Travel Bucket List – India: Gujarat Part 3

Posted on May 4, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Central Gujarat is the Gujarati heartland. All the districts in this area share a common culture with no variations in dialect. Important cities in this area include Gujarat’s commercial capital of Ahmedabad, Vadodara, it’s milk capital of Anand, Chhota Udaipur, Dahod, Kheda, Mahisagar, Panchmahal, Nadiad and Mehsana. Let’s start with Ahmedabad, the biggest city in Gujarat.

Ahmedabad
The largest city and former capital of the state, Ahmedabad was previously part of the Bombay Presidency. This city is the fifth most populous city in India and the encompassing urban agglomeration is the seventh-most populous in India. Ahmedabad is located on the banks of the Sabarmati River, 23 km from the state capital Gandhinagar, which is its twin city, but Gandhinagar does not fall under central Gujarat, instead it is counted as a north Gujarat city. Ahmedabad is the second-largest producer of cotton in India, and its stock exchange is the country’s second oldest.

The area around Ahmedabad has been inhabited since the 11th century, when it was known as Ashaval. Ahmedabad is named after the grandson of Muzzafar Shah I, Sultan Ahmed Shah who founded the Muzzaffarid dynasty in early 15th century. Ahmed Shah I laid the foundation of the city on 26 February 1411 and chose it as the new capital on 4 March 1411. During the period of Maratha Empire governance, the city became the centre of a conflict between the Peshwa of Poona and the Gaekwad of Baroda but the the British East India Company took over the city in 1818 during the Third Anglo-Maratha War. A military cantonment was established in 1824 and a municipal government in 1858 and this city which became one of the most important cities in the Gujarat region became a part of the Bombay Presidency. In 1864, a railway link between Ahmedabad and Bombay was established by the Bombay, Baroda, and Central India Railway or BB&CI, enabling traffic and trade between northern and southern India via the city. Over time, the city established itself as the home of a developing textile industry, which earned it the nickname “Manchester of the East”.

The Indian independence movement developed roots in the city when Mahatma Gandhi established two ashrams – the Kochrab Ashram near Paldi in 1915 and the Satyagraha Ashram which is now called the Sabarmati Ashram on the banks of the Sabarmati in 1917 – which would become centres of nationalist activities. In 1930, Gandhi initiated the Salt Satyagraha from Ahmedabad by embarking from his ashram on the Dandi Salt March. Following independence and the partition of India in 1947, the city was scarred by the intense communal violence that broke out between Hindus and Muslims. In 1947, Ahmedabad was the focus for settlement by Hindu migrants from Pakistan, who expanded the city’s population and transformed its demographics and economy.

Early in Ahmedabad’s history, under Ahmed Shah, builders fused Hindu craftsmanship with Persian architecture which gave rise to the Indo-Saracenic style seen in many of the heritage structures in the city.

Ahmedabad is synonymous with the Father of the Nation, Mahatma Gandhi and no visit to Ahmedabad can be complete without a visit to Sabarmati Ashram. Once the residence of Gandhiji and his wife Kasturba, this ashram is located on a tranquil and serene stretch of Sabarmati river. It is commonly believed that Mahatma Gandhi chose this site for it is located between a prison and a cemetery and a Satyagrahi is likely to end up in one of these. In gratitude of the substantial impact Dandi march had on the Indian independence movement, the Indian government has recognised the Sabarmati Ashram as a national monument. While visiting the Ashram, don’t forget to stop by the Upasana Mandir, Magan Niwas, Hriday Kunj, Udyog Mandir and Nandini. The Ashram Museum, Gandhi Smarak Sangrahalaya, includes an art gallery, a library, and the archives, tells you a lot about Gandhi, his family, his ways, revolutionary movements as well as some of Gandhi’s personal letters and photographs which are on display. The ashram is open daily from 8:30 am to 6:30 pm and entry is free.

Ahmedabad is also well known for its temples and mosques. The Swaminarayan temple is a shrine dedicated to Narayan Dev built in 1822 on the instructions of Swaminarayan, who was the founder of the Swaminarayan sect of Hinduism. Embellished with vivid colours and intricate carvings, the temple is a marvellous example of the architecture of the nineteenth century. Beautifully carved out of Burma teak wood, the intricate detailing in the carvings of this temple makes it an engineering masterpiece. The temple is open from 6 am to 7 pm, seven days of the week and entry is free.

Established in 1848, the Hutheesing Jain Temple is is dedicated to Dharmanath, the 15th Tirthankara of Jains, and is among the finest Jain temples in Gujarat. This two-storied elegant white marble structure is home to 11 deity sculptures. The courtyard, is bordered by a row of pergolas that has 52 shrines where each shrine exhibits remarkable designs and intricate carvings. The temple was christened after Sri Hathee Singh and it was made in the same architectural patterns of the Dilwara Jain Temples of Rajasthan.

Popularly known as Sidi Saiyyed Ni Jaali, the Sidi Saiyyed Mosque was built in the year 1573 and is among the last few mosques that were built under the Gujarat Sultanate and was completed in the last year of their reign before the Mughals invaded Gujarat and defeated them. The construction of this fantastic mosque is credited to Sidi Saiyyed in the retinue of Bilal Jhajar Khan, the general in the army of the last Sultan, Shams-Ud-Din Muzaffar Shah III, of the Gujarat Sultanate. The mosque is especially famous for its beautiful ten stone latticework windows, also known as Jalis, on the side and rear arches. The stone slabs are carved in the designs of intertwined trees and foliage with a palm motif. The mosque is now under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The mosque is open from 7 am to 6 pm and there is no entry fee.

The Jama Masjid in Ahmedabad is one of the largest mosques in India built in around 1424. A beautiful blend of Hindu and Muslim architecture styles, it was constructed with the purpose of serving as a private shrine to the Sultans and took about 13 years to finish. The mosque was built out of stones and rubble rescued from demolished Hindu and Jain temples. The Jama Masjid also houses the tombs of Ahmed Shah I, his son and his grandson followed by the graves of the queens of the king. The facade of Jama Masjid has a huge archway that welcomes you into the main complex. Made out of intricate stonework, the mosque opens into a splendid courtyard with an abulution pool right in the centre. The most striking feature of the construction is its unique meshwork in the main prayer hall, which allows enough illumination into the room without any direct sunlight. The mosque is open all days of the week between 6 am to 8 am and entry is free. Do note that during times of prayers, the doors are closed to visitors.

The Sarkhej Roza is a tomb and mosque complex is an attractive architectural complex which depicts the Islamic style during the Mughal period. This complex is also known as Ahmedabad’s Acropolis as the famous architect Le Corbusier’s compared this mosque’s design to the Acropolis of Athens. Don’t miss the Persian designs of the toms, Ganj Baksh’s Tomb and Sarkhej Lake when you are there. The tomb is open from 9 am to 6 pm with entry being free.

Also known as the Arak Fort, the 44 acre-Bhadra fort comprises of intricate carvings, latticework and frescos alongside arches and inscriptions at the entrance. Built in 1411 by Ahmed Shah I, the walls are said to have been established to protect the Gujarat Sultanate. The fort’s name is said to have come from the Bhadrakali temple installed by the Marathas. This red stone-fort located along the Sabarmati river was revamped by the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation and the Archaeological Survey of India in 2014. The fort comprises of a majestic palace, a lush green courtyard, and the Bhadrakali temple. Popular belief says that Goddess Lakshmi once stepped into the Bhadra Fort and blessed the Sultan that his city was to always remain wealthy and affluent. Even today it is believed that there are statshes of hidden wealth buried deep within the fort. Don’t miss the Royal Square, the Azam Khan Sarai, Clock Tower, Nagina Baugh, Maidan-e-Shah and the gardens within the fort. The fort is open from 9 am to 5 pm, all days of the week and entry to the fort is free.

Located at the eastern end of the Bhadra Fort, the Teen Darwaza holds historical significance as it used to bracket the Maidan Shahi palace. The gateway essentially opened into the fort’s Royal Square which organised games, processions and events. Besides being the city’s longest and oldest gateway, the Teen Darwaza is also featured on the emblem of the Ahmedabad Municipal Corporation. An architectural marvel in every sense, the Teen Darwaza is made of stunning arched gates and was established in 141 A.D. by the founder of Ahmedabad city Sultan Ahmed Shah. The arch is open 24 hours of the day, seven days of the week and you don’t have to pay anything to view this magnificent structure.

Kankaria Lake is the second largest lake in Ahmedabad and was formerly known as Hauz-e-Qutub. Bulit in the 15th century, this pristine lakefront is popular among locals for an evening stroll because of the multi-coloured lights glowing all around its periphery. The lake also has a balloon safari, zoo, toy trains and an amusement park. The Kankaria carnival is usually celebrated as a week-long festival during the last week of December and is filled with many cultural, art and social activities. The lake is open from 9 am to 10 pm every day and you need to pay INR 10 for an adult and INR 5 for a child to enter the premises.

A lush green and well maintained garden, the Law Garden is frequented by locals and tourists alike. The garden is famous for its night market where one can find intricate traditional work and is a great place to buy traditional Gujarati apparel, accessories, ornaments and handicraft with traditional handiwork on them. This place is also well known for its street food and foodies will be spoilt for choice here.

The Sabarmati Riverfront is a waterfront developed on the banks of river Sabarmati. It was initiated with the objective for sustainable development and environmental improvement, but this riverfront has now become a major tourist attraction owing to its lush green promenades, beautiful parks and plazas and an all-around soothing ambience.

Also known as the Bai Harir Stepwell, the Dada Harir Vav is among the two famous stepwells in this region. The stepwell was built in 1485 by Dhai Harir, a household lady of Mahmud Begada according to the Persian inscription in the stepwell who was the superintendent of the royal harem. This octagonal stepwell designed in sandstone is a remanence of the Solanki style of architecture with intricate carvings and the stunning architecture of a bygone era. The stepwell has seven levels and is a great source of water conservation. Located right behind the grave of Dhai Harir, this unique construction showcases three stairways to the bottom of the well from the first storey. The whole structure of the Dada Harir Wav is a masterpiece of Gujarati design and intricate artistry in stone. The well bears two inscriptions, one in Sanskrit on the south, and one in Arabic on the north wall, of the first gallery. The Vav is open from 9 am to 5 pm and is free to visitors.

The Jhulta Minar or shaking minarets are among one of the most intriguing architectural wonders you can see. Originally part of the Sidi Bashir Mosque, only the central gateway and two minarets survive. The minarets are the tallest in Ahmedabad and though much damaged, especially near the foot, the stairs inside the minarets may still be used. The minarets are three stories tall with carved balconies. A gentle shaking of either minaret results in the other minaret vibrating after a few seconds, though the connecting passage between them remains free of vibration. The mechanism of this is not known, although the layered construction is thought to be a factor. The minarets are also able to withstand fast-moving trains passing close by. The minar is open from 5:30 am to 9 pm, with no entry fee, though entry was prohibited following an 1981 incident at the Qutub Minar in Delhi, when a stampede resulted in the deaths of many children. There is also damage to the upper sections.

Abbreviated as L.D Museum, the Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum, established in 1984 has Indian sculptures, bronzes, manuscripts, paintings, drawings, miniature paintings, woodwork, beadwork and ancient and contemporary coins. An outcome of the visions of Muni Punyavijayaji, an erudite monk scholar and Sheth Kasturbhai Lalbhai, the well-known industrialist of Ahmedabad, the museum is located on the premises of the L.D. Institute of Indology. All the major regional styles of the sub-continent find their place on the ground floor in Madhuri D. Desai Gallery. The museum has finest paintings in Gujarati Jaina Style, some of which are older than Mughal Period. The paintings find their place on the 1st floor of the Museum Building. In its eastern wing of the Muni Punyavijayaji Gallery, there is a section displaying the Leelavati Lalbhai Woodwork Collection. The museum houses 76,000 handwritten Jain Manuscripts, including 500 illustrated versions and 45,000 printed books, making it the largest collection of Jain scripts. The old books are written in languages such as Sanskrit, Pali, Old Gujarati, Apabhramsa, Hindi and Rajasthani. The museum is open on all days, except on Mondays and public holidays, from 10:30 am. to 5:30 pm. Entry is free in the museum.

The Calico Museum of Textile managed by the Sarabhai Foundation, is one of the oldest textile museums in the country and comprises exclusive collections of various textiles, fabrics and artefacts; rare collections of antique textiles; spectacular samples of Kashmir shawls; tie and dye fabrics; and relics from various parts of the country that makes it one of the best places for those interested in the history of fabrics and clothing. Don’t miss the exlusive collections of bronze, pichwai paintings, Jain art items, Indian miniature paintings, tribal art and handicrafts which are displayed in the museum. The museum is open from 10 am to 12:30 pm and then again from 2:45 pm to 4:30 pm every day of the week except Wednesdays with free entry into the museum.

Designed by the famous Le Corbusier, Sanskar Kendra is a city museum depicting history, art, culture and the architecture of Ahmedabad. A Patang or Kite Museum is also located next door, which includes a collection of kites, photographs, and other artifacts. Visiting this museum will give you a glimpse of the the living heritage of the city and its glorious past. Make sure you check out the photographs related to history of city, art, photography, Mahatma Gandhi, the Indian independence struggle and the various religious communities of Ahmedabad. The museum also houses the tallest incense stick of the world at 4.5 m long. Entry is free to this museum which is open on all days of the week from 10 am to 6 pm.

The Vechaar Utensils Museum is a unique and exclusive showcase depicting an centuries old antique collection of utensils and pots that have been picked from all over the country. Built in 1981, this one of a kind museum has a collection of over 4,500 exhibits and aims at preserving the evolution of Indian utensils over time. You need to pay INR 30 per adult and INR 10 for children aged 3 to 11 yearsto access the exhibits which remain open from 3 to 10:30 pm on all days except Mondays. Please note that foreigners pay more which is INR 100 per person and if you want to carry your camera or mobile phone inside, you need to pay an extra INR 100. If you plan on making videos inside the museum, it will cost you an extra INR 500 per video camera.

Lothal
One of the southernmost cities of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization, Lothal was located in the Bhal region in present day Gujarat and first inhabited from 3700 BC. Discovered in 1954, Lothal was excavated by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), and was said to have had the world’s earliest known dock, which connected the city to an ancient course of the Sabarmati river on the trade route between Harappan cities in Sindh and the peninsula of Saurashtra when the surrounding Kutch desert of today was a part of the Arabian Sea. Lothal was a vital and thriving trade centre in ancient times, with its trade of beads, gems and valuable ornaments reaching the far corners of West Asia and Africa. The techniques and tools they pioneered for bead-making and in metallurgy have stood the test of time for over 4,000 years.

Lothal, which means “Mount of the Dead” is located near the village of Saragwala about 85 km southwest of of Ahmedabad on the banks of the ancient mythical river Saraswati which has now dried up or gone underground as it is commonly understood, the nearest cities to Lothal are Dholka and Bagodara. Adjacent to the excavated areas stands the Archaeological Museum, where some of the most prominent collections of Indus-era antiquities in India are displayed. This site has been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Vadodara
Known as Baroda during the British times, Vadodara is known as a Sanskari Nagari or traditional city of India. The city used to be called Chandanavati after its ruler Raja Chandan of the Dodiya of Rajputs. The capital was also known as Virakshetra or Viravati or the Land of Warriors. Later, it was known as Vadpatraka or Vadodara, which according to tradition is a corrupt form of the Sanskrit word vatodar meaning in the belly of the Banyan tree. In 1974, the official name of the city was changed to Vadodara.

The Navratri festival celebrated in Vadodara in the months of October/November are famous throughout India. The festival is celebrated with a lot of exuberance in this city and one should not leave the city without shaking a leg in its traditional dance forms of Garba and Dandiya. If you plan on visiting this city during this time, make sure you are there during Navratri and can check out the amazing and huge dance floors in the city. The picture above is the largest garba stadium and the small images inside the photo are the hundreds of thousands of people all dancing together.

The Laxmi Vilas Palace is the one thing you must visit while in Vadodara, if not anything else. Built in the Indo-Saracenic school of architecture, the Laxmi Vilas Palace is almost four times the size of Buckingham Palace and was the private residence of Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III. The royal family of the Gaekwads still reside today in private parts of the palace. Constructed in in 1890 and taking nearly twelve years to complete, the palace complex sprawls over an area of about 700 acres. It is built in the Indo-Saracenic style which is a hybrid of the Hindu, Gothic and Mughal architectural forms with the presence of domes, minarets and arches. The palace incorporates several important buildings within, including the Moti Baug Palace, the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum building and the LVP Banquets & Conventions building.

The Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum building was mainly constructed as a school for the Maharaja’s children. Today, it houses an extraordinary collection of sculptures and paintings by Raja Ravi Verma and various other artefacts gathered from all around the world, including several portaits of the royal family. The oriental gallery present inside the museum comprises of Chinese as well as Japanese sculptures. An excellent audio tour with free drink and snack are included in the ticket price.

The Makarpura Palace was initially constructed as a summer palace for the royal family of the Gaekwads. Built in 1870 and given an Italian touch in terms of architecture, it was renovated years after it was built because the palace was left unused as the royal family preferred spending most of their summers in the relatively cooler Nilgiris in Tamil Nadu. It now serves as a training school called No.17 Tetra School used by the Indian Air Force.

Believed to be used to collect tolls from merchants and traders, the Mandvi Gate is located at the exact centre of the old walled city. A pavilion or Mandapa, standing at the crossing of of the two cardinal streets of the old city, the structure is actually part of a larger building scheme, the “Killa-e-Daulatabad”. The fort is supposed to have been designed and constructed by Rumin Khan and based on the design of a Chopat or Ludo game. The square was cut into four more squares by two major streets and aligned with the cardinal directions. The fort walls were pierced with four gates, one on each side where the streets intersected with the wall. At the intersection of these cardinal streets, at the centre of the square, Mandvi Gate was built. The entire structure is illuminated during festivals and is truly a sight to behold.

Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III had an entire monument built to commemorate the cremation of his family members. This monument was called the Kirti Mandir. Widely known as the Temple of Fame, this structure was constructed also to celebrate the fifty years of his mighty administration. One of the carvings on the cenotaph makes one reminisce about the good old days, where India was not divided into so many states and territories, due credit to the undivided map of India displayed on the central arch. The 33 m high central arch is also ornamented with the sun, the moon and the earth and the rooms behold the sculptures and photographs of the members of the Gaekwad family.

Constructed by the Gaekwads in 1894, the Vadodara Museum and Picture Gallery is host to umpteen numbers of relics relating to a wide spectrum of fields right from archeology to geology. It also houses a few rare personal collection pieces of Maharaja Sayajirao III. Some of the most noteworthy relics include the 109 miniature paintings of the Mughal times, a Persian version of Mahabharata specially commissioned by Mughal Emperor Akbar and a 11th century Shiva in the Natraja pose, amongst others.

Sayaji Baug or Gardens, was dedicated to Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III by Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III himself. It is the most extensive garden in India’s western region and sprawls over 45 hectares of land. The garden was built in 1879 on the banks of the river Vishwamitri, and it comprises of a broad spectrum of flora, with more than 99 species of trees. The park also houses two museums, a planetarium, a zoo, a toy train for children and a flower clock. This park is a popular hangout for locals, especially during weekends.

Decked with green manicured lawns and towering palm trees, the crowd puller at the Ajwa Nimeta Garden is the 100-meter row of perfectly aligned musical fountains that mesmerise visitors with coordinated water shoots in the background of lively colours.

Located at a distance of about 90 km from Varoda in the heart of the Shoolpaneshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, the perennial and gorgeous Zarwani Waterfalls provide you an opportunity to trek, picnic, and indulge in wildlife photography.

Deserted today, the city of Champaner provides a glimpse of the kind of prosperity which must have existed at one point of time. Located in the foothills of Pavagadh, the Champaner-Pavagadh Archaeological Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that rests on a rocky hilltop and is dotted with mosques, forts, temples and palaces. The architecture of many old mosques reflect a blend of Islamic and Jain tradition. You also come across various heritage monuments belonging to the 16th century including mosques, temples, fortresses and palaces, among others. Some of the famous attractions worth checking out are the Jama Masjid, the Lila Gumbaj ki Masjid, the Lakulisa Temple, Pavagadh Fort and the Helica step-well. The hill of Pavagadh is believed to be a chunk of the Himalayas that was originally carried by Hanuman to Lanka in the Hindu mythological epic, the Ramayana.

Anand
Known as the Milk Capital of India, Anand came into the nation’s conscious when it became famous for Amul dairy and its milk revolution spearheaded by Dr. Verghese Kurien.

The Anand Milk Union Limited or Amul is a brand name that every Indian knows and has tasted. The Amul Chocolate Factory Dairy is a great place to revisit your childhood for adults and for children to believe they are in Willy Wonka’s world. You can see what goes behind making chocolate from all the stages of chocolate production, right from the earliest of stages to packaging. The factory also has a museum known as AMUL Co-operative Museum which has an exhibition, tracing down the storied past of one of the country’s greatest institutions and takes the visitor down the history of one of India’s best loved brands. It shows the advanced pasteurization methods of milk and the production of processed food. The museum is part of the history and heritage of Anand and has a photo gallery as well as an auditorium with a capacity to seat hundred people which showcases documentaries that take one back to its origins in the 1960s.

The Sun Temple at Borsad in Anand is dedicated to the Sun God. People believe that visiting and praying in this temple relives visitots from ailments which might cause unhappiness. The history behind this temple is a bit vague, but is believed that the temple was built at the insistence of the Sun God himself.

Travel Bucket List: India – Gujarat Part 2

Posted on May 1, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

South Gujarat, also known as Dakshin Gujarat is one of the wettest regions of India. The western part is almost coastal and is known as Kantha Vistar or coastal expanse in Gujarati, and the eastern part is also known as Dungar Vistar or hilly expanse, which ranges from 100 to 1000 metres, with the highest peak at Saputara in the Dang district. South Gujarat also has many towns which are probably familiar names to many people in Mumbai. Having done my entire schooling in a Parsi school, many of the towns show where the ancestors of classmates, friends and even teachers came from. So you have someone whose last name is Ankleshwaria whose ancestors definitely were from Ankleshwar, a Barucha who has roots in Baruch, an Udwadia from the holy town of Udvada, a Bulsara who came from Valsad and a Vapivala from the town of Vapi!

Surat
Also known as the Diamond City of India, Surat will be one of the world’s fastest growing cities between 2019 to 2035 according to a study conducted by the Economic Times. This port city and the commercial and economic centre of South Gujarat is is famous for its diamonds and textile Industries and as a shopping centre for apparels and accessories. It is the eighth largest city and ninth largest urban agglomeration in India and is located on the south bank Tapi river, about 14 km to the Arabian Sea. This city has has always attracted traders and merchants from afar. Its finely carved mosques, Parsi agiaris, European tombs and colonial houses all testify to the eclectic mix of ethnic communities that continue to live in the city. Surat is first major city en route to Gujarat from Mumbai, and makes a good base to explore southern Gujarat. Surat was once renowed for its silk weaving and brocade. The city still thrives as a textile center, mainly for its polyster fabrics. As the textile industries declined in Ahmedabad and Mumbai in the 1970s, Surat became one of Gujarat’s fastest growing cities and gave rise to several small scale industries.

So what can you see in and around Surat?

Dumas Beach – This urban beach located along the Arabian Sea, is located around 21 km southwest of Surat city. Because of high concentrations of iron, the sand in this beach takes on almost black colour. The beach also has stories about paranormal activities and hauntings and is said to be one of the most haunted places in India.

Suvali Beach – A calm and serene beach, the Suvali Beach is around 20 km west of Surat on the shore of the Arabian Sea, Though not as popular with locals, this beach is slowly developing into a tourist spot. This beach is also a black sand beach with the sand being of soft texture. Since there are not many people visiting the beach, you get to relax and experience solitude there. There are no vendors or restaurants situated near the beach thereby providing you with complete isolation.

Dabhari Beach – Located at a distance of 33 kms northwest of Surat, Dabhari Beach is one of the hidden gems of the state. Boasting of soft shiny sand, alluring sunrise and sunset views of the Arabian Sea, the beach has a lengthy coastline which is ideal for romantic walks along the shore. In addition, there are several shacks on the beach which sell food and drink. This beach is devoid of tourists and is a place where mostly locals flock to, so you will more or less have a section of the beach to yourself. Nearby is the Maa Khodiyar Temple nearby If you wish to visit.

Surat Castle – Dating back to the 16th century, Surat Castle or Surat Fort was constructed by Safi Agha, a Turkish soldier who had been enobled with the title of Khudawand Khan under orders of the Ahmedabad king Sultan Mahmood III who ruled between 1538 to 1554 against frequent Portugese incursions into the city. This structure sits on the banks of the river Tapi and is now filled with government offices, but you can go up to the top for a marvelous view of the city and Tapi river.

Chintamani Jain Temple – One of the oldest Jain temples in Surat, Chintamani temple was built in 1699 AD during the rule of Aurangzeb. During 12th century AD, there ruled a king called Kumarpal. He belonged to the Solanki dynasty and kept Acharya Hemachandraji as his advisor. The Acharya was a Jain preacher, poet and philosopher, and under the rule of Kumarpal there was overall prosperity in the kingdom. The Chintamani temple is said to be constructed to honour those great people. The temple has some intricately and beautifully carved designs on the wood with the ceilings showcasing paintings made from natural vegetable colour. The paintings depict Acharya Hemachandraji, King Kumapal and other Solanki kings. Apart from the being a religious place of worship, this Jain temple is also a specimen of the art of the 17th century. It is a clean, well-maintained and peaceful temple with religious, meditative, artistic and historic feel to it.

Sardar Vallabhai Patel Museum and Planetarium – Also known as the Sardar Sangralaya, this museum was established in 1889, and the collection represents the rich history and eclectic ethnic mix of Surat. It also provides maps for travelers. The musem is open from 9 am to 11:30 am and then again from 2:30 pm to 5pm every day except Sundays and public holidays. The Planetarium runs a show on the universe in Gujarati from 11:15 am to 1:45 pm from Wednesday to Saturday and then again from 2:45 pm to 5:45pm on Sundays and Tuesdays. The museum and planetarium are closed on Mondays.

Other smaller towns in South Gujarat include

Vapi
Situated near the banks of the Damanganga River, around 28 km south of Valsad, the town of Vapi is surrounded by the Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu. The town originally belonged to the Kshatriya Jagirdar family Palande during the Maratha empire, who now reside in Dungra. After independence from the British Crown in 1951, the jagirdar system was abolished by the Indian government and the community of Anavil Brahmin who formerly acted as tax farmers during the era of the Maratha empire received the land. It is believed that city got its name from the old small stepwell situated near the Balitha area. The meaning of the word Vapi in sanskrit is a water reservoir or a water storage body.

Vapi is also Known as the City of Chemicals, it is the largest industrial area in Gujarat in terms of small-scale industries, dominated by the chemical industry and because of this is among the most polluted places in India. This pollution is caused mainly because of the poor air and water quality in the town which is due to the chemical factories in the area.

You can make day trips to the union terrotiries of Daman and Diu which is less than a thirty minute drive from Vapi as well as Dadra and Nagar Haveli which is around an hour’s ride away. Other places to visit in Vapi include the GIDC Garden on the banks of the Damanganga river, the rustic Jerome fort,

Udvada
The town of Udvada, around 14 km from Vapi is the holiest places for the Parsi community. This town is renowned for its Zoroastrian Atash Behram, the oldest functioning Parsi fire temple where it is said the same flame burns which the first Parsi immigrants brought with them when they fled persecution in Iran and landed in Gujarat. Udvavd literally stands for grazing ground of camels, which was actually the town`s condition, prior to becoming a fishing village.

The importance of Udvada in Parsi history and religion centres around the Atash Behram (from Middle Persian Atash Warharan for “Victorious Fire”, the highest grade of ritual fire of the Zoroastrians) housed in the fire temple there.

The Udvada Atash Behram is the most sacred of the Zoroastrian fire temples in India and the oldest continuously burning fire-temple fire in the world. The Udvada Atash Behram is one of nine Atash Behrams worldwide, eight of which are in western India (four in Mumbai, two in Surat, one in Navsari, and the one in Udvada), and one of which is in Yazd, in central Iran.

The fire at the Udvada Atash Behram is called as the “Iranshah Fire”, so called because it was consecrated to be the earthly representative of Yazdegerd III, the last Zoroastrian king of Iran.

The ceremonies in Udvada are held on the ninth day of the ninth month in the Shahenshahi or imperial version of the Zoroastrian calendar. Pilgrims from all over the world visit the temple on that day. According to tradition and later as a result of legal verdict, nine priestly families of Sanjan and their heirs are the sole lawful guardians of the fire and its temple. They alone have the right to enjoy its income. The position of high priest passes in turn from the head of one family to the head of another.

Udvada also hosts a Zoroastrian heritage museum, sponsored by the Government of Gujarat. This museum contains summaries of the teachings and beliefs of Lord Ahura Mazda, as well as has a large write up that tells you about the history of the Parsis and Ahura Mazda. It also has explanations and write ups on the holy ceremony of the Parsis called Navjot, which is a baptism into the Parsi faith, which every Parsi child undergoes before they hit puberty.

Since the Parsi fire temple is open only to adherents of the faith, there’s not much to do in Udvada unless you are a Parsi. You can walk around the town and eat delicious Parsi food. This town can be done as a day trip from Vapi, Valsad and Surat.

Valsad
Historically known as Bulsar, Valsad is the district headquarters of Valsad district. The name “Valsad” is derived from vad-saal, a Gujarati language compound meaning “hampered (saal) by banyan trees (vad)” as this area was naturally rich in banyan trees. During the British colonial rule, Valsad was known as “Bulsar”. Earlier a village, Valsad was made the district headquarters during the Bombay Presidency, and was later governed under Bombay State, finally becoming part of the Gujarat state.

Prominent places of interest in the town include the Tithal Beach which is situated on the coastline and is famous for its black sand. It is a popular tourist destination in south Gujarat. Tithal Beach Festival and International Kite Festivals are also organized on the shore of the beach which are famous in this part of Gujarat. The Shree Shirdi Saibaba Sansthapan which is located on the shore of the Tithal beach was established in 1982 and is a famous local place of worship. The Shantidham Aradhana Kendra also in Tithal is famous for those who want to achieve mental peace and spiritual experience among the monks. The Tadkeshwar Mahadev Temple which is an ancient temple over 800 years old, is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located in Abrama. The Nargol Beach close to Valsad is one of those rare unexplored beauty-spots. This secluded beach, probably one of the few undiscovered spots in the tourist itinerary, has lush palm trees and greenery all around, making entire surrounding gorgeous. Stretches of sands, dotted with graceful casuarinas trees, the soft gentle waves crashing on the shore along with the pacific breeze, makes the surroundings cosmic paradisaical.

Bilimora
Situatied on the banks of the river Ambika, Bilimora lies about 25 km south of the district headquarters of Navsari. In the late 18th century, the Baroda State established a naval station at Bilimora, a port about 40 miles or 64 km south of Surat, known as Bunder Bilimora Suba Armor. A fleet of 50 vessels was stationed here, mostly sailboats, cargo vessels for trading and military vessels to secure the sea from the Portuguese, the Dutch and the French.

In addition to having Parsi settlements, and the tasty bakery goods that are a natural consequence, it is also a centre for the forest produce of the neighbouring district of Dang and is an important railway junction for travel to the mountain area of Saputara.

Bilimora is a small city with lot of temples, such as the Shri Jalaram Mandir, Shri Gayatri Mandir, Shri Dwarkadhish Mandir, the Swaminarayan Mandir, the Ganga Mata Temple, Shri Ramji Mandir at Talodh, the Somnath Mahadev Mandir and a Sikh Gurudwara on Gandevi Road. Saputara, the only hill station in Gujarat, is around 110 km away from Bilimora. One can visit Waghai, Saputara, Gira Falls in Dang District, India via a day road trip from Bilimora.

The Unai hot springs is another popular place in this area. Many local people believe in the legend of Lord Sri Rama which is linked to the hot springs reservoirs.

Navsari
Located about 30 kms south of Surat and on the banks of the river Purna, Navsari is an important commercial centre in south Gujarat. This city is also called a twin city to Surat and people live in Navsari and travel to Surat to work and vice versa. Originally known as ‘Navasarika’ and the capital of a vishya or administrative unit in the Lata region, NAvsari is also identified with ‘Nusaripa’, a city mentioned in Ptolemy’s 2nd century Greek-language work Geography. The Chalukyas of Navasarika, who governed the area around Navsari as subordinates of the Chalukyas of Vatapi, repulsed an Umayyad invasion of the area in 738-739.

Historically, the first settlement of the Parsis took place in Navsari in 1142. Two families of Parsi Zoroastrian priests settled in Navsari in the early 13th century, and the town soon emerged as the major centre of the Parsi priesthood and religious authority. As Parsi communities grew in other places in India, the priests from Navsari were sought by the new Parsi settlements. Surat replaced Navsari as the principal settlement of the Parsi community in the 18th century, following its rise as a major trade centre for the European factories, and the Maratha incursions into Navsari. Surat itself lost this position to Bombay in the later years. The pioneer of the Indian steel industry and the founder of the House of Tatas, Mr.Jamshedji Tata was born in Navsari. The house where he was born is well preserved and recommended for a visit.

The Meherjirana library is one of the oldest libraries in south Gujarat. It was established by the first Dastur or Parsi priest Meherjirana, who was also born in Navsari. He was invited by emperor Akbar in a religious programme organized by the Mughal emperor. Leaders of all religious groups participated in it. Akbar asked them to start a conversation and eventually asked them to give information about their religions. All the religious leaders gave information about their religions and gradually tried to show their religions as great except Dastur Meherjirana. Afterward, the leaders asked Akbar his opinion as to whose religion is great. Akbar was really impressed by Dastur Meherjirana, so he asked him. Meherjirana Dastur calmly replied, “All religions are equal in terms of strength and ideology and principle”. Akbar was extremely impressed by his personality. He donated a piece of land to Dastur Meherjirana in Navsari, where today the Meherjirana Library stands. Emperor Akbar wrote on a scroll about the donation of land which is still preserved by the management of the library.

Dandi Beach is immortalised in Indian history where Mahatma Gandhi ended the Dandi March also known as the Namak Satyagraha or Salt non-violent protest and picked up a pinch of salt in protest of the salt tax and the British rule and started his civil disobedience movement which eventually led to Indian independence, the Dandi beach lies about 21 km west of Navsari and around 49 km southwest of Surat. Great for a quick, yet not far weekend getaway from Surat, the sand in this serene and pristine beach which goes as far as your eyes can see makes a beautiful contrast against the blue sky.

Ajmalgadh is a cave surrounded by hills and forests lying between Valsad and Navsari. During times of persecution, the Parsis fled to the forest in the hills of Ajmaldadh to save and protect their sacred fire-cauldron for nearly 250–350 years. Recently, local administration constructed a pillar on the hill of Ajmalgadh describing the story. They also closed the cave which was used to protect the holy fire.

Bharuch
Bharuch formerly known as Broach lies on the mouth of the Narmada river and is the administrative headquarters of Bharuch District. The oldest city of Gujarat and the second second-oldest city of India having continuous inhitations, Bharuch has a known history for about 8000 years. Bharuch was a ship building centre and sea port in the pre-compass coastal trading routes to points west, perhaps as far back as the days of the pharaohs. Bharuch was known to the Greeks, the various Persian Empires, in the Roman Republic and Empire, and in other Western centres of civilisation through the end of the European Middle Ages. In the 3rd century, Bharuch port was mentioned as Barugaza. Arab traders entered Gujarat via Bharuch to trade and the British and the Dutch took note of Bharuch’s importance and established their business centres here. At the end of the 17th century, it was plundered twice, but resurged quickly. Afterwards, a proverb was composed about it, “Bhangyu Bhangyu Toye Bharuch”, which translates to “Although battered and shattered at by the tidal waves of time, it is still Bharuch”. As a trading depot, the limitations of coastal shipping made it a regular terminus via several mixed trade routes of the fabled spice and silk trading between East and West. During the British Raj it was officially known as Broach.

Bharuch derives its name from the great sage Bhrigu. The original name of Bharuch is ‘Bhrigukachchha’. Bhrigu Rishi was one of the ten sons of Lord Brahma. There is also a story which indicates that Brighu along with his kins asked for temporary access to Bharuch which then belonged to Lakshmi since Bharuch is located on the banks of river Narmada also known as Rudra Deha. Brighu never left the place and the Ashram of Brighu Rishi is located on the banks of Narmada. Bharuch has been the home to the Gujarati Bhargav Brahmin community for eons. The community traces its lineage to Maharshi Bhrigu rishi and Bhagwan Parshuram who is considered to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The Bhargav community still administers a large number of public trusts in the city, but the numbers have reduced due to migrations over the years. Bharuch finds its mention in major Hindu scriptures, such as Bhagavata Purana, Shiva Purana, Skanda Purana, Kurma Purana, Matsya Purana, Ramayana and Mahabharata. Because of the distinctive colour of its soil, ideal for cotton cultivation, Bharuch is sometimes referred to as ‘Kanam Pradesh’ or black-soil land.

Places of interest in and around the city include the Bhrigu Rishi Temple located in the east of the city on the banks of the river Narmada. This temple is one of the most sacred temples in the state as the city’s name is derived from this temple. It is believed that it was at this temple that Rishi Bhrigu wrote the first Indian Astrological work, Bhrigu Samhita which documented five million horoscopes, in which he wrote down the fate of every being in the universe.

One of India’s most sacred rivers, the river Narmada flows through the city and it is believed that a dip in the Narmada river washes ones sins away, and that her divine sight alone makes one pure. According to a legend, the river Ganges is polluted by millions of people bathing in it. To cleanse herself, Ganges acquires the form of a black cow and comes to the Narmada to bathe in its holy waters. Legends also mention that the Narmada River is older than the river Ganges.

The Swaminarayan Temple in the city is a 175-year-old temple and hosts a palette of colours on its walls. The Narmada Mata Temple, close by is a 150-year-old temple dedicated to the Goddess Narmada. The Vaishnav Haveli enshrines an idol of Bal Krishna or baby Krishna and is said to have come from Mathura in 1725.

The Soneri Mahal or Golden Palace is a 1000 year old fort built by King Siddhraj Jaysinh, the then king of Gujarat. The fort is situated on a hill top which overlooks the Narmada river. Within the fort are the Collector’s office, Civil Courts, the Old Dutch factory, a church, the Victoria Clock tower and other buildings. Today the place where Goddess Lakshmi was supposed to have lived is a police station!

A unique feature of Bharuch is the Meghraja festival celebrated in the month of Shravan, sometime in August-September for 25 days. A 5.5 feet idol of Meghraj or the King of the Gods, Lord Indra is prepared from the soil of Narmada river and is worshiped for 25 days. A fair is organised during the last 4 days of this festival. This festivel is celebrated only in Bharuch and nowhere else in India.

Bharuch hosts one of the oldest libraries of Gujarat, the Raichand Deepchand Library, started in 1858. It has a collection of around 200,000 books.

Kabirvad is a small island about 16 km east of the city of Bharuch rumoured to be Saint Kabir’s residence several hundred years ago. Located along the banks of the river Narmada, the main attraction here is a gigantic banyan tree covering an area of more than 2.5 acres. What started as a single Banyan tree in Kabirvad has emanated into over 3000 trunks currently, with the mother tree believed to be over 600 years old, interestingly the tree populous has grown manifold to such an extent that it is impossible to distinguish the mother tree from the other trees at present. According to legend, it is at this place that saint Kabirdas meditated and the tree grew from a meswak stick which is used to brush teeth that was thrown here by the saint. A single tree has over years proliferated into a tree with several trunks and spread in over 2.5 acres of land. Other added attractions on the island are the lotus shaped marble temple, the Kabir museum and a boat ride on Narmada river.

The Statue of Unity is a colossal statue of the Indian statesman and independence activist Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel (1875–1950), who was the first Deputy Prime Minister and Home minister of independent India and the chief adherent of Mahatma Gandhi during the non-violent Indian Independence movement. It is located around 100 km east of Bharuch on a river facing the Sardar Sarovar Dam on river Narmada. The total height of the structure is 240 m, with a base of 58 m and statue of 182 m. The height of 182 was specifically chosen to match the number of seats in the Gujarat Legislative Assembly. The Statue of Unity is the world’s tallest statue at 182 m and rises 54 m higher than the previous record holder, the Spring Temple Buddha in China’s Hainan province

Saputara
Gujarat’s only hill station, Saputara is perched in the Sahayadri mountain ranges in the boder area between Maharashtra and Gujarat in the Dang district. Ahwa, Gira Water Fall, Sanctuary, Table Top, Sunset Point, Boating, Rope-Way, Paragliding etc. are main attractions of Saputara. Located in the Sahyadri range at an altitude of almost 1,000m, this hill-station derives its name from the snake god which is highly revered by the tribal people. Saputara means “the abode of serpents”. Although Saputara has a pleasant climate year round, if you really want to enjoy this place, go in the winter months between December and February.

There is much to do at this charming hill station. You can spend an idyllic holiday walking through the lush green forests, or trek up the mountains. If you wish, you can have a picnic by any of the several waterfalls that abound here. There are meandering paths for you to lose yourself in as you walk hand-in-hand with a loved one.

Make sure you are there around March just before the festival of Holi to take part in the Dang Darbar and soak in the culture of the Saputara and Dang. The festivities take place five days before Holi and you will be able to experience the joy and happiness of the people through dance, music, songs, garba events and even street dramas. The Dang Darbar is a popular festival and attracts crowds from far and wide, so make sure you plan in advance if you are going during this peak period.

The weather in winter of Saputara is perfect for paragliding and in fact, the hill station hosts the Paragliding Festival, an annual 26-day long festival in the months of December and January. It’s no wonder Saputara is rightly called India’s paragliding destination.

In the next post of this series, we will move to central Gujarat, which is where the major city of the state, Ahmedabad is located.

Travel Bucket List: India – Gujarat Part 1

Posted on April 20, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Located in India’s westernmost part, bordering Pakistan, the state of Gujarat has a 1,600 km long coastline, most of which lies on the Kathiawar peninsula. The fifth largest state by area and the ninth largest state by population, Gujarat with its population in excess of 60 million is bordered by Rajasthan to the northeast, Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu to the south, Maharashtra to the southeast, Madhya Pradesh to the east, and the Arabian Sea and the Tharparkar, Badin and Thatta districts of Pakistani province of Sindh to the west. The capital city is Gandhinagar, while its largest city is Ahmedabad. Gujarat’s economy is one of the strongest in the country at number five and is built upon the business acumen of its people.

Historically, the north was known as Anarta, the Kathiawar peninsula, “Saurastra”, and the south as “Lata”. Gujarat was also known as Pratichya and Varuna. The Arabian Sea makes up the state’s western coast. Gujarat has the longest coastline – 24% of the Indian coastline is in this state and is dotted with 41 ports: one major, 11 intermediate and 29 minor.

The state encompasses some sites of the ancient Indus Valley Civilisation, such as Lothal, Dholavira and Gola Dhoro. Lothal is believed to be one of the world’s first seaports. Gujarat’s coastal cities, chiefly Bharuch and Khambhat, served as ports and trading centres in the Maurya and Gupta empires, and during the succession of royal Saka dynasties from the Western Satraps era. Along with Bihar and Nagaland, Gujarat is one of the three Indian states to prohibit the sale of alcohol. Gir Forest National Park in Gujarat is home of the only wild population of the Asiatic lion in the world.

The word Gujarat is derived from the Sanskrit term Gurjaradesa, meaning “The Land of the Gurjaras”, who ruled Gujarat in the 8th and 9th centuries. Parts of modern Rajasthan and Gujarat have been known as Gurjaratra or Gurjarabhumi or land of the Gurjars for centuries before the Mughal period.

Present day Gujarat was one of the main central areas of the Indus Valley Civilisation. It contains ancient metropolitan cities from the Indus Valley such as Lothal, Dholavira, and Gola Dhoro. The ancient city of Lothal was where India’s first port was established. The ancient city of Dholavira is one of the largest and most prominent archaeological sites in India, belonging to the Indus Valley Civilisation. The most recent discovery was Gola Dhoro. Altogether, about 50 Indus Valley settlement ruins have been discovered in Gujarat.

There is clear historical evidence of trade and commerce ties between ancient Gujarat and Egypt, Bahrain and Sumer in the Persian Gulf during the time period of 1000 to 750 BC. There was a succession of Hindu and Buddhist states such as the Mauryan Dynasty, Western Satraps, Satavahana dynasty, Gupta Empire, Chalukya dynasty, Rashtrakuta Empire, Pala Empire and Gurjara-Pratihara Empire, as well as local dynasties such as the Maitrakas and then the Chaulukyas who ruled the state.

The early history of Gujarat reflects the imperial grandeur of Chandragupta Maurya who conquered a number of earlier states in what is now Gujarat. Pushyagupta, a Vaishya, was appointed the governor of Saurashtra by the Mauryan regime. He ruled Girinagar which is now modern-day Junagadh between 322 to 294 BC and built a dam on the Sudarshan lake. Emperor Ashoka, the grandson of Chandragupta Maurya, not only ordered engraving of his edicts on the rock at Junagadh but asked Governor Tusherpha to cut canals from the lake where an earlier Mauryan governor had built a dam. Between the decline of Mauryan power and Saurashtra coming under the sway of the Samprati Mauryas of Ujjain, there was an Indo-Greek defeat in Gujarat of Demetrius. In 16th century manuscripts, there is an apocryphal story of a merchant of King Gondaphares landing in Gujarat with Apostle Thomas. The incident of the cup-bearer torn apart by a lion might indicate that the port city described is in Gujarat.

For nearly 300 years from the start of the 1st century AD, Saka rulers played a prominent part in Gujarat’s history. Mahakshatrap Rudradaman I founded the Kardamaka dynasty which ruled from Anupa on the banks of the Narmada up to the Aparanta region which bordered Punjab. In Gujarat, several battles were fought between the south Indian Satavahana dynasty and the Western Satraps. The greatest and the mightiest ruler of the Satavahana Dynasty was Gautamiputra Satakarni who defeated the Western Satraps and conquered some parts of Gujarat in the 2nd century AD. The Kshatrapa dynasty was replaced by the Gupta Empire with the conquest of Gujarat by Chandragupta Vikramaditya. Vikramaditya’s successor Skandagupta left an inscription around 450 AD on a rock at Junagadh which gives details of the governor’s repairs to the embankment surrounding Sudarshan lake after it was damaged by floods. The Anarta and Saurashtra regions were both parts of the Gupta empire. Towards the middle of the 5th century, the Gupta empire went into decline. Senapati Bhatarka, the Maitraka general of the Guptas, took advantage of the situation and in 470 AD he set up what came to be known as the Maitraka state. He shifted his capital from Giringer to Valabhipur, near Bhavnagar, on Saurashtra’s east coast. The Maitrakas of Vallabhi became very powerful with their rule prevailing over large parts of Gujarat and adjoining Malwa. A university was set up by the Maitrakas, which came to be known far and wide for its scholastic pursuits and was compared with the noted Nalanda University. It was during the rule of Dhruvasena Maitrak that Chinese philosopher-traveler Xuanzang or I Tsing visited in 640 AD along the Silk Road.

Gujarat was known to the ancient Greeks and was familiar with other Western centers of civilisation through the end of the European Middle Ages. The oldest written record of Gujarat’s 2,000-year maritime history is documented in a Greek book titled The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea: Travel and Trade in the Indian Ocean by a Merchant of the First Century.

In the early 8th century, the Arabs of the Umayyad Caliphate established an empire in the name of the rising religion of Islam, which stretched from Spain in the west to Afghanistan and modern-day Pakistan in the east. Al-Junaid, the successor of Qasim, finally subdued the Hindu resistance within Sindh and established a secure base. The Arab rulers tried to expand their empire southeast, which culminated in the Caliphate campaigns in India fought in 730; they were defeated and expelled west of the Indus river, probably by a coalition of the Hindu rulers Nagabhata I of the Pratihara Dynasty, Vikramaditya II of the Chalukya dynasty and Bappa Rawal of Guhila dynasty. After this victory, the Arab invaders were driven out of Gujarat. In the late 8th century, the Kannauj Triangle period started. The three major Indian dynasties – the northwest Indian Gurjara-Pratihara Dynasty, the south Indian Rashtrakuta Dynasty and the east Indian Pala Empire – dominated India from the 8th to 10th centuries. During this period the northern part of Gujarat was ruled by the north Indian Gurjara-Pratihara dynasty and the southern part of Gujarat was ruled by the south Indian Rashtrakuta dynasty until it was captured by the south Indian ruler Tailapa II of the Western Chalukya Empire.

Zoroastrians from Greater Iran migrated to the western borders of South Asia which were then Gujarat and Sindh during the 8th or 10th century, to avoid persecution by Muslim invaders who were in the process of conquering Iran. The descendants of those Zoroastrian refugees came to be known as the Parsi community both in present day India and Pakistan.

The Chaulukya dynasty ruled Gujarat from 960 to 1243 AD and at that time, Gujarat was a major center of Indian Ocean trade, and their capital at Anhilwara (Patan) was one of the largest cities in India, with population estimated at 100,000 in the year 1000. After 1243, the Solankis lost control of Gujarat to their feudatories, of whom the Vaghela chiefs of Dholka came to dominate Gujarat. In 1292 the Vaghelas became tributaries of the Yadava dynasty of Devagiri in the Deccan. Karandev of the Vaghela dynasty was the last Hindu ruler of Gujarat. He was defeated and overthrown by the superior forces of Alauddin Khalji from Delhi in 1297. With his defeat, Gujarat became part of the Muslim empire, and the Rajput hold over Gujarat would never be restored.

An independent Muslim community continued to flourish in Gujarat for the next hundred years, championed by Arab merchants settling along the western coast belonging to the Shafi’ite madhhab. From 1297 to 1300, Alauddin Khalji, the Turko-Afghan Sultan of Delhi, destroyed the Hindu metropolis of Anhilwara and incorporated Gujarat into the Delhi Sultanate. After Timur’s sacking of Delhi at the end of the 14th century weakened the Sultanate, Gujarat’s Muslim Rajput governor Zafar Khan Muzaffar also known as Muzaffar Shah I asserted his independence, and his son, Sultan Ahmed Shah who ruled between 1411 to 1442, established Ahmedabad as the capital. Khambhat eclipsed Bharuch as Gujarat’s most important trade port.

Later, a close alliance between the Ottoman Turks and Gujarati sultans to effectively safeguard Jeddah and the Red Sea trade from Portuguese imperialism, encouraged the existence of powerful Rumi elites within the kingdom who took the post of viziers in Gujarat keen to maintain ties with the Ottoman state. The Mughal emperor Humayun, had also briefly occupied the province in 1536, but fled due to the threat Bahadur Shah, the Gujarat king, imposed. The Sultanate of Gujarat remained independent until 1572, when the Mughal emperor Akbar the Great conquered it and annexed it to the Mughal Empire. The Surat port then became the principal port of India during Mughal rule to gain widespread international repute. The city of Surat, famous for its cargo export of silk and diamonds had come on a par with contemporary Venice and Beijing which were some of the great mercantile cities of Europe and Asia, and earned the distinguished title, Bab al-Makkah or Gate of Mecca.

In 1497, Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama is said to have discovered the Europe-to-India sea route which changed the course of history, thanks to Kutchi sailor Kanji Malam, who showed him the route from the East African coasts of Mozambique sailing onwards to Calicut off the Malabar coast in India. Later, the Gujarat Sultanate allied with the Ottomans and Egyptian Mamluks naval fleets led by governor-generals Malik Ayyaz and Amir Husain Al-Kurdi, vanquished the Portuguese in the 1508 Battle of Chaul resulting in the first Portuguese defeat at sea in the Indian Ocean. To 16th-century European observers, Gujarat was a fabulously wealthy country. The customs revenue of Gujarat alone in the early 1570s was nearly three times the total revenue of the whole Portuguese empire in Asia in 1586–87, when it was at its height. When the British arrived on the coast of Gujarat, houses in Surat already had windows of Venetian glass imported from Constantinople through the Ottoman empire. The conquest of the Kingdom of Gujarat marked a significant event of Akbar’s reign. Being the major trade gateway and departure harbour of pilgrim ships to Mecca, it gave the Mughal Empire free access to the Arabian sea and control over the rich commerce that passed through its ports. The territory and income of the empire were vastly increased.

For the best part of two centuries, the independent Rajput Sultanate of Gujarat was the cynosure of its neighbours on account of its wealth and prosperity, which had long made the Gujarati merchant a familiar figure in the ports of the Indian Ocean. Gujaratis, including Hindus and Muslims as well as the enterprising Parsi class of Zoroastrians, had been specialising in the organisation of overseas trade for many centuries, and had moved into various branches of commerce such as commodity trade, brokerage, money-changing, money-lending and banking. By the 17th century, Chavuse and Baghdadi Jews had assimilated into the social world of the Surat province, later on their descendants would give rise to the Sassoons of Bombay and the Ezras of Calcutta, and other influential Indian-Jewish figures who went on to play a philanthropical role in the commercial development of 19th-century British Crown Colony of Shanghai. Spearheaded by Khoja, Bohra, Bhatiya shahbandars and Moorish nakhudas who dominated sea navigation and shipping, Gujarat’s transactions with the outside world had created the legacy of an international transoceanic empire which had a vast commercial network of permanent agents stationed at all the great port cities across the Indian Ocean. These networks extended to the Philippines in the east, East Africa in the west, and via maritime and the inland caravan route to Russia in the north.

When the cracks had started to develop in the edifice of the Mughal Empire in the mid-17th century, the Marathas were consolidating their power in the west. Chatrapati Shivaji, the great Maratha ruler, attacked Surat in southern Gujarat twice first in 1664 and again in 1672. These attacks marked the entry of the Marathas into Gujarat. However, before the Maratha inroads into Gujarat, the Europeans had made their presence felt, with the Portuguese leading them, followed by the Dutch and the English. The Peshwas had established their sovereignty over parts of Gujarat and collected taxes and tributes through their representatives. Damaji Gaekwad and Kadam Bande divided the Peshwa’s territory between them, with Damaji establishing the sway of Gaekwad over Gujarat and made Baroda or present day Vadodara in southern Gujarat his capital. The ensuing internecine war among the Marathas was fully exploited by the British, who interfered in the affairs of both Gaekwads and the Peshwas. In Saurashtra, as elsewhere, the Marathas were met with resistance. The decline of the Mughal Empire helped form larger peripheral states in Saurashtra, including Junagadh, Jamnagar, Bhavnagar and a few others, which largely resisted the Maratha incursions.

In the 1600s, the Dutch, French, English and Portuguese all established bases along the western coast of the region. Portugal was the first European power to arrive in Gujarat, and after the Battle of Diu, acquired several enclaves along the Gujarati coast, including Daman and Diu as well as Dadra and Nagar Haveli. These enclaves were administered by Portuguese India under a single union territory for over 450 years, only to be later incorporated into the Republic of India on 19 December 1961 by military conquest. The British East India Company established a factory in Surat in 1614 following the commercial treaty made with Mughal Emperor Nuruddin Salim Jahangir, which formed their first base in India, but it was eclipsed by Bombay after the English received it from Portugal in 1668 as part of the marriage treaty of Charles II of England and Catherine of Braganza, daughter of King John IV of Portugal. The state was an early point of contact with the west, and the first British commercial outpost in India was in Gujarat.

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Later in the 17th century, Gujarat came under control of the Hindu Maratha Empire that rose defeating the Muslim Mughals and who dominated the politics of India. Most notably, from 1705 to 1716, Senapati Khanderao Dabhade led the Maratha Empire forces in Baroda. Pilaji Gaekwad, first ruler of Gaekwad dynasty, established the control over Baroda and other parts of Gujarat. The British East India Company wrested control of much of Gujarat from the Marathas during the Second Anglo-Maratha War in 1802–1803. Many local rulers, notably the Rajput Maratha Gaekwad Maharajas of Baroda (Vadodara), made a separate peace with the British and acknowledged British sovereignty in return for retaining local self-rule. An epidemic outbreak in 1812 killed half the population of Gujarat.

Gujarat was placed under the political authority of the Bombay Presidency, with the exception of Baroda state, which had a direct relationship with the Governor-General of India. From 1818 to 1947, most of present-day Gujarat, including Kathiawar, Kutch and northern and eastern Gujarat were divided into hundreds of princely states, but several districts in central and southern Gujarat, namely Ahmedabad, Broach (Bharuch), Kaira (Kheda), Panchmahal and Surat, were governed directly by British officials.

After Indian independence and the partition of India in 1947, the new Indian government grouped the former princely states of Gujarat into three larger units; Saurashtra, which included the former princely states on the Kathiawad peninsula, Kutch, and Bombay state, which included the former British districts of Bombay Presidency together with most of Baroda state and the other former princely states of eastern Gujarat. Bombay state was enlarged to include Kutch, Saurashtra (Kathiawar) and parts of Hyderabad state and Madhya Pradesh in central India. The new state had a mostly Gujarati-speaking north and a Marathi-speaking south. Agitation by Gujarati nationalists, the Mahagujarat Movement, and Marathi nationalists, the Samyukta Maharashtra, for their own states led to the split of Bombay state on linguistic lines; on 1 May 1960, it became the new states of Gujarat and Maharashtra. In 1969 riots, at least 660 died and properties worth millions were destroyed.

The first capital of Gujarat was Ahmedabad; the capital was moved to Gandhinagar in 1970. The Nav Nirman Andolan, a socio-political movement of 1974, was a students’ and middle-class people’s movement against economic crisis and corruption in public life. This was the first and last successful agitation after the Independence of India that ousted an elected government.

The 2001 Gujarat earthquake’s epicentre was located about 9 km south-southwest of the village of Chobari in Bhachau Taluka of Kutch District. This earthquake’s magnitude of 7.7 shock killed around 20,000 people, including at least 18 in South-eastern Pakistan, injured another 167,000 and destroyed nearly 400,000 homes.

In February 2002, the Godhra train burning lead to statewide riots, resulting in the deaths of 1044 people – 790 Muslims and 254 Hindus, and hundreds missing still unaccounted for. The Akshardham Temple was attacked by two terrorists in September 2002, killing 32 people and injuring more than 80 others. National Security Guards intervened to end the siege killing both terrorists. On 26 July 2008 a series of seventeen bomb blasts rocked the city, killing and injuring several people.

The Sabarmati River is the largest river in Gujarat followed by the Tapi, although the Narmada covers the longest distance in its passage through the state. The Sardar Sarovar Project is built on the Narmada River and it is one of only three rivers in peninsular India that run from east to west – the others being the Tapi River and the Mahi River. Gujarat has some of the major mountain ranges of India, including the Aravallis, the Sahyadris or what is commonly known as the Western Ghats, the Vindhyas and the Saputaras. Girnar is the tallest peak and Saputara is the only hill-station in the state. The Rann of Kutch is a seasonally marshy saline clay desert located in the Thar Desert biogeographic region in between the province of Sindh and the state of Gujarat situated 8 kilometres from the village of Kharaghoda in the Surendranagar District and Pakistan’s Sindh province. The name “Rann” comes from the Gujarati word rann which means “desert”.

As per the 2011 census, the state has one of the lowest sex ratios in the country. There are 918 girls for 1000 boys. Hindus makes up the biggest number of residents at about 88.5% with Muslims constituting about 10% and the others the balance 1.5% of the population. Gujarat has the third-largest population of Jains in India, following Maharashtra and Rajasthan. The state’s official language is Gujarati which is spoken natively by about 86% of the population. People from the Kutch region also speak in the Kutchi mother tongue, and to a great extent appreciate Sindhi as well. Memoni is the mother tongue of Kathiawar and Sindhi Memons, most of them who are exclusively Muslims.

The best time to visit the state is between une to March, when the weather is pleasant as compared to the summer, when heat and humidity rules the roost.

So let’s go and visit Vibrant Gujarat as the state tourism puts it. This time, instead of starting with a state’s capital city and then fanning outwards, I am going to start first with South Gujarat which is the part closest to my home state of Maharashtra and then move to Central Gujarat, North Gujarat and then loop back to Saurashtra and Kutch.

Travel Bucket List – India: Odisha Part 5

Posted on March 30, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

A state which is rich in natural resources, Odisha has some beautiful naure parks, wildlife sanctuaries and other natural beautities. This post is all about these nature’s bounties in the state.

Lake Chilika
Chilika Lake is the largest internal salt water lake in Asia, a paradise for bird watchers and nature lovers. The pear-shaped lake is dotted with a few small islands and has fisheries and salt pans around its shore. The Chilika Lake also houses the most accommodating ecosystems in the world, which means a wide assortment of flora and fauna can be spotted here.

A geological survey has confirmed that Chilka used to be a part of the Bay of Bengal during the late Pleistocene period. The place has an important role to play in the history of India. During the rule of the Kalinga dynasty, Chilka was a bustling commercial centre and a prominent harbour. Ptolemy also talks about the Chilka Lake in his text as an important port.

Spread over an area of 1100 sq km, the Chilika Lake Sanctuary is also one of the most visited sanctuaries in the state. The Chilika Lake attracts an array of birds that choose this spot as their winter stopover, and come to visit this lake from as far as Iran, Siberia and Central Asia. The graylag geese, purple moorhen, flamingo, Brahminy Kite, spot-billed pelican, bar-headed goose, open-billed stork, pintail, king fisher, Egret, Avocet, gulls, tern, herons and white-bellied sea eagles are found here in large populations. In fact, the Chilika Bird Sanctuary is home to one of the largest breeding colonies of flamingos in the world.

Some of the interesting and visited places in this area include Bird Island where ornithologists flock in large numbers to witness birds in their natural habitat and Nalabana which is a huge island in the centre of the lake that gets completely submerged during the monsoon months and a designated bird sanctuary. There is also Kalijai Island which is considered to be the abode of Goddess Kalijai. The temple located here has an interesting history to it – it is widely believed that a young girl named Kali, and her sister who later came here looking for her, were both drowned in this island and the residents vouch to have heard their cries. Upon the construction of a temple, the cries ceased, and since then, the place has had a significant religious value. The location is easily accessible via a boat from the Chilika Lake and is a must visit at the time of Makar Sankranti, when the Makar Mela takes place. Then there is Satapada Island which is surrounded by the lagoon on three sides and attracts visitors because it is home to the flagship species of the Chilika Lake, the Irrawaddy dolphins. This island is one of the only two lagoons in the world where this endangered species can now be found. You can easily reach this the island via boats arranged by the Odisha Tourism Development Corporation (OTDC). Other islands, including the Breakfast Island, Beacon Island and Honeymoon Island are also popular attractions that tourist love to visit. Please ensure that when you travel on boats in the lake, you only travel on the ones that have been provided by OTDC, since other local boats do not have life jackets.

The best time to visit the Chilika Lake is the winter months between October to March, when you can see the sheer variety of migratory birds coming there plus you had the added benefit of cooler weather and daytime temperature remains pleasant. Do avoid the monsoon season between June to September.

Tikarpada Wildlife Sanctuary
Spread across a lush 795.52 acress, the Tikarpada Wildlife Sanctuary enthrals visitors with its overwhelming beauty, lush green surrounding, the ever cherished rambling of River Mahanadi besides the very famous Satkosia gorge and the large variety of wild animals, birds and plants. The speciality of Tikarpada is its efforts towards bringing back the endangered gharials or crocodiles. The gharials that find their home here at the Gharial Sanctuary, who were reintroduced in the Mahanadi River ecosystem to increase the level of their population.

Sometimes thunderous and sometimes calm river Mahanadi renders the opportunity for fish angling, or to motor-boat or river rafting across it. You can choose to trek or camp in the sanctuary as well. This a perfect destination for the lovers of nature, wildlife and adventure.

Tikarpada has tropical climatic conditions and so the months between September to March are the best months to visit this place.

Satkosia Tiger Reserve
Satkosia spreads along the magnificent gorge over the mighty river Mahanadi in Odisha. Located around 160 km from Bhubaneswar, this sanctuary created in 1976 is home to tigers in the deciduous forests of the Eastern Ghats. The name Satkosia originates from two words; sat meaning seven and kos meaning two miles, indicating the length of the gorge as 14 miles or 22 km. The area was declared as Satkosia Tiger Reserve in 2007, comprising two adjoining wildlife sanctuaries; the Satkosia Gorge sanctuary and Baisipalli sanctuary. It is also home to elephants, birds and other animals that can be spotted in the wild. The reserve has an area of 963.87sq km with 523.61sq km as core area. The area is also a part of the Mahanadi elephant reserve. Satkosia is the meeting point of two bio-geographic regions of India; the Deccan Peninsula and the Eastern Ghats, contributing immense biodiversity.

When boating, one can spot the river-inhabitants being the Gharials or the Indian fish-eating crocodile. The Mahanadi River passes through a 14 mile long gorge, being the reason why the town was named Satkosia from Saat Kros, Kros being an old local measurement.

There are various lodging options operated by the Odisha Forest Development Corporation in Satkosia. You can also visit the neighbouring Kuanria Deer Park & Dam and the Kantilo Neelamadhav Temple.

Bhitarkanika National Park & Wildlife Sanctuary
Located at a distance of 120 km from Cuttack in Odisha, the Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary is a one of a kind sanctuary that sprawls over 650 sq. kms and boasts of rich marine vegetation, salt tolerant varieties of trees and plants, rivers and creeks. Home to some of the rarest species in the world both in terms of flora and fauna, the sanctuary is mainly known for its species of reptiles especially crocodiles, however, it also attracts a plethora of migrant species like Olive Ridley Sea Turtles, Asian Open Bill, Black Ibis, Egrets, and Darters etc. In the winter (which is the ideal migrating season for avifauna species), you can find as many as 215 species of migratory birds.

The highlight of the wildlife sanctuary is the rare white crocodile that can grow up to 23 feet. Another attraction of the region are the sprawling mangrove trees making it the second largest mangrove forest in India. There are several entrances available for the park, the most popular one of which is boating from Khola to Dangmal. This entrance allows you to walk through the dense forests and experience the rich ecosystem in all its glory. The visitors can also choose to stay at the forest guest houses if they want to spend the night maidst bounteous nature and rich wildlife.

Simlipal National Park
Reflecting the natural beauty of a bygone era, the Simlipal National Park is a beautiful and scenic place. Situated in Mayurbhanj, it once used to be a hunting ground for the rulers of the province. Simlipal is the largest wildlife sanctuary in India and is also considered as one of the principal tiger projects in India. It is part of the Mayurbhanj Elephant Reserve, which includes three protected areas — Similipal Tiger Reserve, Hadgarh Wildlife Sanctuary and Kuldiha Wildlife Sanctuary. The Simlipal National Park derives its name from the abundance of red silk cotton trees growing in the area and is the 7th largest national park in India. The area is rich with dense forests, striking meadows, startling waterfalls and beautiful rivers. It is blessed with great bio-diversity and huge varieties of fauna that make it a great place to engage in wildlife sightseeing! Simlipal Reserve is home to more than 1000 varieties of plants. It has around 96 species of orchids that are endemic to the forest. Baripada is the nearest town to Simlipal and can be considered a gateway to the same.

The park has some beautiful waterfalls like Joranda and Barehipani Falls. It is home to Bengal tiger, Asian elephant, gaur, and chausingha. Besides Simlipal provides habitat fo as well as an orchidarium. This protected area is part of the UNESCO World Network of Biosphere Reserves since 2009.

Duduma Waterfalls
The 175-metre high horsetail type, single fall cascade of Duduma waterfall tears through the rugged rocks of the Eastern Ghats and the dark green deciduous forest that is so widespread in this region. It creates an exhilarating scene amidst the rustic greenery right along the border of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha. Formed by the Machkund river, which gets its name from the pilgrimage site Matsya Kunda near Paderu in Andhra Pradesh, the fall has two sub-waterfalls, one on the Odisha side and the other on the Andhra Pradesh side. The grandeur of the falls is at its full display especially during and after the monsoon. Along with the picturesque waterfall, there is also a hydel power project plant and a customary dam to facilitate it. With prior permission from the authorities, you can pay a visit to the powerhouse and get a first-hand experience of how this alternate source of energy is created. Located around 70 km from Jeypore, Duduma attracts those who love nature and want to explore places beyond the stereotypical boundary of tourism.

Chandaka Forest
The Chandka Elephant Sanctuary is a wildlife reserve located in the south fringe of Cuttack and is nestled on Khurdha uplands of the Eastern Ghats biotic region. The Chandaka Forest is spread over 175.79 sq km of rolling table land and small sprawling hillocks in the Khurdha and Cuttack districts. It was designated as an elephant reserve in December 1982. The floral diversity is distributed in six types and the Indian elephant is the flagship fauna species. There are a number of watch towers for visitors to observe wildlife. While the Kochilaberana, Pitagadia and Charichhak watch towers are excellent for observation of birds and animals, the ones at Kumarkhunti and Ambilo have the comfort of rest houses where one can make a night halt. There are also two water reservoirs, Deras Dam and Jhumka Dam, situated within the reserve. The cottages near Deras provide a scenic view of the Chandaka reserve and a chance to see wildlife.

Kotgarh Elephant Reserve
Situated in the Baliguda subdivision of the Kandhamal district the Kotgarh Wildlife Sanctuary is classified as an Eastern Highlands moist deciduous forest. Around 52 tribal villages such as Kutia Kondh and Desia Kondh inhabit the sanctuary. Designated and proposed reserve forests include Madagoda, Haripur, Lassery, Bonduru, Supamaha, Killangi, Subarnagiri and Guma. A known tiger habitat, the forest patch is adjacent to an old elephant corridor from Boudh, Karlapat and Lakhari valley in Gajapati district’s Gandahati waterfall region. The Kotgarh sanctuary is nominated to be a part of the proposed 14 elephant corridors for safe movement of the elephants which frequently come out of their habitation in search of food and water.

Karlapat Wildlife Sanctuary
The Karlapat Wildlife Sanctuary is located in the Kalahandi district and a very popular tourist attraction Located around 12 km from Bhawanipatna, the district headquarters of the Kalahandi district, the sanctuary covers an area of 175 sq km and lies within the Eastern Highlands moist deciduous forests ecoregion. A beautiful waterfall, ‘Phurlijharan’ has been developed as a picnic spot for the local visitors and draws large number of visitors from far off places in and around Kalahandi District. The sanctuary is home to a plethora wildlife animals and birds.The sanctuary is rich in wildlife such as leopard, gaur, sambar, nilgai, barking deer, mouse deer,soft claws ottawa, a wide variety of birds and reptiles. The undulated topography of the sanctuary, with hills, valley, perennial streams and deep water pools give it an unique charm.

Travel Bucket List – India: Odisha Part 4

Posted on March 27, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

After seeing the inland towns and cities of Odisha, let’s turn to it’s coastal cities. With a long coastline and the eastern boundary of the state being the Bay of Bengal, there are some stunning beaches in this state.

Konark
65 kms south of Bhubaneshwar, Konark is set like a jewel against the stunning backdrop of the Bay of Bengal. One of the wonders of India, the carvings of the Konark Sun Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attract large flocks of tourists throughout the year. Along with the marvelous temples, the city has a lovely beach and an engrossing archaeological museum to explore.

The Konark Sun Temple is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the prime tourist attractions of Odisha along with the Puri Jagannath Temple. Built in the form of a giant rath or chariot of the Sun God, it depicts the chariot being pulled by a set of seven horses, four on the left side and three on the right. It has three deities dedicated to the Sun God on three different sides of the temple which catch the direct rays of sun in the morning, afternoon and evening. There is also a dedicated archaeological museum inside the temple complex. The temple transforms into a stage during The Konark Dance Festival, which is held every year usually in February for five days and attracts a lot of foreign and Indian tourists. The Sun Temple is one of the last standing structures from before the fifteenth century in the country. The sun rays reach the Nata Mandir from the coast and reflect through the diamond at the centre of the idol. The idol is believed to float mid-air due to arrangements of the magnets at the top of the temple but they were later removed due to the disturbance caused to ships and technology. An engineering and artistic masterpiece, the Sun Temple reflects the artistic genius of architects and sculptures of an ancient time despite the fact that much of the temple in ruins today. The Sun Temple complex also houses shrines, such as the Mayadevi Temple and Vaishnava Temple, which are popular among visitors.

Situated 3 kms east of Sun Temple where the Chandrabhaga river joins the sea is the Chandrabhaga Beach, one of the most beautiful and pollution free beaches in the country. Owing to its immaculately clean shores and crystal clear waters, the beach has been awarded with the Blue Flag Certification by the Foundation of Environmental Education (FEE), a tag given to environmental friendly beaches which meet their stringent standards. Lined with tall trees and vast expanse of golden sands, the beach holds cultural and historical importance as well. Several cultural festivals and religious fairs are held here frequently which attract a lot of pilgrims and devotees to the beach. During the annual Chandrabhaga Fair, the beach takes on a very different look and comes alive with people, colours, light and activities. Go to the top of the lighthouse standing near the beach to take in the beach, sea, people and activities.

The Archaeological Museum is situated outside the Sun Temple and houses some unique artifacts which reflect the essence of Oriyan art form. The museum has 250 different kinds of antiques recovered from the Sun Temple. The museum started operating from its present location in 1968, when the fallen structures and archaeological remains of the Sun Temple were shifted to the present museum. The museum comprises of four galleries which preserve around 260 antiques that have been retrieved from the clearance work of the Sun Temple like carved stones, images of Surya Narayana and erotic sculptures. Besides these, the museum also displays images of various other monuments and archaeological sites of Odisha. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm everyday except Friday.

Astaranga meaning “colourful sunset” is a magnificent beach located near the mouth of the Devi river at a distance of 19 km from Konark. As the name suggests this beach is famous for the picturesque views that it provides during the sunset. The sky takes on vivid hues and the blue water in juxtaposition of it makes the whole place look magical. The beach is also a famous fishing village and every morning a market is set up on the beach from where you can purchase the different varieties of fresh fish. During the winter months the beach becomes a safe haven for the Olive Ridley turtles who nest here in large numbers and can be seen crawling on the sand. The best time to visit this beach is in the winter between October and March. There is a sufi shrine located at the edge of the beach is which is dedicated to Saint Makhdum Jahanganst. Visited by people from all faiths, the umbrella and wooden shoes of the saint are kept as relics.

Chaurasi is small village situated on the right bank of river Prachi. This place is famous for its temples dedicated to Barahi, Amareshras and Laxminarayanan. Barahi, also known as Varahi, is the name of Mother Goddess whose temple was built in the first quarter of the 10th century. Goddess Barahi is depicted to have a boar face and a pot belly, holding a fish in one hand and a cup in the other. She has a third eye on her forehead and is worshipped according to the tantric rituals. The temple is lavishly decorated and has a rectangular porch at the superstructure level. Tourists flock to have a glimpse of the unique Barahi deity, who is offered fish everyday. The other two temples dedicated to Laxminarayan and Amareshwar also attract visitors.

The Kakatpur Temple is located in a small village called Kakatpur on the Puri-Astaranga road around 30 km from Konark on the banks of river Prachi. Goddess Mangala is the chief deity of the temple and this temple has a link to Puri’s famous Lord Jagannath Temple. On the occasion of the Nabakalebara or the festival of restoration of the idols, the priests from the Lord Jagannath Temple come to Goddess Mangala at the Kakatpur Temple and pray to her to help them find the sacred trees to create the new idols for Jagannath, Subhadra and Balabhadra. Jhamu Yatra is a popular festival celebrated in the Kakatpura Temple. It falls on the first Tuesday of the Hindu calendar month of Baisakh, during April 14 to May 15, every year.

The Ramachandi Temple, located around 5 km from Konark is the temple of the reigning Lord of Konark, Ramachandi, on the banks of Kushabhadra river. The temple is famous as one of the Sakta Pithas of Puri. The main temple is built on a raised platform and has figures of the Sun God on three walls of the temple – the south, west and north walls. Goddess Chandi, the reining deity, remains seated on a lotus flower inside the temple. This temple is believed to be more ancient than the Sun Temple of Konark. There is a beach near the temple which is a popular picnic spot among locals, especially young couples.

A unique place near Konark, Kuruma is a small village about 8 km from the Sun Temple. This place gained fame after excavations were carried out in this small hamlet from 1971 to 1975. The findings include a high wall and antique images of Heruka or Dharma, Sun God and Buddha. This place then became popular as a Buddhist tourist spot. The excavated site was believed to be constructed in the 9th–10th centuries and is believed to have been a Buddhist monastery. The idol of Buddha discovered at this place is seated in a cross-legged position. The right hand of the idol is in Bhumisparsha mudra and it has the left hand resting on the left knee. The image is a decorated one, with a beautiful crown and a wonderfully engraved necklace.

Paradeep
Paradip or Paradeep, is located at the confluence of Bay of Bengal and Mahanadi and is one of India’s busiest ports as well as the oldest and largest in the state. In addition to the busy dockyard, the city also has some amazing beaches that offer amazing views. Boasting of golden shimmering sands, indigo blue waters, lined with huge rock boulders, laced with emerald green forests and adorned with a quaint island is actually and estuary of the river Mahanadi. The dash of rocks at the side offers an amazing marine drive and make for an ideal day-out destination. Don’t forget to try the famous Paradeep Lassi, also known as the Gaveskar Lassi made from coconut. It is available both at the beach and in the town.

A towering light house is also situated on the beach which allows tourist to come have a look from the inside. The light house is only open from 5-5:30 pm so make sure you plan your visit to the lighthouse accordingly.

The Gahirmatha Beach located close to Paradeep beach is home to a rare species of white crocodiles, and is famous for white monitor lizards, sea turtles, migratory birds as well as deer. The Bhitarkanika National Park, a forest with mangroves criss-crossed by rivers and streams, can take you a hundred years back in history when man, nature and animals lived in harmony. The the beach has lately become a hub for nesting for olive Ridley sea turtles.

The Paradeep Marine Aquarium houses an astonishing collection of vibrantly colourful fish. The in-house museum boasts of 28 splendid tanks with vast varieties of fresh water and marine species of fish and other aquatic animals.

The Smruti Udyan has been dedicated to the lives of thousands of people who died during the massive cyclone of 1999 that hit Odisha. The lush green garden at the front blooms with vibrant flowers ideal to spend an evening.

The Jagannath Temple is a tribute to India’s secular make-up. A 60-feet pillar called the Aruna Stambh is constructed at the entrance of the temple and has engraved holy symbols of Hinduism, Islam, Sikhism and Christianity. The most popular festival at the Jagannath Temple is the Car Festival where non-Hindus also take part enthusiastically in drawing the chariot and in other festivities.

Located at a short distance of 12 kms from the Paradeep Beach, Nehru Bangla is just the guest house where the first Prime Minister of India Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru stayed at when he came to inaugurate the Paradeep Port. The guest house has now also been converted into a tourism spot for people who want to go have a look.

The Hanuman temple is yet another prominent attraction here. Dedicated to Lord Hanuman, the tiny mandir invites pilgrims from the all over the city to pay homage. Tuesdays are the most crowded days of the week at the temple.

Gopalpur
A small coastal town around 15 km from Berhampur and close to the border with Andhra Pradesh, Gopalpur lies towards the south of the state. Gopalpur also has an ancient, commercial port, now lying in ruins. Under the ownership of the Soraine family the village grew in wealth, from an obscure little fishing village, Gopalpur became a prominent trading port. The family built the port, the lighthouse and the Albert Hotel and established both a local fishing industry and a trade route with Burma. What was once a bustling port city before being deserted, is today, one of the best beaches in the eastern coastline of the country. It is know for being an offbeat destination and a place for relaxation. The beaches are sparkling gold which along with the azure water of the Bay of Bengal providing a perfect place to relax and immerse yourself in nature.

The Gopalpur beach is a luxurious beach and is popular for being one of the few sites in India where Olive Ridley Turtles nest. Flanked with coconut and casuarina groves, it is a perfect outing for a languorous weekend. The beach, also known as ‘Gopalpur-on-Sea’ has a calm and soothing coast. It is famous for hosting the annual Gopalpur Beach Festival and offers up the possibility of experiencing a number of aqua sports.

One of the most popular landmarks of the beach is its lighthouse which offers a marvellous 360 degree view of the entire city of Gopalpur, the azure waters of the Bay of Bengal and some parts of the Chilika Lake. One can also see the exotic red crabs casually strolling on the beach’s lonely coast! The lighthouse is a great place for photographers, both professional and amateur, to capture amazing photos of the town and beach

Aryapalli Beach is an absolutely gorgeous beach during high tide at sunset. The coastline of Aryapalli Beach falls in the rain-shadow of the region, so the beach get a fair amount of rain during the monsoon season. The beach is a quiet and charming place where visitors can relax and refresh. It is a cherished experience that one gets by visiting the place. The best time to visit the beach is between the months of October and June. Surfing, sun bathing and swimming are a few leisure activities that are popular with visitors.

Sonepur Beach is considered by most of the tourists as one of the best beaches in the entire state of Orissa. Located on the borders of Andhra Pradesh and Orissa, this beach divides the sea from the main land along with the River Bahuda. Sonepur Beach is a natural beauty untouched by human civilization. This beach is quite close to Berhampur, just at a drive of around 11 km. You can take a motor boat services to the sangam or meeting point of the river and the Bay of Bengal.

The Maa Tara Tarini Hill Shrine is considered as one of the oldest shrines of Maa Tara in the entire country. It is situated on the Kumari Hills on the banks of the River Rushikulya, just a few kilometres away from the coastal town of Gopalpur and about 13 km away from Berhampur, the nearest railway station. Thousands of devotees visit the place on a regular basis in order to get the auspicious blessings of the Mother Goddesses. There are two Goddesses in the temple, Maa Tara and Maa Tarini beautifully ordained with gold and silver ornaments. They are believed by the locals to be the manifestations of Adi Shakti. The temple is also considered as one of the ancient Shakti Peethas of India.

Chandipur
16 km from Baleswar railway station, Chandipur is famous for its disappearing sea. A quaint seaside town which offers complete serenity and tranquillity, this is the best place if you want to relax and spend some quality time either alone or with your loved ones. India’s missile testing launch pad is also located here and missiles like Agni, Prithvi, Akash and Shaurya can be seen here. You can visit this testing range by taking special visiting permission from the authorities. Chandipur is also famous for its sea food and sweets which are a huge hit with tourists. Chandipur is at its best during winters when the cool breeze by the beach hits you as you walk along the seashore.

The Chandipur Beach’s unique specialty is the ebb tides that recede around 1 to 4 km during low tides and they tend to disappear rhythmically. The beach has spectacular views of the rising and setting sun. When the water disappears, you can even take jeep ride towards the sea. The sea disappears during the day in this beach and locals call this this the “Hide and Seek Sea”. Watching the sea disappear and miraculously reappear as it plays with you is an unforgettable experience that will leave you in awe of the miracles of nature. During the time when the sea receeds, you can walk deep into the actual seabed. In fact, when you walk on the beach when it has receded, only your feet get submerged into the shallow water and get surrounded by moist sand; so if you take a picture from afar, it looks as if you are actually walking on water.

The Panchalingeshwar Shrine, lies around 36 km from Chandipur and is located amidst the dense green vegetation and rocky hills of the Nilagiri Hills. It is popular for the Shiva shrine which is located on the hill top. Five Shiv Lingas which are born naturally in the middle of two large rocks with a stream flows over these Lingas. A temple has been built by the side where priests perform rituals and worship the deity. You need to climb 263 steps to get to the temple which start at the foot of the hill.

The town of Nilagiri or Blue Mountain is located around 32 km from Chandipur and where the Panchalineshwar temple is situated on one of the hills. The name comes from the apparent blue colour of the hills. The royal palace and the Jagannath temple adjacent to it are are must-vist places in this town. You can get to see the antique gold and diamond ornaments along with the royal clothes worn by the then Kings and Queens of Nilagiri kept for display inside the palace. The spectacular Khumkut Dam, close to the town can also be checked out.

Bhitarkanika, located at a distance of 206 km from Chandipur, lies at the delta of Bhramani, Baitarani and Dhamra rivers. Embellished with exotic wildlife and lush green forest, Bhitarkanika sees tourists pretty much throughout the year. Visitors have to take permission for entry from the Forest Authority of Bhitarkanika. To reach the place, one has to take a boat ride from Khola to Dangmal which is the only means of communication. The ride is very enthralling as one can witness the second-largest mangrove ecosystem in India. Bhitarkanika has a National Park encompassed by the Wildlife sanctuary. Gahira Matha beach lies nearby which acts as a separator between the jungle and the Bay of Bengal. Rich in flora and fauna, Bhitarkanika is home to exotic and endangered wild species like white crocodiles, saltwater crocodiles, monitor lizards, pythons, king cobra, darters and many more. Birds from Central Asia and Europe migrate here creating an added advantage for tourism

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

Tag Archives: Travel