Half Lion: How P.V. Narasimha Rao Transformed India – Vinay Sitapati
When P.V. Narasimha Rao became the unlikely prime minister of India in 1991, he inherited a nation adrift, violent insurgencies, and economic crisis. Despite being unloved by his people, mistrusted by his party, and ruling under the shadow of 10 Janpath, Rao transformed the economy and ushered India into the global arena.
With exclusive access to Rao’s never-before-seen personal papers and diaries, this definitive biography provides new revelations on the Indian economy, nuclear programme, foreign policy and the Babri Masjid. Tracing his early life from a small town in Telangana through his years in power, and finally, his humiliation in retirement, it never loses sight of the inner man, his difficult childhood, his corruption and love affairs, and his lingering loneliness. Meticulously researched and brutally honest, this landmark political biography is a must-read for anyone interested in knowing about the man responsible for transforming India.
A harvest festival celebrated across India and the subcontinent, Makar Sankranti, Uttarayan, Maghi, or just Sankranti, which is celebrated today is also known as Poush Sankranti in Bangladesh or Tirmoori in Pakistan, is a harvest festival day, dedicated to the Sun God Lord Surya. It is observed each year the day the Sun enters the zodiac sign Capricorn, which corresponds to January as per the Gregorian calendar and marks the first day of the sun’s transit into the Makara Rashi or Capricorn.
It is celebrated on either 14 or 15 January due to the addition of the extra day in leap years. The festival, which is a harvest festival is celebrated with colourful decorations, children singing and asking for treats, fairs, dances, kite flying, bonfires and feasts. Some go to sacred rivers and lakes and bathe in a ceremony of thanks to the sun and every twelve years, the Kumbh Mela, the largest mass pilgrimage festivity is observed in conjunction with Makar Sankranti. Here, devotees pray to the Sun God and bathe at the confluence of the Rivers Ganga and Yamuna, known as the Triveni Sangam in Prayagraj, Uttar Pradesh, a tradition attributed to Adi Shankaracharya.
Makar Sankranti is known by various names across the country. It is known as Magh Bihu in Assam, Maghi, in Punjab, Haryana, and Himachal Pradesh, Sukarat in central India, Pongal in Tamil Nadu, Uttarayan in Gujarat, Uttarakhand and Uttar Pradesh, Ghughuti in Uttarakhand, Makara Sankranti in Odisha, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Goa, West Bengal where it is also known as Poush Sankranti, and as Sankranthi in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. Outside of India, it is known as Maghe Sankranti in Nepal and Tirmoori in Pakistan.
Makar Sankranti is set by the solar cycle and corresponds to the exact time when the sun enters the sign of Capricorn and usually falls on 14 January or 15 January during a leap year according to the Gregorian calendar.
Makar Sankranti is dedicated to the Sun God, Surya whose significance is traceable to the Vedic texts, particularly the Gayatri Mantra, a sacred hymn found in the Rigveda. It marks the termination of the winter season and the beginning of a new harvest season. From this day, the sun begins its northward journey or Uttarayan or the northern hemisphere and so the festival is also known as Uttarayan.
As per legend, Sankranti killed a devil named Sankarasur and so the day after Makar Sankrant is called Karidin or Kinkrant. On this day, she slew the devil Kinkarasur. As per another legend, the Sun God, Lord Surya forgave his son Shani who visited him on Sankranti. And that’s why people distribute sweets and urge everyone to let go of any negative or angry feelings. On this day people take a holy dip in rivers, especially the Ganga, Yamuna, Godavari, Krishna, and Kaveri because bathing in the rivers on this day is believed to result in merit or absolution of past sins. The Sun God is also prayed to and thanked for successes and prosperity. For most parts of India, this period is a part of the early stages of the Rabi crop and agricultural cycle, where crops have been sown and the hard work in the fields is mostly over. The time thus signifies a period of socialising and families enjoying each other’s company, taking care of the cattle, and celebrating around bonfires. On Makar Sankranti, people wear black which is otherwise a huge no-no on other festival days. As Sakranti falls in the winter months, wearing black adds to body warmth which is the reason for the colour.
In Assam, Makar Sankranti is known as Magh Bihu and the festival is marked by feasts and bonfires. Young people erect makeshift huts, known as Meji and Bhelaghar, from bamboo, leaves, and thatch, and in Bhelaghar they eat the food prepared for the feast and then burn the huts the next morning. celebrations also feature traditional Assamese games such as tekeli bhonga or pot-breaking and buffalo fighting. In Goa, people distribute sweets in the form of granules of sugar-coated sesame seeds among family members and friends and newly married women offer five sunghat or small clay pots filled with newly harvested grains, betel leaves areca nuts and tied with black beaded threads tied around them, to the deity. Uttarayan, as Makar Sankranti is called in Gujarati, is a major festival that lasts for two days. Kites made of special light-weight paper are flown and the festival is eagerly awaited.
In Haryana and Delhi, the festival is celebrated similarly to Western UP and the border areas of Rajasthan and Punjab. This includes ritual purification by taking a holy dip in rivers with sweets like kheer, churma, halwa and distributing a sesame and jaggery sweet called til-gud. Brothers of a married woman visit her home with a gift pack, called Sindhara or Sidha with gifts of clothing for her and her family. In Jammu, it is celebrated as Uttrain and is celebrated a day before Lohri by the Dogra community to commemorate the end of the Poh or Pausha month. Among the Dogras, there is a tradition of Mansana or charity of Khichdi of Maah Dal and that is why this day is also referred to as Khichdi wala Parva. There is also a tradition of sending Khichdi & other food items to house of married daughters and fairs are organised in holy places and pilgrimages are taken. In Karnataka, it is celebrated as Suggi and on this day, girls wear new clothes to visit near and dear ones with the Sankranti offering on a plate and exchange the same with other families in a ritual called Ellu Birodhu. The festival signifies the harvest of the season since sugarcane is predominant in these parts. Gifts are exchanged by women and newly married women give away bananas for five years to married women from the first year of their marriage. Kite flying, drawing rangolis, giving away red berries known as Yalchi kai are some of the intrinsic parts of the festival. In rural Karnataka, a display of decorated cows and bulls and their procession is done and they are also made to cross a flame and this custom is known as Kichchu Haayisuvudu. In Maharashtra, on Makar Sankranti day people exchange multicolored halwa and sweetmeats made from sesame seeds and jaggery known as til-gul laadoo. Married women invite friends and family and celebrate with guests given til-gul and some small gift, as a part of the ritual and women make it a point to wear black clothes on this day.
In Odisha, on the day of the festival, people prepare makara chaula and along with uncooked newly harvested rice, banana, coconut, jaggery, sesame, rasagola, Khai/Liaa and chhena puddings offer It to the Gods and Godesses. The Sun God at the Konark Sun Temple is worshipped with many starting the day with a ritual bath while fasting. In Puri special rituals are carried out at the temple of Lord Jagannath. In Punjab, Makar Sankranti is celebrated as Maghi which is a religious and cultural festival. Bathing in a river in the early hours on Maghi is important with Hindus light lamps with sesame oil as this is supposed to give prosperity and drive away all sins. A major fair is held at the Sri Muktsar Sahib on Maghi which commemorates a historical event in Sikh history. In Rajasthan and Western Madhya Pradesh, the day is celebrated with special Rajasthani delicacies and sweets. Women in this region observe a ritual in which they give a gift to 13 married women. The first Sankranti experienced by a married woman is of significance as she is invited by her parents and brothers to their houses with her husband for a big feast. Kite flying is traditionally observed as a part of this festival.
In Tamil Nadu, Makar Sankranti is celebrated as the four-day festival of Pongal with day one celebrated as Bhogi Pongal, day two as Thai Pongal, day three as Maattu Pongal and day four as Kaanum Pongal. On Maattu Pongal, many villages in the state will have a Jallikattu, or taming the bull, contest, which is an ancient Pongal tradition. In Uttar Pradesh, the festival is known as Kicheri and involves ritual bathing. Over two million people gather at their respective sacred places for this holy bathing such as Allahabad and Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh. In Uttarakhand, Makar Sankranti is known by various names in the different parts of the state. In the Kumaon region the festival is known as Ghughuti, Ghughuti Tyar, Ghughutia, Kale Kauva or Uttarayani with the famous Uttarayani fair held in Bageshwar town. During the fair, people bathe before daybreak at the confluence of the Saryu and Gomati rivers, followed by an offering of water to Lord Shiva inside the Bagnath Temple. Those who are more religiously disposed of, continue this practice for three days in succession, which is known as Trimaghi. On this day, people also give khichdi, a dish made by mixing pulses and rice in charity, take ceremonial dips in holy rivers, participate in Uttarayani fairs and offer deep-fried sweetmeats consisting of flour and jaggery to crows and other birds as a way to pay homage to the departed souls of their ancestors. In West Bengal, Sankranti is also known as Poush Sankranti. The freshly harvested paddy and the date palm syrup in the form of Khejurer Gur is used in the preparation of a variety of traditional Bengali sweets made with rice flour, coconut, milk and khejurer gur or date palm jaggery and known as Pitha. Goddess Lakshmi is usually worshipped on the day of Sankranti. In Darjeeling, the festival is as known as Magey Sakrati and is associated with the worship of Lord Shiva.
The Hindu Sindhi community in western regions of India and southeastern parts of Pakistan, celebrate Makar Sankranti as Tirmoori. On this day, parents send sweet dishes and ladoos and chiki or Laaee made of sesame seeds to their married daughters. In Bangladesh, Makar Sankranti is known as Shakrain and is observed with the flying of kites. In Nepal, Maghe Sankranti as it is known in the country, is celebrated as the new year and is a major festival of the Magar community. Observant Hindus take ritual baths during this festival and the oldest female in each household wishes good health to all family members.
So here’s wishing you a very Happy Makar Sankranti with a greeting from my home state of Maharastra which goes like this: “Til gud ghya, god god bola” which means eat the sweet made from sesame and jaggery, say good and positive thoughts and words and leave all the bitterness and negativity of the past behind.
One of those festivals which are rarely celebrated by many, Vaikuntha Ekadashi, which coincides with the Moksada or Putrada Ekadashi is a special Ekadashi that comes mostly once a year, but sometimes twice and is generally associated with Shukla Paksha or the 11th lunar day of the Margashirsha month in the Lunar calendar corresponding to the Dhanur month in the Solar calendar sometime between 16 December of the current year and ending on 13 January of the next year. Vaikuntha, which is paradise, is where there is no lack, or shortage; only abundance.
Ēkadashi which means the eleventh is the eleventh lunar day or tithi of each of the two lunar phases which occur in a Vedic calendar month, the Shukla Pakṣha or the period of the brightening moon also known as the waxing phase and the Kṛiṣhṇa Pakṣha or the period of the fading moon also known as the waning phase, according to the Vedic medical texts of Ayurveda and is mentioned in detail in many original treatises such as the Charaka Samhita and the Susruta Samhita.
In Hinduism or Sanatan Dharma, Ekadashi holds great importance. A favourite tithi of Lord Krishna, his devotees observe upavas or fasts to be closer to him. In Nepal and India, the day is considered a day to cleanse the body, aid repair and rejuvenation and is usually observed by a partial or complete fast. High protein and carbohydrate-containing foods such as beans and grains are not consumed during the fast as it is a day to cleanse the body, instead, only fruits, vegetables and milk products are eaten. This period of abstinence starts from sunrise on the day of the Ekadashi to sunrise of the following day with rice is not eaten at all during this 24-hour period.
Followers of Lord Vishnu or the Vaishnava believe that the gates to the Lord’s inner sanctum or the Vaikunta Dwaram is opened on this day with the Margashirsha Shukla Paksha Ekadashi in the Lunar calendar known as a Mokshada Ekadashi. Vishnu temples all across the world offer special prayers, yagnas, discourses and speeches. Those who follow Lord Shiva or the Shaiva sect observe the day as Trikoti Ekadashi, a day where all the deities in the Hindu pantheon pay obeisance to Lord Shiva at the same time.
According to the Vishnu Purana, fasting on Vaikuntha Ekadashi is equivalent to fasting on the remaining 23 Ekadashis of the year. However, according to the Vaishnava tradition, fasting is mandatory on all Ekadashis of both the Shukla and Krishna pakshas with fasting on an Ekadashi holier than any other religious observation. Because complete fasting has to be observed on Ekadashi, the meal on the Dwadashi or the 12th day is designed to be wholesome, nutritious, and filling. When observed, it is said to bestow liberation from the cycle of birth and death. On this day, the Vaikuntha Dwaram or the Vaikuntha Vaasal, the Gates of Vaikunta are believed to be kept open. The area encircling the sanctum is referred to as the Vaikuntha Vaasal and devotees throng this doorway to gain entry into the temple, to seek Lord Vishnu.
Legend says that Lord Vishnu opened the gate of his home, Vaikuntham, for two asuras or demons in spite of them being against him. They also asked for the boon that whoever listens to their story and sees the image of Lord Vishnu coming out of the door called Vaikunth Dwar, will reach Vaikunth as well. This is why temples all over India make a door kind of structure on this day for devotees to walk through.
According to the Padma Purana, the Devas, unable to bear the tyranny of Muran, a demon, approached Lord Shiva, who directed them to Lord Vishnu. A battle took place between Lord Vishnu and the demon and Lord Vishnu realised that a new weapon was needed to slay Muran. In order to take a rest and create a new weapon, Lord Vishnu retired to a cave for the Goddess named Haimavati in Badarikashrama. When Muran tried to slay Lord Vishnu, who was sleeping, the female power that emerged from him burned Muran to ashes with her glance. Lord Vishnu, who was pleased, named the goddess Ekadashi and asked her to claim a boon. Ekadashi, instead, beseeched Vishnu that people who observed a fast on that day should be redeemed of their sins and Lord Vishnu thus declared that people who observed a fast on that day and worshipped Ekadashi, would attain Vaikuntha. Thus, came into being the first Ekadashi, which was a Dhanurmasa Shukla Paksha Ekadashi.
The demon Muran stands for the Rajasic and Tamasic qualities in people, attributed to lust, passion, inertia and arrogance. When one conquers these tendencies, one attains the purity of mind or Satva which is indispensable for the attaining of moksha, the liberation or the realisation of the self. For realizing the self as pure awareness, purity of mind is required and fasting helps to keep at bay the tendencies that could be triggered by intake of certain foods. Keeping vigil in the night is symbolic of awareness, or being watchful of the contents of the mind. When the mind is looked at, it becomes still. To abide in the stillness is to attain freedom or peace, acquired through the merging of the mind with the self. This is symbolic of the mind automatically being absorbed in the sight of Vishnu after the arduous fast and vigil. The belief that rice is prohibited, because Muran dwells in it, symbolically signifies that the eating of rice makes one feel heavy and hampers the vigil. This signifies that entertaining negative tendencies could hamper one’s progress towards awareness or consciousness. Observance of the rituals on this auspicious day even without understanding their importance is beneficial. Hence the merit accrued through observing them with piety is believed to be immeasurable. In the Mahabharata, the conversation between Krishna and Arjuna at the beginning of the Kurukshetra War about the Bhagavad Gita is said to have occurred on this day.
At the Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple in Srirangam, the Srirangam Vaikuntha Ekadashi celebrations last 20 days, divided into two parts, the Pagal Pathu or the morning part lasting ten days and the Ira Pathu or the night part comprising the other ten days. Lord Vishnu as Lord Ranganatha Moolavar will bless devotees in Muthangi or armour of Pearls on all 20 days. On the 10th day of Pagal Pathu, which is the day before Vaikuntha Ekadashi, the Utsavar Namperumal will bless devotees in the Mohini Alankaram. Very early on Vaikuntha Ekadashi, the Utsavar Namperumal will bless devotees in the armour of diamonds and gems and is brought to the Thousand-Pillared Hall from the sanctum sanctorum through the northern gate known as the Paramapada Vasal, the gate to Vaikuntha. This gate is opened once a year, only on the Vaikuntha Ekadashi day. It is said that anyone who goes through the Paramapada Vasal will reach Vaikuntha. On the 8th day of Ira Pathu, the Namperumal will bless devotees in a Golden Horse Vahanam in the evening & the Thirumangai Mannan Vedupari Ritual will be held.
At the seven hills of Tirupati, the Tirumala Venkateswara Temple also has a similar concept to celebrate Mukkoti Ekadashi, as it is known in the region. Tirumala has a special entrance called Vaikuntha Dwaram that encircles the sanctum sanctorum. The dwaram or passage is opened only on Vaikuntha Ekadashi and it is believed that any person who passes through this Vaikuntha Dwaram on this particular day attains salvation. The temple witnesses a heavy inflow of pilgrims and dignitaries for Vaikuntha Ekadashi and all Arjitha sevas are cancelled on this day and only the Sarva Darshanam is allowed on Vaikunta Ekadashi.
On the auspicious day of Vaikuntha Ekadashi, which falls tomorrow, chant the Lord’s name, visit the temple and try and enter the Vaikuntha Dwar at a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu and keep a fast if that is possible.
Nalgonda Located about 100 km southeast of Hyderabad, Nalgonda used to be known as Nilagiri and was renamed to Nalgunda during the reign of the Bahmani Kingdom and to Nalgonda during the rule of the Nizams of Hyderabad. The name Nalgonda is derived from a combination of two Telugu words, Nalla and Konda meaning the Black Hills. There is archaeological evidence that Paleolithic people lived in the area with some of their implements found in the Nalgonda area, similar to those discovered at the Sloan archaeological site in Arkansas. Traces of Neolithic culture were found at Chota Yelupu, where sling stones and other contemporary objects were excavated. Evidence of Megalithic culture was also found via the discovery of innumerable burials at various places around Nalgonda. The political history of Nalgonda commences with the Mauryas. During the reign of Ashoka, the Great, the Mauryas maintained control over the Nalgonda region. Later, the Satavahanas ruled between 230 BC and 218 BC and during this period, the region established trade contacts with the Roman Empire. In the year 227, the Ikshvaku dynasty took control of the region and it was during this period when members of various Saka tribes migrated to the area and Buddhism flourished. After the Ikshvakus, the Pallavas and Yadavas fought for supremacy over the region. However, after Samudragupta invaded and conquered most of India, the area fell under the control of his Gupta Empire which fell in the 6th century. From the 6th century, the Chalukya dynasty ruled this region, as well as much of southern and central India and a major portion of the area, appears to have passed from the Chalukyas of Badami to the Rashtrakutas which fell in 973, and power shifted to the Chalukyas of Kalyani who continued to rule until the end of the 12th century. After this, the Kakatiya dynasty took control from the western Chalukyas and during the reign of Prataparudra II, in 1323, the kingdom was annexed to the Tughluq Empire and during this period, the region was annexed to the Bahmani Kingdom after which it was conquered first by the Mughals and then the Asaf Jahi dynasty.
Panagal is an important village located 3 km from the main city and in the 11th, century served as the capital of the Kakatiya Dynasty. The village has many temples with two most sought-after Shiva temples namely the Chaya Someswara Swamy Temple and Pachala Someswara Temple. The Chaya Someswara Swami temple is adorned with 66 pillars and a huge Nandi sculpture right in front of the central mandapa and is detailed with intricate sculptures displaying episodes from Mahabharata and Ramayana. There are also several other sculptures of Gods and Goddesses dating back from the 1st century to the Ikshvaku dynasty.
Mattapalli or Mattampalli is a small quaint village on the banks of the River Krishna and is renowned for its Narasimha Swami Temple. Counted as one of the Pancha Narasimha Kshetras out of a total of five, this beautiful temple is dedicated to Sri Yogananda Lakshmi Narasimha Swami, Sri Chenchu Lakshmi Thaayar and Sri Rajya Lakshmi Thaayar. Established by the King of Thangeda, the temple attracts devotees in large numbers during the festivals of Vykunta Ekadasi and Kalyana Mahotsav celebrated in January and May respectively.
Nestled at the confluence of the Rivers Musi and Krishna, Vaadapalli is a quaint village that is renowned for its famed Sri Venkateswara Swamy Temple and its annual celebration of the Brahmotsavam Festival. The presiding deity of the temple is also referred to as Kalyana Venkateswara.
A small village of great religious as well as archaeological significance, Nandikonda is nestled along the banks of River Krishna near the Nagarjuna Sagar Dam. The village was once the home to the Ikshvaku dynasty, but today, Nandikonda is the site of several important Buddhist excavations and structures that were unearthed during the establishment of the town.
The world’s largest masonry dam protected by 26 gates measuring 14 m in height and 13 m in width, the Nagarjunasagar Dam, built across the River Krishna has a storage capacity of nearly 11,472 million cubic meters with an irrigation capacity for 10 acres of land. Lying about 152 km southeast of the city, the dam is 150 m tall and 16 km in length. It is among the first irrigation projects started by the Indian government as part of the green revolution. Today, it is also a source of hydroelectricity and the dam attracts a large number of tourists offering captivating views of the cover of dense green surrounding it. The best time to visit the dam is between October to February and there is an entrance fee of INR 20 for an adult and INR 15 for a child. Visitors can boat on the dam on all days of the week except Fridays at 9 am, 11:30 am and 1:30 pm.
Located about 150 km southwest of Nalgonda and a hidden gem untouched by industrialisation, Mallela Theertham falls from a height of about 150 feet. The fall is a meandering one surrounded by lush green trees adorned with blooming flowers. It is believed that several sages performed penance here to please and worship Lord Shiva who was content with their prayers and penance appeared in front of them. The dense forest of Mallela Theethram is rich in flora and fauna with a large number of wild animals here with bears and tigers easily spotted near the waterfall. There is a Shiva Lingam on the top of the waterfall which locals believe to possess magical powers. One needs to trek down about 300 steps to get to the falls. The falls are open daily from 8 am to 5 pm and there is an entrance fee of INR 10 per person with INR 20 as a cark park fee.
Surendrapuri is a theme park spanning an area of 3 km and is also known as the Mythological Awareness Centre. Located near Yadagirigutta, it was created by Kunda Satyanarayana to commemorate the memory of his son Surendra. Surendrapuri aims to promote interest in Indian mythology with the park filled with sculptures and carvings that showcase the episodes of the Bhagavatha, Ramayana, Mahabharata and other Puranas. The park has recreated a mini world of every important mythological event, temple and the seven portals of the Vishnulok. Locally known as Kunda Satyanarayana Kala Dhamam, it also gives one the opportunity to worship all the deities of the major pilgrimage centres in India.
The Bhuvanagiri Fort is a majestic structure that was constructed in 1076 by Tribhuvanamalla Vikramaditya VI, a Chalukya ruler. Sprawling over an area of 40 acres, the fort is nestled atop of a hill nearly 500 feet above ground level. Renowned for its geometric structure, the fort is oval-shaped and comprises two entry points and is bastioned with fosse making it impregnable. There are also underground chambers, secret weapon caches, trap doors and stables. Two ponds and some deep wells are also found within the premises of the fort and situated at the entrance is an idol of Sardar Sarvai Panappa, a one-time ruler of the fort as well as the monarch of the Goud community. Visitors need to take the stairway or trek along the steep path to reach the fort. The fort is open all days from 10 am to 5 pm and the entrance fee for adults is INR 10 and INR 5 for children.
Believed to be the abode of Lord Narasimha, Yadagiri Gutta is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Located around 86 km north of Nalgonda, Yadagiri Gutta is also known as the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple. Lord Narasimha is known here as a Vaidya Narasimha or doctor, and it is believed that he cures anyone visiting the temple of any chronic or longstanding disease. The temple complex is made of stone and it spreads over an area of 14 acres and has gorgeous views because it is set atop a hill. The temple boasts of a Dravidian style of architecture and lies inside a cave about 12 feet high and 30 feet long. A stairway leads down to the chamber where the deities are manifested into the walls. One will see Jwalanarasimha in the shape of a serpent and Yogananda Narasimha resting in a meditating pose. Next to the temple, towards the right, is another temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. A long horizontal gap, just below the deity of Hanuman, is where the Gandebharanda Narasimha manifested. The temple is open from 4 am to 9:45 pm daily.
A popular Jain shrine, the Kolanpaku Jain Temple or Sri Shwethambar Jain Mandir is located in Kolanpaku village about 100 km north of Nalgonda, close to the ancient town of Aleru Mandal. The temple features the idol of three Jain Tirthankaras, Lord Mahaveera, Lord Neminath and Lord Adinath and 21 other idols of Theerthankaras. Crafted out of red sandstone and with pillars of white marble, the temple was renovated in the early 2000s by the Jain communities of Rajasthan, Andhra Pradesh, and Gujarat.
A popular Buddhist site, Phanigiri is situated about 62 km from Nalgonda and comprises of a Buddhist complex adorned with a massive Stupa along with two apsidal halls with stupas in them. Two large footprints found in the complex are believed to belong to Lord Buddha. The place also houses three viharas which once served as the dwelling for the monks with the viharas lying on the hilltop known as the Serpent’s Hood Hill which derives its name from its shape.
Bhadrachalam An important pilgrimage town, Bhadrachalam is located about 312 km east of Hyderabad on the banks of the Godavari River. The town has a documented history of the Lord Sri Rama temple that was constructed in the 17th-century y Kancherla Gopanna, popularly known as Bhadradri Ramadasu or Bhadrachala Ramadasu, a 17th-century Indian devotee of Rama and a composer of Carnatic music. There are several temples connected with the epic Ramayana around Bhadrachalam. The Sri Sita Ramachandra Swamy Temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, depicts all incarnations of Lord Vishnu in its intricate wall carvings. Also, found in the temple are some idols that one does not see every day. At the temple, one can find an enthralling idol of Lord Rama with a bow, depicting both Lord Vishnu and Lord Rama at the same time. Another rare sight here is the idol of Lord Ram and Goddess Sita, where Goddess Sita is sitting on his lap. Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, the Abhaya Anjaneya Swamy Temple is a recent beautiful addition that is usually crowded on Tuesdays. Built in 1998, the highlight of the temple is said to be the sculptures, which though crafted by cement, appear as though are made of wood. The temple has an entry fee of INR 10 per person and is open daily from 5:30 am to 12 noon and then again between 5 to 9 pm.
Parnasala is a popular village, about 32 km from Bhadrachalam on the banks of the River Godavari. It is said one can find the footprint of Lord Rama here. A small hut in Parnasala consists of beautifully painted sculptures of Lord Rama, Goddess Sita and Lord Lakshman. It was believed that in the 14th year of exile, Lord Rama, his wife and brother stayed in this village which is also known as Shoka Rama as it depicts the sorrowful mood of Lord Rama. The village depicts the sadness of Lord Rama when the demon king Ravana kidnapped Goddess Sita. There are footprints around the town depicting the traces of Lord Rama’s stay as well as footprints of the golden deer and wheels of King Ravana’s chariot in which he kidnapped Goddess Sita. Dhammakka, also known as Sabari was a tribal woman and a great devotee of Lord Rama who was granted salvation by Lord Rama. Hence, Sabari took the form of a river, which later joined the River Godavari before joining the Bay of Bengal. Every year in October, a Sabari Smruti Yatra takes place which celebrates the devotion of Sabari to Lord Rama. During this festival, Adivasis or tribals from different communities, clad in traditional attire come together in Bhadrachalam to participate They perform traditional performances like the Kommu Koya accompanied by loud drumbeats and offer fruits and flowers from their traditional habitat to the deity. Adivasis youth sport distinctive headgear while demonstrating a spectacle of bows and arrows, symbolising their expertise in archery.
Koti Linga A pilgrimage site, Kotilingala is located on the banks of the Godavari River and is well known for the Koteswara Siddeswara Temple about 217 km northeast of Hyderabad. Archaeological discoveries at Kotilingala indicate that it was an important town during the period of the Assaka Mahajanapada and the Satavahanas. Nestled in the lap of nature, amidst hills and lush greenery, it is considered one of the 16 great Janapadas and remains especially crowded during the festival of Mahashivratri. The word Koti means many or several, while Linga in scriptures is used for lord Shiva and so the name of the place means a place devoted to Lord Shiva.
Kotilingala’s archaeological site has a mud fort with several gates 1054 metres long and 330 metres wide. There is a watchtower located in the south-eastern corner and ancient pottery, beads, bricks querns, and other artefacts have been found at the site. A lot of punch-marked coins attributed to the 2nd and 3rd centuries have been found issued by Gobhada and Samagopa, believed to be local pre-Satavahana rulers. The mud fortification, protected by a stream on its east and the Godavari River on its west, indicate its high political and commercial significance and suggests the existence of long-distance trade. The Sri Koteswara Siddheshwar Swami Devasthanam Temple attracts several pilgrims throughout the year and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Set against a beautiful backdrop, the temple lies in Velgatoor Mandal, near Koti Lingala approximately 3 km from the main road. Photography is not allowed inside the temple. The temple is located inside the Koti Lingala Fort which is made of mud and dates to the 2nd and 3rd centuries. There are several gates to the fort as well as a watchtower at the fort constructed during the reign of the Satavahana dynasty. Boating facilities have also been started from the bank of the Godavari with two tourist boats with a capacity of 50 and 35 seats. The fare is INR 50 for adults and INR 30 for children.
Somasila 170 km south of Hyderabad, Somasila is a small village known for the Sri Lalitha Someswara Swamy Temple. Believed to have been built during the 7th century, it is dedicated to Lord Shiva with the temple festival, celebrated once every 12 years a major draw during which the Pushkara Snanam, a dip in the Krishna River is considered auspicious. It is home to 15 temples, all housing Shivalingas which were shifted from the old Somasila village to higher land to protect it from being submerged in the waters of the Krishna. A local favourite for picnics, Somasila is popular with pilgrims from Karnataka and Maharashtra. Other than the Lalitha Someswara Swamy Temple, other important temples in Somasila include the Venkateswara Swamy Temple, the Veerabrahmendra Swamy Temple, the Sangameswara Temple, built in the middle of the Somasila Reservoir which can only be visited in April and May only, when the water levels are low as the temple is submerged otherwise. Today, there is boating facilities in the reservoir and a museum displaying idols of Gods, sculptures.
Vemulawada An ancient historical and famous pilgrimage town, about 150 km north of Hyderabad, Vemulawada is famous for the Sri Raja Rajeswara Swamy Temple, constructed between 760 and 973. It also has ancient temples of Bheemeswara, Nagareswara and Pochamma close to the main temple and was the capital of the Vemulawada Chalukyas, who ruled present-day Telangana, parts of Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Maharashtra between the 7th and 10th centuries. The town attracts a large number of pilgrims from South India as well as Maharashtra, Odisha and Chhattisgarh, especially during the festivals of Mahashivaratri and Sri Rama Navami. The famous floral festival of Telangana, Bathukamma is believed to have originated from this place. Vemulawada is often referred to as Dakshin Kashi and southern Benaras and was previously known as Lemulavatika and Lembulavade. Local folklore say that Lord Shiva resided at Vemulawada after his stays at Kashi, Kedareswar and Chidambaram, explaining the strong influence of Lord Shiva over the temples and the town. The best time to visit Vemulawada is during the months of February to April, these are usually the months Mahashivratri and Ram Navami so you might be able to see all the celebrations and festivities during your visit.
The Raja Rajeshwara Swamy Temple is the main temple at Vemulawada and is also known as the Dakshin Kashi temple. The presiding deity here is Sri Raja Rajeshwara Swamy, known as Rajanna among the locals and is accompanied by idols of Goddess Sri Raja Rajeshwary Devi and Sri Laxmi Sahitha Siddhi Vinayaka. The temple also has a shrine of Lord Rama and Lord Krishna which are placed within smaller temples within the same premises. What is unique about this temple is that the main premises also house a mosque. Devotees make a unique offering to Rajanna called Kode Mokku wherein the devotees perform pradakshina or circumambulation around the temple with a bull. The main temple also has a water tank that the devotees can take a dive in before offering their prayers to the deity as it is said to cleanse one of their sins. The temple is open from 6 am to 9 pm daily.
The Bhimeswara Swamy Temple was built by a Chalukya King Baddega and is easily walkable from the Raja Rajeshwara Swamy Temple. Also dedicated to Lord Shiva, it is not as popular as the Raja Rajeshwara Swamy temple, which means one can commune with the Lord in peace. The temple, built in the Nagara style has not been renovated much, allowing one to appreciate this style of architecture.
Built by a Rashtrakuta King Baddiga Bhupathi, the Baddi Pochamma Temple is an ancient Sitala Devi temple referred to as Baddi Pochamma by the locals and is also dedicated to Pochamma Devi, a local village deity. The devotees offer Bonams to the goddess during Ram Navami and a huge procession is carried out from the Rajanna temple to the Baddi Pochamma temple, where devotees carry stacks of Bonam or decorative pots that they stack on their heads and walk up to the Badi Pochamma Temple and make their offerings.
Located at Nampally Gutta, the Lakshmi Narasimha Temple is situated atop a small hill along the Vemulawada Karimnagar Highway. The presiding deity at the temple is Lakshmi Narsimha, said to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu with the idol made of a single piece of stone and the temple built around the idol instead of the conventionally done way. The temple can be accessed by a stairway with roughly a few hundred steps and there is a temple dedicated to the snake god, the Naga Devtha temple was constructed to appear like a snake on the way to the temple. Visitors enter the temple through the snake’s belly.
And this brings us to the end of our sojourn through the state of Telangana. Watch this space for another state soon.
Khammam Also known as Khammamett, Khammam is the fourth largest city in Telangana, located about 193 km east of the state capital, Hyderabad. The river Munneru flows on the western side of the city. The city was previously called Stambhadri, Kambhadri, Kambham Mettu and Khammam Mettu, which was also anglicised to Commomet and Khammammet. The present name of the city has been derived from a local hill known as Stambhadri. According to legend, the Narsimhadri temple situated here on a hilltop is said to have existed for the last 1.6 million years from the time of the Treta Yug, with the city deriving its name from the vertical rock that acts as a pillar or Khamba below the temple.
According to legend, the Narsimha Swami or the Narsimhadri temple, situated on a hill called Stambhadri, is said to have existed since the last 1.6 million years with the city deriving its name from the vertical rock that acts as pillar or Khamba below the temple. The temple is open daily from 5 am to 1 pm and then between 5:30 to 7:30 pm. Initiated in 950 and completed by 1000, the Khammam Fort depicts both Muslim and Hindu architectural styles. Today, a major tourist destination, the fort, built by the Musunuri Nayaks completed 1000 years of existence and has no entrance fee. Jammalapuram is a quaint village situated about 83 km southeast of Khammam with the village housing many temples but the main temple or the Jammalapuram Temple is of Swami Venkateshwara who’s the presiding deity of the village. Nelakondapalli is an ancient Buddhist centre located about 20 km southwest of Khammam. Situated at the crest of the Deccan, the Sri Venkateshwara Swamy Temple is widely known as the Telangana’s Tirupati and was renovated by the Vijayanagar empire. The Bhaktaramadas Dhyana Mandiram is a meditation centre dedicated to the memory of Sri Bhakta Ramdas, who was born in the town. The Buddhist Maha Stupa which dates back to 350 BC was excavated in 1976 and is 54 ft tall with a radius of 106 ft. The Palair lake situated in Palair village, about 30 km from Khammam is a man-made lake and a major source of fresh water to the district. Recently it has become a popular picnic spot with water-based sports and recreational activities here.
Sprawling over almost 635 sq km, the Kinnersani Wildlife Sanctuary is nestled amidst the Dandakaranya Forest and is flanked by the River Godavari. Besides a variety of endangered flora, it is also home to many species of chousinghas, sambar, wild boars, gaurs, chinkara, cheetals, hyenas, and sloth bears. According to an old tale, Lord Rama spent some days of his exile here with the area originally known as the Dandakaranya forests of the Tretayugam, some of which are Parnasala, Rekapalli and Dummugudem. It was declared a sanctuary in 1981. The sanctuary gets its name from the Kinnerasani River which is a part of Telugu poetry and literature and which cuts through hills and valleys and then finally drains into the Godavari River. The Kinnerasani Lake lies at the heart of the sanctuary has several perennial springs known as Togus which are easily spotted. The Kinnerasani Dam stands opposite the Kinnerasani sanctuary. There is a beautiful deer park where one can see the common deer as well as the spotted deer as well as an Eco Park near the dam. There is an Environmental Education Centre in the sanctuary with large sculptures of wild animals with descriptive boards containing information on the animals. Cars and two-wheelers are allowed in the forest area with permission from the forest authorities needed. One can also take an on-foot safari, where one can walk along with the sanctuary with a forest instructor. There are several watchtowers as well in the premises of the sanctuary. There is a lake at the centre of the park where one can enjoy a ride at the Kinnerasani Lake and see the water birds. The boating facility is not available year-round and is available during certain seasons. The sanctuary is open between 7:30 am and 8:30 pm daily.
Karimnagar The fifth-largest city and the third largest and fastest-growing urban settlement in Telangana, Karimnagar is situated on the banks of the Manair River, a tributary of the Godavari River. Serving as a major educational and health hub for the northern districts of Telangana, it is a major business centre and widely known for its granite and agro-based industries and so is also called the city of granite. It is located 163 km northeast of Hyderabad.
Karimnagar was originally called Elagandala. Later Kannada kingdoms such as the Western Chalukyas ruled it and then it became part of the Satavahana Empire. When the Nizams of Hyderabad ruled the city, the name was changed to Karimnagar, which was derived from the name of Shahenshah E Karimnagar Syed Kareemullah Shah Quadrii Nithinvasi and is known for its confluence of Telugu and Persian cultures. Be it the picturesque Lower Manair Dam and the Mallareddypet waterfalls or the humanmade Nampally Gutta, Karimnagar has plenty of charming venues and activities for its visitors. It is also famous for its heritage sites such as Gandhi centenary Museum. Karimnagar is a must-visit destination for anyone looking to relive the bygone era.
Some of the popular tourist attractions include Mathani Reserve Forest, Deer Park, the Crocodile Conservation Park, Elagandal Fort and the Mallareddypet Waterfalls. The Lower Manair Dam is one of the biggest dams in the state with boating facilities. The Ujwala park and the Deer Park are near the dam with a cable bridge under construction on the Maner River.
Adilabad Famous for its cotton cultivation, Adilabad is also referred to as the white gold city and is located about 305 km north of the state capital, Hyderabad and is frequently known as the Gateway to South India. Earlier known as Edlabad during the rule of Qutub Shahis, Adilabad derives its name from the erstwhile ruler of Bijapur, Muhammad Yusuf Adil Shah. Adilabad was ruled by many dynasties like the Kakatiyas, the Mauryas, the Satavahanas, the Chalukyas, the Qutub Shahis, the Asaf Jahi’s and the Gond Rajas of Sirpur and Chanda.
At Mahatma Gandhi Park, one can relax and unwind because it is bound by lush green plants and trees. There is a statue of Mahatma Gandhi installed in the park which has a separate section for children. The Park is open between sunrise and sunset and has no entrance fees. Constructed over the Kadam River, the Kadam Dam is located where the River Godavari merges with the River Kadam. Constructed between 1949 and 1965, the dam’s main purpose is to provide water for irrigation. Also known as the Godavari North Canal Project, the dam is located in the midst of greenery, offering scenic views to its visitors. The Jainath Temple is built in the Jain style of architecture and is located 21 km from Adilabad in Jainath village. The temple is renowned for its Prakrit stone inscribed with 20 slokas that suggest that the temple was built under a Pallava chief. The temple is especially busy between the Karthika Sudda Ashtami and the Bahula Saptami. The Lord Lakshmi Narayana Swami Temple located close by is also a major shrine. Dedicated to Lord Papahareshwar Swami, one of the forms of Lord Shiva, the Kadile Papahareshwar Temple is a very famous temple. According to the legend behind the temple, Lord Parashurama, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu performed penance here and surrendered to Lord Papahareshwar after beheading his mother to get rid of his sins. The temple is also known for its Shiva lingam that is installed within its premises. The Gnana Saraswati Temple is dedicated to the Goddess of learning, Gnana Saraswati. The temple is situated at the confluence of the River Godavari and the River Mangira in Basar and is an architectural marvel of the Chalukya dynasty. Believed to be the oldest temple of Goddess Saraswati in India, it is said that the sage Ved Vyas performed penance at the temple and as per legend, he used to make idols of Goddess Lakshmi, Kali and Saraswati with sand here. Situated on the banks of the River Godavari, the Gudem Satyanarayana Swamy Temple is dedicated to Lord Satyanarayana, the God of Truth. Devotees flock to the shrine during the month of Karthika with a dip in the River Godavari is taken by devotees to perform the Satyana. Located near Adilabad in Koneru, the Kalwa Narsimha Swamy Temple is a major temple with devotees visiting the temple feast on the day of Vana Bhojanam where meals are served to pilgrims sitting under the tree. The temple chariot that carries the idol of the god can also be found around the temple premises and there is a children’s park in the proximity of the temple. The temple is open daily between 5 am to 11:30 am and then between 4 to 9 pm. The St. Joseph Church is a famous church and is noted as the best cathedral church in the state. Kala Ashram was established by Ravindra Sharma where visitors can witness various traditional arts, technology and science. Visitors can also attend workshops and performances organised by the ashram related to a fading art form of Bhiksha Vruttis and also has books based on social issues based on rural society.
Gayatri Falls is a beautiful cascading waterfall over the River Kadem colloquially known as Gadidha Gundam or Mukti Gundam. The waterfalls are secretly tucked in between the deep woods of the Tarnam Khurd village and are popular for their beautiful scenic views and panoramic vistas. It also offers moderate to challenging trekking opportunities and is best visited during monsoons. The lesser-known Gayatri waterfalls is usually visited with the Pochera and Kuntala Falls situated in close vicinity. The best time to visit the beautiful waterfall is during peak monsoon. It takes a 5 km trek to get to the fall from Tarnam Khurd village and it is advisable to take a local from the village as a guide. The Kanakai Waterfalls located in Girnur village is an impassable 30 feet cascade of water streams descending from a cliff into a large pool at the bottom of the falls. An excellent trekking location with panoramic views, the falls are a perfect setting for a relaxing timeout from one’s hectic schedule. The best time to visit the waterfall is during the peak monsoon months. Regarded as one of the most scenic waterfalls in Telangana, the Kunthala Waterfalls is situated amidst the gorgeous Sahyadri mountain range. The highest waterfall in the state, it plunges from a height of 150 feet with the fall originating from the Kadam River known for its picturesque forests. According to legend, the waterfall is named after Shakuntala, who was believed to have fallen in love with king Dushyant here and who used to bathe in the fall. Since Gond tribes live here, the waterfall’s name is derived from the world Kunta which means pond in both Gondi and Tamil and the word Kuntalu means multiple ponds, as the waterfall is created by the confluence of several ponds which drains from the river. There is a 10–15-minute climb to reach the falls. Located 37 km from Nirmal, the Pochera Waterfall is the deepest waterfall of Telangana. With the white waters powerfully plummeting from the height of a whopping 20 meters, the bed of the Pochera waterfall is entirely made from the purest form of granite which gives the waterfall a slight emerald tinge. The falls are best visited during the monsoons or immediately post-monsoon.
Situated in old Adilabad, the Kawal Wildlife Sanctuary is famous for its enormous variety of flora and fauna with the Kawal wildlife sanctuary tiger reserve having a rich and varied population of cheetahs. Established in 1965, the sanctuary was declared as a protected area and before becoming a reserve, it was the hunting grounds of the Nizams. The Wildlife Reserve also serves as a catchment area for the River Kadam, a tributary of the River Godavari. After being declared a wildlife reserve, the area was divided into six ranges: Kadam, Pembi, Jannaram, Indanpally, Tadlapet, and Birsaipet and was declared a tiger reserve in 2012. The sanctuary is a corridor that connects the northern forests of Telangana and the forests of Maharashtra which in turn are connected to the forests in the Vidharba region. The sanctuary houses a wide variety of plant and animal species with the animals tending to come out to open areas during colder months and this is why the best time to visit it is between November to May.
The Pranahita Wildlife Sanctuary is a protected area of the Deccan Plateau that is spread across an area of 136 sq km. The sanctuary is flanked by dense forest with the Pranahita River flowing through which provides an excellent source of water. The area is also rich in diverse vegetation as well as wildlife species.
Lying on the banks of River Godavari, the Shivaram Wildlife Sanctuary was established in 1987 and is famous for its marsh crocodiles, also known as mugger crocodiles. Spread over 36.2 sq km, the sanctuary is home to a variety of flora and fauna. It is open daily from 6 am to 6 pm and there is no entry fee.
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Mahbubnagar Located in western Telangana, about 100 km southwest of Hyderabad, Mahbubnagar is the seventh most populous city in the state. Also known as Palamooru, Mahbubnagar used to be known as Rukmammpeta in ancient times.
About 29 km from Mahbubnagar, the Koilkonda Fort is in ruins today but makes for wondrous sight. One has to pass through a weathered canyon to reach the hilltop where the fort stands and pass through seven gates to reach the fort. Located 26 km from the town, Khilla Ghanpur is an ancient hilltop fort that once was part of the Vijayanagar empire. There are freshwater pools in the fort which locals, even today, use to swim and bathe. Peppered across the nearby villages, the Megalithic Burial Sites are rock shelters that haphazardly display art from the Neolithic period. The Pillala Marri Tree is a 700-year-old banyan tree that has the tomb of a Muslim saint beneath it as well as an ancient Shiva temple, a mini zoo, an aquarium as well as an archaeological museum. The tree is located about 4 km from the city. Translating to the Big Lake, Pedda Cheruvu is a scenic still water lake that is a local favourite to unwind and to picnic. The lake also serves as a shortcut to cross the city. A nursery-cum-park, Mayuri Hatham Vanam’s greenery is the perfect pause to a hectic day. Located about 23 km from Mahbubnagar, the Sri Ramakonda Temple at Koilkanda is mired in the legend surrounding its origins and features. It’s believed that a piece of the Sanjivini Hill fell over the region, leading to the establishment of this temple. Legend also say that Lord Rama visited the spot with Goddess Sita and rested on a particular rock which even today visitors meditate upon. Located in Maganoor, not far from Mahbubnagar, the Sri Swayambhu Lakshmi Venkateswara Swamy Temple is a shrine to both Goddess Lakshmi and Lord Venkateswara Swamy. It is believed that the presence of this temple allows the crops around the region to flourish and averts natural disasters.
Medak The town of Medak lies about 80 km north of the state capital of Hyderabad and was originally known as Methukudurgam or Methuku, which translates to grain in Telugu due to the growth of rice here. Spread over 130 sq km, the Pocharam Wildlife Sanctuary was set up in 1952 on what was the hunting grounds of the then Nizam. Named after the Pocharam Lake formed after the Pocharam Dam was constructed on the River Allair between 1916 to 1922, the sanctuary is a scenic beauty with all the surrounding hills. The Pocharam Wildlife Sanctuary provides a trekking trail that stretches over 4.5 km and passes through thick forest growth and makes up for a thrilling experience. Apart from the wildlife, there is a lot of greenery in the sanctuary as well as green vegetation with the treetops populated with migratory birds. The sanctuary is home to many species of animals and birds. There is a watchtower in the middle of the jungle from where one can get a bird’s eye view. The sanctuary is open between 8:30 am and 5:30 pm and will cost a visitor INR 300 which includes the entry fee and the services of a guide. Built in the Gothic Revival style, the Medak Cathedral is the single largest diocese in Asia and one of the most gorgeous and striking churches in India. It is believed that mosaic tiles of six different colours were used in the construction of the church were imported from Britain. The church is open from 7 am to 1 pm and then between 2 to 6 pm on weekdays while on Sundays, it is open from 6 am to 6 pm. Medak Fort is a popular tourist attraction, originally constructed by the Kakatiya Kings and later developed by the Qutb Shahi kings. In ruins today, the fort is open between 9 am to 5 pm daily. The ancient temple of Kuchadri Venkateshwara Swamy at Kuchanpally is a popular centre of the worship centre.
Memories and Such 
