Travel Bucket List: India – Kerala Part 2

Our first stop in Kerala is the Kasaragod district which is situated in the rich biodiversity of Western Ghats and is known for the Chandragiri and Bekal Forts, Chandragiri River, historic Kolathiri Rajas, the natural environment of Ranipuram and Kottancheri Hills, historical and religious sites like the Madiyan Kulom temple, Madhur Temple, Ananthapuram Lake Temple and Malik Deenar Mosque. Located close to the Kerala-Karnataka border and closer to Mangalore than the capital of Tiruvanthapuram, Malayalam, Kannada and Tulu are the most widely spoken languages here, along with others like Beary, Konkani are also used by some people. The Malayalam spoken here is influenced by Tulu and Kannada and vice versa.

Bekal Fort: The 300 years old defensive mechanism which is the largest and well-preserved fort makes it one of the best places to view the Arabian Sea from the fort’s observation tower which was once used to fire the cannons. The impressive strength of the fort as well as an old mosque near this fort beings tourists here. Open from 8 am to 5 pm daily, the entrance fee is INR 5 per person for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners.

Chandragiri Fort: Built-in the 17th century by Sivappa Nayak of Bedanore, today only a remnant of its original majestic form of the Chandragiri Fort remains which is protected under State Archaeology Department. The Chandragiri Boat Club nearby offers boat trips to the nearby islands and palm groves, and on some of the islands you can get down and camp. The local fishermen will accompany you in the boat rides, so you will get to know the unabridged stories of the locales, and any compelling story, legend or folklore about the fort, if there is any. Full of artistic and historical significance, this place is visited by locals as well as tourists for the breathtaking view of the estuarine that Payaswini river forms with the Arabian Sea. The fort is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm and entrance fee is INR 5 for Indians and SAARC nationals while foreigners pay INR 100.

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Hosdurg Fort: Also known as Kanhangad Fort, the Hosdurg Fort is a majestic fort which can be seen from distance and was established by the Ikkeri dynasty king Somashekhara Nayaka. Located about 30 km south of Kasaragod. The unique feature to this fort are its round bastions. Today, this fort houses a school and a few government offices. If you are visiting the fort, also visit the popular Nityanandashram which is comprise of nearly 45 caves. Another major spot lying in the proximity to the fort is the Poonkavanam Karpooreshwar Temple. Open 24 hours a day, entrance fee to the fort is INR 5 per adult.

Ananthapura Lake Temple: The only lake temple in Kerala, the Ananthapura Lake Temple is a serene Hindu temple built in the middle of a lake in the village of Ananthapura, with the main deity being that of Ananthapadmanabhan Swami. It is believed that Ananthapadmanabhan settled down here first and then moved to Thiruvananthapuram through a cave which lies to the right-hand side corner of the lake. The cave is said to be a natural structure that separates Ananthapura and Thiruvananthapuram and therefore, these two temples retain the name of the same deity. Carved with mythological tales of Puranas the Ananthapura Lake Temple is a perfect example of nature living in total harmony with each other and it is said the presence of a crocodile named Babiya, believed to be a protector of the lake, never attacks humans even when they use the tank for taking a bath and humans also never treat it differently. Located 12 km north or central Kasaragod, the temple is open from 5:30 to 12:30 pm and again from 5:30 to 7:30 pm and there is no entry fee.

Mallikarjuna Temple: Located in the heart of the town, the Mallikarjuna Temple is considered to be one of the oldest temples here and is renowned for its fascinating musical theater and festival of Yakshagana. Dedicated to Lord Shiva in form of Mallikarjuna, the annual festival which is held in March or April each year for five days at a time, the festival consists of cultural programmes with the last day reserved for the Yakshagana. Built by the Iyer kings, the walls of the temple are adorned with spellbinding paintings and the temple is open 24 hours a day, every day and has no entry fees.

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Trikkanad and Pandayan Kallu: Popularly known as the Dakshina Kashi, Trikkanad and Pandayan Kallu is a temple sitting near the Bekal Fort. Located about 2 km from Trikkanad is the Pandayan Kallu, a rock ascending from the sea which is popular for swimming. The legend behind this rock is when one of the Pandya kings attempted to attack the temple, Lord Shiva changed the temple into a rock. A place nearby known as Palakkunnu Bhagavathi Kshetram is flocked by visitors during the festival of Bhurani held every year.

Bela Church: Believed to be the oldest church in the district, the Bela Church was constructed in year 1890 and is also referred to as ‘Our lady of Sorrow Church’, and is currently managed by the Mangalore Diocese. The church is built in a gothic style and is open daily from 7:30 am to 4:30 pm.

Nellikunnu Mosque: Housing the tomb of Thangal Uppappa, the Nellikunnu Mosque is famous for its Nercha fest which lasts for a week in the month of November. Known for its hypostyle structure, it is known for its Uroos, a ritual celebrated by the local people to remember the demise of the saint Thangal Uppapa. It takes place once every two years and usually in the month of Dul Hajj. Open evert day, all day, there is no entry fee to visit this mosque.

Parappa Wildlife Sanctuary: A paradise for nature lovers, the Parappa Wildlife Sanctuary offers visitors not just nature’s beauty and tranquillity, but also the chance to see many wildlife creatures such as turtle, porcupine, pig, Malabar Hornbill, slender loris and jungle cat in their natural habitats. Blessed with thick cover of evergreen forest and many plants with medicinal value, this sanctuary is a paradise for nature lovers. Located approximately 50 kms southeast of Kasaragod, the sanctuary is open from 8 am to 4 pm daily and does not charge entry fees.

Malom Wildlife Sanctuary: A popular tourist in the Kanhagad region, the Malom Wildlife Sanctuary is all about lush green tropical green forest and variety of wildlife. The sanctuary has a variety of animals and birds including peacock, the Malabar hornbill, wild pig, flying squirrel, rhesus monkey and porcupine etc. If you are lucky, you may also get to see the king Cobra and the Python. A blend of magnificent tropical fauna and wildlife, this sanctuary is home to animals like Elephants, Tigers, Bison, Deers and about 200 species of vivid birds, in case bird watching is your forte. The flora comprises of some rare herbs and other medicinal plants. The sanctuary is about 64 kms southeast of Kasaragod and is open from 7 am to 4:30 pm with an entry fee of INR 20 per adult.

Kammadam Sacred Grove Wildlife Sanctuary: Considered to be the biggest holy plantation in Kerala and linked with Bhagavathi Temple, the Kammadam Sacred Grove Wildlife Sanctuary represents a fascinating blend of sacredness and nature. Adorned with evergreen forests, medicinal plants, shrubs and orchids, one can also witness animals like fox, snake, bat, monitor lizard and civet etc. The sanctuary also houses various types of birds and butterflies.

Kareem’s Forest Park: A paradise for nature lovers, scientists, biologists, environmentalist and students of Ayurveda, Kareem’s Forest Park is believed to be the country’s leading private sanctuary. Situated about 48 kms from Kasaragod, this place is packed with plethora of medicinal plants, flora and fauna. In fact it is like melting pot where different species of animals, insects, reptiles, birds, wild animals, micro-organisms and amphibians inhabits. Holding a collection of exotic flora with a variety of endemic plants, shrubs, and medicinal plants. This place is also home to vivid fauna offering magnificent visuals of nature at its best and all of it created by a single man Abdul Kareem, who turned a barren land to this paradise, what it is today. Open 24/7, there is no entry fee as such, but you can book the tour packages to the forest which start from INR 1300 per person.

Manjeshwar: A beautiful coastal town famous for cashew nuts and a pilgrimage site, Manjeshwar is located about 30 km north of Kasaragod, close to its border with Karnataka. Manjeshwar has a rich history of unity in diversity and today houses about 15 mosques and several temples. This beautiful little coastal town sits over an area of 24 sq kms and is home to about 8500 inhabitants. The official language of the town is Malayalam and Tulu however; most of the locals also speak Kannada due to its proximity to Karnataka. The clean and fresh air, the natural surroundings and the simple lifestyle of the locals are worth experiencing at least once. The town is situated on the southern banks of River Manjeswaram at Bengara Manjeswar are two old Jain Bastis. Bengara Manjeswar is the fishing village of Manjeshwar which also houses the memorial a great poet of Kannada literature, Sri Govind Pai. The Kanwatheertha Beach is a local favourite which was formed as the sea settled in a formation that looks like a swimming pool.

Madhur: Famous for an ancient Srimad Anantheswara Vinayaka Temple, Madhur is located about 8 km northeast of Kasaragod. This temple with striking architecture and admiring turrets and gables is situated in front of the flowing River Madhuvahini giving the temple a mystic charm. The temple is dedicated to Srimad Anantheswara and is also referred to as Madhur Temple or Lord Shiva Temple. The sculptures and wooden carving in the temple depicting the epic Ramayana are awe-inspiring. According to local legend, Tipu Sultan who wanted to attack this temple changed his mind after quenching his thirst after drinking the water from the temple well. One can still witness the mark which is believed to have come from Tipu Sultan’s sword at the temple.

Kumbala: The ancient town of Kumbala situated about 26 km from Kasargod once served as the seat of power for Raja of Kumbala. Today, this place is famous for the temple of Lord Gopalkrishna which is quite popular among the devotees. Previously, this place was named Kanipura, but later it got the name, Kumbala, as the kings of this dynasty ruled the region and have a great influence on the region. This port of the era gone by holds the relics of history and is famed for its tranquility.

Ajanoor: The most striking feature of this small village of Ajanoor, located about 30 kms from Kasaragod is its Madiyan Kulom Temple. If you are looking for spirituality and tranquility amidst nature, the Madiyon Kulom temple is dedicated to Lord Bhadrakali and also houses the idols of Bhagavathi, Kshetrapalan and Bhairavan. The prayer is performed three times in the temple, in noon by the priest while in morning an d evening by a local sect called Maniyanis. A festival organised in May, June, December and January attracts devotees in large numbers.

Nileshwar: Also known as Nileshwaram, Nileshwar is a major town that is located about 42 kms south of Kasaragod. Nileshwaram is also referred to as the cultural capital of the Kasargod district and lies nestled between two rivers, the Nileshwaram Puzha and Thejaswini Puzha. With the Arabian Sea to its west, the town is breathtakingly beautiful and a spectacular site to be at. The name Nileshwaram comes from one of the names of Lord Shiva, Neelakanteshwaran, which means the blue-necked one. The name denotes that Nileshwaram is a land of Lord Shiva. Another story that is related to the name of the place is of Sage Neela, who mounted the deity of Lord Siva thousands of years ago. Nileshwaram once served as the seat of the Nileshwar Rajas of the Kolathiri family and was also associated with the war between the Nileshwar Rajas and the Bednore Nayaks. The town is particularly famous for housing numerous ancient temples that have significant meaning and importance attached to them. In fact, Nileshwar is the perfect place to be for those who wish to explore the rich culture and traditions of Kerala, as well as witness some age-old architectural masterpieces with their near and dear ones. A major town, this town is considered to be a wellness retreat with its own set of backwater stretches, a beach, and a hermitage not yet ruined by tourist influx. You can also go on a houseboat tour and cruise for a few days.

Cheruvathur: A small cosy town about 47 km south of Kasaragod and only 10 kms south of Nileshwaram, Cheruvathur is known for being the birthplace of great 19th century poet Mahakavi Kuttamath of Kerala. His work on musical drama and poem compilations is an excellent source of literary inspiration in Cheruvathur. Though the name was changed to Kuttamath Nagar, it is only officially and most people still call the town Cheruvathur. The etymology of the name has its origin in the Malayalam words “cheriya pathu ooru” which means ten small places. Cheruvathur is a peaceful suburban retreat for a short weekend trip.

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Valiyaparamba: Believed to be one of the most gorgeous backwaters in Kerala, Valiyaparamba is the perfect backwater resort to push your cares away. The lush green groves and emerald green waters add on to the mesmerising pictures. Located about 50 km south of Kasaragod, this coastal island can be visited anytime, but the best time is during the sunrise or sunset time.

Moving on south, our next destination is the district of Kannur. Formerly known as Cannanore in English and Cananor in Portuguese, Kannur was part of the Malabar district in the Madras Presidency during the colonial British rule. The largest city of North Malabar region and 6th largest urban agglomeration in Kerala, Kannur was an important trading centre in the 12th century with active connections with Persia and Arabia. It served as the British military headquarters on India’s west coast until 1887.

Kannur was mostly ruled by the famous Kolathiri Rajas or kings and part of the original city of Kannur was under Kerala’s only Muslim Royalty called the Arakkal. The guerrilla war by the Pazhassi Raja, the ruler of Kottayam province, against the British had a huge impact on the history of Kannur.

Payyambalam Beach: The highlight of Kannur, the unspoiled Payyabalam beach has golden sand and foamy white waves with an incredibly peaceful and inviting aura. The approach to the beach is through a small crossover bridge that is built over a narrow canal. To the right of the bridge are the memorials of Kannur’s important political personalities who have passed away in the recent decades. Palm trees and casuarinas dot the shores in various shades of green and the beach is also a great place to relax and revitalise and spend time in boating, swimming and adventure activities.

Kannur Lighthouse: Being Kerala’s first lighthouse and Kannur’s only one, the Kannur Lighthouse is a pretty big deal. Standing tall at the height of 75 feet, this lighthouse was first built in the early months of 1903. Fully functioning for over a century, this cylindrical concrete tower has managed to withstand the attacks of the Arabian Sea. In the balcony of the lighthouse, there is a light which is lit during the evening as a beacon to sailors. From the lighthouse, you can see panoramic views of the town of Kannur as well as the Arabian Sea, Baby Beach and even parts of the Payyaballam beach. As you go up the spiral staircase to the top of the lighthouse, you can see a variety of ancient navigational equipment. There is a musical fountain show in the evenings and a small auditorium where you can see documentaries about the lighthouse. There is a Lighthouse Museum next to the lighthouse where exhibits include ancient and rare lights, lenses and lamps that were used in the 18th century and a whopping five-ton full-fledge lighthouse equipment display shipped over from the Kutch Strait in Gujarat. There are intricate and immaculate models of different ships and vessels on display here, as well as a giant optic lens used in Minicoy from 1885 to 1962 weighing more than 6 tonnes. The lighthouse and the museum are open from 9 am to 6 pm and there are no entry fees.

Baby Beach: As its name suggests, Baby Beach is a tiny yet attractive beach along the shore of the Arabian Sea with a panoramic view of the azure Arabian Sea. Baby Beach is actually an extension of the Payamballam Beach and is one of those rare rocky beaches where people can sit on the giant rocks and just stare at the waters. Sunrises and sunsets are very popular here.

Muzhappilangad Beach: Also known as the longest drive-in beach in India and the best in Asia as well as the one of the cleanest beaches of Kannur, the Muzzhapilangad Drive-in Beach is Kerala’s only drive-in beach. The concept of drive-in beaches means that you can drive right to the sandy shores of the beach and it is not very often that you get to drive along a 4 km long shoreline that offers an open road with no traffic and a stunning view. You can also go paragliding, parasailing, powerboating and many other water sports at the beach. There is no fee charged to enter the beach but if you want to drive a vehicle on the beach, you are charged INR 10.

St Angelo Fort: The focal point of interest for many dynasties of domestic as well as the international origin and has seen many bitter battles in the quest to conquer it, St Angelos Fort is a popular tourist spot enjoying a panoramic and unobstructed view of the Arabian Sea and also overlooks the mesmerising Mopilla Bay, a natural harbour. The magnificent stone fort was built by the first Portuguese Viceroy of India, Dom Francisco de Almeida, in the early 1500s who then imprisoned his successor, Alfonso de Albuquerque because he did not want to give up the reins of his power, leading to a series of bitter events and conspiracies. Walking around, you can almost picture the battles that this fortress has seen. There are tombstones of the soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the fort, barracks and an old chapel here that you can explore. Kannur’s first ever lighthouse also stands next to the fort. About a century later, the Dutch took over the fort and had it restored and renovated. Bastions were built in and around the fort and the structure brought up to date. St Angelos Fort was eventually sold to the Arakkal royal family during the 18th century. At present, the palace of the Arakkal family stands right next to the fort and has now been converted into a museum. The last known holders of the fort were the British and they did their part by building Kannur’s first lighthouse near the fort. St Angelos is not in its best condition right now, having been destroyed in many areas, the effect of the many wars and years that have passed. The fort is open from 8 am to 6 pm and there is no no entry fee to explore the fort. However, INR 20 is charged as a parking fee, and a toll of INR 20 is levied for using the Cantonment Road.

Arakkal Museum: Celebrating the memory and grandeur of Kerala’s only Muslim royal family – the Arakkal Ali Rajas, the Arakkal Museum was previously a majestic palace of the royal family and their actual place of residence. Today converted into a museum, the palace is an example of muslim architecture and design. The Durbar Hall of this palace, which was once the official venue of gathering for the kings and their nobles, has now been converted into the Arakkal Kettu Museum and is managed by the Arakkal Family Trust. Many artefacts dating to the rule of the Arakkal Dynasty and various relics of the royals are on display at this museum. The Arakkal Dynasty had gained the limelight because of their dominance and monopoly in the spice trade, cultivating excellent relations with Hyder Ali, the Dutch and even emperor Tipu Sultan. The Arakkal Museum does a great job at throwing light on these amazing achievements of the Arakkal Dynasty. There are exhibits on display that evidence the glory of the Arakkals in the maritime trade, including many of their equipment. A lot of the artefacts on display here also evidence trade relations of the Arakkals with the European colonial powers. Apart from the family heirlooms and heritage items, other interesting items on display include the royal copies of the Holy Quran, an old-fashioned telephone, swords, daggers and other artillery used by the royals and even a telescope. Personal items like the Pathayam, which is a chamber used to store precious items and valuables, an Adhara Petti – the royals’ document holder and even the family’s royal seal is also on display here. The museum is open from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm and the entry fee is INR 10.

Sundareswara Temple: A very popular temple in South India, the Sundareswara Temple’s main diety is Lord Shiva who is worshipped and adulated as Lord Sundareswara, the ‘God of Beauty’. Naming the temple Sundareswara was an attempt to remind every visitor that ‘Everyone is beautiful’ and that one should look for the beauty in everything. Famed as one of the largest temples in the district, this majestic temple was built in 1916 with the interiors designed and decorated by the renowned artist and ardent Shiva devotee, Sri Chaithanyaall Swami. Sree Narayana Guru, a social reformer in Kerala, came up with the initiative to build this temple with the idea that people from the lower classes no longer barred from entering places of worship. The Sundareswara Temple also organises an eight-day annual festival between April and May each year, and it stands to be one of the most celebrated festivals in the south. The dates of this festival follow the Malayalam calendar and start from ‘Pooyam Nakshatram’ during the ‘Meenam’ month. The celebration of this festival is quite a pompous affair with lights, decorations and cultural programmes. On the last day of the festival, the ritual of Arattu or the holy bath is held at the Payyambalam Beach where devotees worship the lord and take a bath in the waters of the beach. After this, a celebratory procession is carried out with elephant rides and fireworks, marking the end of the festival. The temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and then again from 5:30 to 8 pm.

Mridanga Saileswari Temple: Located in Muzhakunnu, the Mridanga Saileswari Temple is a revered Hindu temple dedicated to the Goddess Durga and is believed to be among among the top 108 Durga temples in ancient Kerala, the deity here being installed by Lord Parshurama, who is considered to be the sixth avatar of Lord Vishnu. Enshrined as Mridanga Saileswari, a four armed Goddess Durga, she holds a conch and a disc in the arms behind, while one front arm is blessing a devotee and the last one rests on her waist. The temple which was in ruins for a long time has currently been restored to its original royal form. The most important festivals celebrated in the temple are Navratri and Pooram Mahotasavam. The idols at the temple were stolen thrice from the temple premises, but each time, the thieves experienced strange paranormal activity and were forced to return the idols and after these instances, people started believing in the powers of the temple even more. The temple is open from 6 am to 12 noon and then again from 5:15 to 8:30 pm.

Mappila Bay: Also called Mopila Bay, Mappila Bay is a natural harbour which used to serve as a major port connecting the Malabar Islands to faraway lands in its past. The Bay is surrounded by some colonial-era architecture, in the magnificent Fort St. Angelo, built by the Portuguese in the 15th century. There’s also the Arrakulam Palace and Museum on the other side of the harbour, dedicated to the Arakulam kingdom that ruled the Cannanore city-state in the 1500s. There are boating facilities that will take you around the harbour. However, it is advisable to stay only in the inland waters and avoid the coastal waters, that can turn unfavourable as the weather changes.

Parassinikkadavu Snake Park: Regarded as one of the finest snake sanctuaries of Asia, the Parassinikadavu Snake Park is the pride of the south. It is one of the most prominent reptile preservation centres in the country and is the only one in Kerala. Home to over 150 different species of reptiles like crocodiles, monitor lizards and snakes, both venomous and non-venomous, the Parassinikadavu Snake Park also goes a long way to preserve and protect many wild mammals, marine creatures as well as rare avifauna, both endemic and migratory. Established by the Visha Chikista Kendra, a medical institution that offers diagnosis and treatment of snakebites, the main idea behind establishing this park was to explain superstitions about snakes, educate the common man about these species and create the right awareness among them. Each enclosure of the different species of animals has a brief description of their habitat, moods, peculiarities and interesting titbits that educate the visitors about these exotic and truly extraordinary species. The park boasts of housing one of the most venomous snake in the world, the infamous King Cobra with a few of the king cobras here who are adult males having grown to their maximum capacity of 30 feet! Other striking and magnificent snakes include the Spectacled Cobra, Russel’s Viper, Pythons, Pit Viper, Rattlesnake and even Kraits. There are many different water snakes and rat snakes here too, both venomous and non-venomous. The Parassinikadavu Snake Park also boasts of a healthy population of amphibians like crocodiles and monitor lizards, including both- full grown males to newborn hatchlings. Apart from reptiles, you will also find porcupines, jackals, foxes, eagles, storks, peacocks and monkeys here. There are statues of different animals dotted along the entire park, but the most famous figure here is Steve Irwin’s statue holding a crocodile. Since the park also aims at dispelling unjust and false superstitions regarding these creatures, the staff at this park are trained to explain with demonstrations how these superstitions are void and meaningless. There are some shows conducted here by professionals who acquaint the laymen with the amazing capabilities and skills of many of these astounding creatures. Open from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm, entrance fees to the park are free for those below the age of five and above the age of 80 while those between the ages of 6 and 17 pay INR 20, adults between the ages of 18 and 79 pay INR 30.

Pallikunnu: Another major town close to Kannur is Pallikunnu which is best known for its ancient temple, the Shree Mookambika Temple, dedicated to Goddess Mookambika. As per belief, this temple was established by Adi Shankaracharya who first installed the idol in this temple. The presiding deity of the temple is believed to be representing three goddesses namely Saraswati, Mahalakshmi and Shakti. During the months of October and November the temple attracts a large number of devotees during Navratra Festival. Another main attraction of the city is the Kanathoor Maha Vishnu temple.

Pappinisseri: The Moonu Pettumma Palli is a famous mosque which is located in the town of Pappinisseri. Popularly known as Kattile Palli, the mosque is popular for its Kattile Palli Nercha festival. The Aaron church, Shree Vadeswaram Shiva temple of Aroli Village and Keecheri Paalottu Kavuis Temple are the other major attraction of the town.

Parassinikkadavu: About 16 km away from Kannur, Parassinikkadavu is a town popular for its Muthappan Temple and Parassinikkadavu Snake Park. The Muthappan temple, dedicated to Sree Muthappan is the only Hindu temple in the state which witnesses a Theyyam performance daily as per ritual.

Peralassery: At a distance of about 15 km from Kannur is the town of Peralassery, known for its Peralassery Subrahmanya Temple. It is believed that on their way to Lanka to free Goddess Sita, Lord Ram and Lord Laxman, stopped at the temple for a while and they left a bangle here. A significant religious and spiritual site, do visit this one if you find yourself in the town of Peralassery.

Madayipara: Perched upon a hillock near Pazhayagandi, Madayipara is renowned to have some of the most beautiful landscapes in the entire state. Often compared with the famous Tulip Gardens of Amsterdam, Madayipara is better known as ‘the land of flowers’ and changes its appearance with the seasons. Spring decorates the entire hillock in a spectacular gown of vivaciously coloured flora and as summer approaches, the hillock shapeshifts into a glamorous golden field filled with knee-high grass. Come autumn, the place is dotted with leaves that paint the field a raging crimson red while the monsoons decorate the whole 700 acres in striking shades of green. Decorated with a luxuriant variety of 300 flowering plants and more than 30 species of thick grass, Madayipara’s rich ecology draws the attention of 150 different species of stunning butterflies, including the Atlas butterfly, the world’s biggest butterfly. Over 100 species of birds, both endemic and migratory, call Madayipara their home and make this hill station a bird lover’s paradise.

Ezhimala: A 286-meter high hill, located surrounding a pristine beach, Ezhimala is situated at a distance of 38 km from Kannur in Payyanur. Ezhimala has a few carved stone structures, and the herbs found in this location are famous for their unusual medicinal properties. The term Ezhimala is an amalgam of the words ‘ezhu’ and ‘mala’, which mean seven and peaks respectively. A popular hill station in the region of Kerala in southern India, this site also has a rich history as it is believed that the seven peaks have been dropped here by Lord Hanuman while he carried the Sanjeevani herb to Lord Lakshman in Lanka. The Naval Academy Ezhimala (NAVAC), which is the largest in Asia, was inaugurated here in 2009. Ezhimala holds religious value for the Buddhist community, as it is believed that Lord Buddha had graced Ezhimala with his holy presence.

Taliparamba: A small town situated about 25 km from Kannur, Taliparamba is surrounded by lush green fields all around along with ancient tile-roofed houses which together make the place appear so much more beautiful. The Valapattanam and Kuppam rivers flow through this town which is full of temples, mosques, and churches. However, the most frequently is the Taliparamba Sree Krishna Temple which is dedicated to Lord Krishna. A saint named Maharshi Shambara meditated here, and he is the one after whom the temple is named. The front elevation of the temple is simple, but as one gets inside the temple, the main chamber of the temple is filled with exquisite sculptures belonging to the 15th and 16th centuries. The Kanjirangad Vaidyanatha Temple, St. Mary’s Forane Pilgrim Church and the Syed Nagar Mosque are some other tourist attractions in the city. Taliparamba is an important trading centre of hill produce and spices. History has it that the original inhabitants of Taliparamba were the Perinchalloor Brahmin community and initially, there were 2000 Brahmin families who settled down there, but eventually all of them moved out leaving only 45 families today. The District Agricultural Farm, which was started in 1905, and the hanging bridge at Kuttiyeri and Kooveri are famous landmarks of the town.

Kavvayi Islands: Recorded in the travel writings of scholars and explorers Ibn Battuta and Marco Polo, Kavil Pattanam, now called Kavvayi, has been recreated into a beautiful island. Spread over the districts of Kannur and Kasaragod, the Kavvayi islands, also called Kavvayi Kayal are the largest backwater island group in north Kerala. Historically, Kavil Pattanam used to be the hub for the spice and gems trade, through the port of Malabar, which also brought in precious Damascus steel. The port, however, was closed after it was banned by the British in the 17th century and the name Kavil Pattanam was changed to Kavvayi by Sir William Hogan. The backwaters are fed by four rivers and streams – the Kavvayi, Kankol, Vannathichal, Kuppithodu and Kuniyan rivers. The largest island of the island group is Valiyaparamba, and the backwaters near it are also known by the same name. The Payyannur municipality, in an attempt to draw in more tourists, organises kayaking events and has developed a park near the ferry at Kavvayi, which has a breathtaking view of the entire backwaters. Visitors can sit and watch the boats go by, and also avail boating facilities. One of the most popular adventures sports here is water zorbing, where one has to get inside a large inflated plastic ball, to be able to “walk” on the water without getting wet

Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary: Being the northernmost wildlife reserve in Kerala and the only wildlife sanctuary in Kannur, the Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary is quite a big deal. Amidst these sky-touching trees and mesmerising greenery, many exotic wildlife species have marked their territory. Taking a safari through the thick verdure and venturing deeper into the forests, you will encounter many striking and remarkably extraordinary species of animals as well as birds. There are nature camps organised at the Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary that attempt to bring people, especially students closer to wildlife. The sanctuary also has a few trekking locations that have attracted the attention of many tourists. The landscape of the Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary is an interesting one that ranges between a depth of only 50 metres above sea level to an altitude of 1145 metres in the skies at Katti Betta, its highest peak. Dotted with towering trees and dense foliage, this sanctuary is adorned with a beautiful mix of a diverse forestation- evergreen, semi-evergreen and moist deciduous. The diversity in the forestation and the tropical climate makes the Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary an ideal home for more than 23 species of mammals. Going on a safari will get you close to the native residents of the sanctuary like the Sloth Bear, Mouse Deer, Elephant, Sambar, Barking Deer, Wild Boar and Gaur. If you’re in luck, you may also be able to spot leopards, tigers and other wild cats in all their majestic glory. Another interesting resident of this incredible sanctuary is the Malabar Giant Squirrel or the Flying Squirrel, a rare species, and it is an absolute delight to watch these wonderful creatures in action. There are also about 22 species of reptiles and 23 species of amphibians that will make your visit to the sanctuary all the more exciting, like the rare and lethal, King Cobra. The main water body around this sanctuary is the Cheenkannippuzha river, a haven for ornithologists and avifauna enthusiasts. The sanctuary is has more than 188 different species of birds, including scores of endemic and endangered species, including the Great Pied Hornbill, Malabar Grey Hornbill, the Blue Winged Parakeet, Ceylon Frogmouth, Broad Billed Roller and Nilgiri Wood Pigeon as well as 144 beautiful species of butterflies. The sanctuary waters now support over 39 species of fish and are on the way to expand a lot more. Entry to the sanctuary is INR 15 per adult while children below the age of 12 pay INR 7 per child. Foreigners pay INR 150 per person and heavy vehicles need to pay INR 150 while light vehicles pay INR 75 per vehicle and other vehicles pay INR 20. You will need to pay INR 50 for a guide while a video camera will set you back by INR 150 and an ordinary camera will cost INR 25 to take inside. Also note that that smoking, liquor and polythene bags are not allowed within the premises of the Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary which is open from 8 am to 4 pm.

Palakkayam Thattu: Tucked away in the verdant greenery of the Western Ghats and soaring at a dizzying altitude of 3500 feet above sea level, Palakayyam Thattu is one of the most beautiful hill stations in Kerala. Adorned with luxuriously dense greenery, sky-touching trees and majestic hillocks, the view that Palakayyam Thattu enjoys is one that you will rarely find. Owing to its considerable altitude, this hill station is often visited by low hanging clouds that render the entire atmosphere misty and fresh, making it a popular trekking destination.

Paithalmala: A small hill station tucked in the forest of Kodagu, Paithalmala has one of the most beautiful peaks in the Western Ghats. Standing tall at 4500 ft, Paithalmala is the tallest peak in the district and a very popular trekking destination. A 6 km long trek from the base to the top of the hill takes you through dense forests and grasslands, ultimately leading to a watch tower at the top. The watch tower is the highlight of the whole trek as one get to see breathtaking scenery of the Kodagu forests, Coorg Forests and the adjoining areas. Small detours to the nearby ponds or lakes located via the help of the local people can add to your experience of Paithalmala.

As we go southwards, the next district we will be visiting is Kozhikode.

Also known as Calicut, Kozhikode is the second-largest urban agglomeration in Kerala and the 19th largest in the country. During classical antiquity and the Middle Ages, Kozhikode was dubbed the City of Spices for its role as the major trading point of Indian spices. A historical city, it was the capital of an independent kingdom ruled by the Samoothiris or the Zamorins in the Middle Ages. The exact origin of the name Kozhikode is uncertain, but according to many sources, the name Kozhikode is derived from Koyil-kota, meaning fortified palace. The name also got corrupted into Kolikod, or its anglicized version Calicut. The word calico, a fine variety of hand-woven cotton cloth that was exported from the port of Kozhikode, is thought to have been derived from Calicut. It is the historical capital of Kerala as the history dates back to 1498 AD when Vasco da Gama landed in Kappad, near Calicut.

Kozhikode was the capital of an independent kingdom ruled by the samoothiris or the Zamorins in the Middle Ages and later part of the erstwhile Malabar District under colonial British rule. Arab merchants traded with the region as early as the 7th century and the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama landed at Kozhikode on 20 May 1498, opening a trade route between Europe and Malabar. A Portuguese factory and the fort was constructed in Kozhikode for short period between 1511 and 1525, until the Fall of Calicut. The English landed in 1615 by constructing a trading post in 1665, followed by the French in 1698 and the Dutch in 1752. In 1765, Mysore captured Kozhikode as part of its occupation of the Malabar Coast.

Backwaters: Kozhikode has always been a popular for its backwaters which are a distinctive feature and have been generously blessed with abundant natural beauty, dense greenery and exotic flora and fauna. The palm-fringed rivulets, lakes and canals of Kozhikode are decked with engaging beauty. Unlike most rivers that flow towards the direction of the seas and oceans, backwaters are a part of the river that has little or no current and so boating in the backwaters allows you to move against the river’s natural current. Canoli River and Kallai River are blessed with these wondrous backwater streams, and they provide a great opportunity to explore the scenic landscapes of this town. Cruising along the placid backwaters of the Canoli River and Kallai River along the paddy fields, coconut lagoons, narrow canals and coir villages is a treat to everyone looking for a break from the monotony and hurry of our fast-paced lives.

Kozhippara Falls: Easily accessible by roads, the Kozhippara Falls are situated on the borders of Kakkadampoyil on the Malappuram -Calicut District divide in Malappuram. Providing a stunning sight, these falls are best known for its swimming, bird watching and jungle trekking. Also known as Kakkadampoyil Waterfall, the Kozhippara waterfall is located on Kuthradampuzha river area.

Thusharagiri Waterfall: Lying in the Western Ghats, Thusharagiri Fall cascades down as three waterfalls. Located in a small tribal village, the name of the falls means snow covered mountains. It is a trekking and rock climbing haven and the trekking trails towards Lakkidi Ghat passing through thick foliage & lush, green surroundings offers its visitors sheer delight.

Beypore Beach: Located about 10 kms from Kozhikode, Beypore Beach is a beautiful beach on India’s western coastline. The beach is located at the mouth of River Chaliyar and the beautiful skies over the pristine sea and the long stretch of golden sand and the tall coconut trees make for a fabulous vacation destination. Sunsets are a special treat to the eyes and early morning joggers find it a wonderful place to run. Beypore or Beypur port was a bustling trade port in ancient India and the 1500 year old shipbuilding yard in the beach is famous. There is a 2-km long stone bridge leading to the sea which is a major attraction. Beypore is also famous for its water sports. You can also find dolphins swimming in the sea at Dolphin Point which is lined by tall and lush-green coconut trees. One can go boating in the sea as well to spot some friendly dolphins in the sea.

Kozhikode Beach: Also known as Calicut beach, Kozhikode Beach is located on the Malabar Coast and the beach road was named as Gandhi Road after Mahatma Gandhi paid a visit to Calicut in 1934. The place has always been prominent for hosting public meetings and has a long drive from Beypore in the south to Kappad in the north. The beach is ideal for witnessing the orange sunsets in Calicut. It is the most visited beach in Calicut as it is the central beach of the place. As a result of the 28 km long drive; Beypore, Payyanakkal, and Marad; Kallayi, Kuttichira and Thekkeppuram; Vellayil, South Beach and Valiyangadi; Kamburam, Putiyappa and Elathur, all beaches are a part of the Calicut Beach or the Kozhikode Beach. This entire stretch is known as the Beach Road. Located on the western side of Kozhikode town, the beach is easily accessible through 4 roads over bridges in the city. Kozhikode beach has ample illumination and paving stones. The other attractions here include a Lion’s Park and an aquarium, which serve as excellent spots for children visiting the beach. It is open on all days of the week from 8 am to 8 pm and the beach is home to two piers, situated towards the middle of the sea. Each of these piers dates back to a century ago. In the early hours of the morning, people can even spot some dolphins.

Kappad Beach: Famous for being the landing point of Vasco de Gama, Kappad Beach is lined with palm trees and sedimentary rocks. Also known as Kappakkadavu, the beach is perfect for swimming, boating, beach games and other water activities as well as activities like Paragliding, Snorkelling and Surfing. Along with the Pookat Lake and Kadalundi Bird Santuary, Kappad makes your visit to Kozhikode complete.

Thikkoti Light House: Said to be built on the remains of a shipwreck, the Thikkoti Lighthouse is a major attraction and is located on a rocky shoreline. Best known for the scenic views it offers as well as several species of nomadic birds, the lighthouse is a must visit when you are in Kozhikode.

Mananchira Lake and Manchira Square: Spread over 3.49 acres, Mananchira Lake is a freshwater man-made lake in the heart of the city and is fed by a natural spring and was originally the bathing pool of the 14th century ruler Zamorin Mana Vikrama. Manchira Square was opened in 1994 and previously was known as Manachira Maidan and was famous for the football matches played here. Today, it is an architectural wonder in the middle of the city with its open theater, fabulous landscaped lawns, and musical fountains. There is an artificial hill and has been kept as a reminiscent of the ancient times due to its traditional architectural style.

Peruvannamuzhi Dam: Situated 60 km off Kozhikode, the Peruvannamuzhi Dam is a beautiful place surrounded by verdant greenery. The reservoir here offers speed boats and row boats to ride across the Smaraka Thottam, a garden built in the memory of freedom fighters in the region. There is also a crocodile farm & bird sanctuary located a close to the dam for the wildlife lovers. The Dam is easily accessible by bus from Kozhikode.

Tali Temple: Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Tali Temple is one of the oldest temples in the region. It is popular for its five different religious ceremonies performed every day. The Malayalam New Year is the best time to visit the temple.

Lokanarkavu Temple: Situated in Memunda, the Lokanarkavu Temple is a revered Hindu temple and an ancient heritage site. The name Lokanarkavu is a derivation of the Malayalam word Lokamalayarkavu; lokam meaning world, mala meaning mountain and kavu meaning grove. The shrine is a subtle memorial for the valiant heroes of Vadakkanpattu of the bygone era and associates itself with Kalarippayattu, the local martial art. According to lore, the local martial hero, Thacholi Othenan used to worship here everyday. The temple is replete with fascinating murals, frescos and sculptures which are a wonderful depiction of the heroism of those days. Believed to be the official family temple of 500 ancient Aryan Nagariks who migrated to Kozhikode along with their ancestors, the temple enshrines Goddess Durga. There are two adjacent shrines dedicated to the gods Vishnu and Shiva and in addition, a quaint water tank in the centre of the premises accentuates the beauty of the temple built in the spectacular Kerala style architecture with traditional patterns. Pooram is an important festival at Lokanarkavu and it is also the only temple where the unique folk dance Poorakkali is performed during the annual festival. The temple is open from 4 to 9 am and then again between 5 to 7 pm.

Azhakodi Devi Temple: Situated in the heart of Kozhikode city in Thiruthiyadu, the Azhakodi Devi Temple which is also known as the Azhakodi Devi Mahashekthram, is an ancient and renowned Devi temple. The presiding deity Bhadrakali poses in a calm disposition; the other seven maternal incarnations being Brahamani, Maheshwari, Kowmari, Vaishanavi, Vaarahi, Indarni and Chamundi. A Shivalinga is also present in the temple premises and is highly revered. The shrine is the only existing place of worship in Kerala which has two Devis as the chief deities. The majestic idol of Lord Shiva installed in the temple complex symbolises the very famous sensuous dancing sequence of Lord Shiva along with Goddess Parvathi at dusk as Anthimahakaalan. The idol of Nataraja symbolises the rhythmic tandava danced by Lord Shiva. However, the major attraction of the Azhakodi Devi temple is the Kizhakkekavu or the kavu on the east. The Goddess Kali enshrines the Kizhakkekavu and the shrine is thronged by pilgrims day in and day out. Navratri Mahotsav and Vijaydashmi are the main festivals of the temple and are celebrated with grandeur. The temple is open from sunrise to sunset.

Valayanad Temple: Situated in Valayanad near Kozhikode, the Sree Valayanad Devi Temple is dedicated to Goddess Bhagvathy or Goddess Parvathy. Believed to have been built in the 14th century by the Zamorins, the temple has a unique architecture and is different in plenty of aspects from all other Devi temples in the area. The shrine faces north and has four magnificent gopurams which each face a direction. The poojas performed in the Shatheya temple are based on the Saktheya injunctions and are in accordance with the practice of Ruruji worship. The Moosads practice the Kashmiri way of prayers and worshipping. Built in the traditional Dravidian style of architecture, the Sreechakra is a major attraction of the temple. Designed by Sivayogi Thayyavur Sivasankar, this sreechakra is placed in the sanctum sanctorum which is believed to be the permanent place of residence of the Goddess. The sanctum sanctorum also has carvings of the Sapthamathrukkal or the seven mother Goddesses on its southern walls. Besides this, the temple also enshrines idols of Lord Shiva, Godess Thevaara Bhagavathi, Lord Ayyappa, Lord Vigneswara and Ksethrapaalan or Lord Subrahmanya and is open between 4 to 9 am in the morning and then again between 5 to 7 pm in the evening. A legend of the temple goes that Valayanad Bhagvathy was the family deity of Zamorin and he believed that she favoured Valluva Konathiri, the king of Valluvanad. To get to the truth of the matter, Zamorin prayed to the Goddess to appear before him, which she did. Zamorin requested her to follow him to his kingdom, the Devi agreed but had one condition. She said she will follow Zamorin only till the time he doesn’t doubt her but if he turns back to look, the Devi would retreat. Zamorin did as was told; however, some time later he couldn’t hear the tinker of Devi’s anklets so he turned to look. As per the condition, the Devi decided to go back but as a present to Zamorin’s devotion she said she would throw her bangle to Kozhikode. The place where the bangle would fall would have her presence forever and always. The bangle fell is the spot where the temple stands today.

Varakkal Temple: Located at the West Hill area, the Varakkal Temple is the 108th and also the last Devi Temple built by Lord Parshuram, the legendary founder of Kerala. A common myth states that Lord Parshuram ploughed this area in order to make the Devi appear in front of him. Popular for promoting cultural arts in the ancient era, the temple is thronged by thousands of devotees annually to perform Vaavu Bali, a local ritual performed for the departed souls. Enshrined by Goddess Bhagvathy, the temple has smaller shrines of Ganapati, Dakshinamoorthy and Sree Ayyappan. Another major festival of the temple is Navratri which is celebrated with a lot of zeal and fervour. Legend goes to say that Lord Parshuram prayed to Goddess in the Threthayuga, an ancient period of time when the Devi appeared before him and promised to be present at a particular place on the Vaavu day or the full-moon night to bless his followers. On hearing this, Lord Parshuram established the temple at the spot and over the years, the was abandoned. The Zamorin then took responsibility of the temple, got it renovated and started the traditions again and till today, the temple is managed by the successors of Zamorin. The temple is open between 5 am to 12 noon and then again from 5:30 to 8 pm.

Mishkal Palli Mosque: Believed to be constructed around 700 years ago at Kuttichira, the Mishkal Palli Mosque was named after Nakhooda Mishkal, an Arab merchant who established this mosque, which doesn’t have any minarets making it unique.

Muchundi Palli: This 13th century mosque with beautiful wooden carved ceilings and double tiled roofs is built in the unique temple style of architecture. The mosque is well known as Sheikh Zainuddin Makhdoom II’s mosque, who is the author of the famous book Tuhafat Ul Mujahideen. The mosque houses a stone slab inscribed in Arabic and an earlier form of the Malayalam script which depicts the story of the Zamorin king of the area.

Juma Masjid: Located at Kuttichira, this mosque can be traced back to 14th century with the capacity to accommodate around 1000 worshipers at a time. Built in Kerala style of architecture, it has beautiful wooden carved ceilings. Among the mosques in Kerala, this mosque has the largest floor area and is open to Muslims only.

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Matri Dei Cathedral: B uilt in Roman style of architecture, the Matri Dei Cathedral is one among the older churches of Malabar, tracing back its history to 1513 AD and housing a 200-year old portrait of St. Mary. It is also referred to as Mother of God Cathedral.

Sargaalaya Kerala Arts & Crafts Village: Located near the beautiful backwaters of Iringal near Vadakara, the Sargaalaya Kerala Arts and Crafts village is a wonderful initiative by the Department of Tourism, Kerala. An exquisite blend of brilliant hand crafted designs and age old traditions, the centre boasts of rich craftsmanship displays and some incredible handiworks of local artisans. Sprawling over a vast 20 acres of land, the village was inaugurated with the objective to promote tourism along with encouraging the local arts and crafts. Boasting over 60 stalls, the village also houses The Crafts Design and Technology development centre which facilitates training for enthusiastic craftsmen and helps them learn new techniques and skills in traditional handicrafts. The village hoists the annual Sargaalaya Iringal International Festival between December 20th and January 5th every year where artisans and craftsman from all over the world are invited to display their talents and skills. The village is open from 10 am to 6 pm and entry fees for adults is INR 30 while children pay INR 15.

Pazhassiraja Museum: Located on East Hill, the Pazhassiraja Museum has been named after the great Pazhassiraja Kerala Varma of the Padinjare Kovilakom of the Kottayam Royal Family. The museum is famous for its various archaeological remains such as antique bronzes, ancient paintings and the historical umbrella stones etc.

Regional Science Centre & Planetarium: Situated in the JafferKhan Colony, the Regional Science Centre and Planetarium sprawls over 4,000 sq m and aims at encouraging and propelling science along with spreading awareness of intimidating science techniques and methodologies in everyday lives through active interaction and participation. The gallery showcases umpteen experiments and models with an objective to inculcate scientific temper in the society. The premises house a quaint well-maintained dome-shaped planetarium with a seating capacity of 250 people and airs an absolutely spectacular hybrid show of the stars and movement of the planets. The 3D show puts up another enthralling show and the centre has three permanent galleries as well as an audio-visual auditorium, science demonstration section, children’s activity nook, library and a telescope corner for star gazing. The centre is open from 10:30 am to 6:30 pm. The 3D show timings are 11 am, 1 pm, 3 pm and 5 pm. The planetarium show timings are 12 noon, 2 pm, 4 pm and 6 pm. Entry fees are INR 25 for adults and INR 15 for children.

Art Gallery: If you are a Raja Ravi Varma fan, then this museum is definitely up your alley. And if not, you can still appreciate the Indian themed paintings using western style techniques of oil on canvas and the life-like form of European Art.

Indian Business Museum: Inaugurated in 2013 and sprawling over an area of 23,000 sq ft, the Indian Business Museum was opened with the objective to safeguard and perpetuate the rich business history of India. The museum showcases the business history over the years and was constructed by spending INR 1.5 crores. Today many Indian business giants including the Tatas, Godrej, Reliance, Reserve Bank of India and Infosys have set up their gallerys inside the museum and also has a Malabar Pavillion. The museum is closed on weekends and during the week is open from 10 am to 5 pm.

Deepanjali Lamp Museum: Possibly the only lamp museum in India, the Deepanjali Lamp Museum is located in Puthiyangadi and houses an extensive collection of lamps dating back to the 19th century including primitive brass lamps, wick lamps, indian heritage lamps, gas lamps, cart lamps etc.

KIRTADS: Located seven km from Kozhikode, the Kerala Institute for Research, Training and Development of Scheduled Castes and Scheduled Tribes or KIRTADS, is a museum that chronicles tribal lives of Kerala. It exhibits tools and devices used by tribal communities and have a good library with books on Anthropology and Sociology.

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Kadalundi Bird Sanctuary: Spread over a cluster of islands, surrounded by beautiful hillocks lies the Kadalundi Bird Sanctuary which is located on the Kadalundi River. This virgin land, 200 m above sea level, is home to 60 migratory and more than hundred native birds. The river flowing inside forms a union with the Arabian Sea at a point called Kadalundi Nagaram. This river houses a variety of fish, crabs, and mussels. You must visit the sanctuary between December and April when the forest seems no less than a green blanket and most of the birds are visible. The sanctuary is open 24 hours and there is an entry fee of INR 25 per person.

Sarovaram Bio Park: Located in Kottooli near Kozhikode, Sarovaram Bio Park is a venture by the government to conserve the rich mangrove forests and wetlands of Kerala. Situated adjacent to Canoly Canal, the bio reserve has been developed on an eco-friendly theme and it aims to preserve and protect its rich ecosystems and biodiversity. Abounding in natural beauty and blooming with verdant greenery and wildlife, the park is a wonderful break which allows visitors soak in the rejuvenating environment. Spread over 200 acres of protected land, the Sarovaram Bio Park is a part of the extended project undertaken by the Government of India to protect the identified 27 wetlands. Other attractions in the park include a canal walkway, boating facilities, otter park, butterfly park, bird sanctuary, aquarium, amphitheatre, floating rafts, musical fountains and a children’s park. Built in the traditional Kerala style architecture, the park is especially popular among locals especially morning and evening joggers. The park is open between 10 am and 7:30 pm with an entry fee of INR 30 per person.

Beypore: A cosy coastal town tucked away near Kozhikode, Beypore is located at the mouth of the Chaliyar River and the town is covered in vibrant shades of green and surrounded by mystic shades of blue. When this area was under the reign of Tipu Sultan, the ruler of Mysore, it was named Sultan Pattanam. In spite of being a small town, it is very famous for ship-building. The shipbuilding yard here is renowned for the construction of Urus and Dhows, the traditional Arabian trading vessel. This craft is over 1500 years old now and is carried out carefully by the expert craftsmen. The flagship vessel of Lord Horatio Nelson, the British admiral who defeated Napoleon Bonaparte in the battle of Trafalgar in 1805 was made in Beypore along with numerous other vessels of his celebrated fleet. It is said that the wooden barges that sailed during the reign of Cleopatra were also said to have been made at Beypore. No matter how big the ships are, they are made without a formal plan or design without any sketches ever made. The Beypore Port is a prominent port and active fishing harbour. In fact, there is evidence that suggests direct trade links between Beypore and Mesopotamia. The Beypore Port holds a great historical significance, it acted as a major maritime trading centre for Arab, Chinese and European travellers. Soon after prospering as a marine trading centre, ship building activities started growing to cope with the increasing demands for ships in Western Asia. Beypore was ruled by the family of the Beypore branch of the Parappanad family. It was first visited by Romans and then by Chinese, Syrians, Arabs and Europeans for trade. During the early 19th century it was further expanded under the East India Company and it is believed that the Beypore Siva Temple protects the whole kingdom.

Elathur: Surrounded by a lake on one side, and a river on the other, Elathur is a quaint little village with serene surroundings. The place is also a paradise for seafood lovers as you will be served with some of the best seafood, fresh-water fishes and toddy to complete the beach-side experience.

Payyoli: Located 36 km north of Kozhikode and renowned as the hometown of the famous athlete P. T. Usha Payyoli was first recognised when Vasco Da Gama, the famous Portuguese traveller, discovered a sea route to India and arrived at Kappad Beach, 21 km from Payyoli. The entire village is cradled in the laps of nature and has been blessed with scenic beauty like nowhere else. The palm-fringed Payyoli Beach is a major attraction here and is the getaway relief for many travellers. During December, thousands of Olive Ridley Turtles crawl onto the beach and lay eggs and many visitors throng the beach to see this phenomenon. The beach is also very close to an estuary of the Moorad River which is an absolute haven for bird watchers. Other crowd pullers at Payyoli are the Kunjali Marrrakar Museum, Velliyamkallu and the Trikkottur Perumalpuram Temple.

Kakkadampoyil: Located about 48 km from Kozhikode, Kakkadampoyil is a small village at an elevation of more than 2000 feet and is has dense forests surrounding it with pristine waterfalls and deep valleys, adding to the village’s charm and is often referred to as Malabar’s Ooty.

Moving further south, our next destination is the Wayanad district which hugs Kerala’s eastern border.

Travel Bucket List: India – Kerala Part 1

Our next state in this series where we visit various Indian states is in God’s own country which is Kerala. A state on the southwestern Malabar coast, Kerala was formed on 1 November 1956, following the passage of the States Reorganisation Act, by combining the Malayalam-speaking regions of the erstwhile states of Travancore-Cochin and Madras. Spread over 38,863 sq km, Kerala is the twenty-first largest Indian state by area and is bordered by Karnataka to the north and northeast, Tamil Nadu to the east and south, and the Lakshadweep Sea to the west. It is also the thirteenth-largest Indian state by population and is divided into 14 districts with Tiruvanthapuram being the capital and Malayalam being not just the the most widely spoken language, but also the official state language. Kerala is a relatively prosperous state with it’s economy being the 10th largest in the country and has the distinction of having the highest literacy rate in India with a literacy rate of 96.2% according to a 2018 survey as well as the highest life expectancy at 77 years; and the highest sex ratio in the country at 1,084 women per 1,000 men. The state also has the highest media exposure in India with newspapers publishing in nine languages, mainly English and Malayalam. The state has witnessed significant emigration, especially to the Arab states of the Persian Gulf during the Gulf Boom of the 1970s and early 1980s, and its economy depends significantly on remittances from a large Malayali expatriate community. The culture of Kerala is a synthesis of Aryan, Dravidian, Arab, and European cultures, developed over millennia, under influences from other parts of India and abroad.

The Chera Dynasty was the first prominent kingdom based in Kerala. The Ay kingdom in the deep south and the Ezhimala kingdom in the north formed the other kingdoms in the early years of the Common Era. The region had been a prominent spice exporter since 3000 BC. The region’s prominence in trade was noted in the works of Pliny as well as the Periplus around 100 AD. In the 15th century, the spice trade attracted Portuguese traders to Kerala, and paved the way for European colonisation of India. At the time of Indian independence movement in the early 20th century, there were two major princely states in Kerala-Travancore State and the Kingdom of Cochin. They united to form the state of Thiru-Kochi in 1949. The Malabar region, in the northern part of Kerala, had been a part of the Madras province of British India, which later became a part of the Madras State post-independence. After the States Reorganisation Act, 1956, the modern-day state of Kerala was formed by merging the Malabar district of Madras State, excluding the Gudalur taluk of Nilgiris district, Topslip and the Attappadi Forest east of Anakatti, the state of Thiru-Kochi excluding four southern taluks of Kanyakumari district, Shenkottai and Tenkasi taluks and the taluk of Kasaragod, now Kasaragod District in South Canara or Tulunad which was a part of Madras State.

A prominent tourism destination, Kerala is well known for its backwaters, hill stations, beaches, Ayurvedic tourism and tropical greenery. It is also well known for the production of pepper, natural rubber and cahew.

The name Kerala has an uncertain etymology. One folk etymology derives Kerala from the Malayalam word kera which means coconut tree and alam, meaning land; which makes Kerala the ‘land of coconuts’, a nickname for the state used by locals due to the abundance of coconut trees. The word Kerala is first recorded as Ketalaputo in a 3rd-century BC rock inscription left by the Maurya emperor Ashoka who ruled between 274 and 237 BC, one of his edicts pertaining to welfare. This contradicts the theory that kera is from coconut tree. At that time, one of three states in the region was called Cheralam in Classical Tamil where Chera and Kera are variants of the same word. The word Cheral refers to the oldest known dynasty of Kerala kings and is derived from the Proto-Tamil-Malayalam word for lake. The earliest Sanskrit text to mention Kerala as Cherapadha is the late Vedic text Aitareya Aranyaka. Kerala is also mentioned in the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, the two Hindu epics. The Skanda Purana mentions the ecclesiastical office of the Thachudaya Kaimal who is referred to as Manikkam Keralar, synonymous with the deity of the Koodalmanikyam temple.  Keralam may stem from the Classical Tamil cherive-alam which means declivity of a hill or a mountain slope or chera alam meaning land of the Cheras. The Greco-Roman trade map Periplus Maris Erythraei refers to Kerala as Celobotra.

According to the Sangam classic Purananuru, the Chera king Senkuttuvan conquered the lands between Kanyakumari and the Himalayas. Lacking worthy enemies, he besieged the sea by throwing his spear into it. According to the 17th century Malayalam work Keralolpathi, the lands of Kerala were recovered from the sea by the axe-wielding warrior sage Parasurama, the sixth avatar of Vishnu which is why Kerala is also called Parasurama Kshetram or the Land of Parasurama. Parasurama threw his axe across the sea, and the water receded as far as it reached. According to legend, this new area of land which extended from Gokarna to Kanyakumari was filled with salt and unsuitable for habitation, so Parasurama invoked the Snake King Vasuki, who spat holy poison and converted the soil into fertile lush green land. Out of respect, Vasuki and all snakes were appointed as protectors and guardians of the land. Another much earlier Puranic character associated with Kerala is Mahabali, an Asura and a prototypical just king, who ruled the earth from Kerala. He won the war against the Devas, driving them into exile. The Devas pleaded before Lord Vishnu, who took his fifth incarnation as Vamana and pushed Mahabali down to netherworld to placate the Devas. There is a belief that, once a year during the Onam festival, Mahabali returns to Kerala. The Matsya Purana, among the oldest of the 18 Puranas, uses the Malaya Mountains of Kerala and Tamil Nadu as the setting for the story of Matsya, the first incarnation of Vishnu, and Manu, the first man and the king of the region.

A substantial portion of Kerala may have been under the sea in ancient times with marine fossils found in an area near Changanacherry, supporting the hypothesis. Pre-historical archaeological findings include dolmens of the Neolithic era in the Marayur area of the Idukki district. They are locally known as “muniyara”, derived from muni meaning hermit or sage and ara or dolmen. Rock engravings in the Edakkal Caves, in Wayanad date back to the Neolithic era around 6000 BC. Archaeological studies have identified Mesolithic, Neolithic and Megalithic sites in Kerala and studies point to the development of ancient Kerala society and its culture beginning from the Paleolithic Age, through the Mesolithic, Neolithic and Megalithic Ages. Foreign cultural contacts have assisted this cultural formation with historians suggesting a possible relationship with Indus Valley Civilization during the late Bronze Age and early Iron Age.

Kerala has been a major spice exporter since 3000 BC, according to Sumerian records and it is still referred to as the Garden of Spices or as the Spice Garden of India. Kerala’s spices attracted ancient Babylonians, Assyrians and Egyptians to the Malabar Coast in the 3rd and 2nd millennia before Christ with the Phoenicians establishing trade with Kerala during this period. The Land of Keralaputra was one of the four independent kingdoms in southern India during Ashoka’s time, the others being Chola, Pandya, and Satiyaputra and scholars hold that Keralaputra is an alternate name for the Cheras, the first dominant dynasty based in Kerala. These territories once shared a common language and culture, within an area known as Tamilakam. Along with the Ay kingdom in the south and the Ezhimala kingdom in the north, the Cheras formed the ruling kingdoms of Kerala in the early years of the Common Era. In the last centuries before Christ, the coast became important to the Greeks and Romans for its spices, especially black pepper. The Cheras had trading links with China, West Asia, Egypt, Greece, and the Roman Empire and the region was known as Male or Malabar. Contemporary Sangam literature describes Roman ships coming to Muziris in Kerala, laden with gold to exchange for pepper and one of the earliest western traders to use the monsoon winds to reach Kerala was Eudoxus of Cyzicus, around 118 or 166 BC, under the patronage of Ptolemy VIII, king of the Hellenistic Ptolemaic dynasty in Egypt. Merchants from West Asia and Southern Europe established coastal posts and settlements in Kerala with the Jewish connection starting in 573 BC. The Arabs also had trade links with Kerala, starting before the 4th century BC, and in the 4th century, the Knanaya or Southist Christians also migrated from Persia and lived alongside the early Syriac Christian community known as the St. Thomas Christians who trace their origins to the evangelistic activity of Thomas the Apostle in the 1st century. The earliest Saint Thomas Christian Churches, Cheraman Jumu’ah Masjid which has been traditionally dated to 629 AD is regarded as the first mosque of India and Paradesi Synagogue built in 1568 AD is the the oldest active synagogue in the Commonwealth of Nations and these were all buiit in Kerala.

The Namboothiri Brahmins migrated to Kerala during the early Middle Ages and apart from introducing the caste system, they also changed the socio-economic life of the people by commissioning new religious centres. A second Chera Kingdom, also known as the Kulasekhara dynasty of Mahodayapuram which is in present day Kodungallur, was established by Kulasekhara Varman, which ruled over a territory comprising the whole of modern Kerala and a smaller part of modern Tamil Nadu. During the early part of the Kulasekara period, the southern region from Nagercoil to Thiruvalla was ruled by Ay kings, who lost their power in the 10th century, making the region a part of the Kulasekara empire. Under the Kulasekhara rule, Kerala witnessed a developing period of art, literature, trade and the Bhakti movement of Hinduism. A Keralite identity, distinct from the Tamils, became linguistically separate during this period around the seventh century. For local administration, the empire was divided into provinces under the rule of Naduvazhis, with each province comprising a number of Desams under the control of chieftains, called as Desavazhis. Portuguese invasions in the 15th century caused two major religions, Buddhism and Jainism, to disappear from the land. It is believed that the Menons in the Malabar region of Kerala were originally strong believers of Jainism and the social system became fractured with divisions on caste lines. In the 14th century, Ravi Varma Kulashekhara who ruled between 1299 and 1314 in the southern Venad kingdom was able to establish a short-lived supremacy over southern India. After his death, in the absence of a strong central power, the state was divided into thirty small warring principalities; the most powerful of them being the kingdoms of Samuthiri in the north, Venad in the south and Kochi in the middle. In the 18th century, the Travancore King Sree Anizham Thirunal Marthanda Varma annexed all the kingdoms up to Northern Kerala through military conquests, resulting in the rise of Travancore to pre-eminence in Kerala.The Kochi ruler sued for peace with Anizham Thirunal and Malabar came under direct British rule until India became independent.

After Vasco Da Gama’s arrival in Kappad Kozhikode in 1498, the Portuguese began to dominate eastern shipping, and the spice-trade in particular and established a trading center at Tangasseri in Quilon during 1502 as per the invitation of the then Queen of Quilon to start spices trade from there. The Zamorin of Kozhikode permitted the new visitors to trade with his subjects such that Portuguese trade in Kozhikode prospered with the establishment of a factory and a fort. The Portuguese took advantage of the rivalry between the Zamorin and the King of Kochi allied with Kochi. During Francisco de Almeida’s reign as Viceroy of Portuguese India from 1505, the Portuguese managed to dominate relations with Kochi and established a few fortresses on the Malabar Coast. An insurrection at the Port of Quilon between the Arabs and the Portuguese led to the end of the Portuguese era in Quilon. In 1571, the Portuguese were defeated by the Zamorin forces in the battle at Chaliyam Fort. The Portuguese were ousted by the Dutch East India Company, who during the conflicts between the Kozhikode and the Kochi, gained control of the trade who in turn were weakened by constant battles with Marthanda Varma of the Travancore Royal Family, and were defeated at the Battle of Colachel in 1741. An agreement, known as “Treaty of Mavelikkara”, was signed by the Dutch and Travancore in 1753, according to which the Dutch were compelled to detach from all political involvement in the region. Marthanda Varma annexed northern kingdoms through military conquests, resulting in the rise of Travancore to a position of preeminence in Kerala. In 1766, Hyder Ali, the ruler of Mysore invaded northern Kerala and his son and successor, Tipu Sultan, launched campaigns against the expanding British East India Company, resulting in two of the four Anglo-Mysore Wars. Tipu ultimately ceded the Malabar District and South Kanara to the company in the 1790s with both being annexed to the Madras Presidency of British India in 1792. By the end of 18th century, the whole of Kerala fell under the control of the British, either administered directly or under suzerainty. There were major revolts in Kerala during the independence movement in the 20th century; most notable among them being the 1921 Malabar Rebellion and the social struggles in Travancore. In the Malabar Rebellion, the Mappila Muslims of Malabar rioted against Hindu zamindars and the British Raj. Some social struggles against caste inequalities also erupted in the early decades of 20th century, leading to the 1936 Temple Entry Proclamation that opened Hindu temples in Travancore to all castes.

After India’s independence, Travancore and Kochi were merged on 1 July 1949 to form Travancore-Cochin. On 1 November 1956, the taluk of Kasargod in the South Kanara district of Madras, the Malabar district of Madras, and Travancore-Cochin, without four southern taluks, which joined Tamil Nadu, merged to form the state of Kerala under the States Reorganisation Act. A Communist-led government resulted from the first elections for the new Kerala Legislative Assembly in 1957 and was one of the earliest elected Communist governments.

Unlike how I go about exploring a state, starting from its capital and then moving to other cities, since Kerala is long and narrow, we will start from the north and work our way to the south and the state capital of Thirvanthapuram.

In My Hands Today…

Gweilo: Memories Of A Hong Kong Childhood – Martin Booth

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Martin Booth died in February 2004, shortly after finishing the book that would be his epitaph – this wonderfully remembered, beautifully told memoir of a childhood lived to the full in a far-flung outpost of the British Empire…

An inquisitive seven-year-old, Martin Booth found himself with the whole of Hong Kong at his feet when his father was posted there in the early 1950s. Unrestricted by parental control and blessed with bright blond hair that signified good luck to the Chinese, he had free access to hidden corners of the colony normally closed to a Gweilo, a ‘pale fellow’ like him. Befriending rickshaw coolies and local stallholders, he learnt Cantonese, sampled delicacies such as boiled water beetles and one-hundred-year-old eggs, and participated in colourful festivals. He even entered the forbidden Kowloon Walled City, wandered into the secret lair of the Triads and visited an opium den. Along the way he encountered a colourful array of people, from the plink plonk man with his dancing monkey to Nagasaki Jim, a drunken child molester, and the Queen of Kowloon, the crazed tramp who may have been a member of the Romanov family.

Shadowed by the unhappiness of his warring parents, a broad-minded mother who, like her son, was keen to embrace all things Chinese, and a bigoted father who was enraged by his family’s interest in ‘going native’, Martin Booth’s compelling memoir is a journey into Chinese culture and an extinct colonial way of life that glows with infectious curiosity and humour.

Travel Bucket List: India – Madhya Pradesh Part 6

Gwalior is closer to New Delhi and Agra than the capital of Bhopal and not too far from the state borders. Gwalior is a major city in this area which occupies a strategic location in the Gird region of India. The historic city and its fortress have been ruled by several historic northern Indian kingdoms, from the Kachchhapaghatas in the 10th century and the Tomars in the 13th century, it was passed on to the Mughal Empire, then to the Maratha in 1754, followed by the Scindias in the 18th century. Gwalior was also the winter capital of the state of Madhya Bharat which later became a part of the larger state of Madhya Pradesh. Prior to Indian independence, Gwalior was a princely state of the British Raj with the Scindia as the local rulers. High rocky hills surround the city from all sides, on the north it just forms the border of the Ganga- Yamuna Drainage Basin. The city however is situated in the valley between the hills. Gwalior was one of the major sites of rebellion during the 1857 uprising and post-independence, it has emerged as an important tourist attraction in central India.

According to local tradition, Gwalior owes its name to a sage. Suraj Sen, a local prince, is said to have lost his way in the forest when he an old man on a secluded hill, the sage Gwalipa, whose presence there took him by surprise. Upon asking the sage for some drinking water, he was led to a river, where the waters not only quenched his thirst but also cured him of leprosy. Out of gratitude, the prince wished to offer the sage something in return, and the sage asked him to build a wall on the hill to protect the other sages from wild animals which often disturbed their yajnas or pujas. Suraj Sen later built a palace inside the fort, which was named “Gwalior” after the sage, and eventually the city that grew around the fort took the same name. The river from which Suraj Sen quenched his thirst later also came to known as Swarnrekha Nadi.

The earliest historical record found at Gwalior is the Gwalior inscription of the Alchon Hun ruler Mihirakula. Around the 9th century, the Gurjara-Pratihara dynasty controlled Gwalior and during their rule, they constructed the Teli ka Mandir temple. In 1231 Iltutmish captured Gwalior after an 11-month-long effort and from then till the 13th century it remained under Muslim rule. In 1375, Raja Veer Singh was made the ruler of Gwalior and he founded the rule of the Tomar clan. During those years, Gwalior saw its golden period. The Jain Sculptures at Gwalior Fort were built under Tomar rule. Man Singh Tomar made his dream palace, the Man Mandir Palace, now a tourist attraction at Gwalior Fort. By the 15th century, the city had a noted singing school which was attended by Tansen. Later in the 1730s, the Scindias captured Gwalior and it remained a princely state during the British Rule.

Gwalior is also known for not participating in the 1857 rebellion, mainly due to non-co-operation with Rani Lakshmibai. After Kalpi or as it is known today, Jhansi, fell into the hands of the British on 24 May 1858, Lakshmibai sought shelter at Gwalior Fort. The Maharaja of Gwalior was not willing to give up his fort without a fight as he was a strong ally of the British, but after negotiations, his troops capitulated and the rebels took possession of the fort. The British attacked Gwalior in no time, the battle was fought by Lakshmibai. Indian forces numbered around 20,000, and British forces around 1,600 troops. Lakshmibai died fighting, and Gwalior was free from rebels.

The Scindia state of Gwalior became a major regional power in the second half of the 18th century and figured prominently in the three Anglo-Maratha Wars. Gwalior first fell to the British in 1780. The Scindias held significant power over many of the Rajput states, and conquered the state of Ajmer. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857, the city was briefly held by rebel forces in 1858 until they were defeated by the British. The Scindia family ruled Gwalior until India’s independence from the United Kingdom in 1947, when the Maharaja Jivajirao Scindia acceded to the Government of India. Gwalior was merged with a number of other princely states to become the new Indian state of Madhya Bharat. The ruling family is also very involved politically, with various members of the family being leaders in different political parties.

Gwalior Fort: Referred to as ‘the pearl amongst fortresses in India’ by Mughal emperor Babur, the Gwalior Fort is one of the most impenetrable fortresses in India. Situated on top of a vast rocky mountain near Gwalior, this imposing structure dominates the city. It is also the place where the second oldest reference of the number ‘zero’ has been found in the form of a carving inside a temple on the top of the fort. The construction of Gwalior Fort took place in two parts and in two different time periods and so, this architectural marvel has an intriguing history attached to it. It was passed from one dynasty to the other, multiple times.. The exact period during which the Gwalior Fort was constructed is not yet known. According to legends, this imposing fort was built in the 3rd century by a local king Suraj Sen. The king had recently been cured of leprosy with the help and blessings of a sage named Gwalipa, who had offered him water from a sacred pond. The grateful king then built this fort and named it after the sage. The word Gwalior is derived from the saint’s name – Gwalipa. The sage bestowed the title Pal, which means protector, upon the king; and declared that the fort would remain in his family’s possession as long as they bore this title. Interestingly enough, the fort remained with the 83 descendants of Suraj Sen Pal, but the 84th descendant named Tej Karan lost the fort. In the years that followed, the Gwalior Fort has witnessed many ups and downs. It also changed hands many times and has been held by the Tomars, Mughals, Marathas, and the British, before finally being handed over to the Scindias.

Surrounded by concrete walls of sandstone, the Gwalior Fort encloses three temples, six palaces and several water tanks, and is truly an architectural marvel. The different palaces and temples are a reflection of the architectural finery and skill that existed during those times and continues to be appreciated till date. The most beautiful palace in the fort is the Man Mandir Palace, which, with its amazingly elaborate structure, seems to hang at the edge of the striking fort. Blue ceramic tiles form the facade of this breathtakingly beautiful palace. The Teli-ka-Mandir, built in the 9th-century Dravidian style, rises to a height of over 100 feet and is famous for its blend of South Indian architecture with North Indian decorative motifs, as well as an exquisitely sculpted exterior. The Saas-Bahu temples on the eastern side of the fort are also larger than life examples of the 11th-century temple architecture.

The fort hosts a spectacular sound and light show every evening which is extremely well executed and makes you feel as if you are a part of the rich history of the fort and the love story of Raja Man Singh and his queen Mrignayani. The show takes place in the amphitheatre at the Man Mandir every day at 7:30 pm in Hindi and at 8:30 pm in English. Open from 6 am to 5:30 pm, the entrance fee to Gwalior Fort IINR 75 per person for Indians, INR 250 per person forforeigners and children below theage of 15 do not pay anything.

Man Mandir Palace: Located at the North-east end of the fort, the Man Mandir Palace was built between 1486 and 1516 by the Tomar ruler, Man Singh Tomar. The palace didn’t survive the ravages of time, however the remains of the palace still showcases the beautiful carvings and designs of that era. The palace has two open courts in between with apartments on two levels. There are underground prison cells as well, built later by Mughals. This was the place where Aurangzeb prisoned his brother Murad and poisoned him slowly to death by using opium. If you can find a local guide, he/she would be able to tell you various secrets about the place and show you various parts of the palace, which otherwise you won’t be able to see. Nearby is the Jauhar Kund where various Rajput women committed mass suicide to avoid rapes by the forces of Iltutmish who was the king of Delhi in the 13th century. The palace is also surrounded by other monuments like Jehangir Mahal, Shah Jahan Mahal and the Gujari Mahal. Man Mandir Palace is open all day of the week from 10 am to 5 pm and does not have any entry fees.

Teli Ka Mandir: Located in the Gwalior Fort, the Teli Ka Mandir temple dates back to the 9th century and is the highest building in Gwalior at 100 ft. This temple was used to process oil before the Britishers occupied the Gwalior Fort. The temple is famous for its unique architecture as the temple holds a Dravidian look, but the sculptures are typically North Indian. The temple is open every day between 10 am and 6 pm and entry fees are around INR 20 per person.

Saas Bahu Temple: Also built in the 9th century and contrary to what the name suggests, the Saas Bahu Temple does not mean Saas or Mother-in-law and Bahu or Daughter-in-law temple, but is a short form of Shastra Bahu, which is another name of Lord Vishnu. These are two temples situated adjacent to each other and are decorated with beautiful carvings and sculptures.

Suraj Kund: With the blue hills of Aravalli in the background, Surajkund is an old reservoir constructed around the 10th century by Suraj Pal of the Tomar Dynasty, who himself was a sun worshipper and therefore built a Sun Temple on the western bank of the embankment. The word Surajkund literally translates to the ‘Lake of the Sun’, and the destination is presently surrounded by the ruins of an ancient sun temple, coupled with a beautiful garden and a pool by the name of Siddha Kund. The tank is believed to have magical powers with the water from the tank acting as medicinal water that is assumed to cure chronic diseases, with the belief that Suraj Sen was cured of his leprosy after drinking the water from this tank. The sunrise and sunsets here are beautiful.Noticable thing of the Suraj kund is the sunset and sunrise.

Jai Vilas Palace: Also known as the Jai Vilas Mahal, the Jai Vilas Palace was built to welcome King Edward VII, the then Prince of Wales in 1874. Today, the palace serves as a residence for the descendants of the Scindia family and also also serves as a museum which stretchs over 35 rooms, houses the Chitrangada Raje Art Gallery and a library that comprises more than 5,000 books. The palace also has a collection of swords that date back to the times of Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb, and the original shield that belonged to Rani Laxmibai. Covering a floor area of about 75 acres, the Jai Vilas Palace, inspired by the Palace of Versailles, has an intricately designed Durbar Hall, which houses some of the world’s biggest chandeliers, gilt furnishings, and a large plush carpet, said to be one of the largest in the world. The custom-made chandeliers, ordered from Vienna, are each 40 feet high and weigh 3.5 tonnes each and are amongst the largest in the world, even today. The layout of the Jai Vilas Palace is reflective of the colonial period and was designed by Sir Michael Filose. The first floor is fashioned in the Tuscan style, while the second and third floors are inspired from the Italian-Doric and Corinthian periods respectively. All 400 rooms are furnished with Italian marble flooring, Persian carpets, ornamental accessories and rare antiquities from France, China and Italy. A unique feature of the Palace is an elongated dining table, on which a silver train with cut glass carriages is rallied around to serve delicacies, after-dinner brandy or cigars to important delegates during get-togethers. A section of the palace consisting of 35 rooms has been converted into a museum with its primary purpose to serve as a central site for research and learning of ancient Indian arts and culture. The place includes a museum shop, café and library and there is provision for specialised tours, which can be booked after 5 pm and includes high tea and/or dinner. The palace is open from 10 am to 4:45 pm between April and September and from 10 am to 4:40 pm between October and March and is closed on Wednesdays. Entry fees for Indians is INR 500, while foreigners pay INR 600. You need to pay INR 60 to take in a camera or a smartphone while a video camera will incur a charge of INR 150. Children under the age of five and physically challenged people need not pay any entry fee.

Sun Temple: The Surya Mandir or Sun Temple as the name suggests is a temple is dedicated to the Sun God and was constructed in 1988 by G.D. Birla. Built on the lines of legendary Sun Temple at Konark in Orissa, the Sun Temple blends exquisite architecture in red sandstone and pearly white marble. The outer edifice is made of red sandstone which is built in the manner of gradual slots that reach up to the peak of the facade. A splendid idol of the Sun Lord is enshrined in the temple. The temple is open every day from 6:30 am to 12 noon and then again from 1 to 6 pm. There is no entry fee.

Padavali and Bateshwa: Situated around 40 km north from the main town, Padavali is a fortress comprising many ancient temples. The temples have intricate carvings and one of the temples also have erotic carvings and hence famous as mini Khajuraho. These temples were discovered in 2005 as a result of excavation by the ASI and the archeological work is still ongoing. Most of the temples here are dedicated to Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu and are believed to built between the 8th-10th century and is built mainly using red sandstone.

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhod: Associated with Guru Har Gobind Saheb, his imprisonment in Gwalior Fort and his release along with the 52 kings who were held captive, Gurudwara Data Bandi Chhod holds immense religious importance to the adherents of the Sikh faith.

Tomb of Tansen: One of the greatest musicians of India and an eminent vocalist in the court of Emperor Akbar in the 16th century, Tansen was also among one of the nine gems of the Mughal court. Believed to be able to create magic, cause rains even though it was not the season for it and enchant animals with his music, Tansen was a student of Mohammad Ghaus who taught him Hindustani classical music. He was a proponent of Dhrupad style and he developed the Gwalior Gharana style of music. He was buried near his guru and this burial site is a beautiful piece of architecture. The annual Tansen music festival is held here every year in the month of November when prominent musicians from all over the country come and perform various classical shows. The tomb is open for visitors from 8 am to 6 pm.

Tomb of Ghaus Mohammed: The tomb of the 16th century prince-turned-sufi is located in Tansen Nagar in Gwalior. This beautiful mausoleum exhibits stunning Mughal architecture which gives the place a sense of serenity and peace.

Gopachal Parva: Famous for its 7th and 15th century rock-cut Jain mounuments dedicated to Jain Teerthankaras – Adinatha, Mahavir, Neminatha and Rishanabhanatha – whose idols can be seen in a meditative posture, Gopachal Parvat are a part of 100 monuments located in and around the city.

Chhatris of the Scindia Dynasty: Centophs built in the memory and honour of the rulers of the Scindia dynasty, the first Chhatri was constructed in the memory of Jayaji Rao Scindia in 1817. The Chhatri is famous for its architectural beauty with elegant domes and beautiful pavilions made of pink and yellow sandstone set amidst lush green lawns. The Chhatri is open from 9 am to 5 pm.

Gujari Mahal: The State Archaeological Museum also known as Gujari Mahal was built by Man Singh in the 15th century for his favorite wife Mrignayani. While Gujari Mahal is now in ruins, it is an archaeological museum today as it showcases various sculptures, statues and other remains dating back to 1st and 2nd century. Entry fees is INR 10 for Indians, INR 100 for foreigners, INR 50 to bring in a camera and INR 200 to shoot videos in the museum. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm.

Scindia Museum: Dedicated to Jivaji Rao Scindia, this is one of the most prominent museums of Madhya Pradesh. It occupies around 35 rooms of Jai Villas Palace and was established in the year 1964. The museum is famous for its collection of manuscripts, sculptures, coins, paintings and weapons and is a great place to connect with the history of Gwalior, especially the Scindia dynasty.

Sarod Ghar: Also known as Kala Vithika, the Sarod Ghar is a museum of music which has been set up in the ancestral house of the legendary Ustad Hafiz Ali Khan and is a must for any music enthusiast visiting Gwalior. This museum houses musical instruments which were used by legendary Indian musicians of the past and also exhibits a great collection of documents and photographs with the aim of promoting Indian classical culture and music. Open from 10 am to 6 pm every day except Sunday, the entry fee for Indians INR 20 and INR 100 for foreigners.

Gwalior Zoo: Established by Madhao Rao Scindia in 1922, the Gandhi zoo as it is also known, is actually a section of a larger garden known as Phool Bagh and houses various rare species of animals. Golden peasants, sambhars, bison, hyena, spotted deer, black bucks and a white tiger forms the variety of wild animals that can be found here. Several smaller populations of crocodiles, snakes, monkeys, and birds have also made the zoo their home. Due to the rare species of wild animals here, the 8 hectares of land that constitutes the zoo has been declared to be a protected site, maintained by the Municipal Corporation of Gwalior as part of its inheritance. The Phool Bagh was inaugurated by the Prince of Wales almost a hundred years ago, and it continues to be well-maintained and conserved even today and also houses a prayer hall, gurudwara, mosque as well as a theosophical lodge. Closed on Fridays, the Zoo is open from10:30 am to 5 pm on other days. Adults pay INR 20 while children pay INR 5 to enter the zoo.

Kuno-Palpur Wildlife Sanctuary: Located about 150 km south of Gwalior, the Kuno-Palpur Wildlife Sanctuary is a hidden gem hiding amidst Vindhyan Hills. This wildlife sanctuary is a well kept secret and a safe haven for a large number of flora and fauna. The tranquil wilderness and serene rivers makes this place look magical. The dense lush green trees hide many treasures amidst them and this wildlife sanctuary is an offbeat destination not visited many and hence is quite peaceful. A few hours spent with trees, flowers, animals and birds will make you appreciate mother nature and you would want to stay here forever. You can either explore the dense forest using your own vehicle, the condition being it should not be older than 5 years or tske the jungle safari organised by the sanctuary. The jungle safari takes place twice a day, once in the morning from 6 to 9:30 am and the then in the evening between 4 to 6 pm.

After travelling about 480 km south of Gwalior, we get to Jabalpur and Bhedaghat

An ancient city located on the shores of river Narmada, Jabalpur is today an industrial city which is gaining popularity as a tourist destination because of its splendid ghats, the 98-foot high Dhuandhar waterfall, marble art, and historical and cultural structures. The Bhedaghat-Marble Rocks and Dhuandhar Falls are the most prominent tourist attractions in Jabalpur. Apart from this, the 17th-century Madan Mahal Fort situated near Narmada river and the famous Chausath Yogini Temple located near Roopnath are must-visits. Besides them, Balancing Rock is another site which is must-see for tourists in Jabalpur. A bustling city with modern amenities, it is home to varied working-class people and some British architecture along with beautiful natural landscapes. Kanha National Park and Bandhavgarh National Park are also nearby making Jabalpur a central location to visit these wildlife locations.

Bhedeghat is known for the Duandar Falls, a huge cascade of water that falls from a height of 98 feet. Boating in Bhedaghat especially during the moonlit night is an unforgettable experience. The boatmen of these place are storytellers that will tell you about the place in the form of interesting stories. Also regarded as the Marble Rocks of Bhedaghat, this small town has earned a reputation for the massive 100 ft rocks on either side of the Narmada. Bhedaghat lies less than 25 km east of Jabalpur and about 285 km east of Bhopal. Other notable attractions here include the 64 Yogini Temple and ‘Bandar Kudini’, a spot where two cliffs are so close to each other that monkeys hop over from one side to another.

Our next destination is the town of Panna, about 220 km north of Jabalpur

A former Gond settlement, Panna is a small city in the heart of the country, which boasts of being the only city with diamond reserves. Panna is also most notably known for the Panna National Park which is a world heritage site and a significant initiative towards wildlife conservation in India. Panna is also famous for the temple of Padmavatipuri Dham, which is a haven for devotees or the numerous intriguing stories of the Bundela rajas. Another reason that Panna is well-known is for the legend of the peripatetic sage Mahamati Prannath and his disciples, who on reaching Panna realized the message of the awakening of one’s soul. Panna has a large reserve of diamond deposits along the Vindhya mountain range. Despite not having very large diamonds, the Panna diamonds are extremely popular and are auctioned off every year in the month of January. They are classified into 4 categories – the clear Motichul, the orange tainted Manik, the green-tinted Panna and the sepia coloured Bunsput. The National Mineral Development Corporation manages the diamond mines in Panna.

260 km west of Jabalpur lies the hill station of Panchmarhi.

The only hill station and the highest point in the state, Pachmarhi is also often known as “Satpura ki Rani” or the “Queen of the Satpura Range”. Situated at an altitude of 1,067 metres, the picturesque town is a part of UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, home to leopards and bison. Five sandstone cut caves on the hilltop are believed to be the spot where Pandavas stayed in Pachmarhi during their exile, making it a popular spot among religious tourists. Being at an elevated height and surrounded by bewitching forests of the Satpuras with the streams and waterfalls, Pachmarhi is a perfect weekend getaway from the nearby cities of Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra. Since the town was discovered and developed in modern times by Captain James Forsyth of the British Army, it houses charming churches built in colonial style architecture.

Let’s go back to Jabalpur and travel east this time to Amarkantak which is about 225 km from Jabalpur.

Also known as “Teerthraj” or the king of pilgrimages, Amarkantak is located amidst the Vindhya and Satpura mountain ranges at an altitude of 1065 meters with some of the most exquisite temples that one will ever see. The Narmada river, one of India’s holiest rivers, originates from Amarkantak and apart from being the birthplace for the river Narmada, Amarkantak also serves as the confluence point for the rivers Narmada, Sone and Johila. The dense forests of Amarkantak have plants rich in medicinal properties, making it significant from the ecological point of view. It is believed that the mystic poet, Sant Kabir, meditated here on Kabir Chabutra. Amarkantak is known for its rich cultural heritage.

Less than 200 km from Amarkantak is the Bandhavgarh National Park.

Formerly a hunting ground for the Maharajas of Rewa, the Bandhavgarh National Park is world-renowned as a tiger reserve and it is known to have the highest density of Bengal tigers in the world. The frequent sightings of royal tigers make this national park a must-visit for all wildlife enthusiasts. In 2012, around 44-49 tigers were living in the park. There are more than 22 species of mammals and 250 species of avifauna. The park got its name from the Bandhavgarh fort situated at the height of 800 m high cliffs nearby. The fort is in ruins now, but an hour trek to the fort is worth it as it provides ample views of the surroundings. The jeep safaris are amongst the most popular activities taken by visitors. The best time to visit the park is between October to May. Unlike other national parks, there are three types of safaris offered by the authorities – jeep, canter and elephant. Jeep and canter safaris are more popular among the tourists because it is easily available and cheaper than the elephant safari.

Another 200 km south of Bandhavgarh National Park is the Kanha National Park

The Kanha National Park is the largest National Park in central India and has been ranked as one of the best parks in Asia. Among the 22 species of large mammals, the royal Bengal tigers are one of the major attractions. One of the best tiger reserves in India, the present-day area stretches over the 940-kilometre square which is divided into two sanctuaries: Hallon and Banjar. The park was established in the year 1955 and has since actively contributed to the preservation of many endangered species. The National Park was taken under the Project Tiger Reserve in 1974. Abundant in flora and fauna, the Kanha National Park houses one of the rarest species of deer- the Barasingha. It is known for the unique Barasingha conversation to save the species that were once on the verge of extinction. One of the most scenic wildlife reserves in Asia today, this National Park came to be known the world over through Rudyard Kipling’s book- The Jungle Book. The park is famous for its wildlife safaris and attracts tourists from all over the world. Other important animals in this park are leopards, wild dogs, wild cats, foxes, sloth bears, hyenas, langurs, wild boars and jackals. Reptiles including pythons, cobras, krait and other varieties of snakes are also found in this National Park. The Jeep Safari is the best way to explore Kanha. Since the costs are typically per jeep, its advisable to share your jeep in case seats are available. The safaris are allowed in two slots: morning from 6 to 11 am and afternoon from 3 to 6 pm. The morning slot typically has more chances of spotting tigers with costs around INR 1000-2000 for a jeep. The evening safaris are slightly cheaper than the morning ones. You can book a 4 seater safari from your resort and they will also pack breakfast for you in the morning slot. The elephant safaris could be very exciting and are typically available in the morning slot costing around INR 300-600 per head.

The Pench National Park is situated 200 km east of the Kanha Tiger Reserve.

With the majestic Pench river flowing through the greens and a variety of wildlife to be spotted in the rocky terrains, the Pench National Park served as an inspiration for the famous novel ‘The Jungle Book’. One can enjoy many different experiences along with the wildlife safari on the boat rides, such as catching a glimpse of the tribal life and viewing some famous local dams and temples along the way. The Pench National Park is open to visitors from 1st October to 30th June each year. It remains closed during the monsoon season. Generally, the months of November to February is considered to be the best time to visit the park. The entry fee to the park is INR 15 for Indians and INR 150 for foreigners. The timings are from 6 am to 11 am in the mornings, and then from 3 to 6 pm. Light vehicles and 15 seater buses are allowed on the premises. An open jeep Jungle Safari is available for both day and night. There is also the option of taking a beautiful boat ride or boat safari to explore Pench and the surrounding areas, across a stretch of 17 km.

I have only managed to scratch the surface of what this amazingly rich and diverse state has to offer. I am more then tempted to visit as soon as I can. What about you?

Travel Bucket List: India – Madhya Pradesh Part 5

Let’s now go about 215 km north of the capital city of Bhopal to the town of Chanderi, another place associated with a saree, found in every Indian woman’s wardrobe.

A town of historical importance, Chanderi is surrounded by hills southwest of the Betwa River as well as lakes and forests and has several monuments of the Bundela Rajputs and the Malwa sultans. It is famous for ancient Jain Temples.

Located strategically on the borders of Malwa and Bundelkhand, Chanderi’s history goes back to the 11th century, when it was dominated by the trade routes of Central India and was proximate to the arterial route to the ancient ports of Gujarat as well as to Malwa, Mewar, Central India and the Deccan. Consequently, Chanderi became an important military outpost. The town also finds mention in Mahabharata. Shishupal was the king of Chanderi during the Mahabharata period. Chanderi is mentioned by the Persian scholar Alberuni in 1030. Ghiyas ud din Balban captured the city in 1251 for Nasiruddin Mahmud, Sultan of Delhi. Sultan Mahmud I Khilji of Malwa captured the city in 1438 after a siege of several months. In 1520 Rana Sanga of Mewar captured the city, and gave it to Medini Rai, a rebellious minister of Sultan Mahmud II of Malwa. In the Battle of Chanderi, the Mughal Emperor Babur captured the city from Medini Rai and witnessed the macabre Rajput rite of jauhar, in which, faced with certain defeat and in an attempt to escape dishonor in the hands of the enemy, women with children in their arms jumped in a fire pit to commit suicide, which was made for this specific purpose, against the background of vedic hymns recited by the priests. Jauhar was performed during the night and in the morning the men would rub the ashes of their dead women folk on their forehead, don a saffron garment known as kesariya, chew tulsi leaves, symbolizing their awareness about impending death and resolve to fight and die with honour. In 1540 it was captured by Sher Shah Suri, and added to the governorship of Shujaat Khan. The Mughal Emperor Akbar made the city a sarkar in the subah of Malwa. According to Ain-e-Akbari, the autobiography of Akbar, Chanderi had 14000 stone houses and boasted of 384 markets, 360 spacious caravan sarais or resting place and 12,000 mosques.

The Bundela Rajputs captured the city in 1586, and it was held by Ram Sab, a son of Raja Madhukar of Orchha. In 1680 Devi Singh Bundela was made governor of the city, and Chanderi remained in the hands of his family until it was annexed in 1811 by Jean Baptiste Filose for the Maratha ruler Daulat Rao Sindhia of Gwalior. The city was transferred to the British in 1844. The British lost control of the city during the Revolt of 1857, and the city was recaptured by Hugh Rose on 14 March 1858. The city was transferred back to the Scindias of Gwalior in 1861, and became part of Gwalior state. After India’s independence, Gwalior became part of the new state of Madhya Bharat, which was merged into Madhya Pradesh on 1 November 1956. Chanderi has been a major centre of Jain culture and  was a major centre of the Parwar Jain community.

Chanderi Fort: Standing proudly at a eight of 71 feet above the town on a hill, Chanderi Fort is fortified by a 5 km long wall. Built by King Kirti Pal in the 11th century, the fort has witnessed several attacks and has been re-built a number of times. The fort has three gates as entrances with the uppermost gate known as Hawa Paur and the lowermost gate is known as Khooni Darwaza. The southwest side of the fort has an interesting gateway called the Katti-Ghatti. There are several attractions situated inside the Chanderi fort, like the Khilji Mosque, Naukhanda palace, tomb of Hazrat Abdul Rahman, etc. A rest house situated on the northern ridge of the fort is the main attraction of the monument as it presents a wonderful view of the town below.

Badal Mahal Darwaza: A singular structure of a gate, the Badal Mahal Darwaza doesn’t lead to any palace or mahal. This historic gate enjoys a central location in Chanderi, near the Jama Masjid and was constructed by Sultan Mehmood Shah Khilji, the King of Malwa, in the 15th century to mark a significant victory. The Badal Mahal Darwaza has a height of 100 ft and features elaborate carvings and impressive motifs. The top of the gate features an arched design and two tall minarets stand guard on both sides. The specialty of the structural design is that a gap exists above the arched top of the gate, which is followed by another arch, which brings up the end of the gate. This gate served the purpose of welcoming and honouring the state guests and visiting kings in a grand manner.

Koshak Mahal: An impressive palace at a distance of 4 km from Chanderi, the Koshak Mahal palace was built by the Sultan of Malwa, Mehmood Shah Khilji, in 1445 to mark the victory of Mehmood Shah in the battle at Kalpi over Sultan Mehmood Sharki. Koshak Mahal is a square structure with large impressive arched doorways and consists of four mansions of similar size and equally spaced from one another with a network of passages and overhead covered corridors connect them. The superstructure of the palace does not exist today, but the beauty of the palace can still be felt in the remaining portion standing there. Koshak Mahal was constructed from white local sandstone with all four mansions featuring an identical style of architecture and design. The palace today stands with three complete storeys and an incomplete fourth storey.

Raja Mahal: A seven storied palace in Andar Shehar, Raja Mahal is one of the few remaining palaces that still grace the landscape of Chanderi. Chanderi once had around 260 palaces, of which only 43 have managed to exist. The palace features architectural style of the 15th century and is a beautiful structure constructed from grey and white sandstones and has elaborate carvings to display. The palace is truly a magnificent structure that has large courtyards, elegant stairways, beautifully carved pillars and open pavilions on the terrace. The palace has an underground passage connecting it to another palace standing nearby. This smaller palace is known as the Rani Mahal, which is quite different in architecture and style to the Raja Mahal. These two palaces together are known as the Rajmahal.

Rani Mahal: The smaller of the two palaces, Rani Mahal is a four storied structure that is connected to the Raja Mahal through a secret passage. The Rani Mahal displays the Bundela style of architecture with the exact period of construction of the palace not known though it is believed to be prior to the 16th century. The palace is an enclosed structure with a large courtyard surrounding it with spacious corridors beautiful pillars. The terrace was built with pavilions that were used as watch towers.

Shahzadi ka Rouza: An impressive monument built on a 12 ft high podium, the Shahzadi ka Rouza is situated near the Parmeshwar Pond. The outside wall features a tall first storey and a short second storey. The eaves at both these levels are held by uniquely designed serpentine brackets. The inside of the structure comprises of just one storey and has a single room that is square in shape. The monument originally had 5 domes, but most of them are ruined now. This structure is a tomb built in the 15th century by the then Hakim who governed Chanderi and constructed in memory of his daughter Mehrunissa who was in love with the chief of Hakim’s army. But due to Hakim’s disapproval, the young couple died at the spot where the memorial stands today. The Hakim buried his daughter there and built the structure as her memorial.

Battisi Bavdi: The most famous and the largest step-well in Chanderi, Battisi Bavdi is believed to always have water as long as water exists in the oceans. The amazing feature of this wonderful well is that the water remains at the same level inside the well all year through. The step well is square in shape with a dimension of 60 ft by 60 ft and has a depth of around four storeys. The stairs start from the main entrance and lead to the base of the well. The end of the main steps at each storey leads to beautiful platforms or ghats that surround the well on all sides. There are 32 flight of steps in the well, which gives it its name. Battisi Bavdi was built by Sher Khan in 1485 during the rule of Sultan Ghiyasuddin Shah Khilji.

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Old Chanderi: Situated at a distance of 19 km from Chanderi city and lying on the bank of river Urvashi, Old Chanderi is also known as Buddhi Chanderi. It has a lot of historical and Vedic significance attached to it and finds a position in the epics and pages of history. The village of Old Chanderi is famous as an important centre of Jain culture, mainly the Parwar Jain community. It has several Jain temples belonging to the 9th and 10th century and is considered as a pilgrimage centre by the Jain people. The architecture of the sculptures and structures present in Old Chanderi reveal a rich style of construction that is impressive to watch.

Let’s continue by moving on to Shivpuri, located about 140 km north of Chanderi and on the way to Gwalior.

Situated at an altitude of 1,515 feet above sea level, Shivpuri is a tourist destination in the monsoon season as it has a number of waterfalls as well as many lakes and the city is known for its greenery, forests and also as the former summer capital of the ruling Scindia family of Gwalior. A leader and general of the Indian Rebellion of 1857, Tatya Tope was hanged in Shivpuri in 1859.

The first historical mention of Sipri, which is the od name of Shivpuri was of Emperor Akbar hunting elephants there in 1564. In the 16th Century, Shivpuri, like all of Gwalior, was part the Maratha Empire. The empire weakened at the end of the century, and during the Gardi-ka-wakt, or ‘period of unrest’, the Rajputs of Narwar secured the town and district. The Scindias, under Daulat Scindia, captured the town and district from the ruler of Narwar in 1804, and made the town their summer capital. The place enjoys pleasant weather for the better part of a year, but the best time to visit is between October and March.

Madhav Vilas Palace: Locally known as the “Palace”, the Madhav Vilas Palace has beautiful turrets, numerous terraces and immaculate marble floors make the palace truly resplendent even by today’s standards. The exterior of the palace has a dusty-rose colour that sets the palace apart from its surrounding. During it’s heyday, the palace was the summer palace of the Scindias. The palace is today the training centre for the Intelligence Bureau of the Government of India.

Narwar Fort: Located just east of the river Kali Sindh, the Narwar Fort is a remnant of the resplendent past of India. 43 km northwest of Shivpuri, the fort is of historical significance and was known as Nalapura till the 12th century. Raja Nala, after whom the town and fort was named, finds mention in the Epic Mahabharata in relation to Damayanti and their love saga. The Narwar Fort sits atop a hill at an elevation of 500 ft above sea level and spread over 8 sq km. The Rajput influence in the architecture of the fort is evident in the flat ceilings and the fluted columns.

Mahua Shiva Temple: A small nondescript village in Shivpuri where the temple is based, Mahua has treasures from the 6th and 7th century hidden in plain sight. Mahua village is a part of the ancient area known as Madhumati in the Ranod inscription and inscriptions suggest the importance of the area amidst Shaiva Saiddhantika believers. There are a few temples that have survived the sands of time to stand resplendently today as a stark reminder of a long lost history. The Shiva Mandapika is one of the few monuments that can be assigned to the latter half of the 7th century. The temple as it stands today may point to an incomplete construction or an incomplete restoration. The Shiva temple in Mahua is an exemplary temple from the 7th century dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple reflects the Nagara style of architecture and has carvings depicting the river Goddesses Ganga and Yamuna on either side of the doorway that leads to the sanctum sanctorum.

A tourist village with a natural spring, Bhadaiya Kund is a scenic area within the municipality of Shivpuri. spring is not very far from Shivpuri. The natural spring at Bhadaiya Kund is known to have a high mineral content and is believed to have therapeutic properties. The monsoon season is the best time to visit, when the waters are especially full and a soothing sight to city weary eyes.

Madhav National Park: Famous as hunting grounds all the way from Akbar’s reign to the British colonial rule, the Madhav National Park is spread over a total area of 354 sq km with rolling hills and flat grasslands around the lake. Akbar is rumored to have captured an entire herd of elephants for his stables from the forest. The bio-diversity here is second to none, offering glimpses into wildlife relatively unadulterated by human interference. George Castle is a beautiful retreat built by the Scindia King Jivaji Rao Scindia within the national park. The colonial architecture makes for a charming structure from the pre-independence period. The sunset views from the castle are rumoured to be stunning and is not to be missed. The Sakhya Sagar boat club gives adventurous tourists a chance to get up close to the crocodiles living in the lake. 

Karera Bird Sanctuary: Considered to be the holy grail for avid bird watchers and avian photo enthusiasts, the Karera Bird Sanctuary is a protected park with the wildlife within the park largely untouched allowing them to flourish. A visit to the sanctuary is not only an opportunity to witness birds but also numerous wild animals in their natural habitat. The sanctuary is home to many endangered species of birds and also to migratory birds. The Indian bustard is a celebrity resident of the bird sanctuary. A rapidly endangered species, the Karera Bird Sanctuary is one of the few places where birds live in their natural habitat. With over 245 recorded species of birds living in the sanctuary, it is no surprise that bird watchers come in from across the world to witness the unique avian world. The best time to visit the sanctuary when the avian tourists are in residence is between November and March.

About 110 km north of Shivpuri lies the town of Orchha, which is our next destination

A historical town located on the banks of river Betwa, Orchha is known for its grand palaces, and intricately carved temples. Famously known as the city of palaces, it is world-renowned for the classic mural paintings, frescos and Chhatris or cenotaphs that were constructed to commemorate the Bundela rulers. Orchha’s old-world charm casts a spell on tourists from all around the world. Founded in 1501 by Bundela Rajput Chief, Orchha literally means ‘a hidden place’. It was the capital of one of the most powerful dynasties to ever rule in India- the Bundelas. The major attractions in Orchha include Ram Raja Temple, the only place where Lord Ram is worshipped both as a God and a king, the Laxmi Narayan Temple which is known for its unique architecture which is a melange of a fort and a temple, and the Jahangir Mahal, built in hour of the Mughal emperor Jahangir. The medieval architecture of Orchha’s palaces and temples is a visual delight for photographers.

Our next destination is the world famous UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Khajurao group of mounuments, which lie about 175 km east of Orchha.

Located nearly 400 km east of the capital of Bhopal, the Khajuraho Group of Monuments is a group of Hindu and Jain temples in the Chhatarpur district. A UNESCO World Heritage site, the temples are famous for their nagara-style architectural symbolism and their erotic sculptures. Most Khajuraho temples were built between 950 AD and 1050 AD by the Chandela dynasty. Historical records note that the Khajuraho temple site had 85 temples by the 12th century, spread over 20 square kilometers. Of these, only about 25 temples have survived, spread over six sq kms. Of the surviving temples, the Kandariya Mahadeva Temple is decorated with a profusion of sculptures with intricate details, symbolism and expressiveness of ancient Indian art. The Khajuraho group of temples were built together but were dedicated to two religions, Hinduism and Jainism, suggesting a tradition of acceptance and respect for diverse religious views among Hindus and Jains in the region.

The Khajuraho temples were in active use through the end of the 12th century. This changed in the 13th century; after the army of Delhi Sultanate attacked and seized the Chandela kingdom. The central Indian region, where the Khajuraho temples are, was controlled by various Muslim dynasties from the 13th century through the 18th century. In this period, some temples were desecrated, followed by a long period when they were left in neglect. The remoteness and isolation of Khajuraho protected the Hindu and Jain temples from continued destruction by Muslims. Over the centuries, vegetation and forests overgrew the temples. In the 1830s, local Hindus guided a British surveyor, T.S. Burt, to the temples and they were thus rediscovered by the global audience.

The name Khajuraho, or Kharjuravahaka, is derived from ancient Sanskrit, kharjura, which means date palm and vahaka meaning “one who carries” or bearer. Local legends state that the temples had two golden date-palm trees as their gate which were missing when they were rediscovered. Hisotians also state that Kharjuravahaka also means scorpion bearer, which is another symbolic name for the deity Lord Shiva, who wears snakes and scorpion garlands in his fierce form.

An ancient local legend held that Hindu deity Shiva and other gods enjoyed visiting the dramatic hill formation in Kalinjar area and the temple complex reflects the ancient Hindu tradition of building temples where gods love to pray. The temples are clustered near water, another typical feature of Hindu temples. All temples, except one, which is the Chaturbhuja face the sunrise. The artwork symbolically highlight the four goals of life considered necessary and proper in Hinduism – dharma, kama, artha and moksha. Of the surviving temples, six are dedicated to Shiva, eight to Vishnu and his affinities, one to Ganesha, one to the Sun god and three to Jain Tirthankars. The temples have a rich display of intricately carved statues. While they are famous for their erotic sculpture, sexual themes cover less than 10% of the temple sculpture. Of all temples, the Matangeshvara temple remains an active site of worship. It is another square grid temple, with a large 8.2 feet high and 3.6 feet diameter lingam, placed on a 25 feet diameter platform. The most visited temple, the Kandariya Mahadev, has an area of about 6,500 sq ft and a shikhara or spire that rises 116 feet. The Jain temples are located on the east-southeast region of the Khajuraho monuments. The Chausath Yogini temple features 64 yogini, while Ghantai temple features bells sculptured on its pillars.

Built in the year 1130 the Dulhadev Temple enshrines a beautiful shivalingam and striking sculptures of Apsaras and other ornamented figures. The temple also has a stunning sculpture of Lord Shiva with his wife Parvati, the intricate details of the carvings adding to the charm of the overall architecture.

Built around 1025-1050 AD, the Kandariya Mahadev Temple is one of the most stunning of the Khajurao sites with its artistically engraved shrine with over 800 images of women, most of which are more than 3 feet high. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and has a shivalingam at the centre of Garba Griha. Made of a typical sandstone structure, the artisitic representation of eroticism on the walls of this temple are bound to give a new perspective on India’s cultural heritage.

The oldest and most aesthetically pleasing temples among the Western group of Temples, the Lakshman temple is named after the ruler of that time. The trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva is depicted in the horizontal beam over the entrance of the temple.

The Parsvanath Temple is the largest among the Eastern group of temples and has intricately detailed carvings on its walls. The most intriguing side of the architecture of this temple is the aesthetic blend of Hindu, muslim and Buddhist styles. The highlights of the temple are the sculptures on the northern outer walls.

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Vishwanath Temple is one among the western group of temples. It has a beautiful marble shivalinga as the main deity. An imposing image of Brahma is also housed in this temple. A massive sculpture of Nandi the Bull is also enshrined alongside the Shivalingam.

Dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi, the Hindu deity of wealth, the Lakshmi Temple houses some moderate shrines and is comparatively smaller than the other temples in Khajuraho.

Initially built as a Vishnu temple, the Devi Jagdamba temple has beautifully carved erotic figures. The Garba Griha houses a stunning sculpture of the Goddess of the Universe. The temple also houses a beautiful image of Goddess Parvati, with the image of Mithuna.

The Adinath Temple is a Jain temple dedicated to the Jain Tirthankars. With exquisite sculpted figures, including yakshis this is one of the most beautiful jain temples in Madhya Pradesh.

The Chaturbhuj Temple is situated in the Jatakari village of Khajuraho and is also known as Jatakari Temple. Enshrined by Lord Vishnu, the temple is free of any erotic carvings or sculptures and hence is considered a unique temple in the region. Rectangular in shape, the shrine built on a raised platform.

The Varaha Temple is built in the Western Group of Temple Complex in Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh and is enshrine by a massive idol of Varaha – the incarnation of Lord Vishnu in the form of a boar. Made in sandstone, the sculpture has numerous carvings all over its body and depict Goddess Saraswati at one certain place on the body.

Built among the Western Group of Temple Complex, the Matangeshwar Temple is a rather plainly designed temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Made of sandstone, the temple houses a large shivalinga which has Nagari and Persian inscriptions carved on it and a popular site among Shiva devotees.

The Vamana Temple is dedicated to Vamana, the fifth incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The exterior walls of the shrine have erotic carvings of nymphs and celestial bodies and different women in several different postures.

The Chitragupta Temple’s main deity is the Sun God, Surya and dates back to the 11th century. The presiding deity is shown as riding a chariot with seven horses. The exterior walls of the shrine have carvings of several gods and erotic couples.

The Shantinatha Temple is a Jain temple presided by the Lord Shantinatha; however, it has idols of other Jain tirthankaras as well, including a colossal statue of Adinatha. The temple has been renovated but still bears inscriptions from the bygone era.

The oldest temple in the complex, the Chausath Yogini Temple is a late 9th century Devi temple which though now is in ruins, but the shrine cells and other remnants remain at the site. There are no sculptures found here. A monument of national importance, remnants of this temple have been found in other places around the region. The Khajuraho museum hosts three ancient statues of goddesses Brahmani, Maheshvari, and Hingalaja that were found in this temple. It is believed that this temple was the home-ground for a cult of Yoginis.

State Museum of Tribal and Folk Art is housed within the Chandela Cultural Complex and is a well maintained tiny repository of old scriptures of tribal art and culture in the form of masks, terracotta sculptures, folk- paintings, bamboo articles and other collectibles. The museum also has a beautiful garden surrounding it. The museum is closed on Mondays and open from 12 noon to 8 pm on other days. Entry fee are INR 10 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners.

The Archaeological Museum is located near the Western Group of Temples and was originally known as the Jardine Museum. Housing over 2000 items, the museum has relics from the 10th and 12th century temples of Hinduism and Jainism. The museum is closed on Fridays and open from 8 am to 5 pm on other days. Entry fee are INR 10 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners.

Also known as Maharaja Chhatrasal Museum, the Dhubela Museum is located in Dhubela, 62 kms from Khajuraho. Boasting of a serene setting on the banks of Dhubela lake and housed in the premises of Maharaja Chhatrasal Palace, the museum displays an extensive collection of sculptures, arms, armoury, miniature paintings etc., spread over 8 galleries. The museum is closed on Mondays and open from 10 am to 5 pm on other days. Entry fee are INR 10 for Indians and INR 100 for foreigners. Cameras taken inside will need a entry fee of INR 50. Located in the Jain Temples Complex, Jain Museum is a circular building housing huge statues and sculptures of Jain tirthankaras and yakshis. The entrance gate is flanked by the mythical creatures – Makara Torana. Closed on Sundays, the museum is open from 8 am to 5 pm and entry fees for Indians is INR 10 and foreigners need to pay INR 250.

Our next destination lies about 310 km northwest of Khajurao which is the city of Gwalior.