Yesterday was Navroze which marked the beginning of the Persian calendar, and which in India, the Parsis celebrated as their new year! Navroz which comes from the combination of two words – ‘nav’, meaning new and ‘roz’, which means day means a new day. Cries of Navroz Mubarak and Saal Mubarak must have echoed across agriaries or fire temples across the country. This tradition began more than 3000 years ago, and is also known as Jamshed-i-Nouroz after the Persian King, Jamshed, who introduced the Parsi calendar. Legend has it that Jamshed saved the world from an apocalypse, a winter that was destined to kill everyone; by using a throne studded with gems and rising to the heavens on the shoulders of demons he shone brighter than the sun and gave birth to a new day, Navroz.
Navroze marks a new beginning and is celebrated with much fervour. The eve before Navroz is also known as Pateti, when Parsis rigorously go into cleaning mode externally too and get rid of all their unwanted belongings and possessions, in the hopes of cleansing themselves. People clean and decorate their homes, dress up in traditional attires, and visit fire temples to pray for prosperity and seek forgiveness for their sins.
I have written about the Parsis and Navroz also previously, so hop there to read more on some legends about this wonderful community!
The Parsis follow the religion of Zoroastrianism, one of the oldest known monotheistic religions. It was founded by the Prophet Zarathustra in ancient Iran approximately 3,500 years ago. One of the ancient world’s most important religions for over 1000 years, it was the official religion of ancient Persia from 650 BCE until the rise of Islam in the 7th century. When the Islamic armies invaded Persia, many Zoroastrians migrated, and a many of them landed in Gujarat in India. Today, there are an estimated 2.6 million Zoroastrians worldwide, with the Parsis in India being the largest single group.
In Iran and other parts of the Middle East, Zoroastrians celebrated the Persian New Year using the Fasli/Bastnai calendar, which fixed the first day of the year on the Spring Equinox, usually March 21st. To this day, this remains a popular festival, known as Nowruz, celebrated by many peoples and cultures in the region, despite not being Zoroastrians. The Parsis however, observe the new year using the Shahenshahi calendar which does not account for leap years, meaning this holiday has now moved by 200 days from its original day of the vernal equinox.
Growing up and studying in a Parsi school means that we had friends and classmates who celebrated this festival. Another unique feature of Parsi schools is that we used to get something called Gatha holidays. This used to a weeklong holiday just before the Parsi New Year. In our larger area, it was usually just our school and an another Parsi school nearby which had this holiday and I remember other friends who didn’t have this holiday being very jealous of us. Of course, this didn’t mean we got more holidays than others. We used to pay back the five days we got as holidays by having our Christmas holidays much later than the mission schools and also a few days before the Diwali holidays and the summer holidays. Other schools had a week-long break for other festivals which we didn’t have, so school holidays generally adjusted themselves.
The Gatha days are the five intercalary or timekeeping days which span the last month of the year and the first month of the new year. The Frawardigan, also known as Hamaspathmaidyem Gahambar, mukhtad or panji is a 10-day period during which the souls of the dead or the fravashi are commemorated. The ten days of Frawardigan span the last five days of the last month of the year, plus the five intercalary or Gatha days between the last month of the year and first month of the next year. Among Indian Zoroastrians, an extended mukhtad of eighteen days is also observed and this is the holiday we used to get. I also remember calling the Parsi New Year as Pateti, which I understand means a day of penitence which comes from the patet meaning confession. This is actually a day of introspection, and originally occurred on the last day, or on the last 5 days of the calendar year. For reasons related to single day occasions being observed over six days, Pateti came to fall on the first day of the New Year’s Day celebrations, and in India which folloed the Shahenshahi calendar, Pateti came to be celebrated on New Year’s Day itself. Although the name has been retained, Pateti is no longer a day of introspection.
To all those who celebrate the Parsi New Year, here’s wishing you Saal Mubarak and Navroze Mubarak!
Rosalind Benegal is a BBC correspondent who has spent years distancing herself from surreal memories of a childhood spent in India.
But lately, her long-lost sister, Miranda, has taken to sending Rosalind cryptic postcards all the way from Bombay. In swirling script, Miranda claims she’s being followed by a eunuch.
She alludes to her childhood fear of water. She hints that her husband may have murdered his first wife.
Miranda’s dizzying missives compel Rosalind to do what she would never do on her own…return to the land of her birth, to the country that still haunts her after twenty years abroad.
Yesterday was the Hindu festival of Krishna Janmashtami, also known as Janmashtami or Gokulashtami, an annual Hindu festival that celebrates the birth of Krishna, the eighth avatar of Vishnu. It is observed according to the Hindu luni-solar calendar, on the eighth day or Ashtami of the Krishna Paksha or the dark fortnight in Shraavana or Bhadrapad, depending on whether the calendar chooses the new moon or full moon day as the last day of the month, which overlaps with August/September of the Gregorian calendar.
It is an important festival particularly to the Vaishnavism tradition of Hinduism. Dance-drama enactments of the life of Krishna according to the Bhagavata Purana, such as the Rasa lila or Krishna Lila, devotional singing through the midnight when Krishna was born, fasting, a night vigil, and a festival on the following day are a part of the Janmashtami celebrations. It is celebrated particularly in Mathura and Vrindavan, along with major Vaishnava and non-sectarian communities pretty across India, each with their own unique spin in the festivities. This is followed by the festival of Nandotsav, which celebrates the occasion when Nanda Baba distributed gifts to the community in honour of Lord Krishna’s birth. This is a festival celebrated in the Braj region where on hearing about Krishna’s birth, all the villagers visited Nand Baba’s house to see little Krishna and congratulate Mata Yashoda. Nand Baba distributed ornaments, clothes, cattle and various other valuables among saints and sages, who bestowed blessings on Lord Krishna in return. In Vrindavan this festival is celebrated in the Radha Vallabh Temple. Panchamrit abhisheka and Maha aarti are performed in honour of the Lord’s birth. On this day people also celebrate ‘Govinda’ across many parts of India where devotees form small groups and break pots of butter called Maakhan Haandis tied to ropes on high rise buildings.
Krishna is Devaki and Vasudeva Anakadundubhi’s son and his birthday is celebrated by Hindus as Janmashtami, particularly those of the Gaudiya Vaishnavism tradition as he is considered the Supreme Personality of Godhead. Janmashtami is celebrated when Krishna is believed to have been born according to Hindu tradition, which is in Mathura, at midnight on the eighth day of Bhadrapada month which happens sometime in August or September of each year according to the Gregorian calendar. Born in an era of chaos and rampant persecution, Krishna’s birth was seen as a threat to life by his maternal uncle King Kansa and so to foil this threat, his parents Devaki and Vasudev were imprisioned by Kansa. Immediately following the birth at Mathura, his father Vasudeva Anakadundubhi takes Krishna across Yamuna, to foster parents in Gokul, named Nanda and Yashoda. This legend is celebrated on Janmashtami by people keeping fast, singing devotional songs of love for Krishna, and keeping a vigil into the night. After Krishna’s midnight hour birth, statues of baby Krishna are washed and clothed, then placed in a cradle. The devotees then break their fast, by sharing food and sweets. Women draw tiny foot prints outside their house doors and kitchen, walking towards their house, a symbolism for Krishna’s journey into their homes.
Hindus celebrate Janmashtami by fasting, singing, praying together, preparing and sharing special food, night vigils and visiting Krishna or Vishnu temples. Major Krishna temples organize recitation of ‘’Bhagavata Purana and Bhagavad Gita and many communities organise dance-drama events called Rasa Lila or Krishna Lila. The tradition of Rasa Lila is particularly popular in Mathura region, in northeastern states of India such as Manipur and Assam, and in parts of Rajasthan and Gujarat and these begin a few days before each Janmashtami.
Popularly called Gokulashtami in Maharashtra, the festival is celebrated with the breaking of the Dahi Handi the day after Janmashtami. Literally meaning “earthen pot of yoghurt”. The festival gets this popular regional name from legend of baby Krishna who would seek and steal milk products such as yoghurt and butter and people would hide their supplies high up out of the baby’s reach. Krishna would try all sorts of creative ideas in his pursuit, such as making human pyramids with his friends to break these high hanging pots. In Maharashtra, this Krishna legend is played out as a community tradition, where pots of yoghurt are hung high up, sometimes with tall poles or from ropes hanging from second or third floors of a building. Teams of youth and boys called “Govindas” go around to these hanging pots, climb one over another form a human pyramid, then break the pot. Its quite fun to watch, though can be very dangerous at times, especially when the pots are hung very high.
People in Dwarka in Gujarat – where Krishna is believed to have established his kingdom – celebrate the festival with a tradition similar to Dahi Handi, called Makhan Handi or a pot with freshly churned butter. Others perform folk dances at temples, sing bhajans, visit the Krishna temples such as at the Dwarkadhish Temple or Nathdwara. In the Kutch district, farmers decorate their bullock carts and take out Krishna processions, with group singing and dancing. The carnival-style and playful poetry and works of Dayaram, a scholar of the Pushtimarg of Vaishnavism, is particularly popular during Janmashtami in Gujarat and Rajasthan.
Janmashtami is the largest festival in the Braj region of north India, in Mathura where Krishna was born, and in Vrindavan where he grew up. Vaishnava communities here celebrate Janmashtami where Krishna temples are decorated and lighted up, attracting numerous visitors on the day, while Krishna devotees hold bhakti events and keep a night vigil.
Janmashtami is widely celebrated by Hindu Vaishnava communities of eastern and northeastern India. The widespread tradition of celebrating Krishna in these regions is credited to the efforts and teachings of 15th and 16th century Sankardeva and Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. They developed philosophical ideas, as well as new forms of performance arts to celebrate the Hindu god Krishna such as Borgeet, Ankia Naat, Sattriya and Bhakti yoga now popular in West Bengal and Assam. Further east, Manipur people developed Manipuri dance form, a classical dance form known for its Hindu Vaishnavism themes, and which like Sattriya includes love-inspired dance drama arts of Radha-Krishna called Raslila. The Shree Govindajee Temple and the ISKCON temples particularly mark the Janmashtami festival. Janmashtami is celebrated in Assam at homes, in community centers called Namghars and temples. According to the tradition, the devotees sing the Nam, perform pujas and share food and prasada.
Gokula Ashtami as the festival is called in South India is celebrated in Tamil Nadu with kolams or decorative pattern drawn with rice batter. Then footprints of baby Krishna are drawn from the threshold of the house till the pooja room, depicting the arrival of Lord Krishna into the house. A recitation of Bhagwadgita is also a popular practise. The festival is celebrated in the evening as Krishna was born at midnight. In Andhra Pradesh, recitation of shlokas and devotional songs are the characteristics of this festival. Another unique feature of this festival in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana is that young boys are dress up as Lord Krishna and visit neighbors and friends. Eatables along with milk and curd are prepared to make offerings to Krishna. Legend says that the Sree Krishna Idol installed in Guruvayur is from Dwarka which is believed to be submerged in the sea.
This festival is also celebrated with much joy and gusto outside of India where the diaspora lives. It is a public holiday in countries like Bangladesh and Fiji.
I used to enjoy celebrating it, especially when BB & GG were younger. We used to use them to make tiny footprints from our home’s entrance to our home altar. Since it is not a holiday here in Singapore, I didn’t make the traditional offerings, but would instead rustle up something after work and pray to baby Krishna. This year, I did make some of the traditional offering which was not too badam planning to make some of the traditional offerings, so wish me luck!
Bengaluru or Bangalore as I always think of it holds a special place in my heart. My paternal grandparents moved to Bangalore when I quite young, first to live with my uncle who was unmarried then and then they decided to spend their retirement years there after he married and moved out because they fell in love with the place by then. The Bangalore of the mid eighties to late nineties was a completely different place to the Bengaluru of today. We used to spend every single of our summer holidays there with our grandparents and I still have very fond memories of the time we spent there. Life was much slower than it was in Bombay and I remember office workers coming back home around 5 pm and around 8 pm, everyone used to be snug at home and the streets used to be deserted. Bangalore used to also be so green and the climate pleasant. In fact, when the power used to go off in May which is the hottest month of the year in India, our biggest worry was not the heat, but the fact that we could not watch television. The weather was so nice that even in the summer months we had to use blankets. Today, I doubt anyone in Bengaluru do this and probably need air conditioning to get through the summer months.
On to Bangalore which is today the third most populous city and fifth most populous urban agglomeration in India. The city which stands over 900 meters above sea level used to be called a Garden City and a Pensioners Paradise is today the second fastest-growing major metropolis in India and is regarded as India’s Silicon Valley or the IT Capital of India.
The city’s history dates back to around 890 AD, as seen in a stone inscription found at the Nageshwara Temple in Begur. The Begur inscription is written in Halegannada, which is an ancient Kannada script which mentions ‘Bengaluru Kalaga’ or the battle of Bengaluru. It was a significant turning point in the history of Bangalore as it bears the earliest reference to the name ‘Bengaluru’. In 1537 CE, Kempe Gowda, a feudal ruler under the Vijayanagara Empire, established a mud fort considered to be the foundation of modern Bengaluru and its oldest areas, or petes, which exist till today. After the fall of the Vijayanagar empire in 16th century, the Mughals sold Bangalore to Chikkadevaraja Wodeyar, the then ruler of the Kingdom of Mysore for three lakh rupees. When Haider Ali seized control of the Kingdom of Mysore, the administration of Bangalore passed into his hands. It was captured by the British East India Company after victory in the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War of 1799, who returned administrative control of the city to the Maharaja of Mysore. The old city developed in the dominions of the Maharaja of Mysore and was made capital of the Princely State of Mysore, which existed as a nominally sovereign entity of the British Raj.
In 1809, the British shifted their cantonment to Bangalore, outside the old city, and a town grew up around it, which was governed as part of British India. Following India’s independence in 1947, Bangalore became the capital, first of Mysore State and then of the new state of Karnataka, The two urban settlements of Bangalore, city and cantonment, which had developed as independent entities merged into a single urban centre in 1949. The existing Kannada name, Bengaluru, was declared the official name of the city in 2006.
Known for its gardens and green spaces, let’s start our visit of Bangalore with it’s most famous park, Cubbon Park. Spread over an area of 300 acres, Cubbon Park is a major sightseeing attraction rich in green foliage. It is a green belt region of the city and is an ideal place to recharge body and soul. The park is named in honour of Lord Cubbon, who laid the foundation for the park. It is home to more than 6,000 trees that support a vibrant ecosystem. In addition to being a natural sightseeing destination, some of the major structures of the city such as the Attara Kacheri, Cubbon Park Museum and Sheshadri Iyer Memorial Park are also situated here. Another famous attraction in the Cubbon Park is The Bangalore Aquarium, which is the second largest aquarium in India. Cubbon Park was originally spread over 100 acres, which was later extended to 300 acres. First established in the year 1870 by Sri John Meade who was the acting Commissioner of Mysore, Cubbon Park has a long history. Major General Richard Sankey, Chief Engineer of the state conceived this park in honour of Sir John Meade. Initially, the park was called “Meade’s Park” and later came to be known as the Cubbon Park. In the year 1927, the park was officially renamed as “Sri. Chamarajendra Park” to mark the Silver Jubilee of Sri Krishnaraja Wodeyar’s rule in Mysore State. The best time to visit the park is between September to February when temperatures remain mild and breezy. The park is open from 6 am to 6 pm and is closed on Mondays and the second Tuesday of each month. The park is open only for morning walkers from 6 to 8 am.
One of the oldest botanical gardens in India, the Lalbagh Botanical Gardens is not only one of the largest botanical gardens in India, but also the first of its kind, with planned routes, glasshouses and ornamental flowers growing throughout the property as well as for botanical artwork, scientific study of plants and also conservation of plants. The garden is spread over an area of 240 acres in the heart of the city and has nearly 1,854 species of plants. Its construction was commissioned by Hyder Ali in 1760 and completed by his son Tipu Sultan who designed the gardens keeping in mind the beautiful gardens of Sira in Tumkur. The garden features rare plants of French, Persian and Afghani origin and has attained the status of a Government Botanical Garden. The Lal Bagh Rock which is over 3000 years old and is one of the oldest rocks in the world is found in the centre of the garden and is a major tourist attraction. Visitors can also catch the sight of some rare birds including the myna, pond heron, purple moorhen, parakeets, Brahminy kites and the common egret.
This botanical garden, a delight for photographers, also consists of the famous glass house where a bi-annual flower show is held every year and is also a home to an aquarium and a lake. People travel from far and wide from India and even from abroad to witness millions of flowers, thousands of plants and the incredible artistry that goes into making the figurines and flower structures. The show takes place twice a year- once during January in the same week as the Indian Republic Day, and another time in August, during Independence Day. Each year, a different theme is chosen and flower arrangements are made according to the theme which is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily. Even though the best time to witness the show is in the morning when you can see all the flowers in full bloom and in all their vibrant colours, night time is a whole different experience. The whole Glass House lights up in a golden glow which makes the structures look even more magical and ethereal.
The botanical garden is open from 6 am to 7 pm daily with an entry fee of INR 25 for adults after 8 am. Children below the age of 12 can enter in free while to use a camera inside the garden requires you to pay INR 60 per camera. Make sure you keep at least half a day to soak in the atmosphere of the garden.
Located just 22 km from Bangalore’s city centre, the Bannerghatta National Park or locally known as BBBP for Bengaluru Bannerghatta Biological Park is a sanctuary for a large variety of flora and fauna and is a local favourite for nature and wildlife enthusiasts. Spread over a massive area of around 104.27 sq. km, this national park was established in the year 1971 and has a number of establishments within the park, including the country’s first butterfly park. The park was declared a biological reserve in 2002 and is also one of the only places in the world where one can experience wilderness in such a close proximity to the city. The park is also the first biological park in India which has a fenced forested elephant sanctuary covering an expanse of 122 acres and sponsored by PETA India.
In addition to a Zoo and the popular Jungle Safari, the Bannerghatta Biological Park also has a butterfly park and a rescue centre where the animals who were in captivity are conserved and protected. Other attractions include the ten Reserve Forests of Anekal Range of the Bangalore Forest Division, an aquarium, a Children’s parka, a Crocodile Farm, a Snake Park and a Prehistoric Animals’ Park. The best part about Bannerghatta National Park is the small well-defined zones for animals that almost guarantees that you will spot the animals. People go in caged vehicles during the safari.
The park is also home to a large variety of butterfly species and on the safari, you can catch a glimpse of various animals, including tigers, bears, deer, elephants as well as monkeys. You can also get to see many beneficial herbs and plants, like neem, tamarind, eucalyptus and sandalwood. Many people also visit the park due to the presence of several ancient temples in its premises. The Bannerghatta Biological Park is also a great place for photography, with shutterbugs getting an opportunity to capture a lot of amazing sights in their camera. Although open throughout the year, the best time to visit the park is between the months of October and February when the weather is cool and pleasant and perfect for spotting the blooming trees and wildlife. The first week of October is also the Wildlife Week in the city, with the Karnataka State Forest Department organising several wonderful nature programmes in the park. The park is open from 9:30 am to 5 pm on all days except Tuesdays. Most attractions within the park close around 5 pm with the Grand Safari opening between 10 am to 4:30 pm. The entry fee to the Park is INR 80 for adults and INR 40 for children for Indian nationals and INR 400 for adults and INR 300 for foreigners.
One of the largest lakes in Bangalore, Ulsoor Lake also called Halasuru is sprawled over an area of 50 hectares. Built by Sir Lewin Bentham Bowring, Bangalore’s commissioner at that time Ulsoor lake is the biggest lake in the city and a favourite boating spot for locals which take them to several of the small islands dotting the lake. The lake is an important venue for the Ganesh Chaturthi celebration when idols of the Lord are immersed in the lake at the end of the festival. The best time to visit is around August and September when you can witness the immersion of the Ganesh idols. The lake is also beautiful post monsoon from October to February. The lake is open every day except Wednesdays from 5 am to 8 pm and there is no entry fee to access the lake.
Located around 60 kilometres away from Bangalore, Nandi Hills used to be relatively unknown, but has now become a local favourite weekend getaway. Featuring beautifully carved arches and majestic pillars with intricately painted walls and ceilings, Nandi Hills is scattered with shrines and monument and is surrounded by mesmerizing views. Situated at a height of 4851 feet above sea level, the place was previously used by Tipu Sultan as a summer retreat, and several traces of the Sultan’s life and legacy can be found in the area. His summer residence called Tashk-e-Jannat, whose painted walls, intricate archways, high pillars and artfully crafted ceilings attract tourists and visitors even today can still be found there. The hills is also home to some famous temples and shrines including the Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple which is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his companions – Parvati and Nandi. One of the oldest temples in the area, the temple is an architectural wonder and pilgrimage spot. The hills are also famous for its trekking trails, cycling routes and adventure sports such as paragliding.
Built in the year 1878, the Tudor style Bangalore Palace boasts of massive courtyards, bright interiors, kingly grounds, splendid spiral staircases, stately towers and a luscious garden in a proud display of posh regality. Chamarajendra Wadiyar’s British guardians bought the original property in 1873 from the principal of Bangalore Central High School, Rev, J Garret for 40,000 rupees. The palace is vast and spread across 45,000 square feet and is built in a mixture of Tudor and Scottish Gothic architectural styles. The wooden structure of the palace along with the beautiful carvings both inside and outside showcases the royal culture in different ways. It is believed that the inspiration for the palace came from Windsor Castle in London.
The most prominent features of the Palace like the two-level granite structure of the fortified towers and turreted parapets take direct inspiration from the Tudor building styles. The entrance is decorated with grand Roman arches. The exterior of the building is covered in eccentric shapes and angles. The exterior walls are of a blushing cinnabar shade that gives the building a quaint Victorian vibe. The floor of the open courtyard of the Palace is adorned with granite seats covered with azure ceramic tiles. The ground floor also contains a beautifully decorated ballroom. On the first floor, there is a distinct chamber known as the Durbar Hall attached to an ornate staircase. The hall is famous for the enormous elephant head that is mounted in it and its gothic style tinted glass windows. The Palace houses some of the most famous paintings of the 19th Century, including the works of one of India’s most celebrated artists Raja Ravi Verma. You can avail of audio tapes, available in English and Hindi to understand its history. The palace is open from 10 am to 5:30 pm and the entry fee is INR 230 for Indian nationals and INR 460 for foreigners.
Originally built as a mud fort by Kempe Gowda I in 1537, Bangalore Fort was transformed into a stone fort by Haider Ali in 1761. Unfortunately, 20 years later, the fort fell into the hands of the British and the entire fort was dismantled and reconstructed into schools, hospitals and roads etc. Today, only the ruins remain of what was once a stronghold of Tipu Sultan; Delhi Gate and two primary bastions. The fort premises include several structures which include Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace. Also called Rash-e-Zannat or the Envy of Heavens, the Summer Palace was entirely made up of teakwood framework and Islamic interiors. Inside the ruins, you can see several artificial ponds, arsenals, rest areas and half a century old Ganpati shrine. The beautiful paintings and murals on the walls narrate the ruler’s bravery and chivalry and his hatred towards the British.
The fort was spread across a mile and was flanked by wide ditches which were commanded by 26 towers encircling its ramparts and protecting the palace from all the sides. In 1791, the fort was attacked by the British East India Company led by Lord Cornwallis, after killing almost 2,000 people. Following the bloody battle, the British Army captured the palace and ruptured through the walls during the Third Mysore War near the Delhi Gate. With an unusual oval shape, protected by thick walls, you can, even today see the marks caused by the British. One of the distinct features of the fort is a tall gate with three massive iron knobs that suggest guarded quarters and is reminiscent of the ancient Karnataka architecture with carvings of lotus, peacocks, elephants, birds and other elaborate motifs.
An exquisite example of Indo- Islamic architecture, the opulent palace was once used as a summer retreat by the king. The palace boasts of ornamental frescoes, magnificent arches, protruding balconies and brilliant motifs. The construction of the fort started during the reign of Hyder Ali and was completed in 1791, during Tipu Sultan’s rule. Among the several unique aspects of the two-storeyed palace are its stone plinths, exquisitely carved huge wooden pillars, glorifying brackets and its all- around idyllic and placid setting. The walls and ceilings are handsomely painted in vivid colours and intricately carved in beautiful floral patterns and designs that portray Indo-Islamic architecture. After the death of Tipu Sultan, the British used the monument for its Secretariat until about 1868, before moving to Attara Kacheri. Recently a small part of the fort has also been converted into a museum showcasing various events of the life and times of Tipu Sultan. The fort and palace are open all days of the week, except Sundays from 10 am to 5:30 pm and from 8:30 am to 5 pm on Sundays and entry fees are INR 5 for Indians and INR 200 for foreigners. You also need to pay INR 25 per camera you plan on taking inside the fort and palace.
The Devanahalli Fort is located 35 kms north of Bangalore and is a living example of the extensive battles fought and won. In ruins today, the fort once was the birthplace and residence of Tipu Sultan. Sprawling over a vast area of 20 acres, the building is essentially made of stone and mortar and was originally built in 1501 by the Mallebyre Gowda during the reign of Saluva Dynasty, until the Dalwai of Mysore Nanjarajaiah occupied it in 1749. Later it was taken over by Hyder Ali before finally being passed on to Tipu Sultan. The fort boasts of twelve semi-circular bastions, each with a gun-point view and a spacious battlement. The entrances, though relatively small are decorated with cut- plasterwork, and the main attraction is the chief residence of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. The memorial is a six foot tall enclosure with pillars. The fort is currently a residence for many as several families inhabit the place. Among the umpteen temples located inside the premises of the fort, the Venugopalswamy temple is the oldest and houses several idols of local deities. Other temples include the Siddheswar Swamy temple, the Raghabendraswamy Math, the Chandramouleswar Temple etc. Though in a dilapidated state and crumbling with most of the walls covered in graffiti, the fort manages to retain some of its yesteryear grandeur and glory. The best time to visit the fort is during the summer season due to the many mango and tamarind plantations which bear fruit in summer and which you can enjoy while visiting the fort. Although the fort is open 24 hours a day for the visitors, it is advisable to visit during the day time.
Described by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru as ‘a temple dedicated to the nation’, the Vidhana Soudha, which is influenced by the House of Commons in London, houses the State Legislature and the Secretariat of the Karnataka State is the largest state legislative building in the country. With four entrances in all four directions and four floors above the ground level and one below it, the structure is known as the ‘Taj Mahal of South India’ and is seen as one of the most magnificent buildings in the city. The entire monument is illuminated on Sundays and public holidays, usually between 6-8 pm and is a sight for sore eyes. The foundation stone was laid down by the then Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru along with then Karnataka Chief Minister K.C. Reddy on 13 July 1951 construction took five years and it was inaugurated in 1956. The Vidhana Soudha stands 150 feet tall and boasts of an elegant and truly exquisite Neo-Dravidian style of architecture. Spread over an expanse of 60 acres, this stunning white building has many carved pillars, pediments, bases, arches as well as cornices. With four different floors, the building has a porch on its eastern side, with 12 huge columns of granite. Additionally, the central dome of the building is supported by eight pillars, with a crown of the four-headed lion, the national emblem of the country. The structure has almost 300 rooms, which accommodate around twenty-two different departments of the State Government. As of now, its replica, called the Vikasa Soudha has been built by the Karnataka Government adjacent to it, which acts as a secretariat building. The Vidhan Soudha is open from 10 am to 5:30 pm and is closed on weekends and public holidays. You do need to take permission to enter as this is a highly sensitive building.
The Bull Temple, also known as Nandi Temple, is one of the oldest temples in Bangalore. Popularly called the ‘Dodda Basavana Gudi’ by locals, the temple is the biggest temple dedicated to Nandi in the world and is located the Bugle Rock park. Nandi or the bull in Hindu mythology is the mount or vahana of Lord Shiva and the guardian deity of Lord Shiva’s abode, Kailashagiri; according to Hindu traditions. This temple is a must-visit destination because Nandi holds great importance to Lord Shiva. The architectural style of the Bull Temple is mainly Dravidian and was constructed by Kempe Gowda. It is believed that the origin of the river Vrishabhavati is at the feet of Nandi. The entire sculpture of the bull is carved out of one single granite rock. The statue is 4.5 meters high and 6.5 meters long. Coconut oil and butter which are regularly applied to this statue has led to the originally grey statue to turn black. On the premises of the Bull Temple, there is also a beautiful temple of Ganesh, the beloved son of Lord Shiva. An interesting fact about this temple is that the statue of Lord Ganesh is made entirely of butter! It takes about 110 kilos of butter to make this artistic statue, and a new statue is made every four years. What is really astonishing and noteworthy is that in the four-year tenure of each butter sculpture, the butter doesn’t melt or change shape even once. The butter that makes the statue of the deity is then distributed to the devotees as Prasad or offerings. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 8 pm.
Built in 1972, the Ragigudda Sri Prasanna Anjaneya temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman for his unconditional divinity and devotion towards Lord Sri Rama. Located on top of a quaint hillock, believed to have originated out of a mound of Ragi or Finger Millet in the Jayanagar area, the temple houses a Shivaling in addition to a huge gorgeous idol of Hanuman and beautiful shrines of Ram, Sita and Lakshman. Spread over 5 acres, the temple complex boasts of a beautiful water tank called the Pushkarni, an auditorium, a tiny prasad division and an amphitheatre. It also flaunts an artificially created waterfall which prettifies the already enchanting hill top view. The temple has gained immense popularity in the last few years with the foot of the shrine having tiny temples of Lord Ganesha, Rajarajeshwari, Devi and the Navgrahas. The most important festival of the temple is the Hanuman Jayanti, which is a 12- day long festival and is a grand event, celebrated with a lot of zeal and fervour. The temple is open from 8 am to 12 noon and again from 5 to 8:30 pm on weekdays and from 8 am to 1 pm and then again between 5 to 8:30 pm on weekends.
Located in the suburbs of Ulsoor, the Halasuru Someshwara Temple is dedicated to the Hindu deity Lord Shiva. Dating back to the Chola period, the temple is the oldest in Bangalore and was built around the 12th and the 13th centuries by the Hoysalas, but major modifications and additions were made during the Vijayanagar empire. Today the temple is managed and maintained by the Endowment Department of the Karnataka government. There is an interesting story about the temple’s origin which goes that once Kempe Gowda travelled far away from his town while hunting and he took rest napping under a tree where he dreamt that Lord Someshwara asked him to construct a temple using the treasure buried there. The most fascinating feature of the temple are the elaborate sculptures of Ravana holding the Kailash Parvat to please Lord Shiva, Goddess Durga slaying the demon Mahishasura, scenes from the wedding of Lord Shiva and Parvati, images of the Saptarishis etc. Constructed in the Vijayanagar style of architecture, the shrine has beautiful carvings on the walls and serene interiors. Other than the main temple, the premises are dotted with smaller shrines of other deities including Kamakshamma, Arunachaleswara, Bhimeswara, Nanjundeswara and Panchalingeswara. The temple is very popular among the locals and you can see throngs of worshippers, especially during the time of Mahashivrathri. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 12 noon and again from 5:30 to 9 pm but the best time to visit the temple is either during the early morning or in the evening.
Built in the 16th century by Kempe Gowda, the rock-cut architectural temple is also known as the Gavipuram Cave Temple. In the forecourt of the temple lies mysterious stone discs that allow the sun’s rays to shine on the shrine during a particular time of a year. The temple is basically carved on a rock where the major sections of the outside appearance include monolithic pillars and two fans on the patio where the pillars represent Trishul and Damaru. The two granite pillars holding the gigantic disks of the Sun and the Moon and the other two showcasing several Nandi bulls are some of the outer features of the temple with few other monolithic structures. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva where on the day of Makar Sankranti the arc over the horns of Nandi allows the sunbeams to pass through the cave and illuminate the Shiva lingam. This unique phenomenon and the technical excellence of this cave temple attracts devotees from all over the world to witness the surreal sight. The temple is located in the Gavipuram area which is about 3 km from the city market. The best time to visit is during the Maha Shivratri celebrations or during the sunrise time. Otherwise the the temple is open from 6 am to 8 pm on all days of the week.
Built in 1882, the St. Mary’s Basilica is the oldest church in Bangalore and is the only church in the state that has been elevated to the status of a minor basilica. A spacious gothic-style Church built in the form of a cross, designed by a French architect, the basilica is 172 feet long and 50 feet broad. The imposing and magnificent tower forming the facade of the Church is 160 feet in height. A beautiful statue of Mother Mary holding Child Jesus in her arms, 6 feet in height, is set up in an attractive shrine just outside the Church building. The exterior is built in the shape of a cross arranged in gothic style architecture by a French artist. Every day, Our Mother Mary is draped in a saree, and it is said that when the new Church was built, people tried to remove this statue to install it on a prominent altar inside the Church, but they failed in their effort since the statue remained immovable. This strange occurance is considered to date a sign of Our Lady’s miraculous power. The Main Feast of the Church is celebrated with all grandeur on the 8th of September, the Feast day of the Nativity of Blessed Virgin Mary, every year. This feast, which is celebrated for 10 days annually, is considered one of utmost importance by the people, in the whole of the Archdiocese and the state of Karnataka. It is a marvellous sight to behold with its towering façade, glass windows and the loving statues of Mother Mary. On the tenth day, which falls on the 8th of September, is celebrated as the birthday of Mother Mary where the entire church brims with colors and joys followed by conducting social services that include feeding the needy and underprivileged. The best time to visit is in September during the feast of St. Mary and the basilica is open daily between 6 am to 8 pm.
Named of the founder of Bengaluru, the Kempegowda Museum is situated on the first floor of Mayo Hall. The enticing glass floor with an 18th-century map that runs throughout is one of the enticing features of the museum and second being the fiberglass statue of Kempe Gowda in the center of the museum. It is an interesting place to visit for the archeology and history buffs as it exhibits paintings and statue of the time when Kempe Gowda actually initiated the foundation or the blueprint of the town, the four towers which marked the boundary of the city with various old names for the places which are recognized differently today. Located in the Ashok Nagar suburb, the best time to visit is during the weekday when it is not as packed as it usually gets during weekends. Open from 10 am to 5 pm daily on weekdays, you need to pay INR 50 for an adult and INR 30 for a student as entry fee.
The HAL Aerospace Museum was inaugurated in 2001 at the Hindustan Aeronautics Limited premises, the museum being established with the objective of educating the public about the journey of HAL, one of Asia’s largest and most important aeronautical companies, be it historical, scientific or academic. The museum proudly boasts of the giant leaps Indian aviation has taken, both commercially as well as in terms of defence, giving the visitors an all-inclusive aerospace experience in the most effective environment possible. The museum gives the visitor the best possible insight into the aeronautical history of HAL and India – its experiments, achievements and possibilities; and at the same time, they also get to have a glimpse of some of the most powerful possessions of the Indian Air Force. Currently, the HAL Heritage Centre and Aerospace Museum together form the most massive aeronautical complex of South Asia in terms of production, maintenance, development and exhibition of fighter and commercial aircrafts, helicopters and all their engineering parts and accessories. If you are an aviation enthusiast, this museum can’t be missed if you are in Bangalore. The museum is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm on all days of the week. Adults pay INR 50 to enter while entry is free for children under three years of age. Students upon showing a valid ID and children between the ages of 4 to 18 pay INR 30. You need to pay INR 50 for bringing in a still camera while it costs INR 75 to bring inside a video camera. If you want to have a go at the simlutators in the museum, you need to pay INR 50 for the Basic Simulator Game and INR 100 for the Motion Simulator.
Built to honour the famous scientist and Bharat Ratna receipient, Sir M Visvesvarya, the Visvesvaraya Industrial and Technological Museum, spread over an area of 43,000 sq feet is located in Kasturbha Road amongst the Cubbon Park area. The museum was inaugurated by India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, in 1962. The place is utterly engaging for both children and adults who once enter the building get engrossed various age-old fossils, mechanical gadgets, and gears, information on space with space models, satellite, electrical, biotech and chemistry models etc. The first ever gallery exhibition displayed by the museum was based on the principles of Electricity and was open to the public on the 27 July 1965. Designed on the theme of a Science Museum, the museum houses four floors dedicated to a scientific discipline each, with the topmost floor, the fifth floor which is now converted into a food court. The museum’s décor has been inspired by the ancient scientific tools and machinery like Wright Brothers’ Kitty Hawk, flying stimulators and other similar objects. The backdrop shows surreal pictures and animations of changing the climate, various sea and land dynamics and different planetary positions. The centre has seven permanent gallery displays consisting of copious exhibits of a steam engine, aeroplanes, motor power etc. In addition to this, the museum has a virtual gaming zone, a tiny planetarium and a 3D visual display centre for recreation. The centre aims to promote the importance of science in everyday life by its interactive demonstrations and by conducting experiments. Open from 10 am to 6 pm daily, adults need to pay INR 50 as entry fees.
This was Bangalore or Bengaluru and in the next post, we’ll visit Mysore or Mysuru as it’s called now as well as some other places.
The southwestern state of Karnataka was formed on 1 November 1956, with the passage of the States Reorganisation Act. Originally known as the State of Mysore, it was renamed Karnataka in 1973 and the state corresponds to the Carnatic region with the capital and its lagest city being Bengaluru.
The state is bordered by the Arabian Sea to the west, Goa to the northwest, Maharashtra to the north, Telangana to the northeast, Andhra Pradesh to the east, Tamil Nadu to the southeast, and Kerala to the south. It is the only southern state to have land borders with all of the other 4 southern Indian sister states. The state covers an area of about 5.83 percent of the total geographical area of India and is the sixth largest Indian state by area and the eighth largest state by population. Karnataka is the fourth largest state in terms of economy. The state language is Kannada, which is one of India’s classical languages. One unique aspect of Karnataka is that the state contains some of India’s only villages where the ancient language of Sanskrit is primarily spoken.
The generally accepted notion for the state name is that the word Karnataka is derived from the Kannada words karu and nādu, which means “elevated land”. Karu Nadu may also be read as karu, meaning “black” and nadu, meaning “region”, as a reference to the black cotton soil found in the Bayalu Seeme region of the state. The ancient Tamil scripture, Shilappadigaram has references to Karunaadaar, which refer to this region, which some experts believe is the sanskritised version of Kannadar referring to the two tribes of Kanna and Nadar who lived in this area. There is also some reference to Karnata Desa in ancient texts which could also be why the state got the name Karnataka. The early references to Karnata Desa can be found in texts like Sambhava Parva and Bhisma Parva of the Mahabharata. The British used the word Carnatic, sometimes Karnatak, to describe both sides of peninsular India, south of the Krishna.
With an antiquity that dates to the paleolithic, Karnataka has been home to some of the most powerful empires of ancient and medieval India. The philosophers and musical bards patronised by these empires launched socio-religious and literary movements which have endured to the present day. Karnataka has contributed significantly to both forms of Indian classical music, the Carnatic and Hindustani traditions.
Karnataka’s pre-history goes back to a paleolithic hand-axe culture as evidenced by discoveries of, among other things, hand axes and cleavers in the region. Gold discovered in Harappa was found to be imported from mines in Karnataka, prompting scholars to hypothesise about contacts between ancient Karnataka and the Indus Valley Civilisation. Prior to the third century, most of Karnataka formed part of the Nanda Empire before coming under the Mauryan empire of Emperor Ashoka. Four centuries of Satavahana rule followed, allowing them to control large areas of the state. The decline of Satavahana power led to the rise of the earliest native kingdoms, the Kadambas and the Western Gangas, marking the region’s emergence as an independent political entity. The Kadamba Dynasty, founded by Mayurasharma, had its capital at Banavasi in northern Karnataka while the Western Ganga Dynasty was formed with Talakad as its capitalclose to the border with Tamil Nadu. These were also the first kingdoms to use Kannada in administration.
These were followed by imperial Kannada empires such as the Badami Chalukyas, the Rashtrakuta Empire of Manyakheta and the Western Chalukya Empire, who ruled over large parts of the Deccan and had their capitals in what is today the state of Karnataka. The Western Chalukyas patronised a unique style of architecture and Kannada literature which became the precursor to the Hoysala art of the 12th century. Parts of modern-day Southern Karnataka, also known as Gangavadi were occupied by the Chola Empire at the turn of the 11th century. In early 12th century, this region was the bone of contention between the Cholas and the Hoysalas before eventually coming under Hoysala rule.
At the turn of the first millennium, the Hoysalas gained power in the region. Literature flourished during this time, which led to the emergence of distinctive Kannada literary metres and the construction of temples and sculptures adhering to the Vesara style of architecture and the expansion of the Hoysala Empire brought minor parts of modern Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu under its rule. In the early 14th century, Harihara and Bukka Raya established the Vijayanagara empire with its capital, Hosapattana, later named Vijayanagara, on the banks of the Tungabhadra River in modern Bellary district. The empire rose as a bulwark against Muslim advances into South India, which it completely controlled for over two centuries.
In 1565, Karnataka and the rest of South India experienced a major geopolitical shift when the Vijayanagara empire fell to a confederation of Islamic sultanates in the Battle of Talikota. The Bijapur Sultanate, soon took control of the Deccan but was defeated by the Mughals in the late 17th century. The Bahmani and Bijapur rulers encouraged Urdu and Persian literature as well as the Indo-Saracenic architecture, the Gol Gumbaz being one of the high points of this style. During the 16th century, Konkani Hindus migrated to Karnataka, mostly from Salcette, Goa, while during the 17th and 18th centuries, Goan Catholics migrated to the North Canara and South Canara regions, as a result of food shortages, epidemics and heavy taxation imposed by the Portuguese.
In the period that followed, parts of northern Karnataka were ruled by the Nizam of Hyderabad, the Maratha Empire, the British, and others. The Mysore Kingdom, a former vassal of the Vijayanagara Empire, in south Karnataka was briefly independent, but with the death of Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar II, Haidar Ali, the commander-in-chief of the Mysore army, gained control of the region. After his death, the kingdom was inherited by his son Tipu Sultan, both of whom four significant Anglo-Mysore wars to contain the European expansion in South India, the last of which resulted in Tippu Sultan’s death and the incorporation of Mysore into the British Raj in 1799. The Kingdom of Mysore was restored to the Wodeyars and Mysore remained a princely state under the British Raj.
Dissent and resistance from princely states from across the country fanned the flames of rebellions in Karnataka in 1830 and by the late 19th century, the independence movement had gained momentum leading to India’s independence in 1947. After independence, the Maharaja of Mysore, Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar, acceded his kingdom’s to India and in 1950, Mysore became an Indian state of the same name with the former Maharaja serving as its Rajpramukh or head of state until 1975. Following the long-standing demand of the Ekikarana Movement, the Kodagu and Kannada-speaking regions from the adjoining states of Madras, Hyderabad and Bombay were incorporated into the Mysore state, under the States Reorganisation Act of 1956 and the newly expanded state was renamed Karnataka, in 1973.
The state has three principal geographical zones – the coastal region of Karavali, the hilly Malenadu region comprising of the Western Ghats and the Bayaluseeme region comprising the plains of the Deccan Plateau. The bulk of the state is in the Bayaluseeme region, the northern part of which is the second-largest arid region in India.
The diverse linguistic and religious ethnicities native to the state, combined with their long histories, have contributed immensely to the varied cultural heritage of Karnataka. Apart from Kannadigas, Karnataka is home to the Tuluvas, Kodavas and Konkanis. Minor populations of Tibetan Buddhists and tribes like the Soligas, Yeravas, Todas and Siddhis also live here. Yakshagana of Malnad and coastal Karnataka, a classical dance drama, is one of the major theatrical forms of Karnataka. Sringeri in previously. The Dusshera festival of Mysore is a highlight of the state and is famous all over the world.
In terms of tourism, the state has something for everyone. Be it ancient sculptured temples, modern cities, scenic hill ranges, forests or beaches, this state has everything. Karnataka has been ranked as the fourth most popular destination for tourism among the states of India and has the second highest number of nationally protected monuments in India, second only to Uttar Pradesh. In addition to 752 monuments protected by the State Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, there are 25,000 monuments yet to receive protection.
As I explore each state, I will start with the capital city of Bengaluru which is very close to my heart, then it’s cultural heart, Mysuru followed by other major cities and then some beaches from its coastline, wildlife reserves and hillstations. So let’s explore Bengaluru in our next post.
Memories and Such 