Some People Need Killing: A Memoir of Murder in My Country – Patricia Evangelista
“My job is to go to places where people die. I pack my bags, talk to the survivors, write my stories, then go home to wait for the next catastrophe. I don’t wait very long.”
Journalist Patricia Evangelista came of age in the aftermath of a street revolution that forged a new future for the Philippines. Three decades later, in the face of mounting inequality, the nation discovered the fragility of its democratic institutions under the regime of strongman Rodrigo Duterte.
Some People Need Killing is Evangelista’s meticulously reported and deeply human chronicle of the Philippines’ drug war. For six years, Evangelista chronicled the killings carried out by police and vigilantes in the name of Duterte’s war on drugs—a war that has led to the slaughter of thousands—immersing herself in the world of killers and survivors and capturing the atmosphere of fear created when an elected president decides that some lives are worth less than others.
The book takes its title from a vigilante whose words seemed to reflect the psychological accommodation that most of the country had “I’m really not a bad guy,” he said. “I’m not all bad. Some people need killing.”
After exploring Luzon and Visayas, we now turn to the conflict ridden southern part of the Philippines called the island of Mindanao. The island of Mindanao, which is the Philippines’ second-largest, is home to a sizeable Muslim population, the skyscraper-clad city of Davao, the highest peak in the Philippines – Mount Apo, at 2,954 meters above sea level – and a lack of development that makes this diverse region perfect for the intrepid traveler. Most governments advise caution anywhere on Mindanao and suggest avoiding several areas. Keen surfers can head to the stunning island of Siargao, off the north coast of Mindanao, where you’ll find the Cloud 9: a world-renowned reef wave known for its thick hollow tubes. It’s because of this that the annual Siargao Cup is held here. Other beautiful islands include Camiguin, with a turquoise lagoon, flour-white sand, colonial ruins, and even a hot spring. The city of Zamboanga, on the peninsula of the same name, has colonial history and – of course – beaches under its belt. Just offshore is the intriguing island of Santa Cruz, famous for its pink sand beach.
Siargao Its short coastline facing the Pacific Ocean has few family-friendly beaches, but that doesn’t stop international travelers from converging on Siargao and its challenging surfing spots. Siargao was “discovered” by the outside world in the 1970s, and has long been a “secret” known only to locals and surfers till very recently. The surfing spot known as Cloud 9 boasts a ferocious reputation, its powerful waves and rocky bottom shredding backsides and egos on a regular basis. The island’s taken a more family-friendly turn as of late, helped along by a hit movie and breathless word-of-mouth. While this 170-square-mile island denies “the next Boracay” title, the new resorts and tours around the island capitalize on other fascinating features such as the Magpupungko tidal pool and the white-sand beaches on outlying islands – Naked Island (actually a sandbar); Guyam Island and Daku Island.
Surigao del Sur Sure, it may not be a household name, but don’t sleep on Surigao del Sur. After all, it is home to two of the most prominent attractions in Mindanao – Tinuy-an Falls and Enchanted River. Plus, it has a burgeoning beach paradise – Britania Islands.
Davao Davao is the main gateway and major metropolis in Mindanao. As the youngest city among the three (Manila, Cebu City and Davao), Davao stands next to a largely unspoiled marine and forest habitat; this access to the mountains and the sea makes Davao one of the Philippines’ top spots for adventure travel. A number of animal reservations also maintain communities of endangered species, and are well worth a visit – the Philippine Eagle Center breeds and maintains a population of Philippine Eagles (Pithecophaga jefferyi), and the privately-owned Monfort Bat Sanctuary on Samal Island maintains a community of fruit bats.
Camiguin Camiguin, aptly labeled as the “Island Born of Fire”, is a fascinating island-province brimming with volcanoes like Mount Uhay, Mount Hibok-Hibok, Mount Vulcan and Mount Mambajao. As a matter of fact, Camiguin holds the record for the island with most number of volcanoes for every square kilometer in the world. But, make no mistake about it – there is more to this small Philippine province than its volcanic riches. After all, it is a secluded destination that boasts a plethora of natural wonders, including refreshing waterfalls, cold and hot springs, and an untouched sand bar. Plus, it has plenty of other intriguing attractions to offer to its visitors as well, including the infamous sunken cemetery, well-preserved ancestral homes and centuries-old churches. And, did we mention that it is the host to the Lanzones festival – one of the most popular, dynamic and anticipated festivals in the Philippines?
Lake Sebu Why should you pay a visit to Lake Sebu? While Lake Sebu is not as famous as Boracay and Palawan, it’s nonetheless a charming and lush destination with a burgeoning tourism industry. One of the most underrated places to visit in the Philippines, Lake Sebu is home to a cluster of striking waterfalls and extremely clean lakes. Not to mention, a visit to this destination will give a taste of the wondrous culture of the Ubo and T’boli tribes.
Iligan Iligan is home to many of the Philippines’ most beautiful waterfalls including Tinago Falls, Maria Cristina Falls, and remote Limunsudan Falls (the highest two-tiered in the Philippines).
Cagayan de Oro Cagayan de Oro, the largest city in Northern Mindanao, is a convenient hub for tourists visiting nearby Bukidnon and Camiguin Island. It’s also the adventure capital of the Philippines! This city is famous for its white water river rafting, river tubing, paragliding, nature parks.
I hope you enjoyed reading about interesting places to visit in the Philippines as much as I loved researching and writing it. This mini series of blog posts has made me sure that this amazing country will soon get a visit from me!
Set between Luzon in the north and Mindanao to the south, the Visayas region is characterized by being home to many, many islands; stunning white sand beaches and blooming corals are par for the course here. Nearly every part of the region has some fine beaches along its coasts, some fine diving areas including many coral reefs teeming with life, and some interesting historic buildings, mostly from the Spanish colonial period, in the cities and some towns. Most of the larger islands have mountains near the center, most of them volcanic in origin though few are active now
Eastern Visayas is where you’ll find the cosmopolitan Cebu City. Situated on the island of the same name, it’s the most important city in a region not known for its urban centers. Instead, nature abounds. Bohol, for example, is known for its picture-perfect Chocolate Hills – a landscape of relatively small, brown conical hills. Here is also where you’ll find easygoing beaches and coastal dive spots.
Western Visayas, Boracay, with its white beaches, resorts, and fiesta atmosphere, is a simultaneously lively and stunning place to visit. There’s also Romblon Island and Apo Island, with their world-class diving sites, and Malapascua – a tiny paradise island perfect for getting away from it all.
Cebu Cebu is an island province in the Philippines, consisting of the main island itself and 167 surrounding islands. Its capital, Cebu city, nicknamed ‘The Queen City of the South’ is the oldest in the Philippines, and home to the nation’s second international airport. The city is a smaller but similarly busy version of Manila, with many of the same urban benefits of new, old, cutting edge and cultural. One advantage that Cebu has is Matcan island, featuring a premiere dive site that is a short drive from an international airport. Another diving gem, the island and resorts of Malapascua, is about a four hour drive to the port town of Maya, and then must be accessed by boat. It is well worth the trip, however, as it is often considered the number one dive site in the country. The Spanish came here to Cebu first via Mexico, and remade the place and its people in their image. Their influence can still be felt in the Basilica Minore de Santo Niño, where a glass-covered niche holds a precious statue of the Christ Child that commands countless devotees throughout Cebu. This devotion reaches its peak during the Sinulog Festival (pictured here) that takes place in the middle of January every year. The rest of the city overlays 21st-century modernity onto an older stratum of churches, ancient museum-lined streets like Calle Colon, and street food stops like Fuente Osmeña. The waters around Cebu are known for their biodiversity; famous dive spots around the area, like Sumilon Island and Moalboal, attract thousands of experienced divers every year. And you don’t even need a PADI certificate to experience the swim of a lifetime; the far-flung town of Oslob lets you snorkel with the whale sharks. Cebu’s southern side has a deluge of outdoor thrills, nature trips, beaches and waterfalls to keep a traveler busy for a week or even a couple of months. Beach lovers will be put into a state of euphoria with the clean and sparkling shorelines of Alcoy and Aloguinsan. Diving connoisseurs, meanwhile, will get a chance to meet and greet the friendly giants of Oslob as well as relish Moalboal’s kaleidoscopic marine life. Those who are on fond of extreme adventures will find their bliss by scaling the rocks and jumping off the cliffs and waterfalls in Badian. The fun, however, doesn’t stop there. Take a trip to the city of Carcar, and admire its old heritage houses and structures. While there, don’t forget to sample their well-known delicacies, such as the crispy chicharon and the ultra tasty lechon.
Camotes Want to get true taste of the laid-back island life in the Philippines? Head off the grid on the islands of Camotes – a couple of hours east of the city of Cebu. Just bring some extra cash since there are no ATMs on these places to visit in the Philippines.
Malapascua Island A small island made up of quiet fishing villages, Malapascua Island is popular for its ideal diving spots and for being the only place in the world to see thresher sharks on a regular basis as well as manta rays and hammerheads. The other hidden gems here are the beautiful, sandy white beaches, crystal clear waters bordered by coconut trees and colorful coral gardens.
Boracay If you’re in the Philippines to party, then head straight to Boracay. The island’s famous White Beach – its 2.5 miles of powdery white sand lined with a raucous collection of resorts, restaurants, bars and one shopping center known as “D’Mall” – reaches a massive party frenzy during Christmas, Holy Week and the International Labor Day weekend referred to by Filipinos as “LaBoracay”. Practically unknown and inaccessible prior to the 1980s, Boracay is now easily reached via plane and boat from around the Philippines and the rest of Southeast Asia. If you’re looking for something else to do than gulp down shots into the wee hours, Boracay obliges with plenty of other activities, from ATVing to parasailing to golf. In the low season between June to October, windsurfing fanatics take over the other coast’s Bulabog Beach, turning the skies above it into a flurry of color. Endless white sand beaches, colorful outrigger sailboat rides, and beautiful resorts grace this island that has been consistently in the top three beaches in the world by travel review sites. The most populous region of Boracay is the central part of White Beach, which has the most opportunities for food, adventure, shopping, and public merriment. Moving further away, more remote options are available, but they come with reduced amenities. Lodging ranges from budget shacks to high-end full-service resorts, but the white sand beaches, turquoise water, and romantic ambiance are open to all.
Bohol The huge orange eyes and tiny fingers of the miniscule tarsier serve as the spokesmodel for the island of Bohol. Just a short trip from Cebu, this area is one of the few remaining homes for this tiny primate. Long known for the subtly erotic “Chocolate Hills”, the sleepy island of Bohol has managed to develop a travel reputation of its own that not even a massive earthquake could topple. The Chocolate Hills are unusual geological formations that consists of at least 1,268 individual mounds scattered throughout the interior of the island of Bohol. The almost symmetrical and same-sized formations range from 98 to 164 feet (30 to 50 meters) high and are covered in green grass. During the dry season the grass turns brown, hence the name. There is no consensus on how these giant mole hills were formed. One theory holds that the Chocolate Hills are the weathered rock formations of a kind of marine limestone on top of an impermeable layer of clay. The karst limestone that gave Bohol its Chocolate Hills also gave it its clean, winding rivers; its gorges made for ziplining and rappelling through; and the white-sand beaches of nearby Panglao. The unique geologic oddity of the chocolate hills serves as the second draw for the non-divers to the region. The unique mogul-like hills come with a legend of being formed by the rocks thrown by an angry giant. Most of the visitors to this region are, however, here to partake in the breathtaking dive opportunities that the region has to offer. It is the jumping off point for the marine reserves off of Pangalo and Pamlican islands.
Siquijor One of the last frontiers of the Philippines, the island of Siquijor benefits from gorgeous beaches, verdant jungle and a reputation for witchcraft. The beaches don’t have the crowds of Phuket or Boracay, but they’re amazing sights nonetheless: Kagusuan Beach and Paliton Beach offer white-sand swimming and excellent snorkeling with less beach touts to worry about. Other natural features abound on the island, such as the cascading Cambugahay Falls and the mysterious Llihan Cave. Siquijor’s culture remains devoutly Catholic with an occult underside. After visiting the 200-year-old coral churches like the San Isidro Labrador Church in Lazi, you can visit a local “mambabarang” (witch doctor) who can brew love potions and curses on demand. Siquijor, dubbed as one the most mysterious places to visit in the Philippines, is a serene cove that is believed to be a breeding ground for witches, sorcerers and even mythical supernatural creatures. Although everyone knows that these rumors are not true, many still think that it is an island drenched in mystery and magic. Nevertheless, folks who come to this place will be mesmerized by the beauty of its waterfalls, parks and beaches like the Kagusuan Beach and Salagdoong Beach.
Samar With tons of caves mapped and explore on this island, it’s no wonder extreme outdoor adventure junkies are calling Samar as the country’s caving capital. Langun Gobingob Caves – the country’s largest caving system, is found in Samar as well, specifically in Calbiga. This cave system is so huge that it can easily fit a trio of soccer fields. So, if you want to add a spice of adventure to your life in 2019, make it a point to include Samar on your places to visit in the Philippines this year.
Northern Samar Dramatic rock formations, cloistered coves, and untouched beaches await travelers who visit Northern Samar, which is one of the most undervalued gems and places to visit in the Philippines. Biri Island, the undisputed star in the province’s burgeoning tourism, will delight you with its incredibly beautiful and jaw-dropping rock formations. But, there’s more to Northern Samar than this beloved island. Try to discover the island’s neighbors, and you will surely be rewarded with heaps of wonderful surprises along the way.
Kalanggaman Island Kalanggaman Island, the crown jewel of Leyte, is a supremely beautiful sand bar that is fast becoming one of most sought-after places to visit in the Philippines. In fact, it’s becoming so gorgeous that countless of international cruise ships would make a stopover on this long, immaculate white sand bar.
Manjuyod Sandbar Manjuyod Sandbar isn’t dubbed as the “Maldives of the Philippines” for nothing. With clear waters and a stretch of majestic white sands, this enthralling sandbar will definitely make you feel that you are standing in one of the premier beach destinations in the world. Additionally, it has cottages that seem like they are floating on blue shallow waters, adding more flavor and Maldivian atmosphere to this sandbar. As an added plus, a visit here gives you an opportunity to spot a cluster of dolphins and whale sharks.
Iloilo City For an unforgettable culinary experience in the Philipines, head to the city of Iloilo and appease your gastronomic cravings to a wide array sumptuous treats, including La Paz Batchoy and Pancit Molo. More than just a culinary paradise, this city is also drenched in history and culture, teeming with intricate historic sites, like Molo Church, Plaza Libertad, Museo Iloilo and Jaro Cathedral. Not to mention, it’s a gateway to another splendid beach destinations in the Philippines – Guimaras Island.
In the next blog post, we will explore Mindanao, the last island division of the Philippines
Pampanga The province of Pampanga north of Manila once had a reputation for being more Spanish than the Spanish. As a result, their embrace of the colonial way of life led to their unique architecture, cuisine, and culture: distinctly Latin with a local twist. This makes Pampanga a must-see stop for foodie travelers, who can make the province one stop in a culinary itinerary of the Philippines’ top eats, or as part of a dedicated trip to eat the best of Kapampangan food. Pampanga is also (in)famous for Mount Pinatubo, which exploded in 1991 and buried several towns in ash. The volcano has since fallen dormant, and locals now manage treks up to the crater and its scenic crater lake.
Tagaytay The Taal volcano that sits majestically above the town of Tagaytay is a combination of active and extinct craters that create a beautiful tapestry of must-sees. This is the second most active volcano in the Philippines and is another must-see places in the country. Lake Taal is nestled inside the old Taal volcano crater, and the central island for the lake is the currently active volcano craters, which can be seen steaming on certain days. Those who have never seen the pristine waters of a crater lake in person will be astonished at their pristine beauty. The long town of Tagaytay sits along this ridge, and is known for being clean, laid back, and a haven for foodies. Tourist attractions in town include the Punta de Santiago lighthouse, St Anne Shrine, and the large local flower farm. With its soothing ambiance and breath-taking overlooking views, it’s no wonder Tagaytay is often named as one of the most gorgeous places to visit in the Philippines. To make things even better, it’s just a short ride away from the capital city, Manila.
Batanes Batanes, one of the dream places to visit in the Philippines for local travelers, is a surreal haven that promises to give you a slice of heaven of earth. Famed for its sheer natural beauty and distinct landscapes, this remote wonderland leaves its beholders in awe with its majestic lofty cliffs, rolling hills, boulder-lined shores and deep canyons. In addition, this paradisiacal place flaunts a myriad of sturdy and historic stone houses.
Vigan For the ultimate throwback adventure in the Philippines, visit Vigan – the country’s first and only Unesco World Heritage city. A visit here will give you a wonderful glimpse of the intriguing colonial past and culture of the country. From Spanish-styled houses to a 17th century Augustinian cathedral, Vigan has an old-world charm that will charm you totally. A visit to the Crisologo St region of this town is like a step back to colonial times. Horses pull carts along cobblestone streets, and dark-wood mansions flank the sides, as a reminder of the grand life that many enjoyed in this colonial Spanish trading post. At the time, many goods like beeswax and gold were traded to China for exotic Asian items. Today, the main income for this port is tourism, though the splendour from its trading history remains. Vigan has two hearts, a shopping centre in the North, and a business district in the South. Tourists will enjoy the museums that have been created from several mansions, St Paul’s Cathedral, and the Mestizo district.
Palawan If you can only visit one destination in the Philippines, then make sure it is Palawan! The “world’s best island” makes up the “arm” of the Philippines, a 260-mile sliver running southwest to northeast along the archipelago’s western flank. Wherever you land on that “arm”, you’ll find Paradise, though expressed in different ways. One of the best places to visit in the Philippines, Palawan is an island province that stretches from Mindoro to Borneo between the South China and Sulu seas. Puerto Princesa, which is close to large karst formations with an underground river, is the provincial capital. Coron Reefs on Busuanga Island is a popular diving spot, drawing divers who want to explore Japanese shipwrecks from World War II. Another popular destination is El Nido, a town sandwiched between towering limestone karst cliffs and the beautiful Bacuit Bay. Then there’s Coron at the northern extreme of the island: site of a World War II wreck dive site and bucket-list worthy beaches and lagoons. The Tubbataha Reef in the Sulu Sea is a marine sanctuary protected as the Tubbataha Reef National Marine Park. The reef is made up of two atolls, North Atoll and South Atoll, separated by a deep channel of approximately 5 miles (8 km) wide. It has become one of the most popular dive sites in the Philippines because of its coral walls where the shallow coral reef abruptly ends giving way to great depths. The marine park is open to live-aboard diving excursions between the months of April to June when the waves are most calm.
Legazpi The city of Legazpi is a short air hop from Manila, but could not be more different in character. With a surfeit of wide-open spaces, access to the sea, and endless avenues to adventure, Legazpi makes the most out of its proximity to Mayon Volcano, whose perfect cone can be seen from anywhere in Legazpi. Spend half the day ATVing up Mayon’s slopes, splashing through creeks and past massive boulders set down by recent Mayon eruptions. You can then spend the rest of your stay exploring the other side of Legazpi – eating their famously spicy food or gazing at centuries-old churches that have somehow survived Mayon’s fury over the ages.
Mayon Volcano Rising more than 8,000 feet (2,400 meters) above sea level, Mayon Volcano is significant for its perfectly symmetrical cone shape. Visitors can enjoy a number of activities here such as camping, climbing, hiking, bird watching and photography. A picturesque spot in which to admire Mayon Volcano is from the nearby Cagsawa ruins. Mayon is the most active volcano in the Philippines, having erupted over 49 times in the past 400 years. The most destructive eruption of Mayon occurred on February 1, 1814 bombarding the nearby towns with volcanic rocks. The belfry and what is left of the baroque church that was destroyed by the 1814 eruption can still be seen.
Donsol Located in the province of Sorsogon, a place of pristine beaches, stunning waterfalls and unexplored caves, the sleepy fishing village of Donsol is the place in the Philippines to see whale sharks. They like tropical waters, which makes Donsol Bay a great habitat for them. The ocean’s gentle giants can be seen between November and June, with the numbers peaking between February and May. This huge fish is not shy about approaching boats; indeed, some carry scars from encounters with propellers. Tourists can also take a boat cruise along the Donsol River through mangrove and palm trees, and watch the night light up with millions of sparkling fireflies.
Mindoro Mindoro is an island that consists of two different regions, Mindoro Oriental and Mindoro Occidental, which are separated from one another by a high mountain range. The north of the region is mostly remote, and home to the primitive Mangayan tribe. This trip is well worth it for divers, however, as the town of Sablayan is the doorway to the island of Pangan and the pristine Apo Reef Marine Natural Park. There is only one resort on the island, so reservations are recommended. In Mindoro Oriental, the main tourism location is the town of Puerto Galera. This is the ideal beach town, with resorts and white sand beaches for the water lovers, as well as jeep trips, orchid-filled rainforests, kayaking rivers and waterfalls for the trekkers in the group. A large island to the south of Calabarzon, Mindoro is an unspoiled place to explore in easy reach of the Philippine capital. It’s made up of Mindoro Oriental in the east and the more rugged Mindoro Occidental in the west, both separated by towering mountains in its centre. On the east side, the most popular place on the island is Puerto Galera, home to resorts and beaches galore. There are also dive sites and forest trails to places like the famous Tamaraw Falls, where you can swim in its cooling pool. Just north of here is Sabang Beach, whose coral-filled waters are brimming with marine life. The more remote west side of the island is home to places like Sablayan, where almost no tourists go. It’s the place to go to feel a particularly untouched natural side to the Philippines.
Sagada Sagada is 3 hours away from Banaue. Tourists are encouraged to go here from Banaue during daytime as transportation might be quite difficult during the night. It is famous for the hanging coffins, rice terraces, lakes, and rich heritage and culture. It is also a popular spot for locals during the holy week, as a pilgrimage.
Baguio City After visiting Banaue and Sagada, you might want to go on a trip to Baguio City, the Summer Capital of the Philippines. It is a famous place for its temperature, beautiful views, and of course, strawberries! Try to visit during the month of February because it is when the month-long Panagbenga Festival is celebrated! The Panagbenga Festival is also known as the Flower Festival and it is the most awaited festival in Baguio City. You can experience dancing on the streets with large flower costumes and loud music.
Subic One of the most adventurous places in the country, Subic should be in your list of places to visit in the Philippines. They are famous for their Zoobic Safari, where you can experience the country’s very own African adventure. You just have to pay for the entrance fee and enjoy taking pictures of the animals. They also offer a closer look at tigers while riding a safari jeep. You can also feed the tigers for another fee. If you are traveling with a child, you should also check Ocean Adventure. Have fun with the kids watching dolphin and sea lion shows.
Catanduanes Nicknamed as the “land of the howling winds”, Cantaduanes is a typhoon-prone province that will sweep you away with its serene mountain tops, scenic grasslands, strong ocean breeze and towering cliffs. As with Batanes, Catanduanes flaunts plenty of historic sites and Instagrammable rock formations.
Mount Pulag Mount Pulag is a real instagram worthy place to visit in the Philippines. You can treat yourself to majestic vistas of the famous sea of clouds and Milky Way Galaxy at daybreak.
Bontoc For years, Bontoc has been overshadowed by its incredibly popular neighbors – Banaue and Sagada. But the good news is, Bontoc is slowly making waves, and is getting some spotlight as well as love from intrepid travelers. One of the most underrated places to visit in the Philippines, Bontoc will sweep you off your feet with its enthralling sights, such as Mount Fato, Mount Kupapey and Maligcong Rice Terraces.
One of the countries with the most happy, cheerful and contented people I have seen, the archipelago of the Philippines, consists of about 7,641 islands that are categorized broadly under three main geographical divisions from north to south: Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. The capital city is called Manila and the most populous city is Quezon City, both part of the larger Metro Manila. Bounded by the South China Sea on the west, the Philippine Sea on the east and the Celebes Sea on the southwest, the Philippines shares maritime borders with Taiwan to the north, Japan to the northeast, Vietnam to the west, Palau to the east, and Malaysia and Indonesia to the south.
The arrival of Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese explorer leading a fleet for the Spanish, in Homonhon, Eastern Samar in 1521 marked the beginning of Hispanic colonization. In 1543, Spanish explorer Ruy López de Villalobos named the archipelago Las Islas Filipinas in honour of Philip II of Spain. With the arrival of Miguel López de Legazpi from Mexico City, in 1565, the first Hispanic settlement in the archipelago was established. The Philippines became part of the Spanish Empire for more than 300 years. This resulted in Catholicism becoming the dominant religion. During this time, Manila became the western hub of the trans-Pacific trade connecting Asia with Acapulco in the Americas using Manila galleons. As the 19th century gave way to the 20th, the Philippine Revolution quickly followed, which then spawned the short-lived First Philippine Republic, followed by the bloody Philippine–American War. The war, as well as the ensuing cholera epidemic, resulted in the deaths of thousands of combatants as well as tens of thousands of civilians. Aside from the period of Japanese occupation, the United States retained sovereignty over the islands until after World War II, when the Philippines was recognized as an independent nation. Since then, the unitary sovereign state has often had a tumultuous experience with democracy, which included the overthrow of a dictatorship by a non-violent revolution.
The Philippines has only 2 seasons- wet and dry season. During March to May and even up to June, the weather is hot and humid. From June to November, expect the weather to be rainy and cold. Wet season can start as early as May. The best time to visit the country is around December – January when the weather is not so hot and sultry. The peak season though is the dry and hot season between March and May, when some of the popular beaches experience surges in tourist arrivals, which consequently mean that accommodation prices are jacked up!
The country boasts of some spectacular beaches in addition to other historical town and cities. I have been to Manila a couple of times on work visits, but have not ventured much into the city as well as visited other regions in the country. This country has remained on my bucket list for a while now and hopefully, I aim to visit more soon. The only issue I personally would have would be the lack of vegetarian food in the Philippines. My business trips to Manila made me acutely aware of this problem, but I will make sure I have supplies the next time I visit.
This mini-series will explore each one of the islands in detail in each blog post, starting with the northernmost island division of Luzon (which will be divided into two parts), followed by Visayas and then lastly the southernmost island division of Mindanao.
Luzon Luzon is the largest and most populous island group in the Philippines. Located in the northern portion of the archipelago, it is the economic and political centre of the nation, being home to the country’s capital city, Manila, as well as Quezon City, the country’s most populous city and contains about 52.5% of the country’s total population.
The Luzon island group includes the Luzon mainland, the Batanes and Babuyan groups of islands to the north, Polillo Islands to the east, and the outlying islands of Catanduanes, Marinduque and Mindoro, among others, to the south.
Northern Luzon The northern region of the most populated island in the Philippines is where you’ll find mountains, coastlines, tropical forests, and rivers. No sight in this area is more famous than the stunning Banaue Rice Terraces; located near the popular, relatively cool-weather city of Baguio, these terraces are like emerald steps down the hills of the Cordillera Mountains. These share their name with the fascinating and diverse Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR). Further north, in the same mountains, is the area of Sagada, famous for its caving – such as at Sumaguing Cave – and hiking trails amidst misty mountain villages. Find more hiking opportunities in Kalinga Province, with its tattooed, machete-wearing tribespeople; headhunting ceased here just decades ago. Flung off the northern coast of Luzon, nearer to Taiwan than the Philippines, are the Batanes Islands. Here you’ll find rugged cliffs, green hills and half-subterranean, typhoon-proof houses on the main island of Batan.
Central Luzon Just north of Metro Manila, the region of Central Luzon is known as the rice granary of the Philippines. It’s the largest flat plains area in the country, so there’s plenty of room for agriculture here. There is some elevation, however. The active volcano of Mount Pinatubo in the Zambales Mountains provides hiking opportunities, where keen trekkers can reach the summit and catch sight of its crater lake. Minlungao, with its winding river, is a popular spot for cliff diving or laid-back rafting. On the west coast, the city of Balanga, Bataan province, boasts colonial architecture, old-world splendor at The Plaza Hotel, and a festival to honor the hatching of baby sea turtles at the Pawikan Conservation Centre. Once the capital of the Philippine Republic, Angeles is comparable to Manila, with shopping, nightlife, and colonial history; it’s also the gateway to the Mount Arayat National Park. Surrounded by rice paddies, Mount Arayat boasts valleys and rivers.
Southern Luzon The southern end of the island of Luzon is made up of two regions: Calabarzon, bordering Metro Manila to the north and east; and the Bicol Region, comprising offshore islands, too. Calabarzon is popular thanks to its proximity to Manila. At Laguna Lake, you can find hot spring resorts, particularly around Mount Makiling. To the south, Batangas province is where you’ll find many beachside resorts and towns scattered with colonial-era churches and buildings. In Batangas, the town of Tagaytay is home to Taal Lake, in the middle of which is Taal Volcano, whose crater hides yet another lake! Made up of six provinces, Bicol is where you’ll find limestone caves, beaches and a whole host of islands to explore. The symmetrical, almost perfectly conical Mount Mayon, near Legazpi City, is a sacred, active volcano. Elsewhere you’ll discover rough, jagged terrain on the Caramoan Peninsula, the gateway to beaches and lush scenery.
Most travellers will start their exploration of the country and Luzon from the capital city of Manila.
Manila The Asian megacity of Manila is the capital of the Philippines and a unique blend of the old and the new. From the tall gleaming skyscrapers of the commercial areas of Makati to the old and historic buildings from the Philippines colonial era of Intramuros and old Manila, Manila is, but a microsm glimpse of what a traveller can expect in this country. The city is a blend of its Spanish and American colonial past as well as its indigenous cultures and the immigrant Chinese cultures, all which today present the Filipino identity. Metro Manila is a megalopolis of an urban area. It is composed of 16 cities all converging into one: City of Manila, Quezon City, Caloocan, Las Piñas, Makati, Malabon, Mandaluyong, Marikina, Muntinlupa, Navotas, Parañaque, Pasay, Pasig, San Juan, Taguig, and Valenzuela (and one municipality: Pateros). Located on a narrow isthmus between Central and Southern Luzon, Metro Manila is the center of culture and government for the Philippines. The collection of settlements is pockmarked with Spanish colonial architecture, like the inner walled city of Intramuros, which is filled with Spanish-era architecture including the Manila Cathedral, Fort Santiago and the San Augstin Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as mixed with skyscrapers; the City of Manila itself is the most densely populated city proper in the world. Though the vast green space of Rizal Park with its lawns and gardens is a tranquil oasis in the city, it’s also on the shores of Laguna Lake – the Philippines’ largest freshwater lake – and Manila Bay in the east. The riverside forest park of Arro Cerros and Ayala Triangle Gardens make for good urban retreats, too. Beat the tropical heat & shop at Manila’s massive malls. The Metro Manila is home to many of the World’s largest malls including the ever-expanding Mall of Asia, expected to grab the #1 spot by 2021. You can find exciting food and a bustling nightlife scene in cosmopolitan Makati and Bonifacio Global City (BGC) as well as new entertainment districts in the Manila Bay area. Using Manila as a base, you can make day trips to the nearby Corregidor Island, waterfalls in Laguna, Tagaytay/Taal Volcano, Antipolo (view overlooking Metro Manila skyline) & more.
Puerto Galera Just south of Manila is the charming coastal town of Puerto Galera, well-favoured for its gorgeous beaches, excellent diving spots and wide diversity of marine species. The most popular beaches are White Beach and Sabang Beach, which also offer nearby shopping, dining, nightlife and hotel accommodation. Another popular attraction is the natural harbour of Muelle Bay with its rows of shops, restaurants and bars. Visitors can also go snorkelling to see some of Asia’s best coral reefs or dive among old shipwrecks and hundreds of fish species.
Banuae and Cordilleras’ Rice Terraces The mountainous terrain of the Philippines’ Cordilleras kept the Spanish colonizers away, allowing the Ifugao of these parts to keep their unique culture alive. Today, buses regularly ply the treacherously curvy roads leading into Banaue – you can now take a nine-hour bus ride from Manila into the mountains, going where conquistadores feared to tread. This top Philippine tourist spot is now featured on the Php 1,000 note. The agricultural engineering system represented here was built 2000 years ago without modern tools by the Ifugao tribes and passed on from generation to generation, these magnificent farm terraces resemble giant steps reaching up to the sky. Though the serene and impressive flats would be enough to make this a must-see, the spectacular wood-carved rice guardians make the trip even more worthwhile. The ancient, crude sculptures are reminiscent of tikis, and believed to protect the crops from harm. Though tourism has brought the Western world to an ancient way of life and created a large tourist market here, there are opportunities to visit less touristy towns whose rice crops are still the main staple of their economy for those seeking a more authentic experience. Hike around the UNESCO World Heritage sites and you’ll find a way of life that revolves around rice. You’ll also walk some pretty challenging hiking trails that plunge steeply down mountainsides and right alongside sheer cliff faces. Don’t forget to look around you – the sight of the rice terraces surrounding you will be one you will cherish long after you are back home.
We will cover more of the Philippines and especially Luzon in the next blog post
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Memories and Such 
