Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 17 – Selangor Part 3

Petaling Jaya

Fondly known as PJ, Petaling Jaya was originally developed as a satellite township for Kuala Lumpur. It is part of the Greater Kuala Lumpur area and covers an area of approximately 97 sq km. It was granted city status on June 20, 2006. The city is surrounded by Kuala Lumpur to the east, Sungai Buloh to the north, Shah Alam, the capital of Selangor, Subang Jaya to the west, and Bandar Kinrara or Puchong to the south.

The city was developed during post-war British Malaya on a piece of 1,200-acre rubber estate, the Effingham Estate, around Old Klang Road to address the overpopulation of Kuala Lumpur in the 1950s. Since 1952, PJ has witnessed dramatic growth in terms of population size and geographical importance. The development of Petaling Jaya commenced in 1952 with the construction of 800 houses centred on the area known as Old Town today.

Petaling Jaya was planned to be a satellite town to prevent people from assisting the communists, hence, the earlier housing areas were fenced off from the surrounding area. The first two main roads built in Petaling Jaya were simply called Jalan 1 or Road 1 and Jalan 2 or Road 2. Road 1 was later named Jalan Templer while Road 2 was named Jalan Othman after Othman Mohamad, former Menteri Besar or Chief Minister of Selangor. Until the end of 1953, the town was administered by the Kuala Lumpur district officer. The Petaling Jaya Town Authority commenced administrating Petaling Jaya in 1954. Administratively and historically, it was considered part of Kuala Lumpur. However, Petaling Jaya ceased to be part of Kuala Lumpur when the latter became a Federal Territory, and at that point, it became a township in its own right within the state of Selangor.

Following a boundary realignment exercise in January 1997, parts of Petaling Jaya including Subang Jaya, USJ, Putra Heights, and Bandar Sunway were ceded to the newly formed Subang Jaya Municipal Council. In exchange, the MPPJ annexed Bandar Utama, Sungai Buloh, Bukit Lanjan, and Kota Damansara from the Petaling District Council, which disestablished itself after the cession. Due to the proximity of the city to the capital of Malaysia, Petaling Jaya has been the headquarters of many federal government departments.

A prominent landmark in PJ is the Kota Darul Ehsan arch, which symbolically marks the boundary between Kuala Lumpur and Petaling Jaya. This arch straddled the Federal Highway which was originally the only highway link between Petaling Jaya and Kuala Lumpur. However, many links now exist as alternatives to the congested Federal Highway. Close to the Kelana Jaya Line’s Taman Jaya station is the Petaling Jaya Museum, as well as the Thai Wat Chetawan temple, very popular amongst the Buddhist community. A short drive ahead is PJ State, the nickname for the Central Business District of Petaling Jaya with the landmark Menara MBPJ as a focal point. PJ State is more formally referred to as PJ New Town. Damansara is the main shopping hub of Petaling Jaya with many of the city’s shopping malls being located there.

The Forest Research Institute Malaysia is one of the chief institutes in tropical forestry research in the world housing a multiplicity of flora and fauna. The institute provides an opportunity for camping at Perah Campsite, trekking at natural trails and picnics at Sungei Kroh. Kepong Botanical Garden, the Ethnobotanical Garden and the Colours of FRIM allow visitors to explore. Other places worth visiting include the Research Gallery, Malay traditional houses, the Wetland area, the Arboretum and the Silicified Wood.

Situated in 1 Utama Shopping Centre, the Secret Garden is regarded as one of the largest rooftop gardens in the world. This garden sprawls across an area of about 30,000 sq ft and houses about 600 species of plants. The garden is divided into several zones based on the various species of plants. Some of the most attractive zones of the Secret Garden include the Rainforest Zone and the Victoria Amazonica Zone. The meandering pathways that are constructed between beds of plants are quite attractive, and artificial ponds and waterfalls accentuate the beauty of the place. Guided tours are also available during the first weekend of the month. The garden is open only on weekends and public holidays between 10 am and 10 pm.

Wat Chetawan is a popular Buddhist temple. A Theravada Buddhist Thai temple, with the Buddha Thammeen shrine inside, is a sight to behold, with its sparkling gold seat. People believe that this complex is built in the only true and original Thai style. Also known as the Chetawan Buddhist Temple, the temple was built in 1957 and officiated by the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej, the King of Thailand at the time. The temple is also the only Malaysian Siamese temple that has been chosen as the custodian of the Buddha sacred relics for all Malaysian Buddhists that are parts of the ancient relics discovered in Piprahwa, a village in Uttar Pradesh near the border of the Kingdom of Nepal in 1898 which were presented to King Chulalongkorn of Siam by the then British Viceroy of India, Lord Curzon.

The main shrine is heavily gilded in gold leaves and intricately decorated with multi-coloured glass tiles. The main prayer hall houses several images of Buddha while the pavilion features the four-faced God, Phra Phrom and the Bodhisattva of Compassion, Guan Yin. Another prayer hall pays tribute to abbots with Malay titles that marked their northern Malay Peninsula and southern Thai origins.

Muzium Coklat is also known as the Chocolate Museum where visitors can learn all about the history of chocolate and can watch how chocolate is processed and prepared, taste samples and even buy some to take back home.

Also called the Muzium Petaling Jaya, the Petaling Jaya Museum showcases the history and development of Petaling Jaya. The museum building was originally established in 1980 as a children’s reading house. In 1992, the reading house ceased to function due to its location and the building was taken over by the environment and development department. It was then transformed into a nature education centre and in April 2007, the building was turned into a museum. Construction and renovation work were completed in October 2007 and the museum was officially opened on November 12, 2007. It was later closed for renovation and reopened again in April 2016. The museum showcases the historical development of Petaling Jaya and is housed in three sections: the origin of Petaling Jaya, the administration of Petaling Jaya, and the expansion of Petaling Jaya. The museum is open daily except Fridays and public holidays from 9 am to 5 pm and admission is free. The museum is within walking distance of the Taman Jaya LRT Station.

Batu Caves

Batu Caves, a Mogote type of karst landform, has a series of caves and cave temples in Gombak. It takes its name from the Malay word batu, meaning rock. The cave complex is one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside India, is dedicated to Lord Murugan, and is the focal point of the Tamil festival of Thaipusam in Malaysia. The caves are also referred to as the 10th cave or hill for Murugan, as there are six important holy shrines in India and four more in Malaysia. The three others in Malaysia are Kallumalai Temple in Ipoh, Tanneermalai Temple in Penang, and Sannasimalai Temple in Malacca.

The limestone forming Batu Caves is said to be around 400 million years old, with some of the cave entrances used as shelters by the indigenous Temuan people. As early as 1860, Chinese settlers began excavating guano to fertilise their vegetable patches. However, they became famous only after the limestone hills were recorded by colonial authorities in 1878.

The cave was promoted as a place of worship by K. Thamboosamy Pillai, an Indian Tamil trader. He was inspired by the vel-shaped entrance of the main cave and was inspired to dedicate a temple to Lord Murugan within the caves. In 1890, Pillai, who also founded the Sri Mahamariamman Temple in Kuala Lumpur, installed the consecrated statue of Sri Murugan Swami in what is today known as the Temple Cave. Since 1892, the Thaipusam festival in the Tamil month of Thai, which falls in late January/early February, has been celebrated there.

Wooden steps up to the Temple Cave were built in 1920. In the 1930s, the stairs began to show signs of wear and tear, and it was proposed to build two flights of concrete stairs to the upper caves. The proposal was forwarded in 1939, and work was completed in 1940. Currently, there are 272 concrete steps. Of the various cave temples that comprise the site, the largest and best known is the Temple Cave, so named because it houses several Hindu shrines beneath its high vaulted ceiling.

In August 2018, the 272 steps were painted, with each set of steps painted in a different range of colours. At the base of the hill are two more cave temples, the Art Gallery Cave and the Museum Cave, both of which are full of Hindu statues and paintings. This complex was renovated and opened as the Cave Villa in 2008. Many of the shrines relate the story of Lord Murugan’s victory over the demon Soorapadman. An audio tour is available to visitors.

The Ramayana Cave is situated to the extreme left as one faces the sheer wall of the hill. On the way to the Ramayana Cave, there is a 15-meter-tall statue of Lord Hanuman and a temple dedicated to him. The consecration ceremony for the temple was held in November 2001. The Ramayana Cave depicts the story of Rama in the manner of a chronicle along the irregular walls of the cave. A 43 m high statue of Lord Murugan was unveiled in January 2006, having taken three years to construct. It is the second-tallest Murugan statue in the world.

The Batu Cave hill and its numerous caverns contain a wealth of plants and animals, many of which are specialised for limestone environments. A total of 269 species of vascular plants have been recorded from the site, including 56 species which are found only on limestones. Various undeveloped caves contain a diverse range of cave fauna, including some unique species. The caves have some 21 species of bats, including several species of fruit bats and is also well known for its numerous long-tailed macaques, which visitors feed — sometimes involuntarily. These monkeys may also pose a biting hazard to tourists. especially small children as they can be quite territorial.

Below the Temple Cave is the Dark Cave, with speleothems and many animals found nowhere else. It is a two-km network of relatively untouched caverns. Stalactites jutting from the cave’s ceiling and stalagmites rising from the floor form intricate formations such as cave curtains, flowstones, cave pearls, and scallops which took thousands of years to form. To maintain the cave’s ecology, access is restricted. The Malaysian Nature Society organises regular educational and adventure trips to the Dark Wet Caves.

Batu Caves has also been the centre of rock climbing development in Malaysia for the past 10 years. The caves offer more than 160 climbing routes scattered all around and are easily accessed, as most crags start from ground level. These climbing routes often start from the Northeastern side of the cave complex whereas the staircase and temple entrance face the South. This Northeastern area is known as the Damai caves. Abseiling and spelunking trips can be organised with some local adventure companies.

Batu Caves serves as the focus of the Tamil community’s yearly Thaipusam festival. They have become a pilgrimage site not only for Malaysian Hindus, but Hindus worldwide. A procession begins in the wee hours of the morning on Thaipusam from the Sri Mahamariamman Temple in Kuala Lumpur leading up to Batu Caves as a religious undertaking to Lord Murugan lasting eight hours. Devotees carry containers containing milk as an offering to Lord Murugan either by hand or in huge decorated carriers on their shoulders called Kavadis. The kavadi may be simple wooden arched semi-circular supports holding a carrier foisted with brass or clay pots of milk or huge, heavy ones which may rise to two metres, built of bowed metal frames which hold long skewers, the sharpened end of which pierce the skin of the bearers torso. The kavadi is decorated with flowers and peacock feathers imported from India. Some kavadi may weigh as much as a hundred kilograms.

After bathing in the nearby Sungai Batu or Rocky River, the devotees make their way to the Temple Cave and climb the flights of stairs to the temple in the cave. Devotees use the wider centre staircase while worshippers and onlookers throng up and down those balustrades on either side. When the kavadi bearer arrives at the foot of the 272-step stairway leading up to the Temple Cave, the devotee has to make the arduous climb. Priests attend to the kavadi bearers. Consecrated ash is sprinkled over the hooks and skewers piercing the devotees’ flesh before they are removed. No blood is shed during the piercing and removal.

In the last decade, the surrounding area has changed from a small village to industrial estates, new housing, and retail. There is also an elevated flyover across the highway. A new 515-million-ringgit KTM Komuter rail extension from Sentul to Batu Caves began operations in July 2010, serving the rebuilt Batu Caves Komuter station.

The cave is open from 6 am to 9 pm and the best and fastest way to reach the cave from Kuala Lumpur is via the commuter train which stops at the Batu Caves Komuter station opposite the cave complex. The fare from KL Sentral to Batu Caves is around RM 2.6 per person. One can also take a taxi which costs between RM 30 to RM 40, but depending on which part of KL one is coming from, take quite a bit of time, given the traffic.

Ampang Jaya

Commonly known as Ampang, Ampang Jaya is located just outside the eastern border of Kuala Lumpur Federal Territory. Ampang was one of the earliest areas in the Klang Valley to be opened for tin mining. The name Ampang is derived from the old spelling of the Malay word empangan or ampangan, which means a dam; the place referred to the miners’ dams. A road was built to connect Ampang to Kuala Lumpur which is today’s Jalan Ampang.

Between colonial rule and February 1974, Ampang was part of greater Kuala Lumpur in Selangor. Following the creation of the Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur, Ampang was split into two; the western part, located within the Federal Territory, became Ampang Hilir, and the eastern part, which remained in Selangor, became part of Hulu Langat or Kajang.

During the height of the Malayan Emergency in the 1950s, the British established the Ampang New Village, which became one of the largest Chinese settlements in the Klang Valley. The Kau Ong Yah Lam Thian Kiong Temple in Ampang New Village is famous for the 9 Emperor Gods festival, which is celebrated annually on the 9th month of the Chinese lunar calendar, between late September and early October.

Ampang Jaya borders the remainder of Hulu Langat District in the east and south, the Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur in the west, the Gombak District in the north, and a short border with Bentong in Pahang in the northeast.

The Zoo Negara or National Zoo is located on 110 acres of land in Ulu Klang in Gombak. It was officially opened on November 14, 1963, by the country’s first prime minister Tunku Abdul Rahman. The zoo is managed by the Malaysian Zoological Society and is home to 5,137 animals of 476 different species. When it was opened, it was known as the Zoo in the Jungle due to the lush vegetation that dominated the region. The zoo welcomed its millionth visitor on 14 November 1966, just three years after opening, and by 1986, the zoo was attracting over 1 million visitors per year. The zoo remained surrounded by dense tropical forests until the late 1970s when Kuala Lumpur experienced rapid population growth fueled by an economic boom. Nearby Ulu Klang was targeted for large-scale residential development to accommodate the expanding urban population, resulting in habitat loss in formerly wild areas surrounding the zoo. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, there were plans to move the zoo to other locations in Selangor. However, the plans were largely unpopular among the public and it was decided not to relocate the zoo.

The Reptile Park has both indoor and outdoor exhibits and includes saltwater crocodiles, false gharials, and dwarf crocodiles as well as tortoises and terrapins, including Aldabra giant tortoises which are the second largest tortoise species in the world and local Tutong or river terrapins. The Amphibian World center at the Reptile Park has a variety of frogs and toads that originate from various habitats in Malaysia. In 2014, a male and female giant panda pair named Xing Xing and Liang Liang went on public display at an air-conditioned, purpose-built Giant Panda Conservation Centre next to tram stop T5. The pandas are on a 10-year loan to Malaysia. On 26 May 2018, Yi Yi, a four-month-old female panda went on show for the first time. The cub is the second born in Malaysia. The cub’s sister, Nuan Nuan, was born in August 2015 and sent back to China in 2017 as part of Beijing’s agreement with Malaysia that cubs born in captivity must be sent back to China at the age of two. The third giant panda cub was born in June 2021.

The zoo is home to three Asian elephants: two females, Siti who was born in 1979 in Fraser’s Hill; Sibol, who was born in 1978 at Temerloh and a male, Teriang, who was born in 1980. The trio have been in the zoo since they were very young. This aviary holds over a hundred species of birds from all around the world. The Birds Photo Corner in the aviary lets visitors take souvenir photos with a variety of macaws and cockatoos on weekends. The Nocturnal Exhibits which are indoor, are home to fruit bats, the largest bat in the world, which are sometimes called flying foxes, as well as mousedeer. The Australian Plain is home to emus, agile wallabies, red kangaroos, and red-legged pademelons.

Children’s World houses a variety of mostly domestic animals including goats, rabbits, ducks, and chickens running around freely, as well as parrots and guinea pigs. It includes a mini-rainforest with a variety of plants and insects, as well as a small aviary, fish pond, miniature horse barn, and playground. The Bear Complex is home to several types of bears including Asian black bears, brown bears, and sun bears. The Savannah Walk is one of the largest open-concept exhibits in the zoo and is home to giraffes, plains zebras, ostriches, white rhinos, sable antelopes, and scimitar oryx. Zoo Negara’s Tunku Abdul Rahman Aquarium is the first ecological-based freshwater aquarium that highlights the Malaysian river and wetlands. The aquarium exhibits show the ecosystem or the habitats of Malaysian river systems in the upper, middle, and lower estuarine zones and finally, the sea. The aquarium features fish that are commonly seen in Malaysian rivers, as well as rare and endangered species including invertebrates such as crabs, prawns, corals, and aquatic insects.

Zoo Negara has also built an insect zoo where more than 200 species of insects from around the world are housed. Opened in 2010, the Hornbill Centre is a breeding centre houses 7 species of hornbills native to Malaysia, including great hornbills, Oriental pied hornbills, rhinoceros hornbills and wrinkled hornbills. Other attractions include sea lions, macaques and macaws that are part of a Multi-Animal Show that is shown twice daily. Train rides and guided tours are available on weekends.

The Mini Bee Museum is located at the heart of Zoo Negara and helps educate visitors about the many types of bees in the country. The Multi-Animal Photo Corner is located by the zoo’s main entrance and is opens on weekends. Visitors can have their pictures taken with snakes, miniature horses and birds.

The Ampang Recreational Forest or Taman Rimba Ampang in Malay is a lowland dipterocarp forest that takes its name from the Ampang River, which flows through the forest. The forest is one of the most popular nature sites in the Klang Valley with the stream and shady playgrounds popular for family outings on weekends. In 2005 the forest was included in the much-larger Selangor State Park. Numerous species of plants and animals can be seen in the forest with the forest frequented by birdwatchers. Several bridges, pedestrian walkways, toilets, playgrounds and other facilities have been built in the park over the years. A nominal fee is charged for the car park and entry to the forest. The park can be reached by taking a train to the Ampang LRT station and then taking a taxi to the park.

Nirvana Memorial Park is a private cemetery and mortuary with the longest dragon statue in Malaysia. It is 1,000 feet long and fully air-conditioned inside. It was established in 1985 by David Kong and is touted as the largest funeral service in Southeast Asia and also serves as a pet cemetery.

In My Hands Today…

An American Martyr in Persia: The Epic Life and Tragic Death of Howard Baskerville – Reza Aslan

Little known in America but venerated as a martyr in Iran, Howard Baskerville was a twenty-two-year-old Christian missionary from South Dakota who traveled to Persia (modern-day Iran) in 1907 for a two-year stint teaching English and preaching the gospel. He arrived in the midst of a democratic revolution—the first of its kind in the Middle East—led by a group of brilliant young firebrands committed to transforming their country into a fully self-determining, constitutional monarchy, one with free elections and an independent parliament.

The Persian students Baskerville educated in English in turn educated him about their struggle for democracy, ultimately inspiring him to leave his teaching post and join them in their fight against a tyrannical shah and his British and Russian backers. “The only difference between me and these people is the place of my birth,” Baskerville declared, “and that is not a big difference.”

In 1909, Baskerville was killed in battle alongside his students, but his martyrdom spurred on the revolutionaries who succeeded in removing the shah from power, signing a new constitution, and rebuilding parliament in Tehran. To this day, Baskerville’s tomb in the city of Tabriz remains a place of pilgrimage. Every year, thousands of Iranians visit his grave to honor the American who gave his life for Iran.

In this rip-roaring tale of his life and death, Aslan gives us a powerful parable about the universal ideals of democracy—and to what degree Americans are willing to support those ideals in a foreign land. Woven throughout is an essential history of the nation we now know as Iran—frequently demonized and misunderstood in the West. Indeed, Baskerville’s life and death represent a “road not taken” in Iran. Baskerville’s story, like his life, is at the center of a whirlwind in which Americans must ask themselves: How seriously do we take our ideals of constitutional democracy and whose freedom do we support?

Short Story: The Yellow Umbrella

The sun had just begun its ascent, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. Baga Beach in North Goa came alive with the arrival of tourists eager to soak in its beauty. Amongst the bustling crowd was Ramesh, a cheerful middle-aged man with a ready smile, running a small seafood stall near the shoreline. Besides selling mouth-watering delicacies, he had another source of income – renting out his prized possession, the vibrant yellow umbrella adorned with intricate embroidery and playful tassels.

“Welcome, welcome! Come try the best seafood on the beach,” Ramesh called out, his voice filled with warmth. “And for those looking to sunbathe, I have the most beautiful umbrellas to keep you shaded.”

Ramesh had many beautiful umbrellas from which tourists could choose, but the yellow umbrella stood out amongst the regular ones. It had become a symbol of delight and an Instagram-worthy prop for tourists. Its bright and cheerful appearance brought joy to anyone sitting underneath it.

Aria and Marco were a young couple, in Goa for their honeymoon. As they approached Ramesh’s stall, Aria’s eyes sparkled at the sight of the yellow umbrella. “Marco, look at that beautiful umbrella! Let’s rent it for the day,” she suggested, excitement lacing her voice. Marco couldn’t resist his wife’s enthusiasm and agreed. They settled under the yellow umbrella, sipping coconut water and holding hands as they watched the waves playfully dance along the shore. They shared their dreams, and fears, and promised to love each other through thick and thin.

Later that day, a group of college friends from different cities decided to spend their summer break in Goa. Among them was Kabir, a reserved but charming young man. As they explored the beach, they stumbled upon Ramesh’s stall and the magnificent yellow umbrella. “Hey, guys! Let’s get this umbrella. It’s so cool!” Kabir suggested, hoping it might help break the ice among the friends. They agreed, and soon laughter filled the air as they played games, sang songs, and created unforgettable memories under the yellow umbrella. As the sun dipped below the horizon, they knew that this trip would strengthen their bond, and the yellow umbrella would forever hold a special place in their hearts.

The next morning, a solo traveller named Emily, an artist from a far-off country, arrived at Baga Beach with her sketchbook and paints. The yellow umbrella caught her eye like a beacon of inspiration. “Could I possibly rent that marvellous umbrella?” she asked Ramesh, her eyes wide with excitement. “Of course, my dear! It’s yours for the day,” Ramesh replied with a smile. Emily spent the day capturing the essence of Goa in her artwork. The rhythmic sound of the waves and the laughter of children playing in the sand infused life into her creations. The yellow umbrella became the focal point of her painting, representing the joy and vibrancy she had experienced that day.

The next day brought a sudden change in the weather. Dark clouds loomed over the horizon, threatening to rain on everyone’s parade. However, it was also the day that Ramesh received a call from his son, who was studying in a different state. “Baba, I’ll be coming home soon. I can’t wait to see you and Aai,” his son said, his voice filled with affection.

Ramesh’s heart leapt with joy upon hearing this news. He decided to celebrate by offering a free rental of the yellow umbrella for the rest of the day. Tourists and locals alike huddled under the umbrella as the rain poured down, creating an impromptu community of strangers brought together by their shared desire to stay dry.

Among them was Sofia, an elderly woman with a gentle smile, who had been visiting Goa for years. She had seen the yellow umbrella before and felt its magic drawing her towards it. “May I sit here, young man?” she asked Ramesh, her eyes gleaming with gratitude. “Of course, Aunty! It’s all yours,” Ramesh replied, touched by her sweetness.

As they sat together, Sofia shared stories of her adventures and the beautiful memories she had made on this very beach. Her tales spanned decades and touched the hearts of everyone sitting under the yellow umbrella that day. They listened, captivated by her words, and realized that life was about embracing every moment, just like Sofia had done throughout her life.

As the sun dipped below the horizon, the rain ceased, leaving behind a sense of tranquillity. Sofia bid farewell to the yellow umbrella, and Ramesh knew that this day had been a gift not just for him but for everyone present.

The tourist season continued, and more stories unfolded under the yellow umbrella. Each person who rented it left a piece of their heart behind, and Ramesh cherished every interaction. From newfound friendships to profound realizations and rekindled love, the yellow umbrella was a witness to it all.

As the season drew to a close, Ramesh felt a sense of bittersweet happiness. The yellow umbrella had brought him joy, new friends, and a deeper appreciation for the beauty of life. It had become more than just a means of income; it was now a symbol of hope, love, and human connection.

With a grateful heart, Ramesh carefully folded the yellow umbrella, ready to store it away until the next tourist season. As he looked out at the sea, he knew that its magic would live on forever, etched in the hearts of those who had shared their stories under its bright and colourful canopy.

In My Hands Today…

Stalin’s Wine Cellar – John Baker and Nick Place

In the late 1990s, John Baker was known as a purveyor of quality rare and old wines. Always entrepreneurial and up for adventure, he was the perfect person for an occasional business partner to approach with a mysterious wine list that was foreign to anything John, or his second-in-command, Kevin Hopko, had ever come across.

The list was discovered to be a comprehensive catalogue of the wine collection of Nicholas II, the last Tsar of Russia. The wine had become the property of the state after the Russian Revolution of 1918, during which Nicholas and his entire family were executed. Now owned by Stalin, the wine was discreetly removed to a remote Georgian winery when Stalin was concerned the advancing Nazi army might overrun Russia, and inevitably loot artefacts and treasures. Half a century later, the wine was rumoured to be hidden underground and off any known map.

John and Kevin embarked on an audacious, colourful and potentially dangerous journey to Georgia to discover if the wines actually existed; if the bottles were authentic and whether the entire collection could be bought and transported to a major London auction house for sale.

Stalin’s Wine Cellar is a wild, sometimes rough ride in the glamorous world of high-end wine. From Double Bay Sydney to Tbilisi Georgia, via the streets of Paris, the vineyards of Bordeaux and iconic Château d’Yquem. A multimillion dollar cellar and a breathtaking collection of wine (and one very expensive broken bottle) is the elusive treasure. The cast of characters include Stalin, Hitler, Tsar Nicholas II and a motley bunch of Georgian businessmen/cowboys toting handguns, in the early days of Russian business development that led to the world of Putin and oligarchs.

Recipes: Sev Tamatar ki Sabzi or Sev Tameta nu Shaak

For viewers of Tarak Mehta ka Ulta Chashmah, this recipe will be a familiar one. I ate this a long time ago when I was in school and then used to hear about it in shows and online. I was chatting with a friend the other day and she mentioned she had recently made the dish and I had cravings to make it. This is a fairly easy dish to make and from start to end, will not take more than 20-30 minutes, depending on the quantity you are making.

From the heartlands of Gujarat, this sabzi blends the sweetness and tartness of tomatoes with the crunch of savoury sev. Legend has it that the recipe originated in the kitchen of a Gujarati household, where the homemaker sought to create a delightful dish using the bounty of tomatoes from her garden. Faced with an abundant harvest, she combined tomatoes, spices, and a handful of sev to fashion a dish that was an instant hit with her family and the recipe soon spread like wildfire across the state. Today, this dish is a staple in Gujarati households, for its taste and ease of making from ingredients commonly found in an Indian kitchen. And because this does not use onions or garlic, this can be made even on festive days when you won’t use these ingredients. So let’s start making this yummy dish.

Sev Tameta nu Shaak or Sev Tamatar ki Sabzi

Ingredients:

  • 3 large ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
  • 1 cup sev or fried gram flour vermicelli
  • 2 tbsp oil
  • 1 tsp mustard seeds
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • ¼ tsp asafoetida
  • 1 tbsp ginger and green chilli paste
  • ½ tsp turmeric powder
  • 1 tsp red chilli powder (adjust to taste)
  • 1 tsp coriander powder
  • 1 tsp cumin powder
  • Salt to taste
  • 2 tbsp jaggery or sugar
  • 1 cup water
  • Fresh coriander leaves to garnish

Method:

  • Heat oil in a pan over medium heat. Add mustard seeds, cumin seeds and asafoetida, letting them sizzle for a few seconds.
  • Then add the ginger and chilli paste and let it cook for a few seconds.
  • Add the finely chopped tomatoes to the pan and cook until they turn soft and mushy, stirring occasionally.
  • Reduce the heat to low and add turmeric powder, red chilli powder, coriander powder, cumin powder, and salt. Mix well and cook for 2-3 minutes.
  • Pour in the water and add jaggery or sugar. Stir until the jaggery dissolves completely.
  • Allow the curry to simmer on low heat for 5-7 minutes, allowing the flavours to meld together.
  • Add half the sev to the tomatoes and gently mix to coat the sev with the sauce.
  • Turn off the heat and garnish with fresh coriander leaves.
  • Just before serving, add the balance sev, so that there is still a crunch to the dish and serve hot with roti.

Notes: Don’t use the nylon sev used for bhelpuri and other chaat, instead use the thicker ones. This will mean that the sev does not dissolve in the sabzi and there is a bite. I also like to keep some sev separate so that as you dish it up, you add it as a garnish.