Two Wings of a Nightingale: Persian Soul, Islamic Heart – Jill Worrall
Iran is probably the most misunderstood country on Earth, and one of the most fascinating. Few people in the West know anything about Iranian people beyond their current politics and religion. In this book, award-winning travel writer Jill Worrall, with her friend Reza Mirkhalaf, a leading tour manager from Tehran, describe an Iran the world has forgotten about. Using the threads of Iran’s silk road heritage as a basis for a road trip travelogue, they visit places both ancient and modern, many rarely written about by westerners. Jill’s vivid observations are complemented by Reza’s expert knowledge of Iran’s history, religion, culture and architecture.
During their journey, Jill and Reza explore the caravanserai that were once a vital part of the silk routes that once crossed Persia, while also encountering many ordinary Iranians. The result is a picture of Iran that offers a detailed insight into the landscapes, landmarks and people of the country at a grassroots level. The title reflects the dual nature o Iranian life and also the fact Jill and Reza are two people of different sexes, different religions and cultures travelling together, yet keeping their travels harmoniously on course. Together they visit the holiest city in Iran, Mashhad, paddle in the Persian Gulf, pass close by the borders of both Afghanistan and Iraq, stay with local families, play in the snow near Mt Ararat, pray in mosques, read poetry in Shiraz and eat ice creams in Isfahan.
After Chandigarh and Sirhind, using Chandigarh as a base, let’s travel around 55 km northwest to Rupnagar and then 75 km southwest of Chandigarh to Patiala.
Rupnagar Formerly known as Ropar, Rupnagar is also known as one of the bigger sites belonging to the Indus Valley Civilization. The ancient town of Rupnagar is said to have been named by a Gujjar Raja called Rokeshar, who ruled during the 11th century and named it after his son Rupsen. Situated close to the state border, on the eastern side, Rupnagar is wedged between the Sutlej river and the Shivalik range.
Rupnagar is one of the Indus Valley sites along the Ghaggar-Hakra beds. There is an archaeological museum in the city which was opened in the year 1998 for general public. The museum exhibits the archaeological remains of excavated site in the city, the first Harappan site of Independent India. These excavations reveal a cultural sequence from Harappan to medieval times. Some of the important exhibits include antiquities of Harappan times, gold coins of Chandragupta and copper and bronze implements. There are many historical and religious places in Rupnagar, including gurdwaras such as Gurudwara Bhhatha Sahib and Gurudwara Tibbi Sahib.
Anandpur Sahib, which is believed to have been founded by Guru Teg Bahadur, is situated near the town. The Gurudwara Keshgarh Sahib at the town is considered as the birthplace of the Khalsa and is counted as one of the five holy seats of Sikhism. Because of this, Rupnagar has immense religious significance for Sikhs. The Holla Mohalla festival is celebrated with fanfare in this town. The most important of the complex of shrines at Sri Anandpur Sahib is Gurudwara Keshgarh Sahib, which stands on the place where the “Khalsa” was born. It is regarded as one of the five sacred “Takhats” or seats of Sikh religion and is built on the hillock. Climbing up some steps, Darshani Deorhi has to be crossed first, then comes the large open marbled quadrangle at the end of which steps lead up to the central shrine. In the centre of the hall is a room displaying twelve weapons used by Guru Gobind Singh in battle. There is an imposing dome on the hall with a golden kalas on the top. It was here in 1699, on the Baisakhi day or April 13, the tenth master, Guru Gobind Singh Ji created the Khalsa by baptising five beloved Sikhs known as the “Panj Piaras”. At the behest of the Guru, thousands of people had assembled on the hill where now Gurudwara Keshgarh Sahib stands. The Guru appeared before the congregation with a naked sword in his hand and told that his thirsty sword demanded the life of a volunteer. A deep hush fell over the crowd. Ultimately, Daya Ram, a Khatri of Lahore came forward. The Guru took him to a tent and returned with his sword with blood. He asked for another head and Dharam Dass, a Jat from Delhi offered himself. Three more similar calls brought out Mohakam Chand, a washerman of Dwarka, Sahib Chand, a barber from Bidar and Himmat Rai, a water carrier from Jagan Nath Puri. From the tent in which these five followers had been taken, Guru Gobind Singh brought out the five Sikhs dressed in new clothes, blue turbaned with loose long yellow shirts, a waist band round their waists, with sorts of Knicker-bockers worn as underwears and with swords dangling by their sides. It was an inspiring sight. The Guru told the congregation that these were his Five Beloved Sikhs or Panj Payaras, and he baptised them by offering them Amrit or the nectar of immortality he had prepared by dissolving sugar blocks or Patasa in water sanctifying the sweetened water by stirring it with double edged sword, khanda and reciting the holy verses. The Guru himself took the Amrit from the Panj Payaras, thus removing the distinction between himself and followers. On that day, Guru Gobind Rai became Guru Gobind Singh. The Panj Payaras were enjoined to embrace the five symbols of the new Sikh faith, Kes or unshorn hair, Kangha or comb, Kara or steel bracelet, Kachha or short drawer and Kirpan or sword. The ceremony gave the followers of the Guru, a new identity which was to prepare the Sikhs for their struggle against the Mughal State and influence the future of the country. One of the biggest festivals celebrated in this city is the Holla Mohalla, at the Anandpur Sahib, every year, after Holi. This three-day fair is attended by Sikh devotees from all across the country. On the last day, Nihangs (Sikh warriors) dressed in traditional attire and carrying traditional weapons, walk towards the Holgarh Fort and display tent pegging, riding and sword wielding on the sand-clad bed of Charan Ganga.
The Virasat-e-Khalsa, formerly known as the Khalsa Heritage Memorial Complex is a museum located at Anandpur Sahib complex. The museum gives an insight to the events that took place in Punjab five hundred years ago which gave birth to Sikhism and finally the Khalsa Panth. The museum throws light on the vision of the great Gurus, the eternal message of peace and brotherhood which they delivered to the whole mankind and the rich culture and heritage of Punjab. The museum is intended to commemorate 500 years of Sikh history and the 300th anniversary of the Khalsa, the scriptures written by the 10th and last Guru Sh. Guru Gobind Singh Ji founder of modern Sikhism. The Heritage Complex is inspired by the rich natural and architectural heritage of Sri Anandpur Sahib, while also drawing heavily from Sikh and regional architecture. Contrary to the tradition of domes which crown the sacred Sikh sites, the roofs of the Museum are concave-shaped receptors facing the sky. Sheathed in stainless steel, they reflect the sun’s light towards the Gurdwara and the Fort.
Situated on the banks of Sirhind Canal, the Gurudwara Chamkaur Sahib is located around 16 km from Rupnagar. Guru Gobind Singh and his two elder sons and about 40 followers had come to this place from Kotla Nihang with his pursuers close on his heels.They came to the garden said to be belonging to Raja Bidhi Chand, where now Gurudwara Damdama Sahib stands.There are several Gurudwaras at this place marking the vistis and halts of Guru Gobind Singh. Gurudwara Katalgarh Sahib also known as Gurudwara Shahidganj. Occupying a unique place among all the Gurudwaras located at Chamkaur Sahib, it is built at the site where Baba Ajit Singh and Baba Jhujhar Singh, elder sons of Guru along with his 37 followers fell fighting against the Mughal Army.
The Archaeological Museum in Rupnagar is situated on the banks of the Sutlej River. Opened to public in the year 1998, the museum houses the archaeological remains of excavated site near Ropar, the first Harappan site excavated in India after partition. The excavation revealed a cultural sequence from Harappan to medieval times. Important exhibits include antiquities of Harappan times, Painted Grey ware culture, Saka, Kushana, Gupta times such as Vina Vadini or a lady playing on the veena, steatite seal, copper and bronze implements, ring stone, yakshi image, gold coins of Chandragupta. Visitors can also have a glimpse of important protected monuments of Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh and World Heritage monuments. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm. Open on all days of the week, the museum is closed on Fridays and has an entrance fee of INR 5 with children up to the age of 15 getting free entrance.
Situated at the feet of the Shiwalik Hills, Nangal at a distance of 60 km from Rupnagar, is surrounded by beautiful environment of hills, river and canals and is an important tourist centre. It is divided into two parts, Nangal Township and Naya Nangal. The town was named Nangal by acquiring the lands of three villages viz. Nangal Nikku, Hambewal and Dubheta and gained importance with the starting of the construction of Bhakra Dam on Satluj river in November, 1955. Apart from Bhakra Dam, the Nangal Dam, Nangal Hydel Channel, Ganguwal and Kotla Power Houses are located here. Overlooking the Nangal lake, Gurudwara Vibhour Sahib presents a majestic view. Guru Gobind Singh is said to have mediated at this place. The Nangal lake is a beautiful artificial lake which is 6 Km long shaped by the Nangal dam. About 40,000 migratory birds fly here in winters and this lake is a heavenly paradise for bird lovers.
The Ropar Wetland, also named Ropar Lake, is a man-made freshwater riverine and lacustrine wetland. The area is biologically diverse and it is an important ecological zone is located in the Shivalik foothills of the Lower Himalayas and was created in 1952 on the Sutlej River. It was built by building a head regulator to store and divert water for beneficial uses of irrigation, drinking and industrial water supply. The endangered turtle Chitra indica and the threatened snake Python molurus, as per IUCN Red List, are reported to be resident in the wetland. The wetland once was a popular tourist attraction for bird watching and boating. A tourism complex called the ‘Pinccasia’ was located within the wetland boundary, which was run by the Punjab Tourism Development Corporation. A boat club was also functioning. However, today, only a dilapidated building of tourist bungalow exists, the boating bay is damaged and the garden is also unkept.
Patiala About 85 km southwest of Rupnagar and about 73 km southwest of Chandigarh lies the fourth largest city in Punjab, the city of Patiala which is located around the Qila Mubarak or the ‘Fortunate Castle’ constructed by the Sidhu Jat chieftain Ala Singh, who founded the royal dynasty of Patiala State in 1763, and after whom the city is named. The word ‘Patiala’ comes from the roots pati and ala, the former is Urdu for a “strip of land” and ‘ala’ comes from the name of the founder of the city, Ala Singh. So, ‘Patiala’ can be translated into English to mean ‘the land of Ala’.
Patiala state was established in 1763 by Ala Singh, who laid the foundation of the Patiala fort known as Qila Mubarak, around which the present city of Patiala is built. After the Third Battle of Panipat in 1761 in which the Marathas were defeated by the Afghans, the writ of the Afghans prevailed throughout Punjab. It is at this stage that the rulers of Patiala began to acquire ensigns of royalty. The Patiala state saw more than forty years of a ceaseless power struggle with the Afghan Durrani Empire, Maratha Empire and the Sikh Empire of Lahore. In 1808, the Raja of Patiala entered into a treaty with the British against the Sikh ruler Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore in 1808, thus becoming collaborator in the grand empire building process by the British in, the sub-continent of India. Patiala became a 17-guns salute state during the British Raj. The city of Patiala was designed and developed according to a plan akin to that of temple architecture, the first settlers of Patiala being the Hindus of Sirhind, who opened their business establishments outside the Darshani Gate.
The Qila Mubarak complex is a rampart fort cum palace built in Sikh palace architectural style- a derivative of Mughal and Rajput style of architecture in India. It was built under the patronage of Maharaja Ala Singh in 1764. The whole complex comprises of various sections including the Ran Baas or the guest house, the Darbar Hall, the Qila Androon, with an underground sewerage system within the Qila, and the Qila Bahadurgah.
Located in Moti Bagh, the Moti Bagh Palace is an ancient palace that is simply magnificent. Originally built in the 1840s by the Maharaja of Patiala, the premises of the palace were expanded in 1920 under the rule of Maharaja Bhupinder Singh. Boasting of striking architecture with chhatris and jharokas, and exuding old world charm, it is home to 15 dining halls. Lately, a part of the palace has been converted into a museum and the remaining part into the National Institute of Sports.
Literally meaning the Palace of Mirrors, the Sheesh Mahal was built as a part of the Old Moti Bagh Palace in the 19th century. There are a lot of frescoes, as well as is home to many relics of art and culture as well as several paintings done in the Rajput and Kangra styles, belonging to the 20th century, mostly made under the reign of Maharaja Narinder Singh. There is also an artificial lake in front of this palace along with a hanging bridge called Lakshman Jhula which was fashioned after the Lakshman Jhula of Haridwar. The museum which is located along with the palace has the largest collection of medals from across the world.
The Baradari Gardens, located north of the pld Patiala city and close to the Sheranwala Gate was built during the reign of Maharaja Rajinder Singh. It houses a lot of rare trees, shrubs and flowers along with some graceful colonial buildings. There is also a statue of Maharaja Rajinder Singh in the garden. This was built as a royal residence with cricket stadium, a skating rink and the Rajinder Kothi, which used to be a small palace and has now been turned into a heritage hotel.
The Bahadurgarh Fort is an ancient historical fort which was constructed in 1658 and originally built by Nawab Saif Khan. It was later renovated and remodelled by Maharaja Karam Singh in 1837 and sprawls over an area of 21 sq km. The fort is named after the ninth Sikh Guru – Guru Tegh Bahadur. Boasting of two ramparts and a moat, this magnificent structure is built in a circular shape with imposing and impregnable walls. Two of the circular battlement grounds are surrounded by a 25 feet deep and a 58 feet wide moat to make it difficult for the enemies to break through. Beside a Gurudwara in the fort complex that goes by the name of Gurudwara Sahib Patshai Navin, there is also a mosque setting a perfect example of peaceful coexistence. In addition to being a popular tourist attraction, the fort premises are currently used for the Punjab Police Commando Training School.
The Gurudwara Dukh Niwaran Sahib is one of the most popular gurudwaras in because it’s waters are said to have curative properties. According to the HukamNama, it is believed that anyone with ailments or illnesses who takes a dip in the pond with complete devotion and attention can be fully cured. Visitors can take part in a lot of activities apart from praying here such as volunteering to help feed people or keeping the Gurdwara clean. A number of people visit this Gurdwara, not only on special occasions such as Basant Panchmi, which was the day when Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji arrived at this place, Gurunanak Jayanti or Lohri but this place is also often visited by newly-wed couples and new-borns.
The Kali Devi Mandir at Patiala was built by the Maharaja of Patiala, Bhupinder Singh, in 1936, who was inspired to build the temple and bring the idol of Goddess Kali and the “paawan jyoti” or the “sacred fire” from Bengal to Patiala. Situated opposite the Baradari Garden, the temple, made entirely of white marble, houses a six-foot-tall idol of Goddess Kali made of black stone and standing erect in a gold-plated sanctum. The idol is seen in her popular image – bloodshot eyes, open mouth and a drooping tongue, with a bent sword and a human head in her hand. The walls of the temples are adorned with beautiful murals, inscriptions and frescoes, telling the tales of Hindu mythology and stories from Hindu epics. Because of its architectural finesse, the temple has been declared a national monument. Interestingly, an older temple to a Hindu deity Raj Rajeshwari also stands in the middle of the temple complex.
Located 5 kms from Patiala city, the Bir Moti Bagh Wildlife Sanctuary is spread over 654 hectares of land and was once the royal family’s prized hunting reserves. The Bir area was declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1952 and today, it is home to a plethora of indigenous wildlife, notably the chital, hog deer, peafowl, myna, partridge, etc. There is also a separate deer park within the Sanctuary. The best time to visit the Sanctuary is during the winter months, between October and January when migratory birds can be spotted.
We kick off our visit to the fertile Punjab starting from it’s capital of Chandigarh and will make our way westwards, culminating in Punjab’s holiest city of Amritsar. On the way, let’s see what delights the state has in store for us.
Chandigarh A unique planned city, Chandigarh serves as the capital to the two neighbouring states of Punjab and Haryana. The city is unique as it is not a part of either of the two states but is governed directly by the Union Government. The city, also called a Tricity, is bordered by Punjab to the north, west and south, and by the state of Haryana to the east and includes Chandigarh, Panchkula in Haryana and Kharar, Kurali, Mohali and Zirakpur in Punjab. Chandigarh is located approximately at the mid-point distance between New Delhi and Amritsar.
It was one of the early planned cities in post-independence India and is internationally known for its architecture and urban design. The master plan of the city was prepared by Swiss-French architect Le Corbusier. A 2015 article published by BBC named Chandigarh as one of the few master-planned cities in the world to have succeeded in terms of combining monumental architecture, cultural growth, and modernization. Chandigarh’s Capitol Complex, which include the Punjab and Haryana High Court, Punjab and Haryana Secretariat and Punjab and Haryana Assembly along with monuments Open hand, Martyrs Memorial, Geometric Hill and Tower of Shadow and the Rock Garden was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in July 2016. Not only is the city one with one of the highest per capita incomes, it is also is the cleanest in India and was ranked the happiest city in India by LG Electronics in 2015.
The name Chandigarh is a compound of Chandi and Garh of which Chandi refers to the Hindu goddess Chandi and Garh means fortress. The name is derived from Chandi Mandir, an ancient temple devoted to the Hindu Goddess Chandi, near the city in the Panchkula district.
Chandigarh was the dream city of India’s first Prime Minister, Jawaharlal Nehru. After partition in 1947, Punjab was divided into two provinces, East Punjab in India with mostly Sikhs and Hindus and West Punjab in Pakistan with mostly Muslims. The Indian Punjab required a new capital because the former capital, Lahore, had become part of Pakistan after partition. In 1949 the American planner and architect Albert Mayer was tasked to design a new city to be called “Chandigarh”, which was to be from about fifty Puadhi-speaking villages in the then-state of Punjab.Shimla was the temporary capital of Punjab until Chandigarh was completed in 1960.
Albert Mayer developed a superblock-based city interspersed with green spaces which with an emphasis on cellular neighborhoods and traffic segregation taking advantage of natural land characteristics which promoted proper drainage. Mayer stopped work after his architect-partner Matthew Nowicki died in a plane crash in 1950, after which Le Corbusier was recruited to succeed Mayer and Nowicki, who enlisted many elements of Mayer’s original plan without attributing them to him. Le Corbusier designed many administration buildings, including the High Court, the Palace of Assembly, and the Secretariat Building as well as the general layout of the city, dividing it into sectors. Chandigarh hosts the largest of Le Corbusier’s many Open Hand sculptures, standing 26 metres high. The Open Hand (La Main Ouverte) is a recurring motif in Le Corbusier’s architecture, a sign for him of “peace and reconciliation. It is open to give and open to receive”, representing what Le Corbusier called the “Second Machine Age”. When the new state of Haryana was formed on 1 November 1966 out of the eastern portion of Punjab, the western portion was called Punjab and Chandigarh, which was located on the border of both states was a bone of contention between both states to become their capital. However, the city was declared a union territory to serve as capital of both states.
Rose Garden: Also known as the Zakir Hussain Rose Garden after the former President of India, this garden is a blooming exhibit that showcases around 825 varieties of flowers and about 32,500 varieties of trees and medicinal shrubs spread over 30 acres. Built in 1967, it is the largest garden of its kind in Asia. The Rose Garden is a sight to behold when the flowers are in their full bloom in the months of February and March. You will need around 2 hours to enjoy this serene place which is open from 6 am to 10 pm. The entrance fee for the garden is INR 50 per person, including children.
Rock Garden: A massive massive open-air exhibition hall that displays sculptures made from urban and industrial wastes that have been designed and executed by Nek Chand, the Rock Garden is located between Sukhna Lake and the Capitol Building and is a must-visit place when you visit the city! Also known as Nek Chand’s Rock Garden, this massive 40-acre garden is a colourful mosaic of art pieces and sculptures which was built in the year 1957 by Nek Chand single-handedly in his spare time and has become a long-standing symbol of imagination and novelty in the city. The exhibition area of Rock Garden is divided into three different phases that have different types of installations and embellishments in them. Each phase deals with a different type of installations and walking through them is a true delight. The Rock Garden is open from 9 am to 7 pm in summer in the months of April to September and from 9 am to 6 pm during the winter months of October to March. Keep aside at least half a day to walk around and check out the place. Adults will need to pay INR 5 and children will pay INR 3 to enter the Rock Garden.
Sukhna Lake: Nestled at the foot of Shivalik Hills and stretching for a distance of 3 sq km, Sukhna Lake is a man-made lake and the only one of its kind created in 1958 by damming the seasonal Sukhna Choe or stream that flows down the Shivalik Hills. With its pristine blue water, the lake serves as a perfect location for a morning jog or walk where one can also enjoy the fresh air. Le Corbusier claimed the lake would be the centre of wellness pursuits for the residents. The promenade in front of the lake is a local favourite and the lake has one of the longest rowing channels in the country which hosts the Asian Rowing Championships. The best way to enjoy Sukhna Lake is to go on a lazy boating tour by hiring a boat, which would cost between INR 50 – INR 100. The lake is also home to several species of fish and migratory birds such as the Siberian duck and cranes. Bound by a golf course and the famous Rose Garden, the lake offers a mesmerizing escape at all times of the day. Sukhna Lake is open on all days of the week between 5 am to 9 pm and there is no entry fee to access the lake.
Pinjore Gardens: A beautiful Mughal Garden from the 17th century, Pinjore Gardens is a massice 100 acre garden located east of Chandigarh in Pinjore, in the district of Panchkula in Haryana. Also known as the Yadvinder Garden, the garden has well-maintained greenery, refreshing fountains and soothing water bodies. Pinjore Gardens are a good illustration of terrace gardens in India. During the festival of Baisakhi, between April and June, the Garden serves as the venue of the annual Mango Festival. It also houses a mini zoo, an area dedicated to historic places, a serene Japanese garden, a splendid nursery and some areas that serve as picnic spots. The best time to explore the gardens is in the evening and will take you around three hours to cover, as it is lit up after sunset making it beautiful. Entry fee for the garden is INR 20 and the garden is open from 7 am to 10 pm.
Chandigarh Botanical Gardens: Comprising of two gardens, the Chandigarh Botanical Gardens is spread across the city, one in the Punjab University Campus and the other between Sukhna Lake and the Rock Garden in Sector 1. The gardens are adorned by a huge variety of systematically arranged plant species that are both exotic and evergreen. The botanical gardens are open from 6 am to 10 pm daily.
Garden of Silence: Located in Bhagwanpura, with the Shivalik Range as a backdrop, the Garden of Silence is a meditative space which houses a massive idol of Buddha. The garden swears by its name and it offers a peaceful and tranquil atmosphere for meditation amidst lush green surroundings. Open from 6 am to 10 pm, the garden does not have any entry fee and is a beautiful pause in a hectic holiday.
Cactus Garden: Spread over a vast area of seven acres, the Cactus Garden is also known as National Cactus and Succulent Botanical Garden and Research Centre and was established to preserve and protect the dying species of cactus. Currently, the garden boasts of housing around 500 varieties of cacti. The gardens are open from 9 am to 1 pm and then again between 3 to 6 pm in the evening with an entry fee of INR 10 per person.
Chattbir Zoo: Also known as the Mahendra Choudhary Zoological Park, the Chattbir Zoo is a zoological park in Zikarpur south of Chandigarh in the state of Punjab. The park is home to a vast variety of animals, birds and reptiles. Sprawling over an expansive 202 acres of land, the zoo offers an open enclosure to the animals to retain their natural habitat environment. The highlight of the zoo is Royal Bengal Tiger. The entry fee for adults, which means anyone above 12 years of age is INR 20 and for children below the age of 12, it is INR 5. You can also use a battery operated vehicle or the tiger safari for INR 50. The Zoo is open from 9 am to 5 pm, all days of the week, except Mondays.
Other Gardens: Other than the Rose Gardens, the Botanical Gardens and the Cactus Garden, the city is also home to numerous interesting open spaces and gardens. This includes the Shanti Kunj, a garden fed by a natural stream that divides it into five blooming islands, the Terraced Gardens, home to a myriad of colourful and vibrant flowers, covering 10 acres and full of lush greenery and scenic views. There is also the Bougainvillea Garden, with its annual bougainvillea festival and with over 50 varieties of bougainvillea on display, spread over 20 acres. The Garden of Fragrance as the name suggests is famous for its fragrant varieties of plants and beautiful landscapes while the Leisure Valley is an eight-kilometre long linear stretch that covers a large part of Chandigarh and is known as ‘the lungs of the city’. The Hisbiscus Garden on the other hand, houses over 40 varieties of hibiscus shrubs over an eight acre expanse and the Topiary Park is a children’s park with excellent play facilities. The Japanese Garden is a well-groomed, beautifully maintained park which houses a park, water bodies, pagoda towers, waterfalls, meditation centres, buddha idol among other structures and has two phases interconnected by an underground tunnel which is adorned with beautiful Japanese paintings. The Butterfly Park is a well maintained garden hosuing over 35 species of butterflies and more and has been designed to facilitate an ideal environment for the breeding of butterflies. One of Chandigarh’s newest gardens is the Garden of Palms which boasts of 21 different types of palm trees and houses rivulets, ravines, cycling tracks, eateries.
Government Museum and Art Gallery: One of the more prominent museums in India, the Government Museum and Art Gallery speaks of the Indian history and partition and was established in August 1947. Known for its rich collection of paintings, artefacts, and sculptures with a unique architechture designed by Le Corbusier is highly revered, this museum was opened in 1968. Located in the centre of the town, it offers gorgeous views of the Shivalik ranges in the background. The museum is closed on Mondays and public holidays and on other days it is open from 10 am to 4:30 pm and you require about 2 hours to check it out. The entry fee is INR 10 per person and you need to pay INR 5 per camera you need to take inside the museum.
National Gallery of Portraits: Chronicling the Independence era, the National Gallery of Portraits houses the portraits, recorded voices of the great leaders of India and rare documents in connection with the freedom struggle. It also houses a library that archives a huge collection of books on the freedom movement. The gallery also screens a film on the freedom movement of India on every Sunday at 2 pm. The Gallery’s prime collection is on Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru and Mahatma Gandhi.
Le Corbusier Centre: A popular heritage centre dedicated the architect who made the city almost six decades back, the Le Corbusier Centre houses the legacy, research, study, writings and works of the famous architect. There is no entry fee and the centre is open from 10 am to 6 pm on all days of the week, except Mondays.
Open Hand Monument: The Open Hand Monument is an amazing work of art located at the Capitol Complex in Chandigarh city. The monument is an open hand symbol for the Government of Chandigarh, designed by Le Corbusier, which means “the hand to give and the hand to take; peace and prosperity, and the unity of mankind”. The hand also rotates with the direction of the wind.
After Chandigarh, we go about 45 km west to the town of Sirhind.
Sirhind Earlier known as Fatehgarh Sahib, the popular notion is that the name Sirhind comes comes from ‘Sar-i hind’, meaning the Frontier of Hind, as the Mughals saw it as the ‘gateway to Hindustan’. The town was also a was a military outpost of Prithviraj Chauhan in his revolt against Muhammad Ghori and became a part of Ghauri Sultanate and later in the year 1362, it was refounded by Tughlaq emperors.
Varahamihira who lived between 505 – 587 AD in his Sanskrit treatise, Brihat Samhita, mentions the city as ‘Satudar Desh’. The city was later inhabited by a tribe of ‘Sairindhas Aryans, leading to its present name. According to Huan Tsang, the Chinese traveller who visited India during the seventh century, Sirhind was the capital of the district of Shitotulo, or Shatadru, which is the present day River Sutlej. In 12th century, Sirhind came under the rule of the Hindu Chauhan Rajputs of Delhi. During the rule of Prithvi Raj Chauhan between 1168 and 1192, the Hindu Rajput ruler of Delhi, it became his military outpost. It further rose in glory during the Mughal Empire, when it became its provincial capital, controlling the Lahore-Delhi Highway, the Grand Trunk Road. During the Mughal era, Sirhind was the name for Malwa, since it was the area’s capital city. Sirhind was the headquarters of the Mughal administration in Eastern Punjab. Many European travellers describe its splendours, and it also developed into a center of cultural activity.
Sirhind was known for the dozens of saints, scholars, poets, historians, calligraphers and scribes who lived there. A famous muslim saint Imām-e-Rabbānī Shaykh Ahmad al-Farūqī al-Sirhindī, an Indian Islamic scholar of Arab origin, a Hanafi jurist, and a prominent member of the Naqshbandī Sufi order is said to be buried here. It is said that in its heyday, the city had 360 mosques, gardens, tombs, caravansarais and wells.
Currently, it is prominent pilgrimage spot for Sikhs as the two young sons of Guru Gobind Singh were brutally killed here. The younger sons of the tenth Sikh guru Sri Guru Gobind Singh ji namely Baba Zorawar Singh ji and Baba Fateh singh ji were bricked alive at the age of 9 and 7 years respectively by the then Mughal governor Wazir Khan. The Gurudwara Sri Fatehgarh Sahib was established at that place to commemorate their death. Baba Banda Singh Bahadur in 1710 destroyed the city of Sirhind completely and killed Wazir Khan the governor. The Sikhs occupied Sirhind and made Bhai Baj Singh the governor.
Since Sirhind is a holy place for the Sikh community, there are a lot of Gurudwara in the town which include the Gurudwara Fatehgarh Sahib which was built to commemorate the martyrdom of the younger sons of Guru Gobind Singh. The Gurdwara Shahid Ganj, which was built to honour the martyrdom of the Sikh who were murdered by the Mughals. It is said that forty cartloads of heads of the martyred Sikhs were cremated. Other gurudwardas include the Gurdwara Jyoti Sarup, the Gurdwara Patshahi Chevin and the Gurdwara Motiram Mehraji. The town is also home to the shrine of Syed Ahmad Sirhindi called Rauza Sharif as well as the tomb of Mir-I-Miran. The Aam Khas Bagh which is the remains of a highway-inn constructed for the use of royalty as well as common people by the Mughal emperor Akbar and rebuilt by his grandson Shah Jahan. The inn was divided into two parts – the Aam for public use and the Khas for private use by the Royalty to be used while travelling between Delhi and Lahore. The Mata Chakreshwari Devi Jain Temple, said to be 1000 years old is located nearby and the water in the tank of the temple is considered sacred by the devotees who carry the water home and consider it as sacred as the water of the river Ganges. The Haveli Todar Mal, home to Diwan Todar Mal, who was one of the nine gems of Emperor Akbar’s court is also known as Jahaz Haveli and is located on the eastern side of the Sirhind – Ropar railway line.
The best time to visit Sirhind is in winter between the months of October to March.
In the next post, we will explore more cities and towns in Punjab.
Originally known as the “land of the five rivers” or “panca nada” in Sanskrit with references to this regionbeing found in the epic, Mahabharata, the region we now know as Punjab was called the Sapta Sindhu, the Vedic land of the seven rivers flowing into the ocean. The name Punjab is a is a compound of two Persian words – Panj meaning five and âb meaning water, which was introduced to the region by the Turko-Persian conquerors of India, and more formally popularised during the Mughal Empire. Punjab thus means “The Land of Five Waters”, referring to the rivers Jhelum, Chenab, Ravi, Sutlej, and Beas. All are tributaries of the Indus River; the Sutlej being the largest. The ancient Greeks referred to the region as Pentapotamía which has the same etymology as the original Persian word.
The Indian state of Punjab is bordered by the Union Territory of Jammu and Kashmir to the north, and the states of Himachal Pradesh to the east, Haryana to the south and southeast, and Rajasthan to the southwest. It is bordered by the Pakistani province of Punjab to the west. The state consists of 1.53% of India’s total geographical area and is the 20th-largest Indian state by area and the 16th-largest state by population. Punjab has the 14th largest state economy with a per capita GDP of US$ 2,100. Punjab is ranked ninth in human development index as of 2018. The state’s economy is primarily agriculture-based due to the presence of abundant water sources and a highly fertile soil, because of which the state is often refered to as India’s breadbasket or India’s granary . Most of the Punjab lies in a fertile, alluvial plain with many rivers and an extensive irrigation canal system. Punjab has the largest number of steel rolling mill plants in India, which are in “Steel Town”—Mandi Gobindgarh in the Fatehgarh Sahib district.
The official state language is Punjabi which is also the most widely spoken language. The main ethnic group are the Punjabis, with Sikhs (57.7%) and Hindus (38.5%) as the dominant religious groups. The state capital is Chandigarh, a Union Territory and also the capital of the neighbouring state of Haryana.
Punjab’s geographical definition has changed over time. In the 16th century Mughal Empire it referred to a relatively smaller area lying between the Indus and the Sutlej rivers. In British India, until the Partition of Punjab in 1947, the Punjab Province encompassed the present-day Indian states and union territories of Punjab, Haryana, Himachal Pradesh, Chandigarh and Delhi and the Pakistani provinces of Punjab and Islamabad Capital Territory. It bordered the Balochistan and Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa regions to the west, Kashmir to the north, the Hindi Belt to the east and Rajasthan and Sindh to the south.
The Punjab region was the cradle for the Indus Valley Civilisation and had numerous migration by the Indo-Aryan people. The first traces of human habitation in India were found in the Punjab region.A heavily contested land, it was in various times, pillaged and conquered by the Persians, Indo-Greeks, Indo-Scythians, Kushans, Macedonians, Ghaznavids, Turkic, Mongols, Timurids, Mughals, Marathas, Arabs, Pashtuns, British and others. Historic foreign invasions mainly targeted the most productive central region of the Punjab known as the Majha region, which is also the bedrock of Punjabi culture and traditions. During the period when the epic Mahabharata was written, around 800–400 BCE, Punjab was known as Trigarta and ruled by the Katoch kings. The Indus Valley Civilization spanned much of the Punjab region with cities and the Vedic Civilization spread along the length of the Sarasvati River to cover most of northern India including Punjab.
Sikhism originated in the this region during the 15th century. Approximately 75% of the total Sikh population of the world lives in Punjab. Sikhism began at the time of the conquest of northern India by Babur. Guru Arjan Dev’s martyrdom at the hands of the Mughal emperor Jahangir, led to the sixth Guru, Guru Hargobind, declaring Sikh sovereignty in the creation of the Akal Takht and the establishment of a fort to defend Amritsar, the holiest of the Sikh cities. The ninth Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur, moved the Sikh community to Anandpur and travelled extensively to visit and preach in Sikh communities in defiance of Mughal rule. He aided Kashmiri Pandits in avoiding conversion to Islam and was arrested and confronted by Aurangzeb. When offered a choice between conversion or death, he chose to die and was executed.
The Sikh community’s growing power under the reign of Guru Gobind Singh alarmed the Sivalik Hill Rajas, who attempted to attack the city, but the Guru’s forces routed them at the Battle of Bhangani. He moved on to Anandpur and established the Khalsa, a collective army of baptised Sikhs, on 13 April 1699. The establishment of the Khalsa united the Sikh community against various Mughal-backed claimants to the guruship.
The Sikh holocaust of 1762 took place under the Muslim provincial government based at Lahore to wipe out the Sikhs, with 30,000 Sikhs being killed, an offensive that had begun with the Mughals, with the Sikh holocaust of 1746, and lasted several decades under its Muslim successor states. The rebuilt Harminder Sahib was destroyed again.
The Sikh Empire which ruled between 1801 to 1849 was forged by Maharajah Ranjit Singh on the foundations of the Khalsa from a collection of autonomous Sikh misls, creating a unified political state. The empire extended from the Khyber Pass in the west, to Kashmir in the north, to Sindh in the south, and Tibet in the east. The main geographical footprint of the empire was the Punjab region. After Ranjit Singh’s death in 1839, the empire was severely weakened by internal divisions and political mismanagement. This opportunity was used by the British Empire to launch the Anglo-Sikh Wars. A series of betrayals of the Sikhs by some prominent leaders in the army led to its downfall. The Greater Punjab region was annexed by the British East India Company from the Sikh Empire in 1849. In 1947, the Punjab Province of British India was divided along religious lines into West Punjab and East Punjab. The western part was assimilated into Pakistan while the east became part of India. The Indian Punjab as well as the Patiala and Eastern Punjab States Union or PEPSU was divided into three parts on the basis of language in 1966. Hindi and dialect speaking areas were carved out as Haryana, while the hilly regions and Pahari-speaking areas formed Himachal Pradesh, alongside the current state of Punjab. During the bloody partition, huge numbers of people were displaced, and there was much intercommunal violence. Immediately following independence in 1947, and due to the ensuing communal violence and fear, most Sikhs and Punjabi Hindus who found themselves in Pakistan migrated to India. In 1956 the states under the PEPSU was integrated with the state of East Punjab to create a new, enlarged Indian state called simply “Punjab”. Punjab Day is celebrated across the state on 1 November every year marking formation of Punjabi language speaking state under Punjab Reorganisation Act of 1966.
Tourism in Indian Punjab centres around the historic palaces, battle sites, and the great Sikh architecture of the state and the surrounding region. The Golden Temple in Amritsar is one of the major tourist destinations of Punjab and indeed India, attracting more visitors than the Taj Mahal.
In the next few blog posts, I will explore in detail some of the major cities in Punjab as well as some interesting and off the beaten path tourist sites and sanctuaries.
While we can’t quell our wanderlust right now, we can still dream about travelling. The destinations below have been the top trending ones and are more or less on the less beathen path. Some of the destinations are absolutely gorgeous and are going right into my bucket list. So here you go…
Kochi, India Also known as Cochin and the Queen of the Arabian Sea, Kochi lies in southwest India, in the stare of Kerala. One of Kerala’s most visited destinations, make sure you don’t miss Kochi’s backwaters, a chain of brackish lagoons and lakes lying parallel to the Arabian Sea coast as well as the Kochi Fort and the Marine Drive. Make sure you visit the Hill Palace, Kerala’s largest archaeological museum as well as the Mattancherry Palace, also known as the Dutch Palace and the Bolgattu Palace on Bolgatty Island. You can also visit the oldest synagogue in the Commonwealth of Nations in Kochi which is the Jewish Synagogue, also known as the Paradesi Synagogue as well as the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica.
Luzon, Philippines The largest and most populous island of the Philippines, where the capital city of Manila is located, Luzon is a good first stop to explore the Philippines. I have written more about Luzon here and here and so you can read more about the island there. The northern region of the most populated island in the Philippines is where you’ll find mountains, coastlines, tropical forests, and rivers including the stunning Banaue Rice Terraces. Central Luzon is known as the rice granary of the Philippines and South Luzon is home to Metro Manila as well as the Taal Volcano as well as the sheer beauty of the Batanes. Of course you can’t miss the world’s best island of Palawan
Porto, Portugal The town that gave the country (and port wine) its very name, Porto is Portugal’s second-largest metropolis after Lisbon. Sometimes called Oporto, it’s an age-old city that has one foot firmly in the industrial present. The old town, centered at Ribeira, was built on the hills overlooking the Douro River, and today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The 14th-century São Francisco church is a main attraction, as are the local port wine cellars, mostly located across the river at Vila Nova de Gaia.
Porto Seguro, Brazil Located in the far south of Brazil in Bahia, Porto Seguro holds a distinctive place in Brazilian history. In 1500 it was the first landing point of the Portuguese navigators, principally Pedro Álvares Cabral, who is regarded as the European discoverer of Brazil. In this quaint city, make sure you check out the historical downtown area in Cidade Alta which is National Heritage Mounument as it was one of the first towns in Brazil. Don’t forget to visit the Monte Pascoal National Park which was created in 1961 to preserve the place where Brazil was discovered by Portuguese warriors and the first city-owned park in Brazil, the Recife de Fora Sea Park. The ruins of what many consider to the Sao Franciso church at the Gloria Hillock and the Nossa Senhora da Penha Matrix Church are not to missed as is the Jaqueira Indigenous Protection Reservation
Gramado, Brazil The small Brazilian village of Gramado is a quaint and woodsy respite on the Rota Romântica or the Romantic Route, a scenic route that runs through 13 municipalities located in the mountainous Serra Gaúcha region of the southernmost Brazilian state of Rio Grande do Sul. Gramado is located southeast of Caxias do Sul and east of Nova Petrópolis in the southern Brazilian state of Rio Grande do Sul, in the Serra Gaúcha region. The Lago Negro or Black Lake is the most known, visited green area of Gramado. Created in 1953, it was the biggest woods of the Hydrangeas’ Region and is formed by damming a creek to create a U-shaped lake with pine imported from Germany’s Black Forest planted around the lake’s rim. The Festival de Gramado, which is a major South American film festival is Gramado’s most important event. Other important festivals in the village include the time when hydrangeas blossom in late spring and Natal Luz or the Christmas festival, which is the largest in Brazil.
Lombok, Indonesia If you are looking for a more laid back holiday with fewer people than you find in Bali, then head to Lombok which is across the Lombok Strats from Bali. Forming a part of the Lesser Sunda islands, Lombok is roughly circular, with a “tail” comprising of the Sekotong Peninsula. Lombok is surrounded by many islets, locally called Gili. Lombok is home to gorgeous beaches and world-class diving spots, plus endless hiking options. The most developed tourism area of the island is on the west coast of the island and is centered about the township of Senggigi. You can also take a ferry from Bali to Lombok and it takes around four to five hours to make the crossing.
Da Nang, Vietnam Da Nang is laid-back and friendly coastal city at the mouth of the Han River and on East Sea coast. It is close to several UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the Imperial City of Hue, the Old Town of Hoi An, and the My Son ruins. The My Son ruins is an archaeological site dating back more than a thousand years and is located in a remote forested valley once contained in excess of 70 style temples and stupas. Many statues, sculptures and reliefs recovered from My Son are today kept in the Museum of Cham Sculpture, in Da Nang. The Marble Mountains are rocky limestone outcrops jutting out of the beach just south of Da Nang. Paths lead to the top of the forested cliffs, providing views of Non Nuoc Beach and the South China Sea. Non Nuoc Beach is a white sandy beach on the outskirts of Da Nang that today, along with the My Khe beach, are home to expensive resorts. The Ba Na Hills is a mountain resort with a 5 km-long cable car system which carries guests up to the peak at 1487m above sea level. Da Nang is also well known for its amazing food and many tourists go on culinary tours while in the city.
Zakynthos, Greece The Ionian Islands are splendid, cinematic paradise. The waters are bluest blue, the sands are achingly silky and smooth and everything looks heavily photoshopped. Zakynthos is the third largest of the Ionian Islands, and is also called the “The Flower of the Levant”. Famous Zakynthos landmarks include the Navagio beach, a cove on the northwest shore isolated by high cliffs and accessible only by boat. Numerous natural “blue caves” are cut into cliffs around Cape Skinari, and accessible only by small boats. Keri, on the south of the island, is a mountain village with a lighthouse. The whole western shore from Keri to Skinari contain rock formations including arches. The northern and eastern shores feature numerous wide sandy beaches, some of which attract tourists in the summer months. The Marathonissi islet, also known as “Turtle Island” near Limni Keriou has tropical vegetation, turquoise waters, beaches, and sea caves. The Bochali hill above the town of Zakynthos contains a small Venetian castle.
Tel Aviv, Israel A youthful, modern metropolis with a diverse population, Tel Aviv dates back to 1909. Its name means “Tell of Spring”, symbolising both ancient legacy and renewal and its UNESCO-designated Bauhaus architecture has won the city the moniker “The White City”. Also known as ‘the city that never sleeps’ and ‘party capital’, Tel Aviv is known for its thriving nightlife, young atmosphere and famous 24-hour culture. Tel Aviv’s beaches are often ranked as some of the best beaches in the world. Hayarkon Park in the city, is the most visited urban park in Israel, with 16 million visitors annually.
Krakow, Poland Beginning life as a stone age settlement, Krakow is the second largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland dating back to the 7th century and is situated on the Vistula River in the Lesser Poland Province. Krakow’s Old Town was declared the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in the world. Major landmarks in the city include the the Wawel Castle with the Zygmunt Bell, the Main Market Square with St. Mary’s Basilica, the Sukiennice Cloth Hall, the National Art Museum, the Kazimierz District and the medieval St. Florian’s Gate with the Barbican along the Royal Coronation Route. They city has 28 museums and public art galleries, among them the Czartoryski Museum featuring works by Leonardo da Vinci and Rembrandt as well as the EUROPEUM – European Culture Centre and the Archaeological Museum of Krakow whose collection highlights include the Zbruch Idol and the Bronocice Pot.
Island of Malta, Malta The largest of the three major islands that constitute the Maltese archipelago, Malta is sometimes referred to as Valletta referring to the capital, to distinguish the main island from the country. Valletta is a lively, bustling city with many buildings dating back to the 16th century and teems with cathedrals, palaces and forts. The impressive Grand Harbour offers a dramatic arrival. The top archaeological attraction is the UNESCO-designated Hypogeum temple ruins, a macabre, 5400-square-foot underground necropolis and the world’s only underground prehistoric temple.
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam Sometimes called by it’s old name of Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City or HCMC as it is abbreviated is Vietnam’s most populous and bustling city that sets the cultural and economic pace for the country. The city boasts charming French colonial architecture and wide boulevards, usually thronged and choked with traffic. Tourist attractions in HCMC are mainly related to periods of French colonisation and the Vietnam War. The War Remnants Museum shows the Vietnam War through Vietnamese eyes and don’t miss the impressive Jade Emperor Pagoda. Be sure you make time to visit the frenetic Ben Thanh Market for food, flowers or frogs. A boat ride tour through the Mekong Delta, past rice paddies and houseboats is a once in a lifetime experience.
Cusco, Peru Incan majesty and Andean baroque exist side-by-side in Cusco’s stone streets, epitomized by the Qoriacancha palace and the church of Santo Domingo flanking the Plaza de Armas. The city was the historic capital of the Inca Empire from the 13th century until the 16th-century Spanish conquest and in 1983, Cusco was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO with the title “City of Cuzco”. The walled complex of Sacsayhuamán built in about 1100 and the remains of the palace of the Incas, the Qurikancha or the Temple of the Sun and the Temple of the Virgins of the Sun which still stand should be visited as is the Cathedral of Santo Domingo. The major nearby Inca sites are Pachacuti’s presumed winter home, the Machu Picchu, which can be reached on foot by the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu or by train; and the “fortress” at Ollantaytambo. Less-visited ruins include the Incahuasi, the highest of all Inca sites at 3,980 m and Vilcabamba, the capital of the Inca after the capture of Cusco. In this high-altitude melting pot of Amerindian and mestizo culture, you’ll find extraordinary textiles, lively summer festivals and archaeological wonders.
Buenos Aires, Argentina The birthplace of the tango is, like the dance itself, captivating, seductive and bustling with excited energy, Buenos Aires is the capital and the largest city of Argentina. Strongly influenced by European culture, Buenos Aires is sometimes referred to as the “Paris of South America” and its atmospheric old neighbourhoods are rife with romantic restaurants and thumping nightlife. Buenos Aires’ European heritage is evident in its architecture, boulevards and parks. Cafe Tortoni, the city’s oldest bar, will transport you back to 1858, and the spectacular Teatro Colon impresses just as it did in 1908. The most popular tourist sites are found in the historic core of the city, in the Montserrat and San Telmo neighborhoods. Latin America’s shopping capital offers the promise of premium retail therapy along its grand, wide boulevards.
Vienna, Austria Vienna which is Austria’s capital is also the country’s most populous city and its cultural, economic, and political centre. Major tourist attractions in Vienna include the Imperial Palaces of the Hofburg and Schönbrunn which are also home to the world’s oldest zoo, Tiergarten Schönbrunn and the Riesenrad in the Prater. Vienna has more than 100 art museums, the most popular ones being the Albertina, Belvedere, Leopold Museum in the Museumsquartier, KunstHausWien, Bank Austria Kunstforum, the twin Kunsthistorisches and Naturhistorisches Museum, and the Technisches Museum Wien. Modern attractions include the Hundertwasserhaus, the United Nations headquarters and the view from the Donauturm. Cultural highlights of the city include the Burgtheater, the Wiener Staatsoper, the Lipizzaner horses at the spanische Hofreitschule, and the Vienna Boys’ Choir, as well as excursions to Vienna’s Heurigen district Döbling. Vienna is also very well known for its coffee house culture and while there, take some time to sit down in one of these palatial, yet welcoming cafes and people watch while drinking their delicious coffee and eating the Sacher Torte.
Fuerteventura, Canary Islands Part of the North African region and located in the Atlantic Ocean, Fuerteventura is the second largest of the Canary Islands and was declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in May 2009. Major places of interest include Corralejo and El Jable to the north which are made up of fine sand dunes whilst the south is filled with long beaches and remote bays. The constant winds blowing onto the beaches provide a paradise for windsurfing. Surfing is common on the west and north coasts where there are large waves. Windsurfing is common around Corralejo and Playas de Sotavento and wave sailing which is windsurfing on the waves on the coast along the northern half of the island. El Cotillo is a small fishing village in the north-west of the Island famous for a very long beach to the south of the village and few very calm beaches to the north. The northern beaches frequented by snorkeling enthusiasts and sun worshippers alike are referred to as lakes by the locals. The island is also home to one of the two surviving populations of the threatened Canarian Egyptian vulture.
Mexico City, Mexico Rising from the ruins of the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan, Mexico City, the capital and the largest city of Mexico is not only the most populous city in North America, but is both the oldest capital city in the Americas and one of two founded by indigenous people, the other being Quito, Ecuador. The city offers a unique collision of contemporary city life and historic preservation. The Centro Histórico or it’s historic centre and the floating gardens of Xochimilco are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and must see sites in the city. The most recognizable icon of Mexico City is the golden Angel of Independence on the wide, elegant avenue Paseo de la Reforma, modeled after the Champs-Élysées in Paris. The Chapultepec Castle, which now a museum and the Palacio de Bellas Artes, should not be missed. The city has about 170 museums, over 100 art galleries, and some 30 concert halls, so there is something for everyone. The nightlife, the shopping and the history make it a must-see regardless of your travel style.
Chiang Mai, Thailand Chiang Mai, meaning ‘New City’ in Thai is the largest city in Northern Thailand which has been in existence since the 13th century. This city which has more than 24 Buddhist temples is a treat to the eyes. Make sure you don’t miss the imposing Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the city’s most famous temple dating back to 1383, which stands on Doi Suthep, a mountain to the north-west of the city, at an elevation of 1,073 meters. Also visit Wat Chiang Man, the oldest temple in Chiang Mai, dating to the 13th century and which houses two important and venerated Buddha figures, the marble Phra Sila and the crystal Phra Satang Man. Another important temple is the Wat Phra Singh which is located within the city walls, and which dates to 1345. This temple offers an example of classic Northern Thai-style architecture and houses the Phra Singh Buddha, a highly venerated figure brought here many years ago from Chiang Rai.Other than the temples, the National Museum and the Botanic Gardens are great places to soak up some local culture and to breathe in the delicate fragrance of Thai orchids. If you can make it around November, make sure you are there for the Loi Krathong festival also locally known as Yi Peng, held on the full moon of the 12th month of the traditional Thai lunar calendar, being the full moon of the second month of the old Lanna calendar. Every year thousands of people assemble floating banana-leaf containers or krathong decorated with flowers and candles and deposit them on the waterways of the city in worship of the Goddess of Water. Lanna-style sky lanterns locally called khom fai or kom loi, which are hot-air balloons made of paper, are launched into the air. These sky lanterns are believed to help rid the locals of troubles and are also used to decorate houses and streets. Of course, you can’t visit Chiang Mai without exploring the famous Night Bazaar.
Fes, Morocco Fez or Fes is the second largest city in Morocco and home to the oldest exisiting, continually operating university in the world – the University of Al-Karaouine, founded in 859. Morocco’s spiritual capital, the walled inner city of Fes consists of Fes el-Bali and Fes el-Jdid which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Fes el-Bali is the site of the famous Qarawiyyin University and the Mausoleum of Moulay Idris II, while Fez el-Jdid is the site of the enormous Royal Palace, still used by the King of Morocco today. Walking in the old walled city will transport you back to medivial times. Visit the ancient maze-like quarters of the Medina to Fes el-Bali and the four imposing Gates of Fes, with their distinctive Moroccan tile work. Shop the local local craftwork, with colorful Moroccan slippers, leatherwork, metalwork, rainbow-glass lamps, and tiles in Fes el-Bali and walk up the steep hill just outside the city ramparts, to the Borj Nord area for the best views over Fes el Bali.
Budapest, Hungary The capital of Hungary, Budapest is actually two cities Buda and Pest which straddle the Danube river. The central area of the city along the Danube River is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has several notable monuments, including the Hungarian Parliament, Buda Castle, Fisherman’s Bastion, Gresham Palace, Széchenyi Chain Bridge, Matthias Church and the Liberty Statue. Among Budapest’s important museums and cultural institutions is the Museum of Fine Arts. Other famous landmarks include Andrássy Avenue, St. Stephen’s Basilica, Heroes’ Square, the Great Market Hall, the Nyugati Railway Station built by the Eiffel Company of Paris in 1877 and the second-oldest metro line in the world, the Millennium Underground Railway. Further famous cultural institutions are the Hungarian National Museum, House of Terror, Franz Liszt Academy of Music, Hungarian State Opera House and National Széchényi Library. Over 15 million gallons of water bubble daily into Budapest’s 118 springs and boreholes. The city has the largest thermal water cave system, second largest synagogue, and third largest Parliament building in the world. The city of spas offers an astounding array of baths, from the sparkling Gellert Baths to the vast 1913 neo-baroque Szechenyi Spa to Rudas Spa, a dramatic 16th-century Turkish pool with original Ottoman architecture.
Zanzibar Archipelago, Tanzania The Zanzibar Archipelago, located in the Indian Ocean 15 miles off the coast of Tanzania, is a breathtaking spot to escape from the world. You’ll enjoy clear, turquoise-blue water; shallow sandbars perfect for wading; and many small, nearly deserted islands virtually unvisited by tourists. Explore the World Heritage Site of Stone Town, Zanzibar City’s old quarter and the heart and soul of the island. Or just go beach to beach between tiny fishing villages—each one’s better than the next. Head out to the Jozani Forest, a vast and scenic spread of green which is the last indigenous forest left on Zanzibar or make a 30-minute boat trip to Prison Island which provides a fascinating glimpse into the island’s slightly dark past. For foodies, the Forodhani market, a night-time food market in Stone Town is a must. For a dose of culture, drop by the Palace Museum or as it’s commonly known as the Sultan’s Palace as well as visit the House of Wonders, a visually stunning historic building in Stone Town hosting interesting exhibition and offering a brilliant insight into Zanzibari and Swahili culture.
Cartagena, Colombia Cartagena, a gorgeous fishing village on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, has excellent beaches, a historic old town (that’s entirely walkable) and beautiful colonial architecture. In 1984, Cartagena’s colonial walled city and fortress were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Make sure you catch the colonial architecture with Andalusian style roots within the walled city as well as the convent, cloister and chapel of Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria de la Popa, located at the top of Mount Popa and the Palace of Inquisition, the Cartagena Gold Museum, the Las Bóvedas and the Clock Tower. Of the twenty fortresses comprising the walls in the district of Getsemaní, today 16 are still standing, preserved in good condition. Out of the city, go to the Las Islas del Rosario, which are one of Colombia´s most important national parks and can eb reached in an hour or less from de city docks.
Edinburgh, United Kingdom Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh is renowned for its heritage, culture and festivals. One of the most beautiful cities in all of the UK, Edinburgh rises from the wide Firth of Forth to a high, rocky pinnacle crowned by the stone walls and towers of Edinburgh Castle. The festivals Edinburgh hosts include the Edinburgh International Book Festival, which welcomes more than 1,000 authors, to the sparkling Christmas Markets and the Edinburgh Fringe, the world’s largest festival of the arts. Take long walks around the centre to explore the World Heritage Sites of the Old Town and New Town, as well as all the area’s museums and galleries. Then stop for a delicious meal made from fresh Scottish produce before heading out to take in one of Edinburgh’s many events — including the famous summer festivals of culture, or the Winter Festivals of music, light and ceilidhs.
Cebu Island, Philippines From the cosmopolitan metropolis of Cebu City and the white-sand beaches of Mactan to the electric-blue waters of Kawasan Falls and the whale sharks of Oslob, it’s easy to see why Cebu Island is one of the Philippines’ top destinations. Its capital, Cebu city, nicknamed ‘The Queen City of the South’ is the oldest in the Philippines. The Spanish influence in the Philippines can still be felt in the Basilica Minore de Santo Niño, where a glass-covered niche holds a precious statue of the Christ Child that commands countless devotees throughout Cebu. This devotion reaches its peak during the Sinulog Festival that takes place in the middle of January every year. The waters around Cebu are known for their biodiversity; famous dive spots around the area, like Sumilon Island and Moalboal, attract thousands of experienced divers every year.
Moscow, Russia The political, scientific, historical, architectural and business centre of Russia, Moscow, on the Moskva River displays the country’s contrasts at their most extreme. The ancient and modern exist side by side in this city of 10 million. In its historic core is the Kremlin, a complex that’s home to the president and tsarist treasures in the Armoury. Outside its walls is Red Square, Russia’s symbolic center. It’s home to Lenin’s Mausoleum, the State Historical Museum’s comprehensive collection and St. Basil’s Cathedral, known for its colorful, onion-shaped domes. Try to catch the ballet or the circus at the Bolshoi theatres. Another interesting Moscow sight is the Moscow Metro which with its incredible interiors is the world’s most beautiful subway system, just avoid the morning and evening rush hours.
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Memories and Such 