Travel Bucket List: India – Uttar Pradesh Part 1

Posted on August 18, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

After the beautiful islands of Lakshadweep, we make our way up north to India’s largest and most populous state, Uttar Pradesh. Its name meaning Northern Province, Uttar Pradesh with over 200 million inhabitants, is the most populous state in India as well as the most populous country subdivision in the world. Created on 1 April 1937 as the United Provinces of Agra and Oudh during the British colonial rule, the state was renamed Uttar Pradesh in 1950, with the acronym UP. Lucknow is the state capital and Allahabad the judicial capital. On 9 November 2000, a new state, Uttaranchal, now Uttarakhand, was carved from the state’s Himalayan hill region. The two major rivers of the state, the Ganges and Yamuna, join at Triveni Sangam in Allahabad and flow further east as Ganges.

The state is bordered by Rajasthan to the west, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and Delhi to the northwest, Uttarakhand and an international border with Nepal to the north, Bihar to the east, Madhya Pradesh to the south, and touches the states of Jharkhand and Chhattisgarh to the southeast. It is equal to 7.34% of India’s total area and is the fourth-largest Indian state by area and has the second-largest state economy. Hindus are the largest religious group, with three quarters of the state’s population Hindu and Islam is the next most widely practiced religion. Hindi is the most widely spoken language and also the official language of the state, along with Urdu. The state houses several holy Hindu temples and pilgrimage centres and has three World Heritage sites.

Modern human hunter-gatherers have been in Uttar Pradesh since between around 85,000 and 72,000 years ago. There have also been prehistorical finds here from the Middle and Upper Paleolithic eras dated to 21,000 – 31,000 years old and a Mesolithic/Microlithic hunter-gatherer settlement, near Pratapgarh, from around 10550–9550 BC. Villages with domesticated cattle, sheep, and goats and evidence of agriculture began as early as 6000 BC, and gradually developed between 4000 and 1500 BC beginning with the Indus Valley Civilisation and Harappa Culture to the Vedic period and extending into the Iron Age. Out of the sixteen mahajanapadas or great realms or oligarchic republics that existed in ancient India, seven fell entirely within the present-day boundaries of Uttar Pradesh. The divine king Rama of the epic, Ramayana reigned in Ayodhya, the capital of Kosala. Krishna, another divine king, who plays a key role in the Mahabharata and is revered as the eighth reincarnation or avatar of Lord Vishnu, is said to have been born in the city of Mathura. The aftermath of the great battle in the Mahabharata is believed to have taken place in the area between the Upper Doab and Delhi, in what was Kuru Mahajanapada, during the reign of the Pandava king Yudhishthira. The kingdom of the Kurus corresponds to the Black and Red Ware and Painted Gray Ware culture and the beginning of the Iron Age in northwest India, around 1000 BC.

Following the Huns’ invasions that broke the Gupta empire, the Ganges-Yamuna Doab saw the rise of Kannauj and it was during the reign of Harshavardhana between 590–647 that the Kannauj empire reached its zenith, spanning from Punjab in the north and Gujarat in the west to Bengal in the east and Odisha in the south and included parts of central India, north of the Narmada River and encompassed the entire Indo-Gangetic plain. Soon after Harshavardhana’s death, his empire disintegrated into many kingdoms, which were invaded and ruled by the Gurjara-Pratihara empire, which challenged Bengal’s Pala Empire for control of the region. Kannauj was several times invaded by the south Indian Rashtrakuta Dynasty, from the 8th to the 10th centuries and after the fall of the Pala empire, the Chero dynasty ruled from between the 12th and 18th centuries.

Parts or all of Uttar Pradesh were ruled by the Delhi Sultanate for 320 years, between 1206–1526. In the 16th century, Babur, a Timurid descendant of Timur and Genghis Khan from the Fergana Valley in modern-day Uzbekistan, swept across the Khyber Pass and founded the Mughal Empire, covering India, along with modern-day Afghanistan, Pakistan and Bangladesh. The Mughals were descended from Persianised Central Asian Turks with significant Mongol mix and in the Mughal era, Uttar Pradesh became the heartland of the empire. In the 18th century, after the fall of the Mughals, the power vacuum was filled by the Maratha Empire. In 1803-04, following the Second Anglo-Maratha War, when the British East India Company defeated the Maratha Empire, much of the region came under British suzerainty.

Starting from Bengal in the second half of the 18th century, a series of battles for north Indian lands finally gave the British East India Company accession over the state’s territories which was named the North-Western Provinces (of Agra). Although UP later became the fifth-largest state of India, NWPA was one of the smallest states of the British Indian empire and its capital was shifted twice between Agra and Allahabad. A serious rebellion erupted in various parts of North India, known as the Indian Rebellion of 1857 and after the revolt failed, the British divided the most rebellious regions by reorganising their administrative boundaries, splitting the Delhi region from NWFP of Agra and merging it with Punjab, while the Ajmer- Marwar region was merged with Rajputana and Oudh was incorporated into the state. The new state was called the North Western Provinces of Agra and Oudh, which in 1902 was renamed as the United Provinces of Agra and Oudh and was commonly referred to as the United Provinces or its acronym UP. In 1920, the capital of the province was shifted from Allahabad to Lucknow, but the high court continued to be at Allahabad, with a bench established at Lucknow. After India’s independence, the United Provinces were renamed Uttar Pradesh or the Northern Province, preserving UP as the acronym on 24 January 1950.

Roughly the same size as the United Kingdom, Uttar Pradesh is situated on the northern part of India and shares an international boundary with Nepal. The Himalayas border the state to the north, but the plains that cover most of the state are distinctly different from the high mountains with the larger Gangetic Plain region in the north and the smaller Vindhya Range and plateau region in the south. The state has more than 32 large and small rivers; of them, the Ganges, Yamuna, Saraswati, Sarayu, Betwa, and Ghaghara are larger and of religious importance.

Agriculture is the leading occupation in the state and plays a vital role in its economic development with wheat being the principal food crop and sugarcane the main commercial crop particularly in Western Uttar Pradesh with about 70% of India’s sugar coming from Uttar Pradesh. Meerut is known as the sports capital of India and is also a jewellery hub. Noida, Kanpur and Lucknow are becoming major hubs for the IT industry and Sonebhadra, a district in the eastern part of the state, has large-scale industries with its southern region known as the Energy Capital of India.

Unlike other states, instead of starting with the state capital of Lucknow and then moving to other cities, we will start from the west and move eastwards. Our first stop will therefore be Noida.

Noida
Noida which is short for New Okhla Industrial Development Authority, is a planned city and a satellite city of Delhi, about 25 km southeast of New Delhi and is part of the National Capital Region (NCR) of India. Located on the old river bed of the river Yamuna, Noida falls under it’s catchment area and came into administrative existence on 17 April 1976 as part of an urbanisation thrust in the seventies. With the highest per capita income in the whole National Capital Region, Noida is classified as a special economic zone and the Noida Authority is among the richest civic bodies in the country.

The Botanical Garden in Noida is a vast expanse of lush green garden packed with a plethora of plants Founded in 2002, the garden houses a primitive plant called Psilotum Nudum which means bare naked in Latin, said to be a descendant of probably one of the first group of vascular plants found 400 million years ago. Another ancient plant found here is the Equisetum Hyemale or Horsetail which is dated over 145 million years ago during Jurassic or Dinosaur era. Green roses, 250 varieties of medicinal plants and vast fruit section are some of the other plants the garden boasts of. A jogging track encircles the perimeter of the garden which encompasses an area of about 160 acres with over 7,500 varieties of plants, including several endangered species. The garden has been divided into 10 distinct sections which are further subdivided into smaller sections. The garden also houses a section of fruit plants and trees, namely mango, pomegranate, lemon, pear, plum, mulberry, and black guava. The major highlight of the garden is a huge map of India carved across an area of 68 x 61.4 ft with each state plants planted in their respective location. There is a Cactus House which is a small greenhouse with a variety of cacti. The garden is closed on weekends and on weekdays is open from 10 am to 5 pm and does not charge an entry fee.

Officially known as Shaheed Chandra Shekhar Azad Sanctuary, the Okhla Bird Sanctuary sprawls over an area of 3.5 sq km at the Okhla Barrage over the Yamuna River, at the point where the river enters Uttar Pradesh. The sanctuary was established in 1990 and is home to over 400 species of native birds and about 1,00,000 migratory birds, especially water birds. The most prominent feature of the sanctuary is the large lake created by damming the river. The bird species of thorny scrub, grassland and wetland are seen in the sanctuary. It is now one of the 466 IBAs (Important Bird Areas) in India. Two critically endangered species, nine vulnerable species and seven near threatened species can be seen in the sanctuary.

The Rashtriya Dalit Prerna Sthal & Green Garden is a memorial dedicated to inspirational people from the Dalit community who devoted their life to social justice and equality. The memorial expands over 80 acres of land on the banks of the River Yamuna and houses a museum, statues of the stalwarts and a serene green zone. It is a perfect attraction for those interested in anthropology and history.

The Shree Jagannath Temple in Noida is dedicated to Lord Jagannath. The construction of the temple was proposed in 2004 and the idol of the deity was installed in 2006 on the auspicious day of Akshaya Tritiya. The festival of the Ratha Yatra is celebrated every year at this temple.

The Buddha International circuit is the venue of the annual Indian grand prix. The race track is about 10 sq. km in area and was designed by German racetrack designer Hermann Tilke. One can book passes for any of the scheduled F1 races with passes ranging between INR 1,500 to INR 21,000

Loni
Our next stop is Loni, near Ghaziabad, about 34 km north of Noida. A lesser-known town Loni is of religious and historical significance. It was listed in the Ain-i-Akbari as a pargana under the Delhi empire and had a brick fort at that time. The town is connected to many Hindu mythological stories and there are many significant temples around the city. The name of the city is derived from the historic legend of King Lonnkaran who ruled this area and named his kingdom after himself. During the 12th century, Prithviraj Chauhan ruled the town. During the Mughal era, Zinat Mahal, the wife of Bahadur Shah Zafar built the three famous orchards. They are believed to be over 500 years old and are a major historical attraction in the city.

The Loni Fort is believed to have been where Lord Ram’s brother, Shatrugana killed the evil demon Lavansura. The fort which is ruins today is believed to have been in this state because of Mohammed Shah’s invasion in the 18th century. Apart from the spiritual sites, there is also the Lal Bagh Ashram and IdiraPuri Gurudwara. The town has the world’s largest LPG pipeline which is 1.270 km long and a must visit place. The April Park in Tronica City is filled with greenery. Tronica City is one of the city’s fast developing places which is a must-visit.

The remains of the three famous orchards Uldipur, Ranap and Kharanji Bagh, believed to be 500 years old should be visited. The Katu Shyam Baba Mandir, Loni Hanuman Mandir and Shiv Mandir are some places of holy significance in the city. At a distance of 13 k, from central Loni is the Shiv Temple. A massive flight of stairs reaches the sanctum and the view from the peak gives a one a view of the neighbourhood and town.

Ghaziabad
Our next stop is the city of Ghaziabad, about 23 km east of Loni and today part of the NCR as well as the administrative headquarters of the Ghaziabad district and the largest city in western Uttar Pradesh. Situated in the Upper Gangetic Plains, the city has two major divisions separated by the Hindon River, namely Trans-Hindon on the west and Cis-Hindon on the east.

The city of Ghaziabad was founded in 1740 AD by Ghazi-ud-Din, who served as a wazir in the court of the Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah, and named it Ghaziuddinnagar after himself, which was shortened to its present form with the opening of the railways in 1864. During the Mughal period, Ghaziabad and especially the banks of the Hindon, was a picnic spot for the Mughal royalty. With the completion of the Amritsar-Saharanpur-Ghaziabad line of the Sind, Punjab and Delhi Railway in 1870, Delhi was connected to Multan through Ghaziabad, and Ghaziabad became the junction of the East Indian Railway and Sind, Punjab and Delhi Railway. Ghaziabad, along with Meerut and Bulandshahr, remained one of the three Munsifis of the District, under the Meerut Civil Judgeship during most periods of the British Raj.

Although connected by railway since 1865, it was not until 1940 that the first modern industry appeared in Ghaziabad and the post-independence period was when industry really expanded.

The ISKCON Temple should definitely be visited if you are in Ghaziabad during the festival of Krishna Janmasthami. The temple houses various idols signifying Lord Krishna and his life. Although relatively smaller than other ISKCON temples, this temple has its intricate architecture. There is also a souvenir store and a multimedia museum based on the Indian epics the Ramayana and the Mahabharata in the premises. The fountain show in the evening is a major attraction and the temple is open between 4:30 am and 1 pm and then again between 4 and 8:30 pm.

The Lakshmi Narayan Temple located in Modinagar is dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi and Lord Vishnu. Also known as Modi Temple, it houses idols of Lord Hanuman, Goddess Santoshi Mata, Goddess Durga, Lord Venkateshwara, Lord Lakshmi Narayan and Goddess Gayatri. The temple was built in 1963 in the Kalinga-style out of red standstone and also houses two smaller temples dedicated to Goddess Durga and Lord Uma Maheshwar. The temple also hosts sacred relics such as a silver umbrella and a trident of Lord Shiva and has also has fountains and brass artefacts on its front courtyard embellished in white marble. It also hosts a vast Ramlila stage that hosts regular performances. The temple There are smaller holy sites within this temple such as the Sri Ram Darbar and the Yagyashala.

The Swarna Jayanti Park is a recreational and adventure park with a beautiful Japanese garden, a boating facility, a jogging track, walkways lined by tall green trees and a children’s play area amidst lush green lawns with fountains and statues of legendary figures. There are some mini food stalls offering snacks and juices. The park has an entry fee of INR 10 per person.

The City Forest is a splendid park spreading over 175 acres and a local favourite . A graded local picnic spot, the park contains two lakes, five acres and three acres each of which are a water reserve and a wetland respectively. Divided into 9 different sections, the forest is lined with an array of medicinal and fruit-bearing trees. The forest park encompasses a deer park, a bamboo park, walking and hiking trails, cycling tracks, horse riding facility and guided Gypsy or Jeep Tours. The forest also hosts spaces for booked events and sports such as tennis and softball. In addition to a children’s playground, the park also has other leisure activities such as bungee jumping, toy train ride, occasional camel rides and an adventure camp. The forest park is open between 7 am and 7 pm and has an entry fee of INR 10.

Mohan Nagar is a bustling area famous for the Institute of Technology and Science and the beautiful Mohan Nagar Temple dedicated to Goddess Durga. A couple of km from Mohan Nagar is a site of an ancient civilisation located on the banks of the River Hindon dating back to approximately 2500 BC.

Dasna is a quaint little town on the outskirts of Ghaziabad believed to have been established by a Rajput Ruler, King Salarsri. It is believed that the king was suffering from leprosy and was mesmerised by the beauty of the location when he had come to the sacred ghats of the River Ganges for his treatment. He ended up building a fort for himself on the banks of the river. The town was later captured by Ahmad Shah Abdali who destroyed it in 1760.

Modinagar is a small town, close to Ghaziabad, famous as an educational hub and is among the pioneer sugar producers in Uttar Pradesh. The most popular attraction in Modi Nagar is the Laxmi Narayan Temple, also known as the Modi Temple. Earlier known as Begumabad, it is believed to have been founded and ruled by Nawab Zafar Ali. The village is named after Gujarmal Modi who established a Sugar Mill in 1933, thus claiming the land. Begumabad was further changed to Modinagar during colonial India, along with honouring Gujarmal Modi with the title of Raja Bahadur.

Dadri is a small town near Ghaziabad with the tiny hamlet popular amongst offbeat travellers and nature lovers as it has large areas of wetland providing the best climatic conditions for Blackbucks, Neelgai and several species of migratory birds. Dadri was once ruled by the Bhati Kings belonging to the Gurjar community.

Hapur is the smallest district in the state of Uttar Pradesh and is known as one of the important religious centres for Hindus in the north as the ancient town is home to several temples. Among the popular temples in Hapur are the Shiv Mandir, the Shani Mandir, the Sai Mandir, the Sabli Shiv Temple, the Garhmukteshwar and Chandi Mandir. Each of these temples are supposed to be at least 500 years old. There are several Jain and Buddhist temples as well as dargahs, churches and mausoleums in Hapur. The town has many famous monuments, the most popular one of which is the Kuchesar Fort. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Shiv Bari Mandir is a revered Hindu temple near Hapur, believed to be 700 years old. It is believed that the shivling installed here rises a little every year. The Dudheshwar Nath Temple is dedicated to Lord Dudheshwar Nath and attracts hordes of devotees during the festival of Janmashtami. Situated in the heart of the town, Chandi Mandir was built by Raja Harishchandra 500 years back.

Meerut
Moving on from Ghaziabad, we next visit the city of Meerut, which is about 51 km northeast of Ghaziabad and lies between the plains of the Ganges and the Yamuna rivers. An ancient city, Meerut has settlements dating back to the Indus Valley Civilisation found in and around the area and lies 70 km northeast of New Delhi, within the National Capital Region, the largest city in the region after Delhi. The city is one of the largest producers of sports goods, and the largest producer of musical instruments in India as well as an education hub in western Uttar Pradesh and is known as the Sports City of India. Students of Indian history will know the city as the starting point of the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny against the British colonial rule.

According to some versions, the city may have derived its name from Mayarashtra, the capital of the kingdom of Mayasura who was Mandodari’s father and the demon king Ravana’s father-in-law. This name may have mutated to Mairashtra, Mai-dant-ka-khera, Mairaath and eventually Meerut. According to another version, Maya(sura), being a distinguished architect, received from King Yudhishthira the land on which the city of Meerut now stands and he called this place Maharashtra, a name which in the course of time became shortened to Meerut. Tradition also has it that the city formed a part of the dominions of Mahipala, the king of Indraprastha, and the word Meerut is associated with his name. After the archaeological excavations at Vidura-ka-tila, a collection of several mounds named after Vidura, in 1950–1952, it was concluded to be remains of the ancient city of Hastinapur, the capital of Kauravas and Pandavas of the Mahabharata, which was washed away by Ganges floods. Fragment of the 6th Ashoka Pillar in sandstone, with inscription of Edicts of Ashoka, in Brahmi, originally from Meerut, are now in the British Museum.

Meerut also contained a Harappan settlement known as Alamgirpur and was the easternmost settlement of the Indus Valley Civilisation. It had been a centre of Buddhism in the period of Mauryan Emperor Ashoka between 273 to 232 BC, and remains of Buddhist structures were found near the Jama Masjid in the present-day city. The Ashoka Pillar was carried to Delhi from Meerut, by Firuz Shah Tughluq which was later damaged in a 1713 explosion, and restored in 1867.

In the eleventh century, the region to the south-west of the city was ruled by Har Dat, who was later defeated by Mahmud of Ghazni in 1018, while in 1399, Timur attacked and sacked Meerut and the city came under the rule of the Mughal Empire. The city saw Sikh and Maratha invasions in the 18th centuries, with interruptions by the Jats and Rohillas. In 1803, with the fall of Delhi, Daulat Rao Scindia of the Marathas ceded the territory to the British after which the cantonment of Meerut was set up in 1806. With time Meerut advanced into one of the biggest and most vital military stations of India and was made headquarters of the eponymous district in 1818.

Meerut, especially the cantonment is famously associated with the Indian Rebellion of 1857 against the British East India Company with the famous slogan Dilli Chalo or Let’s march to Delhi first raised here. Meerut was also the venue of the controversial Meerut Conspiracy Case in March 1929, in which several trade unionists, including three Englishmen, were arrested for organising Indian-rail strike.

Translating to Draupadi’s Kitchen, Draupadi-ki-Rasoi is set on the banks of the Buriganga river where legend has it that Draupadi, the wife of the Pandavas, cooked meals for the entire family. When the Pandavas stayed at Hastinapur in exile, Lord Krishna is believed to have visited them and when he asked for food, Draupadi had nothing to offer him. Krishna is said to have produced a miracle vessel which produced an unlimited supply of sumptuous food in Draupadi’s kitchen, and the site marks this incredible feat. Previously a forgotten village until the site was excavated, today this place is a favoured picnic spot, right next to Draupadi Ghat. The archaeology department unearthed copper utensils, ornaments made out of silver and gold, several oblong shaped ivory dice, and iron seals.

At Vidur Ka Tila, the Mahabharata plays out in all its glory. Said to be the former abode of Vidura, the minister of the Kauravas, this archaeological site, full of 50-60 feet tall mounds is located on the banks of the river Buriganga and has stunning sunset views.

Mustafa Castle is a historic landmark built in the memory of Nawab Mustafa Khan Shaifta, a renowned poet and critic, by his son, Nawab Mohammad Ishak Khan in 1900. During India’s independence struggle, the castle was witness to some of the most significant events in the history of the freedom struggle. The castle has some fine wooden furniture, paintings and various arts and artefacts from all over the world and several chambers are named after colours like Basanti or golden yellow and Gulabi or pink and so on, which are distinctly used in the different seasons with relevant colour schemes. The castle is built using various styles of architecture and shares prominent features with the buildings of Rajasthan and Oudh and is said to have used clay from the holy city of Mecca in the construction. There is no entry fee to enter the castle which is open between 7 am and 6 pm.

Built in memory of the 1857 revolt, the Shaheed Smarak is located quite close to the Company Gardens and events during important Indian national holidays. The grounds also houses the Government Freedom Struggle Museum which was set up in 1997, a crucial preservation of documents and other essentials that are currently used for educational and informative needs. The museum also cites two galleries showcasing some artefacts and paintings of the time as well as five galleries out of which three are operational. The first gallery comprises materials which depict the events leading to the war with paintings of the elusive fakir or medicant who was actively involved in the war and soldiers who refused to use cartridges are on display. The 2nd gallery showcases events which happened during the war and paintings of Rani Lakshmi Bai, Sati Choura Ghat, and Lucknow Bagh as well as collectables such as gun cartridges and swords displayed. The 3rd gallery contains inscriptions from the past including the ancient civilisation of Meerut, books about freedom struggle, and coins. Closed on Mondays, public holidays and the Sunday following the 2nd Saturday of the month, the museum is open between 10:30 am and 4:30 pm.

Bhole ki Jhaal, also called Salawa ki Jhaal is an important dam that is responsible for providing most of the electricity in the city. The area around this dam is a popular picnic spot in the city frequented by both locals and tourists. It is a good place to swim as the waters don’t run very deep here. There is also temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in the dam’s vicinity. The best time to visit Bhole ki Jhaal is during sunrise or sunset and with no entry fee, the dam is open between sunrise and sunset between 6 am and 7 pm.

The Augharnath Temple is also known as the Kali Paltan Mandir and is the oldest Shiva temple in the city as well as the most frequented one. The Shiva Linga at this temple is believed to be a Swayambhu or a self-manifested one. The temple’s historical significance stems out from the fact that it played an important role during India’s freedom struggle. Apart from the Shiva Linga, there are shrines for Lord Radha Krishna and Goddess Durga. The temple is flocked by hundreds of devotees on occasions like Mahashivratri and Purnima. The Indian soldiers were referred to as the Kali Paltan or the Black Army during the British colonial rule. This temple is situated very close to the Cantonment area and hence, it was popularly called the Kali Paltan Mandir then. The soldiers would hold their secret meetings and other dealings at this temple and would use the water from the temple well to quench their thirst. During the war, the temple was used to store essentials. There is a war memorial built in the temple premises to honour those who died during the First War of Indian Independence. The old temple was reconstructed in 1968 and a hexagonal hall was added with a 4.5 kg gold-plated kalasha installed in 2001. The temple is open between 6 am and 8:30 pm.

Constructed in white stone, the Digambar Jain temple is one of the oldest temples in the city and dates back thousands of years and houses two important altars. The shrine of Tikal Wale Bala is believed grant all wishes made here. The main idol of Bhagwan Parshwanath is seven feet tall and is a green emerald structure decked in beautiful silks. Five minor altars complete the temple. The snake sculptures that adorn the top are noteworthy and the six-feet tall statue of Lord Mahaveer is stunningly intricate. There are around 720 idols of the 24 teerthankaras with various details found in the sanctum. The Samavsharan Mandir is also a part of the temple complex. The temple complex was recently renovated.

The Saint John’s Church is one of the oldest churches in Northern India as well as one of the biggest with a seating capacity of 3000. The church is built in a very traditional style and has lush greenery surrounding it. Built in 1819, the church was constructed by the East India Company and comes under the diocese of Agra. This church has a typical English Anglican style with a large open interior space and an upper seating area. The wooden pews and kneelers, pretty stained glass window, marble Baptistery, and brass eagle lectern inside the church are original fittings and there is also a non-functioning pipe organ from that era. The church is open between 7 am and 6 pm with the Sunday service at 8:30 am in the summer and at 9:30 am during winters.

Shapir or Shahpeer Sahab ki Dargah is a mausoleum constructed during Mughal era by Queen Noor Jahan in 1628 to honour a local muslim Hazrat Shahpeer who is said to be the teacher of Emperor Jahangir and physician and advisor to the queen. The monument is built of stark red stones and there is a religious fair held here annually during the month of Ramadan. It is believed that this structure was planned within 24 hours of the death of Shahpeer and is of the oldest tombs, about 450 years old and has been around even before the Taj Mahal was constructed. Glistening red sandstone is used in the construction of the entire tomb with beautiful carvings of traditional motifs and floral designs. The structure is incomplete without a roof, but there are several arches and pillars near the main tomb which could have been in the original plan to close the structure and even with an open roof, rainwater does not reach the main tomb. There are two different theories on why the structure is incomplete. One of them being that Jahangir left for the war in Kashmir where he breathed his last. And, another being Noor Jahan’s fall out with the saint thereby ordering the construction to stop. The local Raja Jahagirdar built a gate for this structure in 1829 and today this is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India and considered as the National Heritage Monument.

A popular spot, the Suraj Kund Park was built by Lawar Jawaharlal, a businessman, in the early eighteenth century. This green spot is a great place for walking, jogging or even just relaxing. There is an earthen pond called the Kund, which has both historical and mythical significance and the nearby Mansa Devi temple is a must-visit as well. The outer vicinity of the park also has a line of street food stalls and there is the Indian flag and a statue of Swami Vivekananda on its grounds.

Gandhi Bagh is one of the oldest parks set up by East India Company and is famous for the musical fountain show which happens every evening. Today, the park is maintained by the Meerut Cantonment Board who are adding a beautiful children play area, car rides, boat rides, and even camel rides. The park is lush with greenery with mango, mulberry and bamboo trees and a walking trek path, terracotta park, and cricket ground. The garden is open from 6 am to 8 pm and though there are no entry charges to enter the garden, there are nominal charges for the rides.

Muzaffarnagar
Our next stop, Muzaffarnagar is less than 60 km north of Meerut. Also known as the Sugar Bowl of India and part of the Delhi NCR, it is situated midway on the Delhi – Haridwar/Dehradun National Highway (NH 58) in the middle of the highly fertile upper Ganga-Yamuna Doab region, making it one of the most developed and prosperous cities of Uttar Pradesh. The town was renamed in 1633 from Sarwat or Sarasvatipur by the son of a Mughal commander Sayyid Muzaffar Khan during the reign of Shah Jahan. The town is famous for its paper mills, sugar industry and steel rolling mills and is dotted with some Mughal-era monuments and small temples. The town speaks a dialect known as Khari Boli, which resembles the Haryanvi dialect of Hindi. It is also said that the famed war between the Kauravas and the Pandavas, was fought in the fields of Pachenda with the bases of their army camps now famed as Kaurawali and Pandavli respectively.

Ganeshdham is a famous temple popular for its 35 feet high statue of Lord Ganesha. With the river Tripatha flowing on one side and the Vat Vraksha on the other, it is a local favourite. There is also a massive statue of Lord Hanuman at the back of the temple. The Bhairon Ka Mandir is a temple dedicated to Lord Bhairo and is known for the Ekadashi Shivlinga, a cluster of different shivlingas. Sankirtan Bhawan is a temple dedicated to Lord Tirupati Balaji, making it the only temple dedicated to the lord in northern India. Also known as Kirtan Bhawan as kirtans or religious hymns are held daily at dusk, the temple provides free food to devotees on a daily basis at around 12 noon and about of 100 thousand poor are fed here every year.

The Akshay Vat Vatika is an enormous banyan tree, about 5100 years old, with roots spreading all around and the height of the tree about 150 feet. It is understood that Sage Sukhdeva, sat under this tree and recited the Puranas to the grandson of Arjun, King Parikshit for 7 days continuously and hence this tree is seen as a symbol of sacredness, truth and forgiveness. The Akshaya Vat is believed not to shed any of its leaves and therefore named as the Tree of Undying Character and newlyweds visit this place as a ritual and tie a red thread around it.

Established in 1970, the Zoology Museum is on the premises of the Sanatan Dharma College. Hosting a variety of species galleries, including fossils and insects with the insect gallery here is the biggest draw as well as a library.

Vahelna is a small village about 4 kms from Muzaffarnagar, famous for the Vahelna Jain Temple. Also known as the Shri 1008 Parshvnath Digamber Jain Atishye Kshetra, the main attraction here is the 31-feet high statue of Lord Parshvanatha. There is a Naturopathy Hospital & Research Centre in the complex. The temple sees a throng of devotees every year on 2 October, the annual day of the temple. According to legend, some thieves who used to rob statues or deities from the temple decided to break into the Vahelna Temple and take away the statue. When they were about to leave the vicinity of the temple, they fell on the ground and lost their eyesight. The next day, people of the village understood the reason behind the statue lying on the ground and from that moment on they knew the real power of Lord Parshvanatha and since then Vahelna became an important pilgrimage site. Apart from the Jain temple, Vahelna also houses a mosque and a Shiva Temple.

We’ll continue to visit more cities as we move eastwards…

Beaches or Mountains: What kind of holiday do you prefer?

Posted on July 26, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

While wondering what to write, I saw this writing prompt and thought it was apt for today. It’s summer time now and we are all thinking about past holidays, unfortunately here, travel is still not allowed. Since Singapore is tiny, we usually travel out of the country for all holidays, even if it’s a short weekend jaunt. This is unlike most other countries which have a rich hinterland which can be used as holiday destinations.

So, mountains or beaches? This is easy and difficult at the same time, because I love the water. My ideal holiday destination would be a place somewhere in the mountains, surrounded by greenery and overlooks a water body. I don’t know swimming and am not very fond of water sports, so a beach holiday would not really be a preference. Though I would say that a hammock on the beach or even a nice lounger with access to cool drinks and a good, gripping book is what a real relaxing holiday is all about. However, for those who do, a beach holiday can provide hours of fun and relaxation.

Anyone who has spent time at the beach already knows that the beach is the perfect stress reliever. In fact, Hippocrates created a word, Thalassotherapy, for the buzz you get from being by the sea. Science has even proven that a day at the beach can lead to increased mood, better sleep, and a general feeling of bliss. A day at the beach increases the Vitamin D production in the body, an essential ingredient for healthy skin and bones. It also boosts the immune system and general mood. The ocean’s saltwater is a natural saline that can clear sinuses, which can help fight infection, allergies, and general sinus issues. The minerals in saltwater are great for the skin and the sand can help with exfoliation. Recent studies have also found that sea air is full of negative ions which help bodies absorb oxygen better and help balance levels of serotonin. One study even proved that negative ions can help treat seasonal affective disorder. Researchers have found that the sound of waves actually changes brain patterns, it puts the mind into a deep meditative state. There is even one study by the Barcelona Institute for Global Health that showed that exposure to blue spaces like bodies of water, had a better effect on mood than exposure to green spaces like parks and trees.

At the beach, looking out at the vast ocean which changes minute to minute is awe-inspiring and watching the waves roll and ebb with the sun glistening on the water can make hours feel like minutes. And how can one forget ocean sunrises and sunsets which showcase all that is beautiful in nature. It is like watching a beautiful painting come to life. For those living in climates which are cold, a beach holiday is a chance to escape the weather. Though for someone like me, who grew up in a tropical climate and now lives in one, the heat is not the best reason to go to the beach. Seafood lovers have another reason to love beach holidays as it is known fact that the best and freshest seafood is found in coastal areas. Sitting in a beachside shack with some delicious food, watching the waves would probably be bliss for such people.

Other than what I have written above, those who like water sports would also enjoy a beach holiday as well as those who enjoy diving, snorkelling and wakeboarding. Lovers of the marine life can also take rides to check out the many marine creatures with experienced guides. Many coastal areas are home to coral reefs, both natural and artificial, that are a haven for marine diversity.

Mountain and high altitudes have been shown to have positive effects on everything from muscle building to fighting obesity. In the mountains, one can disconnect and relax completely and be connected with nature. One can enjoy the early morning mists, the dew on the trees and grass and who can forget the loads of oxygen and fresh air one gets in the mountains. Walking barefoot in the grass is a feeling like no other.

One study showed that even a weeklong vacation in the mountains can have a positive impact on weight loss. Participants at a higher altitude lost an average of 1.5 kg per person in a week even when they kept to their regular diet and activity level. Not only does the high altitude have a positive effect on the metabolism, it also reduces appetite and increases the feeling of being satisfied after eating. Higher altitudes also lower the risk of heart disease. At high altitude, the lower oxygen levels force the body to produce new blood vessels that increase blood flow to the heart. The air up in the mountains has lower pollution levels which also has a positive impact on health. Spending time in the mountains has shown to be beneficial for people with asthma or other respiratory problems and the scent of pine and lavender, be found in the mountains, has a calming effect, reducing depression and stress. The mountains are nature’s gym and vacations in the mountains tend to be more active with even a gentle walk that takes in declines and inclines, and gravity being a great personal trainer. Hiking which has a whole range of health benefits like increasing the heart rate, exercising the core muscles, increase bone density, build strength in the legs, buttocks, hips and lower back and reduces the risk of diabetes. So, time spent in the mountains can transform the body and mind.

There is also an interesting study done by psychologists of the University of Virginia. Psychologist Shigehiro Oishi and colleagues Thomas Talhelm and Minha Lee in a series of three studies, tested whether there is a link between personality and an aspect of physical ecology: flat terrain versus mountainous terrain. For one of the studies, the research group analysed a database of 613,000 personality surveys across the United States to see whether introversion and extroversion was associated with a state’s geography. The study found that only one of the Big Five personality traits predicted terrain preference – extraversion.

Extroverts prefer beaches to mountains and introverts love the mountains more. The study was developed on the basis of the psychologists’ hypothesis called person-environment fit which suggests that people choose surroundings that help them fulfil their desires. The study also reveals that mountain lovers are more introverted than beach lovers. Mountain lovers seek isolation when they travel and hence, they wish to go to the mountains where the population density is low and the probability of meeting people is less. People who prefer beaches are extroverts, who like to socialise.

Participants perceived wooded/secluded terrain to be calmer, quieter and more peaceful. In contrast, participants in the flat/open condition perceived the terrain to be more sociable, exciting and stimulating. The study found that when people want to socialize with others, they prefer the ocean far more (75%) than mountains (25%). In contrast, when they want to be alone, they choose mountains (52%) as much as the ocean (48%). Results of the study also showed that introverts tend to live in mountainous regions, while extroverts live in open and flat regions. The researchers caution that there is no evidence mountains make people introverted, but rather, introverts tend to choose mountainous geography because of the secluded environment.

According to the lead researcher, Shige Oishi, individuals should consider their personalities more closely when choosing a place to live as some cities and towns have a geography that is more accommodating for some people than for others and if someone knows they are introverted, then they may be rejuvenated by being in a secluded place, while an extrovert may be rejuvenated more in an open space.

So, in conclusion, beach lovers are social, have a large group of friends and can often divulge in small talk. Their phones do not stop buzzing and they make friends freely and easily. They probably love music and believe in the notion of carpe diem which means to live in the present moment and be too concerned about the future. A mountain lover is an introvert at heart, who likes seclusion and loves their own company above anybody else’s. They are creative, be it writing, painting, sketching, or singing and belong to the mountains because they think they bring out the best in them. They are also philosophical and like conversations that are much deeper and love talking about art, nature, life and philosophy. They are also better listeners.

When I initially said I would prefer mountains, it was right up my alley as I am self-professed introvert and maybe that study is absolutely accurate. What about you? Are you a beach person or someone who prefers the mountains?

Travel Bucket List: India – Lakshwadweep Islands Part 4

Posted on July 12, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

Minicoy, locally known as Maliku in the local language of Divehi, is an island which, along with Viringili, is on Maliku atoll, the southernmost atoll of the archipelago. Divehi is also the national and official language of the Republic of Maldives. The language is a descendant of Elu Prakrit and is closely related to the Sinhala language, but not mutually intelligible with it. However, the Lakhshadweep administration refers to Dhivehi as Mahl due to a misunderstanding on the part of a British civil servant who came to Minicoy in the 1900’s. The official asked a local what his language as and he replied Divehi-bas. When the official looked confused because he had never heard of this language, the the islander said Mahaldeebu as he knew that locals on the subcontinent referred to the kingdom to the south or the Maldives by that name. The civil servant then recorded the language of Minicoy as Mahl.

The ancient name of Maliku was Mahiladu meaning women’s island which is derived from the Elu Prakrit term Mahila du, which literally means woman island. However, the name Maliku is thought to have been derived from the Arab trader’s term for the island, Jazirat al-Maliku or the the island of the king. Minicoy islanders have long settled in the Nicobar Islands across the Bay of Bengal and regularly travelled back to Minicoy. The Andaman and Nicobar Islands had a reputation in the Maldives and Minicoy of being inhabited by cannibals, and so collectively the Andaman and Nicobar groups were called Minikaa-raajje by the Maldive and Minicoy islanders which meant cannibal kingdom. A British official once asked a Minicoy islander what the name of his island was and was told he was Maliku but usually lived in Minikaa-raajje or Nicobar. The official thought Maliku and Minikaa were the same place and recorded the name of this islander’s home as Minikaa which later became anglicised as Minicoy. So because of this cross-cultural misunderstanding, Maliku would forever be called by a name that sounded like cannibal in the local language.

The Maliku Atoll has a lagoon with two entrances in its northern side, Saalu Magu on the northeast and Kandimma Magu on the northwest. Its western side is fringed by a narrow reef and coral rocks awash. The interior of the lagoon is sandy and has some coral patches. The Nine Degree Channel separates Minicoy and the Laccadive Islands. The closest island to Minicoy is Thuraakunu in the Republic of the Maldives. Since 1956, the Indian Government has forbidden the direct travelling between the two islands despite their geographic proximity and ethnographic similarities. Maliku Kandu is the traditional name of the broad channel also called the Eight Degree Channel between Minicoy and Ihavandippulhu or the Haa Alif Atoll in the Maldives. There are remains in an area of the island known as Salliballu dating back from Minicoy’s Buddhist past, about 800 years ago. The most conspicuous archaeological sites are two mounds or large heaps of ruins belonging to a stupa and another related structure. These sites were investigated by the Archaeological Survey of India in the 1980s and excavations yielded few discoveries, for the sites had been much damaged and vandalised previously. Still, a much-damaged large Buddha head was found buried in the area. The name Salliballu originated in the local name for the Christian cross, because the locals say that an inscription with a cross was found there. But it is likely that, coming from a Buddhist site, it was a cross-shaped mandala or visvavajra, like those often found on inscriptions in archaeological remains in the Maldives. Local oral tradition has it that Kamborani and Kohoratukamana, two princesses from the Maldives, came to Maliku. When they arrived, the tivaru, who had been living there before, left the island for Sri Lanka. The Kamborani’s descendants are the bodun or the land and shipowners and the descendants of Kohoratukamana are the niamin or captains. The other status groups are made up of the descendants of their crew.

According to the documented evidence, Minicoy Atoll has been under Indian administrations since the mid 16th century. Until the 16th century, the Laccadives was under the suzerainty of the Kolathiri Raja of Chirakkal in what is today the Indian state of Kerala. With the Portuguese ascendancy in the region, it became necessary for the Kolathiri to transfer sovereignty of the islands to their hereditary admiral, the Ali Raja of Kolathunadu or Cannanore. However, the kings and queens of the Maldives also issued edicts addressed to the subjects in their realm Malikaddu Midhemedhu, meaning between Maliku or Minicoy and Addu. Previously Addu was the southernmost island in the dominions of the Maldive kings and was in the Addu Atoll. A 1696 grant issued under the seal of the King Siri Kula Ran Mani or Sultan Mohamed IV of the Maldives, regarding the building and upkeep of a mosque in Finey at Thiladhummathi atoll in Maldives, referred to him as Malikaddu Midhemedhu ekanuonna mi korhu anikaneh nethee korhu meaning the sole sovereign with no other over what lies between Maliku and Addu.

In 1857, suzerainty over Minicoy transferred from the East India Company to the Indian Empire when Queen Victoria was proclaimed Empress and in 1790, Maliku was surrendered to the Court of Directors of the British East India Company by the Ali Raja Cannanore, Junumabe Ali-Adi Raja Bibi II. The Ali Raja was allowed to administer Maliku in return for a tribute to the East India Company. On 27 July 1795, Junumabe Ali Adi-Raja Bibi’s monopoly over coir trade was abolished and in 1905, under the heavy burden of debts to the Empire, Mohamed Ali-Adi Raja of Cannanore agreed to surrender sovereignty and control over Minicoy, but died before the formal transfer which was finally signed on 9 February 1909 and backdated to 1 July 1905 and Minicoy came under the district of Malabar. After India’s independence, India held a plebiscite in Minicoy in 1956 to determine whether the people of Minicoy wished to join the Indian Union and a referendum was held and because of an absolute majority Minicoy joined the Indian Union. In December 1976, India and the Maldives signed a maritime boundary treaty whereby Minicoy was placed on the Indian side of the boundary.

The cultural traits of Minicoy differ from those of any other island in Lakshadweep. Manners, customs, lifestyle and food are similar to those of the Maldives to the south of Minicoy and Malikubas, officially referred as Mahl by the Lakshadweep administration, a dialect of Dhivehi language, is spoken on the island. Like in other Dhivehi-speaking communities, the right-to-left Tāna script is used for writing. The social structure is anthropologically interesting, being a matrilineal Muslim society where a man will live in either his mother’s or his wife’s house. Property is inalienable and owned by houses or the matrilineal descent groups. Minicoy islanders, like the other Lakshadweep islanders, follow Islam. Thuraakunu in the Maldives is the closest island to Minicoy. Formerly there was direct trade between both, and fishermen from both islands used to visit each other. This exchange continued even after Minicoy became part of India, but since 1956 the Indian government has forbidden these visits between two nations.

Investigator Bank is a submerged bank or sunken atoll located 31 km to the northeast of Minicoy Island in the southern region of the Nine Degree Channel. The bank was named in 1886 after the wooden paddle hydrographic survey vessel HMS Investigator.

Minicoy is the second largest and the southernmost among the islands of the archipelago and is located 201 km to the south-southwest of Kalpeni, at the southern end of the Nine Degree Channel and 125 km to the north of Thuraakunu, Maldives, at the northern end of the Eight Degree Channel. It is one of the few inhabited islands of the group and is one of the 36 small islets. The small island has a total area of 4.801 sq km and is known for its vibrant coral reefs and quaint white-sand beaches. The atoll contains two islands with the main island located on the eastern and southeastern side of the lagoon, along the reef fringe. Minicoy is almost completely covered with coconut trees and one of the few landmarks of the island is a tall lighthouse built by the British in 1885 which offers jaw dropping views of the island and the sea. Juma Masjid is another attraction which is an old mosque built in the medieval era and houses the rich ancient sculptors that were found on the island. Minicoy has a tropical Savanna climate, with a warm temperature throughout the year. The best season to visit this island is during the winter months from September until May. Foreign nationals are not allowed to visit this island.

On the southern side of the main island lies the uninhabited islet of Viringili, also called the Small Pox Island where formerly the lepers of Minicoy were banished to this island where they lived in abject conditions. Viringili is barely 200 m in length and is fringed with gravel and covered with bushes. A few stunted coconut trees grow in the center of the island which is 0.6 km from Minicoy.

This ends the series on the Lakshwadweep archipelago. Writing this series has made me want to visit, but that’s a thought for another day. I’ll be back soon with a new state to explore in India.

Travel Bucket List: India – Lakshwadweep Islands Part 3

Posted on July 9, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

The Laccadive subgroup had been known earlier as the Cannanore Islands after the coastal town of Cannanore or Kannur are one of the three island subgroups in the archipelago. The name originated in the fact that while the northern group of Amindivi had in 1784 stopped being a vassal state of the Cannanore or the Arakkal kingdom in exchange to fealty to Tippu Sultan’s kingdom of Mysore, the southern group remained loyal to Cannanore. The Laccadive subgroup includes the island of Agatti, with the Agatti airport, the only airport in Lakshadweep, as well as Bangaram Atoll which has a tourist resort in Bangaram, its largest island. The islands of Agatti, Androth, Kavaratti and Kalpeni are inhabited and Islam is the main religion of the islanders. The Laccadive Islands subgroup is the central subgroup of the Lakswadweep consists mostly of atolls with islands, as well as part of one submerged bank. The Amindivi and the Laccadive subgroups have a submarine connection between them through Pitti Bank, a largely sunken atoll. The Laccadive subgroup is separated from the Amindivi Islands subgroup roughly by the 11th parallel north and from the atoll of Minicoy far to the south by the 9 Degree or Mamala Channel.

In the same manner as the Amindivi Islands further north, the islands of the Laccadive subgroup were settled from ancient times by people of nearby Kerala to which were added later people of Arab descent. Vasco da Gama visited these islands around 1498 and in the mid 16th century, all the inhabited islands of the Lakshadweep put themselves under the rule of the Arakkal kingdom in order to obtain protection from the Portuguese. In 1697, the notorious pirate Captain Kidd and his crew brought their ship, the Adventure Galley, to the Laccadive Islands, chopped up local boats for firewood and raped local women. When the locals retaliated by killing the ship’s cooper, the pirates attacked the village and beat up the people who lived there. Almost 100 years later, in 1784, the Amindivi group of islands rejected the protection of Cannanore and became a vassal state of the Kingdom of Mysore while the southern group remained loyal to the rule of Cannanore. Following the defeat of Tippu Sultan and the 1792 treaty of Srirangapatam, the southern subgroup was permitted by the East India Company to remain under the rule of the Cannanore Kingdom in exchange for a yearly tribute of INR 15,000. Since the tributary payments were often in arrears, the islands were put under direct rule of the British Government, first between 1855 and 1860, and then finally annexed in 1877 by virtue of the doctrine of lapse and became attached to the Malabar district.

One of the most habited islands of Lakshadweep; Amindivi is a group of islands lying in North Lakshadweep and is famous for its coir products, but due to government regulations, foreign tourists are not allowed to visit this island.

Agatti Island is situated on a coral atoll called Agatti atoll with another island, Kalpatti located at the southern end on the same reef. Agatti is one of the Lakshadweep islands open to tourism with visitors only allowed on the Island under certain restrictions, including an Entry Permit from the Lakshadweep Administration for entering or visiting the island. Entry Permits are issued based on the visitor having a confirmed place to stay as there are only two hotels or resorts in Agatti, Agatti Island Beach Resort and Sea Shells Beach Resort. A road runs through the island, which can be best enjoyed by hiring a bicycle available at many places. Stretching over an area of 8 km, the island is sparsely populated with around 8000 inhabitants. The Agatti airport, the only one in the archipeglo, is located in the southwestern part of the island. The locals mostly speak English and Malayalam, and Islam is the main religion with the primary occupation of the people being fishing.

The island has splendid beaches with the tropical climate apt for sunbathing. One can also go on long strolls on the beach which are fringed with tall coconut trees. Adventure enthusiasts can indulge in water sports such as snorkelling, scuba diving, swimming, kayaking, and water skiing and one can even give deep sea fishing a go. Scuba diving and glass bottom boat rides are very popular and are a must-try while on the island. The best time to visit Agatti Island between October and March as the weather stays pleasant throughout the months and the sea stays calm making it safe to explore the island. During summers, between April and May, the temperature goes as high as 35 degrees celcius and the island receives intermittent to heavy rainfall during the monsoons. Alcoholic beverages are prohibited on the islands and only Indian nationals are allowed to visit and stay on Agatti Island with foreigners permitted to stay on Bangaram, Minicoy and Thinnikara Islands.

Bangaram is an atoll which is roughly rectangular shape northeast of Agatti island connected to the reef of Agatti through a shallow submarine ridge. Bangaram Island is the largest island in the atoll with a long brackish pond in the center of the island fringed by screwpine and coconut palms. South Bangaram Cay is a small sand cay and Thinnakara is another large island in the atoll. Parali 1, Parali 2 and Parali 3 are three small islets at the eastern fringe of the reef, but Parali 1 was washed away in 2017. The Bangaram Island Beach Resort was opened to tourists in 1974, but lack of commercial flights made access difficult. Tourism took off after the Agatti airport on the nearby Agatti island was commissioned and regular commercial flights from Kochi were established. Current alcohol regulations in Lakshadweep allow consumption of alcoholic drinks only on Bangaram Atoll. Thinnakara offers numerous adventure activities, including scuba diving, snorkelling, deep sea fishing beside white sand beaches, a calm lagoon and a sparkling, clear coral reef. The Atoll has numerous species of tropical birds found on the island. Bangaram Island forms a part of the terrestrial ecoregion of the Lakshadweep archipelago with many species of marine, terrestrial and aerial living beings including fishes, crabs, lobsters, gastropods, bivalves, turtles, seaweed and birds . It is also a region of ecological importance due to the presence of the coral reef around the island. The best time to visit Bangaram Island is between October and March as the weather is pleasant and the sea is calm most of the times. Tourists need a special permit to enter the island. If one cannot get space at the only resort at Bangaram Island, the best way to explore this island is by arranging a stay at one the hotels on Agatti island and visiting Bangaram as a day trip.

Pakshipitti where pakshi means bird in Malayalam, Telugu and Tamil, is an uninhabited coral islet, devoid of vegetation, about 24 km north of Kavaratti. The island is low and arid and lacks adequate anchorage points and is difficult to access. There is another island with the same name part of the Kalpeni Atoll. There is a dark rock on the eastern side and several stone cairns. Pakshipitti is an important nesting place for birds such as the sooty tern, the greater crested tern and the brown noddy. The birds nest side by side, but not intermixed, on the dry coral rubble. Since it has no protecting reef surrounding it, the islet is periodically rinsed by wave action and there is no accumulation of guano on it.

Paksipitti Bank is located at the southern end of Pakshipitti Bank and is a largely submerged atoll on the same bank as Amini Island. It may be considered a largely submerged and sunken atoll with just the two islands Amini and Paksipitti remaining at its opposite ends.

Also known as Androth, Andrott Island is a small inhabited island known as Divanduru in the past, a name that is found in some old French maps. Unlike other islands, Andretti islands are orientated in the east-west direction. Today, it is a protected territory and not a tourist destination. Andrott Island is the nearest to the mainland among all the islands in the group as well as the longest and the biggest. Most of the inhabitants are Muslims with a Hindu minority. The saint Ubaidullah who is believed to have preached Islam in Lakshadweep Islands, died here and his remains are entombed in the Jumah mosque. The island also houses several Buddhist archaeological remains.

Kavaratti is the capital of Lakshadweep and also the name of the atoll upon which the town stands. Well known for its pristine white sand beaches and calm lagoons, it is a popular tourist destination with the calm lagoons on the island ideal for water sports and swimming. The waters around the coral atoll are rich in diverse marine life and the Kavaratti Aquarium has a rich collection of corals and a vast collection of tropical fish specimens. The other major industries on the island are fisheries and agriculture with coconut the dominant crop. The island is home to 12 atolls, five submerged banks, and three coral reefs. On the island, one can also visit the Urja mosque, the only sacred place on the island of a sculptor of the 17th century.

Also known as Koefaini, Kalpeni is an inhabited atoll 71 km south of Andrott and 201 km north-northeast of Minicoy, with the broad Nine Degree Channel between them. The islands are a group of three islands and is one of the most picturesque areas of Lakshadweep. It forms a single coral atoll along with the uninhabited islands of Cheriyam, Tilakkam, Kodithala and Pitti islet with the eastern and southern shorelines of the island having accumulations of coral debris, the result of a violent storm that hit the area in 1847. Kalpeni is the main island, with Kodithala immediately to the north and Cheriyam the northernmost island, the largest of Kalpeni’s satellite islands. The Tilakkam group are a group of islands off the west of Kalpeni and Koomel is a small islet off the west tip of Kalpeni. Kalpeni was the first island in the Union Territory where women were allowed to go to school and get an education. There is a beach at the northern tip of the island called Tip Beach where one snorkel, sea bathw and kayak. Because of the coral reefs present in the sea near the beach, the water is shallow and calm, making it an excellent spot for beach activities. There is a 37-metre-high lighthouse in Kalpeni from which top one can see a bird’s eye view of the island, the lagoon with the smaller islands, the reef and the surrounding ocean.

Suheli Par is a coral atoll in an oval shape surrounded by a zone of rich marine fauna. There are three islands on the reef encircling the lagoon. Valiyakara is located at the northern end of the lagoon and has retained most of its original vegetation. It has also has some largely stunted, unkempt coconut trees and is visited occasionally by workers who collect the coconuts. Hermit crabs are found in abundance and there is a lighthouse on this island. Cheriyakara is located on the southeastern side of the lagoon and slightly smaller than Valiyakara. It has a large coconut plantation. Between mid-October and mid-April, fishermen of Agatti and Kavaratti stay in temporary settlements on this island when they catch tuna in the surrounding waters of the atoll and process it on the island. Indira-Shastri Dweep is a long sandbank located between the two islands and was used as a breeding ground by terns. The grey heron and the black-capped kingfisher have been observed in this atoll and owing to the rich marine life there was a proposal to declare Suheli Par a marine national park. In 2006 a ship from Seychelles ran aground on this atoll, but there was no oil spill reported.

In the next part, our last part for this series, we’ll explore the Minicoy Atoll.

Travel Bucket List: India – Lakshwadweep Islands Part 2

Posted on July 7, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

The Aminidivi group of islands, consisting of Androth, Amini, Kadmat, Kiltan, Chetlath, and Bitra came under the rule of Tipu Sultan in 1787 and passed to British control after the Third Anglo-Mysore War and were attached to South Canara. The rest of the islands came under the suzerainty of the Arakkal family of Cannanore in return for a payment of annual tribute which the British took over for nonpayment of arrears and were attached to the Malabar district of the Madras Presidency during the British Raj. On 1 November 1956, during the reorganization of Indian states, the Lakshadweep islands were separated from Malabar district and organised into a separate union territory for administrative purposes with the new territory called Laccadive, Minicoy, and Amindivi Islands before adopting the name Lakshadweep Islands on 1 November 1973.

The Aminidivi subgroup of islands consisting of Amini, Keltan, Chetlat, Kadamat, Bitra, and Perumal Par and the Laccadive subgroup of islands which comprises mainly of Androth, Kalpeni, Kavaratti, Pitti, and Suheli Par, have a submarine connection between them through Pitti Bank. Together with Minicoy Island, a lonely atoll located at the southern end of the 200-km-broad Nine Degree Channel, they form the Coral Islands of India in the Arabian Sea. All these islands have been built up by corals and have fringing coral reefs very close to their shores. Two banks further north, Angria Bank and Adas Bank are not considered part of the group. The Aminidivi Islands, are one of the three island subgroups in Lakshadweep and is the northern group of the Lakshadweep, separated from the Laccadive Islands subgroup roughly by the 11th parallel north. The islands of Amini, Kiltan, Chetlat, Kadmat and Bitra are inhabited with Islam being the main religion of the islanders. The islands were inhabited from ancient times by people of nearby Kerala to which were added later people of Arab descent. In the mid 16th century all the inhabited islands of the Lakshadweep were conferred as the jagir or estate of the ruling family of the Cannanore or Arakkal Kingdom by the Chirakkal or Kolattiri Raja in order to grant them protection from the Portuguese. In the latter quarter of the 18th century, the islands of the Amindivi group revolted owing to the rigours of the enforcement of the monopoly of the coir rope trade and following the uprising, the northern islands put themselves under the rule of the Kingdom of Mysore in 1784, then ruled by Tippu Sultan. The southern group of the Cannanore Islands, however, remained loyal to the Arakkal Kingdom. In 1792, as a consequence of the Third Anglo-Mysore War and the defeat of Tippu Sultan, the Amindivi Islands came under the East India Company rule following the treaty of Srirangapatna.

Cora Divh, also called Coradeeve or Little Bassas de Pedro Bank, is a submerged bank or sunken atoll and is the third largest feature of Lakshadweep, after Bassas de Pedro and Sesostris Bank. It is also the northernmost feature. Cora Divh has no emergent cays or islands and is covered by sand, coral rubble and broken shells.

Sesostris Bank is a submerged bank or sunken atoll and is the second largest feature of Lakshadweep and one of the northernmost features, after Cora Divh and Bassas de Pedro and is named after the steam frigate INS Sesostris of the Indian Navy.

Bassas de Pedro, also known as Manjappar or Pedro Bank, is a submerged bank or sunken atoll which is the largest feature of Lakshadweep. It is also one of the northernmost features, second only to Cora Divh and is in the shape of an arch open to the east with widths ranging from 15 km in the north to 33 km in the south. Its southern end is 63 km east of North Cay of Cherbaniani Reef, the closest land feature. There are no emergent cays or islands and the bank is steep-to, smooth with minor undulations in topography, and composed of sand, shells, and decayed coral. The water on the bank is not discolored.

Cherbaniani Reef, also known as Beleapani Reef and Valiyapanniyam in Malayalam, is a coral atoll and is the northwesternmost feature of Lakshadweep with a roughly oval shape. The 14 km long coral reef that encloses the lagoon has three small uninhabited islands on it composed of accumulated coral sand, shingle, cuttle-bones and sea shells. There are many land hermit crabs under the boulders and among the detritus and the atoll used to be a breeding ground for pelagic birds, including the sooty tern and brown noddy, formerly found in great numbers.

North Islet has a small mosque built and maintained by local fishermen from Bitra, Chetlat, Kiltan and Agatti islands. The fishermen came here and camp for fishing during the period between both monsoons. Lakshadweep islanders from Chetlat and Bitra sometimes visit the islands to collect guano for the gardens of the inhabited islands, gathering eggs, dumping garbage and disturbing the nestlings of pelagic birds in the process. The beaches are strewn with marine litter.

Byramgore Reef, also known as Chereapani Reef is a coral atoll whose northern part is submerged. There are a few sandbanks on the reefs, but little land is above the surface at high tide. The atoll is visited by birds, including the lesser crested tern and greater crested tern.

Chetlat Island is a coral island whose local history says that islanders were cruelly treated by Portuguese seafarers in the past. Coir twisting was the traditional occupation of the islanders and average Chetlat coir used to be equal to first-class coir of the other islands in Lakshadweep. One of the populated islands of the archipelago, Chetlat is located 37 km to the northwest of Kiltan Island and the reef and lagoon are located to the west of the island with a small scale yearly growing sand spit on the northern point of the island. Chetlat is the sole inhabited island of the township of Chetlat Island and the inhabitants are engaged in very small scale farming and fishing which are mainly for the island consumption. There is a small jetty on the west coast and a helipad on southpoint.

Bitra, also known as Bitra Par, is a coral atoll where prior to the 20th century, islanders from Kiltan and Chetlat visited to collect the eggs of birds breeding there. Until 1945, when a woman from Chetlat made this island her home, there were no attempts to settle this island permanently. There is a small shrine dedicated to an old Arab saint by the name of Malik Mulla who was buried on the island which has become a pilgrimage site. The atoll of Bitra encompasses two islands, the main Bitra Island is located at the northern end of the coral reef and the small south cay is located on the southern part. Bitra is the smallest of the populated islands of Lakshadweep with the main island having a small jetty on the south shore and a helipad on the westpoint. The inhabitants on the island are engaged in very small scale farming and fishing which are mainly for the island consumption.

Kiltan or Kilthan Island is a coral island which was settled during the early periods of immigration to the Lakshadweep islands, part of an international trade route between the Persian Gulf and Ceylon. It is also home of the Sufi saint Shaikh Ahmed Naqshabanthi. Kiltan is one of the populated islands of Lakshadweep with the reef and lagoon located to the west of the island and is also crossed by the 73rd meridian east through its landmark known as Kulikkara which is a tomb of a Lady venerated by the natives.

Kadmat Island, also known as Cardamom Island, is a coral island with seagrass and marine turtles which nest here. The island has been notified as a marine protected area for ensuring the conservation of the island’s animals, plants, organism and other resources. The only inhabited village on the island is Kadmat, which has fishing as the main economic activity with agriculture limited to 5% of the land area. Tourism is allowed even for non-Indians and the attractions are kayaking, snorkeling and leisure trips by a glass-bottomed boat for scuba diving. Kadmat Island is the central most island of the archipelago and is in the shape of a tear drop and is the longest island in the Amindivi group. There is an airport on nearby Agatti Island, in which flights operate from Cochin. From Agatti, it is a two and half hours boat ride to Kadmat. Ferry services also operate from Cochin on the coast of Kerala but involves a journey of 16 hours.

In 1960, a hoard of coins were unearthed and examined, revealing that the island has been inhabited since at least the year 200 and the island is known to have traded with the Romans, as in 1948 a Roman coin was found in a quarry on the island. Kadmat Island offers a host of activities to its guests which is why it is thronged by thousands of tourists every year. Some of the most popular activities and things to do on the island are scuba diving, kayaking, snorkelling and paragliding. One can also just sit and sun soak and admire the beautiful surroundings and use some of the many amazing spa and massage services available here.

Spread over 100 metres and surrounded by beautiful blue lagoon and shimmery white sand, Kadmat Beach is not only one of the most gorgeous beaches in the region but also, one of the most visited. One can relax on a hammock, sunbathe on the shores, stroll along the seashare and watch some of its many mesmerising sunrises and sunsets. Kayaking is another popular activity here due to the pristine nature, mostly untouched and uncommercialised with crystal clear waters. There are glass bottom boats available which can be hired for the views.

The best time to visit Kadmat Island is during the winters and early summers, between the months of October and May when there are cool sea breezes blowing, and the climate is pleasant. It is better to avoid summers and monsoons due to the high heat and humidity.

Elikalpeni Bank is a submerged bank or sunken atoll and is the easternmost geographic feature of the archipelago.

Perumal Par, also known as Peremul Par, is an uninhabited coral atoll very similar in appearance to the Cherbaniani Reef further north. It has a large lagoon devoid of islands in the encircling reef, except for 3 small sandy islets located at the eastern area. Terns of different species visit this atoll. There is some damage to the corals caused by Acanthaster planci crown-of-thorns starfish that was observed in the 1990s. Its surrounding waters are a good fishing area for baitfish and is often visited by fishermen from the inhabited islands nearby as well as tourists from the nearby Bangaram Island resort who often make excursions to this lonely atoll.

Amini Island was one of the first islands in the archipelago to be inhabited. The artisans on this island are known for making walking sticks out of coconut shells and tortoise shells as well as carved stone and coral motifs. The channel between Amini Island and Cardamom Island is safe and deep. The Amini Island Light is shown on the south point of the island. The island is oval with the long axis oriented northeast-southwest. It lies at the northeastern extremity of Pitti Bank, 42 km from the small, uninhabited Pitti Island which is not to be confused with the Pitti Islet of Kalpeni Atoll, which is located at the opposite southwestern extremity of the bank. Pitti Bank, also oriented along a northeast-southwest axis, is 49 km long and may be considered a largely submerged and sunken atoll with just the two islands Amini and Pitti remaining at its opposite ends. Kadmat island, although just 5 km northeast of Amini Island, is separated from it by a deep channel and thus forms a separate geographical unit.

In the next part, we will explore the Laccadive subgroup of the Lakshwadweep archipelago.

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

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