Tag Archives: India

In My Hands Today…

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Coromandel: A Personal History of South India – Charles Allen

COROMANDEL . A name that has been long applied by Europeans to the Northern Tamil Country, or (more comprehensively) to the eastern coast of the Peninsula of India.

This is the India that highly acclaimed historian Charles Allen visits in this fascinating book. Coromandel journeys south, exploring the less well-known, often neglected, and very different history and identity of the pre-Aryan Dravidian south.

During Allen’s exploration of the Indian South, he meets local historians, gurus, and politicians and, with their help, uncovers some extraordinary stories about the past. His sweeping narrative takes in the archaeology, religion, linguistics, and anthropology of the region—and how these have influenced contemporary politics.

Known for his vivid storytelling, for decades Allen has traveled the length and breadth of India, revealing the spirit of the subcontinent through its history and people. In Coromandel, he moves through modern-day India, discovering as much about the present as he does about the past.

In My Hands Today…

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Lords of the Deccan : Southern India from the Chalukyas to the Cholas – Anirudh Kanisetti

The history of the vast Indian subcontinent is usually told as a series of ephemeral moments when a large part of modern-day India was ruled by a single sovereign. There is an obsession with foreign invasions and the polities of the Gangetic plains, while the histories of the rest of the subcontinent have been reduced to little more than dry footnotes. Now, in this brilliant and critically acclaimed debut book, Anirudh Kanisetti shines a light into the darkness, bringing alive for the lay reader the early medieval Deccan, from the sixth century CE to the twelfth century CE, in all its splendour and riotous glory.

Kanisetti takes us back in time to witness the birth of the Chalukyas, a dynasty that shaped southern India for centuries. Beginning at a time when Hinduism was still establishing itself through the Deccan, when the landscape was bereft of temples, he explores the extraordinary transformation of the peninsula over half a millennium. In vivid and colourful detail, Kanisetti describes how the mighty empires of medieval India were made: how temple-building and language manipulation were used as political tools; how royals involved themselves in religious struggles between Jains and Buddhists, Shaivas and Vaishnavas; and how awe-inspiring rituals were used to elevate kings over their rivals and subjects. In doing so, he transforms medieval Indian royals, merchants, and commoners from obscure figures to complex, vibrant people. Kanisetti takes us into the minds of powerful rulers of the Chalukya, Pallava, Rashtrakuta, and Chola dynasties and animates them and their world with humanity and depth.

It is a world of bloody elephant warfare and brutal military stratagems, of alliances and betrayals, where a broken king commits ritual suicide and a shrewd, hunchbacked prince founds his own kingdom under his powerful brother’s nose. This is a world where a king writes a bawdy play that is a parable for religious contestation; where the might of India’s rulers and the wealth of its cities were talked of from Arabia to Southeast Asia; and where south Indian kingdoms serially invaded and defeated those of the north. This painstakingly researched, forgotten history of India will keep you riveted and enthralled. You will never see the history of the subcontinent the same way again.

Festivals of India: Halla Mohalla

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A Sikh festival that celebrates the martial spirit and bravery of the Khalsa, the community of initiated Sikhs, Halla Mohalla was started by the tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh, in the 17th century, as a way of training his soldiers and showcasing their skills. The festival is held every year in Anandpur Sahib, Punjab, where the Khalsa was founded. It coincides with the Hindu festival of Holi but has a distinct identity and meaning.

The Halla Mohalla festival traces its origins to the 17th century, during the time of Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru. In response to prevailing social and political challenges, Guru Gobind Singh envisioned the festival as a platform to foster unity, resilience, and martial spirit among his followers. The term “Halla Mohalla” translates to “mock fight” or “mock battle,” reflecting the festival’s emphasis on martial arts, military exercises, and mock battles as a means of promoting physical fitness, discipline, and preparedness among Sikhs.

The main attractions of Halla Mohalla are the mock battles, the display of weapons, horseback riding, and the martial arts. The participants, called Nihangs, wear traditional blue robes and turbans and carry swords, daggers, spears, and rifles. They perform feats of agility, strength, and courage, such as breaking bricks with their hands, riding two horses at once, or throwing a spear from a moving horse. They also recite poems and hymns in praise of the Guru and the Khalsa.

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Central to the Halla Mohalla festival are the awe-inspiring displays of Sikh martial arts, or Gatka, showcasing the agility, strength, and precision of Sikh warriors as they engage in mock battles and intricate swordplay. The festival kicks off with grand processions and parades, featuring Nihang Sikhs adorned in colourful attire, elaborate turbans, and ceremonial weapons, symbolizing the valour and chivalry of the Sikh warrior tradition.

Halla Mohalla takes place immediately after Holi, the Hindu festival of colours, often coinciding with or following the day after. Unlike Holi’s playful colour-throwing, Halla Mohalla focuses on martial displays, reflecting the Sikh tradition of being warriors and readiness for defence. It celebrates the formation of the Khalsa, a community of committed Sikhs, upholding principles like equality, service, and justice.

Amidst the festivities, Halla Mohalla also offers devotees an opportunity for spiritual reflection and enlightenment, with religious discourses, prayers, and kirtan or devotional music sessions held at gurdwaras, the Sikh temples throughout Anandpur Sahib. They also take part in the langar, the communal kitchen, where free food is served to everyone, regardless of caste, creed, or religion. The festival promotes the values of equality, service, and brotherhood among the Sikhs and society.

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Anandpur Sahib, the birthplace of the Khalsa, serves as the epicentre of Halla Mohalla festivities, with pilgrims and devotees flocking to the sacred city to pay homage to Sikh tradition and heritage. At the heart of Halla Mohalla lies the sprawling Akhara complex, where Sikhs gather to engage in martial arts training, physical exercises, and spiritual rituals under the guidance of seasoned Nihang warriors. The festival is also marked by acts of seva, or selfless service and community feasts, where devotees come together to prepare and share the langar, or free communal meals, as a symbol of equality, unity, and solidarity.

Nihangs, also known as Akalis, are an esteemed order of Sikh warriors with a rich history dating back to the early days of Sikh military history. Nihangs are part of an armed warrior order within Sikhism, known for their distinctive blue attire and proficiency in martial arts. They played a crucial role in the military history of the Sikhs, often celebrated for their victories despite being outnumbered. Nihangs embody the spirit of fearlessness, commitment to justice, and readiness for martyrdom as taught by the Sikh Gurus. They are seen as the protectors of Sikh gurdwaras and the upholders of the faith, especially during times of conflict. Today, Nihangs also have a ceremonial role, representing the martial heritage and the spiritual ethos of the Sikh community. Nihangs hold a special place in Sikhism, symbolizing the courage, resilience, and unwavering dedication to the principles laid down by the Sikh Gurus. They are a reminder of the Sikh tradition of saint soldiers, committed to both spiritual and temporal duties.

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For Sikhs around the world, Halla Mohalla serves as a time to reaffirm their commitment to the core principles of Sikhism: equality, justice, compassion, and service to humanity. The festival inspires future generations of Sikhs to embrace their heritage, uphold their traditions, and embody the spirit of courage, resilience, and compassion that defines the Sikh faith.

In an era of rapid change and globalisation, Halla Mohalla serves as a symbol of cultural resilience, preserving the rich heritage and identity of the Sikh community for generations to come. The festival also promotes interfaith understanding and dialogue, inviting people of all backgrounds to partake in the festivities and experience the richness and diversity of Sikh culture and tradition.

In the kaleidoscope of festivals that adorn India’s cultural landscape, Halla Mohalla shines as a beacon of Sikh valour, spirituality, and tradition. As pilgrims and devotees converge upon Anandpur Sahib to partake in the festivities, they are reminded of the timeless values of courage, compassion, and community that lie at the heart of the Sikh faith.

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In a world marked by division and discord, Halla Mohalla stands as a testament to the power of unity, solidarity, and shared humanity. As we celebrate this cherished festival, let us embrace its message of peace, tolerance, and brotherhood, and strive to build a world where diversity is celebrated, differences are respected, and all people are treated with dignity and respect.

In My Hands Today…

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RAW: A History of India’s Covert Operations – Yatish Yadav

The Research and Analysis Wing, India’s shadowy external intelligence agency, is one of the country’s least understood institutions—at least in part by design. Perhaps fittingly for a spy agency, there is very little information about R&AW in the public domain.

What is this organisation, its structure, its role, and its vision? Why was it set up? Who are the people who run it? Set up in 1968 as a reaction to India’s massive intelligence failure during the war with China, R&AW played a crucial role in the formation of Bangladesh. It has since carried out highly successful covert operations in Fiji, Afghanistan, and Sri Lanka and has countered and foiled Pakistani spy agency ISI’s machinations in the subcontinent.

R&AW has operations in other parts of the globe too; it played an important role during the Iran-Iraq war, for instance. No country can increase its global reach without intelligence support. That India has made enormous strides in its stature and influence is testimony to R&AW’s success. Yet, public accounts of its work exist only in highly romanticised fictional stories. Investigative journalist Yatish Yadav follows the lives of real agents and maps their actions in real situations. His conversations with Indian spies provide insight into how covert operations actually work. A History of India’s Covert Operations is the first comprehensive account of Indian spy networks, their intelligence gathering, and their role in securing and advancing Indian interests.

Festivals of India: Chapchar Kut Festival

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Deeply rooted in Mizo culture, the Chapchar Kut Festival has an origin story dating back centuries. Rooted in centuries-old customs and folklore, this annual extravaganza captivates the senses with its colourful pageantry, lively performances, and spirit of camaraderie.

The festival traces its origins to ancient times when the Mizo tribespeople celebrated the arrival of spring and the onset of the agricultural season. As the winter frost receded and the land bloomed with new life, communities gathered to give thanks for the bountiful harvest and seek blessings for the year ahead.

The festival began around 1450–1700 in the village of Suaipui. The festival apparently originated when the hunters came back to the village empty-handed. To make up for the disappointment, the village chief proposed an impromptu feast with rice, beer and meat. Since then, every year, the festival has been repeated in the village of Suaipui and gradually spread to other villages. Thus, the Chapchar Kut was born—a celebration of resilience and community spirit. The festival originally served as a thanksgiving to the gods because during the clearing of forests on hill slopes for jhum cultivation or the shifting of agriculture, the people needed divine protection. Chapchar Kut marked the end of this arduous process, and the Mizo community expressed gratitude for their safety.

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Chapchar Kut was first revived in 1962 on a grand scale in Aizawl; however, it was discouraged when it was felt that it did not adhere to Christian values and rekindled pre-Christian cultural practices like the drinking of rice beer. However, it was revived once again in 1973 on a mass scale, sans animistic practice and the Cheraw dance. Even the church, which had been critical of the festival, no longer objected to the festival as it felt that traditional culture was disappearing. Chapchar Kut is now held annually in the month of March. People dance, perform skits, and play musical instruments to celebrate their beloved festival, with the aim of fostering camaraderie among the people.

In the early days, Chapchar Kut was a lively affair with plenty of drinking and eating. Young men and women danced through the night, celebrating life and unity, with women adorning themselves in traditional attire, including the Vakiria, a traditional Mizo shawl. The Chai dance traces its origins to this festival. Today, Chapchar Kut aligns with the drying period for trees and bamboo felled during jhum cultivation. The festival provides a well-deserved break for shifting cultivators.

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The Chapchar Kut Festival is marked by meticulous preparations and elaborate rituals that reflect the rich cultural tapestry of Mizoram. Weeks in advance, communities come together to clean and decorate their villages, weaving intricate patterns of bamboo and banana leaves to adorn their homes and public spaces. The festival provides an opportunity for Mizo men and women to showcase their traditional attire and finery, with vibrant costumes and elaborate headdresses adding to the spectacle of the occasion. From intricately woven shawls to ornate jewellery adorned with semi-precious stones, every garment tells a story of craftsmanship and cultural pride. Central to the Chapchar Kut Festival is the pulsating rhythm of music and dance, as performers take to the stage to showcase their talent and skill. Traditional instruments such as the khuang or the drum, the tuium or the flute, and the dawte or the gong set the beat for energetic performances that captivate audiences and evoke the spirit of celebration and joy.

Key activities of the festival include the Chhawnghnawh, a pre-Christian custom where boiled eggs are playfully stuffed into each other’s mouths. The Cheraw dance takes centre stage, accompanied by other traditional dances like the Khuallam, the Chheihlam, and the Chai. The Chapchar Kut Run, a spirited race celebrating physical fitness, is also held during the festival. As a nod to the Mizo heritage, traditional games and a costume parade is the highlights of the festival.

A highlight of the Chapchar Kut Festival is the Thangchhuah or traditional bamboo dance, where men and women form intricate patterns and formations as they dance to the rhythmic beat of drums and gongs. The dance symbolizes unity, harmony, and collective endeavour—a reflection of the communal spirit that defines Mizo culture. Food plays a central role in Chapchar Kut celebrations, with elaborate feasts and communal meals bringing families and communities together in a spirit of camaraderie and conviviality. Traditional delicacies such as bai, a rice-based dish, vawksa rep, smoked meat, and sa-um, fermented bamboo shoot, are prepared with love and shared with neighbours and guests.

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As part of the festival festivities, cultural exhibitions, and competitions are organized to showcase the diverse traditions and talents of the Mizo people. From traditional crafts and artwork to indigenous games and sports, these events provide a platform for artisans, performers, and athletes to showcase their skills and creativity.

While the Chapchar Kut Festival remains deeply rooted in tradition, it also reflects the evolving dynamics of contemporary Mizoram. Today, the festival serves as a catalyst for community engagement, social cohesion, and intergenerational dialogue, fostering a sense of belonging and pride among Mizo youth and elders alike.

In recent years, the Chapchar Kut Festival has emerged as a major tourist attraction, drawing visitors from across India and around the world to experience the vibrant colours, sights, and sounds of Mizoram’s cultural extravaganza. The festival offers a unique opportunity for cultural exchange and mutual understanding, as visitors immerse themselves in the customs and traditions of the Mizo people.

As Mizoram grapples with environmental challenges such as deforestation and climate change, efforts are underway to integrate principles of sustainability and conservation into the Chapchar Kut Festival. Initiatives such as tree planting drives, waste management programs, and eco-friendly practices aim to minimize the festival’s ecological footprint while preserving the natural beauty and biodiversity of the region.