The Half Known Life: In Search of Paradise – Pico Iyer
Paradise: that elusive place where the anxieties, struggles, and burdens of life fall away. Most of us dream of it, but each of us has very different ideas about where it is to be found. For some it can be enjoyed only after death; for others, it’s in our midst–or just across the ocean–if only we can find eyes to see it.
Traveling from Iran to North Korea, from the Dalai Lama’s Himalayas to the ghostly temples of Japan, Pico Iyer brings together a lifetime of explorations to upend our ideas of utopia and ask how we might find peace in the midst of difficulty and suffering. Does religion lead us back to Eden or only into constant contention? Why do so many seeming paradises turn into warzones? And does paradise exist only in the afterworld – or can it be found in the here and now?
For almost fifty years Iyer has been roaming the world, mixing a global soul’s delight in observing cultures with a pilgrim’s readiness to be transformed. In this culminating work, he brings together the outer world and the inner to offer us a surprising, original, often beautiful exploration of how we might come upon paradise in the midst of our very real lives.
A’Famosa Also known as Kota A Famosa in Malay was a Portuguese fortress built in 1512, A Famosa is amongst the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Southeast Asia. The oldest part of the fortress was a five-storey keep which gave its name to the fortress as a whole. A former Portuguese Fortress, A Famosa is among the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Southeast Asia. Sometime following the Battle of Malacca in 1641 and the occupation of the city by the Dutch, the keep was destroyed but the outer walls of the fortress were reinforced. However, in 1807 the British destroyed most of the fortress. The Porta de Santiago gateway, and the restored Middelburg Bastion, are the only parts of the fortress that remain today.
At the time of its construction, A’Famosa acted as the residence of the Portuguese administration. It consisted of long ramparts and four major towers. One was a four-story keep, the others held an ammunition storage room, the residence of the captain, and an officers’ quarters. The village was mostly clustered within the fortress walls in townhouses. In 1586, extensions were added to the fort to accommodate the expanding population. The fort changed hands in 1641 when the Dutch drove the Portuguese out of Malacca and they renovated the gate in 1670, which explains the logo ANNO 1670 inscribed on the gate’s arch. Above the arch is a bas-relief logo of the Dutch East India Company. The fortress changed hands again in the late 18th century when the Dutch handed it over to the British to prevent it from falling into the hands of Napoleon’s expansionist France. The English were wary of maintaining the fortification and ordered its destruction in 1806. The fort was almost demolished but for the timely intervention of Sir Stamford Raffles. Captain William Farquhar, tasked with the destruction of the fort and town, decided to save two of the gateways to the fort, including the Santiago Gate, as well as the Stadthuys, church and jail.
In late November 2006, a part of the fort, believed to be the Middelburg Bastion, was accidentally uncovered during the construction of 110-meter revolving tower. The construction of the tower was ceased and it was officially opened on 18 April 2008. In June 2004, a watchtower named Santiago Bastion was discovered during the construction of the mall, Dataran Pahlawan. In 2006-2007 the Middelburg Bastion was restored.
Stadthuys The oldest surviving Dutch building in the east, Stadthuys which means city hall in old Dutch, is a historical structure situated in the heart of Malacca in the Red Square. Stadhuys is known for its red exterior and the red clock tower. It was built by the Dutch in 1650 as the office of the Dutch Governor and Deputy Governor. Spread over 49,200 sq ft, the iconic red terracotta building now houses the History and Ethnography Museum showcasing Malaccan culture and traditions. Among the displays in the museum are traditional costumes and artefacts throughout the history of Malacca, which makes it Malacca’s premier museum. It is a reproduction of the former Stadhuis, the town hall of Frisian town of Hoorn in the Netherlands. Apart from housing the Ethnography Museum, Stadthuys complex also has the Museum of Literature. It depicts the local legends and accounts through maps, prints and photographs. Located nearby is another attraction worth visiting – the Tang Beng Swee Clocktower. Admission to the building allows entry to all the museums inside. Photography is allowed and there are free guided tours from 10:30 am to 2:30 pm on weekends and Stadthuys is open from 9 am to 5 pm on Mondays to Thursdays and between 9 am to 8:30 pm on Friday to Sunday.
Dutch Square The Dutch Square is one of Malacca’s most famous landmarks. The square is surrounded by buildings painted in red, which gives rise to its popular name Red Square with Stadthuys being the most prominent. Built between the 1660s and 1700s, the red buildings are characterised by large windows and wrought iron hedges. A major highlight of the Red Square is the Queen Victoria Fountain, standing proudly at its centre. Built in 1901, the fountain commemorates the diamond jubilee of Queen Victoria. The Red Square is a popular photography area.
The Tang Beng Swee Clock Tower is located at the centre of Dutch Square and is named after Chinese billionaire Tan Beng Swee. Popularly known as the Red Clock Tower, it is a famous landmark due to its unique architecture and symbolic value. Stadthuys was used as a town hall during British colonial rule and served as a residential complex for Dutch governors. The building has now been converted into a collection of several museums. Christ Church faces the Queen Victoria Fountain and is also the oldest Protestant Church in Malaysia. The church pays homage to World War II Veterans by putting up plaques on the walls recording the events and deaths of World War II. The red bricks used for the construction of the church were shipped from Holland. Queen Victoria Fountain was built in 1901 in honour of Queen Victoria and is one of the last architectural footprints of the colonial British Power in Malaysia. The fountain functions still date and makes for a good backdrop for photographs near Dutch Square. The Malaysia Youth Museum and Art Gallery was built in 1784 and is located between Christ Church and Laksamana Road. It was used as a Dutch Administrative Complex and a school before finally being converted into a museum. The lane between Christ Church and Stadthuys is well known for its souvenir shops that sell a wide variety of mementoes and are quite popular among visitors.
Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum Also known as the Baba Nyonya House Museum, the Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum is a museum that showcases the local history of ethnic Chinese-Malays called Baba-Nyonya or Peranakan. The museum was established in 1986 by Chan Kim Lay, the fourth generation of his family to reside in the large house built by his great-grandfather in 1896 and is known for its elaborate woodwork, furniture, and porcelain. The museum is a complex of three restored houses showcasing the typical 19th-century Baba-Nyonya residence. The Chinese Palladian houses were converted into Peranakan Museum, now known for its exquisite woodwork, porcelain, and furniture. Guided tours are available. The house consists of three terraces which are almost 20 feet in width and 180 feet long with an air well in the middle for proper air circulation. The house is filled with lavish Blackwood furniture with woodwork, pearl, marble, unique decor and 5 metres high silk embroidery. The stairs to the second storey has woven gold-leaf carvings and solid cenggal wood.
The Thia Besar is the Reception Hall where only men of the family were allowed and is decorated with tall panels of Chinese silk embroidery and interesting stories of generals and scholars with Chinese tales, present in the patriarchal structure of the Chan household. The next room is Dapur which is the Kitchen where ladies along with close relatives were allowed along with Chung Po, the chef to make traditional food. The next hall is known as Thia Abu, which is the ancestral hall. The family still observes the role of the museum as an ancestral home by conducting prayers seven times a year on the death and birth dates of their ancestors and also the Chinese New Year.
The museum exhibits the original layout of the actual ancestral home of the Chan family items showcasing cultures of various countries like the mosaic and oil lamp from the UK, Chinese porcelain, fine art products, unique costumes, antique furniture, woodwork, Peranakan tchotchkes in glass cases along with kitchen items like hand churner. A tour of the museum can be booked online for a and there is a group of 15 or more people, the booking should be made a month in advance with Chinese tours and an activity tour provided in case of special ones. For a group of fewer people, a self-guided book or audio tour can be bought or a guided tour can be taken too. The cost of a audio tour is RM 4 per person. Photography is not allowed inside the museum. The museum is open between 10 am and 5 pm on Mondays to Thursdays and from 10 am to 6 pm on Fridays to Sundays. The last admissions are about 45 minutes before the museum closes. The museum is closed for three days during the Chinese New Year. Entry Fees are RM !6 for an adult and RM 11 for a child between 5 and 12 years.
Melaka Sultanate Palace Located at the foot of St. Paul’s Hill, the Melaka Sultanate Palace is a replica of the 15th-century palace of Sultan Mansur Shah. Also known as Muzium Kebudayaan or the Cultural Museum, it is now converted into a museum of the Malay Sultanate’s heritage and history. It is made up of hardwood for its structure, Belian wood for the roof and wooden pegs instead of nails and was constructed in 1984. The palace is supported by wooden pillars and is covered by a copper roof. The museum was officially opened on 17 July 1986 by then-Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad.
The three-story Melaka Sultanate Palace Museum is divided into eight chambers with traditional costume, art, weaponry, jewellery and other artefacts on display. The museum also houses three galleries showcasing local legends through dioramas. A major highlight is the sculpture of the sultan’s headdress, standing regally at the centre of the museum garden. The museum was built from the information derived from the Malay Annals, which helped the architects build a replica of the original palace design. It is also home to three galleries which feature legendary clashes between legendary Malaysian warriors Hang Tuah and Hang Jebat. The museum features more than 1350 artefacts and photographs detailing the Sultanate’s history and regime. It features the Throne Room and the Royal Bedchamber among several other artefacts belonging to the royal household. Visitors can also find traditional Malay costumes that have historical significance on display in the museum. Weapons used by Malay warriors during the Sultanate regime can also be found on the premises of the museum. The museum is open from 9 am to 5:30 pm on Mondays, Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Villa Sentosa Villa Sentosa Melaka is a traditional Malay house converted into a Malay living museum in Kampung Morten. Positioned near the banks of the Malacca River, it is open to the public as a private museum with family members giving a tour of the house, talking about the diverse family relics and period objects. Villa Sentosa is also known as the Malay Living Museum.
The rooms of Villa Sentosa are connected by a patio and an open courtyard, which ensures that the residents and visitors get plenty of breezes even during the summer months. The building is entirely made up of wood and is raised from the ground level using stilts, which ensures that rodents and water flooding do not affect the house. Visitors are free to explore the rooms in the house, such as the guest room which is filled with antique furniture and crockery. The house also has a wedding room which was used by young couples to stay before they moved out. Villa Sentosa is open from 9 am to 6 pm from Saturday to Thursday and from 2 pm to 6 pm on Fridays. There is no entry fee, but they accept donations.
Cheng Ho Cultural Museum A must-visit for history buffs, the Cheng Ho Cultural Museum is located north of the Melaka River. The museum features historical items, information, and details about the Chinese Ming dynasty admiral, Zheng He’s life and explorations. The museum was founded and opened in 2006 by Tan Ta Sen, also the president of the International Zheng He Society.
Covering a total floor area of 5,110 m, the museum is divided into three levels and occupies eight units of old shophouses, some built before 1786. A drum and a bell tower are located in front of the museum. The museum building is believed to sit at the original site of the warehouse complex Guan Chang, built by Zheng He around 600 years ago to temporarily store goods he acquired during his travels. The warehouse complex originally occupied 10 acres of lowland along the northern bank of the Malacca River. Five Ming-era wells were unearthed during the museum’s construction.
The museum exhibits the life of Zheng He and his world voyage in his fleets. It displays his travel with big pictures of Chinese history. The museum can roughly be divided into several sections, which include Old Malacca Village, Ship Gallery, Treasure Ship, Antique Gallery and Garden Courtyard. The museum’s gift shop is popular for its Chinese tea, Malaysian white coffee and durian souvenirs. The museum is open daily from 9 am to 6:30 pm and adults need to pay RM 20 while children under the age of 12 need to pay RM 10. The ticket price includes a video presentation.
Melaka Maritime Museum The Melaka Maritime Museum showcases the maritime history of Malacca through its three different sections. The highlight of the three is a replica of the Portuguese ship – the Flor de la Mar – that sank in Malacca due to an unfortunate accident. The museum was officially opened to the public by Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad on 13 June 1994. The museum’s main exhibit is the replica of Flor do Mar which is 34 metres high, 36 metres long and 8 metres wide and houses exhibits, artefacts and documents from the golden era of Malacca and shows how political control of Malacca was essential to the establishment of maritime dominance in the region. It also displays the trading link of Malacca from the early time through the colonial era until independence.
There are several paintings in the museum which depict the strategic importance of the Straits of Malacca. The museum also has several exhibits of articles such as silk and textiles and is home to sunken treasures from shipwrecks such as the Diana. Visitors can see the history of Malaccan Maritime and see Malacca’s progress through different eras and rulers. The museum also boasts several ship models and is a treat to ship enthusiasts. Visitors are free to explore the ship while learning about its functions and operation abilities. Visitors are supposed to remove their shoes before entering the museum, so it is advised to wear appropriate footwear and socks. Between Mondays and Fridays, the museum is open from 9 am to 5:30 pm while over the weekend, it is open from 9 am to 9 pm.
Jonker Street Jonker Street, also popular as the Jonker Walk, is the main street of Chinatown, Melaka. It is popular for the shops selling clothes, antiques and souvenirs, apart from being a major street food hub. The highlight of Jonker Street is the night market held here every Saturday and Sunday. Jonker Street starts from across the Malacca River near Stadthuys, with the street in the area filled with historical houses along its left and right sides dating back to the 17th century, many of which are shops selling antiques, textiles, foods, handicrafts and souvenirs such as keychains and shirts. The area turns into a night market every Friday, Saturday and Sunday in the evening from 6 pm until midnight, with its street blocked for traffic.
Jonker Street is not just about the delicious food and market The bustling Jonker Street is not just about delicious food, artistic creations and bargaining, but it, but also has many attractions in and around it. The street depicts the fast, rich, traditional and modern cultural life of Malaysia and forms a smooth knot between the ancient and the modern.
Jonker Walk Night Market is one of the most awaited weekly affairs in Melaka. Set up for only three days a week, it has every possible stall from hawker food and trinket sellers to fortune-tellers and DIY workshop centres. The stalls open up late in the evening and don’t close until midnight giving out carnival vibes and uplifting everyone’s demeanour. The Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum is owned and operated by the descendants of Chan’s family who used to be one of the most prosperous and influential families in Melaka. Cheng Ho’s Cultural Museum is a well-planned gallery showcasing the Mallacan life of Cheng Ho. This ancient building has a bell tower and a drum right at its entrance in such a way that it resembles Ming architecture.
The Cheng Hoon Teng Temple has multiple UNESCO architectural awards and is the oldest Buddhist place of worship in Malaysia. It is also known as the Merciful Cloud Temple by locals because all of the materials used for the construction of the temple have been imported from China. The temple is built on the principles of Feng Shui and is dedicated to Guan Yin or the Goddess of Mercy. The Kampung Kling Mosque is historical because is one of the few cross-cultural mosques which unites the Chinese, the Buddhists, the Sumatrans and the local Malays. The mosque is structured out of designs from all around the world with glazed tiles and wooden beams and pulpits drawing their inspiration from the Portuguese and English culture and carvings over the walls having the traditional Chinese and Hindu texts. The Sri Poyyatha Vinayagar Moorthi Temple is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Ganesha. The two most prominent festivals which are celebrated here on a large scale are the Feast for Lord Muruga and the Dato Chachar Festival.
At the Mamee Jonker House, both kids as well as adults get to learn how to make noodle snacks, decorate their very own noodle cups and chopsticks and choose their favourite toppings and sauces and create their very own instant noodle cups. The 3D Jonker Walk is probably the only structure which is a unique combination of the Upside Down House and a 3D art gallery. Although there are only 25 creations on display, each one of them appears so real that one might get illusioned by what’s in front of them. The main show stopper is the 5D fluorescent museum chamber, where one’s sense of touch, as well as sight, gets tested unlike ever before.
Bukit Cina Bukit China or Chinese Hill is a hillside of historical significance, located to the north of the historical centre of Malacca and today is surrounded by the city on all sides. Bukit Cina is the largest and oldest burial ground of Malacca’s Chinese community outside of China with over 12,500 graves and stretches over 3 hills and also includes 20 Muslim tombs. The forested paths of Bukit Cina are a popular spot for jogging and walking offering incredible views from the park. Bukit Cina Hill has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
According to local tradition, in the mid-15th century, the legendary Hang Li Po was sent to be married to the sultan of Malacca, Mansur Shah, to seal relations between the two states. The hill, Bukit Cina, a gift from the sultan, was established as their residence. Marine archaeology of a shipwreck, the Royal Nanhai wreck from about 1460 AD suggested royal gifts from China, shipped during Sultan Mansor Shah’s reign. The Well of Perigi Raja, situated next to Poh San Teng Temple at the foot of the hill was constructed by Hang Li Po’s followers for her personal use but was also an important source of water for much of the town. It was reputed never to have dried up even during droughts. Today, the well has acquired the reputation of a wishing well and it is believed that anyone who throws a coin into the well will return to Malacca.
Admiral Zheng He’s Seven Wells lie at the foot of Bukit Ciina, beside the Poh San Teng Temple. The well is also known as Li Po’s Well or the King’s Well. The wells were dug by Admiral Zheng He’s expedition force during their stopover in Malacca during the Ming dynasty. The Seven Wells is also known as the Dragon’s Wells according to Feng Shui. Some of these wells were bulldozed during the 1950-60s for road building. To date, only three wells are left intact and they have never been dried even in the worst of drought and today is perceived as a wishing well and is believed that people who throw a coin into the well would return to Malacca.
Ming’s Bridge name originates from the Ming Bride who came to Malacca with her large retinue including 500 handmaidens who set their home on the hill. Built in 1795, the Poh San Teng Temple is dedicated to Admiral Cheng Ho. Located at the left of the well and the base of Bukit Cina, the temple houses images of the Taoist entity Kuan Yin and Dabo Gong. A cenotaph with Chinese calligraphy has been mounted on a platform with a Kuomintang flag at the top in remembrance of the people who were brutally killed during the Japanese Occupation. There is a replica of the palace where Sultan Mansur Shah lived with all his wives including Hang Li Po which also houses the Malacca Cultural Museum.
The state of Malacca or Melaka is the next state we will explore. Located in the southern region of the Malay Peninsula, facing the Strait of Malacca, it has Malacca City, also known as the Historic City, which has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2008. The state is bordered by Negeri Sembilan to the north and west and Johor to the south. The exclave of Tanjung Tuan also borders Negeri Sembilan to the north.
Although it was the location of one of the earliest Malay sultanates, namely the Malacca Sultanate, the local monarchy was abolished when the Portuguese conquered it in 1511. The head of state is the Yang di-Pertua Negeri or Governor, rather than a Sultan. Malacca is noted for its unique history and it is one of the major tourist destinations in Malaysia. With a highly strategic state position for international trade routes, Malacca was once a well-known international trade centre in the East. Many traders anchored in Malacca, especially traders from Arabia, China and India, traded at the port of Malacca and from there were born many of the descendants and tribes that exist in Malacca to this day. Malacca is filled with a great diversity of races and ethnicities reflecting its history. Malays, Chinese, Indians, Baba Nyonya, Kristang, Chitty and Eurasians are significant ethnic groups living in the state today.
The state’s name dates to a popular legend surrounding the founding of the sultanate preceding it by Parameswara who sought to find a new spot to establish his new kingdom after fleeing Singapura which fell to the Majapahit army. As the story goes, Parameswara was resting under a tree near a river during a hunt, when one of his dogs cornered a mouse deer. In self-defence, the mouse deer pushed the dog into the river. Impressed by the courage of the deer, and taking it as a propitious omen of the weak overcoming the powerful, Parameswara decided then and there to found an empire on that very spot. He named it Malacca after the tree where he had just taken shelter, the Malacca tree or Pokok Melaka in Malay. However, some historians argue that the story shows remarkable similarities with and was probably adapted from folk tales from Kandy, Sri Lanka, and Pasai, Sumatra, both of which pre-date Malacca.
Another account about the origin of Malacca’s name says that during the reign of Muhammad Shah who ruled between 1424 and 1444, the Arab merchants called the kingdom Malakat which is Arabic for a congregation of merchants because it was home to many trading communities. One theory suggests, as mentioned in Suma Oriental by Tomé Pires, that it is derived from the Javanese terms melayu or mlayu which means to steadily accelerate or to run, to describe the strong current of a river in Sumatra that today bears the name Sungai Melayu or the Melayu River, which was later possibly adopted as Melaka denoting a place for the fleeing prince.
Before the arrival of the first Sultan, Malacca was a fishing village. The kingdom was founded by Parameswara, also known as Iskandar Shah. He found his way to Malacca around 1402 where he found a good port, one that was accessible in all seasons and on the strategically located narrowest point of the Malacca Straits. In collaboration with allies from wandering proto-Malay privateers of the Straits called the orang laut or the sea-people, he established Malacca as an international port by compelling passing ships to call there, and establishing fair and reliable facilities for warehousing and trade. In 1403, the first official Chinese trade envoy led by Admiral Yin Qing arrived in Malacca. Malacca’s relationships with Ming China granted it protection from attacks by Siam and Majapahit and the kingdom submitted to Ming China as a protectorate. This encouraged the development of Malacca into a major trade settlement on the trade route between China and India, the Middle East, Africa and Europe.
During the early 15th century, Ming China actively sought to develop a commercial hub and a base of operation for their treasure voyages into the Indian Ocean. In 1405, the Ming court dispatched Admiral Zheng He with an imperial order elevating the status of the port to a country. The Chinese also established a government depot as a fortified cantonment for their soldiers. The rulers of Malacca would pay tribute to the Chinese emperor in person. The early kings of Malacca understood that they could gain Ming China’s protection through skilful diplomacy and thereby could establish a strong foundation for their kingdom against Siam and other potential enemies. The Chinese involvement was crucial for Malacca to grow into a key alternative to other important and established ports. Hang Li Po, according to local folklore, a daughter of the Ming Emperor of China, arrived in Malacca, accompanied by 500 attendants, to marry Sultan Mansur Shah who reigned from 1456 until 1477. Her attendants married locals and settled mostly in Bukit Cina.
In April 1511, Alfonso de Albuquerque set sail from Goa to Malacca with a force of about 1200 men and 18 ships and conquered the city on 24 August 1511. After seizing the city, Afonso de Albuquerque spared the Hindu, Chinese and Burmese inhabitants but had the Muslim inhabitants massacred or sold into slavery. It soon became clear that Portuguese control of Malacca did not also mean that they controlled the Asian trade centred there. The Malaccan rule was severely hampered by administrative and economic difficulties. Rather than achieving their ambition of dominating Asian trade, the Portuguese disrupted the organisation of the network. The centralised port of exchange of Asian wealth had now gone, as was a Malay state to police the Straits of Malacca that made it safe for commercial traffic. Trade was now scattered over several ports among bitter warfare in the Straits.
The Jesuit missionary Francis Xavier spent several months in Malacca in 1545, 1546, and 1549. The Dutch launched several attacks on the Portuguese colony during the first four decades of the 17th century with the first attack taking place in 1606. On 14 January 1641, the Dutch defeated the Portuguese and captured Malacca, with the help of the Sultan of Johor and ruled Malacca from 1641 to 1798. But they were not interested in developing it as a trading centre, placing greater importance on Batavia or Jakarta and Java as their administrative centre. However, they still built their landmark, better known as the Stadthuys. In the Dutch era the building was white, today’s red paint is of a later date.
Malacca was ceded to the British in the Anglo-Dutch Treaty of 1824 in exchange for Bencoolen on Sumatra. From 1824 to 1942, Malacca was under the British East India Company and then a crown colony. It formed part of the Straits Settlements, together with Singapore and Penang. Malacca went briefly under the rule of the Empire of Japan between 1942 and 1945 during World War II.
After the dissolution of the crown colony, Malacca and Penang became part of the Malayan Union on 1 April 1946, which later became the Federation of Malaya on 1 February 1948. On 16 September 1963, Malaysia was formed with the merger of Malaya with Sabah, Sarawak and Singapore, and Malacca became part of the new country. On 15 April 1989, Malacca was declared a historical city and listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site on 7 July 2008.
Malacca sits upon the southwestern coast of the Malay Peninsula opposite Sumatra, with Negeri Sembilan to the north and west and Johor to the east. Malacca is located roughly two-thirds of the way down the west coast and commands a central position on the Straits of Malacca. Except for some small hills, Malacca is generally a lowland area with an average elevation below 50 meters above sea level. The peninsula of Tanjung Tuan, formerly known as Cape Rachado is an exclave of the state, situated on the coast of Negeri Sembilan. The Malacca River or Sungai Melaka roughly runs through the centre line of the state from north to south, while the Linggi River acts as the western border of Malacca with Negeri Sembilan, and the Kesang River acts as the eastern border of Malacca with Johor. Malacca has thirteen islands off its coast, with Besar Island being the biggest of all.
Malacca is one of only four Malaysian states without hereditary monarchies, despite being the location of one of the earliest Malay sultanates, as the local monarchy was abolished when the Portuguese conquered it in 1511. The head of the state is the Governor, appointed by the King of Malaysia. In practice, the Governor is a figurehead whose functions are chiefly symbolic and ceremonial. Despite being located in a land without any significant natural resources, the economy of Malacca dates back more than 500 years, due to its strategic location. Located at the centre of the all-important spice trade, Malacca attracted many colonial powers to engage in wars to control it.
The Malay community in Malacca is generally divided into two, one of which follows the Temenggong custom and the other follows the Perpatih custom. The remaining traditional Malay village in Malacca City is the Morten Village. Indians in Malacca are predominantly Tamils, many of whom used to work at the rubber plantation. There is also Chitty Village for the minority Chitty people which houses the Chitty Museum. Among the unique Malacca culture is Dondang Sayang recognised by UNESCO. Dondang Sayang is a traditional Malay art still practised in Malacca by four communities: the Malay, Baba Nyonya, Chitty and Portuguese communities. The practice combines elements of music like violins, gongs and tambourines or the tambour, songs and chants, and features melodious strains of poetry. Also known as love ballads, the songs are used by communities to convey feelings of love and give advice on special topics.
Tourism is a booming industry in Malacca as it is a popular travel destination for Singaporeans during the weekends. In 2017, the state recorded 16.79 million tourist arrivals, the highest number to date. It has also been listed by many publications as one of Asia’s and the world’s top travel destinations. Malacca’s River Art Project which began in 2012 has street art in the buildings beside the port. Nine artists came together to paint on the walls of historical shophouses along the river in Jalan Kampung Hulu. Known as ProjectARM, these murals depict the artist’s representation of Malacca and include a colourful mosaic painted on the walls of Kiehl’s store.
Now that we have learned a bit about Melaka’s history, let’s learn a bit more about the state capital, also known as Malacca or Malacca City.
Malacca City Malacca City or Bandaraya Melaka or Kota Melaka as it is known in Malay is the capital city of the state. It is one of the cleanest cities in South East Asia, being awarded the National Winner of the ASEAN Clean Tourist City Standard Award for 2018 to 2020. It is the oldest Malaysian city on the Straits of Malacca, having become a successful entrepot during the Malacca Sultanate. The present-day city was founded by Parameswara, a Sumatran prince who escaped to the Malay Peninsula when Srivijaya fell to the Majapahit. Following the establishment of the Malacca Sultanate, the city drew the attention of traders from the Middle East, South Asia, and East Asia, as well as the Portuguese, who intended to dominate the trade route in Asia. After Malacca was conquered by Portugal, the city became an area of conflict when the sultanates of Aceh and Johor attempted to take control from the Portuguese.
When the British succeeded in extending their influence over the Malay Peninsula, the city came under the Straits Settlements as part of the British Empire and the city soon prospered. The development and burgeoning prosperity were, however, halted when the Japanese arrived in World War II and occupied the area from 1942 to 1945. During the occupation, many of the city’s residents were taken and forced to construct the Death Railway in Burma, today’s Myanmar. After the war, the city was returned to the British and remained the capital of Malacca. The status as a capital remained until the formation of Malaysia in 1963, and in 2008 it was listed, together with George Town of Penang, as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Malacca City’s economy is largely based on tourism. As the economic centre of the state, it also hosts several international conferences and trade fairs. The city is located along the Maritime Silk Road, proposed by China in 2013.
Due to the large influence of Arab, Persian, and Indian traders, Malacca soon turned into an Islamic sultanate, and Parameswara converted to Islam when he married a princess from Pasai, changing his name to Sultan Iskandar Shah. Malacca continued to prosper until the eighth Sultanate of Malacca, Mahmud Shah, with the various races who came to trade becoming associated with particular trade specialities. Like other traders, the Chinese established their area in the city, occupying the southeast side of the port around a hill called Bukit Cina, where they constructed temples and a well called Hang Li Poh’s Well, named after Hang Li Po, the fifth wife of the sixth Sultan of Malacca, Mansur Shah, who was a Chinese princess from the Ming dynasty.
During the first stage of World War II, the city’s residents continued to live normally until the news of the Sinking of Prince of Wales and Repulse on 10 December 1941 reached the city and struck panic. British colonial officials began to flee and thousands of the city’s residents hid in rubber estates and jungles. The Japanese Army arrived in the city on 14 January 1942 in a convoy of bicycles, but as they focused on ensuring the retreat of the British to the south of the Malay Peninsula and Singapore, there was no major battle in the city or other parts of Malacca. During their occupation, a kempeitai headquarters was established in the formerly British Government Rest House which served as a place for arrests, torture and executions. Those who still lived in the city were given low rice rations with a tapioca supplement and a number of them were taken to Thailand and forced to construct the Burma–Siam Railway. After Malaya achieved its independence on 31 August 1957, the Malacca Club was built by the British in the city as the social centre. The building was then turned into a memorial after 38 years to commemorate the Malayan independence. After the Federation of Malaya, together with North Borneo, Sarawak and Singapore formed the Federation of Malaysia in 1963, Malacca was extensively developed and in 2003 it was granted city status. On 7 July 2008, Malacca City was listed as one of the historical cities in Malaysia, together with George Town in the northern Malay Peninsula.
The city is located on both sides of the Malacca River near its mouth on the Straits of Malacca. Due to large-scale land reclamation, it has grown in size, especially in the south and its physical features are characterised by flat and gently undulating land stretching from its coast. The historic central area of the city is located near the old coastline and includes St Paul’s Hill with the ruins of the Portuguese fortress and the Dutch Square on the right or eastern bank of the river, and the old Chinatown on the left or western bank. The Chinese Hill or Bukit Cina, where a large old Chinese cemetery is located, was formerly located to the northeast of the city but is now surrounded by new buildings on all sides.
Kota Tinggi The largest district in Johor, Kota Tinggi is a town and capital of the Kota Tinggi District. Kuala Sedili or Tanjung Sedili, a small fishing town located 37 km northeast of Kota Tinggi town, is the second largest fishing port on the East coast of Peninsular Malaysia. It is one of the major towns of the state.
Kota Tinggi is known as a historical town because the Sultanate of Johor was established there. Many historical tombs are found here including the Sultan Mahmud Mangkat Di Julang Mausoleum, Makam Bendahara Tun Habib Abdul Majid and Makam Tauhid in Kampung Makam. Makam Laksamana Bentan is located in Kampung Kelantan. The town itself is called Daerah Pelancongan Bersejarah or The Historical Tourism District.
Kota Tinggi was hardest hit by the floods that devastated Johor and some parts of Pahang, Melaka, and Negeri Sembilan in 2006 and 2007. Nearly 100,000 people had to be evacuated to rescue centres. The first flood wave sunk almost the whole town of Kota Tinggi. The second wave exceeded even the height of the first wave and the town was underwater for nearly two weeks and isolated from other towns due to landslides and flooding.
The Kota Tinggi Waterfalls at Lombong, 16 km northwest of the town, is a local favourite. The waterfalls are 36 m high and are located at the base of the 634-meter-high Gunung Muntahak mountain. There are two falls, one found at the park’s entrance while the other is nestled further down the trail. The river water drains through a series of shallow pools used for swimming. The natural environment of some parts of the location has somewhat been spoiled by resort development with artificial landscaping.
Nestled in Kota Tinggi, concealed by the famous Kota Tinggi Waterfall, lies the beautiful, untouched, and unexplored Gunung Muntahak hill. This hill is the source of the Kota Tinggi waterfall which rises to a height of about 634 metres. Although the peak does not offer a great view due to the presence of other smaller hills and lush green vegetation, the trail leading up to the summit is a true sight to behold.
There are also many beaches along the coastal part of Kota Tinggi. The most popular beaches are Tanjung Balau, Desaru and Batu Layar which are 58 km, 55 km, and 62 km from Kota Tinggi town respectively. Teluk Sengat, located 25 km east of Kota Tinggi, is a village visited by tourists for its seafood.
The Desaru Ostrich Farm is regarded as one of the largest ostrich farms in Malaysia and is home to about 200 ostriches. Some of the activities include feeding and riding the ostriches. A guided tour of the farm is also available. The highlight of the tour is when the guide demonstrates the opening of an ostrich egg. Mouth-watering food and a souvenir store can also be found inside the farm.
Situated in Teluk Sengat, the Teluk Sengat Crocodile Farm is regarded as the largest crocodile farm in Malaysia. Sprawling across an area of 10 acres, this farm houses approximately 1000 saltwater crocodiles. It is interesting to note that some of these magnificent crocodiles are about 155 years old.
Desaru Fruit Farm is a marvellous agro-tourism site that houses over 100 species of plants, fruits and trees. It also houses a petting zoo, a go-kart track, a fish pond as well as a paintball activity area. Sprawling across an area of about 180 acres, this farm houses a unique variety of tropical seasonal and tropical non-seasonal fruits. The farm only uses natural organic techniques of plantation and also practices sustainability. Due to its sustainable plantation techniques and humongous variety of plant species the Desaru Fruit Farm has been honoured with several awards. Guided tours are also available here.
Firefly Valley Leisure Park is a fascinating destination located about 3 km from the intersection point of Kota Tinggi town and the Bypass. The tour includes a mystical journey down the river and a friendly visit to the mini-farm. Boat tours and cruises are available during the evening.
Muzium Nelayan Tanjung Balau is the only museum in Malaysia that is dedicated to fishermen. It houses artefacts and replicas of many fishing equipment like nets, boats and oars. The dioramas, posters and films give one the feeling of being in a traditional fisherman’s village. The museum contains a huge variety of stones, and rocks and it also houses a model of a Chinese vessel that sank in the 1830s. The museum is open from 9 am to 6 pm.
The Kota Johor Lama Museum gives an insight into the old Johor Fort and also provides information about the local history and culture of the Johor Lama. The museum houses several remains of the Johor Fort which was built by Sultan Alauddin Riayat Shah II. The commemorative stone inscription that is housed in the premises of the museum gives an insight into the history of the Johor Fort.
Situated in Kota Tinggi, Thekchen Choling Malaysia is a Chinese and Tibetan Buddhist temple of the Mahayana sect. The temple houses one of the largest statues of the Bodhisattva, Avalokitesvara constructed in Tibetan style. The statue rises to a height of about 36 feet and is the largest Thousand-Armed Chenrezig statue in Southeast Asia.
Mersing Mersing is a small coastal town located about 128 km northeast of Johor Bahru and is well-known for its ferry jetty ports that to several islands nearby. Most of the people pass through Mersing while going to Tioman Island.
Mersing town is particularly significant for several reasons. It is one of only two major towns situated in the eastern half of the state, the other being Kota Tinggi, and lies on the main trunk road that connects southern as well as eastern Johor with the east coast of Pahang including Pahang’s capital Kuantan. It is also part of the Federal Route, and it is the main departure point for ferries to the nearby offshore islands such as Pulau Rawa of Sultan Iskandar Marine Park and Tioman Island. Mersing port in the mouth of Mersing River is also the main port for ferries to Tioman Island and the more than 40 other islands in the Seribuat Archipelago.
The Malays of Mersing are unique compared to the rest of Johor in that many of them are of Terengganu ancestry, which is proven by the Keropok Lekor industries which is popular in the town and many still speak Terengganu Malay along with the Johor dialect of Malay. The Chinese community in Mersing mainly belongs to the Cantonese dialect group and speak Cantonese, however, many locals, especially business owners have no issue conversing in Mandarin. Seafood is the prime attraction of Mersing.
Situated on the coast of the South China Sea, the Air Papan Beach is one of the most beautiful and cleanest beaches in Mersing. The coastline of the beach is dotted with rice paddies and coconut trees. Since the water is quite clean, one can take a dip in the refreshing and cool water. The beach is also famous for the Pesta Air Papan festival which is celebrated on May 01.
Sri Subramaniam Temple is a beautiful temple that is located beside the Hock Soon Chinese temple. This ornate temple is dedicated to Lord Subramaniam, who is also referred to as Lord Murugan. The history of this temple dates back over a hundred years during which it was established by the Mersing Estate Management. The temple is adorned with beautiful pillars, altars and vibrant ceiling decorations. Some of the famous festivals and events that are hosted at Sri Subramaniam Temple include Thaipusam, Pangkuni Uthiram with Annathanam and Kandha Shashti. The temple is open between 6 and 10 am and then again between 4 and 9 pm.
Situated along Jalan Jemaluang, the Fushun or Hock Soon Temple is regarded as one of the most beautiful Chinese temples in Mersing. Dedicated to the Chinese God of Mercy, Tua Pek Kong, its history dates more than 100 years. This temple is majorly painted in red and is constructed in the Taoist style and is adorned with beautiful carvings. The temple is open from 8 am to 7 pm daily.
A must-visit spot in Mersing is the Masjid Jamek Bandar, a legendary mosque located at the top of the hill with a panoramic view of the area. Masjid Jamek Bandar is a stunning pre-African structured mosque that radiates a sense of calm and tranquillity. The Masjid provides a panoramic view of the town and the South China Sea. The construction of the blue and white mosque was completed in 1956. The mosque is well-lit up at night which makes it a true treat to the eye.
Located 32 km from Mersing, the Mersing Marine Park Centre is an information centre that provides a deep insight into the marine parks of Malaysia. This centre is located inside the Pulau Tinggi Marine Park. The main focus of the information centre is on the Johor Marine Park. One can also learn about the protection and conservation of natural ecology and habitats.
Located opposite the ferry terminal in Mersing, the Mersing Harbour Centre is the best place to book ferry tickets to Tioman and make other reservations. This harbour centre has replaced the old and traditional ticket counters which were rather unorganised. One can also book their stay at a resort or pay for the Marine Park ticket. The harbour centre also has a food and drinks section, souvenir stores and a Tourist Information Centre.
Gunung Arong is a recreational forest reserve that is situated in Endau. The forest reserve is nestled on a hill which rises up to a height of about 273 m. The peak offers a panoramic view of the scintillating South China Sea and Tanjung Resang. While Gunung Arong is a great place for trekkers, it can be easily climbed by children as well. One can also visit the nearby beach and Pulau Mawar Island.
Nestled in Mersing, Tanjung Resang Beach is a beautiful beach that stretches as far as the eye can see. While rough waves can be witnessed at sea, a strong wind can be sensed at the shore. The beach has a sombre shade of sand and it is dotted with dense outcrops. It is known for watersports like scuba diving, skimboarding, windsurfing, fishing, and kitesurfing. One might be able to catch a glimpse of dolphins at sea and can also visit the nearby reefs by taking a jetty from the Tanjung Resang Beach.
Batu Pahat Batu Pahat is located about 55 km south of Muar and 132 km north of Johor Bahru. The coast of the Straits of Melaka lies to the south. The town acquired the name Batu Pahat, which means chiselled stone, from the quarries near the estuary. There are multiple theories as to the origin of this name. In around 1456, the Siamese army, led by Admiral Awi Di Chu, camped in Batu Pahat before attacking Malacca. Legend has it that the invading Siamese troops were chiselling rocks at a rocky spot in the coastal village of Kampung Minyak Beku, to get fresh water during their retreat from the Melaka troops, led by Tun Perak, the famous Bendahara or Prime Minister of the Malacca Sultanate. Another possible explanation for the origin of the name is the fortress A Famosa built by the Portuguese after capturing Melaka, which was made from granite rocks taken from the mouth of Sungai Batu Pahat.
Renowned for its salted fish in the past, Batu Pahat was formerly known as Bandar Penggaram, which means the town of salt-makers. In 1893-1894, the present township was founded by Dato’ Bentara Luar, Mohamed Salleh bin Perang, acting on the orders of the Sultan of Johor, Sultan Abu Bakar. The main economic activities in the district are furniture manufacturing, food processing and agritourism.
Batu Pahat was the location of the headquarters for the Fiji Infantry Regiment, serving as part of the Commonwealth forces during the Malayan Emergency, from 1952 to 1956. The 1,600-strong-force saw considerable action during the campaign and contributed to the securing of the area during that period. On 16 October 1980, at approximately 9:30 am, 20 Muslim extremists led by Mohd. Nasir Ismail, stormed the Batu Pahat Police Station with machetes, slashing and injuring 23 police staff and civilians. 8 of the extremists were shot dead by the police. The motive of the attack was never fully determined.
Today, the ancient well can still be found in Minyak Beku, though little was done to maintain this ancient landmark which gives name to the town. It is the perfect place to watch the tranquil red-orange sunset. Menyak Beku is also noticeable for its historically significant well which has several mysterious stories attached to it. For the town’s centennial celebration in the early 1990s, a quaint monument depicting a floating hand chiselling a rock was set up in the town square. It became the landmark of the town instantaneously. Currently, the newly refurbished town square is popular with locals on weekend nights and also provides as a venue for many public festive celebrations. Lover’s Bridge is a jetty that extends out to the sea. It is located in Segenting, overseeing the River Perak and is a popular sunset viewing spot. It is also well-known for breathtaking orange sunsets and is the ultimate spot for photography. People also visit Lover’s Bridge for star gazing as one can marvel at the clear sight of twinkling stars and have a soothing night.
Chong Long Gong Temple is a Chinese Temple that is situated in the fishing village of Segenting, a small town in Minyak Beku. The main attraction is the deity of Fu De Zheng God or Tua Pek Kong. Other deities worshipped here are the Nezha, The Marshal of Central Altar, the Dragon Sea Emperor and the God of Fortune. It also claims to house the legendary fortune fish, the humongous six feet long Arapaima that claims to bring good fortune to those who can touch it or do fish stroking.
Pantai Minyak Beku also known as the frozen oil village is a beach situated in Batu Pahat. The beach offers a serene and peaceful ambience and is a beautiful picnic spot to enjoy a leisurely day with friends and family. There is a temple within a walking distance from the beach located in a cave. Swimming should be avoided at this beach. Referred to as Tarzan Valley by the locals or Hutan Lipur more popularly, the forest holds a huge range of exquisite flora and fauna along with some waterfalls. It is a popular hiking spot. It is advisable to travel here with a local guide so that it is easier to locate the area. The climb is high and to ease it, there is a seating arrangement. It takes about 20-30 minutes to reach the top.
Old Street is a commercial centre that is situated as a junction node between Jalan Kluang – Taman Sri Jaya – Jalan Parit Besar which is also considered to be the Golden Triangle. It has a very contemporary and strategic design with a skywalk for visitors. It has a plethora of shopping sites and cafes. The DIY playground in Batu Pahat is a small park made with recyclable materials. The playground was built by an old man featured on multiple media platforms for turning throwaway items and junk into an enjoyable experience. A weekend art market and festival during June – August is hosted here. Street Mural Art in Batu Pahat is an unconventional tourist attraction. This fresco activity was started by a group of young adults interested in making Batu Pahat a hub for art, culture and freestyle.
Muar Also known as Bandar Maharani, Muar was recently been declared the royal town of Johor and is the fourth largest city in Johor. This city oozes tradition and culture which are reflected in its heritage architecture. Known and explored for pre-war architecture, temples and some good restaurants and Chinese teahouses, Muar is an offbeat stop between Melaka and Johor Bahru.
The historical pre-war well-preserved commercial building still dominates the town’s architecture. Muar’s roads are all painted a certain colour while most of the heritage buildings are inscribed with the year of their construction. The city’s primary action is centred around the Muar Riverside, lined with mosques, colonial houses, and parks. The Ching Giap See Temple is the largest Buddhist temple in the state. Historical attractions in Muar include the Bukit Kepong Police Station, Kubu Bentayan, and the Sultan Alauddin Riayat Shah I Mausoleum. Other attractions of this town include Tanjung Emas, a recreational park that has a river cruise for tourists, mural arts, the ferry pier, and the opera house. Muar is one of the cleanest cities in South East Asia, being awarded the Asean Clean Tourist City Standard Award in 2017.
Muar is also known for its Nyonya style otak otak or fish cakes and satay breakfasts along with Malay food such as mee bandung Muar, rojak, satay, and asam pedas. Javanese cuisine and desserts like pisang goreng, and mee siput Muar, a local snack eaten with sambal, is only available in Muar.
Muar is said to have had other names earlier and the name Muar is believed to have originated and derived from its geographical location at the mouth or estuary of the Muar River. Muar was formerly known as Teluk Dalam which means a deep bay due to its location at the estuary or the structure of the mouth of the Muar River which is wide open and deep. The name Muar is also said to be derived from an old Malay word, Muara which means a wide open estuary. There is also a hill not far from Muar near Parit Jawa in the south of the Padang area called Mor Hill or Bukit Mor which may be the origin of the name of Muar.
The modern town of Muar was officially conferred the name Bandar Maharani by Sultan Abu Bakar which translated as the Town of Empress the namesake of Maharani Fatimah who also graced the grand inauguration ceremony of the new town on 12 August 1887, to symbolically represent and recognise the prominence status of Muar as the second important and biggest town and district of the state of Johor after Johor Bahru the capital city in those days. Today, an auspicious amulet or azimat is said to be buried under the ground at Tangga Batu near the Hentian Maharani bus station. There are a few old historic legends which evolved around the area of Muar namely, Hikayat Malim Deman or the Epic of Malim Deman, Legenda Lembing Awang Pulang Ke Dayang or Awang’s Spear Return to Dayang Legend and Legenda Puteri Gunung Ledang or the Mount Ledang Princess’ Legend.
Muar is rich in history as mentioned in many historical records and archaeological works. It is believed that the history of Muar started much earlier than the Sultanate of Malacca. There are many accounts recorded about the early history of Muar. In 1361, it was claimed that Muar was a part of the Majapahit empire. Another account also stated that Parameswara, upon his exile from Temasik before proceeding to found Melaka, had established a settlement at Kota Buruk, Pagoh, Ulu Muar, Muar witnessing the beginning of the Malacca Sultanate empire. Historically, Muar was also where the deposed heir of the Malacca Sultanate escaped to in 1511 following the invasion of the Portuguese, launched from Goa. During the Portuguese’s Afonso de Albuquerque invasion and attack in 1511, Muar played a role in resisting the Portuguese occupation of Malacca; the Kubu Bentayan fort was built by the last Sultan of Malacca, Sultan Mahmud to repel seaborne invasions, before he was defeated and retreat further to Pagoh, this time witnessing the fall of the Malacca Sultanate empire. During the Portuguese occupation era, the Portuguese built a fortress named Fortaleza de Muar to defend the colony against the attack by the Dutch and Aceh instead at the same strategic site of Bentayan. The colonial British did just about the same thing at the Muar River site near Bentayan in defence against the advance of the Japanese Imperial Army in the Battle of Muar in World War II. Muar is also the home of the only tomb of the seventh Malacca Sultanate, Sultan Alauddin Riayat Shah I (1477–1488). During the time of the beginning of Bugis immigration from Sulawesi Indonesia and their influence in Johor Sultanate, the five Bugis pioneer prince-brothers sea-warriors or rather pirates from Sulawesi, are said to have come to reside in Liang Batu, Lenga, Muar before they and their descendants become the influential Temenggungs and even rulers later.
The prosperity and rapid development of Muar made it the only town in Malaysia ever to have had its local railway network in the early days. The Muar State Railway (MSR) operated from 1889 to 1925, linking Jalan Sulaiman in Bandar Maharani and Sungai Pulai for a distance of 22.5 km. A 1916 plan to extend the line to Batu Pahat was aborted and the service stopped in 1925 due to financial and geographical constraints and its reduced importance after the construction of Jalan Abdul Rahman linking the Muar town and Parit Jawa. It remains a memory and is only a part of the history of Muar now with just the MSR steam locomotive relic on display at Tanjung Emas Park.
The flat terrain of Muar’s geographical ground and areas has enabled the extensive use of bicycle and tricycle vehicles as the main major mode of transportation in Muar in the early days. This is believed to be the main factor and reason Muar was once the town with the most bicycles and the only town that requires a valid license issued by the town council to own and use a bicycle in the country.
In the town centre, rows of well-preserved pre-war commercial buildings still dominate the town’s architecture. There are many old shophouses and Chinese guilds and association buildings with unique elements in their structure and architecture still preserved in the town. Because Muar is the royal city of Johor, there is an official palace with a helipad situated at the Muar river bank at Jalan Petrie near Tanjung Emas.
The beautifully designed Sultan Ibrahim Jamek Mosque is located close to the river Muar. The building has architectural influences from Western and South Asian regions. The Renaissance-style architecture at the bottom well contradicts the marvellous minaret on the roof that is of Turkish style. The inside of the mosque has a small fountain-like arrangement and the overall structure of the mosque is painted in white and sky blue, looking like a perfect fusion of European and Asian architecture.
The Muar River is a beautiful water body famous for the Battle of Muar which was fought here in 1942 between the Japanese and British troops during World War II. The Muar River is bridged by the Sultan Ismail Bridge and the Muar Second Bridge. The Sultan Ismail Bridge is a well-designed bridge built across the Muar River to directly connect the town to Melaka and allow the free flow of traffic. Built in the 1960s before which the locals had to avail a ferry to get across the river, it has a stretch of approximately 400m and offers some stunning views of the flowing river and the Muar clock tower at the entrance. The tall three-storeyed clock tower in Muar is a spectacular colonial architectural landmark, just opposite the Sultan Ismail Bridge. The beautiful building is painted white and blue with its bottom storeys being rectangular and a cylindrical top with a clock attached to it. It has a spiral staircase in the centre of the building to get to the top but is inaccessible to visitors.
The Bukit Kepong Police Station has a history museum and is known for the brutal attack by communist terrorists on 23 February 1950 in the Bukit Kepong Incident during the Malayan Emergency period. Kubu Bentayan is the last fortress of the retreating last Malacca Sultanate’s Sultan Mahmud Shah before it fell during the attack of the Portuguese in the 15th century. Situated at the mouth of the Sungai Bentayan or the Bentayan Express Bus Station, formerly Pagoh Bus Stand, today. Another fortress built by the Portuguese later, Fortaleza de Muar was also believed to be situated in the same area. The tomb of Sultan Alauddin Riayat Shah I, seventh Sultan of Malacca Sultanate from 1477 to 1488 is located at Kampung Raja, Ulu Pagoh. Jorak, Bukit Pasir, Pagoh is where the founder of the Malacca Sultanate, Parameswara, stayed for more than 10 years upon his exile from Temasik or Singapore before proceeding to Malacca. It is said another historic fort Biawak Busuk, constructed by Parameswara, is also located nearby.
Maharani Mural Lane which is located on Jalan Sisi Street is a unique lane adorned with street art. While several murals can be found here, they do not depict any particular theme. Some of the murals depict the history and culture of Muar while some represent popular cartoon characters. The Tanjung Emas Park is a beautiful riverside park with a walking track and lush green lawns. There are several shaded areas where one can relax and rejuvenate. The park is open daily between 9:30 am and 11:30 pm. Situated at the Muar Bypass, the Don Hu Jurassic Garden houses over 50 life-size dinosaur sculptures. These sculptures represent several species of dinosaurs and also houses a souvenir store where one can purchase dinosaur toys. The park is open between 10 am and 5 pm.
Situated on Jalan Maharani Road, the Muar Nan Hai Fei Lai Temple is a beautiful Chinese temple that is dedicated to Goddess Kuan Yin aka the Goddess of Mercy. While the temple houses a beautiful statue of the principal deity, Goddess Kuan Yin, it also houses a gorgeous courtyard, a prayer hall, and an intricately decorated roof.
The Gunung Ledang National Park is located on the outskirts of Muar and is known for Mount Ledang or Gunung Ledang. The highest peak in Johor at 1276 m, this mountain is moderately difficult to climb. Also regarded as a spiritual place, the mountain has several trails to start from but it is mandatory to recruit a guide from the park ranger’s office. This mountain is home to the splendid Puteri waterfalls that cascade to the bottom forming a pool making it a wonderful picnic and bathing spot.
This is the end of our visit to the state of Johor. Our next state will be the state of Melaka coming soon.
You Are a Global Citizen: A Guided Journal for the Culturally Curious – Damon Dominique
So you’re here. The world dealt you a random card, and you’re dealing with it.
Maybe right now is the first time you’re even realizing you got dealt a card. You did! You Are A Global Citizen ignites your inner curiosity and provokes self-discovery through thought-provoking questions about the cultures you have experienced–including your own–all while helping you become a more inquisitive, aware, observant, and engaged world citizen.
Whether you’ve never left home, are studying at university, are looking to live and move abroad, or are simply curious about your own identity within a global society, this book will help you understand how the outside world impacts what’s going on inside your mind, and vice versa.
In three sections covering your origins, your external environment and your internal environment, with space for reflection at the beginning and end, Damon Dominique, pioneer of the modern day social media travel scene and star of countless popular You Tube travel vlogs and documentaries, shares his insights and stories from a decade of globetrotting.
He guides you through questions such as, ‘Would you be happy if you knew you had to live in your hometown for the rest of your life?’, ‘What culture or country do you remember romanticizing about as a kid?’, and ‘How do you feel about a global language?’, with the ultimate goal of encouraging you to consider the fundamental questions about who you are, what culture is and what it means to live in a global society, beyond the borders of our minds and countries.
Memories and Such 
