Travel Bucket List: India – Delhi Part 1

Posted on January 9, 2023 by memoriesandsuch

The last state in my series about the various Indian states, Delhi, or officially the National Capital Territory or NCT of Delhi, is a city and a union territory of India containing New Delhi, the capital of India. Straddling the Yamuna river, primarily its western or right bank, Delhi shares borders with the state of Uttar Pradesh in the east and with the state of Haryana in the remaining directions. Delhi’s urban agglomeration, which includes the satellite cities of Ghaziabad, Faridabad, Gurgaon, and Noida in an area known as the National Capital Region (NCR), has an estimated population of over 28 million, making it the largest metropolitan area in India and the second-largest in the world, after Tokyo.

The topography of the medieval fort Purana Qila on the banks of the river Yamuna matches the literary description of the citadel Indraprastha in the Sanskrit epic Mahabharata; however, excavations in the area have revealed no signs of an ancient built environment. From the early 13th century until the mid-19th century, Delhi was the capital of two major empires, the Delhi sultanate and the Mughal Empire, which covered large parts of South Asia. All three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city, the Qutub Minar, Humayun’s Tomb, and the Red Fort, belong to this period. Delhi was the early centre of Sufism and Qawwali music and the names of Nizamuddin Auliya and Amir Khusrau are prominently associated with the city. The Khariboli dialect of Delhi was part of a linguistic development that gave rise to the literature of the Urdu language and then of Modern Standard Hindi.

Delhi was a major centre of the Indian Rebellion of 1857. In 1911, New Delhi, a southern region within Delhi, became the capital of the British Indian Empire. During the Partition of India in 1947, Delhi was transformed from a Mughal city to a Punjabi one, losing two-thirds of its Muslim residents, in part due to the pressure brought to bear by arriving Hindu refugees from western Punjab. After independence in 1947, New Delhi continued as the capital of the Dominion of India, and after 1950, the Republic of India.

Delhi has the second-highest GDP per capita in India after Goa and although a union territory, the political administration of the NCT of Delhi today more closely resembles that of a state of India, with its legislature, high court, and an executive council of ministers headed by a Chief Minister. New Delhi is jointly administered by the federal government of India and the local government of Delhi and serves as the capital of the nation as well as the NCT of Delhi.

There are several myths and legends associated with the origin of the name Delhi. One of them is derived from Dhillu or Dilu, a king who built a city at this location in 50 BC and named it after himself. Another legend holds that the name of the city is based on the Hindi or Prakrit word Dhili which means loose and that it was used by the Tomaras to refer to the city because the iron pillar of Delhi had a weak foundation and had to be moved. During the time of King Prithviraj, the name of the city was Dilpat, and Dilpat and Dilli are probably derived from the old Hindi word dil which means eminence which later became Dihli or Dehli. According to the Bhavishya Purana, King Prithiviraja of Indraprastha built a new fort in the modern-day Purana Qila area for the convenience of all four castes in his kingdom. He ordered the construction of a gateway to the fort and later named the fort Dehali with some historians believing that Dhilli or Dhillika is the original name for the city while others believe the name could be a corruption of the Hindustani words dehleez or dehali, both terms meaning threshold or gateway and are symbolic of the city as a gateway to the Gangetic Plain. The form Delhi, used in Latin script and strangely with an h following an l, originated under colonial rule and is a corrupt spelling based on the Urdu name of the city, Dehli.

Traditionally seven cities have been associated with the region of Delhi. The earliest, Indraprastha, is part of a literary description in the Mahabharata which was composed between 400 BCE to 200 CE but describes an earlier time which situates a city on a knoll on the banks of the river Yamuna. According to experts, the topographical description of the Mahabharata matches the area of Purana Qila, a 14th-century fort of the Delhi sultanate, but the analogy does not go much further. While the Mahabharata speaks of a beautifully decorated city with surrounding fortification, the excavations have yielded uneven findings of painted grey pottery characteristic of the eleventh century BC; no signs of a built environment, much fewer fortifications, have been revealed. The earliest architectural relics date back to the Maurya period, around 300 BC. In 1966, an inscription of the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka who ruled between 273–235 BC was discovered near Srinivaspuri. The remains of several major cities can be found in Delhi with the first of these in the southern part of present-day Delhi. King Anang Pal of the Tomara dynasty built Lal Kot and several temples in 1052 which was conquered by Vigraharaj Chauhan in the mid-12th century who renamed it Qila Rai Pithora.

After Prithviraj Chauhan’s defeat in 1192 in the second battle of Tarain by Muhammad Ghori, Qutb-ud-din Aibak, was given the responsibility of governing the conquered territories of India until Ghori returned to his capital, Ghor. When Ghori died without an heir in 1206, Qutb-ud-din assumed control of Ghori’s Indian possessions and laid the foundation of the Delhi Sultanate and the Mamluk dynasty. He began construction of the Qutb Minar and Quwwat-al-Islam or the Might of Islam mosque, the earliest extant mosque in India. His successor, Iltutmish consolidated the Turkic conquest of northern India. At 72.5 m, the Qutb Minar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site was completed during the reign of Sultan Illtutmish in the 13th century. Although its style has some similarities with the Jarkurgan minaret, it is more closely related to the Ghaznavid and Ghurid minarets of Central Asia. Razia, daughter of Iltutmish, became the Sultana of Delhi upon the former’s death.

For the next three hundred years, Delhi was ruled by a succession of Turkic and an Afghan, Lodi dynasty. They built several forts and townships that are part of the seven cities of Delhi and Delhi was a major centre of Sufism during this period. The Mamluk Sultanate was overthrown in 1290 by Jalal ud din Firuz Khalji and under the second Khalji ruler, Ala-ud-din Khalji, the Delhi sultanate extended its control south of the Narmada River in the Deccan. The Delhi sultanate reached its greatest extent during the reign of Muhammad bin Tughluq between 1325 and 1351. In an attempt to bring the whole of the Deccan under control, he moved his capital to Daulatabad, Maharashtra in central India. However, by moving away from Delhi he lost control of the north and was forced to return to Delhi to restore order. The southern provinces then broke away. In the years following the reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq and the Delhi Sultanate rapidly began to lose its hold over its northern provinces. Delhi was captured and sacked by Timur in 1398, who massacred 100,000 captive civilians. Delhi’s decline continued under the Sayyid dynasty who ruled between 1414 and 1451, until the sultanate was reduced to Delhi and its hinterland. Under the Afghan Lodi dynasty between 1451 and 1526, the Delhi sultanate recovered control of Punjab and the Gangetic plain to once again achieve domination over Northern India. However, the recovery was short-lived and the sultanate was destroyed in 1526 by Babur, the founder of the Mughal dynasty.

In 1526, Babur a descendant of Genghis Khan and Timur, from the Fergana Valley in modern-day Uzbekistan invaded India, defeated the last Lodhi sultan in the First Battle of Panipat and founded the Mughal Empire that ruled from Delhi and Agra for more than three centuries, with a sixteen-year hiatus during the reigns of Sher Shah Suri and Hemu from 1540 to 1556. Shah Jahan built the seventh city of Delhi which bears his name Shahjahanabad, which served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1638 and is today known as the Old City or Old Delhi. After the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, the Mughal Empire’s influence declined rapidly as the Hindu Maratha Empire rose to prominence. In 1737, Maratha forces led by Baji Rao I sacked Delhi following their victory against the Mughals in the First Battle of Delhi. In 1739, the Mughal Empire lost the huge Battle of Karnal in less than three hours against the numerically outnumbered but militarily superior Persian army led by Nader Shah of Persia. After his invasion, he completely sacked and looted Delhi, carrying away immense wealth including the Peacock Throne, the Daria-i-Noor, and Koh-i-Noor. The Mughals, severely further weakened, could never overcome this crushing defeat and humiliation which also left the way open for more invaders to come, including eventually the British. Nader Shah eventually agreed to leave the city and India after forcing the Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah I to beg him for mercy and give him the keys to the city and the royal treasury. A treaty signed in 1752 made Marathas the protectors of the Mughal throne in Delhi. The city was sacked again in 1757 by the forces of Ahmad Shah Durrani, although it was not annexed by the Afghan Empire and was its vassal state under the Mughal emperor. Then the Marathas battled and won control of Delhi from the Mughals. By the end of the 18th century, Delhi had also come under the control of the Bharatpur State and the Sikh Empire.

In 1803, during the Second Anglo-Maratha War, the forces of the British East India Company defeated the Maratha forces in the Battle of Delhi. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857, Delhi fell to the forces of the East India Company after a bloody fight known as the Siege of Delhi. The city came under the direct control of the British Government in 1858 and was made a district province of Punjab. In 1911, it was announced that the capital of British-held territories in India was to be transferred from Calcutta to Delhi. The name New Delhi was given in 1927, and the new capital was inaugurated on 13 February 1931. New Delhi was officially declared the capital of the Union of India after the country gained independence on 15 August 1947. It has expanded since; the small part of it that was constructed during the British period has come to be informally known as Lutyens’ Delhi.

During the partition of India, around five lakh Hindu and Sikh refugees, mainly from West Punjab fled to Delhi, while around three lakh Muslim residents of the city migrated to Pakistan. Ethnic Punjabis are believed to account for at least 40% of Delhi’s total population and are predominantly Hindi-speaking Punjabi Hindus. Migration to Delhi from the rest of India continues, contributing more to the rise of Delhi’s population than the birth rate, which is declining.

Two prominent features of the geography of Delhi are the Yamuna flood plains and the Delhi Ridge. The Yamuna River was the historical boundary between Punjab and UP, and its flood plains provide fertile alluvial soil suitable for agriculture but are prone to recurrent floods. The Yamuna, a sacred river in Hinduism, is the only major river flowing through Delhi. The Hindon River separates Ghaziabad from the eastern part of Delhi. The Delhi ridge originates from the Aravalli Range in the south and encircles the west, northeast, and northwest parts of the city, reaching a height of 318 m and is a dominant feature of the region.

The National Capital Territory of Delhi covers an area of 1,483 sq km, of which 783 sq km are rural, and 700 sq km are urban, making it the largest city in terms of area in the country. According to the World Health Organization, WHO, Delhi was the most polluted city in the world in 2014 and downgraded the city to the eleventh-worst in 2016. The Archaeological Survey of India recognises 1,200 heritage buildings and 175 monuments as national heritage sites. Delhi witnesses extreme temperatures. While summers and winters are unbearable, monsoon restricts outdoor activities. The best months to visit Delhi are between February to April and August to November.

India Gate
Synonymous with Delhi, the All India War Memorial, popularly known as the India Gate, is located along the Rajpath on the eastern edge of the ceremonial axis of New Delhi, formerly called the duty path. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the 42 meters tall gate evokes the architectural style of the memorial arch such as the Arch of Constantine, in Rome, and is often compared to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and the Gateway of India in Mumbai. One of the largest war memorials in the country, it is famous for hosting the Republic Day Parade every year when the Prime Minister visits the gate to pay their tributes to the Amar Jawan Jyoti, following which the Republic Day parade starts.

India Gate stands as a memorial to 84,000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who died between 1914 and 1921 in the First World War, in France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, East Africa, Gallipoli and elsewhere in the Near and the Far East, and the Third Anglo-Afghan War. 13,300 servicemen’s names, including some soldiers and officers from the United Kingdom, are inscribed on the gate. Following the Bangladesh Liberation war in 1972, a structure consisting of a black marble plinth with a reversed rifle, capped by a war helmet and bounded by four eternal flames, was built beneath the archway. This structure, called the Amar Jawan Jyoti or the Flame of the Immortal Soldier, has since 1971 served as India’s tomb of the unknown soldier. The memorial is guarded 24/7 by soldiers of the Indian Armed Forces. On 21 January 2022, the Amar Jawan Jyoti at India Gate was merged with the Amar Jawan Jyoti at the National War Memorial.

Though India gate is breathtaking at absolutely any hour of the day, its magnificence is even more during the hours after sunset. The gate is illuminated every evening from 7 to 9:30 pm and serves as one of Delhi’s most important tourist attractions.

Red Fort
Lal Qila or Red Fort is a historic fort in Old Delhi, that served as the main residence of the Mughal Emperors. Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned the construction of the Red Fort on 12 May 1638, when he decided to shift his capital from Agra to Delhi. Originally red and white, its design is credited to architect Ustad Ahmad Lahori, who also constructed the Taj Mahal. The fort represents the peak in Mughal architecture under Shah Jahan and combines Persianate palace architecture with Indian traditions.

The fort was plundered of its artwork and jewels during Nadir Shah’s invasion of the Mughal Empire in 1739 and most of the fort’s marble structures were subsequently demolished by the British following the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The fort’s defensive walls were largely undamaged, and the fortress was subsequently used as a garrison. The Red Fort was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007 as part of the Red Fort Complex.

On 15 August 1947, the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, raised the Indian flag above the Lahori Gate. Every year on India’s Independence Day, the Prime Minister hoists the Indian tricolour flag at the fort’s main gate and delivers a nationally broadcast speech from its ramparts.

Formerly known as Quila-e-Mubarak or the Blessed Fort, the Red Fort lies along the banks of the river Yamuna, whose waters fed the moats surrounding the fort. It was a part of the medieval city of Shahjahanabad, popularly known today as Old Delhi. The entire fort complex is said to represent the architectural creativity and brilliance of Mughal architecture. Today, the Archaeological Survey of India is responsible for the security and preservation of this monument.

The Red Fort is surrounded by a 2 km perimeter wall which acted as an effective defensive measure. The structure of the fort is octagonal, and it has several gates, the prominent ones being the Lahori Gate, the Ajmeri Gate, the Kashmiri Gate, the Mori Gate, the Turkman Gate, and the Delhi Gate. The most prominent structures inside the fort are the Diwan-i-Aam, the Diwan-i-Khaas, the Moti Masjid, and the Nahr-i-Bashisht or the stream of paradise. Also known as the Hall of Public Audience, the Diwan-i-Am is a rectangular hall consisting of three aisles, with a façade of nine arches. There were six marble palaces along the eastern waterfront originally. A waterchannel, called the Nahr-i-Bihisht runs through it, with an ivory fountain fitted with a central marble basin. The Mumtaz-Mahal now houses the Delhi Fort Museum. The Diwan-i-Khas or the Hall of Private Audience is a beautifully decorated pillared hall, with a flat ceiling supported by engrailed arches. The Peacock Throne is said to have been kept here before being taken away by Nadir Shah. The Hammam or Bath consists of three prime sections divided by corridors and is completely built of marble and inlaid with coloured stones. The Moti-Masjid or Pearl Mosque, which was added later by Aurangzeb is to the west of the Hamman. The red-stone pavilion in the middle of the tank in the centre of the Hayat-Bakhsh-Bagh is called the Zafar-Mahal and was built by Bahadur Shah II in about 1842. Most of these buildings were inlaid with precious stones and intricate floral motives. The unique cusped arches, highly intricate ornamentation and the double domes are the most important features of the Red Fort’s architecture, something which became a trademark of Shahjahani architecture. To contain the older Salimgarh Fort inside its boundaries, the walls were built asymmetrically, unlike any other Mughal buildings. The Red Fort remained the seat of Imperial Mughal Rule till 1857 when the Great Revolt took place.

The Fort saw its degradation after Aurangzeb’s rule. In 1712, Farrukhsiyar replaced the silver ceilings with copper and in 1739, the Persian Emperor Nadir Shah invaded Delhi and looted the Red Fort, taking away with himself the precious Peacock throne. The Fort was captured, plundered, and attacked several times between 1739 and 1857 by Ahmad Shah, the Marathas, the Sikhs, and the British. To raise funds for the defence of armies from Ahmad Shah Durrani, the Marathas sold the silver ceiling of Diwan-e-Khas in 1760. The last Mughal emperor, and last Mughal resident of the Fort, Bahadur Shah II was exiled to Burma after the revolt of 1857, ending the rule of the Mughals after two centuries.

The fort was then occupied by the British Colonial Rulers, who plundered many precious artefacts including the Kohinoor diamond, the Jade Wine Cup of Shah Jahan, and the crown of Bahadur Shah II. They planned a systematic destruction of the Fort which included the destruction of furniture, gardens, harem apartments, and servant quarters. Except for the white marble buildings, almost all of the inner structure was destroyed. In 1899, when Lord Curzon became the Viceroy of India, he ordered the reconstruction of the buildings and the gardens were also restored.

There is a Light and Sound Show which is held every evening except on Mondays and is a must-see for visitors to the capital. A one-hour visual extravaganza of light and sound inside the premises is the best way to learn about the history of the Fort. The show in Hindi takes place between 7:30 and 8:30 pm and in English between 9 and 10 pm. Ticket prices during weekdays are INR 60 for adults and INR 20 for children while during weekends and government holidays it is INR 80 for adults and INR 30 for children.

Qutub Minar
A victory tower, the Qutub Minar forms part of the Qutub complex, which lies at the site of Delhi’s oldest fortified city, Lal Kot, founded by the Tomar Rajputs. It was begun after the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the first ruler of the Delhi Sultanate. Built between 1199 and 1220, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Mehrauli and one of the most visited tourist spots in the city.

It can be compared to the 62-metre all-brick Minaret of Jam in Afghanistan, which was constructed a decade or so before the probable start of the Delhi tower. The surfaces of both are elaborately decorated with inscriptions and geometric patterns. The Qutb Minar has a shaft that is fluted with stalactite bracketing under the balconies at the top of each stage.

The Qutub Minar is a symbol of the synthesis of traditional Islamic architecture and Southwestern Asian design. The architecture of the minaret varies greatly from that of the typical style and design of the mosques constructed in the Middle East with the style heavily influenced by local architecture such as the Indic temples which in turn affected the materials, techniques, and decorations used in the construction of the Qutb Minar.

The Minar is surrounded by several historically significant monuments of the Qutb complex. The Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, to the northeast of the Minar, was built by Qutub-ud-Din Aibak in 1198. It is the earliest extant mosque built by the Delhi Sultans. It consists of a rectangular courtyard enclosed by cloisters, erected with the carved columns and architectural members of 27 Jain and Hindu temples, which were demolished by Qutub-ud-Din Aibak as recorded in his inscription on the main eastern entrance. Later, a lofty arched screen was erected, and the mosque was enlarged, by Shams-ud- Din Itutmish and Ala-ud-Din Khalji. The Iron Pillar in the courtyard bears an inscription in Sanskrit in the Brahmi script of the fourth century, according to which the pillar was set up as a Vishnudhvaja or the standard of Lord Vishnu on the hill known as Vishnupada in memory of a mighty king named Chandra. The mosque complex is one of the earliest that survives in the Indian subcontinent.

The nearby pillared cupola known as Smith’s Folly is a remnant of the tower’s 19th-century restoration, which included an ill-advised attempt to add some more stories. Earthquakes damaged the Qutub Minar in 1505 and 1803 after which the tower was renovated in 1828 and a pillared cupola was installed over the fifth story, creating a sixth. The cupola was taken down in 1848, under instructions from Viscount Hardinge, who was the Governor General of India. at the time. It was reinstalled at ground level to the east of Qutb Minar, where it remains and is known as Smith’s Folly today.

The height of Qutb Minar is 72.5 m, making it the tallest minaret in the world built of bricks. The tower tapers, and has a 14.3 m base diameter, reducing to 2.7 m at the top of the peak. It contains a spiral staircase of 379 steps. At the foot of the tower is the Quwat Ul Islam Mosque. The Minar tilts just over 65 cm from the vertical, which is considered to be within safe limits.

There are many stories of the Qutb Minar which consists of five stories of red and grey sandstone. The lowest story, also known as the basement story, was completed during the lifetime of Ghiyeth al-Din Muhammad, a sultan during the Ghurid dynasty. It is revetted with twelve semicircular and twelve flanged pilasters that are placed in alternating order. This story is separated by flanges and by storied balconies, carried on Muqarnas corbels. The story is placed on top of a low circular plinth that is inscribed with a twelve-pointed star with a semicircle placed with each of the angles between the star’s points. There are also six horizontal bands with inscriptions inscribed in naskh, a style of Islamic calligraphy, on this story. The second, third, and fourth stories were erected by Sham ud-Din Iltutmish, the first Muslim sovereign to rule from Delhi, considered to be the first of the Delhi Sultan dynastic line. The second and third stories are also revetted with twelve semicircular and twelve flanged pilasters that are placed in alternating order. These red sandstone columns are separated by flanges and by storied balconies, carried on Muqarnas corbels. Before its reconstruction and reduction, the fourth story was also decorated with semicircular pilasters and was reconstructed in white marble and is relatively plain. In 1369, the fourth story was repaired after lightning struck the minaret. During reconstruction, Sultan Firuz Shah Tughlaq elected to reduce the size of the fourth story and then separated it into two stories.

Before 1976, the general public was allowed access to the first floor of the minaret, via the internal staircase. Access to the top was stopped after 2000 due to suicides. On 4 December 1981, the staircase lighting failed and between 300 and 400 visitors stampeded towards the exit, of which 45 were killed and some were injured, mostly schoolchildren. Since then, the tower has been closed to the public and rules regarding entry have been stringent. The Qutb Festival, held at the Qutb Minar during November/December is a three-day festival to celebrate the magnificence of the monument. Organized jointly by the Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation and the Sahitya Kala Parishad, the festival includes cultural shows and art forms.

The Qutb Minar is open between 10 am to 5 pm every day except Sundays and has an entranc fee of INR 40 for Indians and those from SAARC and BIMSTEC countries while foreigners need to pay INR 600 to enter. Children up to the age of 15 with a valid ID enter free.

Jantar Mantar
Located on Parliament Street, Jantar Mantar which means the instruments for measuring the harmony of the heavens is a vast observatory built by Maharaja Jai Singh in 1724. It forms a part of a collection of five observatories located in Jaipur, Ujjain, Varanasi, and Mathura and consists of 13 architectural astronomy instruments.

At a height of 723 feet, the primary purpose of the observatory was to compile astronomical tables and to predict the times and movements of the sun, moon, and planets. The Delhi Jantar Mantar decayed considerably by the 1857 uprising. The Ram Yantra, the Samrat Yantra, the Jai Prakash Yantra, and the Misra Yantra are the four distinct instruments of the Jantar Mantar. The Samrat Yantra, or Supreme Instrument, is a giant triangle that is an equal-hour sundial. It is 70 feet high, 114 feet long at the base, and 10 feet thick. It has a 128-foot hypotenuse that is parallel to the Earth’s axis and points toward the North Pole. On either side of the triangle is a quadrant with graduations indicating hours, minutes, and seconds. At the time of the Samrat Yantra’s construction, sundials already existed, but the Samrat Yantra turned the basic hug sundial into a precision tool for measuring declination and other related coordinates of various heavenly bodies. The Vrihat Samrat Yantra can calculate the local time at an accuracy of up to two seconds and is considered the world’s largest sundial. The Jaya Prakash consists of hollowed-out hemispheres with markings on their concave surfaces. Crosswires were stretched between points on their rim. From inside the Ram, an observer could align the position of a star with various markings or a window’s edge. This is one of the most versatile and complex instruments that can give the coordinates of celestial objects in multiple systems- the Azimuthal-altitude system and the Equatorial coordinate system. This allowed for an easy conversation about the popular celestial system. The Rama Yantra has two large cylindrical structures with an open top used to measure the altitude of stars based on the latitude and the longitude on the earth. The Misra Yantra or the mixed instrument is a composition of 5 instruments designed as a tool to determine the shortest and longest days of the year. It could also be used to indicate the exact moment of noon in various cities and locations regardless of their distance from Delhi. The Misra yantra was able to indicate when it was noon in various cities all over the world and was the only structure in the observatory not invented by Jai Singh II. In the Shasthansa Yantra, using a pinhole camera mechanism that has been built within the towers that support the quadrant scales, can be used to measure specific measurements of the sun such as the zenith distance, declination, and diameter of the sun. Built on the same principle as the Jai Prakash, the instrument in the Kapala Yantra is used more as a demonstration to indicate the transformation of one coordinate system to another and is not used for active celestial observation. At the Rasivalya Yantra, twelve of these structures were built, each referring to the zodiacal constellations by measuring the latitude and longitude of a celestial object at the very moment the celestial object crosses the meridian.

The apparatus here pertains to Egypt’s Ptolemaic astronomy and follows three classical celestial coordinates to track the positions of heavenly bodies, namely the horizon zenith local system, the equatorial system, and the ecliptic system. There also lies a small temple dedicated to Lord Bhairava to the east of the main site built by Maharaja Jai Singh II. The Jantar Mantar is open between 6 am and 6 pm and entry fees for Indians and visitors from SAARC and BIMSTEC countries is INR 15 per person while foreigners pay INR 200 per person. Videography costs are INR 25 per camera.

Rajghat
Loosely translated to Royal Steps, Rajghat lies on the banks of the River Yamuna and is a memorial dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi. Originally the name of a historic ghat of Old Delhi or Shahjahanabad, it was the gate of the old walled city, opening at Raj Ghat to the west bank of the Yamuna River

Several other samadhis or cremation spots of other famous leaders can be found in the vicinity of Raj Ghat. Jawaharlal Nehru’s samadhi is to the north of the Rajghat and is known as the Shantivan meaning the garden of peace. Adjacent to Nehru’s memorial is Ekta Sthal, the site where Zail Singh, the 7th President of India, was cremated with full state honours in 2005.

The memorial at Rajghat is a humble black marble platform which is raised above the ground level and marks the spot of Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation and last rites on 31 January 1948, a day after his assassination. It also has his last words, Hey Ram inscribed on the platform. a day after his assassination. It is left open to the sky while an eternal flame burns at one end. A stone footpath flanked by lawns leads to the walled enclosure that houses the memorial. A prayer is held every Friday, the day he died at Rajghat.

At the Rajghat, one can also take a look at the National Gandhi Museum which has collections and artefacts relating to Mahatma Gandhi. There is a library with a collection of all that was written about or by him and has over 35,000 books or documents including 2,000 periodicals illustrating Gandhi’s life. A gallery in the museum showcases his artefacts such as paintings, one of Gandhi’s walking sticks, the shawl and dhoti worn by Gandhi when he was assassinated, one of the bullets that were used to kill Gandhi, his urn, some of Gandhi’s teeth and his ivory toothpick. Other exhibits related to India’s history are also on display here. One can also watch a film on Mahatma Gandhi’s life and philosophy of the Sarvodaya Movement in either English or Hindi. The films in both languages are shown between 9:30 am and 5:30 pm except on Thursdays. On Sundays, the film is shown in Hindi at 4 pm and in English at 5 pm. Rajghat is open between 6:30 am and 5 pm on all days and entry is free.

Travel Bucket List: India – Mizoram Part 4

Posted on December 30, 2022 by memoriesandsuch

Murlen National Park
Located about 250 km east of Aizwal, the Murlen National Park is close to the Chin Hills, north of the Lengteng Wildlife Sanctuary. The park covers an area of approximately 200 sq km and the tropical, semi-evergreen, and submontane forests of Murlen are home to a rich variety of flora and fauna. About 15 species of mammals, 150 species of birds, 35 species of medicinal plants, two species of bamboo, and four species of orchids have so far been recorded in this park. Murlen National Park is located at Murlen village, which is the village of Saithuama Sailo, the Chief of Hnahlan and is a part of the Hnahlan Village. Murlen was declared a National Park in 1991.

Only about 1% of the sun’s rays can penetrate the forest on a sunny day. So the forest cover in the park can generally be compared to the Amazon region in South America. Some of the trees found in the park are 350 years old and there is an area in the park where the sun’s rays cannot penetrate. For this reason, the area has been known as the losing area of seven fellow men or the land of no return. Two species of Ceropegia belonging to the Asclepiadaceae plant family have been discovered in Murlen National Park. The national park is famous for housing animals like the hoolock gibbon, and the Himalayan Black Bear as well as leopards, tigers, and many other species.

Phawngpui
A quaint and serene village located about 300 km south of Aizwal at an elevation of 2157 m, Phawngpui proffers picturesque views surrounded by verdant trees and lofty mountains. Also known as Blue Mountain, Phawngpui is the highest mountain peak in the Mizo or Lushai Hills. It is in the southeastern region near the Myanmar border. A trek to the top of the mountain will provide amazing views of the whole place which will make one feel as if they are in heaven. The ideal time to visit Phawngpui is between November and April when the weather is pleasant and a cool breeze flows. There is a semicircular series of cliffs on the western side called Thlazuang Khàm, which have a sharp and deep fall; mountain goats live there. These cliffs are believed to be haunted by spirits. On the peak, there is a level ground of about 2 sq km in area.

A highly revered peak, considered to be the abode of local deities, Phawngpui was a major centre of folk religion and a location for folklore stories. The name is derived from the Lai language, with phong, meaning a grassland or meadow, and the suffix pui meaning, great. This was because the mountain was mostly covered with all types of meadows, hence the great meadow. The mountain was, according to the belief of the natives, the abode of several spiritual races. The most important folktale, perhaps, is that of a deity king named Sangau; the actual town at the base of the mountain which has become Sangau. Sangau had a son who married the princess of another royal family called Cherian. At the wedding was an exchange of gifts, a couple of hoolock gibbons from Sangau and a pine tree from Cherian. The base area, the main entrance of the mountain bears the name Farpak which means pine only.

The Chhimtuipui River is a serene river that flows in Phawngpui and is the perfect place to spend some quiet time in the lap of nature. The beauty of the river is captivating during sunrises and sunsets, so if visiting Phawngpui, make time during that time of the day to visit the river. Located 7 km from Phawngpui, Farpak provides picturesque views of nature and is also the base for the trek up to Phawngpui peak. Replete with lush green trees and fauna, some of the commonly spotted animals include clouded leopards and elephants. Sangau is located 30 km from Phawngpui and is another base from where one can trek up the Phawngpui mountain.

Phawngpui National Park
The Phawngpui National Park or The Phawngpui Blue Mountain National Park is one of the two national parks in Mizoram, the other and larger being the Murlen National Park. It is about 300 km from Aizwal, towards the southeast of Mizoram relatively close to Myanmar. The park is named after the Phawngpui mountain, often called the Blue Mountain, the highest mountain peak in the state, reaching 2,157 m asl. The national park covers the entire mountain along with the surrounding reserve forest. In the Lai dialect, Phawng means a meadow and pui is the suffix for great. It is also believed by many that Phawngpui was an abode of God.

The mountain area of Phawngpui is at most times covered by a thin stretch of clouds, which makes it blue in appearance from a distance, hence the name Blue Mountain. It overlooks the River Chhimtuipui flowing towards Myanmar and the edges of the mountains are all very steep and have sharp precipices, with the most spectacular one being a semi-circular beautiful cliff on the western side called Thlazuang Khâm, which has a blunt and deep fall. The mountain ridge runs in a north-south direction covering about 10 km. The closest human settlement is Thaltlang village at the base and periphery of the park.

The Phawngpui National Park provides habitat for a range of birds including the rare Blyth’s tragopan, falcon, sunbirds, dark-rumped swift, and Mrs Hume’s pheasant, which is the Mizoram state bird, and also rare animals like the mountain goat, slow loris, tiger, leopard, leopard cat, serow, goral, Asiatic black bear, stump-tailed macaque and capped langur. In 2000, rare bird species were recorded such as mountain bamboo partridge, oriental pied hornbill, purple cochoa, striped laughing thrush, grey sibia, black eagle and large-billed crow. The clouded leopard or Neofelis nebulosa was spotted and documented for the first time in 1997. The landscape is the natural habitat of various grass and the steep slopes are covered by orchids and rhododendrons, with areas of bamboo.

Ecofriendly visits to the national park are only allowed during the dry season with permits open for six months between November to the end of April. The rest of the season is left for natural development and rejuvenation.

The highest point in the state, Phawngpui Peak is a revered mountain. Also known as the blue mountain, the peak is located within the Phawngpui National Park and oversees a wondrous landscape full of deep crevices and magnificent cliffs. Trekking to the summit of Phawngpui is an experience no adventure lover can let go of. At a height of 2100 m, Phawngpui Peak is considered to be the abode of the Goddess of the Mizo tribes. The peak is made accessible by the state only between November to April and during this time, the route is usually dry and well marked out due to animal movements. The winter months can be cold so multiple layers are needed. The peak and national park are open between 6 am and 5 pm daily and there is a minimal entry fee to the national park.

Saiha
Saiha which is also known as Siaha lies about 300 km south of Aizwal and is the headquarters of the Mara Autonomous District Council, one of the three autonomous district councils within Mizoram. The word Siaha in the local Mara language comes from Sia for Masia which means elephant and ha meaning tooth, so the name translates to an elephant’s tooth. The name came about because it was here that a large number of elephant teeth were found. Though the local people name the town as Siaha, Mizos called it by the name Saiha, which is purely a translated term in the Mizo language.

Saiha is known as the fastest-growing town in Mizoram, as the population has significantly risen in the last decade. The town lies at an average height of 729 meters above sea level and is considered to be a haven for angling enthusiasts.

Lying 130 km to the southwest of Saiha lies the Palak Wildlife Sanctuary, an exquisite display of biodiversity. It is situated in the Lakher region, which lies in the southern part of Mizoram. Not the biggest of wildlife sanctuaries, it is spread across 15.50 sq km and boasts a range of species like the sambar, barking deer, leopard, elephant and rhesus macaque.

Palak Dil, also known as Pala Tipo is located in the Phura village, a few km from the main town of Saiha. The lake’s name in the Mizo language means the swallowing lake and is the largest lake in Mizoram. The lake is located in an area rich in biodiversity, given that it is located in the Indo-Burma biodiversity hotspot. As it is a major component of the Palak Wildlife Sanctuary, it is also blessed with a lot of flora and fauna. The lake covers an area of 30 hectares and is surrounded by a thick unspoilt forest.

Mount Mawma is the third-highest mountain in Mizoram and the highest mountain within the Mara Autonomous District Council. Situated in the southeastern part of Mizoram, it is just 15 km from India’s international boundary with Myanmar. Two km from Mount Mawma lies Chakhei, a town where a well-furnished guest house is located. Mount Mawma is 6,725 feet or 2,050 m above sea level. During winter, the plains of Bangladesh as well as many parts of western Myanmar, are visible from the peak of the mountain.

This brings us to the last of the seven sister states of northeast India. While on one hand, I would love the northeast of India to be more accessible and have better rail and road infrastructure, on the other hand, over-commercialisation will most likely lead to the area losing the charm it currently has. This a question we all need to think about, what is the right amount of commercialisation that an area retains the charm and beauty it is known for and at the same time, infrastructure is built to promote tourism?

The next state we will explore will be the last state I have left to explore in India, which will be Delhi, India’s capital. So look out for it.

Travel Bucket List: India – Mizoram Part 3

Posted on December 28, 2022 by memoriesandsuch

Dampa Tiger Reserve
Located amidst deep and dense forests, the Dampa Tiger Reserve is located about 120 km southwest of Aizwal and is rich with a variety of flora and fauna. The wildlife sanctuary covers a sprawling area of over 500 sq km in the Lushai Hills at an altitude of between 800 to 1,100 m on the western side of Mizoram and touches the international boundaries with Bangladesh. It was declared a tiger reserve in 1994 and is part of Project Tiger. The name Dampa means lonely men and refers to a local narrative about a village, where a lot of the women died.

The protected area was initially established as a wildlife sanctuary in 1985 with an area of about 680 sq km, which was reduced to about 340 sq km. In 1994, it received the status of a Tiger Reserve with an area of 500 sq km and thus became part of Project Tiger. The jurisdiction of the reserve is under two ranges, namely the Teirei Range and the Phuldungsei Range. The hills around the wildlife sanctuary are known to be the bio-geographic highway that connects India to certain regions of Mayanmar and China.

The tropical forests of the Dampa Tiger Reserve are home to diverse flora and fauna consisting of forests interpolated with steep precipitous hills, deep valleys, jungle streams, ripping rivulets, and natural salt licks. The reserve is not easily accessible unlike other parks where one can ride on a four-wheeler but one has to walk through the forest if one wishes to sight animals.

Dampa is home to the sloth bear, the serow, the hoolock gibbon, the slow loris, the endangered Phayre’s leaf monkey, the India leopard and the clouded leopard to name a few. The Bengal tiger was said to be extinct here until very recently when in May 2021 a camera trap finally captured a definite picture of a Bengal tiger. The last such recording was seven years ago, and before that, tiger scat was the only proof of their existence.

The Blue Pitta which belongs to the Pittidae family and is one of the 30 species on Earth is one of the main attractions here. Studies suggest that only 6 out of these 30 species of Pitta are found in India. There are about 54 species of birds that reside in the protected area out of which only 25 species have been identified by biologists researching the fauna of the reserve. Out of these 25, two species are in the nearly threatened category, and one is on the verge of extinction.

Dampa wildlife sanctuary is famous for its Jungle Safari. A part of the Safari includes taking detours in the deep, dense forests of the reserve. During the safari, one can spot leopards and tigers. A large variety of deer and bears are a common sight around the national park. Apart from this, Dampa also houses an exquisite variety of birds. One can book safari tours in advance and also opt to stay at one of the guesthouses available nearby at Dampa Hills.

Dampa Tiger Reserveis the largest wildlife sanctuary in Mizoram, was notified in 1985 and declared a tiger reserve in 1994. It is situated in the western part of Mizoram state, on the international border with Bangladesh about 127 km from Aizawl. It covers an area of approximately 550 sq km. The tropical Forests of Dampa are home to rich flora and fauna. It consists of forest interpolated with steep precipitous hills, deep valleys, jungle streams, ripping rivulets, natural salts licks, with an altitudinal zone of 200 m to 800 m. Dampa Tiger Reserve is a part of Project Tiger funded by the Government of India

Lunglei
Situated in the south-central part of Mizoram, which means the bridge of rock got its name from a bridge-like rock found in the riverine area around Nghasih – a small tributary of the River Tlawng, the longest river in Mizoram. It is the largest town after the capital, Aizawl, and is located about 165 km south of Aizawl.

Lunglei was the capital of the South Lushai Hill Districts for 10 years from 1888, as was Aizawl for the North Hill Districts. The two were united in 1898. Until India’s partition, Lunglei had direct access to Chittagong, a big city in what is today Bangladesh which made Lunglei the commercial and educational centre. The first Jeepable road to Lunglei was made only in the 1950s.

Lunglei is famous for its scenic beauty and natural setting and is an ideal offbeat destination for those who love natural beauty and adventure activities bundled into one. Trekking, bird watching and camping are among the popular activities opted for by tourists visiting Lunglei. Lunglei is a biodiverse region, home to the Thorangtlang Wildlife Sanctuary and the Saza Wildlife Sanctuary. While the Saza Wildlife Sanctuary is famous for hosting migratory and endemic bird species, the Thorangtlang Wildlife Sanctuary is home to several animal species such as leopards, tigers, porcupines and leaf monkeys among others. Visiting the Lunglei Rock Bridge at the Nghasih stream is another popular activity while here.

On a rocky portion on the southern edge of Tawikhawthlir hill near Mualcheng village, about 65 km south of Lunglei, there are three figurines of persons in meditational poses which the local people call Lung Milem or the Stone Figures. It is not known who created them and it remains a mystery to date as no other relics of Buddhism are found elsewhere in the state.

Ui Lung is a monolith famous for its remarkably intricate carvings. It was erected in the whereabouts of 1800 by a certain Chinzah chieftain and his citizens in an expression of their longing for their fellow clansmen who perished in a severe famine. Their former village called Dawn is now in the Myanmar Republic. The stone features intricate carvings of animal heads, gongs, and human figures with spears and other weapons. It is a landmark in the historical wealth of the state. One may also visit Chhura leh Naa Vawk, a monolith with carvings portraying Mizo historical stories close to Ui Lung.

The District Museum at Lunglei is well-known as a storehouse of the ethnic culture and traditions of the state. There are exhibits of armour, jewellery, utensils, paintings, and other native art.

Lying about 84 km northeast of Lunglei, Khawnglung is a mountain situated near Pangzawl and a village of the same name used to be located on the ridge and was the scene of one of the bloodiest massacres during the days of internecine feuds between the Sailo chiefs in the middle of the nineteenth century. Intertwined with this event is the tragic love story of Chalkunga and Thanghniangi, a beautiful maiden who happened to be one of the many female captives taken by the raiders. Chalkunga later rescued her in a daring lone foray, only to lose her on the way home in the flooding Tiau river which swept her away from his grasp while they were attempting to cross it. With sheer cliffs on all sides, the mountain has always been a natural shelter for man and animals for ages. Declared a wildlife sanctuary in 2000, Khawnglung covers an area of 35 sq km and is rich in flora and fauna, particularly primates and birds. It however requires trekking for about 10 km to reach the sanctuary. The best time to visit is between October and March.

Champhai
A bustling commercial town at the Indo – Myanmar border, Champhai is a beautiful place and a storehouse of ancient relics, monuments, legends and folklore. Located about 186 km east of Aizwal, Champhai is also considered the fast-emerging fruit bowl of Mizoram. Well-tended vineyards, passion fruit and the recently introduced kiwi fruit plantations in the surrounding hill slopes provide a kaleidoscope of colours. Champhai is believed to be the entry point and the settlement of the first Mizo migrants to India. At the base of the town, towards the Myanmar border is the Champhai Valley. Surrounded by undulating hills, is a wide expanse of rice fields, popularly known as the rice bowl of Mizoram. Because of Champhai’s strategically important location, it is the main business corridor for India and Myanmar in the area.

Champhai was the headquarters of Lalbura Sailo, the son of Vanhnuailiana, a Mizo Chief against whom the British Expedition of 1871–72 was directed. It was accorded the status of a fort during British colonial rule. The Champhai Valley was once a lake and was gradually silted to obliterate the lake. The soil of the plain was still uncultivated during the Lushai Expedition of 1872. Irrigated rice cultivation started in Champhai in 1898 encouraged by the British colonial authorities to supply rice to their soldiers and labourers.

Champhai has several tourist attractions mostly including natural settings, including Kungawrhi Puk, a cave, the river Tiau Lui and the Rih Dil lake. Adventure enthusiasts can indulge in some trekking at the Thasiama Seno Neihna which is about 83 km south of Champhai.

Hla Kungpui Mual is a monument to commemorate Mizo poets, writers, and composers. It was set up in 1986 at the southern edge of the Khawbung Village in the Champhai district. Here, the monuments of Mizo laureate poets and writers are erected at intervals of 10 years. There is a Mizo Poets Square Archive and Library within the compound where the belongings of the poets are preserved. Currently, a total of 36 monuments call the Poet’s Square home.

Once upon a time, on the legendary Lianchhiari Lunglen Tlang cliff, the love-smitten Lianchhiari used to look out for her lover, Chawngfiang, who had migrated to a distant village. With its idyllic view, this perilously protruding cliff has it has found a natural home in a plethora of romantic lore. It lies South of Champhai on the way to Khawbung.

Located to the northeast of Champhai, Mt. Lengteng and its surroundings have been declared a wildlife sanctuary. The second-highest mountain in the region is filled with broad leaf and tropical evergreen forests, and sheer rocky cliffs. It is home to the endangered state bird, Vavu or Mrs Hume’s Pheasant and hornbills and endangered mammals like the slow loris, the leopard, the leopard cat, the serow, the goral and the Asiatic black bear. The sanctuary boasts orchids of various hues and beautiful flowering trees like rhododendrons and cherries. The Lengteng Wildlife Sanctuary is very close to the Murlen National Park which is spread over an area of 100 sq km with sub-tropical evergreen forests.

The Rih Lake is the largest in Mizoram and is often contested to be situated in Myanmar. It is a beautiful heart-shaped lake, believed to be the passage of souls to their eternal abode and is 14 miles from Champhai in Mizoram and 63 miles from Falam, Myanmar. Because it lies in a sensitive area, it cannot be visited without prior permission from the Deputy Commissioner’s Office.

Travel Bucket List: India – Mizoram Part 2

Posted on December 23, 2022 by memoriesandsuch

Reiek
A mountain and tourist spot, Reiek is located about 29 km southwest of Aizawl at an elevation of 1,465 m. Overlooking Aizawl and offering a view of the surrounding valleys and hills, on a clear day, the plains of Bangladesh can be seen from the top of the hill. Reiek Hill is surrounded by thick lush green temperate trees and bushes. The best time to visit Reiek is in April. Apart from sightseeing, the hill is also a haven for birdwatchers. While climbing up the hill one will come across nests and chirping of the native birds including the Peregrine Falcon which is known to make nests at the rocky edges.

Reik also has a Heritage Village which is a typical Mizo village consisting of the distinctive traditional huts of the different Mizo sub-tribes, a Mizo chieftain’s house, a bachelor’s dormitory and of widows has been created and maintained by the Tourism Department. There is also a cafeteria and a resort providing decent food and accommodation.

Reiek is also the venue for the annual Anthurium festival which takes place each year in September. The Anthurium Festival is a festival promoting the Anthurium grown in Mizoram and the rich Mizo customs and traditions at Reiek Tlang. The festival is organised by the Tourism and the Horticulture Department and has the dual purpose of promoting the cultivation and marketing of the enthralling flower and attracting more tourists to the state and showcasing the rich and rhythmic cultural dances and games of Mizoram as well as fashion shows which are also a regular feature of the festival.

Hmuifang
One of Mizoram’s beautiful destinations, Hmuifang or Hmuifang Tlang is a hill station with a lot to offer. Located 50 km from Aizawl at an elevation of 1619 m, Hmuifang is a hill town at the heart of the state and is known for its adventure and wildlife-related activities. A land of virginal green forests and slopes, Hmuifang is also famous for the Thalfavang Kut, a festival that gives one a peek into the Mizo culture by showcasing various dances such as the Cheraw, the Sawlakai, the Siktuithiang lam and the Chheihlam

The Hmuifang Tourist Resort built on the former land of the erstwhile Mizo chief is located at the scenic peak of the mountain and is maintained by the State Government. The resort has comfortable accommodations offering 6 double rooms and a cafeteria. The patches of grasslands on the peak are also ideal for picnics and outdoor camping. The resort is also the venue of the annual Anthurium Festival and Thalfavang Kut. From here, one can visit the Mizo villages situated on the hillsides, namely Hmuifang village, Sumsuih village, Lamchhip village and Chamring village, to see typical Mizo rural life. The mountain also has beautiful cliffs and offers great views of the surrounding hills with the forests abounding with varieties of flora including rare orchids and wildlife, especially avifauna.

Winters are the best time to visit Hmuifang because of the misty hills and the chilly air but it can be visited any time of the year with temperate temperatures.

Kolasib
A quaint town away from the commercialised cities, Kolasib is one of the newer districts in Mizoram and lies in the northern part about 78 km north of Aizwal. In the absence of any written or any other form of authentic records, as is the case of many places in Mizoram, nothing is authentically known about the ancient or medieval ages of the history of the place. Written or authentic records were kept only after the state came under the occupation of British colonial rule in the 2nd half of the nineteenth century. It is said that a chief named Kawla was ruling the village now known as Kolasib and so the village was referred to as the Kawla Chief Village which then became Kolasib during British rule and the name stuck.

Kolasib which is part of the Aizwal Mountainous Region of the Eastern Hill Zones has an average literacy rate of 93.50%, higher than the national average of 74.04%. November to March is the best time to visit Kolasib and the climate is quite temperate and not extreme.

The River Tlawng is Kolasib’s best attraction with its beautiful river banks and adjoining forests serving as a countryside getaway. Close to Tamdil Lake, the river is considered to be Mizoram’s longest river and is spread across 185 km and is also known as Katakha or Dhaleswari in the local dialect. There is leisure boating available which can be done by requesting locals who would be willing to ferry around tourists.

Tamdil or Tam Lake
The largest lake in the state of Mizoram, Tamdil or Tam Lake is a man-made lake developed as an important pisciculture centre and a holiday resort by the state government. The name Tamdil which translates to Lake of Mustard is located about 6 km from Saitual village and 87 km east of Aizwal and is a local favourite. The lake is tucked between evergreen thick forests and are home to wide species of trees, plants and animals as well as has a magnificent landscape, clear, blue waters and a serene environment. A new species of frog called Leptolalax tamdil was described from this lake in 2010.

The origin and etymology of Ṭam Dil are shrouded in myth. Folklore has it that a married couple had a jhum plot in this small valley surrounded by small steep hills. The man, unfortunately, died leaving the wife to care for the crops alone. In the middle of the field was a robust mustard plant, conspicuously bigger than any other plant. One night the widow has a visitation by her husband, who informed her to take special care of the giant mustard plant as it was a harbinger of immense blessing. She did as she was told, and the plant thrived very well and grew bigger and bigger. After some time, the widow remarried but her new husband did not like her to keep anything that would remind her of her former husband and so he pulled the plant up by its roots and threw it away. Out of the hole left in the ground, water flowed out immediately and filled the valley to become a large and beautiful lake. Hence the name of Ṭam Dil, for the Lake of the Mustard.

The place is a local favourite for relaxation and allows one to be away from the crowd, in the lap of nature. One can also boat in the lake, walk around its shores or just spread a carpet, lie down and read a book.

Mamit
Emerging from the regrouping of villages, Mamit lies about 88 km northwest of Aizwal at an average elevation of 718 m. The Mamit District was etched out from the erstwhile Aizawl District in 1998. The dominant tribe within the district is Mizo followed by Chakma and Reang. Mamit is famous for the production of oranges and is known as the Orange Garden of Mizoram. The fourth largest district in Mizoram, Mamit is known for its exquisite scenic locales. The Dampa Tiger Reserve is a popular tourist attraction as is the longest cave network of Mizoram in Pukzing.

Saitlaw is a small town situated around 11 km away to the west of Mamit, in the northeastern part of the state and is surrounded by the Rengdil village to the west and the Bualpui village to the north. West Phaileng is a village situated a few km away from Mamit at an altitude of around 1,290 feet above sea level. The Dampa Sanctuary is in very close proximity to this town which is flanked by dense forest and teak plantations. Kanghmun is a village in the southeastern part of Mamit district at a height of 2,841 feet above sea level. It is known for its cultural values and traditions of the Mamit district. Home to the biggest cave in the state, the 25 m wide Pukzing Cave is in the village of Pukzing at a distance of 12 km north of one of the most famous villages in Mamit, Phuldungsei. Lungkulh is famous for its artificial lake that boasts activities like fishing and boating. It is a brick structure that resembles a mound or a knoll and makes for a beautiful picturesque location.

Vantawng Falls
The highest waterfall in the state and the 13th highest in the country, Vantawng Waterfalls is one of the most mesmerizing waterfalls in Northeast India. One of Mizoram’s best attractions, Vantawng Falls is located about 100 km south of Aizwal and about 39 km north of Serchhip. Tucked between the verdant valleys with thick greenery around, the fall seems like a river of white milk from a distance.

Vantawng Khawhthla or Vantawng Falls is the highest and most spectacular of the waterfalls and cascades in the fast-flowing Vanva River near Thenzawl and is named after Vantawnga, who was said to be an excellent swimmer. So good a swimmer was Vantawnga that he could hover in the cascading water like a fish, but unfortunately, during one of such performances, a drifting log fell from above and killed him. The height of the fall is recorded as 324 feet and it is difficult to get close to it because of the sheer forested hillsides surrounding it, hence a viewing tower has been constructed. September to January are the best months to visit the Vantawng Falls because the weather is cold and the falls are visible flowing at their full might through the verdant Mizo Hills. The winters are cold in the Mizo mountains, so protection is required.

Serchhip
Headquarters of the Serchhip district and about 107 km south of Aizwal, Serchhip lies in the central part of Mizoram. The district has the highest literacy in India. The origin of Serchhip’s name comes from the citrus trees found on top of the first hill of the then-Serchhip village. The word meaning of Ser-chhip is ‘citrus-on-top’. In addition to the former Serchhip village, the Town Area now included New Serchhip and Chhiahtlang villages.

Serchhip is at an average elevation of 888 m and lies between the two very important rivers of Mat and Tuikum. River Tuikum is a public drinking water for Serchhip and River Mat is an irrigation water for Zawlpui, the rice bowl of Serchhip.

The first settlement within the Serchhip area can be traced back to Lallula, a Mizo chief, who set up a settlement at Kawlri. Lallula massacred Thlânrâwn Pawi at Zopui. After this incident, afraid of revenge from Thlânrâwn, he fled towards Artahkawn to Lunglei Zobawk. And from there, he migrated towards the north and reached Serchhip Kawlri. The second settlement at Serchhip was founded by Bengkhuaia, son of Lalpuithanga, Chief of Bâwngchâwm, a great Mizo chief. From Kawlri he made a raid on Assam valley in 1871 and captured Mary Winchester, the daughter of James Winchester, which led to the First Lushai Expedition in 1872.

The district consists of many towns and villages lying around Serchhip. Thenzawl is the second biggest town after Serchhip and is one of the few flat areas with a beautiful grassy landscape. Close to Thenzawl is the spectacular Vantawng Falls.

Zoluti Hriatrengna Lung or Memory Stone is dedicated to Mary Winchester who was known as Zoluti by the Mizo people. The spot where Zoluti was handed back to British officials on 21 January 1872 is Aw-A Mual at Kawlri Tlang near Serchhip Kawnpui. Here, there is a stone erected on 5 January 1994 in memory of Zoluti, daughter of Dr Winchester, a manager in one of the Assam Tea Gardens.

Chhingpuii Thlan which means the Tomb of the Unmarried Woman is a stone erected in memory of Chhingpuii about 4 km north of Chhingchhip. This stone is named after a beautiful woman Chhingpuii who married Kaptuanga but was kidnapped and killed during the second civil war. It is after this that Kaptuanga was devastated and committed suicide.

Paragliding has become popular in Serchhip and can be practised at Chuanhnuai which lies between Serchhip and Keitum Village. It has now become so popular that a Paragliding Festival was organised attracting paragliders from other states as well. This is the only paragliding location available in Mizoram. Paragliders take off from Chuanhnuai and land in a very beautiful valley called Zawlpui leilet.

Travel Bucket List: India – Mizoram Part 1

Posted on December 19, 2022 by memoriesandsuch

Known as the Songbird of India and one of India’s easternmost states, Mizoram is the southernmost of the seven sister states, sharing borders with the Indian states of Tripura, Manipur and Assam and also international borders with Bangladesh and Myanmar.

The name of the state is derived from Mizo, the self-described name of the native inhabitants, and Ram, which in the Mizo language means land. Thus Mizoram means the land of the Mizos. A landlocked state, Mizoram is India’s fifth smallest state with the Tropic of Cancer running through the state nearly to its middle.

Like several other northeastern states of India, Mizoram was previously part of Assam until 1972, when it was carved out as a Union Territory. In 1986 the Indian Parliament adopted the 53rd amendment of the Indian Constitution, which allowed for the creation of the State of Mizoram on 20 February 1987, as India’s 23rd state. Mizoram is the 2nd least populous state in the country and covers an area of approximately 21,087 sq km, of which approximately 91% is forested.

About 95% of Mizoram’s population descends from a diverse tribal origin. Mizos first began to settle in the area in the 16th century, coming in waves of immigration from Southeast Asia. This immigration lasted through the 18th century. Mizoram has the highest concentration of tribal people in India and the people of Mizoram are protected under the Indian constitution as a Scheduled Tribe. Mizoram is one of three states in India with a Christian majority with about 87% of the population following Christianity with people belonging to various denominations, mostly Presbyterians in the north and Baptists in the south. Mizoram is a highly literate agrarian economy with about 20% of the state’s population living below the poverty line.

Because of the sensitive nature of the state, so close to international borders, Indians need an Inner Line Permit or ILP to enter the state which cost INR 170 for a 15-day permit. The process to get an extension is slightly difficult. One can also get ILP documentation done at the Lengpui Airport in Aizwal.

Mizoram is derived from two Mizo words, Mizo and Ram where Mizo refers to native inhabitants and Ram means land. There is a dispute on the term zo. According to one view, zo means a highland or hill and Mizoram means the land of the Mizo people. There is also a view that says zo may also mean a cold region and therefore, Mizo may also signify people of the cold region. As with other tribes of northeastern India, the origin of the Mizos is shrouded in mystery. The people living in the Mizo Hills were generally referred to as the Cucis or Kukis by their neighbouring ethnic groups which was also a term adopted by the British. The majority of the tribes classified as Mizo today most likely migrated to their present territories from the neighbouring countries in several waves, starting around 1500. Before the British colonial rule, the various Mizo clans lived in autonomous villages with the tribal chiefs enjoying an eminent position in the gerontocratic Mizo society. The chiefs were the absolute rulers of their respective clans’ territories, although they remained under the nominal political jurisdictions of the Rajas of Manipur, Tripura and Burma.

The Mizo Hills formally became part of British India in 1895, and practices such as head-hunting were banned in Mizoram as well as neighbouring regions. The northern and southern Mizo Hills became the Lushai Hills, with Aizawl as their headquarters by declaring the whole area as an excluded area till Indian independence. After Christian missionaries arrived, the majority of the population became Christians in the first half of the 20th century.

Post-Indian independence, the number of tribal chiefs had increased to over 200 with the educated elites campaigning against the tribal chiefdoms under the banner of the Mizo Union. As a result, the hereditary rights of the 259 chiefs were abolished under the Assam-Lushai District Act, 1954. Village courts were re-implemented in the Mizo region along with other parts of Assam.

A period of protests and armed insurgency followed in the 1960s, which resulted in the Mizo National Front or MNF seeking independence from India which failed to garner public support or participation. In an attempt to counter these insurgency threats, the Indian government bombed state areas affected by insurgency, which is the only known bombing of India on its soil on 5 March 1966. In 1971, the government agreed to convert the Mizo Hills into a Union Territory, which became Mizoram in 1972. Following the Mizoram Peace Accord of 1986 between the Government and the MNF, Mizoram became a full-fledged state of India in 1987.

Geographically, Mizoram is a land of rolling hills, valleys, rivers and lakes. As many as 21 major hill ranges or peaks of different heights run through the length and breadth of the state, with plains scattered here and there. Phawngpui Tlang also known as the Blue Mountain, situated in the southeastern part of the state, is the highest peak in Mizoram at 2,210 m or 7,250 ft. About 76% of the state is covered by forests, 8% is fallow land, 3% is barren and considered uncultivable area, while cultivable and sown area constitutes the rest. Slash-and-burn or jhum cultivation, though discouraged, remains in practice in Mizoram and affects its topography. According to the Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change, as of 2021, Mizoram has the highest forest cover as a percentage of its geographical area of any Indian state, at 84.53% forest.

Aizwal
Mizoram’s capital, Aizawl was officially established on 25 February 1890 and is the largest city in the state as well as the centre of administration, the state assembly house and the civil secretariat. Located north of the Tropic of Cancer in the northern part of Mizoram, Aizwal is situated on a ridge 1,132 m above sea level, with the Tlawng river valley to its west and the Tuirial river valley to its east.

In 1871–72, the disorderly conduct of Khalkom, a Mizo chief, compelled the British to establish an outpost that later became Aizawl village about 14 km from Sairang from where one could travel by flat-bottomed boat. In 1892-95 Aizawl became accessible from Silchar by a fair-weather road. The Indian Air Force carried out air strikes on the town during the March 1966 Mizo National Front uprising, following which the MNF withdrew to Lunglei. Until 1966, Aizawl was a large village but the regrouping of Mizo villages after the uprising made it become a larger town and then a city. Aizawl has become the centre of the Mizoram road network connecting the north and south, east and west of the state. More than 25% of the state’s population resides in Aizawl.

Primarily dominated by the Mizo Tribe, Aizawl and its surrounding areas are lush with rolling hills and abundant greenery. An Inner Line Pass or ILP is required for entry into Mizoram which is available in Guwahati, Silchar, Shillong, New Delhi, and Kolkata.

The Durtlang Hills is located in the northern part of Aizawl and is a popular attraction with viewpoints offering panoramic views of the capital city. One can drive to the destination and once there engage in a bit of light hiking and trekking. The best time to visit the Durtlang Hills would be in the morning when the sun is not as harsh as it would be during the afternoon.

Located in Kidron Valley, the Solomon Temple is a grand church constructed by the religious group Kohhran Thianghlim, as The Holy Church. The church was founded in 1984 and is one of the largest in the state. The Temple is a square site measuring 180 ft on each side with the interior measuring 120 ft. A verandah 30 ft wide is attached to the exterior of the main hall on all four sides and is called the porch of Solomon’s Temple. The main building has twelve main doors and above the porch are four pillars, each carrying seven stars of David, meant to represent the seven churches of the Book of Revelation. On each of the pillars is a picture of the Cross of Jesus Christ and the emblem of the Holy Church is embedded. Atop the porch is an idol of two Angels blowing trumpets which face the top of the pillar and flank the northern side of the pillar, which is now used as the main entrance. The temple has four towers, one on each corner with each tower topped with a crown, representing the Crown of Salvation, the Crown of Righteousness, the Crown of Life and the Crown of the Overcomer. Two intersecting horizontal ridges cross in the middle of the pitched roof such that when viewed from the air they form a cross, representing the new covenant. There is a park with the complex as well as a restaurant, an educational institute and a social service centre. The Salvation Army Temple has wonderful bell chimes and these can be heard throughout the city on quiet mornings.

A popular picnic spot, the Berawtlang Tourist Complex is located around 7 km from Aizwal and hosts multiple ceremonial functions and houses cottages as well as restaurants. Fairs are frequently conducted here, with various cultural activities, serving as a recreational centre. This place is

Located right in the centre of the city, the Mizoram State Museum displays the rich heritage of Mizoram. Along with the numerous archaeological artefacts, photographs and natural history specimens, an entire gallery here is dedicated to the Mizo tribes. An ethnographic museum with multipurpose collections on display, the museum has five galleries, namely the Textile Gallery, Ethnology, History, Anthropology, Natural History, and an Archaeology Terrace occupying four floors. The museum was established in April 1977 by the Tribal Research Institute under the Education Department. In 1989, it came under the Art and Culture department. The museum was earlier housed in a rented building but on 14 July 1990, it was moved to a new building.

Falkawn Village
Located just 18 km south of Aizwal, Falkawn Village is a model village depicting the lifestyle of the Mizo people and is frequented by tourists. A unique cultural extravaganza for first-time visitors to Mizoram. Falkawn village depicts the livelihood and culture of the Mizo people, who form the biggest tribe in the state. The Art & Culture Department of the state government has set up a Cultural Centre or Zokhua at Falkawn in 1992 which is a mini live museum where the Zawlbuk or the dormitory, the Lal In or the Chief’s House, the Pum or the Blacksmith and other typical Mizo houses are erected. There are freedom fighter memorial stones and a Taitesena commemoration stone. Entry fees are INR 20 for adults and INR 10 for children.

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

Tag Archives: Travel