philosophy of the Mother.
Previously known as Palais du Government, the Raj Niwas is an 18th century building presently serving as the residence of the Lieutenant Governor of Puducherry. Not open to the general public, there is an old court featuring the Legislative Assembly situated within the building’s premises. But the prime attraction at Raj Niwas are the monolithic pillars which were brought from the Gingee Fort after it was captured in 1751. A few more pillars from the Gingee Fort also surround the Gandhi Mandapam on Promenade Beach. There is a water monument lying amid the well-maintained garden.
Located on the Ranga Pillai Street, opposite the Grand Bazaar, Ananda Ranga Pillai Mansion is an ancient heritage building, built in 1735 and named after the courtier Ananda Ranga Pillai of the French Governor, Joseph Francois Dupleix. Also known as the Native Quarters, the privately occupied mansion is among the handful buildings known to have survived the British invasion and boasts of a marvellous architecture which is a striking amalgamation of the Indian and Gothic styles. Today, only the ground floor is accessible to tourists which is constructed in traditional Tamil style with ab elaborate courtyard and carved wooden pillars in the Chettinad style. The spacious courtyard also houses a magnificent statue of Ananda Ranga Pillai. Built in European style pattern with an open terrace and native French patterns, the first floor is personal and not open for tourists. The house is currently occupied by the descendants of Ananda Pillai and if one is lucky, they can meet one of them and get a detailed tour. The mansion is open from 10 am to 6 pm and does not have any entrance fees.
Arikamedu is an ancient Roman trading centre which means eroding mount and the glass bead manufacturing factory of Arikamedu is called the mother of all bead centres in the world. The first dig in Arikamedu took place in the 1940s, and since then excavations are continuously being carried out. Currently, the town does not have much to it other than the two perpendicular walls which were laid open and the French Jesuit Mission House which was constructed in the 18th century. The site also comprises of numerous amphorae having the mark of the Roman schools including VIBII, Camuri and IITA present there where one can see the final few columns, bricks and mortars of the structure in ruins. Imports in the port town include wines contained in amphora jars, cups and plates made up of red roman clay pots, olive oil, and ceramic products.
The French War Memorial is a stylish structure dedicated to soldiers who lost their lives in the First World War. There is an annual commemoration ceremony held here on July 14 when the monument is beautifully illuminated.
The Statue of Dupleix was commissioned in 1870 to honour Francois Dupleix who governed Pondicherry until 1754. The 3-meter-high statue located at the Place du Republique is built over amazing granite columns and overlooks a lovely children’s park lying at the southern end of the Goubert Avenue.
At the centre of the Bharathi Park stands the Aayi Mandapam, a pearly white edifice built during the reign of Napolean III, Emperor of France. The monument was built in the honour of the female courtesan Ayi who tore down her own house to build a water reservoir for the city. The pavilion is constructed in a Greco-Roman architectural style and is set amidst beautiful well-maintained lawns, gorgeous fountains and blooming flowers, dotted with quaint little benches. The pavilion is open from 8 am to 8 pm daily.
The four-meter-high statue of Mahatma Gandhi is surrounded by eight granite pillars, which were supposedly brought from Gingee, a fort 70 km from Puducherry. The statue is placed in the middle of a garden and attracts tourists in large number.
Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Devasthanam on Manakula Vinayagar Street is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha called Vellakkaran Pillai. The temple is said to be over 500 years old and in existence before the French settled down in the city. The temple attracts a large number of devotees especially on the 18th day of the Brahmotsavam festival and on Ganesh Chaturthi. According to a local legend, a Frenchman made several attempts tried to remove the Ganesha idol from the temple, but each time the idol was removed, it reappeared on its own. After witnessing this, the Frenchman became an ardent devotee. The temple is open from 5:45 am to 12:30 pm and then again between 4 to 9:30 pm.
The Sengazhuneer Amman Temple at Veerampattinam village is one of the oldest temples in the Union Territory, about 7 km away from the city centre. The car festival conducted in mid-August is famous in Puducherry and other neighbouring states. The festival takes place on the fifth Friday of the start of the Tamil month of Aadi which approximates to mid-June to mid-July. The temple car festival is the only one where the head of the state pulls the temple car and this tradition follows from the days of the French rule.
The Thirukaameeswarar Temple is an ancient temple located in Villianur about 10 km from Puducherry. This temple is renowned as a Periya Koil or a Big Temple and is dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Kokilambigai and as well as other deities in the temple. Locals put the age at more than 1000 years old and is thought to have been built by one of the Chola kings and the temple has a huge pond in the premises. The Ther Thiruvizha or the chariot procession is celebrated with a 15-meter-high chariot pulled by devotees through the streets of the town.
The Varadaraja Perumal Temple is another ancient temple dating back to 600 AD. Built in the typical Dravidian style, complete with brightly coloured gopurams or towers and sculpted pillars, the temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Legend has it, that the temple was originally built for the idols of Lord Rama, Goddess Sita, Lord Lakshman and Lord Hanuman which were brought to the present site by fishermen, from the sea. The main deity here is Varadaraja Perumal or Lord Vishnu and right behind that is a separate shrine for Narashima, an avatar of Lord Vishnu.
The Kanniga Parameswari Temple is dedicated to the Goddess Shakti and has a blend of both Tamil and French architecture. With its arched walls, ionic columns, stained glass windows and even some angel decorations, it is reminiscent of a French building. However, the inner ceiling supported by the more traditional granite pillars and the sanctum sanctoram, which has a typical Tamil design, highlights the more traditional Tamil features.
The Sri Karneshwar Nataraja Temple is an unusual and yet beautiful temple. Constructed in a pyramid shape, the temple is built to resemble the great pyramids of Egypt and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Originally built in 2000, the temple was destroyed by the tsunami of 2004 and the new pyramid temple that was built was bigger and better. The presiding deity, Lord Shiva, is housed in a central chamber under the pointed dome with the centre axis so that the third eye is exactly at a distance of one-third from the base of the temple and the structure pointed northwards to generate maximum energy. The entrance of the shrine faces south because Lord Shiva is also called Dakshinamoorht or teacher of the south.
The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, situated on the south boulevard contains rare stained glass panels depicting events from the life of Christ. Erected by French missionaries in 1908, the church was given the status of a Basilica in 2011. The church has words from the Bible engraved in the entrance in Latin along with the images of Jesus and Mother Mary on the door of the entrance. The Basilica is 50 meters in length with a width of 48 meters and a height of 18 meters with beautiful glass windows along with two spires and a big exterior and terracotta craft encircled glass windows. The huge interiors are held together by 24 columns and inside there are 28 glass paintings of Catholic saints and statue of the Madonna on the right side of the altar draped in a blue sari. The Basilica is open from 7 am to 6:30 pm from Mondays to Saturdays and from 8 am to 6:30 pm on Sundays.
The Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges or The Church of Our Lady of Angels is notable for its masonry, which uses the finest of limestone mixed with white of the egg, making for a texture identical to that of white marble. It is modelled on the Basilica at Lourdes, in southern France and the imposing façade presents paired Doric columns below and ionic above. In front of the church is a statue of Our Lady with the infant Jesus in her arms. The interior of the church consists of eight barrel vaults and a central dome pierced with eight circular openings. First built in 1692, the church took it’s current shape in 1791.
The Meeran Mosque is the oldest mosque in Puducherry and was built over 350 years back in the old Gothic Islamic architecture style. It was built by the Arcot nawab with four lofty pillars below its dome. There is a bronze Kallasas in the top of the minaret’s facade minaret and graves of Meeran, the person who built this mosque and that of Suubhi Errai Perrar Mullah. The Kuthbha or Preaching Mosque was the first mosque in Puducherry and is said that during the 17th century, as the mosque was in the white area, the French ordered it and the Islamic neighbourhood shifted to the southern end of the town. The mosque has the daarga of Moulla Saiubum and is mostly frequented by Tamil speaking Muslims. Next to Kuthba Mosque is Muhamadia Mosque which is older and frequented by Urdu speaking Muslims. The Maulah Sahib Dargha is in between the two mosques.
The Puducherry Botanical Garden’s gate leading to the garden is reminiscent of French architecture and stands out from its immediate surroundings because it is in the middle of the old Tamil town. The Botanical Gardens were laid out in 1826 in the ornate French style, with pruned trees, flower beds and gravel lined paths and fountains. The French introduced many exotic plants from all over the world. The Aquarium houses a diverse collection of aquatic organisms as well as fish flora. One can also see the different methods of fishing adopted in the coastal areas being showcased here. The gardens also have a musical fountain which is active over the weekends, with two shows in the evening.
The Ousteri Wetland and National Park lies in both Tamil Nadu and Pondicherry, about 10 km from Puducherry and covers an area of about 4 sq km with a wide range of aquatic species and is mainly a bird sanctuary. The vegetation ranges from small herbs to trees, which supports migratory avifauna as well as native birds during the summer and winter months. Visitors can also avail the house boat facilities available in the national park.
The Government Park or Bharati Park is in the green centre of the town in the old colonial town with the Aayi Mandapam at the centre of the park. The significance of this park is derived from the fact that it is surrounded by some of the most important government buildings like the Lt. Governor’s Palace, the Legislative Assembly, Government Hospital, Ashram Dining Room, the Cercle de Pondichéry private club, and the old Hotel Qualite. The park has some very gorgeous water fountains, flower beds and is dotted with quaint little granite benches. There is also a children’s play area, a tiny artificial pond and a traffic park with massive statues of the famous people. The park is open daily from 8 am to 8 pm.
The Puducherry Science Centre & Planetarium is also known as the Puducherry Science Park and was designed, developed and set up by the National Council of Science Museums. The Science Demonstration Corner has provisions to conduct live demonstrations and experiments while the children’s corner is where children can enjoy simple experiments with a variety of puzzles and science kits.
Located in the Bharathi Park, the Pondicherry Museum houses a fantastic collection of sculptures and remains of the archaeological findings from the Arikamedu Roman settlement. The museum also has a collection of rare bronzes and stone sculptures from the Pallava and Chola dynasties as well as a wide variety of temple lamps, handicrafts and art.
The Pudhuvai Museum is a non-governmental museum operated by a non-profit organisation. Adjacent to the Botanical Gardens, the museum is run with the help of the National Heritage Trust. The map gallery, houses thousands of maps and is named after Indian cartographer Nine Singh Rawat with 100 maps on display currently.
The Bharathidasan Museum, is the former house of the Pondicherry-born poet and playwright – Bharathidasan who lived between 1891 and 1960. Bharthidasan, whose name means a disciple of Bharathi was a poet whose poems compare with Bharathi’s in literary achievement and poetic fervour. He also wrote scripts for films on issues such as the Dravidian culture and the rights of women.
Subramanya Bharathi who lived between 1882 and 1921 and commonly known as Bharathiyar, was a Tamil poet-patriot who arrived in Pondicherry in 1908, a fugitive from British India. The French colony brought out the best in Bharathi and some of his finest patriotic and romantic compositions were written here. Bharathi’s home also known as the Bharathi Museum and is almost a place of pilgrimage today for the Tamil people.
The Jawahar Toy Museum is located next to the old lighthouse and is open on all days except Mondays. With a collection of over 120 dolls, each dressed in costumes from the various Indian states, the museum also has a display of a little fairyland with a tiny Lord Ganesha watching over everything and everyone. The Children’s Museum is located next to the Botanical Gardens and has collections of snail shells from the Pondicherry region.
Puducherry has two lighthouses, an old one and a new one with the former closed to the public today, but the latter, the Pondicherry Lighthouse is famous for the amazing views it offers visitors. During the 19th century, the only landmark for sailors arriving in Pondicherry was the Red Hills, about three km towards the west of the town and so the French planned a lighthouse here to provide a reference point to them. The old lighthouse was erected in 1836 but closed to the public in 1979 and the new lighthouse was opened the same year. The base of the new lighthouse isn’t a simple rectangular one but a two-storied circular construction.
Chunambar is a quaint little hamlet around 8 km from Puducherry and is famous for its Paradise Beach which is situated near the mouth of the backwaters with pristine sand and crystallized waters. Also known as Plage Paradiso, the Paradise Beach is located in Chunnambar and is slightly out of the way with a 30-minute ferry across the breakwaters the way to get there. The backwaters are green with thick mangrove forests. Short cruises are also organised here which gives beautiful views and one can spot dolphins in the water. The water alongside Chunambar is a natural stream and is not very deep and there is a small shelter provided which can keep bags and offers some food and water with changing rooms provided as well.
One of the things that does justice to Puducherry’s French roots is its beautiful Seaside Promenade. Well maintained, clean and beautiful, one can actually feel the foam spray on their faces there.
The Promenade Beach is a famous stretch of beachfront that extends for 1.2 km from the War Memorial to the Dupleix Park. The beach is often crowded especially during the evenings and is usually characterised by ocean sprays, waterscape and waves of chatters. There are many significant landmarks nearby, namely the War Memorial, the statue of Joan of Arc, the heritage Town Hall, old lighthouse, the statue of Mahatma Gandhi, the remains of the old pier, Dupleix Statue and the old Customs House. The beach can be easily distinguished from other beaches due to the presence of a long wall of rocks along its shore to prevent the erosion and subsiding shoreline.
Located 10 kms, on the outskirts on Puducherry in Kottakuppam, Serenity Beach gets its name from the Spa-Resort-Inn located at the spot with the same name. Originally, the beach was called Thanthirayan Kuppam Beach or Kottakuppam Beach. The beach is isolated and little known and popular among fishermen. A few surfing schools located in the vicinity, offer coaching for the same.
Auroville Beach, also known as the Auro Beach is part of the Auroville Ashram and is situated about 10 km from the city. A very popular beach, Auro Beach attracts a lot of tourists and locals. The beach closes at every day 6:30 pm.
Located on the outskirts of Puducherry in the largest coastal village of Veerampattinam, Veerampattinam Beach has an extensive coastline and is little known with minimal tourists and boasts of golden sand. The most popular festival celebrated at the beach is the temple car festival.
In the next part, which is the last part, we will explore the other French colonies which constitute the Puducherry Union Territory.
About 114 km southwest of Prayagraj lies the small town of Chitrakoot. Called the Place of many Wonders, Chitrakoot is situated in the north Vindhyan range and holds great importance according to Hindu mythology and the Ramayana. Legend has it that Chitrakoot was the place where Lord Rama, his wife Goddess Sita and his brother Lord Lakshmana stayed for eleven and half of their fourteen years of exile making it a revered pilgrimage site. According to the Ramayana, Chitrakoot was where Bharata, brother of Lord Rama came to visit him and ask him to come back to Ayodhya and rule. It is also believed that the Trinity of Gods, Lords Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva took incarnations here. The Chitrakoot mountain range has numerous places of great religious importance like the Bharat Milap Temple, the Hanuman Dhara, Janki Kund and more. Chitrakoot is also where Goswami Tulsidas, author of the Ramcharitmanas, spent many years. And Chitrakoot is also home to the only university in the world specially made for the differently-abled, the Jagadguru Rambhadracharya Handicapped University.
Kamadgiri is a forested hill with the base surrounded by temples on all sides and is considered to be the heart of Chitrakoot. Pilgrims perform a Parikrama or a circumbulation around the hill with the belief that their sorrows will end and wishes come true. Kamadgiri is derived from Kamadnathji, another name for Lord Rama and it means a fulfiller of wishes. There are several temples on the 5 km path of the parikrama, with the most famous being the Bharat Milaap temple, where Bharat met Lord Ram and convinced him to come back to his kingdom. Some parts of Kamadgiri Mountain falls in Uttar Pradesh, while the others in Madhya Pradesh. The mountain sees a throng of devotees during the Chaitra month, the first month of the Hindu calendar, about mid-march to mid-April due to the Ram Navami festival and during Diwali. There is a grand fair held every month on the full moon day or Amavasya. The best time to visit is during the winter months as during summer, the red stones become too hot to walk around for the parikrama.
Hanuman Dhara is the name of the spring which sprouted from a rock when Lord Rama shot an arrow into it to calm down and enraged Lord Hanuman when he came to this place to extinguish the fire that was caught in his tail after he returned from burning Lanka. There is statue of Lord Hanuman here and the stream of water falls on the statue releasing in a kund or pond. There also also langurs in the area, mammals associated with Lord Hanuman, the monkey God.
The Sati Anusuya temple is dedicated to Anusuya where legend says that she sprinkled some special water over the holy trinity Lords Brahma, Vishnu and Maheshwar and this led to their incarnations. It is also said that Anusuya was dedicated in praising the Gods to end a famine in the area and thus the town was blessed with the river Mandakini.
Sphatik Shila has two massive rocks believed to have the footprints of Lord Rama and Goddess Sita. Sphatik Shila which means a crystal rock is located amidst dense forests, close to Janki Kund on the banks of the river Mandakini. It is said that Goddess Sita and Lord Rama were relaxing here and a crow pecked the feet of goddess Sita which agitated Lord Rama and he took off the eyes of the crow, But the crow was actually a form of Jayant, the son of Lord Indra.
Believed to the place of the meeting of the four brothers during Lord Rama’s period of exile, the Bharat Milaap Temple is very important temple in Chitrakoot. Located along the parikrama of Kamadgiri, a visit to this temple is a must where one can see the footprints of Lord Rama and his family. A small temple along with a well, Bharat Kup is located few km from Chitrakoot and it is believed that it was here that Bharat stored water from all pilgrimage places in India.
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The Gupt Godavari is a pair of caves in which there is a tiny entrance, through which one can barely pass. Water trickles down in streams through the other cave, which can rise up to the length of the knees. It is said that Lord Rama and Lord Lakshman once held their secret meetings here, which is validated apparently by the throne like structures present in the cave. Marpha located 4 km from the Gupt Godavari caves is famous for its natural beauty, temples and the ruins of a Chandel fort.
Rajapur is a small town about 40 km from Chitrakoot and is famous because it is the birthplace of Goswami Tulsidas, the author of the Sri Ramcharit Manas and the Hanuman Chalisa. A small temple dedicated to Tulsidas on the banks of the Yamuna river is present here and is the main attraction of this place. At the temple, one can still see many scriptures in the handwriting of the author and excerpts of the Ramcharit Manas are present here.
Located just 11 km on the Karvi-Devangana Road, the Ganesh Bagh is an architecturally beautiful temple where a baoli or well with seven storeys and ruins of a palace exist. The whole complex was built by Peshwa Vinayak Rao in the 1880s as a summer retreat and is also known locally as mini-Khajuraho.
Ram Ghat is a serene ghat on the banks of the Mandakini River where Lord Rama, Goddess Sita and Lord Lakshman appeared in front of the famous poet Tulsidas and where he sat on the riverside and write the Ramcharitra Manas. Ram Ghat is the centre of all religious activities in the town and the most popular bathing ghat where it is believed that taking a dip here would absolve a person of all sins. One can go for a boat ride in the river and watch the aarti which takes place at 6:30 pm every day. The ideal cost of a boat ride is around INR 150-200 and so visitors commanded by touts demanding more should be more aware.
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Janki Kund is situated along the banks of the Mandakini river and it is believed to be where Goddess Sita used to bathe during the period of exile. One can also see some footprints by the riverside which many believe are hers.
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Vindhyachal
Vindhyachal is a Hindu pilgrimage site on the banks of the river Ganga. The town is famous for the temple of Vindhyavasini, the daughter of Yashoda and Nanda, who according to the Markandeya Purana had incarnated to kill the demon Mahishasura. The Indian Standard Time (IST) line passes through the Vindhyachal railway station. Located about 172 km east of Chitrakoot and 64 km west of Varanasi, the temple is a shakti peeth and town are visited in large numbers of devotees daily.
There are several temples of other deities in the vicinity, the most famous ones being the Ashtabhuja Devi Temple and the Kalikhoh Temple. There is a parikrama or circumambulation which forms a Trikona Parikrama or a triangular circumambulation which is a common ritual here. The temples are the Maa Vindhyavasini Devi Temple, dedicated to Goddess Durga, the Kali Khoh temple, dedicated to Goddess Maha Kali and the Ashtabhuja temple, dedicated to Goddess Maha Saraswati.
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The Vindhyavasini Devi Temple is what makes Vindhyachal famous is situated on the banks of the river Ganga. Goddess Vindhyavasini is believed to be an instant bestower of benediction and is one of the most revered Siddha Peeths of the presiding deity, Vindhyavasini Devi. The temple is visited by large number of people daily with large congregations held during Navratras in the month of Chaitra in April and Ashwin in October. Kajali competitions are held in the month of Jyestha or June.
Kali Khoh temple is dedicated to Goddess Kali and is in the form of a cave. Goddess Kali is believed to be incarnated to kill the demon Raktabeej who had a boon that every droplet of his blood will give birth to another Raktabeej right away. This made killing the demon extremely difficult. It is believed that Ma Kali stretched her tongue all over the ground and licked all the blood and swallowed all his duplicates. This temple is just 2 km from the Vindhyavasini Devi temple.
The Ashtabhuja Temple is dedicated to Goddess Saraswati who is associated with literature and knowledge or vidya. Ashtabhuja who is Lord Krishna’s sister, had been escaping king Kansa’s trap who tried to kill her and finally found shelter here.
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The Kankali Devi temple gets its name from Kankal which means a skeleton and Maa Kali. It is said that when Asuri sena or demon army attacked Maa Durga known for her calm and smiling face, she turned into Ma Kali due to fury and agitation and held their heads. Her anger was so extreme that the whole body dried up and only the skeleton remained.
Sita Kund is where, according to legend, is where Lord Lakshmana pierced an arrow in the ground to draw water in the form of a fountain for Goddess Sits when she was thirsty.
Ram Gaya Ghat which is at a distance of about 2 km from Vindhyachal is believed to be where Lord Ram offered prayers for the attainment of peace for his dead fathers soul.
Varanasi on the banks of the river Ganges is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Also known as Benares, it lies about 64 km east of Vidhyachal and about 322 km south of Lucknow. A major religious hub in India, it is the holiest of the seven sacred cities in Hinduism and Jainism, and played an important role in the development of Buddhism and Ravidassia. Varanasi grew as an important industrial centre famous for its muslin and silk fabrics, perfumes, ivory works, and sculpture. Buddha is believed to have founded Buddhism here around 528 BC when he gave his first sermon, The Setting in Motion of the Wheel of Dharma, at nearby Sarnath. The city’s religious importance continued to grow in the 8th century, when Adi Shankara established the worship of Shiva as an official sect of Varanasi. During the Muslim rule through the Middle Ages, the city continued as an important centre of Hindu devotion, pilgrimage, mysticism and poetry which further contributed to its reputation as a centre of cultural importance and religious education. Tulsidas wrote his epic poem on Rama’s life called Ram Charit Manas in Varanasi. Several other major figures of the Bhakti movement were born in Varanasi, including Kabir and Ravidas. The Sikh guru, Guru Nanak visited Varanasi for Maha Shivaratri in 1507, a trip that played a large role in the founding of Sikhism.
Chandradeva, founder of the Gahadavala dynasty made Banaras a second capital in 1090 and after fall of the Pala Empire, the Chero dynasty ruled Varanasi till the Mughal rule. In the 16th century, Varanasi had a cultural revival under the Mughal emperor Akbar who patronised the city, and built two large temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. In 1656, the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb ordered the destruction of many temples and the building of mosques, causing the city to experience a temporary setback. However, after Aurangzeb’s death, most of India was ruled by a confederacy of pro-Hindu kings and much of modern Varanasi was built during this time, especially during the 18th century by the Maratha and Bhumihar Brahmin rulers. The kings governing Varanasi continued to wield power and importance through much of the British Raj period right up to India’s independence in 1947 when the kingdom of Benaras was ceded to the Union of India.
Traditional etymology links Varanasi to the names of the two Ganges tributaries forming the city’s borders: Varuna, still flowing in northern Varanasi, and Assi, today a small stream in the southern part of the city, near the Assi Ghat. The old city is located on the north shores of the Ganges, bounded by Varuna and Assi. In the Rigveda, the city is referred to as Kasi or Kashi from the Sanskrit verbal root kas which means to shine, making it known as the City of Light. The name was also used by pilgrims dating from the Buddha’s days. According to Hindu mythology, Varanasi was founded by Lord Shiva. During a fight between Brahma and Shiva, one of Brahma’s five heads was torn off by Shiva and as was the custom, the victor carried the slain adversary’s head in his hand and let it hang down from his hand as an act of ignominy, and a sign of his own bravery and also put a bridle into the mouth, dishonouring Lord Brahma’s head, and kept it with him at all times. When he came to the city of Varanasi in this state, the hanging head of Lord Brahma dropped from Lord Shiva’s hand and disappeared in the ground. Varanasi is therefore considered an extremely holy site.
Closely associated with the Ganges, Hindus believe that dying here and getting cremated along the banks of the holy Ganges allows one to break the cycle of rebirth and attain salvation. Kashi Naresh or the King of Kashi is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi, and an essential part of all religious celebrations. Varanasi was also where the Benares gharana form of Hindustani classical music was developed and it is also home to one of Asia’s largest residential universities, Banaras Hindu University or BHU. Excavations in 2014 led to the discovery of artefacts dating back to 800 BC with further excavations at Aktha and Ramnagar unearthing artefacts dating back to 1800 BC, supporting the view that the area was inhabited by that time.
Situated on the western bank of the Ganga, the Kashi Vishwanath Temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas or temples dedicated to Lord Shiva. The main deity of Kashi Vishwanath Temple is Lord Shiva, also known as Vishwanatha or Vishweshwarar meaning the ruler of the universe. The temple has 800 kg of gold plating on its tower. The very first mention of the temple can be found in the Puranas including the Kashi Khanda section of the Skanda Purana. The temple has seen complete annihilation and rebuilding many times with the first time in 1194 by Qutb-ud-din Aibak’s army when he defeated the King of Kannauj. The temple was rebuilt during the rule of Delhi’s Iltutmish and was demolished again during Sikander Lodhi’s time. Raja Man Singh rebuilt the temple during Mughal Emperor Akbar’s rule and in 1669, Emperor Aurangzeb destroyed the temple and built the Gyanvapi Mosque in its place. The temple was finally rebuilt in 1780 by Maharani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore and comprises of two domes covered in gold donated by the Sikh King Ranjit Singh, while the Bhosales of Nagpur donated silver to the temple.
The Kashi Vishwanath Temple is a collection of smaller shrines that are located in the temple complex with the main temple constructed in the form of a quadrangle and surrounded by the shrines dedicated to other deities. Made out of black stone, the main Shivalinga is 60 cm tall and 90 cm in circumference and is enshrined in a silver altar. A holy well, Gyaan Vapi here is believed to be where the Shivalinga was hidden to protect it from foreign invaders. This well is only accessible to Hindus. The structure of the temple is composed of three parts with the first part a spire, the second, a golden dome and the third a gold spire atop the temple carrying a flag and a trident. On the outside, the temple is adorned with intricate carvings. It is widely believed that a visit to the temple followed by a dip in the Ganges is the way to attain liberation or moksha and another belief states that Lord Shiva himself whispers the mantras of salvation into the ears of the people who die naturally at the temple.
In ancient times, on special occasions, the King of Kashi or Kashi Naresh used to pray first when the temple was closed to devotees who could only enter the temple after the king had finished his prayers. Today, devotees must follow a strict dress code of sarees for women and a dhoti and kurta for men, especially if they want to pray within the sanctum sanctorum. Devotees dressed otherwise will be allowed to worship the deity outside the sanctum sanctorum. Cameras, mobile phones and other electronic devices are not allowed inside and must be deposited in lockers outside. Foreigners can enter from Gate number 2 from where they can walk past. The temple’s Mangala Aarti takes place between 3 – 4 am and there are other aartis throughout the day with the last one, the Shayana Aarti taking place between 10:30 to 11 pm.
The Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple is situated by the Assi river and was built in the 1900s by Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya and is dedicated to Lord Rama and Lord Hanuman. Everyone visiting the city does not fail to visit this temple. The laddoo offered at this temple as an offering is amous among the locals and one needs to be aware of the monkeys who throng the temple premises and try to steal away the offerings, but are said to be harmless.
The New Vishwanath Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva on the premises of the Banaras Hindu University. The temple also consists of nine other temples within it incorporating elements from the Hindu cosmos. The foundation of the temple was laid down in 1931 and the temple was completed in 1966. The path leading to the temple is lined with dense trees and offers marvellous views of the architecture with each part of the temple designed intricately including the balconies, pavilions and spires. Several sculptures of various animals like the bull, crocodile, lion and are dotted in the area of the temple. The richly decorated hall has pillars and is mostly made of lambent marble and stands at 77 meters high. Its tower, the shikhara, are said to the tallest in the world with the Bhagavad Gita and other scriptures, are engraved in the marble walls and the idol of Lord Shiva rests on the upper floor in a marble room with the balcony on the upper floor offering a beautiful view. The temple opens early at 2:30 am for the Mangala Aarti and devotees with tickets can pray between 3 and 4 am and then open to the general public from 4 to 11 am and then again between 12 noon and 7 pm and again at 9 pm when the lord can only be viewed from the outside. The last aarti is the Shayana Aarti which starts at 10:30 pm and then the temple is closed at 11 pm.
Constructed in 1964, the Tulsi Manasa Temple is dedicated to Lord Rama and is named after the saint poet Tulsidas. It displays the Shikhara style of architecture and exhibits various inscriptions from the Ram Charit Manas on the walls of the temple. Various episodes of Ramayana have also been depicted on the upper storey of the temple in the form of carvings. The temple is a must visit during the months of Saawan which happens in July – August when it opens up a special display of puppets, related to the Ramayana, and is a wonderful experience.
Located near the Durga Ghat on the banks of the Ganga, the Durga Temple was built in the 18th century and houses an imposing idol of Goddess Durga and is one of the main temples in Varanasi.
One of the oldest temples in the city, the Nepali Temple is a 19th century shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. It was established by the King of Nepal and is a spitting image of the Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu. The architecture of the temple is traditional and is made of stone, terracotta and wood carvings.
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Famous for being a place of worship for the aghoris and tantriks, the Batuk Bhairav Mandir is dedicated to Batuk Bhairav, an incarnation of Lord Shiva. An interesting feature of the temple is the sacred Akhand Deep which is believed to be burning for ages with the oil from this lamp said to have healing powers.
The Bharat Mata Mandir is a unique shrine dedicated to the country in the incarnation of Mother India. The temple does not have any deity, but a relief map of the country carved in marble. The brainchild of Babu Shiv Prasad Gupta, a freedom fighter, the temple was built in 1936 and inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi and is the only one dedicated to a country in the world.
The Ganga Aarti is an important ritual held every morning and evening on the banks of the Ganga. priests perform the Aarti at the Dashashwamedh Ghat and the entire ghat is illuminated. The ritual involves huge brass lamps lit with oil with the priests chanting holy mantras.
The Gyan Vapi Well is a sacred well located inside the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. The water of the well was considered to be holier than the water of the River Ganga before it was polluted by offerings made by pilgrims. It is said that when Emperor Aurangzeb attacked the old temple, the temple priest threw the Shivalinga into the well and jumped inside to protect it.
Alamgir Mosque is a 17th century structure built by the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, on land which once had a Shiva Temple and was demolished by him. The mosque is an architecturally stunning building built according to the Indo-Islamic style of architecture with beautiful minarets and high domes.
St. Mary’s Church is 200 years old, the oldest church in the town and the oldest standing garrison church in South Asia. Established in 1810 by Reverend George Weatly, the church was an important part of the European and British community in Varanasi.
It is believed that the Dashashwamedh Ghat was where Lord Brahma performed the Dasa Ashwamedha sacrifice. A visit during Kartik Purnima, about November/December, is when the Ghat is lit up for the Dev Diwali festivities. The Ghat is famous for the Ganga Aarti conducted every evening, with thousands visiting it daily.
The Assi Ghat is located at the confluence of the Rivers Assi and Ganga and is famous for the large Shiva Lingam installed under a peepal or sacred fig tree. It has immense religious importance and has been mentioned in the Puranas and various legends. The ghat is the heart of Varanasi and has amazing views of the sunset and sunrise over the Ganges. The Ghat has started a morning aarti which is a must watch. According to an ancient legend, Assi Ghat came about when Goddess Durga threw her sword in the river after killing a demon and the spot where she stood became the ghat. Subah-e-Benaras is a unique programme started on 24 November 2014 where people gather at Assi Ghat early in the morning to witness the sunrise and a boat ride tour. In the summer months, this programme takes place from 5 to 7 am and during winters, from 5:40 to 7:30 am. At the ghat, Mahashivatri is celebrated in a grand scale when thousands gather to perform a pooja and take a dip in the Ganga. The Ganga Mahotsav is organised in the Ghat from Prabodhni Ekadashi till Dev Deepawali, a mega three-day celebration with pujas and rituals and classical music performances. On the day of Ganga Dussehra, celebrated on the tenth day of Jayeshtha, which is peak summer, so about May, when devotees observe a fast, perform rituals and pujas at the ghat and the take a dip in the Ganges. The ghat is lit up with fairs, people singing devotional songs and floating lamps in the river. On Dev Deepawali, on all the ghats, lit clay lamps are flated in the river.
Kedar Ghat is one of the oldest ghats in Varanasi and is considered cleaner for bathing and offering prayers to Lord Shiva at the Kedareshwar Temple. The Shivala Ghat has a number of historic monuments around. The mansion of the King of Nepal, is located next to the Ghat, also is the Chet Singh Fortress with stunning views of the river from the ghat. Built by Maharaja Mann Singh of Jaipur in the early 17th century, the Manmandir Ghat is famous for the palace built by him and an observatory built in 1710 by Savai Jaisingh II. On the northern side of the Ghat is a stone balcony from where visitors can get a beautiful view of River Ganga. Manikarnika Ghat is considered as a gateway to the next and it is believed that spending the last few days of life at the ghat and completing the rituals of cremation here will ensure a painless passing and also a way to attain freedom from the endless cycle of birth and death.
Vindham Waterfalls is a gorgeous waterfall in Mirzapur about 90 kms from Varanasi close to the Tanda fountains, caves and temples and is local favourite picnic spot. The Lakhaniya Dari Waterfall is situated around 48 kms from Varanasi in Latifpur and are a hidden gem from the din and chaos of the city. It is especially popular among trekkers and adventure enthusiasts with the falls reached through a small trek in the hills. The Rajdari Waterfalls are located in Chandauli, 60 kms from Varanasi. The beautiful waterfalls are a popular picnic spot and the huge waterfall gushing down the cliffs are a visual delight with the top of the falls offering beautiful views of the valley below. The Devdari Waterfall located about 65 kms from Varanasi is a beautiful spot with cascading silvery water amidst lush green surroundings. Falling down a height of 58 metres, the waterfalls are a popular tourist spot. The Mukkha Falls are situated 60 kms from Varanasi and are in close proximity to the Lakhaniya Cave Paintings and look their best during the monsoon. Tanda Falls, 80 km from Varanasi comes alive during the monsoons when the gushing waterfalls is sparkling and in full glory.
Located on the eastern banks of the river Ganga, opposite Tulsi Ghat, Ramnagar Fort is a stunning 18th century historical monument built by Raja Balwant Singh in 1750 according to the Mughal style of architecture. The current King of Benaras, currently resides in the Fort. The fort features carved balconies, open courtyards, and scenic pavilions.
Chunar Fort is an 11th century fort with a part extending on the rocky and uneven banks of the River Ganga. The fort is a stunning structure to explore with an aesthetic appeal that draws in tourists.
Located about 44 km from Varanasi, Sita Samahit Sthal is a temple and popular pilgrimage spot. Dedicated to Goddess Sita, the temple is said to hold mythical as well as historical importance. It is believed that the temple is where Goddess Sita descended into the earth. The temple premises also houses a 110 feet high statue of Lord Hanuman as well as a quaint pond surrounding the temple. It is believed that the present-day temple is built at the spot where Sita spent her exile with Sage Valmiki in the forest and where she gave birth to her twin sons, Luv and Kush.
Established by Madan Mohan Malviya in 1916, Banaras Hindu University is a 5.3 sq. km campus with about 30,000 students residing in campus and is the largest residential university on the continent. With many notable alumni, the Indo-Gothic architecture and sprawling lawns add to the beauty of the place.
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An archaeological and art museum, the Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum exhibits a beautiful collection of over 100,000 sculptures, artefacts, paintings, jewellery, pottery, miniature paintings, manuscripts and textiles ranging from the 1st to the 15th centuries.
The Chandra Prabha Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as Chandraprabha, is located about 70 km south of Varanasi and is filled with beautiful picnic spots, dense forests, and scenic waterfalls. Spread over an area of 78 sq km and lying on the Naugarh and Vijaigarh hillocks on the north slope of the Kaimur Range, with the Karamnasha River, a tributary of the Ganges, and the Chandraprabha River, a tributary of the Karamnasha flowing through the sanctuary, the area was made a hunting preserve for the rulers of Benares in the second half of the 18th century and the wildlife sanctuary was established in May 1957. Asiatic lions were introduced at Chandra Prabha in 1958 with the numbers increasing from three to eleven by 1969. However, the following year the lions were found missing. A variety of wild animals are found here including blackbucks, chital, sambar, nilgai, wild boar, porcupine and chinkara. The park is a bird watcher’s paradise, as one can see around 150 species of birds.
Located 10 km north-east of Varanasi, near the confluence of the Ganga and the Varuna rivers, Sarnath was variously known as as Mrigadava, Migadāya, Rishipattana and Isipatana throughout its history. The Deer Park in Sarnath is where Gautama Buddha first taught the Dharma, and where the Buddhist Sangha came into existence through the enlightenment of Kondanna. Singhpur, a village approximately one km from Sarnath, was the birthplace of Shreyansanath, the eleventh Tirthankara of Jainism with a temple dedicated to him an important pilgrimage site. As Isipatana, Sarnath is mentioned by the Buddha as one of the four places of pilgrimage his devout followers should visit. It was also the site of the Buddha’s Dhammacakkappavattana Sutta, which was his first sermon after attaining enlightenment, in which he explained the four noble truths and the teachings associated with them.
According to legend, when the Buddha-to-be was born, some devas came down to announce it to 500 rishis. Another explanation for the name is that Isipatana was named because, sages, on their way from the Himalayas through the air, alight here or start from here on their aerial flight. Pacceka Buddhas, having spent seven days in contemplation in the Gandhamādana, bathe in the Anotatta Lake and come to the habitations of men through the air, in search of alms. Sarnath derives from the Sanskrit Saranganatha, which means the Lord of the Deer, and relates to another old Buddhist story in which the Bodhisattva is a deer and offers his life to a king instead of the doe the latter is planning to kill. The king is so moved that he creates the park as a sanctuary for deer. That park is still in use today.
Revered for being spot or Rishipattana where Lord Buddha revealed his first eightfold path sermon, the Dhamek Stupa is the main stupa in Sarnath. King Ashoka renovated the existing pre-Buddhism structure in the 3rd century BC and the cylindrical stupa is made entirely out of bricks with a diameter of 28 metres. Elaborate murals, wall carvings and a small museum after the entrance provide insights into the monument’s details and the Buddha’s teachings. Halfway across Dhamek Stupa, there are arched niches and dilapidated statues of the. There is a daily light and sound show at 6 pm. Entry tickets to the stupa are INR 20 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners and the stupa is open from 6 am to 5 pm daily.
The Sarnath Archaeological Site is where the Buddha began to preach his sermons and is built around the main Dhamek Stupa and its gardens. It is also home to the legendary lion memorial pillar built by King Ashoka, the current Indian national emblem, both of which are maintained by the ASI as well as the Sarnath Museum across the road. Over the centuries, various Buddhist kings have added small and large temples built with exceptionally well-preserved Chunar sandstone. Buddhist monks would worship the exquisite statue of the seated Buddha, the first idol ever built. When villagers started stealing bricks and stones from this seemingly endless source, British officials protected the area in 1904. The Archaeological Site is open from 8 am to 6 pm daily and has an entry fee of INR 20 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners.
The Chaukhandi Stupa is regarded as one of the most important monuments of Buddhism. Built where the Buddha first met his five ascetics, to whom he later went on to preach his first teachings, the stupa is an evolution over burial mounds and serves as a shrine. It is widely believed that during the Gupta Period between the 4th and 6th centuries, the Chaukhandi Stupa was actually built as a terraced temple and most historians believe that Emperor Ashoka built this square edifice. Later, Prince Govardhan, the son of the then reigning king, erected an octagonal Mughal tower surrounding the square edifice of the stupa to its present form in honour of a visit of Emperor Humayun. But historians argue it was, in fact, Emperor Akbar who built the octagonal tower in 1585 to commemorate Emperor Humayun’s visit to the shrine. The Chaukhandi Stupa is mainly built of brick and is quite fragile and is now in the hands of the Archaeological Survey of India. Named after its shape, the stupa is a square edifice which stands on a basement that consists of three terraces, each 12 feet broad and 12 feet high. The overall height of the structure is about 200 feet with the core of the structure made of solid brickwork in clay mortar, and the terraces supported on rows of hollow cells, standing on a rectangular plinth and surrounded by a mighty octagonal tower. The Chaukhandi Stupa is open from 6 am to 5 pm with Indians paying INR 5 and foreigners INR 100. Children below the age of 15 can enter free.
The Mahabodhi Society Temple is an ancient temple, built in the Gupta period entirely out of bricks. It is said that this is where the Buddha attained enlightenment. When the monk, Dharmapala from Sri Lanka encountered the dilapidated condition of the temple, he campaigned to collect funds and revive the temple which was built next to the archaeological site, a replica of the original shrine. Japanese artists were hired to paint the walls and frescoes and Dharmapala collected some ashes of the Buddha, preserved in Myanmar, and stored it at the temple. Propagated from Gaya to Sri Lanka and back to Sarnath, the Mahabodhi tree at this temple is revered as a relic of the Buddha himself.
The national emblem of India and a mark of Emperor Ashoka’s visit to Sarnath, the Ashoka Pillar is an impressive structure with four lions at the top. This 50 m long pillar along with the Dhamek Stupa, are Emperor Ashoka’s gifts with the complex filled with lush greenery. India’s oldest archaeological museum has been built at the periphery of the complex. A bull, a lion, an elephant and a horse are depicted on the base of the Ashoka Pillar which symbolises the four different phases of Gautam Buddha’s life. There are also prayer wheels in the compound with beautiful carvings of Om Mani Padme Hum in Sanskrit. The graphic representation of the Ashoka Pillar and the words ‘Satyamev Jayate’ written below in Devanagari have been adopted as the official Emblem of India. The Ashoka Pillar is only a part of the Ashokan Pillar which comprises of three parts with four lions sitting on the top of Ashoka Chakra. The Ashoka Chakra, the wheel of which is also a part of the national flag of India contains four wheels on different directions with four different animals between them. The Ashoka Chakra rests on an inverted lotus which is the second part of the pillar. These two are collectively known as the Ashoka’s Lion Capital or more commonly as The Capital. The Capital of the Ashokan Pillar at Sarnath is broken but is one the displays at the Archaeological Museum. The drum on which four animals are carved represent the four cardinal directions with the horse representing the west, the ox, the east, the elephant, the south, and the lion, north. The animals following one another signify the wheel of existence with the lotus, also the base, is a symbol of Buddhism. The Pillar is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days except Fridays when it is closed. Entry fee is INR 5 for adults.
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The Thai Temple displays the That style of architecture and is is set amongst beautiful gardens and managed by Thai Buddhist monks. The Tibetan Temple has been decorated with Thangkas, Tibetan Buddhist paintings and features a statue of Shakyamuni, the Buddha. The Prayer Wheels seen outside, which on being rotated clockwise, release paper scrolls with prayers written on them. The temple was where Lord Buddha taught his disciples the four truths of life. The Chinese Temple is a colourful shrine dedicated to Lord Buddha and built according to the Chinese and Buddhist architectural style. The temple has a spacious meditation hall where visitors can meditate in silence.
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Established in 1910, the Archaeological Museum displays a small collection of artefacts ranging from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century AD. The museum at Sarnath is the oldest museum under Archeological Survey of India. With more than six thousand sculptures and artworks, the museum was completed in 1910. Similar to a monastery in structure, the massive complex has five different galleries showcasing artefacts from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century AD. The Lion Capital of Ashoka is displayed right at the centre of the entrance hall and is also called the Shakyasimha gallery. A huge Bodhisattva built of red sandstone and several portraits of Lord Buddha are on display. The entrance south to the Shakyasimha gallery is the Triratna exhibiting several associated objects with Lord Buddha ranging from images of Stupas to intricate inscriptions. The Tathagata Gallery has Lord Buddha in his different moods and attitudes and the caricature of Lord Shiva with a cup of poison beside him. The Trimurti gallery is named after the three supreme gods, Lords Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh and houses images of them along with figures of birds and heads of males and females. There are two verandahs in the south and north side of the museum with architectural pieces on display. The northern verandah has carvings of fauna and flora with sculptures of Gods and Goddesses while the south verandah has stones, lintels, pedestals, and faces on display.
An important Buddhist pilgrimage site and an international Buddhist pilgrimage centre, Kushinagar is where Buddhists believe Gautama Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana after his death. Located about 230 km northeast of Sarnath and 55 km west of Gorakhpur, Kushinagar was the capital of the Kosala Kingdom according to one theory and according to the Ramayana was built by King Kush, the son of Lord Rama. According to Buddhist tradition Kushavati was named prior to the King Kush and is supposed to be due to an abundance of the Kush grass found in this region. The present day Kushinagar is identified with Kusavati in the pre-Buddha period and Kushinara in the post-Buddha period. Kushinara was the capital of Mallas, one of the sixteen mahajanpads of the 6th century BC. Since then, it remained an integral part of the erstwhile empires of Maurya, Shunga, Kushana, Gupta, Harsha, and Pala dynasties. In the medieval period, Kushinagar passed under the suzerainty of the Kultury kings and continued to be a living city till the 12th century, after which it was lost into oblivion. Modern Kushinagar came into prominence in the 19th century with archaeological excavations carried out which exposed the main stupa and also discovered a 6.10 meters long statue of the reclining Buddha in 1876. Excavations continued in the early 20th century, uncovering a wealth of Buddhist materials. Chandra Swami, a Burmese monk, came to India in 1903 and made the Mahaparinirvana Temple into a living shrine. It is believed that Lord Buddha died in Kushinagar after which Emperor Ashoka built a stupa here to mark the parinirvana site. The stupa houses the reclining nirvana statue of Buddha which depicts the “dying Buddha” reclining of the right side. Other places of prominence here include Nirvana Chaitya, Rambhar Stupa, and Matha Kuar Shrine apart from some tiny temples.
The reclining Nirvana statue of the Buddha is inside the Parinirvana Stupa. The statue is 6.10 metres long and is made of monolith red sandstone. It represents the Dying Buddha reclining on his right side with his face towards the west. It is placed on a large brick pedestal with stone-posts at the corners. The Nirvana Chaitya or Main Stupa is located just behind the Main Parinirvana Temple. It was excavated by Carlleyle in 1876 and during excavations, a copper plate was found, which contained the text of the Nidana-Sutra which concluded the statement that plate had been deposited in the Nirvana-Chaitya by one Haribala, who also installed the great Nirvana Statue of Buddha in the temple front. The Ramabhar Stupa, also called a Mukutbandhan-Chaitya, is the cremation place of Buddha, 1.5 km east of the main Nirvana Temple. The Matha Kuar Shrine has a colossal statue of Buddha installed, carved out of single block which represents Buddha seated under the Bodhi Tree in a pose known as Bhumi Sparsh Mudra or the earth touching attitude. The inscription at the base of statue is dated to the 10th or 11th century. The Wat Thai Temple is also known as the Wat Thai Kushinara Chalermaraj Temple and is a place of worship established by the Thai Buddhist community with a distinct architecture. This unique temple features a beautiful garden, a fully functioning school, an extensive library and a monastery. Other major places include the Indo-Japan-Sri Lanka Temple which is a marvel of Buddhist architecture, the Meditation Park, located close to the Nirvana Temple with lush greenery and flowers to create a peaceful environment, several museums, meditation parks and temples based on the architecture of various countries as well as ruins and brick structures located around the main Nirvana Temple and Main Stupa which are the remains of various monasteries of different sizes constructed when the town was thriving.
This ends the series on Uttar Pradesh, one of the longest I’ve done. But the state is filled with so much to offer visitors that it is definitely one of the places I want to visit.
Memories and Such 
