The fascinating and revealing story of Frater’s journey through India in pursuit of the astonishing Indian summer monsoon.
On 20th May the Indian summer monsoon will begin to envelop the country in two great wet arms, one coming from the east, the other from the west. They are united over central India around 10th July, a date that can be calculated within seven or eight days.
Frater aims to follow the monsoon, staying sometimes behind it, sometimes in front of it, and everywhere watching the impact of this extraordinary phenomenon. During the anxious period of waiting, the weather forecaster is king, consulted by pie-crested cockatoos, and a joyful period ensues: there is a period of promiscuity, and scandals proliferate. Frater’s journey takes him to Bangkok and the cowboy town on the Thai-Malaysian border to Rangoon and Akyab in Burma (where the front funnels up between the mountains and the sea). Alexander Frater’s fascinating narrative reveals the exotic, often startling discoveries of an ambitious and irresistibly romantic adventure
Blue Sky Kingdom: An Epic Family Journey to the Heart of the Himalaya – Bruce Kirkby
Bruce Kirkby had fallen into a pattern of looking mindlessly at his phone for hours, flipping between emails and social media, ignoring his children and wife and everything alive in his world, when a thought struck him. This wasn’t living; this wasn’t him. This moment of clarity started a chain reaction which ended with a grand plan: he was going to take his wife and two young sons, jump on a freighter and head for the Himalaya.
In Blue Sky Kingdom, we follow Bruce and his family’s remarkable three months journey, where they would end up living amongst the Lamas of Zanskar Valley, a forgotten appendage of the ancient Tibetan empire, and one of the last places on earth where Himalayan Buddhism is still practiced freely in its original setting.
Richly evocative, Blue Sky Kingdom explores the themes of modern distraction and the loss of ancient wisdom coupled with Bruce coming to terms with his elder son’s diagnosis on the Autism Spectrum. Despite the natural wonders all around them at times, Bruce’s experience will strike a chord with any parent—from rushing to catch a train with the whole family to the wonderment and beauty that comes with experience the world anew with your children.
The Old Patagonian Express: By Train Through the Americas – Paul Theroux
A witty sharply observed journey down the length of North and South America.
Beginning his journey in Boston, where he boarded the subway commuter train, and catching trains of all kinds on the way, Paul Theroux tells of his voyage from ice-bound Massachusetts and Illinois to the arid plateau of Argentina’s most southerly tip.
Sweating and shivering by turns as the temperature and altitude shoot up and down, thrown in with the appalling Mr Thornberry in Limón and reading nightly to the blind writer, Borges, in Buenos Aires, Theroux vividly evokes the contrasts of a journey ‘to the end of the line’
Panchkula A planned city, Panchkula lies on Haryana’s border with Punjab and is part of the Chandigarh capital region or Greater Chandigarh. The Chandigarh-Mohali-Panchkula metropolitan region collectively forms a Chandigarh Tricity, with a combined population of over 2 million. Panchkula lies about 48 km north of Ambala. It forms a part of an adjoining area to the Chandigarh, Mohali and Zirakpur and is about 4 km southeast of Chandigarh. It is a planned city like Chandigarh, with a sector system. The city hosts the Chandimandir Cantonment, the headquarters of the Western Command of the Indian Army.
The origin of the name Panchkula is derived from the local word panch which means five and kula which means canals and so Panchkula is the city of five canals, possibly referring to the five irrigation canals that distribute water from the Ghaggar River and pass through the Chandimandir Cantonment area to the Mata Mansa Devi Mandir area.
The Ramgarh Fort, with the tallest door in the country, was built by Raja Ram Chander, the ruler of Kahlur State, the headquarter of which was in Bilaspur in Himachal Pradesh. The king of Bilaspur built the Ramgarh Fort about 360 years back and in 1687, its rulers offered Guru Gobind Singh a horse, a sword and Rs 500,000 when he was relocating his troops from Paonta Sahib to Anandpur Sahib after the Battle of Bhangani. In the 1750s, it eventually fell to the status of a fief under the Sirmur State but became independent in 1804. Located on the top of a hill with amazing views of the Shivalik Hills, the fort is today run as a heritage hotel.
The Mata Mansa Devi temple is dedicated to the Goddess Mansa Devi, a form of Shakti. The temple complex is spread over 100 acres and is one of the prominent Shakti Pitha temples of North India. Thousands of devotees visit the shrine from various parts of the country, especially during the Navratra fair when the number rises to hundreds of thousands of devotees every day for nine days. The Patiala temple, constructed in 1840 by the Maharaja of Patiala lies within the Mansa Devi temple complex. Nada Sahib is a Sikh Gurudwara located on the banks of the Ghaggar-Hakra River in the Sivalik Hills.
Also known as the Yadavindra Gardens, Pinjore Gardens are about 20 km from Panchkula and cover a total area of 100 hectares. It is a beautiful Mughal Garden from the 17th century. The gardens are a good illustration of terrace gardens in India. Pinjore Garden is designed in the Charbagh Pattern and is built in the traditional Mughal style. The area is designed to have terrace gardens, grand pavilions and beautiful fountains with a total of seven terraces in the garden that are built descending into a distance. There is also an open-air theatre at the end of the garden as well as a central watercourse that flows in the middle of every level, shimmering fountains, several other pools and arched balconies amidst colourful and fragrant flowerbeds and lush green lawns. The seven terraces have several architectural structures that have been built on each level. The first terrace is the highest that has a palace built in the Mughal-Rajasthan style of architecture called the Shish Mahal. There is also a Hawa Mahal on this level. The second level has arched doorways along with the painted palace or the Rang Mahal. The third level only has flower beds and cypress trees leading to the orchards. The fourth level has the palace of water, the Jal Mahal, with a platform to rest and a fountain bed. The next two levels have more trees and fountains, and the last level has the open-air theatre. During Baisakhi, between April and June, the Garden serves as the venue of the annual Mango Festival. There is also a mini zoo, an area dedicated to historic places, a serene Japanese garden, a splendid nursery and some areas that serve as picnic spots. Many believe that the Pandava brothers rested her for a while during their exile. The best time to explore the gardens is in the evening when it is lit up after sunset. The Pinjore Heritage Festival is celebrated every year in December as a tribute to the Mughal Gardens when the gardens are illuminated with lights and evening performances are arranged and competitions are held. The Kaushalya Dam is an earth-filled barrage dam on the Kaushalya river in Pinjore. It is an important wetland that is home to many endangered migratory birds.
The National Cactus and Succulent Botanical Garden and Research Centre is a 7-acre cactus garden that was established in 1987 and is known for its rare and endangered species of Indian succulent plants. This is the largest cactus garden in the world.
The Khol Hi-Raitan Wildlife Sanctuary is located about 18 km east of Panchkula and was notified as a wildlife sanctuary on 10 December 2004. It is spread over an area of 4.9 sq km as well as a 1.3 sq km eco-sensitive zone around the sanctuary. The Khol Hi-Raitan and Bir Shikargah Wildlife Sanctuaries are only 3 km from each other, as the crow flies and both are also only a few km away from the Kalesar National Park, all of which lie in the Shivalik Hills. All these sanctuaries have similar species of wild animals. The Bir Shikargah Wildlife Sanctuary is located about 19 km from Panchkula and is spread over an area of 1.9 sq km. It also houses Vulture Conservation and Breeding Centre and was notified as a wildlife sanctuary on 29 May 1987. It was declared an Eco-Sensitive Zone or ESZ, as a result of which development would not be permitted within a 5 km radius.
Morni Hills An offshoot of the Shivalik Hills, Morni Hills lies about 20 km east of Panchkula. The hills were named after Queen Morni, who is said to have ruled this city. Haryana’s only hill station, Morni Hills is a popular picnic and weekend destination for locals and tourists alike. The hills are 1,220 m in height and have some stunning views to offer. In addition to being a grand vista point, Morni Hills is also an important archaeological site where carvings dating back to the 7th century have been found in the Thakur Dwar Temple. It is also a great place to engage in trekking and birdwatching.
There are two lakes here as well which are interconnected despite the existence of a hillock in between, such that the water level in both of them remains the same. The lakes are believed to be auspicious and are a focal point during celebrations. The lake has a boating facility that will take one on a tranquil excursion across the hills. The remains of the Morni Fort are present close to the hills as well. There is an adventure park nearby that provides activities options like rope climbing, commando nets, Burma bridge, rappelling, and rock-climbing. One can also find a treehouse with fountains and a cafeteria as well as several swings and rides for children. The park’s entry fee is INR 50 for adults and INR 30 for children under 10 years of age.
Narnaul Not very far from Haryana’s border with Rajasthan and about 130 km southwest of Gurgaon, the historic town of Narnaul claims to be one of the important seats of the Dwapar Yuga of the Mahabharata.
Claiming hybrid architectural influences of the Mughals, Rajputs, Persians and the British, Narnaul is famous for its many tombs and historical sites that date back to the Mughal and Rajput era, followed by the rule of Prince of Jaipur and Patiala. Also famous as Birbal’s birthplace, one of the Ministers or Navratnas in Akbar’s Court, Narnaul is also the birthplace of Sher Shah Suri, the Afghan king who shook the foundations of the Mughal dynasty. The famous Ayurvedic blend, Chyavanprasha was first made in Doshi, a sacred hill just 8 km away from this town. The Battle of Narnaul, also called Battle of Nasibpur was fought on 16 November 1857, between the British Raj and Indian natives during the First War of Indian Independence and was one of the most ferocious battles of the First War of Indian Independence.
The Nivajpur Fort, built by the Mughal Jagirdar or feudal lord Nivaj Ali at Nivajpur village 10 km from Narnaul, has 3 ft wide and 20 ft high stone walls. It had a system of wells, warehouses, stables and a 42 ft wide gateway, all of which now lie in ruins. Situated 8 km off Narnaul’s centre, Dhosi hill is famously known for being the origin of the famous Ayurvedic concoction, Chyavanprash made by Chavan Rishi. The Tripoli Gateway consists of three gateways, hence the name. The edifice was built using red and grey sandstone in the shape of an octagon in 1589 by Shah Quili Khan.
A temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, Modawala Mandir is located on the Narnaul-Rewari road. Built by Raja Naun Karan, a great devotee of the Goddess, the Chamunda Devi Mandir lies in the heart of the town. The temple was decaying and lost for several years during the Mughal rule but was rediscovered by the local people. Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, the Khalde Wale Hanumanji temple was built during the Mughal era in Raghunath Pura. Special pujas and aartis are organised here every Tuesday attracting devotees in large numbers.
Dedicated to the saint Hazarat Turkman, who lived in the area during the 12th century, the original tomb of Pir Turkman is covered by a large dome, giving it a mosque-like appearance. The British later built a verandah along the opening giving it a grand look. Situated close to the tomb of Pir Turkman is the tomb of Ibrahim Khan Sur. It was built by Sher Shah Suri in the memory of his grandfather, who was a ruler of Bengal. The tomb was designed and built by the Sher Shah’s architect, Sheikh Ahmad Niyazi, in the Pathan style. Situated close to Ibrahim Khan’s mausoleum, the Tomb of Shah Wilayat is more of a large complex in the Tughluq architectural style. Also called the Chatta Rai Bal Mukund Das, it was built by the Diwan of Narnaul during the reign of Shah Jahan. It is a five-storey building with several halls and pillars located within the building complex. Shah Quli Khan’s Tomb is the resting place of Shah Quli Khan, the governor of Narnaul. Built in the 16th century, it is one of the few examples of Mughal architecture in Narnaul. Shah Quli Khan was the Mughal governor of Narnaul during the reign of Akbar and the tomb was commissioned by him during his lifetime and remained part of his estate. The two-storeyed octagonal tomb is set on a raised platform with black and yellow marble, along with red sandstone. To the West lies a large gateway leading to the tomb, known as Tripolia Gate. The tomb of Shah Quli’s brother Islam Quli Khan is situated at a small distance from this tomb, to the northeast and is a brick building with little architectural significance.
Chor Gumbad built by the Afghan ruler Jamal Khan, is a large square-shaped structure, with each corner consisting of a minaret and signposts marking the beginning of Narnaul. The place later served as a hide-out for thieves, and hence the name.
Jal Mahal or the Water Palace is a late 16th-century palace, fortification, and artificial lake built by a Mughal governor of Narnaul and currently serves as a tourist attraction. Jal Mahal was built in 1591 by Shah Quli Khan, a member of the nobility of the Mughal empire and the governor of Narnaul. Khan began by creating a square artificial lake with an island in the centre that was intended to form a second Kausar or the Pond of Abundance in paradise for the palace’s occupants. He then ordered the construction of a fortified gateway on the northern edge of the lake, following which a causeway was built out into the centre of the reservoir, where a foundation was laid and a palace built. The palace was decorated in the style of other Mughal palaces and pavilions and the structure was adorned with art and carvings, including inscriptions that celebrated Khan’s famous victory over Hemu. Over the centuries, the palace’s pool gradually filled with earth which was cleared in the late 20th century and the lake restored.
The Nahar Wildlife Sanctuary spreads over an area of 522 acres and was an old pasture land of the Nawab of Dujana. Located about 60 km northeast of Narnaul, this small area is divided into three parts with the Kosli-Kanina road dividing the area of 424 acres into two parts of 331 acres and 93 acres. Another stretch of 98 acres lies to the north of this area which was managed as Reserve Forest before its declaration as Sanctuary in 1987. The Nahar Wildlife Sanctuary is among the last few surviving natural habitats for the Blackbuck in particular and other wildlife species in general. In 2012-13 a protection centre was constructed with an area of around 25 acres fenced.
Kurukshetra Also known as Dharmakshetra or the realm of duty and as the land of the Bhagavad Gita, Kurukshetra lies about 35 km north of Karnal. According to the Puranas, Kurukshetra is a region named after King Kuru, the ancestor of Kauravas and Pandavas in the Kuru kingdom, as depicted in the epic Mahabharata. The Kurukshetra War of the Mahabharata is believed to have taken place here. Thaneswar whose urban area is merged with Kurukshetra is a pilgrimage site with many locations attributed to the Mahabharata. It is where Lord Krishna is said to have recited the Bhagavad Gita to Arjuna.
In the Vedas, Kurukshetra is described not as a city but as a region where kshetra means a region in Sanskrit. The boundaries of Kurukshetra correspond roughly to the central and western parts of the state of Haryana and southern Punjab. According to the Vamana Purana, King Kuru chose the land at the banks of the Sarasvati River for embedding spirituality with eight virtues. Lord Vishnu was impressed with the acts of King Kuru and blessed him with two boons—first, that this land forever will be known as a Holy Land after his name as Kurukshetra or the land of Kuru and second that anyone dying on this land will go to heaven. The land of Kurukshetra was situated between two rivers—the Sarasvati and the Drishadvati.
Kurukshetra was conquered by the Mauryan empire in the late 4th century BC and subsequently became a centre of Buddhism and Hinduism. The history of Kurukshetra is little-known in between the collapse of the Mauryans and the rise of the Kushans who conquered the region. After the decline of Kushan power in the region, Kurukshetra became independent only to become conquered by the Gupta empire in the early 4th century. Under the Gupta rule, Kurukshetra experienced a cultural and religious revival and became a centre for Hinduism. After the fall of the Gupta, the Pushyabhuti dynasty ruled over Kurukshetra. Around the early 9th century, Kurukshetra lost its independence to Bengal. Mahmud of Ghazni sacked Kurukshetra in 1014 and Muslim raiders sacked it in 1034. Kurukshetra was incorporated into the Delhi Sultanate in 1206. Other than a short moment of independence from the result of a rebellion within the Sultanate in 1240, Kurukshetra was under the control of Delhi until 1388.
Kurukshetra became independent once again after the steep decline of the Delhi Sultanate and the raids of Tamerlane near the region. The Sayyid dynasty incorporated Kurukshetra into their territory through the city likely enjoyed some autonomy. Kurukshetra became part of the Mughal Empire after Babur quashed a local rebellion in 1526. Under Akbar, Kurukshetra once again became a spiritual centre not only for Hindus but also for Sikhs and Muslims. Between the late 17th and early 18th centuries, Kurukshetra was controlled by the forces of the Maratha Empire until the British took over Delhi in 1803. In 1805, the British took Kurukshetra after defeating the Maratha forces in the Second Anglo-Maratha War. Kurukshetra is an important Hindu pilgrimage destination, and several pilgrimage sites surround the city. A few kilometres from Kurukshetra is the village known as Amin, where there are remnants of a fort that is believed to be Arjun’s son, Abhimanyu’s fort.
Jyotisar is associated with the legend of Mahabharata and is where Lord Krishna recited the Bhagwad Geeta under a Banyan tree to the Pandava prince Arjun, to prepare him to fight the war against Bhishma and Karna. The tree at Jyotisar is believed to be the same tree under which Lord Krishna expounded the Bhagavad Gita.
Raja Harsh Ka Tila is an archaeologically important site where excavations have revealed an ancient settlement expanding about 1 sq km. Research has revealed that the settlements belong to over six cultural periods ranging from the 1st to the 19th centuries including the Gupta, the Kushana, the Vardhamana, the post-Gupta and the Mughal periods.
Raja Karna Ka Kila belongs to three cultural periods in the region ranging from the 4th century BC to the 3rd century AD. It was first surveyed and excavated in 1921 by the Archaeological Survey of India and artefacts recovered include terracotta seals, fabrics, terracotta beads, stamped pottery, bricks, clay artefacts & seals. One can also see the fortification of well preserved small houses.
Named after the wife of Rishi Jamadagni, Renuka, the Renuka Yaksha Tirth is the entry point to Kurukshetra and one of the four Yakshas present in the region. Located on the banks of the sacred river Saraswati, it is considered auspicious to take a dip in the river before beginning the journey into the region.
Brahma Sarovar, as its name suggests, is a water tank in Thanesar, considered sacred by Hindus and incredibly beautiful. Sunsets here with their reddish and golden reflection in the water is beautiful. A beautiful temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is situated inside the pond which can be reached via a concrete bridge. The tank sees a huge number of pilgrims during a solar eclipse and on the day of Somavati Amavasya or the sacred no-moon day that happens on a Monday as it is believed that a bath in the holy Sarovar frees one from all sins and the cycle of birth and death. The Sarovar is one of Asia’s largest man-made ponds and Hindu genealogy registers are kept here.
According to mythology, Brahma Sarovar is dedicated to Lord Brahma who created the universe after a huge yajna or ritual in Kurukshetra. In ancient times, the tank was known as Ramahard and Samanta Panchaka and was said to be associated with Parshurama who was an embodiment of Lord Vishnu. Due to its special association with the solar eclipse, the tank was also popularly known as the Kurukshetra tank. Yudhisthir, the eldest of the Pandavas, erected a tower in the middle of the Sarovar as a symbol of his victory in the battle of Mahabharatha. On the northern bank of the Sarovar lies the shrine of Lord Shiva which is said to have been installed by Lord Brahma himself. The festival of Gita Jayanti is the most famous occasion celebrated at the Brahma Sarovar which is held in November and December. Deep Daan in which lighted lamps are floated in the water and the aarti take place during the ceremony. It is believed by devotees that one circumambulation of the sacred tank is equal to visiting the Teertha lying within the holy circuit of Kurukshetra once. The week-long celebration of the birth of Bhagavad Geeta is celebrated with dramas, dance performances, social campaigns, exhibitions, sacred ceremonies and competitions.
Bhishma Kund is said to be where the patriarch Bhishma was laid on a bed of arrows made by Arjun for him to watch the battle. When he was thirsty and he requested water, Arjun shot an arrow in the ground letting out a water spring to quench Bhishma’s thirst. This water body is now known as the Bhishma Kund. Falgu Tirth is a religiously important pilgrimage centre, especially during Pitru Paksha, which is the period to pay respects to the ancestors.
Measuring up to 550 ft in width and 1500 ft in height, Sannihit Sarovar is believed to be the meeting point of seven tributaries of the Saraswati River and is the home of Lord Vishnu. It is believed that bathing here on the day of Amavasya or the day of an eclipse would be equal to performing the Aswamedha Yajna. The Sarovar also houses shrines of Dhruv Narayan, Sri Hanuman, Lord Vishnu, Dhruv Bhagat, Laxmi Narayan and Goddess Durga.
It is said that Lord Krishna and the Pandavas obtained the blessings of Lord Shiva at the Sthaneshwar Mahadev Temple before the epic battle of Kurukshetra in the Mahabharata. The tank in the premises of the temple is believed to possess healing properties and is also said to have healed Banasura’s leprosy. Archaeologists trace the architecture of the temple to Sthaneshwar, the ancient capital of Emperor Harshavardhana. One can see the roof of the temple shaped like an Indian gooseberry with lofty pinnacles. The temple houses an ancient statue of a Shiva linga believed to be the first idol of Shiva in the phallic form.
The Bhadrakali Temple is where Pandavas were believed to perform prayers and rituals before the final battle against the Kauravas. One of the Shakti Peeths, the shrine is home to Goddess Kali and her incarnations.
The Lakshmi Narayan temple is an 18th-century shrine dedicated to Lord Narayana and Goddess Lakshmi built during the Chola dynasty. It is believed that devotees wouldn’t have to go on the Char Dham or the four holy pilgrimage temples if they visit this temple and complete seven circumambulations around the shrine.
Sheikh Cheli Mausoleum or Sheikh Chilli’s Tomb was built in the memory of the Sufi master of Prince Dara Shikoh, Sufi Saint Sheikh Chehli. The attraction is a stunning illustration of Persian architecture with beautiful floral designs. The complex has Sheikh Chilli’s and his wife’s tombs, a mosque made of red sandstone, a madrasa, beautifully maintained lawns and an Archaeological Museum.
The Kalpana Chawla Memorial Planetarium was established in memory of Kalpana Chawla, the Indian-American astronaut and engineer who was the first woman of Indian origin to go to space and who was one of the seven crew members who died in the Space Shuttle Columbia disaster when the spacecraft disintegrated during its re-entry into the Earth’s atmosphere. The planetarium has interesting exhibits and short films about astronomy.
The Kurukshetra Panorama & Science Centre was established to explain the role of science in traditional religion. Interactive and functional exhibits of technology merging with the culture are displayed at the centre including the legendary battle of Kurukshetra in a life-like panorama. Here, one can get in-depth knowledge on the concepts of matter and their properties utilised in ancient India along with their scientific justifications.
Founded in 1987, the Krishna Museum houses various artefacts of Lord Krishna and Krishna’s incarnations from the 1st to the 11th centuries. The museum houses six galleries that showcase statues in the forms as described in the Bhagavata Purana and Mahabharata. The exhibits in the galleries consist of exquisite woodcarvings, wooden panels, bronze casting, ivory works, palm–leaf etchings, stone sculptures, archaeological artefacts and miniature paintings. There is also a tableau made from papier-mache and clay, based on the Bhagavata Gita and the Mahabharata.
Located in Kurukshetra University, the Dharohar Museum exhibits the rich historical, cultural, archaeological and architectural heritage of the state. It was established during the Golden Jubilee of the university and has over 23 galleries that display the rich heritage of the region through paintings, photographs, artefacts and manuscripts. The museum complex also has an open-air amphitheatre where folk performances are frequently organised. The Nishtha Fish Museum is a little fish museum where one can find several colourful aquatic species and is apt for children to explore over a day-long picnic along with other attractions nearby.
The OP Jindal Park & Musical Fountain is an expansive park covering about 14 acres of land with lush green lawns, fountains, a jogging park, a fully functioning children’s play area, a quiet meditation centre and a fragrant rose garden. Established in 1982, the Pipli Zoo houses various species of animals over 25 acres. The zoo also has a blackbuck breeding centre and is a local favourite picnic spot.
Bhor Saidan Crocodile Farm was established over an area surrounding a tank full of crocodiles. In the 1930s, the Mahants of the nearby Bhureeshwar Temple brought a few mugger crocodiles and released them in the pond next to the temple. In 1982, the farm was taken over by the Forest Department and the periphery was fenced. The department obtained four pairs of crocodiles from the Crocodile Bank in Madras to help balance the ecosystem. The centre captive breeds and conserves freshwater mugger crocodiles which are native to India.
Just 25 km west of Kurukshetra and 6 km from the Bhor Saidan Crocodile Farm lies the Chhilchhila Wildlife Sanctuary. Also known as the Seonthi Reserve Forest, the Chhilchhila Wildlife Sanctuary is located in a depression that has a small lake created by an embankment. The sanctuary, as a staging and wintering ground of avifauna, has recorded 57 species, including 33 winter migrants, 2 summer migrants and 22 resident species of both resident and migrant wetland birds which belong to 37 genera and 16 families including two species classified as near endangered. Chhilchhila Lake was notified as a Bird Sanctuary in 1986. A zone of 5 km surrounding the sanctuary has been declared an Eco-sensitive Zone to preserve its ecology and environment. According to local legend, the lake in the sanctuary is linked to the epic Mahabharata as it is believed that the Pandavas escaped to Haridwar through a tunnel under the lake.
About 35 km from the Chhilchhila Wildlife Sanctuary lies Saraswati Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as Seonsar Forest and is spread over an area of more than 110 sq km. The Saraswati Plantation was notified as the Saraswati Wildlife Sanctuary on 29 July 1988. It was reported in 2016 that the Mahant and members of a group of Nath yogis in the sanctuary found ancient rectangular bricks from a 15 feet deep structure after an old banyan tree was uprooted. According to experts, these bricks and structure appear to be older than 1500 years old as the square bricks are associated with the 1,500-year-old Gupta period, so between 320 to 550 AD and these bricks are likely to be even older from the Kushan period between 30 to 375 AD as the Sarasvati river used to flow here. There is also 40-year-old water well made of small lakhauri bricks associated with the Mughal empire.
Ambala Ambala which lies about 50 km north of Kurukshetra is located on the border with Punjab and in proximity to the state capital, Chandigarh. Because of the cantonment area, which has a large Indian Army and Indian Air Force presence, it is also known as a twin city. Ambala separates the Ganges river network from the Indus river network and is surrounded by two rivers, the Ghaggar and the Tangri, to the north and the south.
The town is said to derive its name from Amba Rajput who supposedly founded it during the 14th century. According to another version, it is named after the goddess Bhawani Amba whose temple still exists in the town. Indo-Parthian Kingdom coins as well as coins of Hunas, Mihirakula and Toramana were found in the area, which indicated that after the disintegration of the Mauryan empire, the area was taken over by Indo-Parthians and later was incorporated in the domain of the Hunas. In 1709, the Battle of Ambala was fought and the Sikhs captured Ambala from the Mughals.
The Ambala Army Cantonment was established in 1843 after the British were forced to leave its Karnal Cantonment following the malaria epidemic of 1841–42. The cantonment houses the 2 Corps, one of the three Strike Corps of the Indian Army. Ambala Air Force Base is one of the oldest and largest airbases inherited from the British by the IAF. Ambala was the front line airfield for many years and home to various aircraft that were inducted into the Indian Air Force. Ambala Cantonment is the location of the historic European Cemetery.
Rani Ka Talab is a 400-year-old scenic and historic pond in Ambala Cant and is manned by the army. It is surrounded by the Kailash Mandir and the Indra Park. The Raja Ka Talab was also constructed along with Rani Ka Talab but now Raja Ka Talab has been carved out into a modern park known as Patel Park which during British rule, was known as Company Bagh.
The Sisganj Gurudwara is also known as Baoli Sahib and was sanctified by Sri Guru Hargobind and Sri Guru Gobind Singh who spent seven months of his childhood over here. Located near Anandpur, the gurudwara has a large dome and is one of the most significant gurudwara of Haryana. It is also known as the Badshahi Bagh of Haryana and it is believed that this gurudwara disciplines the Sikh followers from wrongdoings per the sermons of Guru Granth Sahib, the holy book of Sikhs. Guru Gobind Singh held a congregation here and now that place houses the Guru’s bed, weapons and utensils used in the langar. Gurudwara Shri Laknour Sahib is situated in Lakhnour village. Shri Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib Ji’s wife and Shri Guru Gobind Singh Ji’s Mother Mata Gujri was born here after which her parents shifted to Kartarpur Sahib, where she married Shri Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib Ji. On their way to Punjab, Mata and Guru Ji stayed at this gurudwara for 6 months and today, three beds, of which 2 beds and pawas, 2 prant’s and many more of the Guru’s weapons are still preserved here.
The Chintamani Sri Parshavnath Jain Mandir is one of the finest temples of Ambala founded by the Shri Vijay Inder Jain charitable trust about 150 years back. It is believed to house idols that are over 2,500 years old and excavated at Pinjore. The shrine consists of four idols of Jain deities with the statue of Chandra Prabhu the biggest sculpture in the temple.
The 2500-year-old Hanuman Mandir has beautiful artwork, artistic engravings and sculptures which is in tandem with the Mughal School of painting. Located on the old Grand Trunk Road, it is flocked by pilgrims and devotees, especially on Tuesdays and Saturdays and on the occasion of Hanuman Jayanti which takes place in April. The temple is also known as Shree Panchmukhi Hanuman Mandir.
The Ambika Mata Temple is not only the oldest shrine in the town, but is also from where Ambala got its name. Dedicated to Goddess Amba, Ambika and Ambalika, this ancient Hindu shrine is thousands of years old. One of the attractions of the temple is paintings on the upper walls and ceilings, which have faded over the years.
The Holy Redeemer Church was built under by the British when troops of the East India Company were posted from Karnal to Ambala. The church was rebuilt in 1905 after it collapsed and consists of an altar of the old church and huge towers, sturdy pillars and an elevated Gothic roof. Today, the old residence of the priest is used as a dispensary and reading room.
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Kalesar National Park and the adjacent Kalesar Wildlife Sanctuary are protected areas that lie about 100 km east of Ambala. Both are also contiguous to the Simbalbara National Park in Himachal Pradesh and the Rajaji National Park in Uttrakhand. Kalesar National Park is spread across 53 sq km and was notified on 8 December 2003 while the 53 sq km Kalesar Wildlife Sanctuary was notified on 13 December 1996. The park is named after the Kalesar Mahadev temple located in this national park. Kalesar is a popular destination for leopards, panthers, elephants, red jungle fowl and bird-watching and is covered primarily with sal with a smattering of Semul, Amaltas and Bahera trees as well.
The ancient Kalesar Mahadev temple takes its name from the corrupted form of Kaleshwar, a moniker of the Hindu deity Lord Shiva. It is located near NH 907 on the east side and just 400 meters north of the Kalesar Dak rest house and 8.5 km north of the Hathni Kund Barrage. There is also another later era Shiva temple north of the Kalesar Mahadev temple.
The Colonial Dak Bungalow is excellent for bird watchers and wildlife enthusiasts and is a 100-year-old colonial dak bungalow. The forest rest house is at a picturesque point and commands a sweeping view of the Yamuna river. Surrounded by multi-layered gardens, with high-ceiling rooms, exquisite parquet flooring and teak panelling along the walls, the bungalow has fireplaces with mantelpieces and antique furniture that completes the period setting.
Wildlife jeep safaris are available on 3 tracks and the park is closed between July to September. During the remaining months visiting hours are between 6 to 10 am and between 4 to 7 pm during summers, and between 7 to 11 am and 3:30 to 6 pm during winters.
Memories and Such 
