Travel Bucket List: India – Assam Part 2

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Kokrajhar
About 226 km west of Guwahati is the town of Kokrajhar, our next destination. Located on the north bank of the Brahmaputra, with the Gourang river flowing through it, the district shares a border with the Kingdom of Bhutan. Abode of the elusive Golden Langurs, the Chakrashila Wildlife Park is located here. The area is rich in natural beauty and sits at the foot of the lower Himalayas and the region is dotted with lush green forests. Kokrajhar is also the headquarters of the Bodoland Autonomous Council. Although the residents mainly speak Bodo now, early settlers were the Mon-Khmer speakers who were later pushed over by the Tibeto-Burman speakers that migrated from Tibet and China. The settlement of the Bodo people started with the earliest ruler of Assam, Kalika Purana, who belonged to the Bodo tribe. According to experts, the last rulers of the Naraka dynasty that ruled Assam fought for the Kauravas in the Mahabharat and were slain by mighty Krishna himself.

The three major tourist attractions here are the Chakrashila Wildlife Sanctuary, the Hanuman Temple and the Kali Temple. The Chakrashila Wildlife Sanctuary covers about 46 sq km and is popular for its exotic Golden Langur, making it the second protected habitat of the Golden Langur in India. Home to leopards, leopard cats, rhesus macaques, porcupines, Asiatic jackals; the sanctuary is also the abode of 250 endangered bird species including the night heron, the open billed stork, the lesser whistling teal and the hornbill. The sanctuary also has 23 different species of amphibians, over 40 species of butterflies and 60 types of insects. The lakes of Dheer and Deeplai which lie adjacent to each other adds to the beauty of the sanctuary. The sanctuary has provisions for trekking. Open all year, it is better to avoid the sanctuary in the monsoon season because the region is prone to heavy rainfall. The ancient Hanuman Temple is very popular while the Brahma Mandir which is dedicated to Lord Brahma said to be the creator of the universe is open daily between 5 am to 8 pm. The Daimalu Park and the Thandwai Brahma Memorial Park are ideal for relaxing while the Mahamaya Dham of Parbatjhora is a site of religious importance visited by devotees. The marvellous architecture of Mahamaya Snanghat Mandir is sui-generis. The lofty Maa Kali statue of Pachis Haat Kali Mandir catches the attention of the passers-by.

Bongaigaon
Our next destination is Bongaigaon which lies about 43 km east of Kokrajhar and 184 km west of Guwahati. The industrial and commercial hub of West Assam, Bongaigaon was the last capital of the Kamatapur Kingdom and home to many historical monuments of Assamese culture.

The Bagheswari Temple is one of the oldest temples in Assam and is dedicated to Goddess Parvati. It is among the oldest of the 52 Shakti Peethas or shrines devoted to Shaktism and the temple is so named due to the nearby Bagheswari Hill where tigers or bagh would be found in large numbers. Devotees flock to the temple in large numbers during the festival of Durga Pujo, specifically at the time of Durga Mahaashtami when buffalos are sacrificed. Legend has it that when Goddess Parvati was scattered across the earth by Lord Vishnu, a part of her Trishul or trident was found where the shrine within the temple lies, constructed by King Abhayapuri. The Lalmati – Duramari Ganesh Temple lies on Khagrapar Hill and is an ancient temple with stone carvings in the temple suggesting that the temple could belong to a period between the 8th and 10th centuries. Believed to be destroyed by an earthquake, the temple exists in a ruined state today. The Rock Cut Caves are evidence of the far-reaching rock-cut architectural movement during the Salasthamba period. These five caves at Jogighopa, at the bank of the Brahmaputra river, are some of the best-known examples of rock-cut structures in the state and are now preserved by the Archaeological Survey of India. The Bagheswari Hill is the highest point in Bongaigaon which houses a shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. This hill overlooks the Bagheswari Temple, lending its name to it. From the top of the hill, one can enjoy panoramic views of the city.

Known locally as Tamranga Bil or Tamranga Beel, the Tamranga Lake is one-half of the largest freshwater lakes in Assam. Located at around a half-hour drive from Bongaigaon, the lake is flanked by hills on one side and paddy fields and rubber plantations on the other and serves as a great picnic sport during the winter season. Tourists or non-locals who visit can pay local fishermen or boatmen a small fee to enjoy a leisurely boat ride on the lake. The Birjhora Tea Estate is one of the biggest tea gardens and is beautiful because of how it slopes towards Birjhora Hill. Situated on the banks of River Brahmaputra, Jogighopa and Pancharatna are two famous historic sites with Pancharatna lying on the southern side while Jogighopa lies on the northern side of the banks of the river. Both places have several cubicles cut down from rocks. These small rooms are considered to belonging to the medieval period and used by monks to meditate. There are various ancient temples and monuments made of huge rocks. The Narnarayan Setu is a double-deck bridge with a railway track on the lower deck and a road on the upper deck that connects Jogighopa with Pancharatna.

The Koya-Kujia Bill is an ecological park, famous as a picnic spot. A project undertaken by the Assam Tourism Development Corporation, Koya-Kujia Bill aims to keep safe the number of birds that fly here every winter and to keep intact its natural vegetation. It is a natural water body that is surrounded by well-manicured gardens laden with the rich vegetation of different species of plants, shrubs, and herbs. The park also has recreational activities including swings and slides and boating in the waters of the Koya Kujia Lake. Each year, numerous birds arrive at the park in January and December. Located in the small town of Abhayapuri, about 22 km south of Bongaigaon, one will need to hire a private vehicle to reach the park. The Kachugaon Game Reserve, located in Kachugaon is a protected area under the Assam Forest Department which has many rare and endangered species such as the gaur, the golden langur, the spotted deer and the elephant.

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Located on the banks of the river Aie, about 15 km from Bongaigaon, the Kakaijana Wildlife Sanctuary or the Kakoijana Reserved Forest’s famous inhabitants are the golden langurs which are native to western Assam and along the Indo-Bhutan border region. Golden langurs are listed in the category of rare species in the Red Data Book of the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Set in an area of 17.24 sq km, the sanctuary was initially, a reserved forest, it later got promoted to the status of a sanctuary. Apart from the golden langur, several species like stork, python, leopard, hornbill, porcupine and much more are found here.

This sanctuary houses various species of animals like hornbill, leopard, python, stork, golden langur, monitor lizards and pangolin. In addition to these, jungle fowl, barking deer, porcupine, mongoose and binturong can also be spotted at this sanctuary. Apart from the animals, tourists can also find various kinds of bird species like red vented bulbul, pied harrier, jungle leubbler and many others. Kalikapat, a spring on the hill, which flows from the dense forests and reaches paddy fields is yet another leading attraction.

Goalpura
Located about 57 km south of Bongaigaon and roughly 150 km east of Guwahati, on the south bank of the Brahmaputra, Goalpura was a princely state ruled by the Koch kings and came under British colonial rule in 1765. In 1826 the British accessed Assam and Goalpara was annexed to the North-East Frontier in 1874. The name Goalpara is said to have originally derived from Gwaltippika meaning Guwali Village or the village of the milkmen. Goalpara is known for its rich wildlife and dense forests. It is home to numerous rare and endemic plant and animal species. But lately, due to tremendous tourism pressure and human traffic, there has been a considerable loss of biodiversity and disbalance in the ecosystem. The forests were originally covered with Sal or Shorea Robusta trees, however, there has been a large-scale decline in the vegetation due to exploitation and encroachment. The rapid depletion of the forest cover has not only brought about environmental changes but has also led to the extinction of various floral and faunal species.

Surya Pahar is a relatively unknown site 12 km southeast of Goalpara with high archaeological value. Translating to the Hill of the Sun, Surya Pahar’s name implies that the site was associated with the cult of sun worship. The archaeological findings discovered from the area are kept in the local museum. Dotted with shivlingas, Suraya Pahar holds the unique distinction of being marked and holding major significance in the history of 3 major religions which is proven by the presence of an amalgam of Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism relics, archaeological and religious articles. It is believed that the great sage Vyasa laid the foundations for Surya Prahar modelling it on Kashi with 99,999 Shiv Lingams dotted across the mountain face and it was a thriving civilization and a major trading city long ago with maritime trade routes through the mighty Brahmaputra. Being an amalgamation of Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism, it enjoyed great status. Some historians even believe that Sri Suraya Pahar was the ancient seat of the Pragjyotish Kingdom and not Guwahati. Many Hindu rock carvings have been discovered in this place along with some rock-cut antiques, 25 stupas and the deities belonging to Hinduism, Buddhism, and Jainism. These are kept at a museum in Surya Prahar. Jainism which didn’t have a strong foothold anywhere in the Northeast except for its presence in Suraya Pahar, hence, is of great significance. 25 stupas in the eastern periphery are proof of the presence of Buddhism.

Around 15 km from Goalpara lies Tukeswari. According to legends, a portion of Goddess Sati fell at this site and the Tukeswari temple which is located atop the Tukeswari Hill also has a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. An ancient shrine, the Nandeswar Devalaya stands atop the Nandeswar hill alongside the river Dudhnoi. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the temple comes to life during the festivals of Shivratri, Dol Jatra and Durga Pooja. One of the 51 Shakti Sthals, the Sri Joybhum Kamakhya Temple is a major temple nestled on the banks of River Brahmaputra, about 50 km from Goalpara. There is also a temple of Lord Shiva built near the Joybhum Kamakhya Temple and thousands of devotees come to the temple during the celebration of the annual festival in October. A hub of Vaishnavite culture and religion, the Shyamrai Satra was established in Goalpara with the ashes of Sri Manta Sankardeva preserved by the Satra authority and which is displayed during the celebration of Sankar Jayanti which takes place in April/May. An important religious site on the banks of Brahmaputra, Buraburi Than showcases secularism with people from different religions taking part in the various religious functions. At Dadan Hills, there is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva which was built by Dadan, a general of King Bana of Sonitpur. One of the many legends that surround this temple suggest that a wild elephant was killed by the general at the foothill of the hill, who can be seen in the form of a stone sculpture on the banks of the river Dariduri.

Barpeta
70 km northeast of Goalpura and 95 km northwest of Guwahati lies the town of Barpeta, the next town we will be exploring. Known as the Land of Satras, the town is referred to in the local language as Satra Nagari or the town of temples due to it being home to many Vaishnavite Satras. The name Barpeta is derived from Bar meaning big and Peta meaning pond. Hence, the name Barpeta translates to a land of big ponds. Barpeta was earlier known as Tatikuchi, where Tati stands for weaver and Kuchi means a cluster of villages in the native Barpetia dialect, the land of weavers. In ancient times, it was a central part of erstwhile ancient Kamrup, included in Kamapitha of Kamarupa Pithas, the ancient divisions of the old Kamrup region. Before urbanisation, the town had many ponds. Barpeta is also the gateway to the rich natural reserve of Manas National Park.

One of the most popular Satras in Assam, the Barpeta Satra was originally known as Barpeta Than. It was established by Sri Madhabdeva around 500 years back around 1583. Sri Mathura Das Burha Ata, a disciple of Sri Madhabdeva, became the first Satria of the Barpeta Satra and today, the Barpeta Satra functions as a Kirtanghar and stands as an important site for Vaishnavite devotees An important festival celebrated here is Holi, where devotees flock from across the state to observe Doul Mahotsav. The Sundariya Satra was constructed by Shri Madhavdeva after he left the Ganakkuchi Satra. Apart from serving as an abode to Shri Madhavdeva, the premises of the shrine played a vital role in spreading Vaishnavism and reformation. The Dargah of Syed Shahnur Dewan is located at Bhella, nearly 8 km away from Barpeta. An important shrine for those following the Islamic faith, it is said that during the medieval period, Syed Shahnur Dewan, a disciple of the Muslim Sufi saint Ajan Fakir, arrived here to spread the religion of Islam and Sufi philosophies. The Beki river which originates in Bhutan is one of the right bank tributaries of the river Brahmaputra and a significant portion of this river flows through Assam. A great view over the river can be had from the bridge along NH-31 which runs across the river.

Nalbari
Located at the base of the eastern Himalayas, about 52 km east of Barpeta and 72 km north of Guwahati, Nalbari’s history dates back many centuries. The Suvarnakundya village close to Nalbari produced the finest silk of Kautilya’s time. The area also produced a special perfume with the Chandan and Aguru products highly sought and exported far and wide, including north India. Western Assam was known as Kamarupa from the ancient to the pre-modern period and existed in harmony with the Davaka region of central Assam. Kamarupa was divided into Kamarupa Pithas or geographical divisions and the Nalbari district was carved out in 1985. Bhutan shares an international border with the district with the Bramhaputra river lies to the south. The word Nalbari is derived from Nal and Bari with Nal a variety of reed while Bari is enclosed ground with plantation.

Hari Mandir, located in the heart of the town is a major attraction. Established in 1965, the temple is built on the land donated by Rambahadur Pratap Narayan Choudhury and witnesses a huge crowd of pilgrims during a celebration of the festival of Raas Mahotsav. The festival is held annually during November and goes up to 15 days drawing pilgrims from all over the country.

The annual Raas Music Festival is a significant cultural and spiritual festival is celebrated at the end of the year, generally in November and go on for 11 days in the premises of the Hari Mandir. Raas essentially translates to dancing in delight and is often associated with Lord Krishna. The festival transforms the town of Nalbari into a festive extravaganza attracting thousands of visitors every year. The festival was first believed to have been celebrated in 1933 in the Nalbari Purana Natkhola, but the venue was later shifted to the present Hari Mandir to accommodate the growing number of visitors. The main puja mandap or hall at Hari Mandir has a beautiful idol of Radha-Krishna where the main Raas pooja takes place. In addition, there are several other temporary stalls with idols depicting a varied range of events, from events in the life of Lord Krishna to mechanised versions of current events.

The Billeshwar Temple is an ancient temple over 500 years old with an interesting past. Located at Belsor village near Nalbari, the temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna, although it is believed that a Shiva Linga was found on the same spot. As per the legend, once a cow owned by the priest refused to be milked. The following day, the priest found out that the cow gave her milk to a bush of Virina. When the case came to the notice of the king, he dug up the place and found a Shiva Linga. The Birreswar was soon established which later came to be known as the Billeswar Temple and today is known as the Belsor Temple. An ancient temple dedicated to Goddess Parvati, the Shripur Dewalay Mandir is said to have been created by an Ahom king, Sib Singha. As per the legend, the part of the body of Goddess Parvati or Sati fell here. Every year, the festivals of Durga Puja and Kali Puja are celebrated here. Located in Daulashal, the Daulashal Temple is dedicated to Lord Krishna and his brother Lord Balram. Once known as Daulakhal owing to the presence of a great temple or doul and a canal or khal, today it is a centre of religious significance. According to legend, the Jaypal Than Temple was revealed to the Ahom king Sib Singh by a cow named Kapali. Today, only some parts of the temple are visible, the larger part being buried underground due to an earthquake. The Basudeb Devalay was built between 1718 and 1744 under the rule of Ahom King Sib Singha. As per legend, once the fishing net of some fisherman fishing in the pond got stuck for seven days. On the seventh day, a local had dreamed of Lord Basudeb wishing to be relieved from the fishing net. When the news of the dream reached King Sib Singha, he immediately tried to remove the two stones on the spot. However, when he failed, the king decided to build a temple there. The Bagheshwari Dewbahar Guri Dewalay is an ancient temple situated near Nalbari and was patronised by Kamleswar Singha, the Ahom king. Thetha Gohain was established by the end of the 19th century on a piece of land donated by Janmi Majumdar, who lived in Kamarkuchi. Also known as Sangdo Palgi Gumba, the Buddhist Temple is located in Bangnabari village, about 30 km from Nalbari and was built 60 years ago by Nepalese immigrants and is one of the biggest Gumbas in the district.

Built by King Fenugwa in the 14th century, the Fenguwa Fort is massive at 3.2 km in length and was built to safeguard the kingdom. Located about 7 km south of Nalbari, the Ganga Pukhari is a pond that was created by a Brahmin named Gangadhar and is renowned for a fair that is organised annually on the occasion of Ashok Ashtami. Another lake, Mahmara Pukhari was dug up under the rule of the Ahom kings and it is believed that a buffalo was sacrificed during the excavation to get rid of water scarcity. The Angradhowa Pukhari was constructed by King Fenguwa and according to legend, was used to wash the queen’s jewellery with charcoal and thus got its name. Sonkuhira is a local favourite picnic spot and is home to many migratory birds and thus serves as a paradise for bird watchers.

Hajo
25 km south of Nalbari and about 24 km northwest of Guwahati lies Hajo, a multi-faith pilgrimage centre. Hajo is an ancient pilgrimage centre for Hinduism, Buddhism, and Islam and lies on the northern bank of the Brahmaputra River. The area is dotted with several ancient temples and other sacred artefacts. The word Hajo is derived from the Boro word Hajw which means Hill.

The Hayagriva Madhava Temple has an idol of Lord Vishnu that is similar to the idol of Lord Jagannath in Puri. It is also believed that Lord Buddha is to have attained Nirvana here and hence is visited by Buddhists, Bhutiyas and Hindus. Visitors will have to climb a fleet of stairs to reach the temple and the festival of Holi in March is celebrated with grandeur. The Kedareswar Temple, located atop Madanachala Hill is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and is regarded as one of the oldest temples in the Indian subcontinent. This temple enshrines a huge Shivalinga, made of stone, which is popularly known as the Svayambhu Linga. It is also referred to as the Ardhanariswara form of Lord Shiva and the Shivalinga is always covered by a huge metal bowl. The Kamesware Temple is an ancient temple, built in the 18th century by the Ahom king Pramatta Singha. Much later, it was turned into a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva with the shiv linga here resembling that in Kedarnath. One of the popular temples, the Deva Bhavana was, according to a legend, the meeting point of deities. The Hajo Powa Mecca is located near the Madhava temple and was constructed by Mir Lutufullah-i-Shiraji in 1657, during the rule of the Mughal Emperor Shahjahan. The word Powa means ¼ and, Powa Mecca figuratively refers to having a quarter of the sanctity of Mecca. It is also believed that the foundation of the mosque was laid with the soil that was brought from Mecca. The tomb of Pir Giasuddin Auliya, a pioneer of Islam is located here.

Sualkuchi
Sualkuchi is a small sleepy village about 11 km south of Hajo and just on the other bank of the Brahmaputra and across the river from Guwahati is best known for its skill and craftsmanship for producing one of the best kinds of silk in the state. It has a large number of cottage industries engaged in handloom and is the textile centre of Assam. Muga silk and Pat silk along with Eri silk and Endi cloth from this region is famous for their quality. Mekhela chadors and Gamosas made from these indigenous materials are in demand throughout Assam as well as other parts of India. Also rich in flora and fauna, Sualkuchi is an ecologically diverse area inhabiting not only the local exotic animals and birds but also varied species of migratory birds. The Hatisatra Monastry is not only beautiful but one of the biggest monasteries dedicated to Lord Krishna. Established by Kanu Bura Thakur, a saint from Nalanga, the monastery attracts pilgrims in large numbers. The Sidheswar Devalaya is one of the major temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and was renovated by the Ahom King Shiba Singha. Situated in the southwest part of the town, on the Sidheswari Hill, long queues can be seen in this ancient temple, especially during the month of Bhole Bom. The Ganesh Bigrah Temple is an ancient temple believed to be established in the 11th century by King Ratnapal. Situated near Ghatia Hills, this temple houses a very majestic stone sculptured idol of Lord Ganesha along with the stone idol of Har-Gouri and a Shivalinga. One can also witness a copper idol of Lord Krishna of a height of about 10 inches.

Travel Bucket List: India – Assam Part 1

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My post on northeast India written more than two years back was the genesis for this series and so lately I have been thinking that I have been unfair about lumping all the eight states as one being, especially when I have researched in detail the other states. So, to overcome this, I will be doing each state in detail and will be starting with the state of Assam, one of the larger states.

Located south of the eastern Himalayas along the Brahmaputra and Barak River valleys in north-eastern India, Assam is bordered by Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh to the north; Nagaland and Manipur to the east; Meghalaya, Tripura, Mizoram and Bangladesh to the south; and West Bengal to the west via the Siliguri Corridor, a 22 km wide strip of land that connects the state to the rest of India. The state language is Assamese, followed by Bengali, which is official in the Barak Valley and Bodo which is official in Bodoland Territorial Region.

Known for its tea and silk, the state was the first site for oil drilling in Asia. Assam is home to the one-horned Indian rhinoceros, along with the wild water buffalo, pygmy hog, tiger and various species of Asiatic birds, and provides one of the last wild habitats for the Asian elephant. The Assamese economy is aided by wildlife tourism to the Kaziranga National Park and the Manas National Park, which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Assam receives more rainfall than most parts of India; this rain feeds the Brahmaputra River, whose tributaries and oxbow lakes provide the region with a hydro-geomorphic environment.

Assam and adjoining regions have evidence of human settlement from the beginning of the Stone Age. The first dated mention of the region comes from Periplus of the Erythraean Sea in the 1st century and Ptolemy’s Geographia in the 2nd century which calls the region Kirrhadia after the Kirata population. In the classical period and up to the 12th century the region east of the Karatoya river, largely congruent to present-day Assam, was called Kamarupa, and alternatively, Pragjyotisha. Though a western portion of Assam as a region continued to be called Kamrup, the Ahom kingdom that emerged in the east, and which came to dominate the entire Brahmaputra valley, was called Assam; and the British province too was called Assam. Though the precise etymology of Assam is not clear, the name Assam is associated with the Ahom people, originally called Shyam or Shan.

According to a late text, the Kalika Purana from around the 9th to the 10th century, the earliest ruler of Assam was Mahiranga Danav of the Danava dynasty, who was removed by Naraka of Mithila and established the Bhauma dynasty. The last of these rulers, also Naraka, was slain by Lord Krishna. Naraka’s son Bhagadatta became the king, who, it is mentioned in the Mahabharata fought for the Kauravas in the battle of Kurukshetra with an army of kiratas, chinas and dwellers of the eastern coast. At the same time towards the east in central Assam, the Asura Kingdom was ruled by another line of kings. Evidence indicates the presence of civilization in Assam around the 2nd century with a rock-cut stupa at Sri Surya Pahar that has been dated to 200 BC contemporary with the rock-cut Karle and Bhaja caves of Maharashtra. Samudragupta’s 4th century Allahabad pillar inscription mentions Kamarupa and Davaka in central Assam as frontier kingdoms of the Gupta Empire. Davaka was later absorbed by Kamarupa, which grew into a large kingdom that spanned from Karatoya river to near present Sadiya and covered the entire Brahmaputra valley, North Bengal, parts of Bangladesh and, at times Purnea and parts of West Bengal. The kingdom was ruled by three dynasties who traced their lineage from a mleccha or Kirata Naraka; the Varmanas, the Mlechchha dynasty and the Kamarupa-Palas, from their capitals in present-day Guwahati or Pragjyotishpura, Tezpur or Haruppeswara and North Gauhati or Durjaya respectively. All three dynasties claimed descent from Narakasura.

The Ahoms, a Tai group, ruled Upper Assam. The Shans built their kingdom and consolidated their power in Eastern Assam with the modern town of Sibsagar as their capital. Until the early 1500s, the Ahoms ruled a small kingdom in Sibsagar district and suddenly expanded during King Suhungmung’s rule taking advantage of the weakening rule of Chutia and Dimasa kingdoms. By 1681, the whole track down to the border of the modern district of Goalpara came permanently under their sway. Ahoms ruled for nearly 600 years between 1228 and 1826 with major expansions in the early 16th century. The Koch, another Bodo-Kachari dynasty, established sovereignty in 1510. The Koch kingdom in Western Assam and present-day North Bengal was at its zenith in the early reign of Nara Narayan between 1540 and 1587 and later split into two, the western part as a Mughal vassal and the eastern as an Ahom satellite state and later in 1682, Koch Hajo was entirely annexed by the Ahoms.

Despite numerous invasions, mostly by the Muslim rulers, no western power ruled Assam until the arrival of the British with the Mughals making seventeen unsuccessful attempts to invade. The discovery of Camellia sinensis in 1834 in Assam was followed by testing in 1836–37 in London. The British allowed companies to rent land from 1839 onwards and then tea plantations proliferated in Eastern Assam, where the soil and the climate were most suitable. Problems with the imported Han Chinese labourers from China and hostility from native Assamese resulted in the migration of forced labourers from central and eastern parts of India. After initial trial and error with planting the Chinese and the Assamese-Chinese hybrid varieties, the planters later accepted the local Camellia assamica as the most suitable variety for Assam. By the 1850s, the industry started seeing some profits. The industry saw initial growth when in 1861, investors were allowed to own land in Assam and it saw substantial progress with the invention of new technologies and machinery for preparing processed tea during the 1870s. In the later part of the 18th century, Ahom occupied Assam was captured by the Burmese who then leashed a reign of terror on the Assamese people who fled to neighbouring kingdoms and British-ruled Bengal after which the First Anglo-Burmese War took place in 1824 and ended under the Treaty of Yandabo in 1826, with the Company taking control of Western Assam and installing Purandar Singha as king of Upper Assam in 1833 under an arrangement that lasted till 1838 after which the British gradually annexed the entire region.

Initially, Assam was made a part of the Bengal Presidency, then in 1906 it was made a part of Eastern Bengal and Assam province, and in 1912 it was reconstituted into a chief commissioners’ province. The Assam territory was first separated from Bengal in 1874 as the North-East Frontier non-regulation province, also known as the Assam Chief-Commissionership. It was incorporated into the new province of Eastern Bengal and Assam in 1905 after the partition of Bengal between 1905 and 1911 and re-established in 1912 as Assam Province. After India’s independence, the Indian government divided Assam into several states beginning in 1970 within the borders of what was then Assam. In 1963, the Naga Hills district became the 16th state of India under the name of Nagaland and a part of Tuensang was added to the new state. In 1970, the districts containing the Khasi Hills, Jaintia Hills, and Garo Hills were formed into an autonomous state within Assam which then became the state of Meghalaya in 1972 and the same year, Arunachal Pradesh or the North-East Frontier Agency and Mizoram, from the Mizo Hills in the south were separated from Assam as union territories, with both becoming full states in 1986.

A significant geographical aspect of Assam is that it contains three of six physiographic divisions of India: the Northern Himalayas or the Eastern Hills, The Northern Plains or the Brahmaputra plains and Deccan Plateau or the Karbi Anglong. The climate is cold and there is rainfall most of the year. Geomorphic studies conclude that the Brahmaputra, the lifeline of Assam, is an antecedent river older than the Himalayas. Assam is one of the richest biodiversity zones in the world and consists of tropical rainforests, deciduous forests, riverine grasslands, bamboo orchards and numerous wetland ecosystems with many now protected as national parks and reserved forests. Assam has conserved the one-horned Indian rhinoceros from near extinction, along with the pygmy hog, tiger and numerous species of birds, and it provides one of the last wild habitats for the Asian elephant. The state has the largest population of wild water buffalo in the world as well as the highest diversity of birds in India with around 820 species which go up to 946 when subspecies are included.

Assam’s economy is based on agriculture and oil with Assam producing more than half of India’s tea. The Assam-Arakan basin holds about a quarter of the country’s oil reserves and produces about 12% of its total petroleum. The Assamese culture is traditionally a hybrid one developed due to assimilation of ethnocultural groups of Austric, Dravidian, Tibeto-Burman and Tai origin in the past. Therefore, both local elements or the local elements in Sanskritised forms are distinctly found.

We shall start our exploration of the state with its largest city Guwahati as well as its capital Dispur, which is a circuit city region located within Guwahati.

Guwahati

The largest city in Assam and also the largest metropolis in northeastern India, Guwahati is a major riverine port city along with hills and is called the Gateway to Northeast India. Dispur, the capital of Assam, is in the circuit city region located within Guwahati and is the seat of the Assam government. The city is also called the City of Temples because of the many ancient Hindu temples in the city. The city of Guwahati lies between the banks of the Brahmaputra River and the foothills of the Shillong plateau with the northern bank of the Brahmaputra, being gradually incorporated into the city limits. Guwahati is the largest city in Northeast India and the region hosts diverse wildlife including rare animals, primate species and endangered birds.

Once known as Pragjyotishpura or the light of the east, Guwahati was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Kamarupa and derives its name from the Assamese word Guva which is derived from the Sanskrit word Guvaka, meaning areca nut and its plant and Hati meaning rows with the city’s name translating to the rows of the areca nut tree. Guwahati’s myths and history go back several thousands of years, though the exact date of the city’s beginning is unknown, references in the epics, Puranas, and other traditional histories of India, lead many to assume that it is one of the ancient cities of Asia with the Kalika Purana mentioning that Kamarupa was inhabited by Kiratas. The city was the seat of the Borphukan, the civil-military authority of the Lower Assam region appointed by the Ahom kings. The Mughals invaded Assam seventeen times but were defeated by the Ahoms in the Battle of Itakhuli and the Battle of Saraighat on the outskirts of Guwahati. In 1972, the capital of Assam was moved to Dispur, a neighbourhood in Guwahati.

The Brahmaputra river flows to the north of the city which is bordered on the south by the foothills of the Shillong plateau and to the east by the Amchang Wildlife Sanctuary. The Bharalu River, a tributary of the Brahmaputra, flows right through the heart of the city and to the south-west of the city lies Dipor Bil, a permanent freshwater lake with no prominent inflows apart from monsoon run-off from the hills that lie to the south of the lake and drains into the Brahmaputra, acting as a natural stormwater reservoir for the city. There are also multiple hills within the city limits.

The Umananda Temple is located on Peacock Island that lies on the Brahmaputra River and is named after and dedicated to Lord Shiva. The name Umananda comes from the words, Uma, another name for Goddess Parvati and Ananda meaning happiness. Peacock Island is one of the smallest inhabited islands with the temple and its surroundings a haven for nature lovers. . The Island is home to a very rare and endangered species called the Golden Langur who are considered highly sacred. The temple is situated on top of a hill called Bhasmakala or Bhasmakuta. The island was originally built in 1694 by King Gadadhar Singha but was destroyed by an earthquake in 1897 and later rebuilt by a wealthy local merchant. The Umananda temple was crafted beautifully by the skilled Assamese workmen and aside from Lord Shiva, there are 10 other Hindu Gods whose idols reside in the shrines. The sanctum sanctorum encloses the rock on which Lord Shiva is said to have sat to meditate. According to a legend, Lord Shiva resided on this island as Bhayananda and it is said that at the beginning of creation, Lord Shiva sprinkled ashes here and imparted the supreme knowledge to his wife, Goddess Parvati. It is said that the Goddess Urvasi resides on this island and brings Amrit or nectar to Goddess Kamakhya which is why the island is also called Urvasi island. Even the Bhasmakuta hill on which the temple is located has a story. Legend says that when Kamadeva disturbed Lord Shiva during his meditation, he turned him into ash on this hillock, hence earning it the name of Bhasmakuta. The temple can be reached by a winding flight of stairs and is an ode to the mastery of the Assamese craftsmen and architects. Avoid visiting the island during monsoons as access to the island can be denied due to the rising water levels of the River Brahmaputra as well as due to flash floods. The temple is open from 5:30 am to 6 pm every day.

Located on the Nilanchal Hill in the western part of Guwahati,  the Kamakhya Temple is one of the most revered shrines of Goddess Shakti in India. According to the Hindu scriptures, there are four important Shakti Peethas or temples with the highest powers of divinity in the country and the Kamakhya Temple is one of them. The temple celebrates the power of the woman to give birth and is regarded as extremely auspicious among the followers of the Tantrik sect of Hinduism and was built and reconstructed multiple times between the 8th and 17th centuries. The main entrance of the temple is designed with carvings decorated with flowers and the temple has a massive dome and is decked up during the Ambubachi Festival and Fair held in June. One of the oldest temples in the country, the Kamakhya Temple has a long history. It is believed that this temple was built during the Mleccha dynasty in the 8th or 9th centuries. The Kamarupa Kings from Indra Pala to Dharma Pala were ardent followers of the Tantrik cult and at that time this temple became an important destination for Tantrikism. The Kalika Purana was composed in the 10th century and enhanced the importance of the temple as a seat for Tantrik sacrifices and sorcery. Mystic Buddhism or Vajrayana emerged here around that time and several Buddhist professors in Tibet were known to belong to Kamakhya.

The Kamakhya temple was destroyed during Hussein Sha’s invasion of the Kamata kingdom, the ruins remaining undiscovered until the 1500s when King Vishwasingha revived the temple as a site of worship. The Kamakhya temple was reconstructed in 1565 during the reign of his son and ever since then, the shrine has been an important religious centre for Hindus. The current structure of the temple is said to be of the Nilachal type, another word for architecture with a hemispherical dome and a cruciform shaped base. The temple has four chambers aligned from east to west and is described as the Garbhagriha or the main sanctum sanctorum rests on a base that has several sunken panels embellished with the sculptures of Ganesha and other Hindu deities. The lower parts of the Garbhagriha are made of stone while the zenith is in the shape of an octagon and is made out of bricks. The Garbhariha is situated below ground level and can be reached by a series of rock-cut steps. A rock fissure in the shape of a vulva-shaped depression is present here and worshipped as the goddess Kamakhya. The depression is filled with water from an underground spring and this is the general pattern of all the Garbhagrihas in this temple. Towards the west of the Kamakhya temple lies the Calantha, which is a square-shaped chamber of the atchala type. Small moveable idols of Gods and Goddesses are found here, while the walls of this chamber have many images and inscriptions carved onto its surface. To the west of the Calantha is the Panchratna which is a large rectangular construction having a flat roof and five small spires protruding from its roof. Towards the west of the Pancharatna is the last structure of Natamandir which has an apsidal end and ridged roof of the Ranghar type Ahom style. The walls of the Natamandir has inscriptions from Rajewas Singha and Gaurinath Singha inscribed upon them.

Legend has it that during the month of Ashadh or June according to the Gregorian Calendar, the Bramhaputra River that flows beside the temple turns red. It is believed that this is a divine phenomenon and that it happens because the Goddess menstruates during this time. While some people claim it is due to the high iron and Cinnabar deposits in the water, others continue to believe in the miracle and so every year during the Ambubachi Mela, the river and the temple attracts thousands of devotees. The Ambubachi Festival is a celebration of the Goddess’ fertility and the celebration hinges on the belief that the Mother Goddess, Kamakhya, Shiva’s young bride, is menstruating at this time. The Temple remains closed and the Goddess is bathed after those three days after which the normal activities of the temple are resumed. It is believed that at the time of monsoon when this festival is observed, Mother Earth is at her fertile best due to the rain nurturing her womb aka the soil.

On regular days, the temple remains open from 8 am to 1 pm and then again between 2:30 to 5:30 p. Entry fees for the general public are free while for the special entry it is INR 101 and direct entry is INR 501.

The ISKCON temple in Guwahati is known as the Shri Shri Rukmini Krishna, after Rukmani, the wife of Lord Krishna. It is located on a hilltop of the Ulubari Chariali area and is constructed of white marble. The interiors of the temple include the deities of Lord Krishna and Rukmani and there are various halls inside the temple for preaching the teaching of the society which is based on Vaishnavism. The temple is surrounded by lush green gardens which inspires quiet contemplation of the divine.

Dedicated to Goddess Bhuvaneshwari, the white shrine is perched atop a hill adjacent to the. The Bhubaneswari Temple provides visitors with a magnificent panoramic view of the city with the sunset views on the Brahmaputra River as viewed from the hill a must-see when in Guwahati. Though the temple is high upon a hill, it requires a 20-minute walk from the bus stop.

Perched on top of the Chitrachal or Navagraha Hill, the Navagraha Temple is dedicated to the nine celestial bodies. Believed to be the dwelling of the Sun, the temple enshrines nine Shiva Lingas in different coloured clothes representing planetary gods including Chandra or the Moon, Mangala or Mars, Budha or Mercury, Brihaspati or Jupiter, Shukra or Venus, Shani or Saturn, Rahu or the North Lunar Node and Ketu or the South Lunar Node surrounding the Sun or Surya in the middle. Built in 1752 by the Asom King, Raja Rajesvar Singha, the Navagraha Temple is built in the old Shikara style and is known to have survived major earthquakes. Instead of a roof, there is a huge dome with a beehive pattern. The temple premises are also used as a research centre for both astronomy and astrology and offer spectacular views of the Brahmaputra river and the valley below. The temple is open from sunrise to sunset daily.

Perched on the Sukreshwar or Itakhuli Hill on the southern bank of the Brahmaputra river, the Sukreshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Built in 1744, by the Ahom King Pramatta Singha, the temple was improvised and financial changes were made in 1759 by Rajeswar Singha. The temple offers an enchanting view of the valley below with a few steps leading down to the river and is popular for the spectacular sunrise and sunset. The temple is popular for conducting post-death rituals and there is a common belief that rituals here can help the dead attain peace or moksha. The temple complex also houses a Vishnu temple and a few chambers to conduct religious ceremonies. It is also said to house the largest Shivalinga in India. As per Kalika Purana, this hill was originally shaped like a hump of an elephant and hence known as Hastagiri. Open all through the year from 6 am to 7 pm, the best time to visit is during Mahashivaratri.

The Ugra Tara Temple enshrines the deity of Tara Devi. Built in 1725 by the Ahom ruler Siva Singh, the Shakti temple is unique in the sense that it does not have an idol like other temples do, instead, the inner sanctum sanctorum houses a small pit of water which is worshipped as Goddess Tara who is believed to be an incarnation of Goddess Parvati. There is also a water tank called Jorepukhuri, situated to the east of the temple which survived a devastating earthquake that destroyed the upper part of the temple. Goddess Ugra Tara is revered as Goddess Kamakhya and is showered with offerings and sacrifices and it is believed that the Goddess likes consuming meat, coconut and liquor; hence, get offered the same. According to legend, the navel of Goddess Sati is said to have fallen here while another legend suggests that when Lord Yama, the God of Hell complained to Lord Brahma that nobody was being sent to hell from the Kamarupa region because of its sacredness, Lord Brahma, in turn, went to Lord Shiva, and he, in turn, sent Goddess Ugra to drive away from her people and she sent in her army to bring them back. The army met Sage Vashishtha on its way back and disturbed his meditation. In anguish and rage, the sage cursed Goddess Ugra and Lord Shiva and from then on, all the Vedic sadhanas were given up in the Kamarupa region and people started worshipping the Goddess who became a Goddess of the Vamachara sadhana and the army became the Mlecchas. Goddess Ugratara is also worshipped in Buddhism. The temple is open between 5:30 am and 8 pm daily.

Perched on the hillock of Shukleshwar on the Shukleshwar ghats of the Brahmaputra river, the Janardana Temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. While the origin of the temple cannot be traced, it is believed to have been renovated sometime in the 17th century. The temple is an amalgamation of Buddhist and Hindu architectural styles, incorporating design elements from both with milky white interior walls with elaborate carvings of deities. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple enshrines a Buddhist statue and is revered as a place of meditation and worship by both Hindu and Buddhists. According to the myth associated with the temple, Lord Buddha is believed to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and he is known as Lord Janardana. Lord Janandana once fought and defeated the mighty demon Raja Bali in the disguise of a Vamana or a dwarf to protect the people from the wrath of the asuras or the demons. The battle spot came to be known as Janardana Tirtha and later, a temple was constructed around it known as the Janardana Temple. The temple is open from sunrise to sunset every day.

Located 40 km north of Guwahati, the Madan Kamdev Temple is an archaeological find in Baihata Chariali and is spread over an area of 500 metres, perched on top of a hillock. Here, the idols and sculptures of Madan Kamdev are scattered all over and the idols have detailed architecture and carvings on them.

Assam’s capital since 1973, Dispur is a suburb of Guwahati and houses some of the important buildings of the state like Assam Secretariat, State Emergency Operations Center and State Assembly House. Dispur is also famous as a tea auction market and is has beautiful weather throughout the year.

Pandu is another Guwahati suburb and is named after King Pandu, the father of the Pandavas. The Tila Hills here has a temple dedicated to Pandu known as the Pandunath temple. Five Ganesha idols representing the five Pandavas are found here and it is believed that during their exile, the Pandavas hid here under the disguise of Ganesha. The place also presents various other idols.

Built over the Brahmaputra River, the Saraighat Bridge is the first railway-cum-road bridge. The construction of the bridge was started in 1958 and it was first inaugurated for goods trucks in 1962, by then Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. A year later, on 7th June 1963, it was open to public traffic. The double-decker bridge has a road highway on top with a rail line below. Originally built for the North Frontier Railway, the bridge is a vital link between the North East region and the rest of the country; it has Lachit Borphukan Park situated on the south end and Chilarai Park situated on the north end. The 1.4 km long bridge connects both banks of the Brahmaputra river in Saraighat, a small town famous for the huge war between Ahoms and Mughals. An adjacent three-lane concrete bridge was also created and inaugurated in 2017.

The Assam State Zoo cum Botanical Garden or the Guwahati Zoo as it is popularly known spreads over an area of 430 acres of a densely vegetated forest area known as the Hengrabari Forest Area in the centre of Guwahati. Often referred to as the green lung of the city, the zoo is the largest of its kind in the North-East region and has landscape gardens, wildlife and a serene environment. Established in 1958, it is home to 113 different species of animal, with more than 900 animals, birds and reptiles. Over the years, the zoo has created a charming botanical garden in its vicinity. The main attractions of the zoo are the fauna exhibits, the botanical garden, a museum, a reptile house and a herbarium collection. The zoo has started several captive breeding programs to increase the population of endangered species like the one-horned rhinoceros, gharials and white tigers.

Located 18 km southwest of Guwahati, Dipor Bil or Deepor Beel is a freshwater lake in the former channel of the Brahmaputra river. Sprawling over an area of 40 sq km, the lake was declared as a Bird Sanctuary in 1989 owing to its rich biodiversity and heritage and is home to a vast variety of bird species. Dipor Bil offers a spectacular view of the fascinating wetland and rich forest ecosystem with as many as 19,000 different species of rare and endangered birds. In 2002, the Ramsar Convention listed it as a Ramsar site and Birdlife International has also declared it as Important Bird Area (IBA). Winters are the best time to visit as the weather conditions attract hibernating birds from far west and south countries. As per research 18 varieties of phytoplanktons have been found at the site including rare plants like Euryale Ferox, Potamogeton crispus etc. Dipor Bil has been derived from the Sanskrit word Dipor meaning elephants and bil meaning wetland or lake. It is believed that the lakeside was once an important dockyard for the Tai- Ahom and the Mughals and at one point in time, the Kampitha and Rambrai Syiemship which was the political authority of Meghalaya had control over this site. Known to be the largest lake or beel in the Brahmaputra valley of Western Assam, Dipor Bil has also been classified as representative of wetland type under the Burma Monsoon Forest biogeographic region.

Chandubi Lake is a natural lake born when an earthquake hit the region in 1897 and the forest that was there vanished and became the lake. It is located at the foot of the Garo Hills and is surrounded by tea gardens, deep forests and tiny villages and is free from pollution because it is slightly inaccessible. Spread over 2000 hectares, it is a lovely picnic spot that attracts a large number of migratory birds during the winter months. The lake forms the breeding ground of the birds, both residential and migratory. Chandubi which means the setting sun is thought to have gotten the name because an unknown British officer was mesmerised by the sunset here. Another version claims that the legendary merchant Chanda Sadagar used this beautiful lake as a transit point for his business and as the lake grew popular because of the merchant, it eventually came to be associated with his name.  The prominent feature of the lake is the natural lagoon that was formed. The Chandubi Festival usually takes place in the first week of January when local villagers come together to perform traditional dance forms and celebrate their unique culture.

Located in the heart of the city, Nehru Park is a charming garden built in 2000 and named after India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. The park was originally a church with several cemeteries, which was later converted into a park. Nehru Park boasts of 45 sculptures carved out of concrete depicting various dance forms of the state as well as an open-air theatre, a rock garden, a charming lawn and a few artificial ponds. There is also a jogging track and a children’s garden with rides. The musical fountain which starts once night has fallen is a local favourite. The park is closed on Thursdays and other days is open between 10 am and 8 pm. The entry fee for adults is INR 10 per person and a child pays INR 5.

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The Assam State Museum or the Assam Rajyik State Museum is one of the most famous museums of Northeast India that gives insights into the ancient and modern history of the region. The museum was established during the British colonial rule in 1940 and set up by the Kamarupa Anusandhan Samiti, Assam research society to showcase the history, sculptures, and handicrafts of Northeast India. The Museum offers an extensive collection of artefacts and sculptures dating back to the 5th to the 12th centuries to World War II and is divided into various sections each one showcasing a different era in history. The manuscript section displays the ancient manuscripts in Assamese, Tai and Myanmarese with a collection of these documents written on the bark of old trees and well-preserved. The arms and ammunition section has a vast collection of swords and armours from the Medieval to the Mughal period including the Ahom dynasty from the 1200s as well as a collection of ammunition from World War II. The prehistoric terracotta section has on display statues from the Indus Valley Civilization and various terracotta objects extracted from the different parts of Northeast India. The numismatics and metallic sculptures section have a collection of metal relics of Lord Vishnu, Goddess Durga and the Buddha along with a collection of coins from the Mughal and Ahom dynasties. The epigraphy section has a collection of stone and copper inscriptions belonging from the 5th to the 18th centuries while the natural history gallery has the collection of the natural biodiversity of the state including the life of a one-horned rhino. The museum also has on display the various handicrafts and handmade objects of Northeast India along with reconstructed tribal huts. Opened in June 1984, the conservation lab helps to conserve the present collection. During the summer months, the museum is open between 10 am and 5 pm while it is open from 10 am to 4:30 pm during the winter months. The entry fee is INR 5 while a camera fee of INR 10 is levied in case visitors want to photograph the exhibits.

The Guwahati War Memorial opened to the public in December 2016 and is a local favourite. The memorial houses a replica of the Amar Jawan or the eternal soldier and depictions of the Battle of Saraighat between the Mughals and the Ahoms. The entrance is decorated with an army tank used in the war donated by the Indian Army and the Indian Air Force.  There are also a few sculptures on a boat showcasing war scenes on the water. The memorial also displays scenes from the Kargil war, the attack on Karachi by the Indian Navy in 1971 and the Sino-Indian war.

The Regional Science Centre is one of the 27 such centres maintained and administered by the Government of India’s National Council of Science Museums. Locally known as the Science Museum, this is a wonderful initiative to educate, enlighten and entertain the visitors through the medium of science and technology. Established in 1994, the museum houses rare instruments, machinery, rare science equipment and demo experiment setups. The science centre also boasts of interactive displays to learn from, both for kids and adults, ranging from everyday activities to prehistoric exhibits and non-formal science education. In addition to the permanent galleries showcasing various exhibits, the museum also has a dynamic science park, a mock prehistoric park, a superb 3D animation theatre, a spacious auditorium and an inbuilt aquarium. The Science Centre was the first in the entire northeast to have a stereoscopic digital 3D cinema projection facility and another highlight is the Digital Planetarium which provides one with a unique experience of artificial sky gazing. The Magic and Miracle Show enlighten visitors against the misuse and superstitions of magic and in the process educates them to the wonders of science through which magic is possible. The Super Cold Show demonstrates experiments on different elements to exhibit different behaviours on being exposed to super cold conditions while the Sky Observation Programmes enable visitors to witness celestial bodies with the help of a 6-inch refractive telescope. There is also a tiny butterfly park that demonstrates the lifecycle of a butterfly. The science centre is open between 10 am and 5:30 pm but the ticket counter closes at 5 pm. Charges are INR 25 per person for Indians and INR 50 for foreigners. The planetarium show takes place between 12 noon and 3 pm and has a fee of INR 20 while the Super Cold Show which takes place between 11 am and 4 pm has a ticket fee of INR 10. The 3D Film Show and the mock coal mine have multiple timings and have a ticket fee of INR 25 and INR 10 respectively.

At the Guwahati Planetarium, apart from the regular Sky watching sessions, special shows are projected on a dome-shaped overhead screen. These shows are available in Hindi, English as well as Assamese.

Named after the poet-playwright and reformer, the Srimanta Sankardev Kalakshetra is a cultural institution whose aim is to promote the culture, art and tradition of Assam. Built in 1990, the Kalakshetra showcases the artistic excellence of the Northeast and is sprawled over a vast area, boasting a museum, a library, an art gallery and a children’s park among others. The complex has been constructed in the conventional Assamese design and showcases the lives of the local people, groups and sub-groups of the state. The Kalakshetra is open between 10 am and 7:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for Indian adults, INR 10 for children below the age of 14 while foreigners need to pay INR 100. There are camera charges of INR 10 for a still camera and INR 100 for a video camera.

The Maati Centre is an initiative by a former World Bank employee Pabitra Lama Sarmah and her husband, Rishi Raj Sarmah. Established to promote the talents and hand crafted works of local artisans from nonprofit organizations like Tihar Jail and Dastakar Ranthambore, the centre has emerged as a wonderful blend of local culture and regional arts. With the idea to promote handicrafts and heritage, Maati Centre provides a platform to showcase young and independent artists and gives them a broader exposure. The centre protects, documents and maps the oral and folk and tribal arts to restore the long lost culture.

Travel Bucket List: India – Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu Part 3

Dadra and Nagar Haveli

Dadra and Nagar Haveli is composed of two separate geographical entities: Nagar Haveli, wedged between Maharashtra and Gujarat and 1 km to the northwest, the smaller enclave of Dadra, which is surrounded by Gujarat. Silvassa is the administrative headquarters of Dadra and Nagar Haveli. Dadra and Nagar Haveli was ruled by the Portuguese from 1783 until the mid-20th century and captured by pro-India forces in 1954 before being annexed to India as a union territory in 1961 and was merged with Daman and Diu to form the new union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu on 26 January 2020.

The history of Dadra and Nagar Haveli begins with the defeat of the Koli chieftains of the region by the Rajput kings in 1262. With the rise of Maratha power, Shivaji Maharaj captured the region, but Somshah Rana recaptured it in 1690. After the Treaty of Vasai in 1739, Vasai and the surrounding territories came under Maratha rule and soon after they captured Ramnagar but reinstated the ruler, Ramdeo, under conditions. But the Marathas soon captured Nagar Haveli and the surrounding region. The Portuguese were granted the area of Nagar Haveli in 1783 based on the Friendship Treaty of 1779 as compensation for damage to the Portuguese frigate Santana by the Maratha Navy in 1772. In 1785 the Portuguese purchased Dadra, annexing it to Portuguese India. In 1818, the Maratha Empire was defeated by the British in the Third Anglo-Maratha War, and so the Portuguese became the effective rulers of Dadra and Nagar Haveli. Under Portuguese rule, Dadra and Nagar Haveli were part of the Daman district and the two territories formed a single concelho or municipality, named Nagar Haveli until 1885. The Portuguese rule lasted until 1954, when Dadra and Nagar Haveli was captured by supporters of the Indian Union and was the first colony to be freed from Portuguese rule by the Indian Union in 1954, after nearly two centuries of Portuguese rule. From 1954 to 1961, Dadra and Nagar Haveli existed as a de facto state known as Free Dadra and Nagar Haveli but was still recognised internationally as Portuguese possessions. It was merged with the Indian Union in 1961and incorporated as a Union Territory and merged to create a new Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu on 26 January 2020.

Dadra and Nagar Haveli is spread over 491 sq km and comprises two separate geographical units. The larger part, Nagar Haveli, spans a roughly C-shaped area upriver from the city of Daman on the coast, at the centre of which, straddling the border with Gujarat, is the Madhuban reservoir. The smaller enclave of Dadra is a short distance to the northwest. The union territory is in the middle of the undulating watershed of the Daman Ganga River, which flows through Nagar Haveli and later forms the short southern border of Dadra. The towns of Dadra and Silvassa lie on the north bank of the river. The Western Ghats range rises to the east, and the foothills of the range occupy the eastern portion of the district. Maghval, a small enclave village belonging to Gujarat is located within Nagar Haveli, just south of Silvassa.

Silvassa, the administrative headquarters of the union territory is located in the Nagar Haveli pocket and has a large number of factories and industries providing significant government revenue, which allows the city to maintain a low level of taxation. Silvassa is also considered to be the home of Warli culture, the language spoken by the Warli people, similar to both Marathi and Gujarati.

Located around a lake, Island Garden has quaint wooden bridges, pretty thatched huts and paddleboat rides with flowers and a path within it that provides a track for those wanting to walk or jog. Meaning Green Forest, the Hirwa Van Gardens is a popular picnic spot with cascading waterfalls and colourful flowerbeds interspersed amongst the lush green gardens offering its visitors mesmerising sights. 40 km from Silvassa, Dudhani is a large lake which, with the construction of the Madhuban Dam on the Daman Ganga has resulted in the formation of a waterfront in Dudhani. The Nakshatra Garden is an Astro-themed garden, with a large variety of plants and trees linked to zodiac signs. The garden has a dedicated play area for kids as well as numerous little ponds and various species of trees linked by small bridges and serve as a home for various species of ducks. The garden is famous for its medicinal herbs and plants including Ayurvedic herbs. The park is open from 6:30 am to 7 pm every day.

Our Lady of Piety Church was built around 1886 or 1889 in the Portuguese architectural style. The Tapovan Tourist Complex houses a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and lies about 18 km from Silvassa at Bindrabin. The complex also has cottages, a restaurant and an amusement park with fountains and a well-laid garden.

The Lion Safari Wildlife Park is part of the Dadra and Nagar Haveli Wildlife Sanctuary, spread over an area of 25 hectares and is also home to the Asiatic Lion. The best way to explore the park is to take a safari in a bus or van fitted with a mesh screen and spot the lions in their natural habitat. The park also shares the neighbourhood with the Satmalia Deer Park and is open from 9 am to 5 pm. On the way to Khanvel, Satmalia has a wildlife sanctuary with many species of antelope. Many other animals, including sambhar and chital deer, and blackbucks as well as a wide variety of birds, including the flame back woodpecker, peacocks, and thrushes can be spotted. The watchtower near the water hole provides an incredible panoramic view of the sanctuary and the Madhuban Dam.

The Vanganga Lake complex is situated amidst the Island Gardens and offers paddleboat rides as well as a peaceful setting with flowerbeds and lush green gardens around the lake. Unique Japanese style bridges and a modern state of the art Signature bridge connects the central island to the main garden. 20 km to the south of Silvassa, Khanvel is a popular tourist destination and makes for a perfect getaway for those who want a lazy holiday. Khanvel has a crystal blue river flowing by, a forest with rich biodiversity and ancient history.

The Tribal Museum displays the lifestyle and culture of the tribes of Dadra & Nagar Haveli. One can see ornaments, musical instruments, fishing tools, hunting gadgets, agricultural and other household articles used by the tribals of this territory including the Warli, Dodhiya, Kokna and Kathodia. The tribal way of life is displayed through life-size models, wedding dresses and photographs of eventful ceremonies.

This was all about the Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu and is something I am waiting to explore more, given that it is so close to Mumbai. I am planning a short trip there the next time we are in Mumbai.

Travel Bucket List: India – Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu Part 2

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Diu

The district of Diu is made up of Diu Island and two small enclaves on the Indian mainland with the district headquarters at Diu Town and is the ninth least populous district in the country, out of 640. Historically part of the Saurashtra region of Gujarat, under Portuguese rule it mirrored the system of administrative division in Portugal and was headed by a district governor, subordinate to the governor-general of Portuguese India in Goa and remained an overseas territory of Portugal until it was annexed by Indian forces on 19 December 1961. From 1961 to 1987, it was a part of the union territory of Goa, Daman and Diu and in 1987, it became a part of the newly formed union territory of Daman and Diu and in January 2020, became part of the new union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu. Diu occupies an area of 40 sq km and consists of Diu Island and the Ghogolá peninsula on the mainland. 20 km east of Diu Island, is the small territory of Simbor.

Diu Island is where the town of Diu is located.  An island off the southern coast of Gujarat’s Kathiawar peninsula, separated from the mainland by a tidal creek, the island has an area of 40 sq km.

Diu Fort, also known as Praça de Diu in Portuguese was built by the Portuguese during their rule with the town located to the west of the fort. Built in 1535 after a defence alliance forged by Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat and the Portuguese when Humayun, the Mughal Emperor, waged war to annex this territory, the fort had some additions made in 1541 and was strengthened over the years, till 1546. The fort is massive and well preserved with a double moat that must have been impregnable once, but years of sea erosion and neglect are leading to its slow collapse. Cannonballs litter the place, and the ramparts have a superb array of cannons. The lighthouse in the fort is Diu’s highest point, with a beam that reaches 32 km in every direction and spectacular views of the surrounding. There are several small chapels, one holding engraved tombstone fragments. Part of the fort also serves as the island’s jail. The fort commands a magnificent view of the sea, and a jetty constructed on the northwestern coast was once used to trade with Cambay, Broach and Surat in Gujarat. Along with the Basilica of Bom Jesus in old Goa, Diu fort was listed as the seven wonders of Portugal during their colonial rule. The fort is surrounded by water from three sides and is divided into three different segments, the outer wall built along the coastline, the inner wall where guns are mounted and the double moat which stands between the two walls to protect the fort. The double moated wall is built from sandstone and is capable enough to keep the enemies at bay. Three gates lead up to the fortress, and the one used for entry and has five large windows with stone galleries. A permanent bridge leads to the main entryway that is engraved with inscriptions in Portuguese.

Opposite the Diu Fort, is the Panikota Fort also known as the Fortim do Mar, which translates to Sea Fort or Panikotha that was once used as a jail for the Diu Island. A 16th-century ruin, the Panikota Fort is built right at the mouth of the creek and is a magnificent stone structure in the sea. Approximately one nautical mile from the Diu jetty, it also has a lighthouse and a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Sea. The fortress creates a beautiful view whether seen from the jetty, from the villages of Ghoghla, from Diu proper or from the Fort itself.

The St Paul’s Church is named after St. Paul, the Apostle of Jesus also known as the Apostle to the Gentiles, and was built in 1601. Dedicated to Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, it is built in the style similar to Bom Jesus Basilica church at Goa. Illuminated by floodlights at night, the main façade of the church is perhaps the most elaborate of all Portuguese churches in India and is built in a Baroque style of architecture and is the largest and only functioning church in Diu. The interiors of the church are impressive with intricately carved woodwork and the design includes delicate volutes and shell-like motifs. The altar has an image of St. Mary and is carved from Burmese teak with 101 candles around it. Above the altar, there is a blue and white barrel-vaulted nave adorned with priceless old paintings and statues.

Now a museum, the old St. Thomas Church houses antique statues, various stone inscriptions of the earlier rulers, wooden carvings and idols. The huge edifice built in the Gothic architectural style was built in 1598 with a part converted into a museum with artefacts displayed dating to the 16th century. Established in 1593, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi is said to be one of the oldest churches in Diu which is today a hospital. Named after Saint Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone, this hilltop church has a distinct Portuguese architectural style. The wide set of stairs at the entrance leads to its ivory-embellished external feature and offers great views of the Arabian sea.

The Gangeshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located 3 km away from Diu Town in Fudam village. Believed to have been built by the Pandavas, this temple is famous for its five Shiva Lingas, or rocks in the shape of Lord Shiva which is present in the middle of the sea. Only the tip of these rocks can be seen whenever there is a high tide because the seawater submerges them. Gangeshwar refers to Lord Shiva who is considered to be the Lord of River Ganga since the Ganges descended to earth from the locks of Lord Shiva. This temple is also known as the Seashore Temple since it is situated near the seashore. On the rock above the Shiva Linga is a Seshanag which was carved to look out for the Shiva Linga. Lord Ganesha, Lord Vishnu, and Goddess Lakshmi can be found at the entrance of the temple. At the time of high tide rise, the crystal clear water of the tidal waves cleans the whole temple along with the Lingas.

The INS Khukri Memorial is the memorial site of an Indian Naval Ship that sank during the India-Pakistan war of 1971. The submarine was destroyed on 9th December 1971 when torpedo shots were fired on it, sinking the ship 40 nautical miles off the coast of Diu. At the time of the sinking, there were 18 officers and 176 sailors on board. A memorial was set up to commemorate the brave martyrs comprising of a scaled model of INS Khukri enclosed in a glass case.

The Zampa Gateway is a major landmark hemming the northern part of the town. The bright red painted gateway wall is carved with dedicated angels, lions and a priest with an artificial waterfall adding to its beauty.

Located outside the wall of Diu Fort, the Naida Caves are a group of interlinked caves constructed by the Portuguese featuring a big network of tunnels with square hewn steps that remain completely unexplored. These caves are natural and were formed due to geological irregularities and natural processes and came to light after the Portuguese broke down sections of a huge rock formation they used for construction. The caves also have a natural opening that lets in sunlight, making them photogenic. During Operation Vijay several soldiers of the Indian army were stationed at the Naida Caves.

Sunset Point is a beautiful hillock located near the Chakritirath beach, which offers mesmerising views of the sunset. The hillock and the surrounding areas have been beautifully landscaped and illuminated.

A unique experience of the coastal Saurashtra region is the presence of the Hoka Palm trees. As one drives in and around Diu, the trees which are native to the northern half of Africa and regions of the Arabian Peninsula, commonly called Doum Palm trees can be found in large numbers. Diu is the only region in India where these trees are found. The Hoka trees are unique in their structure, with branches and offshoots emanating from their central trunk. The Hoka seed is a beautiful oval sphere, red in colour, resembling a cricket ball, that hangs high up of the palm-like structure of the trees. It is highly edible and local alcohol, Tadi is prepared using the Hoka seeds.

The Nagoa Beach is a horseshoe-shaped beach surrounded by palm trees with white sands and blue waters and is known for its Hoka trees. The beach extends over an area of 2 km from one end to the other and has amazing sunrises and sunsets. Ghogla Beach is located to the north of Diu town and on the mainland and is not very crowded and therefore comparatively cleaner. Chakratirth Beach is adjacent to the town and holds significance in Hindu mythology for being the site of the beheading of the demon Jalandhar by Lord Krishna. Named after the demon, Jallandhar, the Jallandhar Beach lies about 1 km from Diu town and has a temple dedicated to Goddess Chandrika and a memorial atop a hill with a stone structure of the demon Jallandhar. Located on the western end of Diu in Vanakbara village, and also known as Vanakbara Beach, Gomtimata Beach is secluded and has natural white sand. However, this beach is not safe for swimming as it is prone to high tides. It is named after the Gomtimata Temple dedicated to Devi Gomti.

The area on the mainland borders the Gir Somnath district of Gujarat and contains the village of Ghogola which lies opposite the eastern end of the island. The tiny territory of Simbor or Simar, located about 25 km east of the town of Diu, is also part of the district. The exclave has a very thin population, essentially a floating fishing community for part of the year only. The territory of the present-day exclave of Simbor is the same as it was in the colonial era and consists of two plots of land on either side of the estuary of the Sahil or Vançoso River and an islet at the mouth of the river on which is built the Fort St. Anthony of Simbor. The village of Simbor or Simar which lies about 2 km to the northeast and which in the early days had been occupied by the Portuguese for a brief period is not part of the territory and is part of the state of Gujarat.

Travel Bucket List: India – Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu Part 1

A merger between two former Union Territories, the Union Territory of Dadra & Nagar Haveli and Daman & Diu was created when the union territories of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu were merged in January 2020. This makes this Union Territory India’s newest. The territory is made up of four separate geographical entities Dadra, Nagar Haveli, Daman and the island of Diu with all four areas part of Portuguese India with the capital in Velha Goa. The four areas came under Indian administration in the mid-20th century after the annexation of Goa and Daman. The capital city is Daman while Silvassa is the largest city.

Daman and Diu were under Portuguese administration from the 1500s until they came under Indian rule on 19 December 1961, while Dadra and Nagar Haveli were under the Portuguese from 1818 until 1954 and formally became a part of India on 11 August 1961. Dadra and Nagar Haveli was administered as a de facto state, the Free Dadra and Nagar Haveli, before becoming a union territory in 1961 and Daman and Diu were administered as part of the union territory of Goa, Daman and Diu between 1962 and 1987, becoming a separate union territory when Goa was granted statehood. The two union territories were merged to reduce duplication of services and reduce the cost of administration. The town of Daman was chosen to be the capital of the new combined union territory.

Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu is composed of four distinct areas located in Western India. Dadra is a small enclave within the state of Gujarat. Nagar Haveli is a C shaped enclave located between the states of Gujarat and Maharashtra which contains a counter enclave of Gujarat around the village of Maghval. Daman is an enclave on the coast of Gujarat and Diu is an island off the coast of Gujarat.

Daman
Daman is one of the three districts of the union territory on the west coast of India, surrounded by the Valsad district of Gujarat state on the north, east and south and the Arabian Sea to the west. The district has an area of 72 sq km with Daman as the district headquarters and lies at the mouth of the Daman Ganga river. Daman is also famous for its beach, Portuguese colonial architecture, churches, and for the scenic beauty in the twin towns of Nani-Daman and Moti-Daman, which lie opposite each other across the Daman Ganga.

Satrya Kshatrapas under the Kushana emperor seemed to have ruled over Daman during the 1st century. The names of the places, Dahanu, Daman and Pardi, have remained unchanged for the last 2000 years. Rudraman I, grandson of Chastan of the Kadamaka branch of Kshatrapas reconquered a large part of Western India including the seaboard from the river Mahi in Gujarat to Ratnagiri by about 150 AD from Satavahana ruler, Satakarni, and Daman district again passed under the rule of Kshatrapa Vijayasen who seems to have ruled till 249 AD. The district seems to have been subjected to the rule of traikutakas during the 5th century and the Lata Country was ruled by Rashtrakutas of Malkhed in the Deccan directly till 808. By the middle of the 13th century, a Rajput prince Ramsingh alias Ramashah seems to have defeated the Koli chief Nathorat and established himself in the hilly tract at Asheri of Asserseta near Daman about 1262. Daman was occupied by the Portuguese in 1531 and was formally ceded to Portugal in 1539 by the Sultan of Gujarat.

Mirroring the system of administrative division in European Portugal, Daman district was established as an administrative division of the Portuguese State of India in the first half of the 19th century and was made up of the Portuguese territories of Daman, Dadra and Nagar Haveli, headed by a district governor, subordinate to the governor-general of Portuguese India in Goa. The Dadra and Nagar Haveli landlocked parts of the Daman district were occupied by pro-Indian Union forces in 1954. In 1961, Dadra and Nagar Haveli was officially annexed by India, forming a union territory separated from Daman. The rest of the district remained under Portuguese rule until it was annexed by Indian forces on 19 December 1961. From 1961-87, it was a part of the union territory of Goa, Daman and Diu. In 1987, it became a part of the newly formed union territory of Daman and Diu and in January 2020 became part of the new Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu.

The House of Bockage was named after the former residence of the Portuguese poet Bockage and is located just near the gate of Daman Fort. The Collector’s Office, once the centre of administration during the Portuguese rule, is an elegant old building depicting the Portuguese gothic style of architecture. Presently, the building houses the Office of the Collector and the District Magistrate of Daman and is situated in the centre of the city. Also known as the Nani Daman Fort, St Jerome Fort has a huge gateway that faces the river. There is a large statue of St. Jerome inside the fort premises. The complex also contains the church of Our Lady of the Sea and a Jain temple and offers a beautiful view of the fish market below and is a pretty and popular tourist attraction. Nani Daman or Little Daman, as the name suggests, is the smaller of the two parts of the city. The region mainly comprises several Gothic-style churches, a Lighthouse, the famous Nani Daman Fort and an old Jain temple featuring 18th-century glass murals and paintings. There is also a local Dubai market that has everything at a very reasonable cost. The Cathedral of Bom Jesus is a popular place built-in 1603, the design, architecture and craftsmanship reflect the passion with which the Portuguese built this cathedral. Formerly a Catholic monastery and a place of worship, the Dominican Monastery is a historic ruin that served as the headquarters of theological studies in the past and has a beautifully engraved floral stone dotting the main altar. The Somnath Mahadev Temple is an old Hindu shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Shivalinga is believed to have formed in the 19th century at the request of a monk and is famous for hosting an annual fair that attracts thousands of devotees.

The Jetty Garden, located on the shores of the Daman Ganga river near Moti Daman, is an elegantly designed garden with exotic arrangements of fountains with fun rides available to keep children busy. Located close to the Coast Guard Air Station, the Satya Sagar Udyan is lined with colourful fountains, shrub-skirted promenades and enchanting landscape. There is also a temple in the vicinity of the garden. The Mirasol Lake Garden is a man-made marvel which is a popular tourist attraction. Surrounded by a beautiful lake and two islands connected by a bridge, the garden has boat rides and fountains as well as facilities for other activities. With a water park located just next to it, this lake garden also serves as a location for many film shootings. Devka Beach is massive, picturesque and pretty unspoilt with clean blue waters, well-maintained shores and a special amusement park that houses huge fountains and a play area for children. Jampore Beach is located about 5 km from the Moti Daman Jetty and is famous for its blackish mud-coloured water. Away from the hustle of the city, the beach is breezy and covered with trees and a great place to relax. The Lighthouse at Daman offers magnificent sunset views and is a major landmark of the town, situated inside a fort. The Daman Ganga Tourist Complex is a well-planned and beautifully laid out garden that offers a plethora of services and facilities including a cafeteria, a conference hall for meetings, a health club and a theatre.