In My Hands Today…

The Aquariums of Pyongyang: Ten Years in the North Korean Gulag – Kang Chol-Hwan and Pierre Rigoulot

Amid escalating nuclear tensions, Kim Jong-un and North Korea’s other leaders have kept a tight grasp on their one-party state, quashing any nascent opposition movements and sending all suspected dissidents to its brutal concentration camps for “re-education.”

Kang Chol-Hwan is the first survivor of one of these camps to escape and tell his story to the world, documenting the extreme conditions in these gulags and providing a personal insight into life in North Korea. Sent to the notorious labor camp Yodok when he was nine years old, Kang observed frequent public executions and endured forced labor and near-starvation rations for ten years. In 1992, he escaped to South Korea, where he found God and now advocates for human rights in North Korea.

Part horror story, part historical document, part memoir, part political tract, this book brings together unassailable firsthand experience, setting one young man’s personal suffering in the wider context of modern history, giving eyewitness proof to the abuses perpetrated by the North Korean regime.

Travel Bucket List: India – Delhi Part 4

Jama Masjid
The Masjid-i-Jehan-Numa or the World-reflecting Mosque, commonly known as the Jama Masjid of Delhi, is one of the large mosques in India. It was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan between 1650 and 1656 at the highest point of Shahjahanabad and inaugurated by Syed Abdul Ghafoor Shah Bukhari from Bukhara, Uzbekistan who had been invited by Shah Jahan to be the mosque’s Shahi or Royal Imam. Situated in the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad which is today Old Delhi, it served as the imperial mosque of the Mughal emperors until the demise of the empire in 1857. The Jama Masjid was regarded as a symbolic node of Islamic power across India, well into the colonial era as well as a site of political significance during several key periods of British rule. It remains in active use today and is one of Delhi’s most iconic sites, closely identified with the ethos of Old Delhi.

The mosque has two names. The older one, bestowed by Shah Jahan, is Masjid-i-Jehān-Numā, roughly translating to the mosque commanding the view of the world in Persian and Urdu. The other more common one is Jāmā Masjid, which emerged among the common people whose literal translation in Arabic is a congregational mosque. It is used in the sense of a Friday mosque or Juma Masjid since this is when the congregational prayer is held. The term Jama Masjid is not unique to Delhi’s mosque. Since the 7th century, it has been used in the Islamic world to denote the community mosque, and hence many around the world bear this name and its variants. The mosque was one of the last monuments built under Shah Jahan and after completion, it served as the royal mosque of the emperors until the end of the Mughal period.

During British colonial rule, the Masjid continued to serve as a site of social and political discourse, but the Revolt of 1857 was a major turning point. It resulted in the deaths of many British and weakened colonial authority, deeply affronting the British and ending the Mughal empire. The British perceived the revolt as instigated by Muslims, cultivated within Delhi’s mosques. So, after the British reclaimed the city in the same year, they razed many mosques and banned the congregation of Muslims in any remaining mosques. The Jama Masjid was barred from any religious use and was repeatedly considered for destruction, but eventually, it was used as barracks for its Sikh and European soldiers. The Masjid was eventually returned to the Muslims in 1862, due to their increasing resentment of British actions. Multiple conditions were imposed, including the usage of the Jama Masjid as strictly a religious site, as well as mandatory policing by the British. The Jama Masjid Managing Committee or JMMC, consisting of respected Muslims of Delhi, was established as a formal body to represent the mosque and enforce these conditions. In 1886, the Nawab of Rampur donated a sum of 1,55,000 rupees to facilitate repairs and in 1926, a donation from the Nizam of Hyderabad of 1,00,000 rupees was used for similar purposes.

The Jama Masjid continued to be a political symbol after independence. In 1948, the last Nizam of Hyderabad, Asaf Jah VII was asked for a donation of 75,000 rupees to repair one-fourth of the mosque floor. The Nizam instead sanctioned 3,00,000 rupees, stating that the remaining three-fourths of the mosque should not look old.

Today, Jama Masjid serves as Delhi’s primary mosque and has a largely congregational function. The Muslims of the city traditionally gather here to offer communal Friday prayer, as well as for major festivals such as Eid. The mosque is also a major tourist attraction and derives a significant amount of income through such visits.

At the time of its construction, the Jama Masjid was the largest mosque in the Indian subcontinent. It was modelled after the Jama Masjid of Fatehpur Sikri, reflected in the design of many exterior features, such as the facade and courtyard. However, the interior of the mosque more closely resembles the Jama Masjid in Agra. The mosque predominantly uses red sandstone and is set apart from its predecessors by more extensive usage of white marble. Black marble also features as a decorative element. Arabic and Persian calligraphic pieces are found on various surfaces of the structure, whose content ranges from religious to panegyric. The complex is oriented to the west, towards Mecca. An imperial college, imperial dispensary, and madrasa used to lie adjacent to the structure but were destroyed in the uprisings of 1857.

The mosque is accessed by three sandstone gates, with the most prominent being the three-storied high eastern gate, which historically acted as the shahi or royal entrance, reserved only for the use of the Emperor and his associates. The other two entrances are the northern and southern gates, which are two stories high and were used by the general population. Each gate is accompanied by a three-sided sandstone stairway, with white markings to designate prayer positions. The cabinet located in the north gate has a collection of relics of Muhammad, including the Quran written on deerskin, a red beard-hair of the prophet, his sandals, and his footprints embedded in a marble block. The square courtyard is paved with red sandstone and faces the eastern gate and can accommodate 25,000 worshippers. Open arcades run along the edges of the courtyard, through which the surroundings of the Masjid are visible. Chhatris mark the four corners of the courtyard, rising above the arcades.

Three marble domes rise from the roof of the prayer hall, featuring golden finials and the facade features a grand pishtaq in the centre, flanked by five smaller, cusped archways on either side. Above each archway of the prayer hall are some calligraphic pieces. The interior of the hall bears seven mihrabs or prayer niches on the western qibla wall, corresponding to the seven bays into which the hall is divided. The central mihrab is intricately decorated and clad in marble, with a marble minbar or pulpit lying to its right. The hall is floored with white and black ornamented marble to look like a Muslim prayer mat. The mosque’s domes are flanked by two sandstone minarets, at the northeast and southeast corners. They are 40 m high and longitudinally striped with white marble. Each minaret consists of 130 steps, along which viewing galleries occur at three places. Both minarets are topped with a marble chhatri.

The Imams of Delhi’s Jama Masjid have traditionally been the direct descendants of the first Imam of the Masjid, Syed Abdul Ghafoor Shah Bukhari, who was appointed by Shah Jahan. Their position is known as that of the Shahi Imam, or Royal Imam. The person next in line to the position is known as the Naib or Deputy Imam. The Shahi Imams bear the last name of Bukhari, denoting their ancestral origin in Bukhara in modern-day Uzbekistan.

The best time to visit the mosque is before 12 noon and between 2 and 4 pm. The most important prayer is held right before sunset between 4:30 and 5:30 p. Jama Masjid is open every day from 7 am to 12 noon and then again between 1:30 and 6:30 pm for muslims and for non-muslims, between 8 am to 30 minutes before sunset. The minaret is open between 9 am to 5:30 pm. While entry to the mosque is free, if you want to photograph the masjid, the cost for that is INR 200 while entry to the tower costs INR 100.

Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque
Located within the Qutb Minar complex, the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque which translates to the Might of Islam was built by the Mamluk ruler, Qutub-ud-din Aibak. This was the first mosque to be built in the city after the Islamic conquest of India. Also known as Jami Masjid, the construction of the mosque began in 1193 and is the oldest surviving testament of the Ghorids’ architecture in the Indian subcontinent. Subsequent additions were made to the monument during the reigns of Iltutmish and Alauddin Khilji. Initially, the mosque was conceived as a stand-alone structure but the Qutb Minar was constructed simultaneously as a Minar of the Jami Masjid so that the imam can use the minar to call the congregation for prayers.

The Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque resembles the structure and pattern of other monuments at the time built by the same ruler like the Adhai Din ka Jhopra and the Ajmer Mosque. A Persian inscription found at the site suggests that it required the destruction of twenty-seven Hindu and Jain temples to furnish the material for the construction of this mosque. Originally built with red sandstone, grey quartz and white marble, the building is currently in ruins. Layers of plaster have given way to reveal Hindu carvings on the original stone.

An example of Indo-Islamic architecture, the mosque includes a central courtyard and a grand prayer hall located to its west, huge arcades made of greystone, and a total of five bays. It also has an enormous central arch and comparatively smaller side arches. Both the screens and the pillars are carved with floral designs and religious texts. The mausoleum is built on an elevated platform with an ornate dome-shaped entrance borrowed from Hindu temples. The iron pillar is located in the front while the very popular Qutb Minar is located to its west. The mosque is open between 10 am and 5 pm. Entry fees are INR 10 for Indians and IR 250 for foreigners.

Fatehpuri Masjid
Situated at the western end of Chandni Chowk, Fatehpuri Masjid is a 17th-century mosque named after the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan’s wife, Fatehpuri Begum. Built in 1650, the mosque is constructed entirely of red stone and boasts a fluted dome and towering minarets. The mosque has a vast central prayer hall designed with seven enormous arches and is famous for stationing the Indian troops during the war of 1857. Later, it was auctioned by the British to a local merchant, Rai Lala Chunnamal for INR 19000, who preserved and protected the mosque till 1877 when it was again acquired by the government in exchange for four villages. The mosque has three huge entrance gates, one of which opens across the road from Red Fort and the other two are located towards the North and South.

Fatehpuri Masjid has been built on an elevated platform of three and a half feet. Capped by a gigantic dome, the mosque is guarded by two towering minarets. The chief prayer hall has seven arches, the central of which is the highest. Both the dome and the arches have been made out of lime mortar and are striped black and white. Made entirely in red sandstone, the mausoleum has three entrance gates- the biggest of which opens across the road from Red Fort and the other two opens towards the North and South ends. The monument also boasts of a central courtyard which houses more than twenty graves of prominent Islamic scholars; single and double-storeyed apartments flank the courtyard. A very large tank grace the courtyard, the water from which is used for ablution.

Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb
Situated in Mehrauli’s Archaeological Village Complex, Jamali Kamali Mosque and Tomb are the two structures situated beside one another. The mosque is surrounded by a garden area and is built in red sandstone with marble decorations. There’s a prayer hall with five arches embellished with medallions and other ornaments. The nooks and walls are adorned with inscriptions from the Koran. The tomb, adjacent to the mosque, is a flat monolith painted in red and blue and decorated with Koranic inscriptions and Jamali’s poems. The way to the tomb gives one the impression that one is stepping inside a jewellry box.

Jamali, also known as Shaikh Jamali Kamboh, was a famous Sufi saint from the pre-Mughal rule. He was buried in his tomb after his demise in 1535. On the other hand, Kamali was a common man who was associated with Jamali. Together the complex is regarded as Jamali Kamali as both these people were laid to rest next to each other under two marble graves. The construction of both the mosque and tomb began in 1528 and it took a whole year to complete. The mosque and tomb are open between 10 am and 6 pm.

Nizamuddin Dargah
The mausoleum or dargah of the Sufi saint, Khwaja Nizamuddin Auliya who lived between 1238 and 1325, Nizamuddin Dargah is located in the Nizamuddin West and is visited by thousands of pilgrims every week. The Dargah is looked after by the descendants of Nizamuddin Auliya which is also known for its evening qawwali devotional music sessions. The tombs of Amir Khusrau, Nizamuddin’s disciple, and Jehan Ara Begum, Shah Jahan’s daughter, are located at the entrance to the complex. The dargah complex has more than 70 graves. The complex was renovated and restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture around 2010.

Nizamuddin’s tomb has a white dome. The main structure was built by Muhammad bin Tughluq in 1325, following Nizamuddin’s death. Firuz Shah Tughlaq later repaired the structure and suspended four golden cups from the dome’s recesses. Nawab Khurshid Jah of Hyderabad’s Paigah Family gifted the marble balustrade that surrounds the grave. The present dome which is about 6 m by 6 m in diameter was built by Faridun Khan in 1562. The structure underwent many additions over the years. The Dargah is surrounded by a marble patio and is covered with intricate jalis or trellis walls.

Next to the dargah is the Jamat Khana Masjid built of red sandstone and has three bays. Its stone walls are carved with inscriptions of texts from the Quran with arches that have been embellished with lotus buds, in addition to the facade of its dome having ornamental medallions. Built during the reign of Alauddin Khalji by his son Khizr Khan and completed between 1312 and 1313, Khizr was responsible for the central dome and hall and was a follower of Nizamuddin. Around 1325, when Muhammad bin Tughlaq took over the reign, he constructed the two adjoining halls, each of which has two domes. The southern hall or chhoti masjid or little mosque is restricted to women and features a wooden door. The large dome of the mosque features a golden bowl that is suspended from the centre.

At the back entrance of the complex is a baoli or stepwell, commissioned by Nizamuddin himself and completed in 1321. It is close to the Yamuna river and is always filled. People believe that its waters have magical powers and bathe in it. According to legend, Ghiyasuddin Tughlaq had commissioned the Tughlaqabad Fort at the same time the baoli was being built. Because he forbade all workers from working on the stepwell, they would work on it at night. Upon discovering this, the supply of oil was restricted. The masons then lit their lamps with the water of the baoli, after a blessing.

The area has been a hub for cultural activities in Delhi since the 13th century, leading to many building important buildings close to the area, including Humayun’s Tomb and Sunder Nursery, a 16th-century heritage park. The tombs of Mirza Ghalib and Abdul Rahim Khan-I-Khana are also located in this area due to their cultural significance. The other important monuments in the Nizamuddin heritage area include Barakhamba and Lal Mahal.

The area is referred to as the nerve centre of Sufi culture in India. On the 17th and 18th day of the Islamic month of Rabi’ al-awwal, thousands gather to observe the birth anniversary and urs or death anniversary of the saint. Besides this, thousands also visit during the birth and death anniversaries of Amir Khusrau, Nizamuddin’s disciple. Hundreds visit the dargah everyday throughout the year to pray. The Dargah has a tradition of qawwali, especially the one every Thursday night attracting about 1500 visitors. The regular qawwalis occur every evening after the Maghrib or evening prayer. Women are traditionally not allowed inside the dargah’s inner sanctum. The evening prayers in which lamps are lit, called the Dua-e-Roshni, is an important ritual. Pilgrims gather around the khadim, the caretaker, who prays for the wishes of all those gathered to be granted.

The festival of Basant Panchami is also celebrated at the dargah. According to legend, Nizamuddin was deeply attached to his nephew, Khwaja Taqiuddin Nuh, who died due to an illness. Nizamuddin grieved over him for a long time. Khusrau, his disciple, wanted to see him smile and dressed up in yellow and began celebrating the onset of Basant, after spotting some women do the same. This caused Auliya to smile, an occasion that is commemorated to this day. The Dargah is open daily between 5 am and 10:30 pm.

Humayun’s Tomb
The tomb of the Mughal Emperor, Humayan, Humayun’s tomb was commissioned by Humayun’s first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega Begum under her patronage in 1558. The first garden-tomb in the Indian subcontinent, the tomb is located close to the Dina-panah Citadel, also known as Purana Qila, which Humayun constructed in 1538. It was also the first structure to use red sandstone in such a scale and was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1993. Besides the main tomb enclosure of Humayun, several smaller monuments dot the pathway leading up to it, from the main entrance in the west, including one that even pre-dates the main tomb itself, by twenty years; it is the tomb complex of Isa Khan Niyazi, an Afghan noble in Sher Shah Suri’s court of the Suri dynasty, who fought against the Mughals, which was constructed in 1547.

The complex encompasses the main tomb of Emperor Humayun, and also houses the graves of Empress Bega Begum, Hamida Begum, and also Dara Shikoh, great-great-grandson of Humayun and son of Emperor Shah Jahan, as well as numerous other subsequent Mughals. It represented a leap in Mughal architecture, and together with its accomplished Charbagh garden, typical of Persian gardens, but never seen before in India, it set a precedent for subsequent Mughal architecture.

The tomb’s site was chosen on the banks of the Yamuna river, due to its proximity to the Nizamuddin Dargah. In later Mughal history, the last Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar took refuge here, during the Indian Rebellion of 1857, along with three princes, and was captured by Captain Hodson before being exiled to Rangoon. The Tombs of Battashewala Complex lie in the buffer zone of the World Heritage Site of the Humayun Tomb Complex; the two complexes are separated by a small road but enclosed within their separate compound wall. The tomb of Humayun was built by his first wife and chief consort, Empress Bega Begum, also known as Haji Begum. Construction began in 1565 and was completed in 1572.

During the partition of India, Purana Qila together with Humayun’s Tomb, became the major refugee camps for Muslims migrating to the newly founded state of Pakistan. An important phase in the restoration of the complex began around 1993, when the monument was declared a World Heritage Site. Excavation process began under the aegis of the Aga Khan Trust and the ASI which culminated in 2003, when much of the complex and gardens were restored, with the historic fountains running once again after several centuries of disuse.

The high rubble built enclosure is entered through two lofty double-storeyed gateways on the west and south, 16 metres high with rooms on either side of the passage and small courtyards on the upper floors. The tomb, built of rubble masonry and red sandstone, uses white marble as a cladding material and also for the flooring, lattice screens, door frames, eaves, and the main dome. It stands on a vaulted terrace eight m high and spread over 12,000 sq m. It is essentially square in design, though chamfered on the edges to appear octagonal, to prepare the ground for the design of the interior structure. The plinth made with rubble core has fifty-six cells all around and houses over 100 gravestones. The entire base structure is on a raised platform, a few steps high. The double or double-layered dome has an outer layer that supports the white marble exterior, while the inner part gives shape to the cavernous interior volume. In a contrast to the pure white exterior dome, the rest of the building is made up of red sandstone, with white and black marble and yellow sandstone detailing, to relieve the monotony.

The symmetrical and simple design on the exterior is in sharp contrast with the complex interior floor plan, of the inner chambers, which is a square ninefold plan, where eight two-storied vaulted chambers radiate from the central, double-height domed chamber. It can be entered through an imposing entrance iwan or high arc on the south, which is slightly recessed, while other sides are covered with intricate jaalis, stone latticework. Underneath this white dome in a domed chamber or hujra, lies the central octagonal sepulchre, the burial chamber containing a single cenotaph. The Cenotaph is aligned on the north-south axis, as per Islamic tradition while the real burial chamber lies in an underground chamber, exactly beneath the upper cenotaph. The main chamber also carries the symbolic element, a mihrab design over the central marble lattice or jaali, facing Mecca in the west.

While the main tomb took over eight years to build, it was also placed in the centre of a 30-acre Charbagh, a Persian-style garden with a quadrilateral layout. The highly geometrical and enclosed Paradise garden is divided into four squares by paved walkways and two bisecting central water channels, reflecting the four rivers that flow in Jannat, the Islamic concept of paradise. Each of the four squares are further divided into 8 smaller gardens with pathways, creating 32 miniature gardens in all, with the mausoleum in the centre, a design typical of later Mughal gardens. The central water channels appear to be disappearing beneath the tomb structure and reappearing on the other side in a straight line, suggesting a Quranic verse that talks of rivers flowing beneath the Garden of Paradise.

The tomb and garden are enclosed within high rubble walls on three sides. The fourth side was meant to be the river Yamuna, which has since shifted course away from the structure. The central walkways terminate at two gates – a main one on the southern wall, and a smaller one on the western wall. It has two double-storey entrances; the west gate is currently used, while the south gate, which was used by the Mughals, is now closed. Aligned at the centre on the eastern wall lies a baradari, which is a building or room with twelve doors designed to allow the free draught of air through it. On the northern wall lies a hammam, a bath chamber.

Other monuments within the complex includes the tomb and mosque of Isa Khan Niyazi dating back to 1547, Bu Halima’s Tomb and Garden Afsarwala’s Tomb and Mosque, Arab Serai which used to be stables, Nila Gumbad and Chillah Nizamuddin Aulia believed to be the residence of Nizamuddin Auliya located just outside the main complex.

Humayun’s Tomb is open daily between 10 am and 6 pm and entry fees are INR 10 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners. For filming videos, one needs to pay INR 25 while photography is free.

Safdarjung’s Tomb
An elegant mausoleum built of marble and sandstone boasting of an 18th-century Mughal architectural style, Safdarjung’s Tomb was built in 1754 during the reign of Mughal Emperor Ahmad Shah Bahadur. The tomb is dedicated to the Prime Minister of the emperor, Safdarjung. The mausoleum boasts of a tranquil ambience with an enormous dome, elaborate arches, and intricate architecture.

The mausoleum was built by Safdarjung’s son Shuja-ud-Daula and is one the very last specimens of Mughal architecture and signifies the downfall of the dynasty. The garden tomb is built in a fashion similar to that Humayun’s Tomb, and also houses several pavilions, a madrasa and a library at the entrance, managed by the Archaeological Survey of India.

The tomb’s design had four key features in the char bagh style – the mausoleum surrounded by four gardens, the nine-fold floor, five facade design and a huge rostrum with a secret passageway. The front of the monument has intricate ornamentation. The main mausoleum has high arched walls with intricate carvings, the cenotaph is reposed on the square central chamber, and the dome rests on top of the terrace. The underground chamber beneath the cenotaph has the graves of Safdarjung and his wife. Built entirely with red and buff stones, the interiors of the tomb are covered in rococo plasterwork. Four polygonal towers decorated in marble and possessing huge arches occupy the corners of the tomb from the outside. The rear side of the monument houses a library and several rooms. To its right, is a mosque. Built in the conventional style of Mughal architecture and closely on the lines of the Taj Mahal, the structure appears unbalanced due to accentuated prominence of the vertical axis, with a more elongated dome and the four minarets a part of the main monument, unlike the Taj Mahal where the minarets are detached.

The gardens surrounding the mausoleum are built in the typical Mughal charbagh style, styled on the designs of Humayun’s Tomb. Fenced by a 280 m high wall, the gardens are further divided into four squares with neat little pathways and sparkling water tanks. One passage leads to the main gate while the others lead to the pavilions. The main mausoleum stands on a dais 50 m in height. Four pavilions and octagonal chhatris or towers with arches built in rubble stone masonry, complete the structure of the monument. The pavilions in the western, southern and northern directions are called Jangli Mahal, Badshah Pasand and Moti Mahal respectively. These pavilions were originally the residence of the Nawab’s family. In addition, the complex also houses several tiny apartments, a mosque and a courtyard. The tomb is open between 7 am and 6 pm and has an entry fee of INR 15 for Indians and INR 200 for foreigners. Children under the age of 15 have free entry.

Isa Khan’s Tomb
Located adjacent to Humayun’s Tomb in the same complex Isa Khan’s Tomb is the final resting place of Isa Khan, a courtesan of Sher Shah Suri, and his son Islam Shah Suri. Built during Sher Shah Suri’s lifetime, the construction of the monument resembles the architecture of the Suri reign. The tomb boasts lattice screens, glazed tiles and a deep verandah. The octagonal tomb has an architectural finesse which is apparent in the distinctive ornamentation of the monument in the form of glazed canopied and elaborate carvings.

Standing south of the Bu Halima garden, the main tombstone is made out of red sandstone and is marked with the inscription addressed to Isa Khan and the date of the construction. Restoration of the monument led to the discovery of sunken gardens, which are considered the earliest examples of the technique. At the corner of the tomb is situated a tiny mosque with matching architecture and patterns from those of the tomb. The mosque was built at the same time as the tomb and was supposed to be the prayer room for Isa Khan.

The tomb was constructed by Isa Khan in his lifetime who died a few months after the tomb was finished. The monument boasts a massive arched gateway and is circumferenced by a wide verandah with each side of the octagon having triple arch entrances adorned with blue, green, and yellow glazed tiles. Each of the eight corners is supported by pillars that rise above to form a minaret. A magnificent dome sits on the roof and is decorated with an inverted lotus filial. In addition to that, eight chhatris occupy the right sides of the octagon. Seven walls of the tomb have intricate lattice or jaali work, except the eighth western wall which has a mihrab. The walls and the roof have beautiful fresco paintings. The frescos are a beautiful amalgamation of flowers, geometrical patterns and calligraphy. The mosque in the complex also has a triple-arched gateway with similar glazed tile work in yellow, blue and green and the same pattern frescos on the walls.

The tomb is open between 10 am and 6 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for Indians while foreigners need to pay INR 500. Filming videos will incur a charge of INR 25 while still photography is free.

Hijron ka Khanqah
Located in Mehrauli, Hijron ka Khanqah is the Islamic monument for the burial of Muslim transgenders. The name translates to spiritual retreat for eunuchs, and the cemetery is situated within the Archaeological Park in Mehrauli. Dating back to the 15th century, the pre-Mughal monument houses forty-nine graves of the eunuchs who died during the reign of the Lodhi dynasty. The memorial is managed by the Hijras or eunuchs of Turkman Gate since the 20th century.

The compound has a narrow entry gate that leads to a marble patio which is dotted with white-coloured graves all over. Adjacent to the cemetery is a tiny terrace and on the west, in the direction of Kaaba is a mosque. Among the many tombs in the graveyard, the most important is that of a prominent hijra called Miyan Saheb.

Nicholson Cemetery
Situated in the heart of the city in Kashmere Gate and formerly known as Old Delhi Military Cemetery or the Kashmere Gate Cemetery, Nicholson Cemetery, also known as Lothian Cemetery is an ancient Christian cemetery named after the Brigadier-General John Nicholson, a Victorian-era military officer who played a crucial role during the Indian Rebellion of 1857 and succumbed to injuries during the revolt. The cemetery is a burial ground for both British and Indian Christians during British colonial rule.

Located amidst wild bushes on the trail to the left is the grave of John Nicholson. Not much further is a tiny cottage occupied by the caretaker and his family. The cemetery is also notoriously popular for ghostly activities and according to the Indian Paranormal Society, the headless apparition of John Nicholson haunts the place.

In My Hands Today…

Things I’ve Been Silent About – Azar Nafisi

I started making a list in my diary entitled Things I Have Been Silent About. Under it I wrote: “Falling in Love in Tehran. Going to Parties in Tehran. Watching the Marx Brothers in Tehran. Reading Lolita in Tehran. I wrote about repressive laws and executions, about public and political abominations. Eventually I drifted into writing about private betrayals, implicating myself and those close to me in ways I had never imagined.–From Things I Have Been Silent About

Azar Nafisi, author of the beloved international bestseller Reading Lolita in Tehran, now gives us a stunning personal story of growing up in Iran, memories of her life lived in thrall to a powerful and complex mother, against the background of a country’s political revolution. A girl’s pain over family secrets; a young woman’s discovery of the power of sensuality in literature; the price a family pays for freedom in a country beset by political upheaval–these and other threads are woven together in this beautiful memoir, as a gifted storyteller once again transforms the way we see the world and “reminds us of why we read in the first place” (Newsday).

Nafisi’s intelligent and complicated mother, disappointed in her dreams of leading an important and romantic life, created mesmerizing fictions about herself, her family, and her past. But her daughter soon learned that these narratives of triumph hid as much as they revealed. Nafisi’s father escaped into narratives of another kind, enchanting his children with the classic tales like the Shahnamah, the Persian Book of Kings. When her father started seeing other women, young Azar began to keep his secrets from her mother. Nafisi’s complicity in these childhood dramas ultimately led her to resist remaining silent about other personal, as well as political, cultural, and social, injustices.

Reaching back in time to reflect on other generations in the Nafisi family, Things I’ve Been Silent About is also a powerful historical portrait of a family that spans many periods of change leading up to the Islamic Revolution of 1978-79, which turned Azar Nafisi’s beloved Iran into a religious dictatorship. Writing of her mother’s historic term in Parliament, even while her father, once mayor of Tehran, was in jail, Nafisi explores the remarkable “coffee hours” her mother presided over, where at first women came together to gossip, to tell fortunes, and to give silent acknowledgment of things never spoken about, and which then evolved into gatherings where men and women would meet to openly discuss the unfolding revolution.

Things I’ve Been Silent About is, finally, a deeply personal reflection on women’s choices, and on how Azar Nafisi found the inspiration for a different kind of life. This unforgettable portrait of a woman, a family, and a troubled homeland is a stunning book that readers will embrace, a new triumph from an author who is a modern master of the memoir.

Travel Bucket List: India – Delhi Part 3

Tughlaqabad Fort
Built in 1321 by Ghiyasuddin Tughluq, the founder of the Tughlaq dynasty, of the Delhi Sultanate of India as he established the third historic city of Delhi, today the Tughluqabad Fort lies ruined as it was abandoned in 1327. It lends its name to the nearby Tughluqabad residential-commercial area as well as the Tughluqabad Institutional Area.

The area surrounding the fort is an important biodiversity area within the Northern Aravalli leopard wildlife corridor stretching from the Sariska Tiger Reserve to Delhi. It is contiguous to the seasonal waterfalls in Pali-Dhuaj-Kot villages of Faridabad, the sacred Mangar Bani, and the Asola Bhatti Wildlife Sanctuary. There are several dozen lakes formed in the abandoned open pit mines in the forested hilly area of Delhi Ridge.

The fort area also has the mausoleum of the founder and first ruler of the fort, Ghiyas-ud-din Tughlaq, his wife and son. It is said that the Sufi saint Nizammudin Auliya cursed Tughlaqabad as a punishment for the arrogance of Ghiyasuddin and the fort is believed to be haunted by djinns.

Adilabad Fort, a small fort built by Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq is located around 2 km from the fort. The two forts were earlier separated by a reservoir that stood between the two hills, but is dried up now. The fort was constructed primarily as a stronghold for defensive purposes against the ever-invading Mongols rather than an architectural establishment.

Ghias-ud-din is usually perceived as a liberal ruler, but because he was so passionate about his dream fort that he issued a dikat that all labourers in Delhi must work on his fort. The Sufi saint Nizamuddin Auliya, who lived in the 13th century, got incensed as the work on his baoli or well was left incomplete and so there came a confrontation between the Sufi saint and the emperor during which the saint cursed the emperor.

The Mausoleum of Ghiyath al-Din Tughluq is connected by a causeway to the southern outpost of the fortification. This elevated causeway 180 m in length and supported by 27 arches, leads across a former artificial lake. However sometime in 20th-century a portion of the causeway was pierced by the Mehrauli-Badarpur road. After passing an old Pipal tree, the complex of Ghiyas ud-din Tughluq’s tomb is entered by a high gateway made up of red sandstone with a flight of steps. The actual mausoleum is made up of a single-domed square tomb about 8 by 8 m with sloping walls crowned by parapets. The sides are faced by smooth red sandstone and are inlaid with inscribed panels and arch borders from marble. The edifice is topped by an elegant dome resting on an octagonal drum that is covered with white slabs of marble and slate. Inside the mausoleum are three graves – the central one belongs to Ghiyas ud-din Tughluq and the other two are believed to be those of his wife and his son and successor Muhammad bin Tughluq. In the north-western bastion of the enclosure wall with its pillared corridors is another octagonal tomb in a similar style with a smaller marble dome and inscribed marble and sandstone slabs over its arched doors. According to an inscription over its southern entrance, this tomb houses the remains of Zafar Khan. His grave was at the site before the construction of the outpost and was consciously integrated into the design of the mausoleum by Ghiyath al-Din himself.

Tughluqabad still consists of remarkable, massive stone fortifications that surround the irregular ground plan of the city. The city is supposed to once have had as many as 52 gates of which only 13 remain today. The fort is a half hexagon in shape with a base of 2.4 km and a whole circuit of about 6.4 km. Tughluqabad is divided into three parts – the wider city area with houses built along a rectangular grid between its gates, the citadel with a tower at its highest point known as Bijai-Mandal and the remains of several halls and a long underground passage and the adjacent palace area containing the royal residences. A long underground passage below the tower still remains. Today most of the city is inaccessible due to dense thorny vegetation. An ever-increasing part of the former city area is occupied by modern settlement, especially in the vicinity of its lakes.

The fort is open daily between 7 am and 5 pm and has an entry fee of INR 20 for Indians and INR 200 for foreigners.

Siri Fort
The Siri Fort was built during Alauddin Khalji’s rule, to defend the city from the onslaught of the Mongols. It was the second of the seven cities of medieval Delhi built around 1303, which at present is seen only in ruins with a few remnants.

History suggests that the city of Siri was built to protect the empire from the attack of the Mongols; and after the war, close to 8000 Mongol soldiers were buried in the city. At the time it was constructed, Siri had plenty of palaces, and other monuments including seven magnificent gates to enter and exit. However, now, the fort is in a derelict state with leftover ramparts, some citadels and a southeastern gate. Due to frequent Mongol invasions of West Asia, the Seljuqs took asylum in Delhi. The craftsmen of Seljuq dynasty are credited with this era’s architectural monuments in Delhi. In 1303, Targhi, a Mongol general, besieged the Siri fort when Alauddin retreated during the Mongol expedition into India. Targhi could not penetrate the fortifications of the Siri Fort and he finally retreated to his Kingdom in Central Asia. Subsequently, Alauddin’s forces defeated Mongols decisively at Amroha in 1306.

Siri was later linked to the fortifications of Jahanpanah and was also known as Darul Khilafat or the Seat of the Caliphate. According to the legend of Ala-ud-din’s war exploits, the name Siri given to the Fort was because the foundation of the fort was built on the severed heads or Sir which means head in Hindustani of about 8,000 Mongol soldiers killed in the war. It was the first city built by Muslims and was oval. The fort was once considered the pride of the city for its palace of a thousand pillars called the Hazar Sutan built outside the fort limits with marble floors and other stone decorations. Its darwaza or door is supposed to have been beautifully decorated. In the eastern part of the ruins, there are remnants of flame-shaped battlements, loopholes for arrows, and bastions, which were considered unique new additions of that period. In the nearby Shahpur Jat village, some dilapidated structures of the period are seen. The Tohfewala Gumbad Masjid is one such structure whose ruins show the form of a domed central apartment and sloping wall characteristic of Khaljis architecture.

The destruction of the Fort is attributed to the local rulers who removed the fort’s stones, bricks, and other artefacts for their buildings. In particular, Sher Shah Suri who was of Pashtun Afghan descent from Bihar, took away material from Siri to build his city.

Near the ruins of the ancient fort city, the Asian Village Complex, popularly known as the Siri Fort Complex, was developed during the 1982 Asian Games. The complex was developed in the land around the Siri Fort ruins and among these buildings are a large sports complex of courts for tennis, badminton and basketball, a swimming pool, a golf course, gymnasium, an aerobics centre, jogging tracks, cricket grounds, large auditoriums, upscale residential buildings, deluxe food joints and commercial establishments.

Siri Fort is open between 9 am and 5 pm and has no entrance fees to access the fort.

Feroz Shah Kotla Fort
The Feroz Shah Kotla or Kotla was a fortress built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in 1354 to house his version of Delhi city called Firozabad. A pristine polished sandstone Topra Ashokan pillar from the 3rd century BC rises from the palace’s crumbling remains, one of many pillars of Ashoka left by the Mauryan emperor; it was moved from Topra Kalan to Delhi under orders of Firoz Shah Tughlaq of the Delhi Sultanate and re-erected in its present location in 1356. The original inscription on the obelisk is primarily in Brahmi script but the language was Prakrit, with some Pali and Sanskrit added later. The inscription was successfully translated in 1837 by James Prinsep. Other than the Ashokan Pillar, the Fort complex also houses the Jami Masjid (Mosque), a Baoli, and a large garden complex. The fortress, also known as Kotla, was built on the banks of River Yamuna due to the scarcity of water in Tughlaqabad. The majestic fort is encompassed by beautiful gardens.

The Feroz Shah Kotla Fort is always crowded on Thursdays as people come here for prayers. There’s an interesting reason behind this weekly occurrence. It is believed that Jinns come to the fort from heaven to fulfil the wishes of people who pray on this day.

Jami Masjid is one of the most ancient and largest surviving mosques and monuments still in use. Built by the Mughal emperor Shahjahan, architecturally it was built on a series of underground cells made of quartzite stone, covered with limestone. It is surrounded by a large courtyard with cloisters and a prayer hall. The Prayer Hall now in complete ruins was once used by the royal ladies. The Masjid and its architecture is an example of Tughluq architecture. The entrance to Jami Masjid lies on the northern side and is connected by a causeway to the pyramidal structure of the Ashokan Pillar. This mosque was visited by Timur in 1398 to say his prayers and he was so spellbound by its beauty, he constructed a mosque in Samarkand in Mawarannahr imitating the design of this Masjid. This mosque is also known to be where Imad ul Mulk, a Mughal Prime Minister, got Emperor Alamgir II murdered in 1759.

The Topra Ashokan Pillar which is now within Feroz Shah Kotla lies towards the north of Jama Masjid. The Pillar was first erected by King Ashoka between 273 and 236 BC in Topra Kalan in Haryana. There is another Ashokan Pillar, that is seen installed near the Hindu Rao Hospital, also erected by Ashoka in Meerut. This pillar, however, was unfortunately broken into five pieces after it was damaged during an explosion. The Ashokan Pillar was carefully wrapped with cotton silk and kept on a bed of reed made of raw silk and transported on a massive carriage attached with 42 wheels and drawn meticulously by 200 men from their original place to Delhi by Feroz Shah Tughlaq to avoid any damage during the journey, upon which it was then transported on huge boats to the final destination. The Sultanate wanted to break and reuse the Ashokan pillar for a minaret, but Firoz Shah Tuhglaq decided to erect it near the mosque instead. At the time of the re-installation of the obelisk in Delhi in 1356, no one knew the meaning of the script engraved in the stone. About five hundred years later, the script which was deciphered to be Brahmi was deciphered by James Prinsep in 1837 with help from scripts discovered on other pillars and tablets in South Asia. The inscription on the 3rd-century pillar describes King Devanampiya Piyadasi’s policies and appeal to the people and future generations of the kingdom in matters of dharma or a just and virtuous life, moral precepts, and freedoms.

Source

The circular Baoli or stepwell lies towards the northwestern side of the Ashokan Pillar. It lies in the heart of a large garden constructed in the form of subterranean apartments and a large underground canal built on its eastern side through which the water runs into the well. This is the only circular Baoli in Delhi, and also one of the four Baolis, where the tank is not separated from the well. It once had a roof on it, which collapsed long ago, exposing the tank at the second level. Originally it had an entry from the east and the west, but now, only the west side is accessible. Due to security reasons, the Baoli is kept locked, but permission to visit can be obtained easily for research purposes from the Delhi circle office of the Archaeological Survey of India.

Every Thursday there is a huge crowd at the fort. It is popularly believed that Jinns descend to the Fort from the Heavens and accept requests and wishes from people. A lot of wishes, penned down on paper, can be seen on the walls within the premises. The association with Jinns seems to be recent since it is only since 1977, a few months after the end of the Emergency, that there are first records of people starting to come to Firoz Shah Kotla in large numbers.

Firoz Shah Kotla Fort is open between 8:30 am to 7 pm daily and the entry fees are INR 5 for Indians and INR 500 for foreigners.

Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple
Close to Delhi’s border with Noida, the Swaminarayan Akshardham complex displays a beautiful mix of traditional and modern Hindu culture, spirituality, and architecture. Inspired by Yogiji Maharaj and created by Pramukh Swami Maharaj, and was constructed by the BAPS Foundation. Officially opened on 06 November 2005, the temple, at the centre of the complex, was built according to the Vastu and Pancharatra shastra.

Various exhibition halls provide information about the life and work of Swaminarayan and the designers of the complex have adopted contemporary modes of communication and technology to create the various exhibition halls. The complex features an Abhishek mandap, a Sahaj Anand water show, a thematic garden, and three exhibitions namely the Sahajanand Darshan or the Hall of Values, the Neelkanth Darshan which is an IMAX film on the early life of Swaminarayan as the teenage yogi, Neelkanth, and the Sanskruti Darshan which is a cultural boat ride. According to Swaminarayan Hinduism, the word Akshardham means the abode of Swaminarayan and is believed by its followers as a temporal home of God on earth.

The Akshardham Mandir which rises 141 feet high, spans 316 feet wide, and extends 356 feet long is intricately carved with flora, fauna, dancers, musicians, and deities. The temple is entirely constructed from Rajasthani pink sandstone and Italian Carrara marble. Based on traditional Hindu architectural guidelines or the Shilpa Shastra on maximum temple life span, it makes no use of ferrous metal. Thus, it has no support from steel or concrete. The Mandir also consists of 234 ornately carved pillars, nine domes, and 20,000 statues of swamis, devotees, and acharyas. The temple also features the Gajendra Pith at its base, a plinth paying tribute to the elephant for its importance in Hindu culture and India’s history. It contains 148 life-sized elephants weighing a total of 3000 tons. Under the temple’s central dome lies the 3.4 m high statue of Swaminarayan seated in abhayamudra to whom the temple is dedicated, surrounded by images of the faith’s lineage of Gurus depicted either in a devotional posture or in a posture of service. Each statue is made of paanch dhaatu or five metals following Hindu tradition as well as statues of Sita Ram, Radha Krishna, Shiv Parvati, and Lakshmi Narayan.

Sahajanand Darshan or the Hall of Values features lifelike robotics and dioramas displaying incidents from Swaminarayan’s life set in 18th-century India. The hall also features the world’s smallest animatronic robot in the form of Ghanshyam Maharaj, the child form of Swaminarayan. The Nilkanth Darshan is a theatre that houses Delhi’s first and only large format screen and shows a 40-minute film specially commissioned for the complex, Neelkanth Yatra, to recount a seven-year pilgrimage made by Swaminarayan made during his teenage years throughout India. The Sanskruti Vihar is a 12-minute long boat ride that takes a visitor from Vedic India to present times, using life-sized figures and robotics. The musical fountain, also known as the Yagnapurush Kund, is India’s largest step well featuring very large series of steps down to a traditional yagna kund. During the night, a musical fountain show, Sahaj Anand – Multi-Media Water Show, a 24-minute presentation brings to life a story from the Kena Upanishad. The fountain measures 91 m by 91 m with 2,870 steps and 108 small shrines. In its centre lies an eight-petaled lotus-shaped yagna kund designed according to the Jayaakhya Samhita of the Pancharatra shastra. Also known as the Bharat Upavan, the Garden of India has lush manicured lawns, trees, and shrubs and is lined with bronze sculptures of contributors to India’s culture and history. The Yogi Hraday Kamal is a sunken garden, shaped like a lotus when viewed from above and features large stones engraved with quotes from world luminaries. Narayan Sarovar is a lake that surrounds the main monument containing the holy waters from 151 rivers and lakes. Surrounding the Narayan Sarovar are 108 gaumukhs, symbolising Janmangal Namavali or the 108 names for God, from which holy water issues forth. Premvati Ahargruh is a vegetarian restaurant modelled on the Ajanta and Ellora caves in Maharashtra as well as an Ayurvedic bazaar. The Akshardham Centre for Applied Research in Social Harmony or the AARSH Centre applies research on social harmony and related topics.

The Akshardham Temple is closed on Mondays and on other days is open between 10 am to 8 pm with the last entry at 6:30 pm. Ticket counters close at 6 pm. There is an aarti twice a day at 10:30 am and 6 pm. The Abhishek Mandap is open for darshan and pooja between 10 am and 8 pm. To view the exhibitions, adults above 12 need to pay INR 220, senior citizens need to pay INR 170 and children between 4 and 11 need to pay INR 120 while entry is free for children below 4. The water show takes place after sunset and the maha aarti happens before the first show. The temple has a dress code where arms, shoulders, chest, navel, and legs have to be covered. Photography is not allowed as are electronics and mobile phones. If one is planning on carrying water bottles inside the complex, one needs to ensure the bottles are transparent.

ISKCON Mandir
Also known as the Hare Rama Hare Krishna Temple, the ISKCON Temple is a Vaishnav temple dedicated to Lord Krishna and Radharani in the form of Radha Parthasarathi. It was established in 1998. The outer complex is embellished with intricate carvings and stonework and has many shops and a beautiful fountain. Inside the main sanctum, the idols are adorned with rich clothes and jewellery. The temple complex is also a centre for learning Vedic sciences and many devotional lectures and addresses are arranged for the benefit and spiritual nerve of devotees.

The main shrine gives way to three shrines that are located under the three spires, each of which is 90 feet tall. These are dedicated to Radha-Krishna, Sita-Ram and Guara-Nitai respectively. While the outer surface of the temple has detailed artwork, the inner sanctum has kaleidoscopic mosaics depicting the various phases of Krishna’s life. Located on the perimeter of these shrines is the parikrama compound, where pictures of different ISKCON temples are exhibited. Many images of Radha – Krishna adorn the complex as well.

The ISKCON temple also houses a museum which organises multimedia shows exhibiting great epics such as Ramayana and Mahabharata as well as a display of various gods and goddesses of bronze. The Ramayana Art Gallery has prominent scenes from the Ramayana showcased in multimedia with light and sound effects. The Bhagavadgita Animatronics Robot Show is a unique show with clay robots that narrate the teachings of the Bhagavad Gita. The temple has an open-air amphitheatre where programmes are held from time to time. The Mahabharat Experience is a Light and Sound show that depicts the story of Mahabharat. The cost of the show is INR 200 per person. The Bhagavat Puran Exhibit is an exhibition of the Bhagavat Puran, the most important scripture for Vaishnava Hindus in a visual format. The Astounding Bhagavad Gita, is the largest printed book around the world weighing over 800 kg and measuring over 2.8 m.

The temple complex has a restaurant called Govinda’s, which offers vegetarian meals between noon and 3 pm for lunch and 7 to 10 pm for dinner. Coupons for the meal have to be purchased in cash.

The temple is open between 4:30 am and 9 pm with the core temple hall closed between 1 to 4 pm. Photography is not allowed within the temple complex.

Birla Mandir
Popularly known as the Laxminarayan Temple, the Birla Mandir is dedicated to Lord Laxminarayan. It is located at Connaught Place and was built by the Birla family, which is why it is known as the Birla temple. Built in the early 1900s and spread over 7.5 acres, the temple houses many shrines, fountains, and gardens along with sculptures and carvings. The main God of the temple is Lord Narayan with Goddess Laxmi. However, the temple has shrines dedicated to Lord Ganesha, Shiva and Hanuman among other Gods. Famous for celebrating Diwali and Janmashtami, the temple attracts tourists from around the world making it one of Delhi’s most famous religious attractions. The temple is open between 4:30 am to 1:30 pm and then again between 2:30 to 9 pm. Photography, mobile phones and cameras are not allowed within the temple premises.

Chhatarpur Temple
Situated in South Delhi or Chhatarpur, the Chhatarpur Temple is dedicated to Goddess Katyayani, a manifestation of the Navadurga. Founded by Baba Sant Nagpalji in 1974, the temple is the second largest in all of India after the Akshardham Temple also in Delhi. Popular for its fabulous lattice screen work or jaali design, the shrine’s architecture is an amalgamation of South and North Indian designs. Besides the presiding deity, the complex has smaller chambers dedicated to idols of different gods. The highlight of the temple is the opulent Shayya Kaksh which is the resting room for Goddess Katyayani and the room houses a bed and dressing table made of silver.

Sprawling over an area of approximately 70 acres, there is a sacred tree in the compound which is also worshipped. People tie a thread around it and make a wish and it is believed that the tree has the power to grant wishes made with faith. Navratri is the major festival at the temple. The temple compound has over 20 big and small shrines dedicated to various gods further divided into three major complexes. The shrine made for Goddess Katyayani is only open and accessible to visitors during the bi-annual Navratri festival. Adjacent to the chief shrine is the resting room of the deity, popularly called Shayya Kaksh. It has a bed and a dressing table carved out of silver, which is the major attraction of the temple. A different shrine of Goddess Durga is also present within the premises for the daily visitors. The temple has a facility for devotees to stay for a short while. The Dharamshala has 12 halls with a 30-people capacity and 36 rooms with a 6-people facility.

The temple is open daily between 6 am and 10 pm.

Jhandewalan Hanuman Mandir
Towering over the city, the 108 feet Hanuman idol is housed within the Hanuman Mandir complex in Jhandewalan. Located above the raised metro line between Karol Bagh and Jhandewalan Metro Stations, the gigantic statue is only one of the attractions of the temple, another prominent being the dramatic entrance designed like a mouth of a rakshasa or demon which has been slain and is waiting for its death. At the base of the statue, there is a small shrine dedicated to Goddess Kali. Tuesdays are the most visited days of the week.

Built in 1997, the temple can’t be missed. The evening aarti is the most important ritual as the arms of the giant Hanuman statue move back, the chest slides apart and beautiful idols of Goddess Sita and Lord Sri Ram appear to give darshan to the pilgrims. The temple is open between 5 am and 10 pm daily.

Kalkaji Temple
Located in South Delhi, the Kalkaji temple is dedicated to Goddess Kali who symbolises power and is the destroyer of evil. It is believed that the Goddess was exactly where the temple currently stands and it is also believed that during the Mahabharata, Lord Krishna and the Pandavas also worshipped Goddess Kali at this temple. The temple has its maximum visitors during the nine days of the Navratri festival, usually in October. The celebrations start with the devotees offering a milk bath to the idol after which a grand tantric Aarti is held in the morning and the evening.

Kali Bari Temple
One of the oldest Kali temples in Delhi, the Kali Bari Temple was constructed after years of demands from the Bengali community in the city. Located in Connaught Place, the temple is very close to the Laxminarayan Temple. An interesting fact about the temple is that Subhash Chandra Bose was the first President of the Kali Bari Mandir. Durga Puja, a sacred festival for the Bengalis is celebrated here on a grand scale.

Yogmaya Temple
The Yogmaya Temple is also known as the Jogmaya temple and is located in Mehrauli. It is dedicated to Goddess Yogmaya, sister of Lord Krishna. This temple is more than 5000 years old and has been destroyed multiple times during the Delhi Sultanate and Mughal periods. Despite attacks, the temple remains intact and sees thousands of devotees every year. The temple is also famous for its inter-faith festival, Phoolwalon-ki-sair Festival which has been ongoing since 1812 and is one of Delhi’s oldest religious traditions. It was rebuilt last in 1827.

Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir
Delhi’s best-known and oldest Jain temple, the Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir is located in Chandni Chowk, in the vicinity of Red Fort. Made entirely out of red sandstone, the striking building was originally built in 1658 and has undergone major modifications and alterations over the years. Popularly known as Lal Mandir or the Red Temple, the temple is dedicated to the 23rd Jain Tirthankara, Lord Parshvanath. Besides the huge statue of Parshvanath, the temple also houses idols of Lord Rishabhdev, Lord Mahavir and several other deities. The main devotional area is on the first floor.

The shrine is famous because of the massive avian veterinary hospital behind the main temple complex which is called the Jain Birds Hospital which comprises general wards and ICU. The temple is well known for its striking architecture, beautiful carvings, pure gold artwork and frescos.

After Emperor Shahjahan founded the city of old Delhi, he invited some Jain merchants to trade and granted them some land to the south of the Red Fort area in the Dariba Gali locality. With his permission, the merchants constructed a temporary Jain temple in the area which stands to date and acquired three prominent statues of Jain deities, the most important being Parshvanath. Between 1800 and 1807, Raja Harsukh Rai made some modifications to the temple and a royal shikhara was added and the was then called the Naya Mandi or the new temple.

A pillar of honour called the Manastambh stands in front of the main temple complex. The main meditation area is situated on the first floor accessible through a flight of stairs. Besides the major shrines of Parshvanath, Mahavir and Rishabhdev, the temple has several smaller shrines dedicated to other Jain deities. The compound also has a memorial dedicated to the popular Digambara Jain monk Acharya Shantisagar. In addition to the famous bird hospital, the complex also houses a tiny bookstore selling Jain literature books and accessories. Visitors are free to donate money to the charitable bird hospital which is open on all days between 8 am and 8 pm. In the summer between Holi and Diwali, the temple is open between 5:30 and 11:30 am and then again between 6 to 9:30 pm and during the winter months between Diwali and Holi, it is open between 6 am to 12 noon and then again between 5:30 to 9 pm.

Lotus Temple
A Baháʼí House of Worship, the Lotus Temple was dedicated in December 1986. Notable for its flowerlike shape, like all other Bahá’í Houses of Worship, the Lotus Temple is open to all. The building is composed of 27 free-standing marble-clad petals arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides, with nine doors opening onto a central hall with a height of slightly over 34 m and a capacity of 1,300 people. The Lotus temple is one of the seven Baha’i House of Worship present around the world.

The temple was designed by Fariborz Sahba and the major part of the funds needed to buy the land needed for the temple was donated by Ardishír Rustampúr of Hyderabad, Pakistan, whose will dictated that his entire life savings would go to this purpose. A portion of the construction budget was saved and used to build a greenhouse to study indigenous plants and flowers that would be appropriate for use on the site. Rúhíyyih Khánum laid the foundation stone for the Lotus Temple on 17 October 1977 and dedicated the temple on 24 December 1986.

The Baháʼí Faith teaches that a Baháʼí House of Worship should be a space for people of all religions to gather, reflect, and worship. The sacred writings of not only the Baháʼí Faith but also other religions can be read and/or chanted, regardless of language; on the other hand, reading nonscriptural texts is forbidden, as are delivering sermons or lectures, or fundraising. Musical renditions of readings and prayers can be sung by choirs, but no musical instruments can be played inside. There is no set pattern for worship services, and ritualistic ceremonies are not permitted.

All Baháʼí Houses of Worship, including the Lotus Temple, share certain architectural elements, some of which are specified by Baháʼí scripture. Baháʼí Houses of Worship must be nine-sided and circular. Baháʼí scripture also states that no pictures, statues or images be displayed within the House of Worship and no pulpits or altars be incorporated as an architectural feature. Inspired by the lotus flower, the design for the House of Worship in New Delhi is composed of 27 free-standing marble-clad petals arranged in clusters of three to form nine sides. The temple’s shape has symbolic and inter-religious significance because the lotus is often associated with the Hindu Goddess Lakshmi. The nine doors of the Lotus Temple open onto a central hall 34.3 m tall that can seat 1,300 people and hold up to 2,500. The temple has a diameter of 70 m and the surface of the House of Worship is made of white marble from the Penteli mountain in Greece. The Temple is designed in such a way that no external lighting is required to light up the huge prayer hall. The light filters through the inner folds of the Lotus and diffuses through the entire hall of the temple, functioning as a skylight. Along with its nine surrounding ponds and gardens, the Lotus Temple property comprises 26 acres and an educational centre beside the temple was established in 2017.

A short film on an outline of the Baha’i Faith in English is showcased in the temple. Short films are showcased every 20 minutes, from 10:30 am to 5:30 pm. Dusk and the evening hours are the best time to visit this temple, as its beauty is even more enhanced by the floodlights during this hour. As is the case with other stone monuments such as the Taj Mahal, the Lotus Temple is becoming discoloured due to air pollution in India. Specifically, the white marble is turning grey and yellow due to pollution from vehicles and manufacturing in the city, among other sources.

Prayers timings are 10 am, 12 noon, 3 pm and 5 pm for five minutes and a few prayers from different religions are chanted or read out loud. People are requested to not leave the Prayer Hall during this time, but wait until the prayers are over. The temple is open daily except Mondays. Between October and March, it is open between 9:30 am and 5:30 pm while between April and September, one can visit the temple between 9:30 am and 7 pm.

In My Hands Today…

Kidnap: Inside the Ransom Business – Anja Shortland

Kidnap for ransom is a lucrative but tricky business. Millions of people live, travel, and work in areas with significant kidnap risks, yet kidnaps of foreign workers, local VIPs, and tourists are surprisingly rare and the vast majority of abductions are peacefully resolved – often for remarkably low ransoms. In fact, the market for hostages is so well ordered that the crime is insurable. This is a puzzle: ransoming a hostage is the world’s most precarious trade. What would be the right price for your loved one – and can you avoid putting others at risk by paying it? What prevents criminals from maltreating hostages? How do you (safely) pay a ransom? And why would kidnappers release a potential future witness after receiving their money?

Kidnap: Inside the Ransom Business uncovers how a group of insurers at Lloyd’s of London have solved these thorny problems for their customers. Based on interviews with industry insiders (from both sides), as well as hostage stakeholders, it uncovers an intricate and powerful private governance system ordering transactions between the legal and the criminal economies.