Tag Archives: Bucket Lists

Travel Bucket List: Kyrgyzstan

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764367Recently a dear friend of mine moved to the mountainous central Asian country of Kyrgyzstan for work. So my Facebook feed has been filled with gorgeous pictures of amazingly blue skies and picture-perfect pretty lakes and meadows as she settles down in her new home. Seeing those pictures, I got intrigued by this country, whose name I couldn’t even spell and decided to find out more about this gorgeous place.

Wikipedia tells me that Kyrgyzstan is a landlocked, mountainous country in central Asia with a 2,000-year-old recorded history which encompasses a variety of cultures and empires. Because of its highly mountainous terrain, it has been able to preserve its ancient culture and because it has been at the crosswords of several great civilizations as part of the Silk Road, it has also absorbed those cultures which have passed through it. When the Soviet Union came into existence, Kyrgyzstan became a part of it and achieved sovereignty only after the break up of the erstwhile Union in 1991.

193389644ea17718c4e3ccf969e7f1e5-kyrgyzstanEthnic Kyrgyz make up the majority of the country’s 6 million people, followed by significant minorities of Uzbeks and Russians. Kyrgyz is closely related to other Turkic languages, although Russian remains widely spoken and is an official language, a legacy of a century of Russification. The majority of the population are non-denominational Muslims. In addition to its Turkic origins, Kyrgyz culture bears elements of Persian, Mongolian, and Russian influence.

The best time to visit Kyrgyzstan is between May and October, with the peak trekking season happening between June and September. The summers are extremely hot and dry, while winters (between November and March) are very cold and snowy. The climate is more moderate in the Issyk Kul Lake region.

Some of the places which are on my bucket list include:

1200px-ala-too_square_in_bishkek2c_kyrgyzstan2c_2007-09-11_28color-corrected29Bishkek: The capital city and the place where my friend is currently based in. Bishkek borders Central Asia’s Tian Shan range. It’s a gateway to the Kyrgyz Ala-Too mountains and Ala Archa National Park, with glaciers and wildlife trails. The city’s arts scene encompasses the monumental State Museum of Fine Arts and the collonaded Opera and Ballet Theater. The vast, central Ala-Too Square features the Manas monument, honouring the hero of the Kyrgyz Epic of Manas. The Soviet-era State History Museum, next to the presidential White House, explores the country’s history and ethnic groups. Dubovy Park is known for its oak trees and sculptures, while the nearby M. V. Frunze Museum preserves the birthplace of Mikhail Vasilievich Frunze, a prominent Soviet military leader who was born in the city. West of here, sprawling Osh Bazaar features traditional costumes and Kyrgyz produce. East of Bishkek, the intricately carved Burana Tower and its adjacent ruins mark the site of the 9th-century city of Balasagun.

issyk-kul-northIssy-Kul Lake: Issyk-Kul means “hot lake” translated from Kyrgyz. It is a salty and mineral rich lake that does not freeze even in the coldest of winters. More than a hundred rivers flow into lake yet not one of them flows out. It is the second largest mountain lake in the world, located at an altitude of 1607 meters and at its maximum, a depth of 668 meters. To give you an idea of the scale of the lake, it takes about nine hours to circumnavigate by car. If you take a tour of Issyk Kul, why not stop at Balykchy, Bokonbaevo, Barskon, or Cholpon Ata? Wherever you stop, you can’t fail to notice the stunning backdrop. Issyk Kul is surrounded by the Ala-Too Mountains, part of the Tian Shan range. There are several local legends about how the lake appeared, but we won’t spoil the surprise.

kyrgyzstan_ala_archa_national_park_03Ala Archa National Park: Just around half an hour away from Bishkek’s suburbs is a magnificent alpine national park. You can get closer to the mountains that form the backdrop to the city. The highest peak in the national park reaches 4895 meters and the Ala Archa range has more than fifty peaks. It is a favourite local haunt for picnics as well as being popular with tourists looking to do short hikes.

burana-towerBurana Tower: Built in the 11th century, the Burana Tower was once part of a flourishing Silk Road city called Balasaghun. Originally the tower was a minaret reaching over 40 meters in height and the earliest of such towers in the whole of Central Asia. Sadly, an earthquake in the 15th century destroyed the top half of the tower. Today it stands just over 20 meters high and you can even climb up it! Near the tower, you can also take a look at the small museum and have a look at some ancient stone carvings known as balbals.

song_kul_bannerSong Kul Lake: Song Kol Lake is a vast summer pasture, accessible only from June to September. Nomads graze their animals there as they have been for millennia. It is located at an altitude of 3016 meters, but don’t expect rugged peaks – it actually looks pretty flat. Song Kul is a freshwater lake that stretches for 29 km in length and about 18 km in breadth. Its maximum depth is only about 13 meters. If you head up there, you’ll enjoy sleeping in real yurts and feeling free just like your nomad hosts. Central Asia with yurts

kyrgyzstan-2016-139_newTash Rabat: Tash Rabat is a historic stone caravanserai. These were places used by merchants and their caravans on the ancient Silk Road. It is one of the best preserved of such places in Central Asia. You can sleep in yurts nearby or go horse riding. It was originally built as a Nestorian monastery and then turned into a caravanserai.

kyrgyzstan-oshOsh: Osh is the oldest city in Kyrgyzstan, celebrating its 3000th anniversary in 2000. It lies in the heart of the fertile Ferghana Valley. The centre of the city is occupied by Sulaiman-Too. This is a sacred mountain that has been continuously worshipped for millennia. You will see women sliding down stones in the belief that this practice will increase their chance of giving birth to healthy children. This is one of those perfect examples of longstanding traditions of the Silk Road, that combine prehistoric, pre-Islamic, Islamic and local beliefs into one holy site. Sulaiman is the local pronunciation of Solomon. It is thought that the throne of Solomon was once located on this mountain; some legends go so far as to say that he was buried there. Another important site in Osh is the 16th-century mosque of Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire.

peak-lenin-base-camp-tour-2-430832_1528384755Peak Lenin: Peak Lenin base camp is around one to three hours away from Osh, situated on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. At its highest point, it reaches 7134 meters. It is considered to be one of the easiest ascents to over 7000 meters by climbers. If you cannot get that high it is impressive even to enjoy the view of the peak from the first base camp which can be reached by car. Even in the hottest summers, you can admire the snow-capped peaks of the mountains of the Trans-Alay Range where the Tian Shan & Pamir Mountain systems come together.

alakol_lake_karakol_kyrgyzstanKarakol: Karakol is the administrative centre of the Issyk-Kul region. However although it isn’t located right on the shores of the lake, it’s easy to make day trips to the lake or to the nearby mountains. In the 19th century, it became a strategic point separating the Russian Empire from China and an important Russian military settlement was established there in 1869. It also attracted Chinese Muslims fleeing oppression in China. These two important events of history can be seen in Dungan Mosque and Karakol’s Orthodox Church.

broken_heart_at_djeti-oguz_28397671740629Djeti Oguz & Altyn Arashan: From Karakol, there are numerous opportunities to go for a hike or go horse riding. Local favourites include the Djety Oguz valley with its red cliff formations and Altyn Arashan that reminds people of Swiss mountain valleys. Djety Oguz means seven bulls. The colourful cliffs are the setting for beautiful and tragic local legends that you can hear during our Kyrgyzstan tour or other Central Asia adventures. Altyn Arashan offers one of the most beautiful Kyrgyz trekking routes and best of all, it’s easy enough that anyone can do it.

a22Sary Chelek Biosphere Reserve: Few places hold a candle to the Sary Chelek Biosphere Reserve. This 23.9 sq km piece of wilderness is remote, virginal, and spectacular. Untouched by the rest of the world, Sary Chelek contains 7 pristine alpine lakes, 157 bird species, deer, long-horned mountain goats, porcupines, and wild boar. Sary Chelek is located in the province of Jalal-Abad in between the Chatkal and At Oynok Mountain Ranges.

Writing this post has made me see just how beautiful Kyrgyzstan is. I really want to take a few weeks off and perhaps do some solo travel to this beautiful, but very underrated country. I do want to do this soon, before my friend’s tenure here ends and she goes back home! So are you having a serious case of wanderlust like me?

Travel to….Hanoi?

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The school holidays are almost here and instead of a planned trip to India, I am now thinking of other options. One destination which keeps coming to mind and which I have been looking at for a few years now is Hanoi and the Halong Bay cruise. So what should we expect from a few days in Hanoi? Read on…

Located on the banks of the Red River, Hanoi is one of the most ancient capitals in the world. Colonised by the French in 1873, the city was the administrative centre of French Indochina from 1883 to 1945. Because of its French colonial past, the city filled with broad, perpendicular tree-lined avenues, well-preserved colonial buildings, ancient pagodas, and unique museums within the city centre. After the reunification of Vietnam in 1976, it became the capital of the country. October 2010 officially marked 1,000 years since the establishment of the city.

Hanoi is known for its two main neighbourhoods, namely the French Quarter and Old Quarter. Both are packed with attractions, but easily accessible on foot. Of course, not forgetting the iconic Ha Long Bay which is the main reason for planning a trip to Hanoi. Some of the sights I want to really see, do and soak up in Hanoi are…

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The Old Quarter: The prominent district of the Old Quarter is relatively pedestrian-friendly compared to other cities in Vietnam – on weekends and evenings, the streets are closed off to motorised vehicles to make way for bia hoi bars and food stalls selling a variety of Vietnamese food. For a feel of rich old Vietnamese customs, you can also stroll along ancient commercial streets surrounding Hoan Kiem Lake, which are named after their original businesses dating back about 1,000 years. Located on the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake, Hanoi Old Quarter’s most popular attractions comprise mostly quaint Buddhist shrines, street markets, and traditional Vietnamese arts.

Imperial Citadel of Thang Long: The Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, is an intriguing relic of Vietnam’s history and, signifying its historical and cultural importance, was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2010. Also known as the Hanoi Citadel, many artefacts and items dating back to between the 6th and 20th centuries were excavated in 2004, including foundations of old palaces, ancient roads, ponds and wells. On top of these discoveries, archaeologists also found bronze coins, ceramics and pottery from China and many places in Asia, all of which demonstrate a close trading relationship in the area. Visitors should head for the display room that features interesting excavated items and mock-ups of the citadel itself. The site also has more modern resonance as the home to the D67 Tunnel and House, the headquarters of the Vietnamese People’s Army, from which war was waged from 1955 to 1975.

 

 

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Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum: The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is a place of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese people who come to pay tribute to “Uncle Ho”, the man who led the fight for an independent, unified Vietnam. Queues to see Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed corpse can stretch for hours outside the gigantic mausoleum, and once inside talking, photography and hands in pockets are banned.

 

Hoan Kiem Lake: The Hoan Kiem Lake in Hanoi attracts tourists and locals looking to get away from the noise and frenetic pace of the city. Peaceful and quiet, the lake surrounds Ngoc Son Temple, a pagoda sitting in the centre on a small island. The temple attracts many visitors and was built in commemoration of the 13th-century military leader Tran Hung Dao who was renowned for his bravery in the battle against the Yuan Dynasty. Homage is also paid to scholar Van Xuong and Confucian master Nguyen Van Sieu. The island on which the temple is built is known as Jade Island and is accessible by the iconic Huc Bridge or Rising Sun Bridge which is a charming scarlet-painted wooden bridge of classical Vietnamese design. The pagoda is also guarded by two towering posts decorated with Chinese writing. The lake and temple are probably the most famous places in Hanoi city in which to rest and enjoy the view and are a great place to sit back and watch the locals.

Water Puppet Theatre: The world-famous Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre in Hanoi has its roots in an art form that dates back to the 11th century. The tradition of water puppet theatre stems from a time when rice paddy fields were flooded and villagers would make entertainment by standing in the waist-deep water with the puppets performing over the water. Using large rods to support the puppets it appeared as if they were moving across the water with the puppeteers hidden behind a screen.

 

Don Xuan Market: Dong Xuan Market is the largest market in Hanoi and has a wide array of products for sale over four floors. Located on the northern edge of the Old Quarter, it is an imposing Soviet-style building, surrounded on all sides by merchant shops and stalls. It is a rough-and-ready type of market (some might even say ‘dirty’), especially in the ground floor wet market area. However, head up the stairs and you will find cheap items available at wholesale prices. It is quite an experience, even if you only leave with a pair of cheap sunglasses and a Vietnamese conical hat.

 

Hang Gai Street: Hang Gai Street is the best place in Hanoi to shop for high quality, fashionable silk materials, traditional Vietnamese apparel, and home furnishings. Also known as Silk Street, the entirety of this 300 metre-long street is lined with fashion boutiques and local tailor shops that have been operating for decades, where you can also order personally tailored suits and dresses that are made to measure. Set on the edge of Hanoi’s Old Quarter near Hoan Kiem Lake, Silk Street is renowned for its quality and choice of craftsmen.

 

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Halong Bay: You can do Halong Bay either as a full day tour or as an overnight one. I am leaning towards the overnight tour as that will give us an experience of sleeping in the cruise itself. Hanoi is only 170 kilometres west of UNESCO-listed Halong Bay, so just about every tour company in the city offers excursions at varying price points. A full day tour to Halong Bay is usually inclusive of roundtrip hotel transport, lunch, tour guide, and cruise along through the incredible scenery of the bay. You also get to explore some of the most popular limestone caves, floating villages, and islets such as Cat Ba Island and Bon Hon Island. Food may be a big issue with us (because we are vegetarians) and so this is something I need to figure out beforehand.

We all love coffee and so I am excited to try Vietnamese coffee at its very source! All in all, this post has made me excited to start planning our holiday to Hanoi. Has it whetted your appetite to visit this lovely city too?

 

Solo Travelling

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adventure alone daylight desert

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The older I get, the more solo travelling has started to appeal to me. S and I are completely different when it comes to travel goals and so as the children get older and I am not bound by their schedules.

But there seems to be a big societal deterrent to travelling alone, especially in Asian cultures. Solo travels these days, also seems to the domain of the young millennial. As a middle-aged woman, I have certain standards and so don’t fall into the same category. I like my luxuries and don’t think I can rough it out like the young set, and since if I travel alone, I will have the money to finance it, I don’t see it too much of an issue.

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So why is solo travel good for your soul?

It gives you the complete freedom to do what you want without having any regard for other people in your group. You feel like exploring a certain place in depth, go ahead and do that. On the other hand, if you just want to be a sloth on a particular day, that’s your prerogative.

You gain confidence in yourself. Since you have to depend only on yourself to do all the grunt work for and during your travels and this makes you get out of your comfort zone and forces you to interact with people of different strata. You may make friends with them, some of whom become life-long friends, but again, it’s your call how much further you want to take this.

You become comfortable in your own skin. When you travel alone, you are forced to eat and sightsee alone. I remember the first time I had to eat alone in a restaurant. It was very intimidating (I was travelling on business, not pleasure), but soon realised how much I enjoyed eating alone. I was free to read or watch what I wanted while I ate, without making small talk with people I barely knew and somehow since then, I would not mind eating slightly early or later just so I can eat alone. I am also more comfortable with myself than I was in my twenties. I recently even watched a movie alone in the theatre and found that I actually liked doing things alone.

sunset man

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You step outside your comfort zone. You are responsible for yourself when you travel alone and any hiccups along the way are yours to solve. This helps you develop problem-solving skills as well as the ability to think on your feet. This will stand you in good stead irrespective of what stage of life you are in.

Solo travelling strengthens your creativity. When you have the time to chill and be with yourself, you have the time and more importantly, the bursts of creativity to start on the book you’ve always been meaning to write or start any of the projects you wanted to do like knitting, needlework, embroidery etc.

One other benefit of travelling alone, for a reader like me, is to have the unlimited time to read. You don’t have others impinging on your reading time, while in the hotel room or even while moving from one attraction to the other. Actually, this is not just true of reading, but also of watching movies or anything you wanted to watch but didn’t have the time for.

It may make you happier in the long run. Research suggests that getting into vacation mode has the potential to increase our happiness levels. And spending time alone has also been shown to stave off depression.

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However, travelling alone makes you more vulnerable to attacks as you don’t have the safety of numbers and seeing a woman alone may make you the target of potential attackers and molesters. So you have to be very careful and have all eyes and ears open all the time. Make sure you guard all your belongings and dress with respect to local cultures and norms. In addition, always do your homework: find out the do’s and don’ts of an area prior to arrival.

Travel, in general, is one of the most beneficial life experiences you can have but there are even more benefits if you decide to do it alone. So what are you waiting for? As for me, I still have one more year before I am free to start to travel alone. Till then, I am going to make my solo travel bucket list.

My Bucket List – Bhutan

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One of India’s neighbours, a country which puts National  Gross Happiness ahead of everything, the last Himalayan Kingdom and a country with stunning natural beauty, it’s obvious that a country like Bhutan would be on my Travel Bucket List and is a place I want to visit sooner than later.

 

The country’s landscape ranges from lush subtropical plains in the south to the sub-alpine Himalayan mountains in the north. Since the 17th century, the official name of Bhutan has been Druk yul (country of the Drukpa Lineage, the Dragon People, or the Land of the Thunder Dragon, a reference to the country’s dominant Buddhist sect) and Bhutan only appears in English-language official correspondence.

 

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Thimpu – Source

Getting into Bhutan is slightly more difficult than other countries because there are restrictions for citizens of countries other than India, Bangladesh and Maldives who must have a visa before they get into the country. All tourists must book their travel through a local licensed tour operator (or international partner). Visas are applied for online by your local tour operator and it is not required that you visit a Bhutanese Embassy or consulate. Your holiday must be paid in full, via a wire transfer, to the Tourism Council of Bhutan account before a tourist visa is issued. The money remains with the Tourism Council until your travel in-country is complete before the local tour operator is paid. The total cost for a Bhutanese visa is $250 a day during tourist high season and $200 a day for low season. This includes basic accommodation, transportation, meals, plenty of bottled water and special entry fees. Discounts apply for minors and larger groups, while surcharges exist for groups smaller than 3. Surcharges also exist for upgrading hotels, transportation, and meals.

 

The only exceptions for having to book a tour as a condition for being allowed to visit are for those who receive a formal invitation to Bhutan from “a citizen of some standing” or a volunteer organisation, and those who come as guests of the Bhutanese government.

Ok, now to the nice parts – the stunning scenery and vistas which make people call Bhutan ‘the last Shangri La’

 

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Tigers Nest, Paro – Source

 

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Haa Valley – Source

 

Paro and Thimpu: Paro is the place where the international airport is situated. In Paro, you should definitely visit the Paro Dzong and the National Museum. Don’t forget to make you a have the stamina to make the hike up to the dramatic Tiger’s Nest, Taktshang Goemba, and visit lovely Kyichu Lhakhang.

 

In Thimpu, make sure you squeeze in a long day trip over the Dochu La to Punakha Dzong, the most beautiful dzong in the country and try to visit the Chimi Lhakhang, the temple of the ‘Divine Madman’.

Also, if time permits, go to the weekend market and visit Cheri Goemba or Tango Goemba in the upper Thimphu valley. If handicrafts are your thing, hit the National Textile Museum and National Institute for Zorig Chusum.

 

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Jigme Dorji National Park – Source

If you have more time in the country, try to go to on an overnight trip to the Haa Valley and also spend some time in the Bumthang Valley. Other places to visit, time permitting, include Mongar, Punakha, Phuentsholing, Samdrup Jongkhar, Trongsa, the various National Parks and Wildlife Sanctuaries including the Jigme Dorji National Park, Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park, Royal Manas National Park, Thrumshingla National Park, Bomdeling Wildlife Sanctuary, Khaling Wildlife Sanctuary, Phibsoo Wildlife Sanctuary, Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary and Toorsa Strict Nature Reserve

 

 

This post is now making me super eager to visit this beautiful country, the sooner than later. So if you have been to Bhutan or are planning a trip there soon, do comment below. I’d love to hear from you.

 

 

 

I’d Love to Visit….Mount Kailash and Manasarovar Lake

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I just finished reading Colin Thubron’s ‘To a Mountain in Tibet’ and the book reignited one of my life bucket lists. The book is an account of his travel from Kathmandu to the foothills of the sacred and mystic mount Kailash, which is revered by Hindus , Buddhists, Jains and the followers of the Bon religion. Hindus believe that Kailash is the earthly incarnation of the mystical mount Meru, which is the supposed to be the centre of the universe in Hindu mythology. Buddhists and Jains also believe in the sanctity of mount Meru and therefore Mount Kailash and so for members of all three religions, circumambulating or doing a parikrama of the mountain will wash off all sins. Hindus also believe that Lord Shiva, the Destroyer, one of the three Gods who form the trinity of the Hindu pantheon, also resides at the top of Mount Kailash.

 

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Mount Kailash Parikrama Map. Source 

This post is neither about the book nor about Hindu mythology. What it is instead is about Mount Kailash and Manasarovar Lake. Ever since I’ve heard of these two places, I want to go there. Both are in Tibet, which is now in China. But most importantly, both are at very high altitudes, around 15,000 feet above sea level. For someone born, brought up and living in areas which are at sea level, I need to be extremely fit to attempt climbing this high, for my lungs to be able to cope. I still want to do this, preferably before I am too old, but one can only hope.

 

 

Mount Kailash is extremely ancient, even predating the Himalayas according to the book. The mountain is probably an island in the ancient Sea of Tethys which was what the whole Tibetan plateau was before the Indian subcontinent (India was a continent then) collided with what is now the rest of Asia, the tectonic shift that was caused gave birth to the Himalayas. It is said, even today, fossils of marine animals can be found in Tibet. The four faces of the mountain also correspond to the four cardinal points and four of India’s rivers, Ganges, Sutlej, Brahmaputra and Indus also originate close to the base of the mountain.

 

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North face of Mount Kailash Source

The Indian government has a lottery where certain people get selected for the Kailash Manasarovar Yatra which is a pilgrimage officially sanctioned by the government and which enters Tibet through India. This trip is a longish one, through Himachal Pradesh and so pilgrims have a chance to slowly acclimatise themselves for the high altitudes. But I’ve heard that it’s quite difficult to get into this pilgrimage and also many people drop out during the process. You can also do this via private operators, most who are based in Nepal. I understand they fly you directly to Tibet from Kathmandu (huge amounts of elevations in altitudes in a matter of hours) and then you use vehicles to get as far as you can, and the balance is done by foot.

 

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Manasarovar Lake with Mount Kailash in the background. Source

Manasarovar Lake and Rakshas Tal are two lakes found in the base of the Kailash Mountains. They lie around 15,000 feet above sea level. Manasarovar is a fresh water lake, probably one of the largest at that elevation. Rakshas Tal, which lies next to it is, however, a salt-water lake and there’s a natural channel which connects the two of them. Hindu mythology has this lake as a manifestation of Lord Brahma’s mind and so is quite sacred. It is said, anyone drinking the water of this lake will be cleansed from sin over a hundred lifetimes.

 

 

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Yam Dwar or Lord Yama’s Door. Source

The first step or the start of the parikrama is a small door called Yama Dwar or Lord Yama’s door. Lord Yama is the Lord of Death (like the Grim Reaper in western thought) and the reasoning is that by going through this door, you get reborn. Another reason is that all of us have sinned at some point in time in life and it’s only a newborn who is pure of heart. So when you are reborn, you become pure and can complete the circuit without much difficulty.

 

 

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Gouri Kund Source

Then you start the parikrama. It is said a very fit person can complete it in 15-16 hours, but realistically speaking, for a normal person, not used to the high altitude and thin air, it should take at least two to three days to complete it, taking into account frequent rest stops on the way plus a camp at night. The average altitude for the parikrama is around 16,500 feet. You also see the Gouri Kund along the parikrama. This freshwater lake can be found during your descent from the Dolma Pass and is said to be a sacred place where Goddess Parvati seduced her husband and also the place where the Sky Dancers or Dakhinis in Tibetan mythology play and take bath in.

 

I loved writing this post and this has really allowed me to live through a virtual pilgrimage. I hope that in the near future before I am too old, I can actually do this physically as opposed to living it virtually!