No Mercy: A Journey to the Heart of the Congo – Redmond O’Hanlon
Redmond O’Hanlon has journeyed among headhunters in deepest Borneo with the poet James Fenton, and amid the most reticent, imperilled and violent tribe in the Amazon Basin with a night-club manager. This, however, is his boldest journey yet.
Accompanied by Lary Shaffer – an American friend and animal behaviorist, a man of imperfect health and brave decency – he enters the unmapped swamp-forests of the People’s Republic of the Congo, in search of a dinosaur rumored to have survived in a remote prehistoric lake.
The flora and fauna of the Congo are unrivalled, and with matchless passion O’Hanlon describes scores of rare and fascinating animals: eagles and parrots, gorillas and chimpanzees, swamp antelope and forest elephants. But as he was repeatedly warned, the night belongs to Africa, and threats both natural (cobras, crocodiles, lethal insects) and supernatural (from all-powerful sorcerers to Samale, a beast whose three-clawed hands rip you across the back) make this a saga of much fear and trembling. Omni-present too are ecological depredations, political and tribal brutality, terrible illness and unnecessary suffering among the forest pygmies, and an appalling waste of human life throughout this little-explored region.
Hajipur Hajipur is the largest city and headquarters of Vaishali district and is the 10th largest and 17th most populous city in the state as well as the second-fastest developing city, next to Patna. The city is known for cultivating bananas and is only 10 km from the state capital of Patna. The Mahatma Gandhi Setu connects Hajipur to Patna and is separated by the Ganges river. Another bridge known as the Digha Pool connects the river Gandak and Ganga and narrows the distance between Hajipur and Patna. There are plans to expand Patna to Greater Patna, by absorbing Hajipur and other surrounding towns into it.
In ancient times, Hajipur was known as Ukkacala and was the first village to come after crossing the River Ganges at Patna. The village of Hajipur gained significance, as it was the venue of one of the discourses given by Gautam Buddha who preached the Cula Gopalaka Sutta, a middle-length discourse here. The place is also of interest because a portion of Ananda’s ashes, the closest disciple of Buddha who acted as the Buddha’s attendant for twenty years and outlived him by several decades were enshrined in the town. During the British colonial rule, Hajipur was a small town in the Muzaffarpur district situated on the confluence of the Ganges and Gandak. Hajipur figures conspicuously in the history of struggles between Emperor Akbar and the rebellious Afghan Karrani rulers of Bengal. The town finds its origin from the Mahabharata period and is the place where democracy found its origin around 600 BC. The ancient Licchavi republic was established here and is the place where Mahavir took birth and Gautam Buddha delivered his last sermon and announced his Parinirvana.
The Kaun Haara Ghat is one of the main attractions of Hajipur, not so much for its current existence as much as for the ancient legend associated with it. The very famous fight between the Gaja elephant and the Graah crocodile is said to have been fought here, and the place got its name from everyone asking Kaun haara? or who lost the fight? This is one of the most significant events of Hindu mythology, related to the stories of Lord Vishnu. A pictographic depiction of this fight can be seen all over the city of Hajipur, like an emblem of the place. The Sweet Water Well or Mitha Kuwan is famous for its water quality. Because Hajipur situated on the confluence of the Ganges and Gandak, the water of the well is very sweet. From ancient times till today, many many people in Hajipur use the water from this Mitha Kuwan for drinking purposes and also use it for cooking.
Located right in the heart of Hajipur at Gandhi Ashram, the Deep Narayan Singh Museum Is named after the late Chief Minister of Bihar and was established in 1979. Among the collections here are weaponry, coins and artefacts from the Mauryan and Gupta era, both of which prospered around the then seat of power Pataliputra, now Patna. It also has blow-ups of local freedom fighters. It provides an important insight into Bihar’s past and present.
The Ramchaura Mandir is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Rama located at Rambhadra near Helabazar. Folklore says that the temple has stood here since the days of the Ramayana and Lord Rama himself blessed the place with his presence on his way to Janakpur, where his footprints are worshipped by his devotees. Ram Navami is a huge and important festival here and it is celebrated with lots of enthusiasm with a small fair also organised on the eve of the festival. Archaeological objects excavated from Ramchaura are kept at the Patna Museum.
The Bateshwar Nath Temple is the oldest in Bihar as it goes back to the Mughal era, or so says the myth. The local legend goes that the temple is a self-made and established one and it appeared magically under a thousand-year-old Banyan tree. Because of such an interesting story about its past, the local people have a lot of respect for this temple. It is, however, a quiet and spiritual place in the middle of the green stretches of pastures and will appeal to those who love to travel in the more uncommon, quaint sites. The temple has a tradition of celebrating the Vasant Panchami festival every year in February/March and a small fair is organised on the eve of Maha Shivratri for a month.
Hajipur is one of the 84 Baithaks in India. The Krishna Baithakji temple, like all other ones, is dedicated to Shri Mahaprabhuji, also known as Vallabhacharya, the founder of the Pushtimarg sect of Vaishnavism, who toured the country barefoot thrice to spread his knowledge, conduct Krishna-related seminars and discuss his path with other religious leaders. The Baithaks are the shrines which the followers of this sect visit and pay their respect. It is a spiritual and peaceful establishment to visit and take in the essence of the faith.
Located in the west of Hajipur, the Nepali Mandir is a pagoda-style temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Unlike the other Shaivite temples which are made of stones, this one is made of finely carved wood and resembles the architectural style of the Himalayan shrines. Hence it was given the name Nepali. It is a wonderful piece of structure to look at, and the confluence of traditional Hindu style and the touch of the northern mountains is worth experiencing.
The Pataleshwar Mandir, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is said to have been in existence since ancient times and Lord Shiva is believed to be enshrined here in the form of Lingam according to local folklore.
The Jami Masjid is one of the state’s oldest mosques constructed in 1587 during the Mugal rule by Makhsus Shah the brother of Said Khan, who was the governor of Bihar Sharif according to the Akbarnamah. This remarkable monument is a spectacular example of the Indo-Persian architectural style. Measuring 84.5 feet in height and 33.5 feet in width, the mosque is crowned with three domes, the central dome being larger than the others. According to some historians, Haji Iliyas was the founder of the mosque.
Nalanda An ancient Mahavihara and a revered Buddhist monastery which also served as a renowned centre of learning, in the ancient kingdom of Magadha, Nalanda was a university town which rose to legendary status due to its contribution to the emergence of India as a great power around the fourth century. Located about 95 km southeast of Patna near the city of Bihar Sharif, and was one of the greatest centres of learning in the world from the 5th to the 11th centuries and today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nalanda was initially a prosperous village by a major trade route that ran through the nearby city of Rajagriha, which is modern Rajgir which was the capital of Magadha. It is said that the Jain Tirthankara, Mahavira, spent 14 rainy seasons at Nalanda. Gautama Buddha too is said to have delivered lectures in a nearby mango grove named Pavarika and one of his two chief disciples, Shariputra, was born in the area and later attained nirvana there. This traditional association with Mahavira and Buddha tenuously dates the existence of the village to at least the 5th or 6th century BC.
At its peak, the school attracted scholars and students from near and far, with some travelling from Tibet, China, Korea, and Central Asia. The highly formalised methods of Buddhist studies helped the establishment of large teaching institutions such as Taxila, Nalanda, and Vikramashila, which are often characterised as India’s early universities. Archaeological evidence also notes contact with the Shailendra dynasty of Indonesia, one of whose kings built a monastery in the complex. Nalanda flourished under the patronage of the Gupta Empire in the 5th and 6th centuries, and later under Harsha, the emperor of Kannauj. The liberal cultural traditions inherited from the Gupta age resulted in a period of growth and prosperity until the 9th century. The subsequent centuries were a time of gradual decline, a period during which the tantric developments of Buddhism became most pronounced in eastern India under the Pala Empire. Much of the current knowledge of Nalanda comes from the writings of pilgrim monks from Asia, such as Xuanzang and Yijing, who travelled to the Mahavihara in the 7th century. All students at Nalanda studied Mahayana, as well as the texts of the eighteen Hinayana sects of Buddhism. Their curriculum also included other subjects, such as the Vedas, logic, Sanskrit grammar, medicine, and Samkhya.
Nalanda was destroyed thrice but rebuilt only twice. It was ransacked and destroyed by an army of the Mamluk Dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate under Bakhtiyar Khalji in 1200. While it is said the Mahavihara continued to function in a makeshift fashion after this attack, it was eventually abandoned altogether and forgotten until the 19th century, when the site was surveyed and preliminary excavations were conducted by the Archaeological Survey of India. Systematic excavations commenced in 1915, which unearthed eleven monasteries and six brick temples neatly arranged on grounds 12 hectares or 30 acres in area. A trove of sculptures, coins, seals, and inscriptions have also been discovered in the ruins, many of which are on display in the Nalanda Archaeological Museum, located nearby. Today, Nalanda is a notable tourist destination and part of the Buddhist tourism circuit. On 25 November 2010, the Indian government, through an Act of Parliament, resurrected the ancient university through the Nalanda University Bill, and subsequently, a new Nalanda University was established which has been designated as an International University of National Importance.
Several theories exist about the etymology of the name, Nalanda. According to the Tang Dynasty Chinese pilgrim, Xuanzang, it comes from Na al, lllam da meaning no end in gifts or charity without intermission. Yijing, another Chinese traveller, however, derives it from Naga Nanda referring to the name of a snake in the local tank, nanda being the name of the snake and naga being a snake. Hiranand Sastri, an archaeologist who headed the excavation of the ruins, attributes the name to the abundance of nalas or lotus-stalks in the area and believes that Nalanda would then represent the giver of lotus-stalks.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nalanda University is considered as one of the oldest universities in the world and was known as Nalanda Mahavira, its origins dating back to the 3rd century. Mahavira is a Sanskrit term for a great Vihara or Buddhist monastery. Located about 85 km away from Patna, it finds references in the oldest epics of India as well as in the travels of Hiuen Tsang. The Gupta kings built various monasteries in old Kusan style of architecture. Emperor Ashoka and Emperor Harshavandhana were also patrons of this university who built few temples, viharas, and monasteries for the university. With reference found in the Tibetan and Chinese scriptures, the university was a centre of advanced Vedic learnings until it was ransacked by Bakhtiyar Khilji in the 12th century. Lord Buddha visited Nalanda several times during his lifetime, but the university became popular in the later years when Hieun Tsang stayed here in the 7th century AD and he left a detailed description of the education system and monastic life here. The site was recovered by Archeological Survey of India in 1915. It’s said that the library of the university had so many books and manuscripts that it kept on burning for six months after the entire structure went up in flames.
The total area of excavation of the Nalanda University ruins archaeological complex is about 14 hectares. The edifices are of red bricks and the gardens are extremely beautiful. The buildings are divided by a central walkway. The monasteries are situated on the east of the walkway and the temples are situated in the west. Six temples built of brick and eleven monasteries orderly laid out were revealed during the excavations. Evidence of structures built over older ones is in plenty and many of these bore signs of fire damage. The university site is open from 9 am to 5 pm and visitors will need between one to two hours to tour the place. Entry fees for Indians, SAARC and BIMSTEC passport holders is INR 15 while others pay INR 200. Children below the age of 15 enter free.
Housing the ancient relics of Nalanda University, the Nalanda Archaeological Museum offers a glance into the culture of ancient Nalanda. Pala Art is displayed through the assorted artefacts maintained here. The statues here are mainly engraved on basalt stone, but others made out of stucco, bronze, stone and terracotta are also present. The Archaeological Survey of India maintains the museum which opened in 1917 and exhibits the antiquities that have been unearthed at Nalanda as well as from nearby Rajgir. Out of 13,463 items recovered, only 349 are on display in four galleries.
Another museum adjoining the excavated site is the privately run Nalanda Multimedia Museum which showcases the history of Nalanda through 3-D animation and other multimedia presentations.
The Hiuen Tsang Memorial Hall was built as a dedication to the Chinese scholar Hiuen Tsang and is a distinct reminder of the architectural style of the Nalanda University. Visitors will find multiple writings of Tsang preserved here. The Xuanzang Memorial Hall is an Indo-Chinese undertaking to honour the famed Buddhist monk and traveller. A relic, comprising a skull bone of the Chinese monk, is on display in the memorial hall.
Present amongst the ruins of the Nalanda University, the Great Stupa was built in the 3rd century by Emperor Ashoka in the honour of Sariputra. After the seven accretions to it, this structure is shaped like a pyramid and is flanked by flights of steps and splendid sculptures as well.
The Nav Nalanda Mahavihara was established by the Bihar government in 1951 to showcase the state’s ancient tradition to the modern world. It was built as a modern centre of Buddhism and today helps in educating people about the ancient Pali script and the Buddhist religion and is a great starting place for those interested in about the roots and history of the religion.
The Surya Mandir is a temple dedicated to the Sun God and is located near Nalanda University. Various Buddhist, as well as Hindu deities, are enshrined in this temple with the most attractive one being the five feet high idol of Goddess Parvati. Chatth Puja is held here twice a year in the Hindu months of Vaishakha and Kartika and is celebrated with great fervour.
Kundalpur, located just outside Nalanda, is believed to be the birthplace of Lord Mahavira, the 24th and last of the Jain Tirthankaras. It is also the place of birth of Gautam Swamiji who was the first disciple of Lord Mahavira. A grand temple with beautiful spires has been built here to mark the birthplace with a four and a half feet tall idol of Bhagwan Mahavira Padmasana. Within the complex, there is a serene Trikal Chaubeesi Jinmandir where there are 72 idols of Tirthankaras, representing 24 each of the past, present and the future age.
A holy city for the adherents of the Jain faith, Pawapuri is located about 12 km east of Nalanda. A long time ago, Pawapuri was the twin capital of Mall Mahajanpad. Mahajanpad later became a part of the kingdom of Magadha and Ajatshatru was a devotee of Lord Mahavira. During the rule of Ajatshatru, the king of Pawapuri was known as Hastipal. When in Pawapuri, Mahavira stayed in the Rajikshala of the king. It is considered as a sacred place because Lord Mahavira was buried here in 500 BC. Pawapuri has also been given the name Apapuri which means sinless town because Lord Mahavira was cremated here. After the cremation, there was a rush while collecting the ashes which led to the removal of a layer of the soil thereby resulting in the formation of a pond. This pond was later converted into a lotus pond, and a marble temple named Jalmandir was built in the centre of the pond. Some festivals celebrated here include the Rajgir Dance Festival and Chhath Puja. Other places of interest in Pawapuri include the Gaon Mandir which is the temple of the village and the place where Lord Mahavira took his last breath and the Samosaran temple which is the place where Lord Mahavira used to deliver sermons to his disciples, Gunayaji village which is located 20 km away from Pawapuri and is the place where the Shri Gunayaji Teerth Temple is situated.
In the next part, we shall see what the ancient city of Rajgir, the gateway of Vihar that is Sasaram and Kaimur have to offer its visitors
We start with the state’s capital Patna. The capital and largest city of the state, Patna is the 19th largest city in India, covering 250 sq km and with a population of over 2.5 million people, its urban agglomeration is the 18th largest in the country. One of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, Patna was founded in 490 BC by the Kings of Magadha. Ancient Patna, known as Patliputra or Pataliputra, was the capital of the Magadh Empire through the Haryanka, Nanda, Mauryan, Shunga, Gupta and Pala dynasties. Pataliputra was a seat of learning and fine arts and was home to many astronomers and scholars including Aryabhata, Vātsyāyana and Chanakya. During the Maurya period, around 300 BC, its population was about 400,000. Patna served as the seat of power, political and cultural centre of the Indian subcontinent during the Maurya and Gupta empires, but with the fall of the Gupta empire, Patna lost its glory which was revived again in the 17th century by the British as a centre of international trade. Following the partition of Bengal presidency in 1912, Patna became the capital of the Bihar and Orissa provinces and remained the capital even after the state of Jharkhand was carved out of Bihar. Patna is a pilgrimage for Sikh devotees as it is reckoned to be the birthplace of last Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh.
The modern city of Patna is mainly situated on the southern bank of the river Ganges and also straddles the rivers Sone, Gandak and Punpun. As of 2015, Patna’s was the 21st fastest growing city in the world and 5th fastest growing city in India according to a study by the City Mayors Foundation. Etymologically, Patna derives its name from the word Pattan, which means port in Sanskrit. It may be indicative of the location of this place on the confluence of four rivers, which functioned as a port. It is also believed that the city derived its name from Patan Devi, the presiding deity of the city, and her temple is one of the shakti peethas. Many also believe Patna derived its name from Patli, a variety of tree that was found in abundance in the historic city and is also seen on the state tourism’s logo. Patna is mentioned in the Chinese traveller Fa Hien’s records as Pa-lin-fou. Patna has been known by various names through more than 2,000 years of existence, from Pataligrama, Pataliputra, Kusumapura, Kusumdhwaja Pushpapuram, Padmavathi, Azimabad to the present-day Patna. Legend ascribes the origin of Patna to the mythological King Putraka who created Patna by magic for his queen Patali, literally the trumpet flower, which gives it its ancient name of Pataligrama. It is said that in honour of the queen’s first-born, the city was named Pataliputra where gram is Sanskrit for a village and Putra means son. Legend also says that the Emerald Buddha was created in Patna when it was Pataliputra by Nagasena in 43 BC.
Also known as Maa Patneshwari, the Patan Devi Mandir is one of the most sacred and the oldest temple in Patna and is believed from where Patna derived its name. The temple is one of the 51 shakti peethas according to the Hindu mythology and so is highly revered by Hindus. It is believed that the right thigh of Devi Sati fell here when the whole body was cut into 51 pieces by Vishnu’s Sudarshan Chakra.
The Mahavir Mandir is the second largest religious shrine in North India and is one of the leading temples dedicated to the worship of Lord Hanuman. Thousands of devotees from different parts of the country flock here daily to offer prayers to and seek blessings. It is believed that Sankat Mochan Hanuman listens to the prayers of his faithful devotees hence if worshipped with a pure heart no wishes would be left unfulfilled and hence it is also known as Manokamna Temple or the wish-fulfilling temple. The temple is located outside the Patna railway station and is a complex of buildings. The temple attracts huge crowds on festivals like Ramnavami and the temple’s offerings or neivedyam is prepared by experts from the famous Tirupati temple. The temple is open from 5:30 am and 10:30 pm.
The Harmandir Takht Shri Patna Sahib, popularly known as Patna Sahib Gurudwara is one of the holiest pilgrimages for the Sikh community. Located on the banks of holy Ganga, this Gurudwara was built commemorating the tenth Guru of Sikhs, Shri Guru Gobind Singh. Regarded as the epicentre of Sikhism in eastern India, this gurudwara is the second acknowledged and accepted Takht of the five Takhts or seats of the authority of Sikhism. The morning prayer or ardaas happens daily at 5:45 am and the evening prayers at 6 pm. The langar or free food service is offered to all the visitors and they are welcome to volunteer there since it is believed to be an offering to God. The Prakash Parv or the birth anniversary of Guru Gobind Singhji is celebrated in December every year which is one of the major attractions of this place. The Gurudwara is open daily from 5 am to 9 pm.
One of the oldest mosques in the city, the Begu Hajjam Mosque originally dates back to the 16th century and instead of being named after its creator, Muazzam Nazir Khan, it is named after its renovator Begu Hajjam. The architecture reflects the Gaur style, as it was built under the rule of Alauddin Shah, the ruler of Gaur. There is spirituality within the walls of the mosque and beautiful carvings on them.
The river Ganga flows through Patna and one cannot leave the city without experiencing a boat ride near Gandhi Ghat. A boat ride in the Ganges between October and March could be mesmerising with its serene and captivating surroundings. The Bihar State Tourism Development Corporation has also made available motorboats on weekends and recreation arrangements. The riverbank serves as an ideal place for picnics with friends and family, but it is to be noted that the riverside activities are not that developed as compared to Varanasi and Haridwar.
Gandhi Ghat is one of the most popular ghats on the banks of the river Ganges in the city, the name of the ghat coming from when the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi were immersed here. The highlight of the ghat is the mesmerising Ganga Aarti that is attended by thousands of devotees and tourists. The aarti is performed at dusk, with 51 lamps by priests dressed in saffron robes. The aarti was started in 2011 and was inspired by the ones that are performed in Varanasi and Haridwar. In addition to the boating which can be enjoyed at the ghat, it is also famous for the river cruise ship with a restaurant onboard which draws tourists. The kite festival is also a big event and is celebrated with a lot of pomp and show on the occasion of Makar Sankranti, every year.
The Agam Kuan is an archaeological site related to numerous myths and legends over the years with the most popular association with the Mauryan king Ashoka. The well is mentioned as the hell on earth in many accounts, which was probably once a part of Ashoka’s infamous Hell chambers used for torture before embracing Buddhism. People now treat the well with veneration and throw in flowers and coins to get their prayers and wishes heard.
The Shaheed Smarak or Martyr’s Memorial is a bronze statue commemorating the seven brave young men who sacrificed their lives in a protest trying to unfurl the Indian national flag during the Quit India Movement of 1942 outside a British administrative building which is now the Secretariat of Patna. The monument is a remarkable reminder of the cost of freedom, even if their names are not widely known.
The Bihar Museum provides insights into the history of Bihar and is a recent addition. One of the main reasons for establishing the museum was to create more space to house and exhibit artefacts since the century-old Patna museum was running out of space. Since there was little scope to relocate installed artefacts, the decision of keeping the focus on Human History was taken. Therefore, the Bihar Museum is where visitors can find information about the human history of Bihar to a large extent. The displays include ancient artefacts of artistic heritage, artworks belonging to various tribes and insights into the past and present of Bihar. The Bihar Museum is spread over an area of 5.6 hectares with a total built-up area of 24,000 sq m. The architecture has an interesting dispersed-scheme of buildings that include galleries, educational and administrative areas and a lobby. The museum is open from 10:30 am to 5 pm with a half-hour break between 1 and 1:30 pm for lunch. Entry fees are INR 50 for children, INR 100 for adults and INR 500 for foreigners.
The Patna Museum, also locally known as the Jadu Ghar houses more than 50,000 rare art objects, including Indian artefacts from the ancient, middle ages and the British colonial era. Built and opened in 1917, the museum is constructed in the style of the Mughal and Rajput architectures with different galleries that contain masterpieces from the past. The Holy Relic Casket, with the sacred ashes of Lord Buddha and the beautiful statue, Yakshani, are the most highlighted attractions of the place. Archaeological objects such as coins, art objects, paintings, instruments, textiles, thankas, bronze sculptures and terracotta images by various Hindu and Buddhist artists are on display in the museum. Another of the museum’s prized possessions is a rare collection of British-period paintings depicting day-to-day life of the Indians of the era, along with a fine collection related to the first President of India, Dr Rajendra Prasad, and a first World War cannon. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days except Mondays when it is closed. Entry fees are INR 15 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners.
The Indira Gandhi Planetarium, also known as the Patna Planetarium is one of the oldest and largest planetariums of Asia. It is also popularly known as Taramandal, meaning a circle of stars, and is one of the largest and most well-maintained planetariums in the country. A wide range of film shows on subjects related to astronomy is showcased here. Apart from that, exhibitions are also held on various related topics for visitors. There is a huge dome-shaped screen here to showcase movies where visitors need to look upon the roof to enjoy the amazing feeling of watching a sky full of fascinating stars, moons and other celestial bodies. The planetarium is open from 10 am to 5 pm with show timings at 12:30 pm, 2 pm, 3:30 pm and 5 pm and is closed on Mondays. Entry fees are INR 50 with tickets mandatory for children over 3 years of age.
The Gandhi Sangrahalaya is among eleven such public museums across India. The museum displays a visual biography of Mahatma Gandhi’s life with the help of pictures of important milestones from childhood to death, documents, quotes, models and other memorabilia. There are books and audio-visual materials about his life, principles and the struggle for freedom.
Established in 1891, the Khuda Bakhsh Oriental Library has a very wide collection of Mughal and Islamic scriptures including a 25 mm wide version of the Quran. It also has Nadir Shah’s sword which he raised at the Sunehri Mosque in Delhi, to order the massacre of the residents of the city. This library contains close to 250,000 books and is located on the Ashok Raj Path.
Located near Agamkuan, Jalan Museum, also popularly known as Quila House is a private museum and visitors intending to visit will need to call them and take permission before visiting. The museum has a great collection from the Mughal period and also houses some unique artefacts like the wooden bed of Napoleon III. This museum was built by Diwan Bahadur R.K. Jain in 1919 and has English and Dutch influences on its architecture and has more than 10,000 artefacts, mostly belonging to the modern period.
Golghar is a simple yet charming amalgam of history and natural beauty, built-in 1786 by Captain John Garstin as a storehouse. Golghar was never filled to its maximum capacity as it is believed that due to an engineering fault the doors open inwards only, and if the granary were to be filled all the way, the doors would not open. In addition to being a huge granary, the top of Golghar presents a wonderful panoramic view of the city and the Ganges and is a spot which locals visit to get a respite from the din of the city. Rising from the midst of a lush green garden, the stupa-shaped structure of Golghar is encircled by a flight of 145 stairs that take you to the top, from where you can see a bird’s eye view of the entire city. Visitors can also arrange for a picnic in the garden where the Golghar lies and to increase the visitor influx to Golghar, a light and sound show has been introduced as well. Golghar is open from 9:30 am to 6 pm and has no entry fees to visit.
The Mahatma Gandhi Setu is the second-longest river bridge in India, the first one being the Bhupen Hazarika Setu or the Dhola-Sadiya Bridge in Assam. The Mahatma Gandhi Setu extends over the Ganges for 5.7 km. Named after the father of the nation, the bridge connects the capital city of Patna in the south to Hajipur in the north. The bridge has four lanes of roadways and pedestrian pathways on each side and is an indispensable part of daily vehicular transport. Earlier, there used to be toll gates, but the government has removed them. The bridge provides some spectacular views of the Ganga river flowing underneath. Today, National Highway 19 operates through it, with the government scheduled for the building of two pontoon or floating bridges parallel to it to curb traffic, which has drastically increased over the years. Before this bridge, people from this region travelled between Patna and Hajipur by ferry or boat. Though there is no entry fee to access the bridge, toll fees depend on the type of vehicle and taxes levied by the government.
The ancient city of Patliputra, Kumhrar has undergone multiple excavation operations to unearth ruins like the Assembly Hall, Anand Bihar, Arogya Vihar and the Durakhi Devi Temple. Located just 5 km from Patna railway station with ruins dating back to 600 BC, the ancient city has many ruins marking the capital of the Ajatshatru, Chandragupta and Ashoka empires between the 600 BC and 600 AD.
Also known as Maner Sharif, the Chhoti Dargah is a 3-storied mausoleum located in Maner, 30 km west of Patna and is an architectural marvel. The Muslim saint Makhdum Shah was buried here in 1616 and is now a popular dargah for devotees in Patna and its surrounding areas. There is also a large tank just in front of the mausoleum. A mosque was also built later in this compound by Ibrahim Khan in 1619.
Located on Frazer Road near Patna Junction, the Buddha Smriti Udyan is a large urban park which was constructed by the Patna Government to commemorate the 2554th anniversary of Lord Buddha and was inaugurated in 2010 by the 14th Dalai Lama himself. The highlight of the park is the magnanimous Patliputra Karuna Stupa situated in the centre of the park. Sprawling over 22 acres, two special saplings were planted here at the time of its opening, one brought from Bodh Gaya and the other from Mahameghavana Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. The park complex also has a museum which houses the pot containing Lord Buddha’s ashes and also showcases Buddhist relics from Japan, Myanmar and Sri Lanka. Very often, there are musical shows and events organised inside the park and the park is often crowded during the morning and evening hours as people flock here for walks and meditation exercises. The laser show in the park is a local favourite which show retells the story of Bihar from the time of Ramayana up until post Independence. The Meditation Centre in the park was conceived and ideated on the lines of the monasteries and Mahaviharas of Nalanda and has around 60 cells where one can go and meditate. Each of these rooms provides a view of the Stupa which has relics of the Sakyamuni Buddha and there is also a library with books on Buddhism and an audiovisual hall. The Smriti Bagh, also known as the Park of Memories, is a wide-open space with sculptures from different countries installed to represent the expansion of Buddhism across different countries in the world. The highlight of the park is the Patliputra Karuna Stupa which enshrines the relics of the Sakyamuni Buddha encased in glass. The building is three storeys tall and is open to the public. The park is open from 9 am to 5 pm daily. Entry fees to the park are INR 20, to the Karuna Stupa, INR 50, the meditation centre, INR 500 and the museum is INR 40.
The Sanjay Gandhi Botanical Garden, or as it is locally known, the Sanjay Gandhi Jaivik Udyan was established in 1969 and has been a source of nature and greenery to the city since then. Also known as the Patna Zoo, the park has many varieties of flora and fauna, in addition to a boating facility, elephant ride, toy train for kids etc. the garden is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for adults and INR 10 for children.
The Gandhi Maidan Park is a famous historical venue spanning an area of about 60 acres. This park was frequented by several influential leaders of the Indian Independence Movement for launching political campaigns, freedom rallies, parades and holding religious ceremonies. Formerly known as Patna Lawns, the grounds house the tallest statue of Mahatma Gandhi in the world, a bronze figurine that rises to over 70 feet. It is a prominent landmark and is located near Ashok Rajpath, approximately 2-3 km from the city centre. During its heyday, distinguished guests like Mahatma Gandhi, Maulana Azad, Jawaharlal Nehru, Sardar Patel, Rajendra Prasad, Indira Gandhi and many more made their powerful voices heard in these lawns. Even today, it acts as a hub for political rallies and other major events. The 72-feet tall bronze statue of Mahatma Gandhi lies in the south-western corner of the ground and also has one of the eleven Gandhi Sangrahalayas or Gandhi Museums in the north-western corner.
Officially known as Shaheed Veer Kunwar Singh Azadi Park, Hardinge Park is one of the oldest in the country. An urban the park built in 1916, the park was dedicated to the British Viceroy Charles Hardinge.
In the next part, we will check out Hajipur and the ancient university town of Nalanda.
Arguably the most fascinating and least understood country in the Arab world, Yemen has a way of attracting comment that ranges from the superficial to the wildly fantastic.
A country long regarded by classical geographers as a fabulous land where flying serpents guarded sacred incense groves, while medieval Arab visitors told tales of disappearing islands and menstruating mountains.
Our current ideas of this country at the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula have been hijacked by images of the terrorist strongholds, drone attacks, and diplomatic tensions.
But, as Mackintosh-Smith reminds us in this newly updated book, there is another Arabia. Yemen may be a part of Arabia, but it is like no place on earth.
A state in the eastern part of India, Bihar is the third-largest state by population and the twelfth-largest by territory. It is bordered by Uttar Pradesh to its west, Nepal to the north, the northern part of West Bengal to the east, and Jharkhand to the south. The Bihar plain is split by the river Ganges, which flows from west to east and three main cultural regions converge in the state: Magadh, Mithila, and Bhojpur and is also the world’s third-most populous sub-national entity. On 15 November 2000, southern Bihar was ceded to form the new state of Jharkhand. The state is mostly rural with only 11.3% of the population living in urban areas, the lowest in India after Himachal Pradesh. Bihar is also a very young state with almost 58% of Biharis below the age of 25, giving it the highest proportion of young people of any Indian state.
The name Bihar has been derived from the Sanskrit and Pali word vihara, meaning Abode. The region roughly encompassing the present state had many Buddhist viharas, which were the abodes of Buddhist monks in the ancient and medieval periods.
In ancient and classical India, the area that is now Bihar was considered a centre of power, learning, and culture. From Magadha arose India’s first empire, the Maurya empire, as well as one of the world’s most widely adhered-to religions, Buddhism. The Magadha empires, notably under the Maurya and Gupta dynasties, unified large parts of South Asia under a central rule. Another region of Bihar is Mithila which was an early centre of learning and the centre of the Videha kingdom.
The history of Bihar is one of the most varied in India. Each of Bihar’s three distinct regions of Magadh, Mithila and Bhojpur have their distinct history and culture. Chirand, on the northern bank of the Ganga River, in the Saran district, has an archaeological record from the Neolithic age, about 2500–1345 BC. Regions such as Magadha, Mithila and Anga are mentioned in religious texts and epics of ancient India with Mithila believed to be the centre of Indian power in the Later Vedic period which occurs between 1100 to 500 BCE. Mithila first gained prominence after the establishment of the Videha kingdom. The Kings of the Videha Kingdom were called the Janakas. A daughter of one of the Janaks of Mithila, Sita, is mentioned as the consort of Lord Rama in the Hindu epic Ramayana, written by Valmiki. The Videha Kingdom later became incorporated into the Vajji confederacy which had its capital in the city of Vaishali, also in Mithila. Magadha, another region of Bihar was the centre of Indian power, learning and culture for about a thousand years. Based on the information found in texts about Jainism and Buddhism, Vajji was established as a republic by the 6th century BC, before the birth of Gautama Buddha in 563 BC, making it the first known republic in India. The Haryanka dynasty, founded in 684 BC, ruled Magadha from the city of Rajgriha also known as Rajgir today. The two well-known kings from this dynasty were Bimbisara and his son Ajatashatru, who imprisoned his father to ascend the throne and who founded the city of Pataliputra which later became the capital of Magadha. The Haryanka dynasty was followed by the Shishunaga dynasty and then the Nanda Dynasty who ruled a vast tract stretching from Bengal to Punjab. The Nanda dynasty was replaced by the Maurya Empire, India’s first empire. Modern Bihar was also the birthplace of Buddhism and Jainism. The Mauryan Empire, which originated from Magadha in 325 BC, was founded by Chandragupta Maurya, who was born in Magadh and had its capital at Pataliputra which is modern Patna. Pataliputra, adjacent to modern-day Patna, was an important political, military and economic centre of Indian civilisation during the ancient and classical periods of Indian history. Many ancient Indian texts, aside from religious epics, were written in ancient Bihar with the play Abhijñānaśākuntala the most prominent. Emperor Ashoka, born in Pataliputra, is often considered to be among the most accomplished rulers in world history. The Gupta Empire, which originated in Magadha in 240 AD, is referred to as the Golden Age of India in science, mathematics, astronomy, commerce, religion, and Indian philosophy. Bihar and Bengal were invaded by Rajendra Chola I of the Chola dynasty in the 11th century.
Buddhism in Magadha went into decline due to the invasion of Muhammad bin Bakhtiyar Khalji, during which many of the viharas were destroyed along with the universities of Nalanda and Vikramashila. Some historians believe that thousands of Buddhist monks were massacred during the 12th century. After the fall of the Pala Empire, the Chero dynasty ruled some parts of Bihar from the 12th century until the Mughal rule in the 16th century. In 1540, Sher Shah Suri took northern India from the Mughals and declared Delhi his capital. From the 11th century to the 20th century, Mithila was ruled by various indigenous dynasties. The first of these was the Karnatas, followed by the Oiniwar dynasty and Raj Darbhanga and during this period the capital of Mithila was shifted to Darbhanga. The tenth and the last guru of Sikhism, Guru Gobind Singh, was born in Patna in 1666. With political instability in the Mughal Empire following Aurangzeb’s death in 1707, Murshid Quli Khan declared Bengal’s independence and named himself Nawab of Bengal.
After the Battle of Buxar in 1764, the British East India Company obtained the rights to administer and collect tax revenue for Bihar, Bengal and Odisha and the rich resources of the land attracted the Dutch and the British. Bihar remained a part of the Bengal Presidency of British India until 1912 when Bihar and Orissa were carved out as separate provinces. In the northern and central regions of Bihar, the Kisan Sabha or the peasant movement was an important consequence of the independence movement which began in 1929.
After the Pala period, Bihar played a very small role in Indian history until the emergence of the Suri dynasty during the Medieval period in the 1540s. After the fall of the Suri dynasty in 1556, Bihar again became a marginal player in India and was the staging post for the British colonial Bengal Presidency from the 1750s and up to the war of 1857–58. Since the late 1970s, Bihar has lagged far behind other Indian states in terms of social and economic development.
Bihar has the fastest-growing state economy in terms of GSDP, and the state’s economy was projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate or CAGR of 13.4% during the 12th Five-Year Plan from 2012 to 2017. Bihar is the fourth-largest producer of vegetables and the eighth-largest producer of fruits with about 80% of the state’s population employed in agriculture.
The culture and heritage of Bihar can be observed from the large number of ancient monuments spread throughout the state which is visited by many tourists from around the world. In the past, tourism in the region was purely based on educational tourism, as Bihar was home of some prominent ancient universities like Nalanda and Vikramashila. This can easily be seen that one of my most popular posts in recent times was about the Chhath Pooja of Bihar!
In the next part we shall see what the capital city of Patna has to offer visitors.
Memories and Such 
