Travel Bucket List: India – Jharkhand Part 3

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Jamshedpur

India’s first planned industrial city and Jharkhand’s largest and most populous city, Jamshedpur or Tatanagar lies about 126 km southeast of the capital of Ranchi and about 133 km south of Bokaro Steel City. Juxtaposed against the beautiful Dalma Hills, Jamshedpur is also known as the Steel City and is the quintessential example of the boon of industrialisation in a developing nation. Ranked India’s cleanest city in 2019, Jamshedpur was founded by one of India’s pioneering industrialists Jamsetji Nusserwanji Tata. In 1919 Lord Chelmsford renamed the city, which was originally named Sakchi, to Jamshedpur in honour of its founder. Every Founders Day on 3 March, the 225-acre Jubilee Park is decorated with brilliant lightwork for about a week.

Over three years, C. M. Weld, Dorabji Tata and Shapurji Saklatvala painstaking searched vast stretches of inhospitable terrain to find a location for a steel plant. One day they came across Sakchi which is today a business district in the city, on the densely forested stretches of the Chota Nagpur plateau, near the confluence of the Subarnarekha and Kharkai Rivers and knew this was where they would build their steel plant. In 1908, construction of the plant as well as the city officially began and the first steel ingot was rolled on 16 February 1912.

Jamsetji’s envisioned far more than a mere row of workers’ hutments and insisted upon building all the comforts and conveniences a city could provide. As a result, many areas in the city are well planned and there are public leisure places such as the Jubilee Park. In 1945, Tata Motors was set up and is now the second-largest industry in Jamshedpur, after Tata Steel which is situated in the centre of the city and occupies approximately 1/5 of the entire city area. It acts as a pivotal centre for the industries of the city of Jamshedpur with a large number of them having direct or indirect linkages with it.

Located close to the Dalma Wildlife Sanctuary about 13 km from the city centre, Dimna Lake is an artificial lake located at the foothills of the Dalma mountain range and is famous as a picnic spot with its clear water and scenic surroundings. The lake is used as a reservoir and provides for Jamshedpur’s water requirements. A gorgeous view of the sunrise coming up from behind the hills, splendid greenery and the melodious chirping of birds is what sets this artificial lake apart. The Dimna Dam is built on the River Kharkai. The Dimna Lake and the Dam are both enterprises of the TATA Steel Company which owns the lake as well as the area around it. This is open to the public and has cement flatbeds and benches conveniently stationed all over. The land near the lake is seasonally populated with forests and foliage and there are several open spaces which people enjoy. Adventure sports on the lake are a central point of attraction for most visitors with the TATA Steel Adventure Foundation, providing packages for treks and water sports activities.

Another artificial lake, the Hudco Lake is located in the TELCO Colony near a park that also houses an artificial waterfall that uses the water of the lake. The lake and park complex are located on a beautiful hillock and it provides a panoramic view of the entire city. Jayanti Sarovar is a gorgeous lake used as a recreation spot that attracts rare and exotic birds during the winter months. The lake also houses an amusement park as well as water fountains and flower beds. The confluence of the rivers Subarnekha and Domohani is surrounded by tall eucalyptus trees and verdant greenery which gives it an imposing serenity and calmness. Sunsets here are gorgeous and should not be missed.

Located on the banks of the Subarnekha River, Bhatia Park is a beautiful park with extremely wide spaces and lush greenery. Close by is the Chandi Baba Temple which can be visited during the evenings. The Sir Dorabji Tata Park was built by Tata Steel and dedicated to Russi Modi and so was previously known as Modi Park. The park boasts well-maintained gardens, brilliant water fountains and gorgeous flower beds.

Jubilee Park is a local favourite for picnics and relaxing times with family and friends. Popular amongst joggers and cyclists, it is a gigantic park, spanning about 225 acres of land in the centre of the city. Within, there is a lake, amusement park, recreation centre, fountains and a zoo. Opened to the public in 1958, on the occasion of the city’s golden jubilee, the park was originally a gift to the town from the TATA Steel Company. It was inspired by the Brindavan Gardens of Mysore and the park also has a statue of Mr Tata and is known as the Mughal Gardens of Jamshedpur. Jubilee Lake is a beautiful lake surrounded by a laser light auditorium and a zoo, all of which are managed by Tata Steel. The lake facilitates boating and fishing and is a popular tourist spot. One of the biggest attractions in the park is the Tata Steel Zoological Park which has attractions like a butterfly park, boating, a nature trail, a safari park, a bat island, a nature education centre and a photo gallery. There is also a laser and fountain show with music that takes place every evening with four shows starting from 6:30 pm onwards. The best time to visit the park is early in the morning or after 6 pm to view the fountain show. Jubilee Park is open from 7 am to 7 pm and the zoo is open from 9 am to 5 pm and closed on Mondays. The fountain shows are at 6:30 pm, 7:30 pm, 8:30 pm and 9:30 pm. Entrance to the park is free while the zoo will incur an entry fee of INR 30 for adults and INR 20 for children. For the amusement park, it is INR 90 per person while the fountain and laser show will incur a ticket fee of INR 35.

Famous for its forest tourism, the Dalma Wildlife Sanctuary is locally known for its wild resident elephants. Dalma Haathi or the Elephants of Dalma is a known and quite fearful term in the Jamshedpur-Puruliya region. Established in 1975 and inaugurated by Sanjay Gandhi, the Dalma forest is home to a horde of animals, birds and tree species as well. Overlooking the Subarnarekha River, the Dalma hills nestle the dense green forests. Parts of this forest got shunted when the steel plant was established near the Kharkai-Subarnarekha confluence. Visitors can also drive through the forest and spend a night at the rest houses and bamboo huts offered by the forest department. Dalma Wildlife Sanctuary offers an excellent bird watching experience and a spectacular view from atop the Dalma peak which also has a couple of temples one can visit. Occupying an area of 193 sq km, the forest consists of dry mixed deciduous along with dry peninsular sal and is home to a many tall wild species of trees like sal, gamhar, mahua, semgal and some shorter ones like Jamun, Dhaura, Kendu as well. Mostly native to India, these trees make up for a good portion of east India’s oxygen supply. The forest’s fauna is equally diverse. Other than the tuskers for which it is famous, one can also spot barking deer, porcupines, wild boars, giant squirrels, mongooses and sloth bears. Leopards are said to be present but hard to have a glimpse of.

One can pay a small visit to the small open-air shrine of Dalma Mai or the Goddess of the forest. At the top of the Dalma Mountain are the temples of Lord Shiva and Lord Hanuman. An experienced guide can show the colonial remains amidst the forests. Makulakocha is a forest check post with a museum-cum-interpretation centre and a deer enclosure and is the entrance to the sanctuary. It also has a rest house as well as bamboo huts for lodging with elephants belonging to the forest department kept and fed here. The sanctuary is open from 6 am and 4 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 5. Cars and jeeps need to pay INR 150 as an entry fee and photography charges ate INR 80 per camera per day while videography will set one back by INR 500 per camera per day.

Located at a height of 500 m near the Kharangajar Market, the Bhuvaneshwari Temple is popularly known as the TELCO Bhuvaneshwari Temple. Enshrined by Ma Bhuvaneshwari, the temple also has idols of other deities including Lord Shiva and Lord Krishna. Because of its elevation, it offers a panoramic cityscape view. The Golpahari Temple is located on the outskirts of Jamshedpur city on a hilltop and is dedicated to Pahari Ma or the Goddess of the Mountains. The temple can be reached through a flight of 100 steps and offers a mesmerising view of the city below. The Rankini Mandir is located in Jadugoda, about 27 km southeast of Jamshedpur. Enshrined by Kali Mata, the temple is situated on a hillock and is believed to have been established on a rock in the days gone by and witnessed human sacrifices made to Goddess Kali which was ended by the British rule.

Sakchi Masjid s a brilliant specimen of Mughal architecture built of white marble with many domes and high minarets. Supposedly, it is the largest mosque in Jamshedpur, it is visited by many pilgrims annually. St Mary’s Church is one of the oldest churches in the city and is always crowded with devotees.

Located just outside Jubilee Park, the Russi Modi Centre for Excellence houses various professional organisations. The building was designed by Hafeez Contractor and is considered to be one of the most beautiful buildings in Jamshedpur. The building was formerly designed as part of Jubilee Park and houses the archives of Tata Steel.

The Amadubi Rural Tourism Centre is a rural village and a tourist where visitors are taken around in decked bullock carts to see local tribal culture and artworks. Pyatkar paintings are the highlight of the centre and one can also witness local kirtan songs and visit traditional cottages besides experiencing adventure sports like parasailing and mountain climbing.

The Tribal Culture Centre preserves the rich culture of the Santhal, Ho, Oraon, Munda and other tribes. The centre has huge sculptures of leaders of the freedom movement and the gallery is lined with paintings and the centre has a variety of antiques and relics on display.

Netarhat

A hill station which lies about 152 west of Ranchi and about 279 km northwest of Jamshedpur, Netarhat is also referred to as the Queen of Chotanagpur. The town is famous for the Netarhat Residential School, set up in 1954. Netarhat is located in the Pat region of the Chota Nagpur Plateau. The Netarhat plateau is about 6.4 km long and 4 k broad and is covered with thick forest. Netarhat is known for its sunrises and sunsets during the summer months. Also known as the Queen of the Chotanagpur Plateau, Netarhat is the highest point of the Chotanagpur plateau.

Spread over an area of around 979 sq. km, out of which 232 sq. km is the main,  Betla National Park is spread over hilly terrain and is one of the first of the nine tiger reserves that were established in India, but today tigers are sparse. An acronym for Bison, Elephant, Tiger, Leopard and Axis, Betla has a diversified ecosystem and is home to a huge variety of wildlife. The park was set up where the first tiger census was carried out in 1932 and was set aside as a protected area under the Indian Forests Act in 1947 and declared a wildlife sanctuary in 1973 and was declared a National Park in 1986. Inside the park are two historic forts of the Chero Kings, Purana Quila and Naya Quila. The forts are now deep inside the forest, but the main sentinel of the old fort is visible high on the hill with defences in three directions and three main gates. Private jeep safaris are available at the park gate and one will also have to hire a local guide. Two elephants provide elephant safaris costing INR 400 for up to 4 people for one hour which is an experience in itself. The Core Area Division runs a tourist bus on Saturday and Sunday for local tourists which covers Palamu Quila, the Kechki Confluence, Betla Park and then returns to Daltonganj. The also features waterfalls and hot springs. Open throughout the year, wildlife sightings are highest in the hot season between May to June when the foliage is not as thick. Betla village is the only entry point to the park.

The only sanctuary in India to protect wolves, the Mahudanr Wolf Sanctuary is located in the village of Mahudanr which lies in Chechari Valley about 60 km west of Netarhat. The Chechri Valley is surrounded by the Netarhat hills to the east, the Burha hills to the west, the Aksi hills on the north, and the Champa hills on the south making it one of the uniquely gorgeous valleys of the state. Located at a height of about 1968.5 feet and spread over an area of 63.256 sq km, Mahuadanr consists of 25 protected forests that share a common border with the state of Chattishgarh. It was given the status of a sanctuary on 23rd June 1976 by the Government of Bihar and is under the administration of the Betla National Park. The sanctuary was created to conserve the endangered Indian wolf. Ravines covered by thick bushes which are favoured by the wolves in making their dens.

The Upper Ghaghri Waterfalls are located about 4 km from Netarhat, set amidst a lush green valley. The Lower Ghaghri Waterfalls are located in a dense forest and fall from a height of 32 feet, about 10 km from Netarhat. The Lodh Falls are the highest waterfall in Jharkhand and are located about 70 km from Netarhat in a Sal forest. The Sadni Falls are located 35 km from Netarhat. The Suga Bandh Falls are situated about 70 km from Netarhat and is a local favourite picnic spot. Located about 10 km from Netarhat, Magnolia Point is known for its sunsets and is a popular viewing point. Sunrise Point at Netarhat is known for its sunrises. The Koel River View Point is located about 3 km from Netarhat. The Netarhat Residential School is a boarding school and one of the few modern Gurukuls left in India. Netarhat’s pine forests are ideal walking spots, slightly pleasanter than the town and used to be part of the governor’s permanent summer station.

Travel Bucket List: India – Jharkhand Part 2

Hazaribagh

Located about 104 km north of Ranchi, Hazaribagh is considered a health resort and is also popular for the Hazaribagh Wildlife Sanctuary which lies about 17 km from the city. Located in the Chhota Nagpur plateau about 2,000 m above sea level on the middle plateau, Hazaribagh is a beautiful place with dense forests and natural formations including rock formations and lakes.

Hazaribagh’s name is derived from two Persian words: Hazar meaning one thousand and bagh meaning garden and the town’s name means a city of a thousand gardens. In ancient times the district was covered with inaccessible forests inhabited by tribes that remained independent. The entire territory of Chhotanagpur, now known as Jharkhand was presumably beyond the pale of outside influence in ancient India. Throughout the Turko-Afghan period, up to 1526, the area remained virtually free from external influence and it was only with the accession of Emperor Akbar to the throne of Delhi in 1557 that Muslim influence penetrated Jharkhand, then known to the Mughals as Kokrah. After the death of Emperor Akbar in 1605, the area presumably regained its independence which necessitated an expedition in 1616 by Ibrahim Khan Fateh Jang, the Governor of Bihar and brother of Queen Noorjehan who defeated and captured Durjan Sal, the 46th Raja of Chotanagpur. In 1632, Chotanagpur was given as an endowment to the Governor at Patna for an annual payment of Rs.136,000 which was raised to Rs.161,000 in 1636. After the Kol uprising in 1831 the territories of Ramgarh, Kharagdiha, Kendi and Kunda became parts of the South-West Frontier Agency and were formed into a division with Hazaribagh as the administrative headquarters. In 1855-56 there was the great uprising of the Santhals against the British which was brutally suppressed. In 1912, a new province of Bihar and Orissa was split from Bengal Province and in 1936, the province was split into separate provinces of Bihar and Orissa, with the Chota Nagpur division being a part of Bihar. Bihar’s boundaries remained mostly unchanged after Indian Independence in 1947. In 2000, Jharkhand was separated from Bihar to become India’s 28th state. A small but effective Bengali community settled at Hazaribagh in the 19th century when the area was in Bengal Presidency.

The Hazaribagh National Park is one of the oldest wildlife sanctuaries in India, established in 1954 to conserve wildlife and provide a home for rare and endangered species of flora and fauna. The wildlife sanctuary’s landscape is full of steep hills, spectacular countryside, thick tropical forest and lovely meadows. Located about 19 km from Hazaribagh, the interiors of the park are very well-connected by internal roads of 111 km that allow animals to go about their daily business. Spread over an area of 184 sq km at an altitude of 615 m, the park did not get much tourist attention until 2007 when the deputy CM of the state announced the construction of a state-of-the-art elephant project that aimed at attracting more tourists.

The park is abode to a variety of rare and endangered flora and fauna including animals like the Sambar, Nilgai, Bison, Spotted deer, Cheetah, Wild Boar and Kakkar which can be easily seen at dawn and dusk, enjoying the water holes. If one is lucky, they might even see a sloth or a panther. At one time, Hazaribagh Wildlife sanctuary was famous for its enormous population of tigers, but now one would be lucky to catch a glimpse. The tiger population is fast dwindling and has been a matter of concern. According to the 1991 census, there were only 14 tigers in the park. The natural vegetation consists primarily of grass meadows and thick tropical forests with the entire area covered with Sal and other trees during the spring season. Plenty of water resources in small form rivers and artificial lakes also adorn the sanctuary. Many watchtowers facilitate wildlife watching built near water holes, that provide breathtaking top views. One can also take a jeep safari to explore the sanctuary which has a tribal hamlet inside.  The safari can be done using a private vehicle or by hiring a jeep. For private vehicles, there is a nominal fee of INR 100. The park is open between 6 am and 8 pm and Indians need to pay an entry fee of INR 50 while foreigners will pay INR 100.

Canary Hills is an ideal escape from bustling city life. As one climbs up the hill walking past a dense forest filled with lush greenery and a lake they will reach a spot that has a magnificent view of the eastern Hazaribagh. One can also drive to the hill to a rest house and view the western part of Hazaribagh which is the main town. Hazaribagh Jheel or Lake is a famous local picnic spot divided into four parts with the third lake having the best views of sunrise and sunset. Just 6 km from Hazaribagh in the village of Kahapriama, is a famous temple dedicated to Lord Narsimha, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and is known as Narsimhasthan. The beautiful temple also has a Shivalingam.

Bokaro Steel City

119 km northeast of Ranchi and about 130 km southeast of Hazaribagh, Bokaro is officially known as Bokaro Steel City is the fourth largest and most populous city in the state. One of India’s planned cities, it is located on the banks of the Garga River and the fringes of the Bokaro River, surrounded by the hill ranges in the Giridih and Ramgarh districts.

Marafari is the oldest settlement in Bokaro which was just a village during the time of the Mughals and various sultanates. India’s first Global Active City or GAC, Bokaro has emerged as a commercial, industrial, healthcare, sports, educational, and startup hub. The city is filled with lakes, greenery, and beautiful parks and has a significant Bengali influence because it is close to the state’s border with West Bengal.

Established in the 1980s, the Jawaharlal Nehru Biological Park became famous for its rare collection of big cats such as the white tigers and the Asiatic lions but due to a lack of adequate infrastructure, some of them had to be moved to zoos in other parts of the world. The zoo houses many species of animals and plants and also has a toy train and a boating facility in its artificial lake. One giant artificial lake and three artificial islands along with some amazing greenery are what constitute the City Park of Bokaro which also has many boating activities. The River Garga is a tributary of the Damodar River that flows on the southern parts of the city of Bokaro. A dam was constructed on it in the 1950s to make it the first such river valley project in the country. Known as the Garga Dam, power is generated from the dam, and the water is used for Bokaro’s use.

Named after the 23rd Tirthankara of the Jains, Parasnath is a popular Jain pilgrimage centre. It is believed that 20 out of 24 Teerthankars have attained their deliverance here on the highest peak in this range, Sammet Sikhar. There are as many as 20 temples here, some of which were built more than 2000 years ago. The Rajrappa temple on the confluence of the Damodar and Bhairavi rivers is influenced by the Tantric style of architecture and is a major pilgrimage site.

India’s largest iron and steel complex, Bokaro Steel Plant is regarded as the country’s first Swadeshi Steel Plant with maximum investment going into materials, equipment and R & D. The plant was conceived as to grant the country freedom from dependency on foreign sources to induce a measure of confidence and self-reliance. The plant was the country’s first indigenous project of its kind that utilised local material, manpower, and intellectual resources in all places possible. Located along the Damodar River, the plant is famous for its tours where one can witness all the processes involved in the manufacture of steel.

Travel Bucket List: India – Jharkhand Part 1

Our next state is not known in the tourism circuit but is one of India’s hidden gems. With a name meaning the land of forests, Jharkhand is bordered by West Bengal to the east, Chhattisgarh to the west, Uttar Pradesh to the northwest, Bihar to the north and Odisha to the south. It was created in 2000 from the territory that had previously been part of the state of Bihar. The 15th largest state by area and the 14th largest by population, Jharkhand’s capital is the city of Ranchi and Dumka the sub-capital. Hindi is the state’s official language and the state is known for its waterfalls, hills and holy places. Much of Jharkhand lies on the Chota Nagpur Plateau with many rivers passing through the plateau.

Jharkhand suffers from what is sometimes termed a resource curse: it accounts for more than 40% of the mineral resources of India, but 39.1% of its population is below the poverty line and 19.6% of children under five years of age are malnourished. The state is primarily rural, with about 24% of its population living in cities, but today is amongst the leading states in terms of economic growth with the state’s GDP growth rate in 2017–18 at 10.22%.

The region has been inhabited since the Mesolithic-Chalcolithic period. During the 2nd millennium BC, the use of copper tools spread in the Chota Nagpur Plateau and these are known as the Copper Hoard Culture. In the Kabra-Kala mound at the confluence of the Son and North Koel rivers in the Palamu district, various antiquities and art objects have been found which are from the Neolithic to the medieval period and the pot-sherds of redware, black and redware, blackware, black slipped ware and NBP ware that are from the Chalcolithic to the late medieval period. During the age of the Mahajanpadas around 500 BC, Jharkhand was a part of the Magadha and Anga empires while in the Mauryan period, this region was ruled by several states, which were collectively known as the Atavika or forest states who accepted the suzerainty of the Maurya empire during Emperor Ashoka’s reign. In the 7th century, the Chinese traveller Xuanzang passed through the region and described the kingdom as Karnasuvarna with Shashanka as its ruler. The region was invaded during the reign of Emperor Akbar in 1574.

During the 18th century, the region became part of the East India Company. The Princely states in Chota Nagpur Plateau, came within the sphere of influence of the Maratha Empire, but they became tributary states of the British East India Company as a result of the Anglo-Maratha Wars known as Chota Nagpur Tributary States. After the Indian Rebellion of 1857, the rule of the British East India Company was transferred to the Crown in the person of Queen Victoria, who, in 1876, was proclaimed Empress of India.

After Indian independence in 1947, the rulers of the states chose to accede to the Dominion of India. Changbhakar, Jashpur, Koriya, Surguja and Udaipur later became part of Madhya Pradesh state, but Gangpur and Bonai became part of Orissa state and Kharsawan and Saraikela part of Bihar state. In 1912, the state of Jharkhand was first proposed by a student of St.Columba’s College in Hazaribagh. In 1955, the Jharkhand Party led by Jaipal Singh Munda submitted memorandum to States Reorganization Commission for a separate Jharkhand state, but it was rejected because there were many languages and no link language in the region, the tribals were not in majority and there would be an adverse effect on the economy after separation from Bihar. In 1998, when the separate state movement was falling apart, the Union government decided to send the bill concerning the formation of the Jharkhand state to the Bihar Legislative Assembly to which Bihar’s ex-chief Minister, Lalu Prasad Yadav said that the state would be divided over his dead body. The voting on Jharkhand Act was to be done on 21 September 1998 in Bihar legislation which was finally cleared during the monsoon session of the Parliament that year paving the way for the creation of a separate Jharkhand state comprising the Chota Nagpur Division and the Santhal Pargana Division of South Bihar.

Jharkhand has been at the centre of the Naxalite-Maoist insurgency. Despite having a presence in almost 7.80% of India’s geographical area, Jharkhand is part of the Naxal Belt where the highest concentration of the group’s estimated 20,000 combatants fights. Part of this is because the state harbours an abundance of natural resources, while its people live in abject poverty and destitution with the impoverished state providing ample recruits. The state has immense mineral resources with minerals including iron ore, coal, copper ore, mica, bauxite, manganese, limestone, china clay, fire clay, graphite, kainite, chromite, asbestos, thorium, sillimanite, uranium and gold, silver and several other minerals.

Ranchi

Jharkhand’s capital Ranchi was at the centre of the Jharkhand movement, which called for a separate state for the tribal regions of South Bihar, northern Orissa, western West Bengal and the eastern area of what is present-day Chhattisgarh. The Jharkhand state was formed on 15 November 2000 by carving out the Bihar divisions of Chota Nagpur and Santhal Parganas. During the British colonial rule, Ranchi was the summer capital of Bihar, due to its cold climate during the winter season. One of the oldest cities in Jharkhand, Ranchi is today a developing economy and is also known as the city of waterfalls.

In his book The Mundas and Their Country, anthropologist Sarat Chandra Roy writes that the name of Ranchi is derived from the Mundari word aranchi or a short stick used in driving cattle. According to another local story, the name Ranchi comes from a local bird named Rici or a Black Kite which was found in the Pahari Mandir premise which is also Rici Buru or the hill of the kites, and the city originated on the foothills of Rici Buru with the construction of Bada Talab by Commissioner Thomas Wilkinson at the same site. According to a popular tale, Captain Wilkinson choose Archi an Oraon tribal village as his headquarters. Archi means a bamboo forest in the local Nagpuri dialect and the name eventually became Ranchi.

The early evidence of the use of many iron slags, pot sheds, and iron tools was found in the Chota Nagpur region around 1400. The Magadha Empire exercised indirect control over the territory, which lasted until the reign of the Ashoka. In the 4th century, the Nagvanshi king Raja Pratap Rai chose Chutia as his capital which is today a place in Ranchi. With the expansion of the Mughal Empire, the sovereign status of the Nagvanshi dynasty was technically affected, but they continued to rule and administer independently.

After the Battle of Buxar, Nagvanshi became a vassal of the East India Company which reduced the Nagvanshi rulers to Jamindars in 1817. In 1833, Captain Wilkinson established the headquarters of the South-West Frontier agency in the village of Kishunpur, which he renamed Ranchi after the hamlet located at the foot of the Hill. In 1912, Jyotirindranath Tagore, the oldest brother of the Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore, settled in Ranchi and Tagore Hill, where his house was located, has been named after him. After Independence, Ranchi saw a significant increase in its population because of increased industrial and educational institutions being set up, as well as the arrival of the post-partition refugees. Ranchi became an administrative-cum-industrial town in 1958 when Heavy Engineering Corporation was set up and over the years, Ranchi became the headquarters of the Steel Authority of India Ltd and Central Coalfields Ltd. The city remained the summer capital of Bihar till the creation of Jharkhand in 2000 when Ranchi became the capital of the new state.

Ranchi has a hilly topography and the dense tropical forests combine to produce a relatively moderate climate compared to the rest of the state. However, due to the uncontrolled deforestation and development of the city, the average temperature has increased.

Located near the Taimara village, Dasham Falls, also known as Dassam Falls are spectacular waterfalls which is a natural cascade across the Kanchi River, a tributary of the Subarnarekha River. Cascading down a height of 144 ft, the waterfall boasts serenity, peace and calm with the surrounding area infused in greenery, making it a great picnic spot. The word Dasham or Dassam is a derivative of the Mundari language word Da Song which means the process of pouring water where Da means water and song means pouring. Over the years it became known as called Dasham or Dassam. The waterfall, also known as a Knick Point has been developed over the years due to the break in the rocky slopes in a longitudinal manner because of which there are very strong currents and an uneven ground, which makes swimming and even entering the water dangerous. To reach the falls, one has to climb a flight of stairs. The best time to visit the falls is between July and March, especially during the monsoons.

Plunging from a height of about 45 meters, the Johna Falls is surrounded by a canopy of dense trees and thick shrubbery. The waters of the Rivers Ganga and Raru come together to form the roaring falls. Also known as the Gautamdhara Falls because of a Buddhist shrine that lies in proximity to the falls, the falls are situated at the edge of the Ranchi plateau and is an example of a hanging valley falls. The Gunga River hangs over its master stream, the Raru River and forms the falls. One has to descend 722 steps to admire the surroundings with the water in the falls dropping from a height of 43 m. The Johna Falls are also an example of a nick point which is caused by rejuvenation and represents breaks in slopes in the longitudinal profile of a river caused by rejuvenation which allows water to fall vertically giving rise to a waterfall. There is a tourist rest house which encloses a Buddhist shrine with a deity of Lord Gautama Buddha. A temple and an ashram dedicated to Lord Buddha were built atop Gautam Pahar by the sons of Raja Baldevdas Birla and there is a fair organised in Jonha every Tuesday and Saturday.

The Panch Gagh Falls which means five falls as panch means five is a stunning tourist destination that has five waterfalls cascading through tall and steep hills near the village of Khunti. The foot of the waterfalls has a very calm and serene atmosphere and is an ideal location for picnics and weekend getaways. Situated in Latehar, around 195 km from Ranchi, the Lodh Falls is the highest waterfall in the state and the 21st highest in the country. The 143 metres waterfalls drop in several tiers over the River Burha and are nestled in the dense woods of the Chota Nagpur Plateau.

The Murga Mahadev waterfalls are situated 143 km from Ranchi, within the premises of a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, which is a revered place of worship and is especially crowded with pilgrims in the winter season in addition to regular tourists visiting the place. The Sita Falls is a slightly unknown waterfall situated on the outskirts of Ranchi. Originating from the River Kanchi and dropping from a height of almost 44 m amidst gorgeous landscapes and dense woods, the falls are a popular trekking spot for adventure enthusiasts.

The River Subarnekha while flowing through Ranchi forms a lot of waterfalls, but the most beautiful of them is the Hudru Falls. Falling from a height of 320 feet, the falls create a spectacular landscape and is extremely popular with tourists. Bathing at the foot of the waterfall can be a very refreshing experience and is highly recommended. The different formations of rock due to the erosion by the constantly falling water have added to the beauty of the place. The falls at one of the edges of the Ranchi plateau is one of the several scarp falls in the region which takes on a formidable form during the rainy season, but in the dry season becomes a picnic spot.

Hirni Falls lies about 60 km from Ranchi amidst the thick foliages of a dense forest and from the head of the falls, one can enjoy a panoramic view of the city. Located about 68 km from Ranchi lie the Rajrappa Falls. The Bhairavi or Bhera river falls from a height and joins the Damodar River with the silver cascading water a popular attraction in the region.

Complete with waterfalls, sculptures, art and scenic beauty, the Rock Garden is the perfect place to spend a weekend. The major attraction here is an iron footbridge that stands on only two poles. The garden is situated on a hillock by the Kanke Dam and is surrounded by lush environs, where one can relax while enjoying a stunning view of the city. Decked with greenery and flowers, Nakshatra Van has a beautiful fountain that lies in the centre of the garden and looks especially mesmerising in the evenings. Situated in front of Raj Bhawan the garden is an urban park and is very popular. The park is closed on Mondays and on other days the park is open between 9:30 am and 6:30 pm. The Biodiversity Park is a local picnic favourite and strives to preserve and protect medicinal plants and herbs.

The Birsa Zoological Park is also known as the Birsa Jaivik Udyan and houses a wide variety of wild animals. It is located on the Ranchi-Patna National Highway near Ormanjhi and is a must-visit for all wildlife enthusiasts. As part of the animal adoption program, one can also adopt an animal and contribute to wildlife preservation. Established in 1994 on the banks of the Getalsud Dam, the park has two divisions, the zoological section which is spread over 83 hectares and the botanical section spread over 21 hectares. The zoo also offers battery-operated vehicles and a boating facility in addition to other facilities.

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Lying about 33 km north of Ranchi’s city limits. Patratu Valley is a local weekend getaway. With the sparkling waters of the Patratu Dam on one side and lush green trees on the other, driving along the ghats of the valley is truly an experience. However, it is advised not to venture into these roads after dark because of the rampant Naxalite influence in the area. The magnificent Patratu Dam is the highlight of the Patratu Valley which stores the waters of the Nalkari River. The underground tunnel connected two villages near Patratu: Labga and Hariharpur, which could be traversed, but today, due to security reasons, has been shut down. There is also boating in the dam which is a must-do at the valley. The best time to visit is during winters when the climate is at its best.

Situated in Morabadi, Tagore Hill is also known as Morabadi Hill and has been associated with the brother of the poet and Nobel Laureate Rabindranath Tagore, Jyotidranath Tagore. Engulfed in greenery and boasting gorgeous panoramic vistas, the vantage point stands at a height of 300 feet and is an ideal picnic spot. One can reach the top by climbing a flight of 200 – 250 stairs and enjoy stunning views of the town below. At the foot of the hill is also situated the Ramakrishna Ashram and a centre of Divyayan and the Agararian Vocational Institute. It is believed that the younger brother of Rabindranath Tagore, Jyotindranath Tagore was very upset after the untimely death of his young wife who committed suicide. He procured the land here and spent most of his time uphill in seclusion, solitude and quietude. He built two structures at the top – Bramha Sthal and Shanti Dham, the latter of which was also used as his residence.

Located at the base of the Ranchi Hill, the Ranchi Lake was constructed in 1842 by a British Colonel named Onsely. Centrally located, the lake is well maintained and has boating facilities. There is also a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva at the top of the hill from where one can get panoramic views of the city.

Perched on a hilltop, the Jagannath Temple dates back to 1691 and is a smaller replica of the Jagannath Temple in Puri. The temple is decked with intricate carvings and a unique blend of coloured stones and the Rath Yatra festival sees a footfall of thousands of tourists each year. The temple was built by King of Barkagarh Jagannathpur Thakur Ani Nath Shahdeo and is located about 10 km from the main town. To reach the top visitors can climb the stairs or take the vehicle route. The view of the city from the top is breathtaking. In August 1990, the temple collapsed, but with the help of the Bihar government, it has been fully restored today.

The Angrabadi Temple Complex is situated in Khunti, a small village near Ranchi and houses the idols of Lord Ganesh, Lord Shiva, Lord Ram and his consort, Goddess Sita and Lord Hanuman. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Pahari Mandir sits at an altitude of 2140 feet and offers a bird’s eye view of the city. One has to climb about 300 steps to reach the temple, but the beauty of the temple and the stunning view is worth it. The story of the hill temple is very interesting. This temple of Lord Shiva situated on the mountain was in the possession of the British before India’s independence and they used to hang freedom fighters here. Since India’s independence, the national flag is also hoisted on the occasion of Independence Day and Republic Day along with religious flags of the temple and this is the first temple in the country where the tricolour is hoisted. There is a stone here on which a message was written on the eve of India’s independence on the midnight of 15 August 1947.

The Sun Temple has captivating architecture in the shape of a giant vehicle with 18 wheels driven by seven horses. The temple complex also has a holy pond which is highly revered. The temple is located amidst lush greenery and is worth a visit.

Set right next to the Rock Garden, the Kanke Dam is the perfect getaway. The dam has a boating facility which is also very popular. Getalsud Dam is an artificial reservoir situated in Ormanjhi, and was constructed across the Subarnarekha River and was opened in 1971. It is a popular picnic spot and supports a small-scale fishing industry. Located on the north-eastern edge of the Chota Nagpur Plateau, the dam meets the drinking water demands of Ranchi as well as the industrial requirements of the area.

The Ranchi Science Centre is the first science centre in the state and comprises a two-storied building that houses three permanent thematic galleries and was inaugurated on 29 November 2010. The State Museum Hotwar is a cultural museum whose original name was Ranchi Museum. It was established on the premises of the Tribal Research Institute in 1974 and moved to the new site in Hotwar in 2009. Built to showcase the cultural heritage of Jharkhand, the museum has ten galleries and contains paintings by artists from across the country as well as a well-equipped library that can house up to 300 people.

Singapore to Mumbai: A Photographic Journey

Most of our trips to Mumbai have been evening flights and so there was nothing to see outside. We’ve done day flights regionally, but I can only remember two other daytime flights to Mumbai in the last 20 odd years. Both times, we flew Singapore Airlines and both flights were in wide-bodied planes, perhaps an Airbus. Earlier this year, when I flew to India, I flew Vistara, the airline that was created due to a partnership between Singapore Airlines and the Indian conglomerate, the Tata Group. Vistara uses a smaller aircraft which is single aisle and so probably flies much lower in the air compared to Singapore Airlines flights. So this time around, I enjoyed the flight because I could see the ground while flying. Up until we entered the Bay of Bengal, I enjoyed the scenery below and took many photographs of the journey. This photographic essay is the result of that trip. My apologies if I shared some photos previously.

This scene greeted me almost as soon as the plane took off from Singapore’s Changi airport. You can see the buildings of Changi in the left and the National Service Resort & Country Club in the front and centre.

A minute later, this is one of Singapore’s offshore islands, maybe Pulau Ubin or Pulau Tekong.

About 30 minutes into the flight, we were flying over the Malaysian peninsula, probably flying over the North South expressway, on the way to the country’s capital of Kuala Lumpur.

About 45 into the flight, you can clearly see the island of Penang and the famous Penag bridge.

The next island is the island of Langkawi, which lies almost on the border between Malaysia and Thailand. We visited the island more than a decade back and have very fond memories of the place and hope to visit it again soon.

About an hour and 40 minutes into the flight, we flew over the Thai island of Krabi.

After Thailand, we veered course to fly over the Bay of Bengal and try as I much wanted to, I could not see much out of the window and the next time I saw something interesting, we were flying over Ahmednagar in my home state of Maharashtra, about 20-25 minutes before we landed in Mumbai.

This photo was taken as we approach Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus for landing into Mumbai. This is the Vashi Bridge which seperates Mumbai from Navi Mumbai or New Bombay, the planned city and part of the Mumbai Metropolitan Region (MMR). Seeing the bridge brought back so many Mumbai memories of school trips and seeing the bridge I know we are on the verge of landing into Mumbai.

We were on our descent for landing and this is taken just a couple of minutes before touchdown. This is most likely the Eastern Express Highway in Vikhroli East, a few seconds before landing in Mumbai.

And finally touchdown after flying about 5.5 hours. I was back in the city of my birth after more than two years. But now I doubt I will fly into Bombay anytime soon, but never say never!

I hope you enjoyed this photographic journey as much as I liked searching through the photos I took during the flight and remembered my journey.

In My Hands Today…

China Road: A Journey into the Future of a Rising Power – Rob Gifford

Route 312 is the Chinese Route 66. It flows three thousand miles from east to west, passing through the factory towns of the coastal areas, through the rural heart of China, then up into the Gobi Desert, where it merges with the Old Silk Road. The highway witnesses every part of the social and economic revolution that is turning China upside down.

In this utterly surprising and deeply personal book, acclaimed National Public Radio reporter Rob Gifford, a fluent Mandarin speaker, takes the dramatic journey along Route 312 from its start in the boomtown of Shanghai to its end on the border with Kazakhstan. Gifford reveals the rich mosaic of modern Chinese life in all its contradictions, as he poses the crucial questions that all of us are asking about China: Will it really be the next global superpower? Is it as solid and as powerful as it looks from the outside? And who are the ordinary Chinese people, to whom the twenty-first century is supposed to belong?

Gifford is not alone on his journey. The largest migration in human history is taking place along highways such as Route 312, as tens of millions of people leave their homes in search of work. He sees signs of the booming urban economy everywhere, but he also uncovers many of the country’s frailties, and some of the deep-seated problems that could derail China’s rise.

The whole compelling adventure is told through the cast of colorful characters Gifford meets: garrulous talk-show hosts and ambitious yuppies, impoverished peasants and tragic prostitutes, cell-phone salesmen, AIDS patients, and Tibetan monks. He rides with members of a Shanghai jeep club, hitchhikes across the Gobi desert, and sings karaoke with migrant workers at truck stops along the way.

As he recounts his travels along Route 312, Rob Gifford gives a face to what has historically, for Westerners, been a faceless country and breathes life into a nation that is so often reduced to economic statistics. Finally, he sounds a warning that all is not well in the Chinese heartlands, that serious problems lie ahead, and that the future of the West has become inextricably linked with the fate of 1.3 billion Chinese people.