In My Hands Today…

Borderlands: Travels Across India’s Boundaries – Pradeep Damodaran

For most residents of India’s bustling metros and big towns, nationality and citizenship are privileges that are often taken for granted. The country’s periphery, however, is dotted with sleepy towns and desolate villages whose people, simply by having more in common with citizens of neighbouring nations than with their own, have to prove their Indian identity every day.

It is these specks on the country’s map that Pradeep Damodaran rediscovers as he travels across India’s borders for a little more than a year, experiencing life in far-flung areas that rarely feature in mainstream conversations.

In Borderlands, he recounts his encounters with the war-weary fishermen of Dhanushkodi at the southernmost tip of Tamil Nadu, who live in fear both of the Indian Coast Guard and the Sri Lankan navy; farmers in Hussainiwala, a village on Punjab’s border with Pakistan, who are unwilling to build concrete houses for fear of them being destroyed in an ever looming war; Tamil traders of Moreh, a town straddling the Manipur–Myanmar border, who pay bribes to at least ten different militant organizations so they can safely conduct their business; and ex-servicemen in Campbell Bay who were resettled there three generations ago and have long been forgotten by the mainland.

From Minicoy in Lakshadweep to Taki in West Bengal, Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh to Raxaul in Bihar, Damodaran’s compelling narrative reinforces the idea that, in India, a land of contrasts and contradictions, beauty and diversity, conflict comes in many forms.

In My Hands Today…

Amritsar to Lahore: A Journey Across the India-Pakistan Border – Stephen Alter

“During the course of my journey, many of the people I met in Pakistan and India expressed a curious combination of affection, indifference, and animosity toward their neighbors across the border. . . . The border divides them but it is also a seam that joins the fabric of their cultures.”

On 15 August 1947, in what some have argued was the final, cynical act of a collapsing empire, the British left India divided. Arbitrary borders that have profoundly affected the recent history of the subcontinent were drawn upon the map of India. In the violence that accompanied Partition, it has been estimated that close to a million people were killed and more than ten million uprooted and displaced. The hatreds created by what was one of the largest mass migrations in history only exacerbated the religious tensions that originally led to Partition. Since then, India and Pakistan have fought three devastating wars, and the danger of armed conflict is constant.

A sensitive and thoughtful look at the lasting effects of Partition on everyday people, Amritsar to Lahore describes a journey across the contested border between India and Pakistan in 1997, the fiftieth anniversary of Partition. Setting out from and then returning to New Delhi, Stephen Alter crossed the border into Pakistan, retraced the legendary route of the Frontier Mail toward the Khyber Pass, and made his return by bus along the Grand Trunk Road, stopping in major cities along the way.

During this journey and another in 1998, Alter interviewed people from all classes and castes: Hindus, Muslims, and Sikhs, men and women. In candid conversation, the older generation who lived through the events of 1947 shared their memories and opinions of that pivotal moment of Partition, while youths who have inherited the fragments of that past reflected upon the meaning of national identity. In an engaging account of peoples and places, Alter documents in evocative detail his meetings with varied individuals. He recalls the Muslim taxi driver who recognizes an air of confidence with which men in Pakistan walk the streets dressed in salwar kameez; the brigadier who saved the brass insignia of the British crown from Lord Mountbatten’s Rolls Royce; gold merchants, customs officers, fellow travelers, musicians, and many others.

Alongside these diverse and vivid interviews, chance conversations, and oral histories, Alter provides informed commentary to raise questions about national and individual identity, the territorial imperatives of history, and the insidious mythology of borders. A third-generation American in India, where he has spent much of his life, Alter reflects intimately upon India’s past and present as a special observer, both insider and outsider. His meaningful encounters with people on his journey illustrate the shared culture and heritage of South Asia, as well as the hateful suspicions and intolerance that permeate throughout the India-Pakistan frontier. Also woven into the narrative are discussions of the works of South Asian novelists, poets, and filmmakers who have struggled with the issue of identity across the borderlands.

Ongoing battles in Kashmir and nuclear testing by both India and Pakistan may prove that peace in this region can be achieved only when border disputes are resolved. Offering both the perspective of hindsight and a troubling vision of the future, Amritsar to Lahore presents a compelling argument against the impenetrability of boundaries and the tragic legacy of lands divided.

Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 10 – Negeri Sembilan Part 3

Jelebu

The second largest district in the state, Jelebu borders Seremban to its west and Kuala Pilah to its south, Jempol to its southeast, Bentong and Bera plus Pahang to its east and Hulu Langat in Selangor to the north. Jelebu has a somewhat blossoming semi-agricultural industry with Kuala Klawang the principal town of the district. Jelebu has an infamous recorded history of British and Japanese colonisation as compared to other parts of Negeri Sembilan. Numerous colonial artefacts were discovered in the small semi-agricultural town of Sungai Muntoh, which was once a prosperous mining town a century ago. These artefacts are now displayed in the state museum. The booming tin industry was one of the main reasons for the massacre in Titi, where more than 1,500 people, mainly Chinese, were killed. Altogether, about 5,000 people were killed by the Japanese-led army during World War II.

The Titiwangsa Mountains, the longest mountain range in Malaysia, transverses through Jelebu and so most of its terrain is generally heavily forested and mountainous, specifically in its northern and western regions. Jelebu has the warmest climate recorded in Malaysian history. The southwestern part of Jelebu is considered the driest place in Malaysia.

The Pasoh Caves, the southernmost limestone cave complex in Malaysia, is also located in Jelebu.  The caves are also known for being the first Paleolithic site in southern Peninsular Malaysia, as well as the southernmost in Malaysia. Some of the artefacts discovered here in an excavation are as old as 14,000 years. The Kenaboi State Park is nestled in the lush million-year-old rainforest amidst peaks of the Titiwangsa Mountains. The nature reserve is famous for being the main entry point to the tallest mountain in Negeri Sembilan, Mount Besar Hantu at 1,462 m and natural landmarks such as Lata Kijang, Lata Dinding and Lata Berungut. The Customs Museum or the Muzium Adat is a museum that exhibits the facets and lifestyle of the people of Negeri Sembilan. It was constructed in 2005 and officially opened on 2 February 2008. The museum is housed in a four-story building, with a giant replica of a Malay headdress at the top of its entrance and consists of four galleries, which include the introduction of customs, life cycle, intellectual tradition, government and power and Pepatih customs.

Seremban

Originally founded as Sungei Ujong, Seremban is the capital of Negeri Sembilan and is named after a nearby river of the same name. The town gained its city status on 20 January 2020. Sungei Ujon still exists as road names and the name of the luak or chiefdom that formed Negeri Sembilan. Among the Chinese-speaking community, the city is known as Fùhyùhng in Cantonese and Fúróng in Mandarin which means hibiscus, which comes from a phonetic approximation of Ujong. Seremban lies about 60 km south of the country’s capital, Kuala Lumpur, about 55 km south of Malaysia’s administrative centre, Putrajaya and 40 km from the Kuala Lumpur International Airport. 

Sungai Ujong, or Sening Ujong, as it was originally known, was an ancient settlement. It has been said in the Malay Annals that King Parameswara reportedly visited Sening Ujong after fleeing the kingdom of Singapura before ultimately establishing the Malacca Sultanate. It was also referred to as Sang Hyang Ujong in Javanese accounts, notably the Nagarakretagama, as well as Suneujon in Godinho de Erédia’s cartographic records, which dates back to 1613. Growth took off after the discovery of tin ore in the 1870s and the discovery of tin in Rasah saw an influx of Arab, Malay and Chinese immigrants to work in the mines and trade there.

Renamed Seremban, the town flourished not only as a mining area but also as a business centre. The Linggi River served as the sole outlet to ferry tin and supplies in and out of the town. Revenue came not only from the tin trade but also from the large amount of taxes collected, much to the displeasure of the traders and the British in the neighbouring port of Malacca. Because of the local chieftains were at odds with each other, the British were able to assert their influence and authority in Negeri Sembilan.

Before 2020, Seremban was one of four state capitals that had yet to be elevated to city status; the other three being Kota Bharu in Kelantan, Kuantan in Pahang and Kangar in Perlis. To achieve city status, the Nilai Municipal Council and Seremban Municipal Council were merged to form a new local authority, Seremban City Council.

Seremban is situated about 60 kilometres south of Kuala Lumpur, the capital city of Malaysia, 50 kilometres south of the administrative capital Putrajaya, and about 30 kilometres inland from the coast. Part of the Malaysia Vision Valley corridor and the National Growth Conurbation, Seremban is considered to be the southern limit of the Greater Kuala Lumpur metropolitan area.[14][15] It is located in the Linggi River valley, at the western fringes of the Titiwangsa Mountains. The terrain is generally hilly, and the soil is mostly reddish laterite soil, suitable for the cultivation of rubber and palm oil, thus making Seremban the agricultural centre for the state. Since the establishment of Seremban, the Linggi River has played an important role in the city’s growth. During the boom period of tin mining, the Linggi River served as the major transportation route for tin traders. Today, it is one of the major sources of water for the Seremban metropolitan area and Negeri Sembilan.

Dubbed the fish pond, Seremban Square is an area of open land in the downtown Seremban area which recently been given a new look. From a barren, neglected piece of land which was the breeding ground for mosquitoes, today it is known as Seremban Square, which decorates the main entrance to Seremban. Here, the Malaysian flag is raised on a flagpole standing 100 feet high. Taman Tasik Seremban which is also known as Seremban Lake Garden is one of Seremban’s major attractions. Surrounded by two lakes and a lush green garden, it is a jogging favourite and many local families like to come here, especially over the weekends and public holidays. One of Malaysia’s oldest natural gardens, the garden has a children’s playground and walking tracks as well as a floating stage on the lake which hosts performances over weekends. The Seremban 2 Recreational Park is another popular destination during weekends or school holidays. At this six-acre area, visitors will be greeted with breathtaking landscapes as well as a variety of colourful kite decorations flying freely in the sky.

At the border of Selangor and Negeri Sembilan lies the small town of Broga, on which lies the Bukit Broga Hill. The hill is known for its beautiful views covered with lalang grass and palm oil plantations and is famous for its steep and adventurous hike uphill, giving a mesmerising view of sunrise and sunset. To experience the magical view while walking on the trail, walk about ten minutes after which the tiring trail starts being marked by the archway of the RHB Bank. The bank board also provides three halting and viewing points at 880 feet, 1150 feet, and 1312 feet. Over the years there has been an evident amount of damage to the pathway, so one should be careful on the main path and avoid any further damage. And because of this, it is best to avoid the hill during the monsoon season and when it rains as the path gets muddy and slippery as well as during the weekends when it gets crowded. Because it can get tiring in the sun, the best time to visit is between 9:30 am and 12 noon before the day is at its hottest. Proper hiking shoes are necessary as the way to the hill is slanted and it can be difficult to climb without proper shoes and other amenities. Parking is free and the entrance fee is RM 1 per person.

The Masjid Negeri Seremban or the State Mosque is located near the Lake Gardens. The nine pillars of this mosque symbolize the nine original states of Negeri Sembilan. The mosque features modern architectural elements as well as traditional Minangkabau architectural design. It is lit up at night when it is at its best.

The first French missionary church in Seremban, the Church of the Visitation was constructed in 1848 on two acres, surrounded by a tranquil panorama. Inspired by neo-gothic architecture, the church houses a historical Parochial House, Visitation Hall, and Formation Centres. The main hall is decorated with mosaics and stained glass windows. The church’s permanent structure was constructed in 1899 with new additions made over the years. The daily mass takes place on weekdays at 6:45 am while on Saturday, it is at 6 am and 7 am on Sundays.

Perched on top of the Wu Gong Hill in Ulu Temiang, the Centipede Temple or the Then Sze Temple is set atop 264 steps. Centipedes roamed freely in and out of the temple grounds, and it is believed that if one spots a centipede, one can expect some good fortune. The centipede stone statue is the main attraction of this temple. The statue of Lord Yue Lao or the God of Marriage is also housed inside. Several couples hook red strings and lockets here and pray for a long union. Some of the other attractions include the tortoise pool, the Guan Yin statue, a pavilion dedicated to Guan Di, the Datuk Altar, and the Eight Immortals. While the Centipede Temple is a Taoist temple, it also contains Chinese and Buddhist elements. This temple is further adorned with ceiling hangings, a Qing Dynasty bell, beautiful lanterns, a drum, and an intricately decorated door. The temple is open daily between 7 am and 7 pm.

To know more about the former Negeri Sembilan Yang di-Pertuan Besar Tuanku Ja’afar, one must visit the Galeri Diraja Tuanku Ja’afar. He was the 10th Yang di-Pertuan Agong or constitutional monarch who ruled Negeri Sembilan for 42 years. Spanning across 3 storeys, this gallery is adorned with a colonial style of architecture and private collections of the late Malaysian ruler. There are nine exhibition halls, depicting the life of Tuanku Ja’afar inside the gallery. These exhibition halls depict the life of the ruler in chronological order.  Some of the details that have been showcased in the gallery include his early life, schooling, higher education, and hobbies. Photographs showcasing his meetings with famous world leaders and politicians are also housed inside the exhibition halls. The gallery also houses paintings made by the ruler himself. The museum is closed on Mondays and other days, it is open between 10 am and 5 pm. Entry fees are RM 10 for adults and RM 5 for children.

The Negeri Sembilan Museum was established in 1953 when the 8th Yamtuan or Ruler of Negeri Sembilan, Tuanku Abdul Rahman gave his consent for the relocation of the Ampang Tinggi Palace from Kuala Pilah to the Taman Bunga at Jalan Dato’ Hamzah, Seremban and this was turned into the State Museum.

The Jelita Ostrich Farm is Malaysia’s first ostrich farm as certified by the Malaysian Book of Records. It is located on the outskirts of Seremban and is famous for its ostriches. This farm is also a haven for many other animals and birds like goats, geese, ducks, turkeys and horses. A walking tour is available to explore the farm. Visitors can compete in the man-against-egg challenge where visitors bag a chance to stand on the hard-to-break ostrich egg. The farm houses a souvenir shop selling an exclusive range of ostrich oil-based hair and skin care products and some ostrich essence. Entry fees are RM 8 for adults and RM 6 for children and the farm is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm.

Sri Menanti

The royal capital of Negeri Sembilan, Seri Menanti is located 33 km northeast of the state capital of Seremban. The town houses the seat of the Yang Di-Pertuan Besar of Negeri Sembilan or Yamtuan Besar, the ruler of the state. The royal palace is known as Istana Besar. The area under which Seri Menanti is known as the Adat Circle or Adat Lingkungan in Malay. Seri Menanti also governs the surrounding chiefdoms or luaks of Terachi, Gunung Pasir, Ulu Muar, Jempol and Inas, of which they are collectively known as Luak Tanah Mengandung.

The Minangkabau people moved to the wider area of Negeri Sembilan during the 14th century as part of the Minang practice of merantau. Around the 15th century, they moved further inland from Rembau and explored the area that is known today as Seri Menanti. Among the explorers was Datuk Puteh of Pagar Ruyung. According to legend, they found three stalks of fresh green paddy and thus Datuk Puteh christened the area Padi Menanti which means awaiting paddy. Over time the name changed to Seri Menanti. It is believed that the word Seri means the Goddess of rice in the ancient Javanese tradition.

Raja Melewar arrived in Negeri Sembilan in 1773 and was installed and proclaimed as the first Yamtuan Besar in Kampung Penajis in Rembau. He later moved his palace to Seri Menanti which remains the royal town of Negeri Sembilan.

A few traditionally styled houses, a derivative of the Minangkabau design Rumah Gadang remain standing around Seri Menanti and in the adjacent villages. A significant portion of the land in Seri Menanti is Malay Reserve and Malay Customary Land or Tanah Adat.

The incumbent Tunku Besar of Seri Menanti is Tunku Ali Redhauddin, the eldest son of the Yang Di-Pertuan Besar of Negeri Sembilan Tuanku Muhriz ibni Almarhum Tuanku Munawir. The title of Tunku Besar Seri Menanti is the most senior of the Putera Yang Empat or the Four Princes. This is the third time in 120 years that the Tunku Besar Seri Menanti has been appointed. The official palace of the Yang Di-Pertuan Besar Negeri Sembilan is the Istana Besar. Completed in 1932, palace has numerous facilities with gardens that oversee the Straits of Johor. The palace complex consists of the Main Palace, the Throne Room or Balairong Seri, and the Royal Banquet Hall. However, it is not open to the public to visit but instead hosts royal banquets and events. Istana Seri Menanti is a beautiful 4-storied Malay architectural structure that was built without any nails. The palace exhibits costumes, weaponry, bed chambers as well as documents on the royal lineage on display in the museum.

The old wooden palace, known as Istana Lama, was built and officiated during the reign of Yang Di-Pertuan Besar Tuanku Muhammad Shah ibni Almarhum Tuanku Antah who reigned between 1888 and 1933. It is made in part of Chengal or Penak wood Neobalanocarpus and ironwood or Belian wood and held together using only wooden pegs. The palace took six years to build and was completed in 1908 for $45,000. The design has subtle hints of Minangkabau architecture, with five levels rising to a height of sixty-seven feet or approximately twenty meters high and has ninety-nine columns to support the main structure. The Istana Lama was a replacement for the Istana Pulih which was burned down by the British. This palace was used until 1932 after which the Yang Di-Pertuan Besar moved to the Istana Besar. The Istana Lama has been designated as a national heritage site and was converted into a Royal Museum in 1992.

The Tuanku Munawir Royal Mosque, which was built in 1964 is located next to the Royal Palace. The architectural design has been credited to the Mughals, with golden domes roofs, minarets and triangular arches. There is a verandah and a serambi that shows the local intricacies.

And this brings us to the end of this delightful state which has something for everyone. Keep watching this space as we move to explore the state of Pahang next.

In My Hands Today…

Tamarind City: Where Modern India Began – Bishwanath Ghosh

‘While in other big cities tradition stays mothballed in trunks, taken out only during festivals and weddings, tradition here is worn round the year.’

This is just one of the author’s many keen observations of Chennai. With mordant wit, this biography of a city spares neither half of its split-personality: from moody, magical Madras to bursting-at-the-seams, tech-savvy Chennai. And, a minute into the book, the reader knows they are inseparable-and Bishwanath Ghosh refuses to take sides.

And yet, he tells us, while Chennai is usually known as conservative and orthodox, almost every modern institution in India-from the army to the judiciary, from medicine to engineering-traces its roots to Madras’s Fort St George, which was built when Delhi had only just become the capital of the Mughal Empire, and Calcutta and Bombay weren’t even born. Today, the city once again figures prominently on the global map as ‘India’s Detroit’, a manufacturing giant, and a hub of medical tourism. There have been sweeping changes since pre-Independent India, but even as Chennai embraces change, its people hold its age-old customs and traditions close to their heart. ‘This is what makes Chennai unique,’ says Ghosh, ‘the marriage of tradition and technology’.

Bishwanath Ghosh wears a reporter’s cap and explores the city he has made his home, delving into its past, roaming its historic sites and neighbourhoods, and meeting a wide variety of people-from a top vocalist to a top sexologist, from a yoga teacher to a hip transsexual, from a yesteryear film star to his own eighty-five-year-old neighbour, from the ghosts of Clive, Wellesley, Hastings and Yale to those of Periyar and MGR, two people who redefined the political skyline of Tamil Nadu.

What emerges is an evocative portrait of this unique city, drawn without reservation-sometimes with humour, sometimes with irony-but always with love.

Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 9 – Negeri Sembilan Part 2

Port Dickson

A beach resort and the second largest urban area in Negeri Sembilan after Seremban, Port Dickson is named after the British officer, John Frederick Dickson in 1989 and is a favourite weekend getaway for those from Seremban, Port Klang and Kuala Lumpur and even Singapore. The town is known for its high-end hotel establishments, army bases, pristine beaches facing the Strait of Malacca, and a lot more.

The town used to produce charcoal and therefore was called Arang which in Malay means charcoal. There used to be a carbon mine at the first mile of the coast road which was named Jalan Pantai, but was later developed as a small port by the British during the Straits Settlement period. Port Dickson was also known as Tanjung which means a Cape in Malay, alluding to the town centre’s location on a small peninsula. The oldest shophouses were the four situated presently at Jalan Lama.

Historically what is today Port Dickson and nearby Lukut were then part of the Luak of Kelang, one of the original nine chiefdoms or luaks that formed the first iteration of Negeri Sembilan in 1773. By the early 1800s, it was then part of Selangor. On 30 July 1880, a meeting was held in Singapore between Sultan Abdul Samad, then Sultan of Selangor, Raja Bot, the ruler of Lukut district, Dato’ Kelana of Sungai Ujong as well as the British, in which Selangor ceded the district of Lukut to Sungai Ujong which later became the modern-day Negeri Sembilan.

Tin ore was plentiful in Lukut, an area within the Port Dickson district, during the 1820s, and it attracted Chinese immigrant miners. The British considered the area to have great potential as a harbour and it was intended to supersede the port in Pengkalan Kempas. The officer in charge was named Dickson, and the town was named Port Dickson after him. Others claim that Sir John Frederick Dickson, colonial secretary, and a senior official of the Federated Malay States founded Port Dickson and Pulau Arang in 1889. Soon Port Dickson evolved into a busy trading centre and railways were constructed to facilitate the growth and development of the town. Although Port Dickson experienced rapid development, its beaches are fairly well preserved.

Port Dickson, as a resort town, thrives primarily on tourism, but other sectors also contribute to the town’s economic growth. Along with Seremban, Port Dickson is part of the 1530 sq km Malaysia Vision Valley, a growth corridor initiated by the state government which aims to develop the western half of Negeri Sembilan to complement the existing development in the neighbouring Klang Valley and the Greater Kuala Lumpur area. Port Dickson has two refineries which make significant contributions to the local economy.

A former mining town, most attractions in Port Dickson are concentrated around the coast – the beautiful beaches of Pantai Cahaya Negeri, Tanjung Tuan, Teluk Kemang, Saujana, and Bagan Pinang present a host of adventures and fun for families and adrenaline junkies. The 18 km long beach from Tanjung Gemuk to Tanjung Tuan is a holiday destination for locals, especially those who come from the Klang Valley. Many Singaporeans have invested in holiday homes in and around Port Dickson and over the years, many hotels and resorts were opened to capitalise on the tourist draw. In the 1990s, Port Dickson boomed with new hotels and resorts being planned and constructed. Due to the Asian financial crisis of 1997, however, many of these projects stalled, leaving many unfinished buildings scattered along the Port Dickson coastline. While some of these half-constructed resorts are still abandoned, with the improving economy of the 2000s, many of the projects were eventually revived and completed.

The newer five-star Admiral Marina & Leisure Club has good dock facilities for yacht travellers, sailboats and luxury cruisers and is a transit point for racing sailboats joining the Raja Muda Selangor International Regatta, the Royal Langkawi International Regatta and Thailand’s Phuket Kings Cup regattas.

Lying about 17 km south of Port Dickson right before Cape Rachado, the Blue Lagoon is a compact yet quite popular beach in the area. Locally referred to as Tanjung Biru, the beach is surrounded by a dense cover of hills and vegetation which makes the beach stand apart. Due to its proximity to the Tanjung Tuan Forest Reserve, wildlife sightings especially migratory birds, monkeys and squirrels are a common sight in this region. The water at the beach remains calm and is shallow which makes it safe for kids to play around in. This also makes for a great location for water sports. Hidden under the beach water lie several coral reefs which add to the ambience of the beach and are an attraction for divers. Blue Lagoon Beach also accommodates several market stalls, food vendors and a hawker centre which make it a great picnic spot. The best time to visit the beach is on a weekday between 10 am and 5 pm.

Located on a coastal strip between the 5th and 6th mile of Port Dickson, about 8 km away, Cahaya Negeri or Pantai Cahaya Negeri is a white-sandy gleaming beach. This shimmering beach features an artificial cape with a recreational park that accommodates some soothing picnic spots. This crowd-pleasing venue is quite popular for its phenomenal sunset views. There is a beautiful wooden bridge called Lover’s Bridge constructed on the eastern edge of the beach’s entrance which is a wonderful spot to take photographs and the bridge leads you to Pulau Burung or Bird Island a coastal mangrove area. On this island, there’s a wonderful watchtower which offers a jaw-dropping view of the coastline of Port Dickson. Activities like camping, hiking, water sports, boating, fishing, and barbeques can be done at the beach. There are public toilets available here which charge between 50 sen to RM 1.

Located on the 7th mile of the Port Dickson coastal road, Wan Loong Chinese Temple is a Buddhist Chinese Temple. Wan Loong means the Dragon of the Clouds and has been built to honour several deities including the Monkey King and Kuan Yin or the Goddess of Mercy. The temple has an aesthetic colourful appeal with its traditional architecture comprising carved Chinese motifs and dragons. The fortress wall of the temple and the pools full of colourful fishes and a giant turtle are its exclusive features. There is a tortoise in the temple pond which is believed to bring good luck when visitors touch it. It is recommended to visit the Wan Loong Temple between 9 am and 1 on to avoid excessive crowds.

Sri Anjaneyar Temple is a temple dedicated to the monkey god, Lord Hanuman and is quite famous owing to the mystical stories attached to it. It’s believed that the Hanuman statue placed in the shrine had itself turned its head to face the town of Rameswaram in Tamil Nadu in India. The head-shifting occurrence is said to have happened in 1996 when a foreign photographer was clicking pictures of the shrine. And when he returned to click some more shots, he was shocked to see the change in the position of the idol’s head. Some believe that due to the strong bond that Lord Hanuman shared with Lord Ram, the idol turned its head towards Rameswaram. According to others, the idol turned its head because Lord Hanuman was against the meat and alcohol that was originally offered in the temple. The temple is open daily, from 7:30 to 9 am and then again between 7:30 to 9 pm.

Cape Rachado is an enclave of the state of Malacca about 18 km from Port Dickson. It is the  Portuguese name for Tanjung Tuan and is the only coastal forest in Malaysia. Cape Rachado was declared a permanent forest reserve by the Forest Department of Melaka in 1921 and was also gazetted as an International Bird Area and a Wildlife Sanctuary. The forest reserve attracts bird watchers from all over and is visited by more than 300,000 migratory birds and more than 177 species of flora. It is well known for its iconic Cape Rachado Lighthouse. It’s a great place for visitors who want to experience the evergreen forest and the beautiful ocean in the same place. The Cape Rachado Lighthouse was built by the Portuguese in 1511 and was used to guide ships along the Straits of Melaka. It was rebuilt in 1863 and offers a spectacular view of the sea and the Straits of Melaka. With a height of 24 meters, the masonry tower is accessible only by foot and is located in an enclosed woodland, which makes it a perfect spot for bird watching. March would be the ideal time to visit Cape Rachado as the Raptors Watch takes place during this time of the year. The morning hours of the day are usually the ideal time to visit the place as it’s cooler. There is an entry fee of RM 1 to access the place.

The Lukut Fort and Museum is a historical recreational site in Port Dickson. The fort was built in 1847 by Raja Jumaat and is in ruins today. Its antiquities are displayed in the Lukut Museum which was built in 1999. Located 6 km from Port Dickson, the Lukut Fort and Museum is now a recreational historical site with a park and gazebos maintained by the government. The entrance is free to the fort and museum. The museum is situated in a former bungalow of a district officer. This double-storey building has 4 galleries housing artefacts relating to the local history dating back to the tin mining era, culture and traditions. One of the artefacts on display includes a Portuguese bronze canon from a shipwreck during the Battle of Cape Rachado. Other displays include pottery shards, stoneware plates, porcelain belonging to the Qing Dynasty and clay floor tiles. Gallery C & D are temporary exhibition galleries displaying exhibits relating to different themes every year. The fort and museum are open between 9 am and 6 pm and entrance is free.

Set in two old army buildings, the Port Dickson Army Museum is dedicated to Malaysian army artefacts. Also known as Muzium Tentera Darat, it houses 9 galleries along with outdoor exhibits that trace the army from the 16th century Melaka Sultanate to the British era. One very interesting exhibit is the CPM or the Communist Party of Malaya Tunnel which has been recreated underground similar to the one used by the bandits who conducted all their activities here during the Emergency. There’s a collection of various military aircraft and helicopters, armoured vehicles, field guns, artillery pieces and a steam locomotive on display here. Another gallery focuses on the modern army and its UN peacekeeping missions. The museum has a cafe, a souvenir shop, toilets and a surau as well. The museum has free entry fees and is open between 9:30 am and 6 pm.

Home to paintings and optical illusions, the Alive 3D Art Gallery leaves visitors amused and enthralled. The paintings are three-dimensional which let the people be a part of the painting. The paintings are divided into five zones. The Wild West Cowboy Indoor Theme Park is a must-visit if one is planning to go to the gallery. The gallery is open from 11 am to 10 am on weekdays and Sundays and from 10 am to 11 pm on Saturdays. The Wild West Cowboy Theme Park is open from 12 noon to 10 pm on weekdays, 10 am to 11 pm on Saturdays and 10 am to 10 pm on Sundays and Public holidays. It is closed on Tuesdays unless it is Malaysia School Holiday or Public Holiday.

The Teluk Kemang Observatory, also known as the Baitul Hilal Complex is a modern space observatory and is one of the most reputed observatories in the region and boasts of an extensive collection of sophisticated telescopes. The observatory provides a jaw-dropping view of the Straits of Melaka and is a perfect setting for stargazing. It is a popular place for astronomical gatherings and observations. One of its telescopes, a 24-inch spectacular beauty was purchased for RM 2 million and is well known for its accurate observations. The view from the telescope is dependent on the weather and the night sky, however, visitors can even see Saturn or Jupiter on a clear day. The observatory is open between 3 and 5 pm and again between 10:30 pm and midnight.

Pusat Ikan Hiasan is a fish centre located at the northern end of Port Dickson in Teluk Kemang. The centre boasts a wide diversity of fish species and also acts as a breeding and conservation centre for marine life. It is famous for its sea turtles on display and traces their lifecycle from hatchlings to adulthood. The port is being managed by the Department of Fisheries and also holds an incubator site for commercial coral reef entrepreneurs. The market is open from 8:30 am to 4:30 pm on weekdays and is closed for a prayer break on Fridays between 12:15 and 2:45 pm. On weekends it is open from 10 am to 4 pm.

The PD Ostrich Show Farm is an ostrich farm popular for ostrich and pony rides. The show farm offers activities like petting and feeding ostriches, rabbits, horses, peacocks and guinea pigs and learning interesting facts about ostriches. Children particularly have a wonderful time at the PD Ostrich Show Farm where they get to run around rabbits and enjoy ostrich rides. The show farm has a cafeteria where one can enjoy the signature Ostrich Satay. It is open between 9 am and 6 pm every day. Entry fees are RM 15 for Malaysian adults and RM 10 for children who are Malaysian. For foreigners, adults pay RM 20 while children pay RM 10.

Kuala Pilah

Kuala Pilah lies 40 km east of Seremban. The charm of this old valley town lies in its Chinese shophouses surrounded by traditional Malay village houses built on stilts. The countryside is a breath of fresh air with clear fresh water from Mount Angsi. A wonderful dragon fruit cultivation can also be seen here with beautiful kampongs and paddy fields on the way. Kuala Pilah is also known for its Minangkabau houses with a sloping buffalo horn roofline. There are rows of small shopping outlets in the newer and central suburbs.

Located in Johol, the Batu Maloi Cave is a 2.4-kilometre-long talus cave made up of fallen boulders of granite with a river flowing through it. It is said to be the longest granite cave in Malaysia and is popular among cavers. The Ulu Bendul Recreation is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Kuala Pilah. It is situated in the Angsi Forest Reserve, compartments 45 and 52 and is about 16 km away from Seremban. The site was established in 1972 and is a fun spot to hike and trek in the jungle paths. The Martin Lister Memorial, an arch designed in Chinese fashion, was established in 1901. It is a historical site that one can visit to pay respects and commemorate the Late Martin Lister who was killed for his efforts to end the violence and conflict of the secret Chinese societies that tortured Chinese migrants. The Sikh Gurudwara Sahib and the Sri Kanthasamy Temple as well as the Masjid India are places of worship in the town.