It’s on the Meter: One Taxi, Three Mates and 43,000 Miles of Misadventures around the World – Paul Archer, Johno Ellison
When three friends – Paul, Johno and Leigh – clicked ‘buy’ on an iconic London cab, little did they know what they were letting themselves in for. Leaving the Big Smoke in their taxi bound for Sydney, the lads began a 43,000-mile trip that would take them off the beaten track to some of the most dangerous and deadly places on earth. By the time they arrived home, they would manage against all the odds to circumnavigate the globe and break two world records.
From altercations with the Iranian secret police to narrowly escaping the Taliban, the trio’s adventure is filled with hair-raising escapades. Feel the fear, revel in the fun and meet some of the hundred passengers the taxi picked up along the way, as the authors take you on their action-packed journey.
No Baggage: A Minimalist Tale of Love and Wandering – Clara Bensen
When Clara Bensen arranged to meet Jeff Wilson on the steps of the Texas State Capitol, after just a few email exchanges on OKCupid, it felt like something big was going to happen. Clara, a sensitive and reclusive personality, is immediately drawn to Jeff’s freewheeling, push-the-envelope nature. Within a few days of knowing one another, they embark on a 21-day travel adventure—from Istanbul to London, with zero luggage, zero reservations, and zero plans. They want to test a simple question: what happens when you welcome the unknown instead of attempting to control it?
Donning a single green dress and a small purse with her toothbrush and credit card, Clara travels through eight countries in three weeks. Along the way, Clara ruminates on the challenges of traveling unencumbered, while realizing when it comes to falling in love, you can never really leave your baggage behind.
This last part, after exploring Bodh Gaya and Vaishali, we shall peek at the offerings in Muzzafarpur, Sitamarhi, Madhubani, Lauriya Nandangarh, Bhagalpur and Bihar’s sole wildlife reserve, the Valmiki National Park Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary.
Muzzafarpur Famous for its Shahi lychees and known as the Lychee Kingdom, Muzaffarpur is the fourth most populous city in Bihar about 72 km north of the capital, Patna. It is located on the banks of the perennial Burhi Gandak River, which flows from the Someshwar Hills in the Himalayas.
The current city was established in 1875 during the British Raj for administrative convenience, by dividing the Tirhut district and was named after an aumil, Muzaffar Khan; and the city came to be known as Muzaffarpur. Muzaffarpur’s significance is due to its position between cultural and spiritual influences and the city is a melting pot of Hindu and Islamic culture.
One of the city’s main attractions is the Baba Garibnath Temple which is home to the shivalinga of Lord Shiva known as Baba Gareebnath. Legend has it that the shivalinga was acquired from the peepal or sacred fig tree where the temple stands today and it is said the man who cut down the tree witnessed blood oozing out of the tree, revealing the shivalinga which compelled him to build the shrine that now attracts a large number of devotees. The Baba Gareebnath temple is especially crowded during the holy month of Shravan, which is in July-August according to the Gregorian calendar.
The Devi Mandir is considered a very holy temple, dedicated to the Goddess Durga. The temple is one of the 51 Shaktipeeth, which are small shrines and big temples dedicated to the Goddess Shakti in all her forms. The temple is actually called Maa Raj Rajeshwari Mandir, which is the form of Durga with 18 hands. The temple sees its largest footfall during the Navratri and Durga Puja time, usually falling sometime in October or November. It is often believed that one’s desires and wishes will come true if one visits and worships the Goddess here. The temple is open from 4 am to 11 pm daily.
Muzaffarpur is known for its lychees and lychee gardens and visiting this place especially in May and June when the lychees are ripe and in perfect taste is highly recommended. The most famous lychee gardens are the Mushahari, Jhapaha and the Bochaha gardens.
The Khudiram Bose Memorial was raised as a tribute to the 18-year-old freedom fighter Khudiram Bose who was executed along with Prafool Chaki in 1908 for throwing a bomb at Kingsford who was the then British session judge of Muzaffarpur.
The Ramchandra Shahi Museum, constructed in 1979 holds exhibits of ancient utensils, artefacts and intricate statues like the Manasa Nag and Ashtadikpal which are unique attractions.
Sitamarhi An ancient town, Sitamarhi is the birthplace of the wife of Lord Ram, Sita. Bordered by Nepal in the North, Sitamarhi is a town of great historical importance and has a large number of tourist attractions. According to mythology, the Goddess Sita was born in an earthen pot under the land of Sitamarhi which is named after her. Sitamarhi has a rich culture of folk arts, dance and music and is well known for its lac bangles and the world-renowned Madhubani paintings.
A temple dedicated to Sita, known as the Janaki temple is located at Punaura Dham Sitamarhi. This is the spot where Goddess Sita appeared in an earthen pot. There were also some submerged building found here at this spot during the earthquake of 1934. Pupri is a village famous for the Baba Nageshwarnath temple of Lord Shiva. The Sita Temple, dedicated to Goddess Sita, has beautiful stone statues of Lord Ram, Goddess Sita and Lord Lakshman preserved in the temple. Haleshwar Sthan is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Haleshwar Sthan is a pilgrimage site in Sitamarhi dedicated to Lord Shiva, which has an ancient Hindu temple and is located 3 km north-west of the town. According to local myth, King Videha founded a temple of Lord Shiva on the occasion of Putra Yeshti Yajna which was the Haleshwarnath temple. A rock-cut sanctuary from the great Mauryan period is found near Sitamarhi. Other places worth visiting are the Janaki temple at Punaura, the Baghi Math, Goraul Sharif, the Shukeshwar Sthan, Bodhayan-Sar and Sabhagachhi Sasaula. Most of the temples close by 10 in the night and open early in the morning.
Madhubani An ancient city, Madhubani for the richness in art and culture that the place strives for. Mentioned in the Ramayana, the city is known for the world popular Madhubani paintings which originated here. The word Madhuban means a forest of honey from which Madhubani is derived, but sometimes it is also said to have been derived from Madhu meaning sweet and Vaani meaning voice or language. The district of Madhubani emerged from the Darbhanga district of Bihar in 1972 during the reshuffling of territorial boundaries. The town has multiple temples which are the main attraction points of the town.
On the road from Madhubani to Jaynagar, Saurath is a small roadside village, known for the popular Somnath Mahadev temple. Each year, all the Maithili Brahmins from the nearby villages meet here during the annual sabha to discuss and negotiate proposals which eventually terminate into weddings which is one of the reasons the temple is very famous. The Bhawanipur village is popular for its Ugaranath temple and its association with the poet Vidyapeeth. According to Indian mythology, Vidyapet was considered an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva, due to which Shiva began serving him as a servant named Ugana. The Ugana Mahadev Mandir is where Lord Shiva revealed his true identity to Vidyapeeth. On the western bank of Thumne river, stands the tall Bhagwati temple. According to historic stories, the goddess Bhagwati blessed the famous writer and poet Kalidas at this spot and it is said that the goddess was supremely impressed by the talent, skills and dedication of Kalidas. To the south-east of the temple is Kalidas’s pathshala. The temple is an ancient site and is built with an Indo Aryan of architecture. It is said that when years ago, the Maharajadhiraaj Shri Rameshwar Singh had insisted on reinstalling the head of the image of the deity, just a night before installation of the newly designed head, the goddess appeared in the king’s dream and asked him it was right for him to create the creator. The head was hence not installed and is still kept right next to the statue of the deity. 9 km from Madhubani is a small village called Kapileshwar which is known for having the Kapileshwar temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple is exceptionally crowded on Mondays especially during the month of Shravan. On the occasion of Mahashivratri, the temple hosts a huge fair in which the entire village plays the host celebrating the occasion with a lot of pomp and show.
Built by Maharaja Shri Rameshwar Singh, the Nagar fort is popularly known as the Naulakha Palace. Situated in Rajnagar on the eastern bank of River Kamla, the palace is an ancient royal palace which is a popular heritage building. The palace boasted of well-paved gardens, tinkering ponds, temple complexes and the like. However, it suffered a major loss and extensive damage in 1934 when an earthquake hit it. It has never been repaired and currently lies in ruins. The Navlakha Palace has a central tower which is seven storeys. Originally, it had a Durga Bhawan towards the north end of the complex. The Bhawan has a glittering pond in the front and a pearly white marble temple dedicated to Goddess Kali to its north. The Durga Bhawan is still in function while the other structures have been dismantled. It is made of ivory marble and resembles the Taj Mahal. The portico has four arches resting on cement elephants. There is a functioning family room in the building called the Gausani Ghar which houses the family deity. It is here that you can also find the oldest existing Mithila painting. Even in ruins, it boasts of an old world charm and brilliant architecture.
Jainagar, also spelt as Jaynagar is a town located situated on the holy Kamala River and is the nearest town to India’s border with Nepal. Jainagar is situated in the centre of Mithilanchal so visitors to this place can immerse themselves in the Mithilanchal culture.
Lauriya Nandangarh Also known as Lauria Nandangarh, Lauriya Navandgarh, is a town in West Champaran situated near the banks of the Burhi Gandak River. The village draws its name from a pillar or laur of Ashoka standing there and the stupa mound Nandangarh about 2 km south-west of the pillar. Remains of the Mauryan period have been found here. Lauriya Nandangarh is also a site for about 20 archaeological banks organized in three rows. Forty pillars were built here by Emperor Ashoka originally but today only one pillar exists in complete form, at its initial position in Lauriya Nandangarh. The Ashokan pillar consists of the six Ashokan proclamations. The height of the pillar is more than twelve meters and the pillar has been inscribed with six Ashokan edicts, issued by the Emperor in the year 244 BC and the top of the pillar is adorned with a lion, in a crouching position. One of the main tourist attractions here is a large stupa, which is believed to be one of the biggest stupas in India which is 24m in height and has a circumference of almost 457 m. The Stupa with a polygonal or cruciform base;[1][5][6] with its missing dome which must have been proportionately tall, the Stupa must have been one of the highest in India. The walls of the four cardinal directions at the base are each 32 m long and the wall between each has a zigzag course with 14 re-entrant and 13 outer angles. An extensive later restoration hid the four upper walls and provided new circular ones; the polygonal plan of the walls of the base and the first terrace were left unaltered. The top of each terrace served as a pradakshina-path or a south facing pathway, though no staircase to reach the top was found in the excavated portion. Lauriya has 15 Stupa mounds in three rows, each row upwards of 600 m; the first row begins near the pillar and goes E to W, while the other two are at right angles to it and parallel to each other. Less than half a km from the village and 2 km from the mound, stands the famous pillar of Ashoka which is a single block of polished sandstone over 32 feet high. The top is bell shaped with a circular abacus ornamented with Brahmi geese supporting the statue of a lion. The pillar is inscribed with the edicts of Ashoka in clear and beautifully cut characters. The lion has been chipped in the mouth and the column bears the mark of time just below the top which has itself been slightly dislodged. Signs of vandalism over the years are clearly visible.
Bhagalpur Also known as the Silk City of Bihar, the historically significant city of Bhagalpur lies on the southern banks of the river Ganges and is the 3rd largest city in the state located about 250 km east of the state capital of Patna. The river Ganges at Bhagalpur is home to the Gangetic dolphin, the national aquatic animal of India with the Vikramshila Gangetic Dolphin Sanctuary established near the town.
Known to be one of the most prominent Buddhist learning centres during the Pala Empire, Vikramshila was established when the quality of education at Nalanda started declining. Founded by the Pala King Dharmapala sometime between the 8th and 9th centuries, Vikramshila was part of the network of the five important learning centres of that time, and it was home to more than 100 teachers and 1000 students. Information on the Vikramshila is mostly found in Tibetan writings of Taranatha, a Tibetan Monk of the 16th and 17th centuries and the subjects taught here included philosophy, metaphysics, grammar, Indian logic, tantra, etc. One of the most famous scholars of Vikramshila was the abbot Atisha Dipankara who also found the Sarma tradition in Tibetan Buddhism. Vikramshila taught its students for more than four centuries before it came to an end when Bakhtiyar Khilji destroyed it in the year 1193 along with the other Buddhist centres.
The Ajgaivinath Temple, located in Sultanganj, is a famous Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva with the idol in the main temple believed to be swayambhu or self-manifested. The temple has been associated with Muni Jahnu, as a belief says that the idol in the temple protruded in Jahnu Muni’s ashram. There is a story which says that when Muni Jahnu was meditating in his ashram, the Ganges on her way to the ocean disturbed Jahnu with the ripples of her waves. Muni Jahnu is believed to have swallowed the whole river, and Muni Bhagirath saved the Ganges by making an incision on Jahnu’s thighs to make way for the Ganges. Thus river Ganges is also known as Jahnavi. The temple is open from 9 am to 12:30 pm and then again between 5 and 8 pm.
The Budhanath temple is one of the main attractions of Bhagalpur and is located on the banks of the Uttaravahini Ganga or the northward-flowing Ganges, spread over three acres. The temple is one of the oldest temples of the region and Baba Budhanath is referred to in the Shiva Puranas as Bal Vridheshwarnath in the first of the eight segments. The Shiva Linga that resides in the temple is believed to have been self-manifested as it is not known about the birth of the Shivalinga.
The Champapur Digambar Jain Mandir dedicated to Vasupujya, the 12th Tirthankara is located in Nathnagar and is an ancient and historical Teerthkshetra. It is believed that all the five Kalyanakas of Vasupujya Tirthankara took place in Champapur which is said to have been the capital of the Anga Kingdom ruled by Karna. The Anga Janpada was one of the 52 Janapada established by Adi Teerthankar Bhagwan Rishabh Deo. Champapur also existed as Mahajanapada among the six Mahajanapadas during the time of Bhagwan Mahavira Swami. The main temple of Champapur is believed to be about 2500 years, adorned with five altars symbolising the Five Kalyanakas. There are two spectacular columns of fame or Keerti Stambhas that have survived among the four that existed on each corner of the compound. The most recent addition to the sculptures is the 31 feet tall statue of Vasupujya that was built under the guidance of a charitable trust based in Nagaland.
Situated beside Bhagalpur Railway Station and founded in 1577 AD, the Khanqah e Shahbazia is one of the most revered shrines of Bhagalpur, visited by people of all faiths every year. A mosque and a shrine of the Sufi Maulana Shahbaz Rahmattullah who is considered to be one of the 40 sacred Sufis sent to spread the message of Allah, the shrine is still being run by his 13th generation descendants. The Mosque was built by Aurangzeb and was frequently visited by him. Every Thursday, visitors assemble at the place to be blessed with most of the visitors from the eastern parts of India and Bangladesh. There is a belief that the water in a pond here has medicinal qualities that can cure illness and snake bites. The Archeological Survey of India has discovered some ancient manuscripts from the Basement of Khanqah-e-Shahbazia. The Khanqah is also famous for its library, which has a vast collection of Arabic and Persian theological texts, including a copy of the Qur’an transcribed by Murshid Quli Khan, the Nawab of Murshidabad in Bengal.
Mandara Parvat is a 750 feet high granite hill located about 48 km to the south of Bhagalpur. According to mythology, Bhagalpur was the place where Samudra Manthan took place, and the Devatas and the Asuras churned the ocean of milk using Mount Mandara to obtain the elixir. The Serpent King Vasuki is said to have offered himself to be used as a rope to churn the ocean of milk, and the faint impressions of a coil on the Mandara hill stand as a proof of this story. One of the Puranas says that Lord Vishnu defeated the demon Madhu and placed the hill, now known as Mandara, over him. The conch shell, Panchajanya, which marked the start of the war of Mahabharata is believed to have been obtained from the Shankha Kunda here. Kalidasa refers to Vishnu’s footmarks on Mount Mandara in his epic Kumarasambhava. The Hill happens to have numerous sculptures of Hindu Gods cut into its Rocks. A belief among the Jains depicts that the 12th Tirthankara, Vasupujya attained Nirvana at the peak of the same hill.
The Vikramshila Setu is 5th longest bridge over water in India. The 4.7 km long two-lane bridge serves as a link between NH 33 and NH 31 running on the opposite sides of the Ganges. This bridge has reduced considerably the road travel between Bhagalpur and places across the Ganges, like Darjeeling, Siliguri, Assam etc. Before the opening of this bridge, steamers were being used for transportation across the Ganga river.
Located 30 km west of the city, the Vikramshila Gangetic Dolphin Sanctuary is stretched for 50 km of the river Ganges, starting from Sultangunj to Kahalgaon. The sanctuary was established in the year 1991 to protect the endangered species of the Gangetic dolphins which were once abundant, but today is in danger of extinction. The Gangetic Dolphins were declared as the National Aquatic Animal of India on 5 October 2009 and classified under the IUCN Red List of 2006 as threatened and endangered species. The Sanctuary is also home for various other aquatic and wild animals that come under the threatened category such as the Indian otter, gharial, freshwater turtles etc and the best time to visit the Sanctuary is between October and June.
The Kuppaghat Ashram is located by the banks of the Ganges. Kuppaghat translates to cave by the banks of a river and has a cave which is believed to have been used by Maharshi Mehi Paramhans as a place for meditation. Kuppaghat has been transformed as Maharshi Mehi Ashram and has grown to be a pilgrimage for the Followers of Santmat. Every year on the occasion of the birth anniversary of Maharshi Mehi, Maharshi Santsevi who was Mehi’s successor and on Guru Purnima, the ashram is visited by many devotees which made the Ashram as the national headquarters of the Akhila Bharatiya Santmat – Satsang. The Kuppaghat Ashram has a well-maintained garden and an orchard with sculptures and paintings of scenes depicting Lord Rama’s visit to Shabari and also of Jatayu’s death in the hands of Ravana along with spiritual quotes.
Valmiki National Park, Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary The Valmiki National Park, Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary is located at the India-Nepal border in the West Champaran district on the banks of the river Gandak and is the only national park in Bihar. The National Park gets its name from Valmiki Nagar, the adjoining town to the forests which is also the only possible entrance to the wildlife reserve. The extensive forest area of Valmiki Nagar, formerly known as Bhainsa Lotan was previously owned by the Bettiah Raj and the Ramanagar Raj until the early 1950s. One of the natural virgin recesses in east India, the Valmiki Tiger Reserve has pristine forest and wilderness which is an excellent example of the Himalayan Terai landscape and covers 899.38 sq km, which is 17.4% of the total geographical area of West Champaran and as of 2018, there were 40 tigers in the reserve. The park is divided into two sections: the wildlife sanctuary declared in the year 1978 covers an area of 545 sq km and the national park which was established in 1990 covers an area of around 335 sq km.
The Valmiki landscape harbours a vivid socio-cultural diversity. Tharu, a scheduled tribe, is the dominant community in the landscape with several theories on the colonisation of this community and maintain socio-cultural relationships with the Tharus of Nepal. Other tribes in the Valmiki landscape are collectively called Dhangar comprising of four tribes, the Oraon, Munda, Lohra and Bhuiya. Communities other than the tribes are called Baaji who are outsiders and involved in agriculture as well as small businesses in the villages.
Flaunting flourishing wildlife with extensive varieties of flora, fauna and avifauna, the highlight of the region is the Bengal tigers. The government further plans to convert 800 hectares of the forest area into grasslands to make it the largest grassland in the country.
The Valmiki Tiger Reserve stays open from 1st October to 31st May with the best season to visit the sanctuary between November to March. The place is dotted with temples, shrines and historical monuments. Some of the prominent and must-visit attractions of the national park include the Bheriyari Watch Tower which is located in the Bheriyari Grassland region and is ideal for bird watching several exotic bird species at play and viewing the herbivores in their natural habitat. Located exactly on the Indo- Nepal Border, the Bhikhna Thori at the northeastern end of the sanctuary is a popular route to Tibet across Nepal. According to local history, this was a resting place called thaur in the local language, for Buddhist monks and hence is called Bhiktchuk Thaur or Bhikhna Thori and is a popular picnic and leisure spot. Rohua Nala is a tributary of the river Gandak and is situated in the Mandalpur range which is a combination of wetlands, forests, swamps and canebrakes and the region has been declared as an Important Bird Area (IBA) by the Indian Bird Conservation Network. Kapan is a major perennial river originating from the Raghia Range. Walking northwards along the river, one can witness one of the most beautiful trails of the park with the forest on the side and the trailing river in the centre. Lalbhitiya is a beautiful vantage point providing a bird’s eye view of pure sal forests with mesmerising sunrise and sunset views. On clear days, one can also see the snow-white pearly peaks of the Himalayas. The Manor Trek is a comparatively easy trek of 1.5 km which can be done solo with the trail passing along the forest to the Manor watchtower which provides majestic views of the adjoining snow-clad Himalayas and beautiful panoramas of the river manor below. Parewa Dah is the most beautiful spot of the forest and a trip to the park is considered incomplete without a visit to this place. Parewa means pigeons and dah means water bodies and Parewa Dah means a place where both these factors co-exist. The water here is so clear that you can even see the fish swimming at shallow levels. Perched at an elevation of 2884 metres, Someshwar Peak is the highest peak in the region which can be reached through a trek of 14 km from the base camp. On the border the Someshwar temple dedicated to Shiva and Kali is located with the ruins of the hermitage of Baba Bhatrihari at the base of the temple, Valmikinagar is the adjoining tiny town with the Gandak Barrage offering magnificent views of the Triveni and iother places from here.
A Gypsy or Jeep Safari for 4 people for 2.5 hours will cost INR 600 per group while 8-person rafting for 3 hours will set your group back by INR 2000 and a 4 person boating will cost you INR 500 per group. A nature walk for a group of 4 to 6 persons for 3 to 4 hours is INR 100 per person and the Border Trek for a group of 10 to 15 persons for 10 to 12 hours is INR 500 per person. The Jungle Camp for 4 to 6 persons for a night will cost INR 200 per person and the Tiger Trail for 4 to 6 persons for 3 to 4 hours will set one back by INR 200 per person. If you like cycling, it will cost INR 20 per hour per cycle.
And with this we come to the end of our journey through the state of Bihar. I really enjoyed reading about this amazing state which has so much to offer, especially to students of history, religion and archaeology. We will soon explore more of what India has to offer and in times like this, armchair tourism is all that we can do!
Bodh Gaya Located 126 km south of Patna, Bodh Gaya is a religious site and place of pilgrimage associated with the Mahabodhi Temple Complex and is famous as it is where Gautama Buddha is said to have attained enlightenment which in Pali means Bodhi under what became known as the Bodhi Tree. Since antiquity, Bodh Gaya has remained the object of pilgrimage and veneration both for Hindus and Buddhists. For Buddhists, Bodh Gaya is the most important of the main four pilgrimage sites related to the life of Gautama Buddha, the other three being Kushinagar, Lumbini, and Sarnath. In 2002, the Mahabodhi Temple became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Considered the holiest site in Buddhism, Bodh Gaya was known as Uruwela during the Buddha’s time and is situated by the bank of the Lilajan River with the first temple at the site built by King Ashoka. The disciples of Gautama Siddhartha began to visit the place during the full moon in the month of Vaisakh during April–May, as per the Hindu calendar. Over time, the place became known as Bodh Gaya, the day of enlightenment as Buddha Purnima, and the tree as the Bodhi Tree. The history of Bodh Gaya is documented by many inscriptions and pilgrimage accounts. Foremost among these are the accounts of the Chinese pilgrims Faxian in the 5th century and Xuanzang in the 7th century. The area was at the heart of a Buddhist civilization for centuries, until it was conquered by Turkic armies in the 13th century. The name, Bodh Gaya, did not come into use until the 18th century. Historically, it was known as Uruvela, Sambodhi meaning complete enlightenment in Ashoka’s Major Rock Edict No. 8, Vajrasana or the Diamond Throne of the Buddha and Mahabodhi or the Great Enlightenment. The main monastery of Bodh Gaya used to be called the Bodhimanda-vihara in Pali and today is known as the Mahabodhi Temple.
The Mahabodhi temple also called the Great Awakening Temple, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that marks the location where the Lord Buddha is said to have attained enlightenment. The temple spreads over an area of 4.8 hectares and is 55 meters tall. The Bodhi Tree is situated to the left of the temple and is believed to be the direct descendant of the actual tree under which Lord Gautam Buddha meditated and attained enlightenment and laid down his philosophy for life. The original temple was built by Emperor Ashoka after he turned to Buddhism to seek peace and solitude from war and conquests around 260 BC. He built a small temple by the Bodhi tree and an inscription dating back to between the 1st and 2nd centuries reads that the temple built by Emperor Ashoka was replaced by a new one. A gold-painted statue of Buddha, built by the Pala kings of Bengal and made of black stone is placed in the sanctum shrine of the ancient temple. The Buddha is seen seated in the Bhumisparsa Mudra asana or the Earth touching posture. The Mahabodhi temple is surrounded by two distinct types of railings on all four sides, and they are about two meters high. The old railings made from sandstone dates back to 150 BC and has illustrations of Goddess Laxmi being bathed by elephants and of Lord Surya riding a chariot that is being drawn by four horses. The newer ones are made of unpolished granite and are believed to have been constructed in the Gupta period and have carvings of stupas or reliquary shrines, garudas or eagles and lotuses made out on them. In 2013, the upper portion of the temple was covered with gold, as a gift from the King of Thailand and the devotees of Lord Gautam Buddha. The original structure was made primarily of brick, covered with stucco, which has survived many years and is one of the oldest and most imposing structures made entirely out of brick standing from the Gupta period. The temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and then again from 4 to 9 pm. There is no entry fee charged, except the ones charged for cameras and video equipment.
Devotees who wish to visit the Brahmayoni Temple must go through a gruelling climb of 424 high stone steps to reach the top of the hill, atop which lies this temple. Two caves namely Brahmayoni and Matreoni are also situated on the hill along with an ancient temple of Astabhujadevi. The Brahmayoni hill was the place where Buddha preached the fire-sermon to a thousand former fire worshipping ascetics and it is said that each ascetic became enlightened after hearing his teachings.
The Sujatha Temple is dedicated to a humble tribal woman named Sujatha who offered pudding to Gautam Buddha. It is said that the pudding was the first meal Gautam Buddha had consumed after years of starvation ever since he renounced the materialistic life including food to attain enlightenment. The temple is considered to be religiously important as the offering is believed to have saved Lord Buddhaês life.
The Daijokyo Buddhist Temple is a tranquil respite for those seeking one amidst beautiful surroundings. The most prominent feature of the temple is the 64 foot tall Great Buddha Statue made of sandstone and granite. It draws visitors in large numbers. The temple also houses a grand meditation hall where one can sit in solitude and soak the peaceful vibe of the surroundings.
Sujata Kuti is a stupa built in the honour of a tribal woman named Sujata who saved Gautam Buddhaês life by offering him rice pudding after he had starved himself for years in the process of attaining Nirvana and renouncing every luxury he had including food. Sujata Kuti, is thus, considered religiously important in the Buddhist Culture.
The Chinese Temple was constructed by Buddhist monks and displays beautiful Chinese artwork with a statue of Lord Buddha within the sanctum. An outstanding example of Buddhist culture and Japanese architecture, the Indosan Nippon Japanese Temple was built in 1972 with the help of the international Buddhist community. The structure of the temple is carved out of wood and it looks like a Japanese shrine. It also showcases a lot of Japanese paintings narrating events from the life of Gautam Buddha. The Vietnamese Temple is the most recently constructed shrine in the area and features a serene-looking statue of Buddha which exudes a calming aura and appears to be smiling.
The Animesh Lochan Chaitya Shrine is where Lord Buddha spent his second week of meditation after attaining Nirvana. It is believed that his meditation involved gazing at the Bodhi Tree continuously without blinking. The place, therefore, was named Animesh Lochan which means Open Eyes and is considered important as it teaches self-control and focus.
The Great Buddha Statue is the tallest in India and was instated by the XIV Dalai Lama in 1989. It is a meditating Buddha resting on a giant lotus, constructed using intricately carved sandstone and red granite.
Situated alongside the Bodhi Temple, Cankamana is a holy shrine featuring a carving of Lord Buddha’s feet into the black stone lotuses.
As its name suggests, the Vishnupad Temple was built as a dedication to Lord Vishnu and features a 40 cm long footprint of Lord Vishnu that is enclosed by a basin made of silver plates. This footprint marks the act of Lord Vishnu subduing Gayasur by placing his feet on Gayasur’s chest. Within the courtyard, there are other temples situated as well. One is dedicated to Lord Narasimha and another to Lord Shiva in the form of Phalgwisvara.
The Jama Masjid is the largest mosque in the state and dates back around 200 years. It was built by the royal family of Muzaffarpur and the shrine is well known for its festival of Shabina when prayers are offered on the 27th night of Ramadan.
The Bodhi Tree is perhaps the most prominent and respected of all sacred places in Buddhism because of the rich historical significance. It is under this tree that Prince Siddhartha Gautama, the spiritual teacher who later became to be known as the Buddha, attained enlightenment. A shrine known as Animisalocana Cetiya was erected on the spot where he had sat down and a small temple built near the Bodhi tree in the 7th century. The Bodhi tree is one of the four main Buddhist pilgrimage sites and the Anandabodhi tree in Sravasti and the Bodhi tree in Anuradhapura, are believed to have been propagated from this tree. The spot where the Buddha stood is marked by the Animeshlocha Stupa, or the Unblinking Stupa, and lies in the northeast of the temple complex. According to legend, the Buddha often walked between the Stupa and the Bodhi tree, and lotus flowers sprung up along this route. This path is now known as the Ratnachakarma or the Jewel Walk. The temple built by King Ashoka was replaced by the present Mahabodhi temple in the 2nd century, and later refurbished in AD 450, 1079 and 1157, and then finally fully restored by the Burmese Buddhists in 1882. An interesting feature is that prayer beads are formed using the seeds of the Bodhi tree which pilgrims consider sacred. Bodhi Day is celebrated here on 8 December annually. Buddhists and followers of Dharma visit this place without fail and greet each other by saying “Budu Saranai!” which translates to “may the peace of Buddha be yours” in English.
Once considered a heritage tree, Ajapala Nigrodha Tree, which no longer exists, is the sacred location where Gautam Buddha completed his fifth week of meditation after attaining enlightenment and held a discourse to address and answer the queries locals had about religion, humanity and equality. Now marked with a pillar, the place still is considered religiously important and is visited by believers.
The Root Institute for Wisdom Culture is a Buddhist Centre that educates and promotes wisdom culture through programmes and social service. It functions as per the Tibetan tradition and is often considered as a spiritual retreat that offers a tranquil atmosphere to study and practise the culture in its true form. The Burmese Vihara Monastery is a spiritual retreat for those who wish to take a break from their stressful lifestyle. Located amidst beautiful gardens, the tranquil monastery was built according to traditional Burmese architecture and houses a Buddha Meditation Hall, a library with a large collection of books on the teachings of Lord Buddha and a guest house. Well known for its curved roof covered with exquisite tiles of gold, the Thai Monastery houses a bronze statue of Buddha and another recently erected 25m high statue in the garden. The Royal Bhutan Monastery has been named as it was built by the King of Bhutan as a dedication to Lord Buddha. Clay carvings are seen on the interior walls of the monastery that depict different aspects of the Buddhist culture.
A popular site at Bodh Gaya, the Muchalinda Lake is located next to the main temple. It is associated with a mythological tale stating that Lord Buddha was protected from the storm by Snake King Muchalinda.
Dungeshwari Hills is where Lord Buddha spent a few years before travelling to Bodh Gaya in search of enlightenment. The hills are mostly known for the caves that Gautam Buddha used for shelter and meditation. The Stupas/ Buddhist shrines exist even today amidst the beautiful natural surroundings. The picturesque location of the Dungeshwari Hills is also a well-known trekking destination and draws enthusiasts in large numbers.
The Archaeological Society of India Museum was established to display ancient articles belonging to the Brahmanical and Buddhist belief, mostly related to the Pala period. Exhibits of splendid stone and bronze statues and sculptures, panels, rods, plaques, pillars, railings, etc are found in the galleries, courtyard and the veranda of the museum that is located inside the Mahabodhi Temple Complex.
The Bodhgaya Multimedia Museum was established to provide a glimpse into the historical life of Gautam Buddha in the most interesting way possible. The museum covers his journey right from his childhood till he attained Nirvana. It also includes content on his teachings and all of this is presented in the form of multimedia and 3D animation movies.
Vaishali A small district and town, Vaishali is equally revered by Hindus, Buddhists and Jains. It is the place where Lord Mahavir was born and is considered as the first republic of the world and the city where Buddha delivered his last sermon. Vaishali is believed to have been named after King Vishal, from the time of Mahabharata. Surrounded by groves of mango and banana and extensive rice field, the village is an important religious and historical attraction site and is flocked by tourists year in and year out.
It was the capital city of the Vajjian Confederacy, considered one of the first examples of a republic around 6th century BC. Gautama Buddha preached his last sermon before his death in 483 BC, then in 383 BC, the Second Buddhist council was convened here by King Kalasoka, making it an important place in both Jain and Buddhist religions. It contains one of the best-preserved of the Pillars of Ashoka, topped by a single Asiatic lion. The city finds mention in the travel accounts of Chinese explorers, Faxian in the 4th century and Xuanzang in the 7th century, which were later used in 1861 by British archaeologist Alexander Cunningham to first identify Vaisali with the present village of Basarh in Vaishali District. Lord Ram’s footprints in Ramchaura temple is why Hindu pilgrims flock to Vaishali, which is also renowned as the land of Amrapali, the great Indian courtesan, who appears in many folktales, as well as in Buddhist literature who later became a disciple of Buddha.
Vaishali is well known for its close association with the Buddha. After leaving Kapilavastu for renunciation, he came to Vaishali first and had his spiritual training from Ramaputra Udraka and Alara Kalama or Alark Ram. After the Enlightenment, the Buddha frequently visited Vaishali and organised his Bhikshu Sangha on the pattern of Vaishalian democracy and established his Bhikshuni Sangha here. His last Varshavasa or rainy season resort was in Vaishali and he announced his approaching Mahaparinirvana or the final departure from the world just three months in advance. Before leaving for Kusinagara, where he died, he left his alms-bowl or Bhiksha-Patra here with the people of Vaishali. The Svetambaras state that the final Tirthankara, Lord Mahavira, was born and raised in Vaishali to King Siddhartha and Queen Trishala.
King Ashoka became a great follower of Buddhism after the massacre of Kalinga and erected his famous Ashokan pillar in Vaishali to memorialise the last sermon of Lord Buddha that took place here. There is a life-like figure of an Asiatic lion engraved, at the top of the pillar facing north, believed to be the direction of Lord Buddha’s last voyage as well as a brick stupa and a pond known as Ramkund next to the pole which makes for a sanctified spot for Buddhists. There is also a small tank here known as Ramkund.
A 125-ft tall peace pagoda which built by the Buddh Vihar society in collaboration with the Japanese government and the Japanese Nichiren Buddhist sect Nipponzan-Myōhōji, the Vishwa Shanti Stupa or World Peace Pagoda is a huge, white, beautiful stupa surrounded by greenery, serenity and a pond where visitors can spend time boating and breathing in the fresh air. A small part of the Buddha’s relics found in Vaishali has been enshrined in the foundation and the chhatra of the Stupa.
Just next to the Pagoda is the Abhishek Pushkarini or the coronation tank which is the tank from whose sacred waters anointed the elected representatives of Vaisali. Near the Coronation Tank is Stupa 1 or the Relic Stupa. Here the Licchavis reverentially encased one of the eight portions of the Master’s relics, which they received after the Mahaparinirvana. After his last discourse the Awakened One set out for Kushinagar, but the Licchavis kept following him. Buddha gave them his alms bowl but they still refused to return. The Master created an illusion of a river in spate which compelled them to go back. This site can be identified with Deora in modern Kesariya village, where Ashoka later built a stupa. Walking around the tank, visitors can find a museum on the north bank which houses the artefacts found during excavation, dividing them into four galleries, one of which has terracotta items of human figures, while another gallery has terracotta items of animal figures with wheels, cast coins etc. The third gallery exhibits antlers, bones and iron and copper commodities while the fourth gallery houses earthenwares.
The Kutagarasala Vihara is the monastery where Buddha most frequently stayed while visiting Vaishali and is located 3 km from the relic Stupa, and on its ground can be found the Ananda Stupa, with an Asokan pillar in very good condition, perhaps the only complete Asokan pillar left standing, and an ancient pond.
Housing some of the beautiful images of Hindu gods and goddesses situated on Bawan Pokhar’s northern end, the Bawan Pokhar temple is a piece of ancient artwork built during the rule of Pal dynasty. An old temple built in the Pala period stands on the northern bank of Bawan Pokhar and enshrines beautiful images of several Hindu gods
The Vaishali museum was established in 1971 by Archaeological Survey of India to preserve and display the antiquities found during exploration of sites with ancient Vaishali. The Vishal Fort is in ruins today and has a 1 km governing house of the Lichchavi tribe.
The Vaishali Mahotsava or the great Vaishali Celebration is held every year on Baisakh Purnima or the Full Moon Day of the 1st Hindu month which occurs during mid-April to celebrate the birth anniversary of the 24th Jain Tirthankar Mahavir who born here in the village of Kundalpur, 4 km from Vaishali.
In our next part, which is the last one, we will explore Muzzafarpur, Sitamarhi, Madhubani, Lauriya Nandangarh, Bhagalpur and the Valmiki National Park, Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary.
Rajgir Historically known as Girivraj, Rajgir is an ancient city which was the first capital of the kingdom of Magadha, which eventually evolved into the Mauryan Empire. The city finds mention in India’s greatest literary epic, the Mahabharata, through its king Jarasandha. Its date of origin is unknown, although ceramics dating to about 1000 BC have been found in the city. The 2,500-year-old Cyclopean Wall is located in the city. Rajgir was the birthplace of the 20th Jain Tirthankar Munisuvrata and is closely associated with the Arihant Mahavira and Gautama Buddha. Both Mahavira and Buddha taught their beliefs in Rajgir during the 5th and 6th centuries BC, and the Buddha was offered a forest monastery here by King Bimbisara and so Rajgir became one of the Buddha’s most important preaching locations. The ancient Nalanda university was located in the vicinity of Rajgir and it was also through Rajgir that the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka travelled to Bodh Gaya around 250 BC when placing the diamond throne or Vajrasana at the great temple where Buddha attained enlightenment.
The name Rajgir came from Rajagṛiha, meaning the house of the king or royal house, or the word Rajgir might have its origin in its plain literal meaning, royal mountain. It was the ancient capital city of the Magadha kings until the 5th century BC when Udayin who ruled between 460 and 440 BC, the son of Ajatshatru, moved the capital to Pataliputra. In those days, it was called Rajgriha, which translates as the home of royalty.
The city is in a valley surrounded by seven hills, namely Vaibhara, Ratna, Saila, Sona, Udaya, Chhatha, and Vipula. The Panchane river flows through the outskirts of the town and the town has also developed as a health and winter resort due to its warm water ponds. These baths are said to contain some medicinal properties that help in the cure of many skin diseases.
The Maniar Matth was once a monastery of a cult that worshipped snakes. This can be seen by the figures of different snakes that are found here. The structure is in the shape of a stupa and named after a small shrine that was found here on excavation. Buddha photos are seen on the outer walls.
The Lakshmi Narayan Mandir has been built over an ancient Buddhist monastery was once present at Tapodharma. There are a few hot springs found at the place and it is believed that these hot water springs have curative properties. The Brahmakund here is a popular spring and its temperature is generally around 45-degree celsius.
Also known as the Vishwa Shanti Stupa, the Japanese Stupa is a pillar situated atop the Gridhakuta hill at an altitude of 400 m and was built as a symbol of world peace by Japan. This marble pillar also showcases four golden statues of Buddha depicting different stages of his life – birth, enlightenment, preaching and death. This location can be accessed by an aerial ropeway.
The Stupa of Sariputra contains the bones of one of the two chief disciples of Gautam Buddha. Sariputra became a celebrated Arhat after he was able to attain salvation following Buddha’s footsteps. The stupa is pyramidal and is imposing in size, surrounded by pillared structures, typical to Buddhist structures. Seven layers of construction explain its colossal size, making it a sight to behold.
The Vulture peak, also known as Griddhakuta is an important pilgrimage site for Buddhists. It is one of the three places where Shakyamuni Buddha or the Gautama Buddha lived for many years and preached the Lotus, Heart and Prajnaparamita sutras. Located on a small hill, just outside of Rajgir, Griddhakuta is a popular sightseeing location perched at an altitude of 400 m. This peak is known as the Vulture’s Peak as it is shaped like a vulture and also provides frequent sightings of the bird as well as offering a brilliant 360-degree view of the entire surroundings.
Makhdum Kund is a shrine of Makhdum Shah, a Muslim Sufi saint popular among Muslim devotees for religious and spiritual purposes. It is a Muslim shrine and also a hot spring near the Vipula Hills. According to local legends Makhdum Shah spent twelve years in the jungles of Rajgir during the 13th century. The hottest spring has a temperature of over 450 degrees Celcius and there are separate areas for men and women to bathe, where the temperature is fitting.
The Ghora Katora Lake derives its name from its shape which is that of a horse and the name means horse bowl. The lake is an excellent picnic spot and is known for being one of the cleanest sight-seeing locations in Rajgir. A local favourite, the lake is located at the same place where it is believed that Jarasandha from Mahabharata had his stable.
Believed to be the place where Bimbisara was confined by his son King Ajatshatru, Bimbisara’s Jail offers a brilliant view of the Japanese Stupa situated on the same hill.
Dating back 2500 years, the Cyclopean Walls are 4 meters wide and encircle the city and are 40 km long. It was built by the Mauryans to fortify the city. Today most of it stands in ruins.
The Hiuen Tsang Memorial Hall was built in memory of the Chinese scholar where he was said to have resided for over 12 years during his time in the country. The memorial hall is home to writings of the scholar about his observations regarding medieval India, which forms the basis of much of the knowledge of that time.
The Chariot Tracks are two thirty-feet long deep marks or parallel furrows cut into the rocks near the Jarasandha monuments and are believed to have been made by Lord Krishna’s chariot when he arrived in Rajgir. Other than the marks, around this area, there is an engraved script which is yet to be decrypted. The script was written at some time between the first and fifth centuries AD, probably in a language unknown today.
Two kilometres away from the jail of Bimbisar, the Sankhalipi Inscriptions are seen to be inscribed on the rocky terrain. Near the inscriptions are the Chariot Tracks. The inscriptions are of great cultural significance, as well as a tourist spot.
Ajatshatru was a king and the ruler of Magadha in the 6th century BC when he built this grand fort known today as Ajatshatru Fort. According to legend, Ajatshatru imprisoned his father Bimbisar in jail inside this fort after he ascended the throne; and Bimbisara, a staunch Buddhist, chose a spot from where he could see Lord Buddha give his sermons every morning. The once sturdy fort is now in ruins.
The Veerayatan Museum is a fascinating Jain museum showcasing the history of each of the 24 Jain Tirthankaras. It features ornate dollhouse-like 3-D panel depictions made from wood and metal. Visitors will see a lot of fantastic art on display here by the artist Acharya Shri who resides here and are a must-see.
The Sonabhandar caves meaning treasure of gold are situated on the southern slopes of the Vaibhava Hills and feature black stone statues of the first four Jain Tirthankaras and Lord Buddha. The caves are two identical caverns cut out of monolithic rocks and it is believed that the treasury of King Bimbisara is still present here and the key to opening the doorway lies in the inscriptions on the walls. . There are seated and standing figures etched onto the walls of the rocks as well as inscriptions in the ancient text of Sanklipi, which say that the cave was used by Jain saint Muni Vairadevi and other ascetics as a refuge.
Located on the Vaibhava Hills, the Saptaparni Caves was the host to the first Buddhist council, attended by over 500 monks and was led by Maha Kashyapa.
Rajgir city is famous for the seven hot springs or Saptarshi, which come and mingle together into a big pool of warm water, named Brahmakund. This is a holy place for bathing of the Hindus, Buddhists and Jains alike. The water is said to contain medicinal properties and healing features and was visited by the likes of Gautam Buddha and Mahavira.
Jivaka’s Mango Garden is located in the Jivakameavan Gardens. Jivaka was the royal physician of Bimbisara and Ajatashatru and had his dispensary within this garden gifted to him by Bimbisara. Jivika used the plants here to make ayurvedic medicines and cure his patients and was famous for being the one who treated Lord Buddha’s wounds when Buddha came to him for treatment. The garden contains the ruins of an old monastery built by the doctor.
Jarasandha Ka Akhara, located near the Vaibhava Hill, was previously a wrestling arena and place for martial arts training for the armies which stood against Lord Krishna and the Yadava clan for King Jarasandha of Magadha. The great battle between Bheema and Jarasandha took place right here which lasted for a month, according to legend, and in the end, Bheema tore Jarasandha’s body into half to defeat and kill him. Now a deserted ruins with overgrown flora, it is a favourite spot for picnickers.
Jarasandha’s Baithak, located near Vaibhava Hill, is a rectangular stone at the foot which was used when Jarasandha of Mahabharata was the rule of Magadha. Locals believe that the place used to be an outpost of the military and had locations which were used as living quarters for the soldiers. The rock has two parallel cuts on it and it is famous, as the belief is that Lord Krishna made the cuts himself during the many battles between Jarasandha and Yadavas.
Yesthivana area used to be a retreat in the forest, but today is a nature park near the Tapovana and is said to be where Lord Gautam Buddha met the Magadha King, Bimbisar before the latter became a devotee. One of the major sights to see here is the 6 feet tall carved statue of Lord Gautam Buddha and the sapling of the Great Mahabodhi Tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment.
Said to be the oldest ropeway in India, the Rajgir ropeway line is the only ropeway in existence in the state of Bihar. The single person seater rope line leads you to the top of the scenic Ratnagiri Hill which houses the famous Vishwa Shanti Stupa, also known as the Peace Pagoda. The chairlift ropeway rises to a height of over 1000 feet from the ground level and is a thrilling ride to undertake. The area falls under the Pant Wildlife Sanctuary which provides unmatched views of the surrounding forest area. Other places of interest nearby include the Sugarakhata Caves which according to legends, was where the Buddha preached the Lotus Sutra and delivered sermons, the Gridhkut peak which was one of the several sites frequented by Buddha and his disciples for training, retreat and delivering of sermons and is frequently mentioned in ancient Buddhist texts. A small, quiet temple situated on the hilltop nearby has amazing views of the surroundings as well as the Ashoka Stupa. The Ropeway is open between 8 am to 5 pm and adults pay INR 60 while children pay INR 30 to go up.
Sasaram Known as the gateway of Vihar to visit Gaya, Rajgir and Nalanda in ancient times, Sasaram, also sometimes spelt as Sahasram, is a city that the Buddha passed through on the way to be enlightened under the Mahabodhi tree in Gaya.
Modern Sasaram city covers the largest sub-metropolitan area of Bihar and is famous for the many religious and historical spots to visit such as Shershah Suri’s tomb, Rohtasgarh fort, Indrapuri Dam, Shergarh fort, Sacred Tarachandi Shaktipith, Gupta Dham and the Tutla Bhawani temple and is surrounded by the scenic mountains of the Kaimur range as well as many as 200 waterfalls, the most famous ones being Manjharkund, Dhuvan Kund, Sitakund and the Tutla Bhavani waterfalls and rivers like the Sone. During the Vedic age, Sasaram was a part of the ancient Kashi kingdom and its name originated from the word Sahastrarama, meaning a thousand groves. Sasaram was once also named Shah Serai or the Place of King as it is the birthplace of the Afghan king Sher Shah Suri, who ruled over Delhi, much of northern India, what is now Pakistan, and eastern Afghanistan for five years, after defeating the Mughal Emperor Humayun.
Sher Shah Suri’s 122 feet red sandstone tomb, built in the Indo-Afghan style stands in the middle of an artificial lake in Sasaram. It borrows heavily from the Lodhi style and was once covered in blue and yellow glazed tiles indicating an Iranian influence. The massive free-standing dome also has an aesthetic aspect of the Buddhist stupa style of the Mauryan period. Built between 1540 and 1545, the mausoleum is three storeys high (122 ft.) and stands proudly in the centre of an artificial square lake. For the same reason, it is also locally known as the Second Taj Mahal of India. The tomb of Sher Shah’s father Hasan Khan Suri is also at Sasaram and stands in the middle of a green field at Sherganj, which is known as Sukha Rauza. About a km to the north-west of Sher Shah’s tomb lies the incomplete and dilapidated tomb of his son and successor, Islam Shah Suri. Sasaram also has a Baulia, a pool used by the emperor’s consorts for bathing. The tomb is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The fort of Sher Shah Suri at Rohtasgarh has a history dating back to the 7th century. It was built by Raja Harishchandra, known for his truthfulness in the name of his son Rohitashwa. It houses the Churasan temple, Ganesh temple, Diwan-e Khas, Diwan-e-Aam, and various other structures dating back to different centuries. The fort also served as the headquarters of Raja Man Singh during his reign as the governor of Bihar and Bengal under the regime of Akbar. The Rohtaas fort in Sasaram was also built by Sher Shah Suri, during the period when Humayun was exiled from India.
The temple of goddess Tarachandi, as well as an inscription of Pratap Dhawal on the rock close to the temple of Chandi Devi, lies about 7 km south of the city. The Dhuwan Kund, located about 4.5 km south of the Tarachandi temple and Gupta Dham are also tourist destinations. Sasaram is also also a famous centre of Shiva Aradhana where devotees assemble in large numbers to worship Lord Shiva. Sasaram is also famous for an inscription by Ashoka which is one of the thirteen Minor Rock Edicts, situated in a small cave of Kaimur hill, near Chandan Shaheed.
Kaimur The Mundeshwari Devi Temple on the Mundeshwari Hills in Kaimur is an ancient temple dedicated to worshipping the eternal duo of Lord Shiva and Shakti. It is considered as one of the oldest temples in India as well as the oldest functional Hindu temple in India with its origin put it around 625 CE and is built of stone, with the temple architecture following a rare octagonal plan. The main deities in the temple are Devi Mundeshwari and the four-faced Shiva linga. It also hosts murtis of Ganesha, Surya and Vishnu. It has been an official subject of archaeological study for some time now, with certain inscriptions dating to 635 CE.
After a study of the broken Mundeshwari inscription of Brahmi script and its two parts found in 1891 and 1903 archaeologists thought the temple to be older than the 4th century. However, the recovery of a royal seal of the great Sri Lankan emperor Maharaju Dutthagamani who ruled between 101 and 77 BC from the place in 2003, established that a group of royal pilgrims or monks from Sri Lanka visited the place during their journey to Sarnath from Bodh Gaya through the famous Dakshinapath highway sometime between 101 to 77 BC and lost the seal here. The existence of Naga or serpent on the four-faced shiva lingam, the Naga janeu or sacred thread on the Ganesha idols, not found anywhere in India, and also on broken pieces scattered around the hill indicated that it was constructed by rulers of the Naga dynasty who ruled between 110 BC to 315 AD who used the serpent as their royal insignia. After this, the date of the Mundeshwari inscription was unanimously decided as 108 AD.
The temple, built of stone, is on an octagonal plan which is rare and is the earliest specimen of the Nagara style of temple architecture in Bihar. There are doors or windows on four sides and small niches for the reception of statues in the remaining four walls. The temple shikhara or tower has been destroyed, however, a roof has been built, as part of renovation work. The interior walls have niches and bold mouldings which are carved with vase and foliage designs. At the entrance to the temple, the door jams are seen with carved images of Dvarapalas, Ganga, Yamuna and many other deities. The main deities in the sanctum sanctorum of the temple are of the Devi Mundeshwari and Chaturmukh or the four-faced Shiva linga with two stone vessels of an unusual design. Even though the Shiva linga is installed in the centre of the sanctum, the main presiding deity, Devi Mundeshwari is deified inside a niche, which is seen with ten hands holding symbols riding a buffalo, attributed to Mahishasuramardini. The temple also has murtis of other popular gods such as Ganesha, Surya and Vishnu. A substantial part of this stone structure has been damaged, and many stone fragments are seen strewn around the temple. However, under the jurisdiction of ASI, it has been the subject of archaeological study for quite some time.
The holy city of Bodh Gaya and the ancient city of Vaishali are are next destinations as we explore Bihar.
Memories and Such 
