As a Vietnamese girl coming of age in Grand Rapids, Michigan, Bich Nguyen is filled with a rapacious hunger for American identity. In the pre-PC era Midwest, where the devoutly Christian blond-haired, blue-eyed Jennifers and Tiffanys reign supreme, Nguyen’s barely conscious desire to belong transmutes into a passion for American food.
More exotic seeming than her Buddhist grandmother’s traditional specialties like spring rolls, delicate pancakes stuffed with meats and fried shrimp cakes, the campy, preservative-filled delicacies of mainstream America capture her imagination. And in this remarkable book, the glossy branded allure of such American foods as Pringles, Kit Kats, and Toll House cookies become an ingenious metaphor for her struggle to fit in, to become a real American.
Beginning with Nguyen’s family’s harrowing migration from Saigon in 1975, Stealing Buddha’s Dinner is nostalgic and candid, deeply satisfying and minutely observed, and stands as a unique vision of the immigrant experience and a lyrical ode to how identity is often shaped by the things we long for.
Murlen National Park Located about 250 km east of Aizwal, the Murlen National Park is close to the Chin Hills, north of the Lengteng Wildlife Sanctuary. The park covers an area of approximately 200 sq km and the tropical, semi-evergreen, and submontane forests of Murlen are home to a rich variety of flora and fauna. About 15 species of mammals, 150 species of birds, 35 species of medicinal plants, two species of bamboo, and four species of orchids have so far been recorded in this park. Murlen National Park is located at Murlen village, which is the village of Saithuama Sailo, the Chief of Hnahlan and is a part of the Hnahlan Village. Murlen was declared a National Park in 1991.
Only about 1% of the sun’s rays can penetrate the forest on a sunny day. So the forest cover in the park can generally be compared to the Amazon region in South America. Some of the trees found in the park are 350 years old and there is an area in the park where the sun’s rays cannot penetrate. For this reason, the area has been known as the losing area of seven fellow men or the land of no return. Two species of Ceropegia belonging to the Asclepiadaceae plant family have been discovered in Murlen National Park. The national park is famous for housing animals like the hoolock gibbon, and the Himalayan Black Bear as well as leopards, tigers, and many other species.
Phawngpui A quaint and serene village located about 300 km south of Aizwal at an elevation of 2157 m, Phawngpui proffers picturesque views surrounded by verdant trees and lofty mountains. Also known as Blue Mountain, Phawngpui is the highest mountain peak in the Mizo or Lushai Hills. It is in the southeastern region near the Myanmar border. A trek to the top of the mountain will provide amazing views of the whole place which will make one feel as if they are in heaven. The ideal time to visit Phawngpui is between November and April when the weather is pleasant and a cool breeze flows. There is a semicircular series of cliffs on the western side called Thlazuang Khàm, which have a sharp and deep fall; mountain goats live there. These cliffs are believed to be haunted by spirits. On the peak, there is a level ground of about 2 sq km in area.
A highly revered peak, considered to be the abode of local deities, Phawngpui was a major centre of folk religion and a location for folklore stories. The name is derived from the Lai language, with phong, meaning a grassland or meadow, and the suffix pui meaning, great. This was because the mountain was mostly covered with all types of meadows, hence the great meadow. The mountain was, according to the belief of the natives, the abode of several spiritual races. The most important folktale, perhaps, is that of a deity king named Sangau; the actual town at the base of the mountain which has become Sangau. Sangau had a son who married the princess of another royal family called Cherian. At the wedding was an exchange of gifts, a couple of hoolock gibbons from Sangau and a pine tree from Cherian. The base area, the main entrance of the mountain bears the name Farpak which means pine only.
The Chhimtuipui River is a serene river that flows in Phawngpui and is the perfect place to spend some quiet time in the lap of nature. The beauty of the river is captivating during sunrises and sunsets, so if visiting Phawngpui, make time during that time of the day to visit the river. Located 7 km from Phawngpui, Farpak provides picturesque views of nature and is also the base for the trek up to Phawngpui peak. Replete with lush green trees and fauna, some of the commonly spotted animals include clouded leopards and elephants. Sangau is located 30 km from Phawngpui and is another base from where one can trek up the Phawngpui mountain.
Phawngpui National Park The Phawngpui National Park or The Phawngpui Blue Mountain National Park is one of the two national parks in Mizoram, the other and larger being the Murlen National Park. It is about 300 km from Aizwal, towards the southeast of Mizoram relatively close to Myanmar. The park is named after the Phawngpui mountain, often called the Blue Mountain, the highest mountain peak in the state, reaching 2,157 m asl. The national park covers the entire mountain along with the surrounding reserve forest. In the Lai dialect, Phawng means a meadow and pui is the suffix for great. It is also believed by many that Phawngpui was an abode of God.
The mountain area of Phawngpui is at most times covered by a thin stretch of clouds, which makes it blue in appearance from a distance, hence the name Blue Mountain. It overlooks the River Chhimtuipui flowing towards Myanmar and the edges of the mountains are all very steep and have sharp precipices, with the most spectacular one being a semi-circular beautiful cliff on the western side called Thlazuang Khâm, which has a blunt and deep fall. The mountain ridge runs in a north-south direction covering about 10 km. The closest human settlement is Thaltlang village at the base and periphery of the park.
The Phawngpui National Park provides habitat for a range of birds including the rare Blyth’s tragopan, falcon, sunbirds, dark-rumped swift, and Mrs Hume’s pheasant, which is the Mizoram state bird, and also rare animals like the mountain goat, slow loris, tiger, leopard, leopard cat, serow, goral, Asiatic black bear, stump-tailed macaque and capped langur. In 2000, rare bird species were recorded such as mountain bamboo partridge, oriental pied hornbill, purple cochoa, striped laughing thrush, grey sibia, black eagle and large-billed crow. The clouded leopard or Neofelis nebulosa was spotted and documented for the first time in 1997. The landscape is the natural habitat of various grass and the steep slopes are covered by orchids and rhododendrons, with areas of bamboo.
Ecofriendly visits to the national park are only allowed during the dry season with permits open for six months between November to the end of April. The rest of the season is left for natural development and rejuvenation.
The highest point in the state, Phawngpui Peak is a revered mountain. Also known as the blue mountain, the peak is located within the Phawngpui National Park and oversees a wondrous landscape full of deep crevices and magnificent cliffs. Trekking to the summit of Phawngpui is an experience no adventure lover can let go of. At a height of 2100 m, Phawngpui Peak is considered to be the abode of the Goddess of the Mizo tribes. The peak is made accessible by the state only between November to April and during this time, the route is usually dry and well marked out due to animal movements. The winter months can be cold so multiple layers are needed. The peak and national park are open between 6 am and 5 pm daily and there is a minimal entry fee to the national park.
Saiha Saiha which is also known as Siaha lies about 300 km south of Aizwal and is the headquarters of the Mara Autonomous District Council, one of the three autonomous district councils within Mizoram. The word Siaha in the local Mara language comes from Sia for Masia which means elephant and ha meaning tooth, so the name translates to an elephant’s tooth. The name came about because it was here that a large number of elephant teeth were found. Though the local people name the town as Siaha, Mizos called it by the name Saiha, which is purely a translated term in the Mizo language.
Saiha is known as the fastest-growing town in Mizoram, as the population has significantly risen in the last decade. The town lies at an average height of 729 meters above sea level and is considered to be a haven for angling enthusiasts.
Lying 130 km to the southwest of Saiha lies the Palak Wildlife Sanctuary, an exquisite display of biodiversity. It is situated in the Lakher region, which lies in the southern part of Mizoram. Not the biggest of wildlife sanctuaries, it is spread across 15.50 sq km and boasts a range of species like the sambar, barking deer, leopard, elephant and rhesus macaque.
Palak Dil, also known as Pala Tipo is located in the Phura village, a few km from the main town of Saiha. The lake’s name in the Mizo language means the swallowing lake and is the largest lake in Mizoram. The lake is located in an area rich in biodiversity, given that it is located in the Indo-Burma biodiversity hotspot. As it is a major component of the Palak Wildlife Sanctuary, it is also blessed with a lot of flora and fauna. The lake covers an area of 30 hectares and is surrounded by a thick unspoilt forest.
Mount Mawma is the third-highest mountain in Mizoram and the highest mountain within the Mara Autonomous District Council. Situated in the southeastern part of Mizoram, it is just 15 km from India’s international boundary with Myanmar. Two km from Mount Mawma lies Chakhei, a town where a well-furnished guest house is located. Mount Mawma is 6,725 feet or 2,050 m above sea level. During winter, the plains of Bangladesh as well as many parts of western Myanmar, are visible from the peak of the mountain.
This brings us to the last of the seven sister states of northeast India. While on one hand, I would love the northeast of India to be more accessible and have better rail and road infrastructure, on the other hand, over-commercialisation will most likely lead to the area losing the charm it currently has. This a question we all need to think about, what is the right amount of commercialisation that an area retains the charm and beauty it is known for and at the same time, infrastructure is built to promote tourism?
The next state we will explore will be the last state I have left to explore in India, which will be Delhi, India’s capital. So look out for it.
Empress: The Astonishing Reign of Nur Jahan – Ruby Lal
Four centuries ago, a Muslim woman ruled an empire.
When it came to hunting, she was a master shot. As a dress designer, few could compare. An ingenious architect, she innovated the use of marble in her parents’ mausoleum on the banks of the Yamuna River that inspired her stepson’s Taj Mahal. And she was both celebrated and reviled for her political acumen and diplomatic skill, which rivaled those of her female counterparts in Europe and beyond.
In 1611, thirty-four-year-old Nur Jahan, daughter of a Persian noble and widow of a subversive official, became the twentieth and most cherished wife of the Emperor Jahangir. While other wives were secluded behind walls, Nur ruled the vast Mughal Empire alongside her husband, and governed in his stead as his health failed and his attentions wandered from matters of state. An astute politician and devoted partner, Nur led troops into battle to free Jahangir when he was imprisoned by one of his own officers. She signed and issued imperial orders, and coins of the realm bore her name.
Acclaimed historian Ruby Lal uncovers the rich life and world of Nur Jahan, rescuing this dazzling figure from patriarchal and Orientalist clichés of romance and intrigue, and giving new insight into the lives of women and girls in the Mughal Empire, even where scholars claim there are no sources. Nur’s confident assertion of authority and talent is revelatory. In Empress, she finally receives her due in a deeply researched and evocative biography that awakens us to a fascinating history.
Dampa Tiger Reserve Located amidst deep and dense forests, the Dampa Tiger Reserve is located about 120 km southwest of Aizwal and is rich with a variety of flora and fauna. The wildlife sanctuary covers a sprawling area of over 500 sq km in the Lushai Hills at an altitude of between 800 to 1,100 m on the western side of Mizoram and touches the international boundaries with Bangladesh. It was declared a tiger reserve in 1994 and is part of Project Tiger. The name Dampa means lonely men and refers to a local narrative about a village, where a lot of the women died.
The protected area was initially established as a wildlife sanctuary in 1985 with an area of about 680 sq km, which was reduced to about 340 sq km. In 1994, it received the status of a Tiger Reserve with an area of 500 sq km and thus became part of Project Tiger. The jurisdiction of the reserve is under two ranges, namely the Teirei Range and the Phuldungsei Range. The hills around the wildlife sanctuary are known to be the bio-geographic highway that connects India to certain regions of Mayanmar and China.
The tropical forests of the Dampa Tiger Reserve are home to diverse flora and fauna consisting of forests interpolated with steep precipitous hills, deep valleys, jungle streams, ripping rivulets, and natural salt licks. The reserve is not easily accessible unlike other parks where one can ride on a four-wheeler but one has to walk through the forest if one wishes to sight animals.
Dampa is home to the sloth bear, the serow, the hoolock gibbon, the slow loris, the endangered Phayre’s leaf monkey, the India leopard and the clouded leopard to name a few. The Bengal tiger was said to be extinct here until very recently when in May 2021 a camera trap finally captured a definite picture of a Bengal tiger. The last such recording was seven years ago, and before that, tiger scat was the only proof of their existence.
The Blue Pitta which belongs to the Pittidae family and is one of the 30 species on Earth is one of the main attractions here. Studies suggest that only 6 out of these 30 species of Pitta are found in India. There are about 54 species of birds that reside in the protected area out of which only 25 species have been identified by biologists researching the fauna of the reserve. Out of these 25, two species are in the nearly threatened category, and one is on the verge of extinction.
Dampa wildlife sanctuary is famous for its Jungle Safari. A part of the Safari includes taking detours in the deep, dense forests of the reserve. During the safari, one can spot leopards and tigers. A large variety of deer and bears are a common sight around the national park. Apart from this, Dampa also houses an exquisite variety of birds. One can book safari tours in advance and also opt to stay at one of the guesthouses available nearby at Dampa Hills.
Dampa Tiger Reserveis the largest wildlife sanctuary in Mizoram, was notified in 1985 and declared a tiger reserve in 1994. It is situated in the western part of Mizoram state, on the international border with Bangladesh about 127 km from Aizawl. It covers an area of approximately 550 sq km. The tropical Forests of Dampa are home to rich flora and fauna. It consists of forest interpolated with steep precipitous hills, deep valleys, jungle streams, ripping rivulets, natural salts licks, with an altitudinal zone of 200 m to 800 m. Dampa Tiger Reserve is a part of Project Tiger funded by the Government of India
Lunglei Situated in the south-central part of Mizoram, which means the bridge of rock got its name from a bridge-like rock found in the riverine area around Nghasih – a small tributary of the River Tlawng, the longest river in Mizoram. It is the largest town after the capital, Aizawl, and is located about 165 km south of Aizawl.
Lunglei was the capital of the South Lushai Hill Districts for 10 years from 1888, as was Aizawl for the North Hill Districts. The two were united in 1898. Until India’s partition, Lunglei had direct access to Chittagong, a big city in what is today Bangladesh which made Lunglei the commercial and educational centre. The first Jeepable road to Lunglei was made only in the 1950s.
Lunglei is famous for its scenic beauty and natural setting and is an ideal offbeat destination for those who love natural beauty and adventure activities bundled into one. Trekking, bird watching and camping are among the popular activities opted for by tourists visiting Lunglei. Lunglei is a biodiverse region, home to the Thorangtlang Wildlife Sanctuary and the Saza Wildlife Sanctuary. While the Saza Wildlife Sanctuary is famous for hosting migratory and endemic bird species, the Thorangtlang Wildlife Sanctuary is home to several animal species such as leopards, tigers, porcupines and leaf monkeys among others. Visiting the Lunglei Rock Bridge at the Nghasih stream is another popular activity while here.
On a rocky portion on the southern edge of Tawikhawthlir hill near Mualcheng village, about 65 km south of Lunglei, there are three figurines of persons in meditational poses which the local people call Lung Milem or the Stone Figures. It is not known who created them and it remains a mystery to date as no other relics of Buddhism are found elsewhere in the state.
Ui Lung is a monolith famous for its remarkably intricate carvings. It was erected in the whereabouts of 1800 by a certain Chinzah chieftain and his citizens in an expression of their longing for their fellow clansmen who perished in a severe famine. Their former village called Dawn is now in the Myanmar Republic. The stone features intricate carvings of animal heads, gongs, and human figures with spears and other weapons. It is a landmark in the historical wealth of the state. One may also visit Chhura leh Naa Vawk, a monolith with carvings portraying Mizo historical stories close to Ui Lung.
The District Museum at Lunglei is well-known as a storehouse of the ethnic culture and traditions of the state. There are exhibits of armour, jewellery, utensils, paintings, and other native art.
Lying about 84 km northeast of Lunglei, Khawnglung is a mountain situated near Pangzawl and a village of the same name used to be located on the ridge and was the scene of one of the bloodiest massacres during the days of internecine feuds between the Sailo chiefs in the middle of the nineteenth century. Intertwined with this event is the tragic love story of Chalkunga and Thanghniangi, a beautiful maiden who happened to be one of the many female captives taken by the raiders. Chalkunga later rescued her in a daring lone foray, only to lose her on the way home in the flooding Tiau river which swept her away from his grasp while they were attempting to cross it. With sheer cliffs on all sides, the mountain has always been a natural shelter for man and animals for ages. Declared a wildlife sanctuary in 2000, Khawnglung covers an area of 35 sq km and is rich in flora and fauna, particularly primates and birds. It however requires trekking for about 10 km to reach the sanctuary. The best time to visit is between October and March.
Champhai A bustling commercial town at the Indo – Myanmar border, Champhai is a beautiful place and a storehouse of ancient relics, monuments, legends and folklore. Located about 186 km east of Aizwal, Champhai is also considered the fast-emerging fruit bowl of Mizoram. Well-tended vineyards, passion fruit and the recently introduced kiwi fruit plantations in the surrounding hill slopes provide a kaleidoscope of colours. Champhai is believed to be the entry point and the settlement of the first Mizo migrants to India. At the base of the town, towards the Myanmar border is the Champhai Valley. Surrounded by undulating hills, is a wide expanse of rice fields, popularly known as the rice bowl of Mizoram. Because of Champhai’s strategically important location, it is the main business corridor for India and Myanmar in the area.
Champhai was the headquarters of Lalbura Sailo, the son of Vanhnuailiana, a Mizo Chief against whom the British Expedition of 1871–72 was directed. It was accorded the status of a fort during British colonial rule. The Champhai Valley was once a lake and was gradually silted to obliterate the lake. The soil of the plain was still uncultivated during the Lushai Expedition of 1872. Irrigated rice cultivation started in Champhai in 1898 encouraged by the British colonial authorities to supply rice to their soldiers and labourers.
Champhai has several tourist attractions mostly including natural settings, including Kungawrhi Puk, a cave, the river Tiau Lui and the Rih Dil lake. Adventure enthusiasts can indulge in some trekking at the Thasiama Seno Neihna which is about 83 km south of Champhai.
Hla Kungpui Mual is a monument to commemorate Mizo poets, writers, and composers. It was set up in 1986 at the southern edge of the Khawbung Village in the Champhai district. Here, the monuments of Mizo laureate poets and writers are erected at intervals of 10 years. There is a Mizo Poets Square Archive and Library within the compound where the belongings of the poets are preserved. Currently, a total of 36 monuments call the Poet’s Square home.
Once upon a time, on the legendary Lianchhiari Lunglen Tlang cliff, the love-smitten Lianchhiari used to look out for her lover, Chawngfiang, who had migrated to a distant village. With its idyllic view, this perilously protruding cliff has it has found a natural home in a plethora of romantic lore. It lies South of Champhai on the way to Khawbung.
Located to the northeast of Champhai, Mt. Lengteng and its surroundings have been declared a wildlife sanctuary. The second-highest mountain in the region is filled with broad leaf and tropical evergreen forests, and sheer rocky cliffs. It is home to the endangered state bird, Vavu or Mrs Hume’s Pheasant and hornbills and endangered mammals like the slow loris, the leopard, the leopard cat, the serow, the goral and the Asiatic black bear. The sanctuary boasts orchids of various hues and beautiful flowering trees like rhododendrons and cherries. The Lengteng Wildlife Sanctuary is very close to the Murlen National Park which is spread over an area of 100 sq km with sub-tropical evergreen forests.
The Rih Lake is the largest in Mizoram and is often contested to be situated in Myanmar. It is a beautiful heart-shaped lake, believed to be the passage of souls to their eternal abode and is 14 miles from Champhai in Mizoram and 63 miles from Falam, Myanmar. Because it lies in a sensitive area, it cannot be visited without prior permission from the Deputy Commissioner’s Office.
Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child – Noël Riley Fitch
Julia Child became a household name when she entered the lives of millions of Americans through our hearts and kitchens. Yet few know the richly varied private life that lies behind this icon, whose statuesque height and warmly enthused warble have become synonymous with the art of cooking.
In this biography we meet the earthy and outrageous Julia, who, at age eighty-five, remains a complex role model. Fitch, who had access to all of Julia’s private letters and diaries, takes us through her life, from her exuberant youth as a high-spirited California girl to her years at Smith College, where she was at the center of every prank and party. When most of her girlfriends married, Julia volunteered with the OSS in India and China during World War II, and was an integral part of this elite corps. There she met her future husband, the cosmopolitan Paul Child, who introduced her to the glories of art, fine French cuisine, and love. Theirs was a deeply passionate romance and a modern marriage of equals.
Julia began her culinary training only at the age of thirty-seven at the Cordon Bleu. Later she roamed the food markets of Marseilles, Bonn, and Oslo. She invested ten years of learning and experimentation in what would become her first bestselling classic, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Now, her career is legend, spanning nearly forty years and still going strong. Generations love the humor and trademark aplomb that have made Julia a household name. Resisting fads and narrow, fanatical conventions of health-consciousness, Julia is the quintessential teacher. The perfect gift for food lovers and a romantic biography of a woman modern before her time, this is a truly American life.
Memories and Such 
