Travel Bucket List: India – Andaman & Nicobar Islands Part 3

Posted on September 23, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Today’s post and the next few posts will be about why people visit the Andaman and Nicobar Islands – for it’s islands and beaches. The first few beaches are those which are close to Port Blair and then we will island hop with interesting beaches and attractions from each island.

Corbyn’s Cove Beach: An unspoiled beach situated around 8 Km away from the heart of the city, Corbyn’s Cove Beach is a local favoutite. This mesmerising beach is dotted with coconut palms and has a turquoise blue sea water which is entrancing in its beauty. Apart from being a natural treasure, Corbyn’s Cove is also one of the best places to enjoy water sports. From Jet skiing to boating, surfing to swimming, there are endless ways by which you can quench your thirst for adventure and water spots here. Corbyn’s Cove beach is situated in close proximity to Snake Island, a place which is supposed to be full of snakes, also also well-known for attractive fishes, colorful corals, and rock faces. Whether you wish to explore the quirky underwater world or soak in the charm of this silent beach, at Corbyn’s Cove you can spend your day the way you want. On the side of the beach at Corbyn’s Cove, you will also get to see several blue colored chairs from where one can admire the ethereal beauty of this place.

Wandoor Beach: A small village in the southern part of South Andaman, Wandoor is most recognized for the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, which is among the regions with the richest marine biodiversity. Apart from being a local favourite, Wandoor Beach is famous is its rich biodiversity. Wandoor is easily accessible and is only 1-2 hour bus ride away from Port Blair. This beach is excellent for swimming as well as to enjoy the coral reefs. You can also just sit by the beach and enjoy the clear blue waters and spotless white sand.

Viper Island: Named after the vessel in which Lt. Archibald Blair came to Andaman and Nicobar in 1789 and many years before the Cellular Jail was constructed, Viper Island was used by the British to keep freedom fighters in exile. Another local legend says that the name of the island comes from the numerous vipers present in the island. Today, you can still see the remains of the jail which was built in 1867 by the British. Breathtaking and serene, the island covers an area of 69 acres and is located 23.6 kms west of Port Blair. On the way to the island from Port Blair, visitors come across the main port and the navy ships of Port Blair. From the island, one can get a bird’s eye view of the neighboring islands, the seven-point harbor and the mighty ocean in its splendid shades.

Ross Island: Named after Daniel Ross, a British marine surveyor, Ross Island holds a unique charm in the remants of the former British settlement on the island. In pre-independence India, this island was a British colony where administrative activities were at a peak. It was called Paris of the East’ and even now you can find the remnants of that colonial period. The ruins of a church, the cellular jail, a bakery, and several other buildings are there to be explored too. Today, the Indian Navy maintains the former British Administrative Headquarters and its numerous historic ruins. There is the Smritika Museum (Indian Navy) which is well maintained and the newest attraction for visitors is a sound and light show. It takes place every evening barring Wednesday and major holidays.

North Bay Island: Covered with ash coloured sand and tropical trees; North Bay Island is known for its breathtaking coral reefs and exhilarating adventure activities. There is a picture of the North Bay Island on the back of a 20 Rupee note in the Indian currency. Activities like scuba diving, snorkelling, sea walking, and glass boat rides are what allures tourists the most. The best way to take a tour of North Bay Island is through a glass bottem boat ride which offers visitors ample opportunities to explore the marine world, flora, and reefs. Sea walking is another fun activity that introduces a visitor to the vibrant world of the sea, even if you are not an accomplished swimmer. The islad is situated to the north of Port Blair at a distance of 42.4 km. The beach at the island also houses a lighthouse which offers a spectacular view of the Port Blair skyline and magnificent Ross Island. A trip to this impeccable island will cost around INR 500 and the guide will introduce you to its rich history.

Red Skin Island: Found inside the a Marine National Park, the Red Skin Island may be considered an alternative to Jolly Buoy Island as they are adjacent to each other. The picturesque beach and adjoining forest make for a picture-perfect holiday and the island is a hub for marine life with an abundance of red coral reefs, aquatic animals, tropical plants, white sandy beaches and clear water. A permit is required from the forest department a day before the visit. The island is closed on Mondays and is only open between May and October and tourists visit Jolly Buoy on the months Red Skin is closed. Night stays are not permitted; thus visitors can only do a day trip to this island. The environment of this island is considered to be clean and hopes to stay that way; thus plastic is prohibited here, and tourists are discouraged from using anything of the sort. Activities available are snorkelling which is considered the most popular one by tourists, and glass boat rides at a close second. The enriching marine life with abundant red corals and aquatic animals make for an exciting boat journey. The relatively small beach with shallow water allows tourists to take natural baths with real sea-salt. The island is about 30 km via road from Port Blair. The nearest village is Wandoor, and ferries are available from there. It is an estimated 1.5 hours journey to the island.

Middle Andaman Island
Karmatang Beach: Famous as a Turtle’s Paradise, this beach, with its sparkling sands are best for a relaxing holiday with the lush green trails of mangroves near the beach adding to its charm. At this beach you can learn about the entire birth process of tiny turtles as this beach holds the largest nesting farm for them. Not only that, at this beach, you can also enjoy a plethora of water adventures like snorkeling and scuba diving. It is located just 12 km away from Mayabunder, the beach is easily accessible. As with other Andaman & Nicobar Island beaches, don’t miss out the sunrise and sunset at this beach.

Raman Bageecha Beach: Another secluded beach on Andaman Island, the Raman Bageecha Beach in is the perfect place to take a stroll to watch the sunrise or have a picnic. Lush greenery and many coconut trees surround the beach which is easily accessible from Rangat. You can take a ferry from Port Blair, Havelock Island or Neil Island to reach Rangat, and take a walk from Rangat to Raman Bageecha Beach. Please note that the ferry services do not operate on Sundays.

Long Island: A small island, mostly recognised for its village tourism, Long Island is famous for its untouched white sand beaches, dense natural vegetation that forms the tropical forests and its marine life. The island is also famous for water sports and ocean cruises and the views during sunrise and sunset. The island belongs to the East Baratang Group of islands and is also considered a part of Rangat Taluk. The island is small with an area of 18 sq kms. The forests in the island are a mix of evergreen and tidal swamp forests with the hilly regions covered with dense forests and caves hidden behind the thick vegetation.

Lalaji Bay Beach: Located on the west coast of Long Island, the Lalaji Bay Beach is synonymous with beautiful sandy coastlines and peaceful vibes. The Bay beach is easily accessible by standard ferries from Rangat and Central Andaman. The ferries take you through the unique Mangrove creek lined on your way to the beach that puts together a different experience. The sparsely crowded beach also endows you with beautiful carroty sunsets and dolphins hurtling their way back to the sea. You can also hire a dunghi or take a trek which takes about 2 hours leading through the jungles to reach the beach.

Baratang Island
Baratang Island: Also known as Ranchiwalas Island, Baratang Island is a beautiful little island in the North and Middle Andaman Administrative district and is situated about 100 kilometres away from Port Blair by road. The island is well-known for its mangroves, limestone caves which needs permission from the forest department at Baratang to explore and India’s only mud volcanoes. Unlike Havelock Island, Baratang Island is not as developed for urban tourism and mostly serves as a hub for natural sightseeing. You can reach Baratang island via the government ferry service that runs between Port Blair from the Phoenix Bay Jetty as an ideal offbeat one day trip. Popular activities at the Batarang Island include boating through the mangrove forests and limestone caves, light treks and hikes and bird watching. The beaches here are untouched and offer a quiet experience for those who shy away from crowds.

Baludera Beach: Located 9 Km from the Nilambar Jetty, the Baludera Beach is a less visited beach on the eastern end of Batarang Island. The serenity of the beach attracts those who shy away from large crowds and wish to laze silently at the beach. The waters are particularly clear on bright sunny days and offer a good swimming experience. One can find huts and small treetops to laze at. To reach the beach, the most preferred way is to take a boat to the Nilambar Jetty from Port Blair. Alternatively, buses and private taxis are also available from Port Blair making for a great road trip as well.

Parrot Island: Parrot Island, home to thousands of fluttering parrots, looks like a whole new empire of wilderness born out of the salty waters of the Indian Ocean. Every day, hosts of green parrots arrive at the island as a part of their daily ritual, which is a spectacle to behold. Parrot Island, one of the islands in Baratang is a restricted area where visitors can’t go without prior permission and can only be visied by a convoy of forest rangers and officials. Most of the islands here are inhabited by the Jarawas, which means there are even stricter rules about public admission. However, Parrot Island, which is completely uninhabited can only be enjoyed from your vessel which you can get to from the Baratang jetty through small boats locally known as Dunghi thirty minutes away. On your way to this Island, there is yet another worthy of halting destination called Jarawa Tribal Reserve. This region is inhabited by the Jarawa community.

Limestone Caves: The naturally-formed limestone caves near the Baratang island are a short walk of about 15-minutes, from the boat jetty. Sedimentary rock has formed in all parts of the cave with limestone is hanging in magnanimous chunks from the ceiling of the cave. Some formations that are found here are speleothem, flowstones, stalactite, stalagmites, and columns, but mostly stalactite and stalagmites. The structures have taken hundreds of years to appear this way. The caves, although beautiful, are not that easy to reach. One has to take a convoy through the Jarawa Forest land and ferry ride to Baratang Island before you can reach Limestone Caves in Andamans. It is advised to carry flashlights as the denser the caves get, the darker they become.

North Passage Island
Merk Bay Beach: Located in the North Passage Island, close to Strait Island and Long Island, Mark Bay Beach is another less crowded beach. Since North Passage Island is an uninhabited island, the beach retains it clear blue water with an enchanting view of a variety of colourful fish underneath and creates a beautiful contrast with the clean white sand for miles. Boat safaris to and from the beach are a popular activity including marine life spotting such as dolphins. The waters are generally clean and clear for most of the year, and some light swimming and snorkelling close the shore can be done. The Merk Bay Beach is also the perfect setting for memorable pre-wedding photoshoots and instagramable vacation photographs. The forests surrounding the beach may look intimidating at first, but the cool interiors are perfect for a nice long walk. Due to limited human reach, the beach is also home to a number of exotic birds in all seasons. You can spend hours listening to the mesmerising call of birds along with the crashing of the waves.

Guitar Island: Of the numerous, exquisite but uninhabited islands of the islands that make up the Andaman and Nicobar group, the Guitar Island has brilliant blue water all around and a tropical greens core, which makes this island a stunning day trip from the main Long Island by a 15 minutes boat ride. The small patch of green in the azure blue of the ocean is named so because of its shape. An aerial view of the island will reveal that it looks exactly like a guitar from up there, complete with a small sound hole of water in the middle, the long neck and even the headstock. This island is completely uninhabited and there are no shops or facilities for accommodation here. Because of this, night stays are not possible, and it is safer to come back to Long Island while there is still light. From Guitar Island, you can see another smaller island a little distance away. This island is called the Small Guitar Island. During high tides, the gap between the two islands is covered with seawater, but when the tide ebbs, it leaves sandbanks between them which connect the two. You can ask your boatman to take you on that island as well. Although it is much smaller and has more or less the same ambiance, it is still worth a visit.

There are more islands waiting for you, so keep watching this space…

Travel Bucket List: India – Andaman & Nicobar Islands Part 2

Posted on September 21, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Starting from Port Blair, we will explore the Union Territory of Andaman & Nicobar Islands. Port Blair is the capital city of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, as well as the local administrative sub-division or tehsil of the islands, the headquarters for the district of South Andaman, and the territory’s only notified town. The city serves as the entry point for visiting the Andaman and Nicobar Islands and is connected with mainland India by both air and sea. It is a 2-3 hour flight from mainland India to Port Blair’s Veer Savarkar International Airport, and 3–4 days by sea to reach Kolkata, Chennai or Visakhapatnam from Haddo Wharf in Port Blair. It is home to several museums and a major naval base INS Jarawa of the Indian Navy, along with sea and air bases of the Indian Coast Guard, Andaman and Nicobar Police, Andaman and Nicobar Command, the first integrated tri-command of the Indian Armed Forces and the Indian Air Force.

Since their migration out of North Africa 60,000 years ago, Andaman tribes have lived in close-knit communities. Genome studies prove that the Andamane tribes split from the tree of human evolution of their out of Africa ancestors 30,000 years ago, and radiocarbon dating studies of the kitchen refuse dumps from the mounds excavated by the Anthropological Survey of India at Choladari near Port Blair provide another proof that the Andaman tribes have been living here for at least 2,000 years. In 1789 the Government of Bengal established a penal colony on Chatham Island in the southeast bay of Great Andaman, named Port Blair in the honour of Archibald Blair of the East India Company. After two years, the colony moved to the northeast part of Great Andaman and was named Port Cornwallis after Admiral William Cornwallis. However, there was much disease and death in the penal colony that the government ceased operating it in May 1796.

In 1824 Port Cornwallis was the rendezvous of the fleet carrying the army to the First Anglo-Burmese War. In the 1830s and 1840s, shipwrecked crews who landed on the Andamans were often attacked and killed by the natives, alarming the British government. In 1855, the government proposed another settlement on the islands, including a convict establishment, but the Indian Rebellion forced a delay in its construction. Since the rebellion provided the British with a lot of new prisoners, it made the new Andaman settlement and prison an urgent necessity. Construction began in November 1857 at the renovated Port Blair, avoiding the vicinity of a salt swamp which seemed to have been the source of many of the old colony’s problems. The penal colony was originally on Viper Island. The convicts, mostly political prisoners, suffered life imprisonment at hard labour under cruel and degrading conditions. Many were hanged, while others died of disease and starvation. Between 1864 and 1867 a penal establishment was also built with convict labour on the northern side of Ross Island which lie in ruins today.

As the Indian freedom movement continued to grow in the late 19th century, the enormous Cellular Jail was constructed between 1896 and 1906 to house Indian convicts, mostly political prisoners, in solitary confinement. The Cellular Jail is also known as Kala Pani in Hindi, which translates to Black Waters, a name given to it due to the torture and general ill-treatment towards its Indian convicts. During World War II the islands were occupied by the Japanese on 23 March 1942 without opposition from the garrison and the British forces returned to the islands in October 1945. From 1943–44 during World War II, Port Blair served as the headquarters of the Azad Hind government under Subhas Chandra Bose.

Although affected by the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake and tsunami, Port Blair survived sufficiently to act as a base for relief efforts in the islands.

So what can we see while we base ourselves out of Port Blair?

Cellular Jail: Cellular Jail is one of the most historically significant monuments in the Andaman Islands, as it used to be the place where Britisher officers used to send prisoners for exile, during the period of their rule. The walls of this jail hold many stories of the brave Indian freedom fighters and prisoners who have withstood torment in the cells of this very building. The jail is also referred to as Kala Pani, meaning black water in Hindi, and what was the term for prison cell confinement during that period. The construction of the jail took place the years of 1896 and 1906, however, the British officers had been using the prison as an exile for prisoners right from the period of the Sepoy mutiny, during the late 1950s. The mutiny caused the death of a large number of Indian soldiers by the hands of the British, and those who were managed to survive were sent to the islands to live the rest of their days there. This prison, in particular, was considered to be the best place to send the soldiers who protested against the British, as they were completely isolated from their homes, their families and all their loved ones. Therefore, sending the rebels here was considered the highest form of punishment as it not only received torment in the form of physical punishments and torture, but their spirit was broken as well due to the fact that they were far from everything that was familiar to them. Honoring the struggle of those fighting for India’s independence, the prison was dedicated to the nation on 11th February 1979. Today, the stories and struggles of the freedom and political fighters of our country are proudly displayed on the walls of the prison, and there is even a gallery dedicated to the photos and exhibitions of the movement of the freedom fighters. Apart from the gallery, the prison also houses a library on the first floor, which has a lot of books related to the freedom movement, and a gallery showcasing the important moments from the first war of Independence. One of the key attractions the prison is the eternal Flame of the Freedom or the Swatantrya Jyot that has been built in honor of the soldiers who have given their lives to the freedom movement. The Cellular Jail also has a light and sound show which takes place daily in the evening with shows in both English and Hindi. The show in English runs on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between 8 to 9 pm while the Hindi version of the show runs on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays for an hour each at 5:30 pm, 6:45 pm, 8:00 pm and 9:15 pm. Visitors pay around INR 30 per head, for both adults and children, and you pay an extra INR 200 for a photo camera while a video camera will cost you INR 1000 to use inside the jail. The Cellular Jail is closed on Mondays while on other days it is open from 9 am to 1 pm and then again between 2 to 5 pm.

Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park: Tucked away from the buzzing city streets in the northwestern coast of the island, the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park is situated in Wandoor village which is about 29 kilometres away from the capital city of Port Blair. The wildlife sanctuary consists of a group of 12 islands which are situated in a labyrinthine shape and are home to some of the most exquisite marine life in the world including corals and resting sea turtles among other species. Established in 1983, the Marine National Park features lush mangrove cover and peaceful beaches which add to its aesthetic appeal. The park sprawls over an area of 281 square kilometres encompasses coral reefs, mangrove creek, rainforests, and lagoons with most of the islands here protected and inaccessible by the general public. The coral reefs are the highlight of the park exhibiting their glorious forms and enchanting one and all. The famous islands to visit are Jolly buoy Islands, Redskin Island, Grub Island, Rangat Island, Neil Island and Long Island. The park is open daily except on Mondays between 9 am and 3 pm and it is advisable to get prior permission from the relevant authorities before accessing the park. Entry fees to the park for an adult is INR 50 per person, while that for a child is INR 25 and foreigners pay INR 500. If you want to take a camera inside, you need to pay INR 25 per person, per camera.

Chatham Saw Mill: The oldest and largest sawmill, not just in India, but in Asia, the Chatham Saw Mill which was built in the 19th century, is the largest production of timber with raw materials being obtained from the forest of Chatham island. The museum inside the mill gives tourists an insight into the history of Chatham island and also explains the biodiversity it is blessed with. It also showcases an interesting collection of wood-work and carvings that depict the excellence of craftsmanship. The mill is open for tourists in the first half of the day that is from 8 am to 2:30 pm every day, except on Sundays and public holidays. Tourists ideally require an hour or two for a tour inside. The entry fee is INR 10 per person and INR 50 for a tour with a guide.

The Forest Museum which is located inside the Saw Mill showcases the beautiful amalgamation of art and plant life. It displays a huge collection of wooden art, carvings, and artifacts prepared by the workers of Saw Mill that altogether represent the rich flora and fauna of the region. Visitors get to see various sculptures, carvings and art pieces made of different types of wood – oak, satin, timber – all from local trees that are abundantly grown in the Andaman islands. The museum also houses a range of endangered species of plants that make sure to spellbound nature enthusiasts. Moreover, the mini zoological garden inside the same premises surely adds value to the place. The museum is open on all days, except Sundays and public holidays from 8 am to 12 noon and then again from 2:30 to 5 pm. A nominal amount of INR 2 is charged per head at the entrance of the museum, as an entry fee. However photography is not allowed inside the museum.

Samudrika Marine Museum: Run by the Indian Navy, the popular Samudrika Marine Museum is one of its kind in Port Blair showcasing different marine life forms. It has a huge collection of corals, seashells, fishes and different species of sea animals in distinct hues and sizes. The museum has been divided into five prominent sections viz. marine archaeology, history of Andaman, marine life, geographical information and the people of Andaman. A major objective of the museum is to generate awareness towards the oceanic environment and marine life. The major attraction of the museum is the skeleton of a baby blue whale that was washed ashore on the coast of Andaman & Nicobar. A tiny zoo within the museum premises boasts of a few saltwater crocodiles in Haddo of Andaman. Another speciality of the museum is its inbuilt aquarium featuring regional varieties of the sea plants and animals. The shop within the premises stocks local handicraft, bamboo craft, sea shell knick-knacks and other souvenir The entry fee for the museum is Rs.50/- for adults and Rs.20/- for children per head and cameras are charged at Rs.50. Entry is free for senior citizens and specially-abled citizens on providing a valid identity card. The museum is open every day from 9 am to 5 pm except on Mondays. It takes approximately 2-3 hours to explore the museum.

Anthropological Museum: The Anthropological Museum is an ethnographic museum detailing the lives and cultures of the various tribes that have lived in the Andaman islands. Within the museum, one has the opportunity to learn about the history of the Jarawas, the Onges, the Sentinelese, the Shompens, and the Nicobarese, making it a cultural hotspot of this region. Spread across two floors, there is a great deal of importance given to the history and ancestry of the tribal people of the island, and is a testament to the indigenous human diversity that has coexisted here for centuries. Among the highlights of this museum are an ancient Jarawa chest guard, a skull originating from the Sentinelese region, and the shamanic sculptures created by the Nicobarese. A keen observation of these exhibits helps visitors understand the beliefs, traditions, and styles of adapting to the environment used by pre-historic tribals of this attractive island nation. Other minor displays are inclusive of handicrafts, arts and crafts, tools, photographs, implements, and clothing. Displays at the museum date back to the era when the six major local tribes were prominently present here. After completing your tour through the exhibits, make it a point check out the clay displays. The museum is home to some astounding clay displays for which showcase homes, ornaments, utensils, and equipment used by these communities. The museum is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm with a lunch break where the museum is shut between 1 and 1:30 pm on all days except Mondays and public holidays. Entry fee to the museum is INR per person.

Sri Vetrimalai Murugan Temple: The biggest temple in the islands, the Sri Vetrimalai Murugan Temple is renowned for its spectacular nuances of Dravidian architecture and intricate artwork that leave one spellbound. Situated behind the Governor’s Palace, the temple is dedicated to Lord Murugan or Karthikeyan, the son of Lord Shiva. The history of the temple dates back to the time of pre-independent India and was built in 1926 in the Ross Islands by the British rulers to win the loyalty of the Tamilians. Later it was shifted to Port Blair post-independence. Thousands of tourists and pilgrims visit this temple to participate in the main festivals which are Panguni Uthram, Kanda Shasthi and Thai Poosam. The typical Dravidian architecture and paintings on the interior of the temple resemble those in the Kanda Kotta temple at Chennai, Tamil Nadu. The temple is open every day from 5 am to 12 noon and then again in the evening between 4 to 9 pm.

In the next few posts, we will discover the plethora of beaches and the different islands plus some other interesting destinations which we can find in the Andaman & Nicober Islands. Keep watching this space…

Travel Bucket List: India – Andaman & Nicobar Islands Part 1

Posted on September 14, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

One place that’s been forever in my bucket list has been the island chain known as the Andaman & Nicobar Islands. A Union territory of India comprising 572 islands of which 37 are inhabited, the Andaman & Nicobar Islands are a group of islands at the juncture of the Bay of Bengal and the Andaman Sea.

The islands are about 150 km north of Aceh in Indonesia and separated from Thailand and Myanmar by the Andaman Sea. It comprises two island groups, the Andaman Islands and the Nicobar Islands, separated by the 150 km wide Ten Degree Channel, on the 10°N parallel, with the Andamans to the north of this latitude, and the Nicobars to the south by 179 km. The Andaman Sea lies to the east and the Bay of Bengal to the west of the islands.

The capital of the entire Union Territory is the city of Port Blair. The total land area of the islands is approximately 8,249 sq km and is divided into three districts: Nicobar District with Car Nicobar as capital, South Andaman district with Port Blair as capital and North and Middle Andaman district with Mayabunder as capital. The islands host the Andaman and Nicobar Command, the only tri-service geographical command of the Indian Armed Forces.

The Andaman Islands are home to the Sentinelese people, an uncontacted people. The Sentinelese might be the only people currently known to not have reached further than a Paleolithic level of technology, however, this is disputed, as evidence of metalwork was found in their island.

The earliest archaeological evidence of life in the islands go back some 2,200 years. However, genetic and cultural studies suggest that the indigenous Andamanese people may have been isolated from other populations during the Middle Paleolithic, which ended 30,000 years ago. Since that time, the Andamanese have diversified into linguistically and culturally distinct, territorial groups.

The Nicobar Islands appear to have been populated by people of various backgrounds. By the time of European contact, the indigenous inhabitants had coalesced into the Nicobarese people, speaking a Mon-Khmer language, and the Shompen, whose language is of uncertain affiliation. Neither language is related to Andamanese.

King Rajendra Chola I or Rajendra I was a Tamil Chola emperor of South India who ruled between 1014 to 1042 AD, used the Andaman and Nicobar Islands as a strategic naval base to launch an expedition against the Srivijaya Empire, which is modern-day Indonesia. The Cholas called the island Ma-Nakkavaram or the great open or naked land, which can be found in the Thanjavur inscription of 1050 AD. The European traveller Marco Polo also referred to this island as ‘Necuverann’ and a corrupted form of the Tamil name Nakkavaram would have possibly led to the modern name Nicobar during the British colonial period.

The history of organised European colonisation on the islands began when settlers from the Danish East India Company arrived in the Nicobar Islands on 12 December 1755. On 1 January 1756, the Nicobar Islands were made a Danish colony, first named New Denmark, and later in December of the same year as Frederick’s Islands. Between 1754–1756 they were administrated from Tranquebar, in continental Danish India. The islands were repeatedly abandoned due to outbreaks of malaria between 14 April 1759 and 19 August 1768, from 1787 to 1807/05, 1814 to 1831, 1830 to 1834 and gradually from 1848 for good. From 1 June 1778 to 1784, Austria mistakenly assumed that Denmark had abandoned its claims to the Nicobar Islands and attempted to establish a colony on them, renaming them Theresia Islands. In 1789 the British set up a naval base and penal colony on Chatham Island next to Great Andaman, where now lies the town of Port Blair. Two years later the colony was moved to Port Cornwallis on Great Andaman, but it was abandoned in 1796 due to disease. Denmark’s presence in the territory ended formally on 16 October 1868 when it sold the rights to the Nicobar Islands to Britain, which made them part of British India in 1869. In 1858 the British again established a colony at Port Blair, which proved to be more permanent. The primary purpose was to set up a penal colony for criminal convicts from the Indian subcontinent. The colony came to include the infamous Cellular Jail. In 1872 the Andaman and Nicobar islands were united under a single chief commissioner at Port Blair.

During World War II, the islands were practically under Japanese control, only nominally under the authority of the Arzi Hukumate Azad Hind of Subhash Chandra Bose. Bose visited the islands during the war and renamed them as Shaheed-Dweep or Martyr Island and Swaraj-Dweep or Self-rule Island. The Japanese surrendered the islands to the British on 7 October 1945 in Port Blair. During the independence of both India in 1947 and what was then known as Burma in 1948, the departing British announced their intention to resettle all Anglo-Indians and Anglo-Burmese on these islands to form their own nation, although this never materialised. The islands became a part of India in 1950 and was declared as a union territory of the nation in 1956. Since the 1980s, India has been developing defence facilities on the islands and the islands now play a key role in India’s strategic role in the Bay of Bengal and the Malacca Strait.

On 26 December 2004, the coasts of the Andaman and Nicobar Islands were devastated by a 10 m massive tsunami following the undersea earthquake off the Indian Ocean. More than 2,000 people lost their lives, more than 4,000 children were orphaned or suffered the loss of one parent, and a minimum of 40,000 people were rendered homeless. More than 46,000 people were injured with the Nicobar Islands of Katchal and Indira Point being the worst affected. Indira Point actually subsided almost 14 feet and was partially submerged in the ocean. The lighthouse at Indira Point was damaged but has been repaired since then. The territory lost nearly ten percent of its area which is now submerged. While locals and tourists of the islands suffered the greatest casualties from the tsunami, most of the aboriginal people survived because oral traditions which was passed down from generations warning them to evacuate when large waves follow large earthquakes.

There are 572 islands in the union territory, with about 38 being permanently inhabited. The Andaman group has 325 islands covering an area of 6,170 sq km while the Nicobar group has 247 islands with an area of 1,765 sq km. The highest point is located in North Andaman Island is Saddle Peak at a height of 2,402 ft. The northernmost point of the Andaman and Nicobars group is Landfall Island lying 220 km north of Port Blair, and 300 km south of Myanmar and is home to the Kari tribe. Indira Point at the southern tip of the southernmost island, Great Nicobar, is the southernmost point of India and lies only 200 km from Sumatra island in Indonesia. The only volcano in India, Barren Island, is an active volcano which last erupted in 2017 and is located in the union territory. It also has a mud volcano situated in Baratang island and these mud volcanoes have erupted sporadically, with recent eruptions in 2005 believed to have been associated with the 2004 Indian Ocean earthquake. This island’s beaches, mangrove creeks, limestone caves, and mud volcanoes are some of the physical features.

The Sisters are two small uninhabited islands, East Sister Island and West Sister Island, in the Andaman Archipelago, at the northern side of the Duncan Passage, about 6 km southeast of Passage Island and 18 km north of North Brother. The islands are about 820.21 feet apart, connected by a coral reef; they are covered by forests and have rocky shores except for a beach on the northwest side of East Sister Island. Before the British established a colony on the Andaman, the Sisters were visited occasionally by the Onge people of Little Andaman Island for fishing. The islands may have been a waystation on the way to their temporary settlement of Rutland Island between 1890 and 1930. The islands have been designated as a wildlife refuge since 1987, with an area of 0.36 sq km.

The Andaman and Nicobar Islands have a tropical rainforest canopy, made of a mixed flora with elements from Indian, Myanmar, Malaysian and endemic floral strains. So far, about 2,200 varieties of plants have been recorded, out of which 200 are endemic and 1,300 are unique to the islands and do not occur in mainland India. About 50 varieties of forest mammals are found to occur in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. Some are endemic, including the Andaman wild boar. The State Animal of Andaman is the dugong, also known as the sea cow, which can be found in Little Andaman. There are 96 wildlife sanctuaries, nine national parks and one biosphere reserve in these islands.

Tourism to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands is increasing due to the popularity of beaches and adventure sports like snorkelling and sea-walking. There are also plans to develop various islands including luxury resorts being constructed with participation from the government in Avis Island, Smith Island and Long Island. Indian tourists do not require a permit to visit the Andaman Islands, but if they wish to visit any tribal areas they need a special permit from the Deputy Commissioner in Port Blair. Permits are required for foreign nationals. For foreign nationals arriving by air, these are granted upon arrival at Port Blair.

The best time to vist the Andaman & Nicobar Islands is during the months of April to June which is the summer season. The weather is quite sunny and warm at this time, but since this is the best time to hit the beaches, make sure you go during this time. The rainy season in this region begins in the month of June and goes on till the month of November. This is usually the offseason in the islands and there are not many tourists during this period. This is also the cheapest time to visit the island as all the hotels and resorts offer great discounts during this period. Tourists can also consider this season if they don’t mind getting wet. The most popular season to visit the islands among the tourists is the winter season, during the months of November to March. The climate during this season is optimal for tourists, as it is not too hot to explore the tourist attraction in the towns, but also still warm and pleasant enough to spend time at the beaches.

So without further ado, lets start our journey in the union territory’s capital of Port Blair.

Festivals of India: Onam

Posted on August 31, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

The state festival of Kerala, Onam is holiday and a harvest festival which falls on the 22nd nakshatra Thiruvonam in the Malayalam calendar month of Chingam, which in Gregorian calendar overlaps with August–September. Legends say the festival is celebrated to commemorate King Mahabali, whose spirit is said to visit Kerala at the time of Onam.

Onam is one of three major annual Hindu celebrations along with Vishu and Thiruvathira celebrated in Kerala and it is observed with numerous festivities. Onam celebrations in the state include Vallam Kali or boat races, Pulikali or tiger dances, Pookkalam or flower Rangoli, Onathappan or worship, Onam Kali or Tug of War, Thumbi Thullal which is a women’s dance, Kummattikali or the mask dance, Onathallu or martial arts, Onavillu which means music, Kazhchakkula or the plantain offerings, Onapottan or costumes, Atthachamayam or folk songs and dance, and other celebrations. It is the New Year day for Malayalis worldwide.

During the Onam, Hindus install an image of Thrikkakara Appan or Onatthappan who is Vishnu in the form of Vamana in their home. Many lamps are lit in temples during this celebration with a palmyra tree erected in front of temples and surrounded with a wooden balustrade and covered with dry palmyra leaves. It is then lit with a torch and burned to ashes to signify that King Mahabali went to Patala as a sacrifice. The swing is another integral part of Onam, especially in the rural areas. Young men and women, decked in their best, sing Onappaatt, or Onam songs, and swing one another on swings slung from high branches.

The state celebrates Onam in a grand scale with public holidays that start four days from Uthradom or the eve of Onam to Thiruvonam or the sacred day of Onam which falls today 31 August. Major festivities take place across 30 venues in Thiruvananthapuram, the capital of Kerala. It is also celebrated by the Malayali diaspora around the world. Though a Hindu festival, non-Hindu communities of Kerala participate in Onam celebrations considering it as a cultural festival and something unique to their state.

There are two common and popular legends to this festival. The first one is about the King Mahabali. According to the Hindu mythology, Mahabali was the great- great-grandson of a Brahmin sage named Kashyapa, the great-grandson of demonic dictator, Hiranyakashipu, and the grandson of Vishnu devotee Prahlada who came to power by defeating the gods and taking over the three worlds. According to Vaishnavism mythology, the defeated Devas approached Vishnu for help in their battle with Mahabali. Vishnu refused to join the gods in violence against Mahabali, because Mahabali was a good ruler and his own devotee. He, instead, decided to test Mahabali’s devotion at an opportune moment. Mahabali, after his victory over the gods, declared that he would perform a fire sacrifice or Yajna and grant anyone any request during the Yajna. Vishnu took on his fifth avatar, that of a dwarf boy called Vamana and approached Mahabali. The king offered anything to the boy; gold, cows, elephants, villages, food, whatever he wished. The boy said that one must not seek more than one needs, and all he needed was “three paces of land.” Mahabali agreed. Vamana started to grow and grew to an enormous size, and covered everything Mahabali ruled over in just two paces. For the third pace, Mahabali offered his head for Vishnu to step on, an act that Vishnu accepted as evidence of Mahabali’s devotion. Vishnu granted him a boon, by which Mahabali could visit again, once every year, the lands and people he previously ruled. This revisit marks the festival of Onam, as a reminder of the virtuous rule and his humility in keeping his promise before Vishnu. The last day of Mahabali’s stay is remembered with a nine-course vegetarian Onasadya feast.

An alternate legend behind Onam relates to Parashurama, an incarnation of Vishnu who is credited in Hindu mythology to have created the Western Ghats from the southern tip of Kerala, Karnataka, Goa, all the way up to Maharashtra. According to this legend, Vishnu got upset with the kings and the warrior caste who were constantly at war and were arrogant over others. Vishnu took the avatar of Parashurama, or “Rama with an axe” and also known as Rama Jamadagyna, in the era of King Kaartavirya. This king persecuted and oppressed the people, the sages and the gods. One day, the king came to the hermitage of Parashurama and his mother Renuka, where while Parashurama was away, the king without permission took away the calf of their cow. When Parashurama returned, he felt the injustice of the king, called him to war, and killed the king and all his oppressive warriors. At the end, he threw the axe, and wherever it fell, the sea retreated, creating the land of Kerala and other coastal western parts of Indian subcontinent. Another version states that Parashurama brought Namboodiri Brahmins to southwestern parts of India, by creating a mini-Himalaya-like mountain range with his axe. The Onam festival, according to this legend, celebrates Parashurama’s creation of Kerala by marking those days as the new year. The legend and worship of Parashurama is attested in texts and epigraphs dated to about the 2nd century.

Not only Hindus, but Onam is also celebrated by Orthodox Christians and most Muslims. In churches, it is celebrated with with local rituals which start with the lighting of Nilavilakku, an arati that includes waving of flowers or the pushparati over the Bible, eating the Onam meal together with the Hindus as a form of communion of brothers and sisters of different faiths. These practices are seen by the Kerala Christians as a form of integration with Hindus, showing mutual respect and sharing a tradition which transcends religion.

The month of Chingam, when Onam is celebrated, is the first month according to the Malayalam Calendar. The celebrations mark the Malayalam New Year and are spread over ten days, and conclude with Thiruvonam. The ten days are sequentially known as Atham, Chithira, Chodhi, Vishakam, Anizham, Thriketa, Moolam, Pooradam, Uthradam and Thiruvonam. The first and the last day are particularly important in Kerala and to Malayalee communities worldwide.

The Atham day is marked with the start of festivities at the Vamanamoorthy Thrikkakara temple in Kochi. This Vishnu temple is considered as the focal centre of Onam and the abode of Mahabali and festivities start with the raising of the festival flag. Parades are held, which are colourful and depict the elements of Kerala culture with floats and tableaux. Other days have diverse range of celebrations and activities ranging from boat races, cultural programs, sports competitions, dance events, martial arts, floral Rangoli called pookkalam, prayers, shopping, donating time or food for charity to spending time with family over feasts. Men and women wear traditional dress. The Kerala sari or Kasavu sari is particularly wore on this day.

Onam starts off every year with a grand parade called Athachamayam at Thrippunithura near Kochi, also referred to as the Thripunithura Athachamayam. The parade features elephants marching, drum beats and other music, folk art forms, floats and colorfully dressed people with masks. In Kerala’s history, the Kochi king used to head a grand military procession in full ceremonial robes from his palace to the Thrikkakara temple, meeting and greeting his people. In contemporary times, this a state-supported event. The procession path historically has been from Tripunithura to the Vamanamoorthy Temple in Thrikkakara in Ernakulam district. The temple is dedicated to Vishnu in his Vamana or dwarf avatar. After arrival at the temple, the marchers offer a prayer.

The floral carpet, known as Onapookkalam or just Pookkalam, is made out of the gathered blossoms with several varieties of flowers of differing tints pinched up into little pieces to design and decorate patterns on floor, particularly at entrances and temple premises like a flower mat. Lamps are arranged in the middle or edges. It is a work of religious art, typically the team initiative of girls and women, who accomplish it with a delicate touch and a personal artistic sense of tone and blending. When completed, a miniature pandal or an umbrella hung with little festoons is erected over it. The pookkalam is similar to Rangoli which is made of powders of various colors and is popular in North India. Kerala during Onam is transformed into aflower garden with pookolams found in every home and public space to celebrate the festival. The traditional ritual of laying the pookkalam starts on Atham day and the pookkalam on this day is called Athapoo which is relatively small in size. The size of the pookkalam grows in size progressively with each day of the Onam festival. Only yellow flowers will be used on Atham with only one circular layer made and the design is kept simple. Statues or figurines of Mahabali and Vamana are also installed at the entrance of each house on this day. Traditionally, Atthapookalams included flowers endemic to Kerala, but nowadays all varieties of flowers are used. Earthen mounds, which look somewhat like square pyramids, representing Mahabali and Vamana are placed in the dung-plastered courtyards in front of the house along with the Pookalam, and beautifully decorated with flowers. All over Kerala, Pookalam competitions are a common sight on Onam day.

Traditional dance forms including Thiruvathira, Kummattikali, Pulikali, Thumbi Thullal, Onam Kali and others are performed during this period. Thiruvathira Kali is a women’s dance performed in a circle around a lamp. Kummattikali is a colourful-mask dance. In Thrissur, festivities include a procession consisting of caparisoned elephants surrounded by Kummatikali dancers. The masked dancers go from house to house performing the colorful Kummattikali. Onam Kali is a form of dance where players arrange themselves in circles around a pole or tree or lamp, then dance and sing songs derived from the Ramayana and other epics. Kathakali dance is also commonly performed during this time, with dancers enacting famous mythological legends. Pulikali, also known as Kaduvakali is a common sight during Onam season. This dance showcases performers painted like tigers in bright yellow, red and black, who dance to the beats of instruments like Chenda and Thakil. This folk art is mainly performed in the cultural district of Thrissur and thousands pour into the city to be a part of this art. Performances of the ritual worship dance, Theyyam, are given during the Onam season.

At the Thrikkakara temple, every day of the festival showcases one or more of these activities including Kathakali, Thiruvathira, Chakyar Koothu, Ottam Thullal, Patakam, Onam songs, and percussion instrument shows. The Onasadya here is grand in scale, and is attended by over ten thousand people from all religions and faiths. Festivities include Puli Kali or the masked leopard dance and traditional dance forms like Kaikotti Kali which are performed in various functions. The official Government celebrations start on this day with heavy illuminations in Thiruvananthapuram, Kochi and Kozhikode along with fireworks. Most cities in Kerala, are lit up with lights and fabulous displays of fireworks. Sumptuous Onam Sadya feasts are prepared. In the Thrikkakara temple, a mega-feast is conducted, which is open to the public and is attended by more than twenty thousand people.

The Vallamkali or the snake boat race is another event that is synonymous with Onam. Well-known races include the Aranmula Uthrattadhi Boat Race and the Nehru Trophy Boat Race. Numerous oarsmen row huge snake-shaped boats and people come from far and near to watch and cheer the snake boat race through the water. This event is particularly featured on the Pampa River, considered sacred and Kerala equivalent to the Ganges River.

What’s a festival without food? A Sadya is the traditional nine or more course vegetarian meal served on banana leaf and the Onam festival is marked with a special feast lunch on last day and includes rice and a sweet at the end. The Onasadya reflects the spirit of the season and is traditionally made with seasonal vegetables such as yam, cucumber, ash gourd and so on. The feast is served on plantain leaves and consists of nine courses, but may include over two dozen dishes. The feast ends with a series of dessert called Payasam eaten either straight or mixed with ripe small plantain. The importance of the feast to the Kerala’s Onam celebration culture is captured in the famous Malayalam proverb “Kaanam Vittum Onam Unnanam” which means “One must have the Onam lunch even by selling one’s property, if need be.” The Travancore-style Onasadya is renowned to be the most disciplined and tradition-bound.

Normally, the largest chunk of Onam celebrations ends by Thiruvonam. However, the two days following Thiruvonam are also celebrated as third and fourth Onam. The third Onam, called Avvittom marks the preparations for King Mahabali’s return ascension to heavens. The main ritual of the day is to take the Onathappan statue which was placed in the middle of every Pookkalam during the past 10 days and immerse it in a nearby river or the sea. The Pookkalam will be cleaned and removed after this ritual.

To everyone celebrating Onam, here’s wishing you a very Happy Onam. May the colour and lights of Onam fill your home with happiness and joy.

Aishwaryathintheyum, Samridhiyudaeyum ThiruvONAM Aashamsikkunnu. Ellavarkkum Ente Hridayam Nirannja Onashamsagal!

Festivals of India: Ganesh Chaturti

Posted on August 21, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

My favourite festival and one that I look forward to all year, especially when I was still living in India, Ganesh Chaturthi celebrates the birth of the elephant God, Lord Ganesh. This festival is made extra special because Lord Ganesh is my ishtadev and I was born during the eleven days this festival is celebrated in Mumbai and so my star birthday is always during this festival. As per Hindu religious books, the Lord Ganesha was born on Shukla Chaturthi during Bhadrapada lunar month which comes sometime in the months of August and September according to the Gregorian calendar.

Since Lord Ganesh is the destroyer of obstacles and the one who has to be worshipped first before any other worship, he is very important in the Hindu Pantheon and from where I come from, the favorite God. If there was a state Lord, I am sure Lord Ganesh will be that for Maharashtra!

Traditionally the festival used to be celebrated at home by installing small clay idols of Lord Ganesh, but during India’s independence struggle, in 1893 after the installation of the first sarvajanik or public Ganesh idol in Pune by Bhausaheb Laxman Javale or Bhau Rangari, Lokmanya Tilak, a legendary freedom fighter praised the celebrations of the public festivities in his newspaper, Kesari, and dedicated his efforts to launch the annual domestic festival into a large, well-organised public event. Tilak recognised Lord Ganesh’s appeal as “the god for everybody”, and chose this particular God as the one that bridged “the gap between Brahmins and non-Brahmins”, thereby building a grassroots unity across them to oppose British colonial rule.

It is also said that in 1870, the British colonial rulers, out of fear of seditious assemblies, had passed a series of ordinances that banned public assembly for social and political purposes of more than 20 people in British India, but exempted religious assembly for Friday mosque prayers under pressure from the Indian Muslim community. Tilak believed that this effectively blocked the public assembly of Hindus whose religion did not mandate daily prayers or weekly gatherings, and he leveraged this religious exemption to make Ganesh Chaturthi to circumvent the British colonial law on large public assembly. The first sarvajanik Ganesh utsav and statue of Lord Ganesh was installed in the Keshavji Nayak Chawl at Girgaum Mumbai by Tilak in 1893. This festival then took off and is a huge festival in my home state of Maharashtra and today is a pan Indian public festival where large and small idols of Lord Ganesh are installed anywhere from 1.5 to 11 days.

On the last day, be it one and a half days, three days, five days, seven days, nine days or eleven days, the idols are taken to a large body of water, be a pond, river or the sea and immersed so that the Lord can return back to his home in Mount Kailash in the Himalayas. Offerings are made to the Lord twice a day with prayers and an arti and the holy offerings distributed to everyone.

In Mumbai, traditionally there will be Ganesh pandals or temporary structures to house the Lord in pretty much every locality of the city. If I think back, where we live in Mumbai, in a one-km radius, I can thinkof atleast 10-15 Ganpati pandals which are of varying sizes with corresponding sizes of the idols of Lord Ganesha.

One such pandal is the one that is hosted by the GSB Seva Mandal, founded by the Goud Saraswat Brahmin community, who have installed an idol not too far from my home for the last 65 years. This is Mumbai’s most famous and richest Ganpati mandal in Mumbai whose idol each year is adorned with gold jewellery weighing around a staggering 73 kgs! This is due to the offerings made by devotees each year because of wishes that have been fulfilled. When I was in Mumbai, I used to try and make it to this pandal every year to pray. This Ganesh idol is only installed for five days and so some years, it used to be a challenge to try and make it, but I would do my best. This idol is always an eco-friendly one, made out of clay and here there is none of the usual recorded music there, instead, traditional Indian musical instruments used in south Indian temples are played.

Another iconic Ganesh idol is the Lalbaghcha Raja or the King of Lalbagh. This is probably the most visited mandal in Mumbai, formed in 1934 and the idol comes from just one family and the design is now patent-protected. This idol draws an average of an astounding 1.5 million people daily when it is installed and people stand in lines for hours just to see and pray to this idol which they believe will fulfill their wishes. Lalbaghacha Raja has cancelled their Ganeshotsav this year in the light of the coronavirus, instead the focus will be on health, with a blood and plasma donation camp held instead.

Only a couple of lanes from Lalbaghcha Raja is the Mumbaicha Raja which is also very popular. This mandal is well known for its new and innovative themes each year, often a replica of a famous place in India. It was formed for the benefit of the mill workers in 1928, making it the oldest one in the area. Even though this Ganesh idol is often very busy and crowded, waiting times can be as little as 20 minutes to a few hours.

Another Ganesh mandal close-by is the Khetwadicha Ganraj, which is considered to be one of the most spectacular Ganesh idols in Mumbai. The mandal was established in 1959 but found fame in 2000, when it made the highest Ganesh idol in Indian history, standing 40 feet tall. The idol at Khetwadi is decked out in real gold jewelry and adorned with diamonds.

The Andhericha Raja in the western suburb of Andheri is what the Lalbaugcha Raja is to south Mumbai. The mandal was established in 1966 by the workers of the Tobacco company, Tata Special Steel and Excel Industries Ltd, who moved from Lalbaug to be closer to their factories. Compared to many other famous mandals in Mumbai, the idol isn’t as towering or imposing. However, it has a reputation for fulfilling wishes. The mandal’s theme is usually a replica of a significant temple in India. This idol is different because unlike other idols which are immersed on the eleventh day which is Anant Chaturdashi, this idol is immersed on Sankashti Chaturthi, which is about five days after Anant Chaturdashi.

Writing this post has made me super nostalgic for the Ganesh festival in Mumbai. In the last twenty years that I have been in Singapore, I have never been back for the festival and now with the pandemic and restrictions, it seems quite unlikely in the near future. Also this year, because of the lockdown and the fact that these idols attract huge crowds, many of the Ganesh mandals have either decided to not install an idol or if they do, they plan to install a small idol. The government has also banned public immersions on Anant Chaturdhashi and so according to a report I read, after four decades, 99 percent of all Mumbai’s top public Ganeshotsav organisers have decided to reduce the side of the idols to a maximum of four feet. It is said that this is only the second time in the history of Ganeshotsav that the festival would be drastically scaled down without the immersion ceremonies, and on both occasions it was due to an invisible disease, the first time being in 1896 when Pune was hit by a killer bubonic plague which claimed many lives.

To everyone who is bringing home the Vighnaharta tomorrow, Happy Ganesh Chaturi to you and your loved ones. May the remover of obstacles pave the way to success for you and yours.

Ganpati Bappa Morya, Mangal Murti Morya!

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Memories of a very ordinary life

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