In My Hands Today…

Meet Me in Venice: A Chinese Immigrant’s Journey from the Far East to the Faraway West – Suzanne Ma

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When Ye Pei dreamed of Venice as a girl, she imagined a magical floating city of canals and gondola rides. And she imagined her mother, successful in her new life and eager to embrace the daughter she had never forgotten.

But when Ye Pei arrives in Italy, she learns her mother works on a farm far from the city. Her only connection, a mean-spirited Chinese auntie, puts Ye Pei to work in a small-town cafe. Rather than giving up and returning to China, a determined Ye Pei takes on a grueling schedule, resolving to save enough money to provide her family with a better future.

A groundbreaking work of journalism, Meet Me in Venice provides a personal, intimate account of Chinese individuals in the very act of migration. Suzanne Ma spent years in China and Europe to understand why Chinese people choose to immigrate to nations where they endure hardship, suspicion, manual labor and separation from their loved ones.

Today all eyes are on China and its explosive economic growth. With the rise of the Chinese middle class, Chinese communities around the world are growing in size and prosperity, a development many westerners find unsettling, and even threatening. Following Ye Pei s undaunted path, this inspiring book is an engrossing read for those eager to understand contemporary China and the enormous impact of Chinese emigrants around the world.

Travel Bucket List – India: Odisha Part 2

After reading about the history and geography of Odisha as well as it’s capital city of Bhubaneshwar, let’s move on to to some of the other cities in the state.

Cuttack
The cultural capital of Odisha and the state’s former capital and its second largest city, is known as an ancient pilgrim centre. This place has forts, museums, lakes, and islands for your viewing pleasure. Make sure you check out the local silver handicrafts which Cuttack is famous for.

The Barbati Fort is a well known fort with carved gateway. Located around 8 km away from the city on the banks of the river Mahanadi, it is a 14th century fort built covering an area of about 102 acres during the Ganga dynasty. The way the fort has been buit means that it provides a beautiful and spectacular view of the modern Cuttack city. It is the earthen mound of the 9 storeyed palace. The monument was built with fortification to protect from enemy attacks. There is a also a temple dedicated to the Katak Chandi in the fort.

Situated on the banks of Kathjuri River, Stone Revetment is an engineering marvel created in the 11th century. These stone walls are constructed so as to obstruct flood water from entering the city. Remember this was built at a time when there was zero technology as we know today, hence is a brilliant example of the technical skills and logical thinking of the ancient Oriyans.

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Dhabaleshwar temple is located 37 km away from the main city. It lies on a river island on the river Mahanadi and serves as a popular weekend getaway for locals. This temple, established in 10th century is an important pilgrimage centre and provides a beautiful scenic spot with a serene ambience. You reach this temple from Cuttack using ferries ferries. There is also a foot-over bridge which people can use by paying a nominal fee.

The Odisha State Maritime Museum, overlooking the Mahanadi River, focuses on Odisha’s centuries-old maritime history of boat-building and trade, particularly with Bali, Indonesia. The displays walk you through the Kalingas’ maritime activities, rituals and tools, while the boat shed features river-boat, raft and coracle models from different parts of India. The Jobra workshop gallery introduces the world of sluice gates and boat repair, and an aquarium entertains visitors with marine life from Odisha and the Amazon River.

Rayagada
A district with a rich history and distinct culture, Rayagada has, over the years, mingled with the local tribal culture. This district has many historical places to visit and is known for its cuisine, crafts and handmade products. Located in the south-eastern border of the state close to Andhra radish, this area has not been commercialised with tourists so is still underrated and an undiscovered gem. This district offers dense forests, historical monuments, a peek into the lifestyle of tribal populations and authentic food. Rayagada has been inhabited since before the Mauryan empire controlled this region and has been an essential part of most empires due to its abundant natural resources.

An avatar of Goddess Durga, Majhighariani is accepted as the prime, most important deity in this region. The name originates from the placement of Shakti’s temple in the middle of the fourteenth-century Silavansi king Viswanath Dev’s palace and translates to the one seated in the central room. The Maa Majhighariani temple attracts worshippers from all over the state and the country, especially Madhya Pradesh, Andhra Pradesh and Chhattisgarh. The temple is open from 6 am to 1 pm and then reopens again from 4 pm till 9 pm. While entry is free, to arrange a special darshan can cost Rs. 20, or Rs. 100 for the VVIP darshan. Sundays and Wednesdays witness a more massive footfall, while evenings are generally much less crowded. The festival of Chaitra Parva, which falls in April, is the most crucial time of the year for worshippers of Shiva and Majhighariani, which is also the time this temple is the most crowded. Durga Pooja and Shivratri also see an abundant influx of pilgrims. From the Rayagada railway station, it is a short 20 minute drive away.

The Hanging bridge in the Chekaguda village is the second of its kind in Orissa. Built in 2012, the 151 meters long suspended bridge has brought about 20,000-odd tribal villagers residing in nine panchayats located at the outskirt of the town, closer to the central city, by bridging the two shores of the Nagavali river. Also called the Jhula Bridge, given its construction, it is accessible only by pedestrians, as no vehicles are allowed to go through it. The Nagavali river has since become a tourist spot, and the bridge a tourist attraction, as families come to enjoy the serene environment of the river, the mountains around the valley, and the relative peace. The bridge is accessible all year round without any entry or crossing fee. The bridge is about 3 kms west of the Rayagada railway station, and it takes about 15 minutes to reach there by road.

Chatikona is a small tribal village located around 40 kms north of Rayagada. It is surrounded by the Niyamgiri hills and offers tourists wonderful natural beauty complete with lush green foliage and a fantastic waterfall. Chatikona is a Dongria Kondh tribal village, and one can get to see marketplaces full of tribal arts and handicrafts. The Chatikona Falls attracts a large number of tourists and picnickers, and the Shiva temple near it draws pilgrims from all over Odisha, especially during the period of Shivratri, when it can be very crowded. While it is an all-weather destination, it is advised to skip the rainy seasons as well as the Shivratri month to avoid congestion. There is no entry fee to view the falls. Chatikona is rather easily accessible by road and if you want to take the train, the nearest railway station is Bissamcuttack.

A pilgrim and tourist spot which is slightly further away, around 134 km north-east from the main town of Rayagada, Minajhola is a beautiful confluence of nature and religion. It houses a Shiva temple; at the meeting of 3 state rivers: Vamsadhara, Chauladhua, and Phalaphalia, where the idol is in the form of a fish called Minaketan, hence the name. It is a major pilgrim spot, given that Shivratri here is celebrated with much gusto. Due to its natural beauty, Manijhola attracts a lot of tourists also, to see the confluence of rivers, bathe in them, and picnic along the shore. The road to Minajhola is not very friendly and all-weather and the nearest railway station is Rayagada.

Located around 25 kms from the main town of Rayagada, the Laxminarayan Temple was built by the the Indian Metals and Ferro Alloys Ltd., near their factory in Therubali. It was built around 2004 as a place of worship of Vishnu and Laxmi, but also houses Jagannath, Hanuman, Balabhadra, and Shiva idols. Visitors abound from all over, especially more so for Shivratri festivities. A few kilometres further toward Paikapada, one can witness over one lakh Shivling at the Paikapada shrine. These two temples are also crowded during the Jagannath Rath Yatra season that takes place in the humid month of July. The Laxminarayan Temple is usually more crowded on Tuesdays.

Located just 3 kms from Rayagada, Hatipathar is a picnic spot much loved by tourists. It is named so because the Nagavali river flows here through a deep-cut valley, and the two boulders atop these waterfalls look like elephants perched on a hill. October to February are the best time to visit these falls, as temperatures are cooler and rainy season has passed. Surrounded by dense forests, these falls make for the perfect tea-time picnic spots for family and friends.

Daringbadi
If you are wondering if Odisha has any hill stations, then Daringbadi is the place to go to. Hidden a state famous for beaches and temples, this hill station lies peacefully at an elevation of 3000 feet waiting to be explored. Replete with pine trees, coffee gardens and splendid valleys, Daringbadi is known as the “Kashmir of Odisha”. A place where you can stay in quaint cottages amidst trees and valleys, the weather is inviting – beating the heat in summers and offering snow in the winter. The place does not only have verdant and thick forests, but is also bountiful in flora and fauna. The best part about this hill station is that you can visit this place throughout the year. The nearest railhead is at Brahmapur from where one can take the bus to the city. This town can be visited anytime of the year, though if you want to catch snow, then check the weather reports between December to February and go around this period when snow is predicted. The key attractions here are the Doluri River, Putudi Waterfalls, Dasingbadi waterfalls, Badangia waterfalls and Hill view Park.

Berhampur
Also known as Brahmapur, Berhampur close to the eastern coast Brahmapur is known as the home of Lord Brahma and is usually known as the silk city- the city which is famous for the lustrous ikkat silk sarees in different colours and patterns. Bomokei patta, named after the village Bomokei where excellent work out of brass and metal is created also is an attraction to the tourists here. Besides these beautiful handicrafts, handlooms and jewelery this city offers some of the best Papads (popadum), pickles, badis and fruits specially mangoes.

Potagarh fort is also known as “the buried fort” as the length of the wall is somewhere between 18 to 20 feet in height and looks dug. This historic specimen of architecture left with the remains of fort houses and buried tunnel specks, has deep water streams on three sides. This fort is on the the river Rasikulya and the Bay of Bengal. Locals say that the fort is haunted and the story is related to the goddess of the fort attacking the King and the King escaping through the tunnels.

Situated around 30 Km away from the main city the Taratarini temple is recognized to be one of the four major Shakti pitha or centre according to mythological texts of Satyuga. This 6000-year-old temple has historical connections and also finds a mention in the Puranas.

Jeypore
Another under-rated town in Odisha, Jeypore which is located in the southern part of the state, is known for offering spellbinding views of rocky outcrops, picturesque waterfalls, and lush green biosphere reserves. Jeypore is the second largest city after Berhampur of South Odisha and locally is pronounced as ‘Joypur’ is the literal meaning of the town is ‘City of Victory’. The highest peak in the state, Deomali, is a popular picnic spot located not very far from Jeypore. This town is home to about 62 affiliated communities such as Gond, Dhruba, Paraja, Koya.

The Gupteswar Temple meaning ‘Hidden God’ is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva temple beautifully hidden amidst caves set atop a huge limestone hill, around 55 km away from Jeypore. The main attraction at this temple is a gigantic Shiva Linga which is said to increase in size each year. According to mythology, the lingam was first discovered by Lord Rama when he was roaming in the then Dandakaranya forest with wife Sita and brother Laxman, and later worshipped it calling it ‘Gupteswar’. Pilgrims from all over the country come here during the Sravana period, because the yearly Bol Bam yatra is held at this place. Devotees walk to the Gupteshwar during Bol Bam yatra to bath in the maha kund, and then chant near the Shiva Linga. The prime anniversary, Shivratri is celebrated by the locals at Gupteshwar.

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Another famous waterfall, the Bagara waterfall is a favourite picnic spot for locals. You walk along the ravines and densely vegetated slopes of the winding hills and then suddenly come across the Bagara waterfall which falls from three different waterfalls, descending from a height of 30 ft. in the River Kolaban and is milky white in colour. It is a heavenly sight, especially when you are here for a picnic. This waterfall is easily accessible from Jeypore and you can take a bus, taxi or autorickshaw to get there.

The 157.5 metres high glittering waterfall that has been formed by the Machhakund River is known as the Duduma Waterfall. The site of the waterfall abounds in dense deciduous type forests and the beautiful topography made all the more beautiful by the gurgling stream. An enormous hydroelectricity project has been built around the falls and as a consequence a township can now be seen in Duduma. Machhakund is also an important place for pilgrimage and is known as ‘Matsya Tirtha’. These falls are located at a distance of 92 km from Koraput town and can be easily reached from both Koraput and Jeypore. The best time to visit the waterfalls around Jeypore is just after the monsoon season when you can see them in full bloom. September to November is therefore the best time to visit the waterfalls since the streams shrink considerably with the coming of winter.

Travel Bucket List: India – Odisha Part 1

Odisha, formerly known as the state of Orissa, is located on the eastern coast of India. It is bordered by the states of West Bengal and Jharkhand to the north, Chhattisgarh to the west and Andhra Pradesh to the south. Odisha also lies along the Bay of Bengal and has a coastline of about 485 km. This state is the eighth largest by area and the 11th largest by population. The state has the third largest population of Scheduled Tribes in India.

The ancient kingdom of Kalinga, which was invaded by the Mauryan emperor Ashoka in 261 BCE resulting in the Kalinga War, coincides with the borders of modern-day Odisha. The term “Odisha” is derived from the ancient Prakrit word “Odda Visaya” also sometimes known as “Udra Bibhasha” or “Odra Bibhasha” as in the Tirumalai inscription of Rajendra Chola I, which is dated to 1025. Sarala Das, who translated the Mahabharata into the Odia language in the 15th century, calls the region ‘Odra Rashtra’ as Odisha. The inscriptions of Kapilendra Deva of the Gajapati Kingdom (1435–67) on the walls of temples in Puri call the region Odisha or Odisha Rajya.

What we call the state of Odisha today was established on 1 April 1936, as a province in British India, and consisted of Odia-speaking regions, thus 1 April is celebrated as Utkala Dibasa. Also known as Utkala, the current capital of the state is Bhubaneshwar. Cuttack was made the capital of the region by Anantavarman Chodaganga in 1135, after which the city was used as the capital by many rulers, through the British era until 1948 after which post independence, Bhubaneswar became the capital. The name of the state was changed from Orissa to Odisha, and the name of its language from Oriya to Odia, in 2011, by the passage of the Orissa (Alteration of Name) Bill, 2010 and the Constitution (113th Amendment) Bill, 2010 in the Parliament.

The economy of Odisha is the 16th-largest state economy in India with ₹4.16 lakh crore (approximately US$58 billion) in gross domestic product and a per capita GDP of ₹ 93,000 (approximately US$1,300). Odisha ranks 23rd among Indian states in human development index.

Prehistoric Acheulian tools dating to Lower Paleolithic era have been discovered in various places in the region, implying an early settlement by humans. Kalinga has been mentioned in ancient texts like Mahabharata, Vayu Purana and Mahagovinda Suttanta. The Sabar people of Odisha have also been mentioned in the Mahabharata. Baudhayana mentions Kalinga as not yet being influenced by Vedic traditions, implying it followed mostly tribal traditions. Shanti Stupa at Dhauli is the location where Kalinga War was fought in 260 BC. Ashoka of the Mauryan dynasty conquered Kalinga in the bloody Kalinga War in 261 BC, which was the eighth year of his reign. According to his own edicts, in that war about 100,000 people were killed, 150,000 were captured and more were affected. The resulting bloodshed and suffering of the war is said to have deeply affected Ashoka and he then turned into a pacifist and converted to Buddhism. By 150 BC, emperor Kharavela, a Jain ruler, who was possibly a contemporary of Demetrius I of Bactria, conquered a major part of the Indian sub-continent. He also built the monastery atop the Udayagiri hill and subsequently, the region was ruled by monarchs, such as Samudragupta and Shashanka.

The kings of the Somavamsi dynasty began to unite the region an by the reign of Yayati II in 1025, they had integrated the region into a single kingdom. Yayati II is supposed to have built the Lingaraj temple at Bhubaneswar. They were replaced by the Eastern Ganga dynasty. Notable rulers of the dynasty were Anantavarman Chodaganga, who began re-construction on the present-day Shri Jagannath Temple in Puri in 1135, and Narasimhadeva I, who constructed the Konark temple in 1250. The Eastern Ganga Dynasty was followed by the Gajapati Kingdom. The region resisted integration into the Mughal empire until 1568, when it was conquered by Sultanate of Bengal. Mukunda Deva, who is considered the last independent king of Kalinga, was defeated and was killed in battle by a rebel Ramachandra Bhanja, who was then killed by Bayazid Khan Karrani. In 1591, Man Singh I, then governor of Bihar, led an army to take Odisha from the Karranis of Bengal. They agreed to treaty because their leader Qutlu Khan Lohani had recently died. But, they then broke the treaty by attacking the temple town of Puri. Man Singh returned in 1592 and pacified the region. In 1751, the Nawab of Bengal Alivardi Khan ceded the region to the Maratha Empire. The British had occupied the Northern Circars, comprising the southern coast of Odisha, as a result of the 2nd Carnatic War by 1760, and incorporated them into the Madras Presidency gradually. In 1803, the British ousted the Marathas from the Puri-Cuttack region of Odisha during the Second Anglo-Maratha War. The northern and western districts of Odisha were incorporated into the Bengal Presidency.

The Orissa famine of 1866 caused an estimated 1 million deaths following which large-scale irrigation projects were undertaken. In 1903, the Utkal Sammilani organisation was founded to demand the unification of Odia-speaking regions into one state. On 1 April 1912, the Bihar and Orissa Province was formed. On 1 April 1936, Bihar and Orissa were split into separate provinces and the new province of Orissa came into existence on a linguistic basis during the British rule in India, with Sir John Austen Hubback as the first governor. Following India’s independence, on 15 August 1947, 27 princely states signed the document to join Orissa.

The majority of the people in the state are Hindu with over 94% of the population professing the Hindu faith with Christians accounting for around 2.8% and Muslims accounting for 2.2%. The balance 1% is split between people from the Sikh, Buddhist and Jain communities.

It is believed that the oldest scripture of Odisha is the Madala Panji from the Puri Temple believed to be from 1042.

October to March is the best time to visit Odisha. So let’s start our journey to discover this very underrated state from it’s capital of Bhubaneshwar.

Bhubaneshwar
Known as the Temple City of India, Bhubaneswar is an ancient city which is a classic example of history, heritage, and urbanization. The place has marvelous temples showcasing amazing artwork, wildlife sanctuaries, and exhilarating caves. The name of the city literally means Lord of the Universe.

One of the must-visits when in Bhubaneshwar is the Lingaraj Temple. An ancient temple and the largest in the city, this temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Built in the 7th century by King Jajati Keshari, it is highly revered because of the fact that the Linga here, which is the phallic form of Lord Shiva, is believed to have appeared naturally. It rises to a massive height of 8 inches above the floor level and is about 8 feet in diameter as well. The edifice of the temple is a great example of the Odissi style of architecture and has intricately designed stone vaults covering the main sanctum of the temple. A small temple dedicated to Goddess Bhagawati is located in the northwest corner of the courtyard as well. However, entry is restricted to the followers of the Hindu faith only. The Lingaraj Temple is especially famous for its Mahashivratri celebrations when the whole sanctum is dressed up in flowers, lanterns, and lights. The temple has as many as 6,000 visitors on a daily basis with Shivratri being a major day of celebrations when this number surges to as many as 200,000 visitors.

Constructed in 650 A.D. the Parasurameswara temple, another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, is a unique specimen of the Oriyan style of architecture. The most special feature of this temple is the presence of one thousand lingas in the north-west corner of the complex. Besides the Lingas, it is adorned with beautiful carvings of Lord Ganesha, Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. The artistic splendor with which the detailing of the sculptures and carvings are done reflects the glory of the era gone by.

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The Vaital Deul temple is an 8th century temple with a double-storey ‘wagon roof’ architecture which is influenced by Buddhist cave architecture. This is one of the oldest temple in Bhubaneswar and is dedicated to goddess Chamunda and houses a lot of beautiful and intricate sculptures. This temple was a centre of tantric worship, eroticism and bloody sacrifice. If you look closely, you will see some very early erotic carvings on the walls.

A popular 11th-century Hindu temple the Rajarani Temple is locally known as the ‘love temple’ because it contains some sensuous carvings of women and couples. No images can be found inside the sanctum, and hence the temple is not associated with any particular sect of Hinduism. This is perhaps exactly where the charm of the temple comes from: the temple belongs to no specific sect and is open to all people irrespective of the deity that they worship and admire. However, the figures of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati carved on the walls strongly indicate that the temple has certain associations with Shaivism. This temple is famous for its ornate deul or temple spires. Around the compass points are pairs of statues representing eight dikpalas (temple guardians). Between them, nymphs, embracing couples, elephants and lions peer from niches and decorate the temple’s pillars. According to historians, it was constructed at some time between the 11th and 12th century, but the exact period has not yet been ascertained. In fact, it is from the Rajarani Temple that the architecture of other temples in central India is believed to have been developed; the most notable examples being the Khajuraho temples and the Totesvara Mahadeo temple in Kadawa. The Rajarani Temple is currently under the care of the Archaeological Survey of India and is maintained as a ticketed monument, that is tourists need to purchase a ticket to enter the temple.

The Mukteswara temple is another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. This small but beautiful 10th-century structure is one of the most ornate temples in Bhubaneswar. This temple presents a quintessential example of the beauty and grandeur of the Kalinga style of architecture. Intricate carvings show a mixture of Buddhist, Jain and Hindu styles – look for Nagarani (the Snake Queen), easily mistaken for a mermaid, whom you’ll also see at the nearby Rajarani Mandir. The ceiling carvings and stone arch are particularly striking, as is the torana (archway) at the front, clearly showing Buddhist sculptural influence. This temple has stood the test of time and still stands 35 feet tall in all its glory and charm. This temple has beautiful sculptures and carvings depicting the various Panchatantra stories.

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The Bindu Sarovar or Bindu Sagar is a water tank which is believed to be sacred by Hindus. This tank is surrounded by a number of temples and lies in the vicinity of the Lingaraj Temple. The water of the Bindu Sagar is believed to contain drops from all holy rivers and pools in India.

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The Orissa State Museum has an exclusive collection of some unique and ancient art and craft objects which includes stone sculptures, bronze coins, musical instruments, armors, pre-historic metal plates etc. The place is a must-visit for all history enthusiasts. Initially, the museum was only an archaeological museum with a collection of sculptures, terracotta, numismatics, copper plates and specimens of fine arts. With the growing interest of the people, the antiquities were reorganized in a systematic manner. Stone sculptures were rearranged in three groups related to their styles: such as Gandhara Art, North Indian Art, Odisha Art, and each group were subdivided into Buddhist, Jain and Brahnmanical images. Terracotta objects and coins were also organised according to the spots they were found in, their age and types.

The Museum of Tribal Arts & Artefacts is a superb museum with a splendid collection that introduces one to the 62 tribes of Odisha. Complete with interactive elements such as augmented reality glasses, its galleries display traditional dress, bead ornaments, silver collars, coin necklaces, elaborate headdresses, ornate wind pipes and musical instruments. One gallery is dedicated entirely to weaponry, fishing, hunting and agricultural equipment. Behind the museum are replicas of traditional houses from the Gadaba, Kandha, Santal, Saora and other tribes. The collection consists of traditional tribal costumes, jewellery, accessories, weapons and gears, farming equipment, etc. The Schedule Caste and Schedule Tribe Research and Training Institute have incorporated the museum for anthropological research.

The Regional Museum of Natural History has an impressive collection of plants, skeletons of rare and extinct animals, photographs and relevant samples from all over the world and information on the geology of the city. The galleries emphasize the conservation of nature and natural resources while depicting ecological interrelationship among plants and animals. Visually challenged students can feel the exhibits of animals on the premises. Established by the Ministry of Environment and Forest, this is the only museum in India that has, on display, a rare egg of the now extinct Elephant Bird, the Baleen Whale and many more such exhibits that help enlighten the knowledge of animal and nature lovers. Since May, 2017 this museum became one of the first museums in india to generate and use green energy though solar power production.

Six kilometres west of the city centre are two hills riddled with rock-cut shelters known as the Udayagiri and Kandagiri caves. Also known as Cuttack caves, the Khandagiri Caves are artificial caves date back to 2nd century. Khandagiri is topped with a fine temple. Many of the caves are ornately carved and thought to have been chiselled out for Jain ascetics in the 1st century BC. The place is quite a sight to see with all the beautifully carved inscriptions and figures. A large number of ancient temples with intricate carvings surround this place which have their own significance. Ascending the ramp at Udayagiri (Sunrise Hill), note Swargapuri (Cave 9) to the right with its devotional figures. Hathi Gumpha (Elephant Cave; Cave 14) at the top has a 117-line inscription relating the exploits of its builder, King Kharavela of Kalinga, who ruled from 168 to 153 BC. Around to the left you’ll see Bagh Gumpha (Tiger Cave; Cave 12), with its entrance carved as a tiger mouth. Nearby are Pavana Gumpha (Cave of Wind) and small Sarpa Gumpha (Serpent Cave), where the tiny door is surmounted by a three-headed cobra. On the summit are the remains of a defensive position. Around to the southeast is the single-storey elephant-guarded Ganesh Gumpha (Cave 10), almost directly above the two-storey Rani ka Naur (Queen’s Palace Cave; Cave 1), carved with Jain symbols and battle scenes. Continue back to the entrance via Chota Hathi Gumpha (Lesser Elephant Cave; Cave 3), with its carvings of elephants, and the double-storey Jaya Vijaya Cave (Victory Cave; Cave 5), with a bodhi tree carved in the central area. Across the road, Khandagiri offers fine views over Bhubaneswar from its summit. The steep path splits about one-third of the way up the hill. The right path goes to Ananta Cave (Eternity Cave; Cave 3), with its carved figures of athletes, women, elephants and geese carrying flowers. Further along is a series of Jain temples; at the top is another (18th-century) Jain temple.

It is believed that the Khandagiri caves were dug during the rule of the great emperor of the Mahameghavahana Dynasty, King Kharavela. These caves are believed to be built by Jain and Buddhist monks who used these caves as a place to pray and meditate. You can also see that this place is replete with flora and fauna. Animals such as elephants, wild boars, hyena, panther, jackal, fox and bears can be seen as well as home to colourful birds including peacocks, the Indian cuckoo, the Kingfisher and the Indian tree pie. Snakes and lizards are also common inhabitants of this place. The interesting places close to the caves include the Chausathi Jogini Temple, the Kedareshwar Temple, the Swarnajaleswar Temple, the ISKCON Temple, the Chandaka Dampada Wildlife Sanctuary, the Jayadev Vatika, the Museum of Tribal Arts and Artifacts, the Mukteswara Temple, the Ram Mandir, the Lingaraja Temple and the Dhauli Giri Hills. You get fantastic views of the city of Bhubaneshwar from the Dhauli Giri hills.

Dhauli
Situated on the banks of the river Daya, Dhauli lies about 8 km south of Bhubaneshwar. This is the area which is believed where the Kalinga War was fought around 260 BC between the Mauryan Empire led by Ashoka the Great and the Kalinga kingdom. The war was so intense that it is said that Daya’s water had turned red with the bloodshed because of the massacre. This also led to significant change in the beliefs of King Ashoka and he eventually adopted Buddhism.

Ashoka’s responses to this war in form of 11 of Ashoka’s 14 famous edicts, which are essentially rock structures with inscriptions on them were carved onto a rock at Dhauli. Above the edicts, the earliest Buddhist sculpture in Odisha – a carved elephant representing Buddha – emerges from a rock.

Just beyond the rock edicts, each translated into English, is the huge, white Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda), built by Kalinga Nippon Buddha stupa in collaboration with Japan Buddha Sangha in 1972 on a hill to the right. Older Buddhist reliefs are set into the modern structure, and there are great views of the surrounding countryside from the top. The Shanti Stupa is a big white building covered with the dome on top and beautified with intricate carvings on it. These carvings are elephants processions, reclining Buddha, sleeping beauty, emperor Ashoka giving up on war by offering his sword to lord Buddha and many others. There also stand two pillars like Ashokan pillars on the entry with two lion at the top standing as to guard the lord.

Travel Bucket List – India: Goa Part 3

If there was one word to describe South Goa, it would be ‘Laid-back’. The unhurried pace of life, exotic beaches and heritage villages beckon solitude seeking travellers. The pace is unhurried with a soulful and serene vibe as well as great beaches, temples and churches. While North Goa is all about its nightlife, liveliness and crowd of tourists and shoppers, South Goa is known for its clean and isolated beaches, shrines, scenic drives and tranquil environment. So let’s start exploring what South Goa has in store for us.

Butterfly Beach
Butterfly Beach is a hidden gem in South Goa. The most astounding feature of Butterfly Beach is that you can spot millions of butterflies flying over the hilltop blossoms. The golden sands against the turquoise water creates a postcard perfect location with palm trees and scores of butterflies. This spectacular beach is a well known site to spot some playful dolphins, crabs and goldfish. You will have to take a boat ride to reach this beach as the land route demands you to undergo a challenging hike through the forest.

Betalbatim Beach
Popularly known as the Sunset Beach of Goa, this place is your destination for witnessing the most enchanting sunset you will ever see. The clean sands and beautiful surroundings make an immaculate landscape worth visiting. Contrasting with most beaches in Goa surrounded by palm trees, Betalbatim Beach is has a number of pine trees along the shoreline. Due to a number of lovebirds flocking here, it has also earned the nomenclature of being called Lover’s Beach. The beach is a preferred picnic spot among families and doesn’t have a lot of commercial activity going on contributing to the relaxed ambience. Betalbatim Beach, is located between Majorda and Colva beaches and is around 32 km from the capital Panaji.

Agonda Beach
Agonda Beach in Goa is ideal for individuals searching for an energizing time in the water. The cool wind and warm summer sun help the tension and stress from life just melt away. This shoreline is long and desolate, bordered with palms and casuarinas and overwhelmed by an expansive slope toward the south. Located far south Agonda beach is at a distance of 70 km from Panjim.

Mobor Beach
Mobor Beach is vibrant with tourists and always bustling with parties and activities that go one here perpetually. The beach is beautified with natural creations with blooming lilies in ponds, sandy dunes and coconut palms which adorn the landscape. The beach is around 55 km from Panjim.

Hollant Beach
This beach is particularly known for its serenity and landscape and not to be missed when in Goa. Hollant Beach offers wonderful perspectives including the popular southern shorelines of Goa, alongside the foothills of the Western Ghats and is known for its brilliant sunrises. The shoreline looks much all the more enchanting amid the high tide, when the ocean water ascends to converge into the crisp waters of an adjacent stream. It is not too far from Panjim and is at a distance of 27 km from the capital city.

Palolem Beach
Palolem Beach is probably one of the most gorgeous beaches of South Goa. The beach remains packed with shacks, hawkers, restaurants, and eating outlets occupying the one mile long shore in crescent shape. Dolphins are also sighted here, so just keep your fingers crossed to witness this spectacular mammal playing amidst the blue waves of Arabian Sea. Located closer to Karnataka than Panjim, it is at a distance of 70 kilometers from the city of Panaji.

Cansaulim Beach
Unwind here on oceanside early morning and night to appreciate the excellent picturesque beauty that is Cansaulim beach. The shoreline is amazingly spotless and clean with brilliant gold sands. It is less swarmed and not an exceptionally prominent beach in Goa.
Distance from Panaji: It is located at a distance of 26.6 km from Panaji.

Colva Beach
Often addressed as the pride of Salcete, Colva at a distance of about 6kms from Margaon and is one of the most popular beaches in South Goa and attracts a lot of Indian visitors. The beach is an ideal destination to enjoy a range of activities from sunbathing, water sports to other leisure activities. The Colva Beach is also a famous shopping destination where you can explore some colorful clothes, jewelry and other fashion accessories.

Talpona Beach
This beach is popular among tourists looking for an isolated and quiet location to enjoy the beautiful coastline against the magnificent Arabian Sea. The beach of Talpona is covered with pure sand of a golden color and framed with palm trees and pine groves. The sea is relatively calm and quiet here and one can easily enjoy a day with their thoughts. The Talpona beach has small sand dunes and is not visited much by tourists. The peaceful beach is also a resting ground of many birds.

Kakolem Beach
Also called the Tiger Beach, Kakolem Beach is one of the most remote and truly natural beaches in whole Goa. One of the least crowded beaches of Goa where you can relax completely. It is often claimed that this beach is a secret place to shoot tigers but in reality no one can say that they have ever really spotted the King of the jungle here. The beach is mostly lonely and deserted and there isn’t much activity going around. Kakolem Beach is located at a distance of 60 kilometers from the city of Panaji. There is no proper road and only a small path off the main road leads to the beach. There are no buses that travel to this beach. One can reach this beach only by private transport.

Benaulim Beach
A poupluar tourist spot, Benaulim Beach has everything ideal from captivating shorelines, extravagant gleaming sands, superb convenience, to nightlife and late night vibrant parties. Only 5 km from Margaon, this place is popular in south Goa for its delicious seafood.

Our Lady of Remedios Church
Marked with splendid architecture and a serene ambiance, Our Lady of Remedios Church at Betalbatim is an ancient place of worship that traces its origins back to 1630. Surrounded by green lawns, the white exterior of the church offers a soothing sight during the day. During the night, the church looks magnificent as the whole area is illuminated. The church is located in Fatona, Betalbatim and is open from 6 am to 5 pm daily.

Saviour of the World Church
Built in 1586, the Saviour of the World Church is a sight to behold even today. The majestic shrine boasts of being one of Goa’s most gorgeous churches built in the Mannerist Neo-Roman style of architecture. Located in Salcette, Loutolim at a distance of around 10 km from Margao, the church is open every day between 6 am and 7 pm.

St. Alex Church
Built in the year 1597 on the banks of Angoddi Tollem Lake in Curtorim, St. Alex Church is among the oldest chapel churches in the region. An interesting fact about the church is that it was constructed on the site of an ancient Hindu temple, called Ravalnath Temple. If you walk around the church, you can still see the ruins of the temple here. The church is around 6 km from Margao and is open daily from 9 am to 8:30 pm.

Shantadurga Temple
This temple is devoted to goddess “Shantadurga” who is worshiped as the “Goddess of Peace”, and as a mediator between Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. The divine shrine was initially situated at, Cavelossim but during the demolition period of the Portuguese in the mid 15th century, the celestial being was relocated to Kavlem. This ancient temple with its vibrant combination of the maroon, white and peach exemplifies the Indo-Portuguese architectural style giving the temple an enchanting old-charm look. Apart from these, the Nayan Manohar Deepstambh, a five-story lamp tower, is another point of attraction which is beautifully lit during the festivals. The temple is located in Ponda and is open from 5 am to 10 am every day.

Tambdi Surla Mahadev Temple
Built in the 12th century, the temple is is a Shaivite temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, built in the Jain style of architecture. It is considered the only specimen of Kadamba-Yadava architectural style in preserved basalt stone in Goa. The temple has a Shiv Ling which is mounted on a pedestal and, has four withstanding pillars embellished with excellent carvings of elephants. Also, there are finely carved sacred lotus flowers and, intricate carvings designed by skilled craftsmen which add up to the charm of the stone ceiling and, the building. The temple is located near the Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary and is open daily from 7 am till 5:30 pm.

Chandreshwar Bhoothnath Temple
This temple is another one dedicated to Lord Shiva who is worshipped here as the Lord of the Moon. This ancient temple stands atop the Chandranath Hill. If you happen to visit the temple on a full moon night, you can see the Shiva Linga inside the shrine looking resplendent under the moonlight. There’s also the Boothnath Temple nearby which is worth a visit. This temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva where the deity is worshiped as the Lord of the ghosts. Open from 5:30 am till 8:30 pm daily, this temple is located in Paroda in the Quepem taluka.

Naval Aviation Museum
A popular place to visit with children, the museum has a huge exhibition of large machines and artifacts related to the evolution of naval aviation in the country. Here, one can see real Helicopters, Aircraft, Fighter Jets and learn about their history. The museum is a made up of two parts; one is the outdoor large park which has 13 aircraft in total namely, Sea Harrier, HAL Chetak, Westland Sea King and many more such decommissioned aircraft, exhibiting the evolution of the Indian Naval Air Arms and another is the double-storey indoor gallery where you can learn many interesting things about flying, like the aircraft ejection system and life-rafts. The place also has a café (called Cockpit Café) where you can enjoy a tea, a souvenir shop, and a mini theatre where you can catch short movies and documentaries on naval aviation. The Naval Aviation Museum is the only of its kind in Asia. The museum is in Vasco de Gama, near the airport and is open from 9:30 am to 5 pm, on all das except Mondays when it is closed. The entry fee is Rs. 30 per adult and Rs. 10 per child.

Goa Chitra Museum
Go on a journey through the cultural and historical past of Goa through the 4000 plus exhbits at the Goa Chitra Museum. These artifacts map out the lifestyle of the people of Goa in the past and how it changed over time, owing to many historical and cultural factors. The museum is a treasure trove of all sorts of artifacts, ranging from agricultural tools to musical instruments, and even staple food. Needless to say, it is one of the must-visit museums in Goa where you can get a glimpse into the region’s rich and interesting past. Located in Benaulim and open from 9 am to 6 pm daily, you can go to the museum with an entry fee of Rs. 300 per person.

Big Foot Museum
This museum is an off-beat museum established and run privately by an artist named Maendra Alvares. It is an open-air museum that recreates a miniature Goan village of the bygone days. Some of the key highlights of the museum include miniature houses that depict traditional Goan life and culture, a handicraft center that sells Goan artifacts, a bird habitat, a restaurant, rubber plantations, a spice yard, and lot more. The 14-meter high Sant Mirabai sculpture, which apparently is the largest laterite sculpture in the country, is another key attraction of the museum. Located in Loutolim at a distance of about 9 km from Margao, the museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm every day and the entrance fee is Rs 50 for adults and Rs 30 for children.

The Grande Island
Also known as Ilha Grande, this island is a treasure trove of palm trees, jaw-dropping marine life experiences, and extraordinary sunsets. One can indulge in sight-seeing, snorkeling, sea walk, swimming, and many more aqua activities at the island. You can also go dolphin sighting from here which is an amazing experience.

Pequeno Island
Commonly called the Bat Island, this serene island with several picturesque views, is located just a kilometer away from the Baina Beach in Vasco da Gama. The crystal clear water with its marine life attracts the masses. The perfect place to view the stars and have a camfire, this island is the bliss for those seeking solitude.

Bhagwan Mahaveer Wildlife Sanctuary
Lying the westeen ghats, sprawling over an area of 240 km, this wildlife sanctuary came into existence in the year 1999 under the Wildlife Act. The sanctuary has rich flora and fauna which attracts the tourists. One can witness bewitching scenic views and come across numerous varieties of animals like pythons, cobras, slender toris, jungle cats, elephants, avian birds, and many more rare species. One can even hire a jeep to explore every nook and corner of the diverse sanctuary. Located off the national highway 4A at Caranzol, the wildlife sanctuary is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm. The entry fee is Rs. 20 per person for adults; Rs. 10 per person for children; Rs 30 per camera and Rs 150 per video camera.

Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary
Seated in the south-eastern part of Goa, the Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary lies in Verlem, around 46 km from Margao, near a tributary of the Zuari river. Nestled with dense forests which remain evergreen throughout the year, this sanctuary is renowned for varieties of animals like Gaur, Ratufa indica, Tetracerus quadricornis, and leopard. Its famous birds are Malayan night heron, Nilgiri wood pigeon, pied hornbill, grey-headed bulbul, white-bellied treepie and a rufous babbler. The best time to visit this place is from October to March and at this time one can easily spot the rare species of flora and fauna like Black Panther, four horned antelope, and colorful butterflies. Entry to this sanctuary is free and it is open from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm

Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary
Located in Canacona, at a distance of around 58 km from Margao, the Cortigao Wildlife Sanctuary entices you to a world of exotic flora and fauna. It boasts of varied wildlife species, including slender loris, mouse deer, Indian pangolin, Malabar trogon, Malayan bittern, golden-back gliding snake, and many more. One of the prime attractions of the sanctuary is a treetop watchtower overlooking a watering hole. If you climb up the watchtower during dawn or dusk, you can watch many animals visiting the watering hole to quench their thirst. And now, that’s a sight you wouldn’t want to miss in a lifetime. The sanctuary is open from 7 am to 5:30 pm daily and the entry fees are Rs. 5 per adult and Rs. 2 per child.

Dudhsagar Falls
Located in the Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary and Mollem National Park, this picturesque falls surrounded by lush green forests and falling from a height of 1,000 feet or 310 meters, forms the border between Goa and Karnataka. The literal meaning of Dudhsagae is “Sea of Milk”, which is what this waterfall looks like when it is in full glory. The gushing water sprawling down through the tropical forest gives captivating views. If you are an adventure enthusiast then you can even trek to the waterfalls and explore the bewildering paths which lead to it. You can even stay near the waterfall, at the forest guesthouse that is taken care of by the Karnataka Tourism Development Corporation. The falls are open from 9 am to 6 pm and the entry fee is Rs. 20 per person. You can also pay Rs. 400 per person for a jeep drive from Castle Rock to Dudhsagar Falls. At the falls you need to pay Rs. 300 for a normal camera and Rs. 5000 for a professional camera permit.

Bamanbudo Waterfalls
Untouched and unexploited are the words which perfectly describe the Bamanbudo Waterfall. This waterfall flows in the backdrop of serene Amba Ghat. The waterfall is undoubtedly the picture-perfect spot, with water falling down through the lush green hillock. The sound of the water, freshness in the air and, everything beautiful contributes to the significance of the place. This waterfall is located on the main road and one cannot trek to this splendid destination. It is located in
Gordongram and is open 24 hours.

Netravali Bubbling Lake
The sacred water reservoir, Netravati Bubbling Lake is a part of the Gopinath Temple. The astonishing fact about the lake is that it has clean water which keeps on bubbling at different points and bubbles even more if someone starts clapping. The priest who resides there believes that it will create the same bubbling effect if you start enchanting “Om” however, these are just mythological stories and the real fact is it bubbles due to the presence of limestone, carbon dioxide or methane in water. The massive temple of which this lake is a part of, has a huge pedestal in the center of the lake and is frequented by the devotees of Shiva. It exhibits an intrinsic style of pillars carved by the Kadamba-Shilahara craftsmen. This lake is located in Netravali in Vichudrem and is open from 8 am to 6 pm.

Cabo de Rama Fort
This decrypted structure with towers and rustic cannons is counted amongst the oldest forts in Goa. It used to be a well-equipped fort with 21 guns, several military barracks and a chapel but, when the Portuguese left India, the place was abandoned and, later used as the government prison. Now, the fort is housed only by the ruins but is a popular tourist place. A popular legend in the area states that Lord Rama and his wife Sita had stayed at this fort during their exile from Ayodhya. It is said that the fort was named to honor Lord Rama. The Fort also has a church of Santo Antonio which is in great condition and still visited by his followers. The mystical atmosphere, steep cliffs, and majestic views make it a frequently visited place. It is a perfect place for you whether you are an adventure buff, photo fanatic or a nature lover. The fort is in Canacona and is open from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm daily.

Chandor
On the banks of the river Kushavati, Chandor is a sleepy town in South Goa. This destination has made its mark as a significant stop for its collection of Portuguese architecture. Between 6th and 11th century, this village was called Chandrapur and was reckoned as the most spectacular city of the Konkan Coast. Today, Chandor is a small village with important relics dating back to the Portuguese era and a Hindu temple and headless Nandi Bull built in the 11th century. The best way to reach Chandor is by a cab from Margao and the best time to visit is between October to April.

Travel Bucket List – India: Goa Part 2

Now that we have an introduction to Goa, in the next two posts, I will take you in detail through the districts of North Goa and South Goa.

North Goa is one of the two districts that make up the state of Goa. The district is bounded by Sindhudurg district of Maharashtra state to the north and by Belgaum district of Karnataka to the east, by South Goa District to the south, and by the Arabian Sea to the west. Much of today’s North Goa was under the Kingdom of Sawantwadi. Hence these areas were seen as a safe haven for the Hindus who were living under continuous fear of the Portuguese Inquisition. These areas were conquered by Portuguese as part of New Conquest in the late 18th century and then remained with the Portuguese till 1961 when it was annexed by India.

Beaches
North Goa is seen is the more happening and party place of Goa as compared to South Goa. The beaches here are very beautiful and crowded during peak times. Some of the best North Goa beaches include

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Vagator Beach which is a a crescent shape beach offering myriad watersport activities. The stunning red cliffs and cracked rocks surrounding the beach is an Instagram hotspot as are sunsets from this beach. The three day Sunburn Music festival which will take place in 2020 in December is an annual electronic dance music festival. Since its inception, Sunburn has grown to become one of Asia’s largest music events. The beach is bifurcated into two parts; one where you will find the flea market and lots of shacks to eat. Vagator Beach is about 20 kms from Panaji. Ozran Beach is an extension of Vagator Beach, and this secluded beach is a standout amongst the most picturesque Goan beaches. This beach boasts of a postcard perfect view of the coastline. The rocky beach is an ideal spot for picnics where you can enjoy the scenic beauty under the shade of palm trees. Here you can enjoy the sunsets as the sky turns golden from the sundecks outside the beach shacks. One of the attractions on this beach is the rock sculpture which people popularly call the Shiva Face which was carved by one of the tourists.

Nesting between the Aravalli hills, Anjuna beach is among the cleanest beaches in Goa. The hippies were the first people to come here in the 1950s and since then Anjuna Beach is a hotspot in Goa for local and international tourists. Anjuna Beach grows on you as you take a stroll along the glowing white sands and enjoy the sight of gently swaying palms in front of you. This beach is also famous for its Wednesday Flea Markets where you can shop for souvenirs, knick-knacks, funcky jewellery, beachwear, sarongs, traditional handicrafts etc. The market is located in the southern end of the beach where there are also several food stalls, body piercing centers, live music, and other entertainment activities in and around the market. The market is open only from October to May, from 8 am to 8 pm, so plan your visit accordingly if you want to enjoy the market. The beach is around 22 km north of Panaji and lies between Vagator and Calangute beaches.

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Named the ‘Queen of Beaches’, the sandy Calangute Beach is the perfect blend of adventure and beauty. The beach ticks all the boxes for a fun day, be it shopping, soaking in the picturequese sights or taking part in adventure water sports. This beach is often crowded with people swelling towards the sea, lazing around, taking sunbath and children making sand castles. Another spectacular features of Calangute Beach is its sunsets and sunrise. Calangute beach is about 16 km north of Panjim.

The scintillating Sinquerim Beach is an excellent shoreline that has a fabulous extend of sand. It is situated at the north of the well known shorelines like Baga, Calangute and Candolim. It is a perfect place for swimming and one ought not to miss going to this shoreline when vacationing in Goa to enjoy the beach activities. The beach offers the best opportunities to try water sports in Goa like scuba diving, water-skiing, windsurfing and much more. This beach also has some amazing night clubs and restuarants and is located about 14 km north of Panaji.

A calm and peaceful beach, Candolim Beach has no shops, restaurants or any commercial activity. Scrubs covered dunes at the back is the major attraction. Tranquil ambiance, thrilling water sports, and an enchanting nightlife make Candolim the perfect spot for honeymooners. Don’t forget to try a dolphin sighting trip and see if you spot this elusive yet friendly creature.

Another secluded beach known for its beauty and tranquillity, Arambol Beach , also known locally as Harmal Beach, is a rocky and sandy beach giving out a bohemian vibe. This beach is counted among the less-crowded beaches in Goa, which makes it ideal for you to spend some romantic moments with your special someone and indulge in some amazing water-based activities. You can even shop for knick-knacks and junk jewelry from the small shops lining the beach or have a drink or two at one of the shacks surrounding the beach. The beach is 35 km north of Panaji, close to the Maharashtra-Goa border.

Well known for it’s white sands, clear water and lines of palm trees that line the shoreline, Mandrem Beach is one of the less well known North Goa beaches. Visit this place during the high tides because that is when its beauty is at its peak. This beach is snuggled between Ashvem and Arambol beaches and lies around 20 km north of Panjim.

Morjim Beach is located in what is locally known as Little Russia, so expect to see many Russians expats here. This beach is the nesting and hatching habitat of the Olive Ridley Sea Turtle, so is an amazing place to just chill, relax and unwind as this beach is a protected area. If you want to see the turtles come here to nest and return to the ocean, come between September to April, but do take note of the exact dates as environmentalists say the nesting season has become later in the last few years.

Miramar Beach is famed for its alluring palm trees and lies close to the confluence point of the Mandovi river and the Arabian Sea. This beach is just 3 km south of Panjim city centre and lies between Panaji and Dona Paula.

Also known as Shiridon, the coarse sand Siridao Beach is famed as the “Shell Collectors Beach” and lies at the mouth of the Zuari river. Shell collectors can find the most unique shells and a wide range of oysters and pearl shells as well as some mysterious caves nearby.

Temples
When you think of Goa, temples are not what comes to your mind, but there are many temples in Goa with rich history and culture. Some of the best temples in Goa are:

One of the important temples of North Goa, the Temple of Bogdeshwara is an exquisite structure and is a masterpiece in its own right. Located in the verdant greenery, the temple is dedicated to Kanakeshwar Baba or Bodgeshwar, also known as Bongini. In complete contrast to the hip and happening façade of North Goa, this small shrine exudes tranquility and is an ideal place to spend a few hours soaking in the serene vibes. This temple is famous for fulfilling the desires of its devotees and evry year, thousands of people visit this temple to get their prayers heard. The annual fair called ‘Zatra’ is held at the temple during the month of December or January. The temple is located in Mapusa, on the Calangute-Mapusa road, about 12 kms from Panaji. The temple is open from 6 am to 8 pm daily.

Located in Mangeshi village, about 22 km from Panjam, the 450-year old Mangeshi Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is one of the largest and most frequently visited temples in Goa. The temple is built in the Goan temple architecture style consisting of several domes, pilasters and balustrades. There is a prominent Nandi Bull and the temple has a unquie Deepastambha which is a seven storey octagonal lamp tower, painted white with golden arches inside the temple complex. When the deepstambha is illuminated at night, the sight is simple awe inspiring. The temple also has a magnificent water tank, which is believed to be the oldest part of the temple. The temple is open from 6 am to 10 pm.

The village of Bandode or Bandivade is the location of a number of temples among which is the large and beautiful temple of Goddess Mahalaxmi. The temple of Goddess Mahalaxmi has been in existence since at least the year 1413, when information about the rituals of the temple is found on stone plaques carved during the reign of Nanjan Gosavi Pratihast over Goa. As is the case with most Hindu deities in Goa, the idol of Mahalaxmi from this temple was also smuggled away in the middle of the night to avoid persecution by the Portuguese in the sixteenth century. Adorned with a pillared hall and a silver arched doorway, the temple features an idol of Goddess Lakshmi crafted out of black stone. Adding to the beauty of the temple are twenty-four wooden panels displaying scenes from the Bhagavata Purana. The temple is open from 6:30 am to 8:30 pm every day.

Forts
Because of the more than four centuries of Portuguese rule in Goa, there are many interesting and architecturally forts which have stood as sentinels over the centuries.

One of the most famous of Goa forts, Fort Aguada is located at the mouth of the river Mandovi. The fort offers gorgeous views of the Arabian Sea. This beautiful fortress constructed in 1612, also boasts of a four-storeyed Portuguese lighthouse, the oldest one of its kind in Asia, which has beautiful sweeping views of the sea and the nearby Aguada beach from a height. Don’t miss the series of prison cells in the fort. Fort Aguada is so large it sweeps along the entire peninsula of the southern tip of Bardez. It is one of the best places to visit in north Goa during the monsoons. The fort is free to enter and is open from 10 am to 5:30 pm.

Dating back to 1717, the Chapora Fort overlooks the dazzling Vagator Beach, Morjim Beach, Ozran Beach and the mouth of the Chapora river. The Portuguese built this fort with the purpose of keeping a check over the Hindu raiders. This place, which is partly in ruins is a nice photography spot due to the sweeping views it offers. There are also two tunnels that Portuguese constructed to escape in case of an emergency in the fort. The fort is open from 9:30 am to 5:30 pm daily.

The most well-preserved of forts In Goa and standing on a hilltop, the Reis Magos Fort was constructed by Afonso de Noronha, a Portuguese Viceroy between 1551 and 1554. The fort is located on the hill onlooking the magnificent Reis Magos Church, at the merging point of the Mandovi river. From serving as a residence for viceroys and other significant personalities to being a prison and then lying as an abandoned fort, Reis Magos Fort has seen many chapters of history unfold within its walls. Today, the fort serves as a cultural center and draws in a large number of tourists. The fort is located in Bardez and is open from 9:30 am to 5 pm on all days except Mondays when it is closed.

Chuches and Basilicas
The Portugese occupation of Goa means that there are many churches in the state, some of which are very famous and are on every tourist’s itinerary.

The Basilica of Bom Jesus needs no introduction as it is one of the most photographed places in Goa. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Basilica, dating back over four centuries, is characterized by baroque architecture and fine detailing, carved from basalt embellishments, it is one of the richest facades in Goa. The Basilica of Bom Jesus is most famous for holding the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier. The basilica also has a collection of paintings related to the life of the St. Xavier and relics of other saints such as Jesuit Rudolf Acquaviva and Antoni Francisci. The church is open from 9 am to 6:30 pm Mondays to Saturdays and from 10 am to 6:30 pm on Sundays.

Marked by its spectacular double flight of steps zigzagging its way upward, the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception which is located on a hillside, overlooking the city of Panjim, boasts of a majestic structure. It houses the ancient bell that was once a part of the Church of Our Lady of Grace. It is said to be the second largest bell of its kind in Goa. The church is open everyday between 9 am to 12:30 pm and from 3:30 to 7:30 pm.

The Chapel of St. Catherine exhibits a simple renaissance style architecture, but it has immense historical significance. This edifice owes its origin to the Portuguese general Afonso de Albuquerque, who commissioned its construction in 1510 to commemorate his victorious march into the city. Located in Taleigao, the chapel is open daily from 6 am to 6 pm.

Housing the the miraculous statue of Mae de Deus which brought the church back to life post its ruin state, the Church of Mae De Deus is a bright white building with neo-gothic architecture is so peaceful, you will not feel the time time spent here. With imposing interiors and carved ornamentation on ceiling and walls, the church is a nice place to spend an afternoon peacefully. It is located in Saligao and is openevery day from 9 am to 12:30 pm and then again from 3 to 5 pm.

Museums, Casinos and Islands
Goa is much more than beaches, temples, forts and churches. Below are some of the other interesting activities you can do in North Goa.

The Goa State Museum is a treasure trove of more than 8000 artifacts and antiques depicting the glorious past of Goa. Of all museums in Goa, this one exhibits items pertaining to religious expression, history of printing in the state, lottery printing, cultural anthropology, contemporary and Christian art, furniture, sculptures as well as information on Goa’s struggle for freedom. There are also screenings of short videos of various cultural, heritage and anthropological facts about Goa. The museum is open from 10 am to 6 pm, Monday to Friday.

If you are fascinated by the architectural beauty of Goa, you must visit the Houses of Goa Museum. Unlike other museums in Goa, this museum offers a peek into the evolution of houses in Goa and its surrounding areas. Interestingly, the museum itself is shaped like a ship and stands right in the middle of the road. The museum is located in Torda, Salvador Do Mundo and is open from 10 am to 7:30 pm. It is closed on Mondays. The entry fee is Rs 100 for adults and Rs. 25 for children.


Christianity has played an undeniable role in the history and culture of Goa and the Museum of Christian Art is where you can get a glimpse into this rich history. The museum showcases many relics that are as old as the Portuguese invasion of the region. From statues and furniture to ivory, paintings, and precious metals, you will find a wide range of interesting exhibits here. Located in old Goa or Velha Goa, the museum is closed on Sundays and open from 9:30 am to 5 pm. Entry fee is Rs 30 per person.

Located in Calangute beach, Casino Palms is the most famous casino in Goa. Try your luck playing roulette and other games. The casino is open 24 hours daily. There is also a bar and plush lounges inside the casino to enjoy the nightlife.

Chorao Island’s name is is from Sanskrit which means ‘Stunning Precious Stone’. The largest island in Goa, it is located just three km from Panaji and has grown from a settlement for Portuguese noblemen to a quaint island with churches and old villas.

Cascading from the height of 50 m or 24 feet, the Harvalem Waterfalls is one of the those places where you can have a relaxing picnic. These falls make a plunge pool at the bottom where one can swim in and relax with cold waters. A temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is nearby along with a well-maintained park where one can just sit and observe the deep beauty it possesses. If you plan to visit this waterfalls, try to reach right after the monsoon as the water gushes in the highest amount during the time making it beautiful more than ever. The falls are located about 8 km from the town of Bicholim, which is around 25 km from Panjim and is open daily between 9 am and 6 pm.

This was all about North Goa. In the next blog post, we will go down south and see what South Goa has to offer.