Festivals of India – Jallikattu

Posted on January 16, 2023 by memoriesandsuch

Jallikattu, also known as Eru Thazhuvuthal and Mañcuvirattu, is a traditional event during the Pongal festival in which a bull, of the Pulikulam or Kangayam breeds, is released into a crowd of people, and multiple human participants attempt to grab the large hump on the bull’s back with both arms and hang on to it while the bull attempts to escape. Participants hold the hump for as long as possible, attempting to bring the bull to a stop. In some cases, participants must ride long enough to remove flags on the bull’s horns. Jallikattu is typically practised in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu as a part of Pongal celebrations on Mattu Pongal day, which occurs annually in January. The most popular Jallikattu is the one celebrated at Alanganallur near Madurai.

Ancient Tamil Sangams described the practice as yeru thazhuvuthal or bull embracing. The modern term jallikattu or sallikattu is derived from salli or coins and kattu or package, which refers to a prize of coins that are tied to the bull’s horns and that participants attempt to retrieve. Mancu virattu means bull chasing.

Jallikattu has been known to be practised during the Tamil classical period between 400 and 100 BC. It was common among the Ayar people who lived in the Mullai geographical division of the ancient Tamizh Nadu. Later, it became a platform for the display of bravery, and the prize money was introduced for participation encouragement. A seal from the Indus Valley civilization depicting the practice is preserved in the National Museum in New Delhi. A cave painting in white kaolin discovered near Madurai depicting a lone man trying to control a bull is estimated to be about 1,500 years old.

The popular myth revolving around this festival is about how Lord Shiva asked Basava, his bull, to convey two messages. This bull twisted the words of the messages and expressed them in another way. It is said that the bull was asked to tell the human beings on earth to take an oil bath every day and that food must be consumed only once a month for six months. Instead of this message, the bull conveyed that food must be consumed daily and oil baths must be taken only once a month. This debacle made Lord Shiva angry and he cursed the bull to aid humans in cultivating their land for all eternity.

Some variants of Jallikattu include the Vadi Manjuviratttu, the most common category of Jallikattu. Here, the bull is released from a closed space or Vadi vasal and the contestants attempt to wrap their arms or hands around the hump of the bull and hold on to it to win the award. Only one person is allowed to attempt at a time. This variant is most common in the districts of Madurai, Theni, Thanjavur, and Salem. In Veli Virattu, the approach is slightly different as the bull is directly released into open ground. The rules are the same as that of Vadi Majuvirattu and this is a popular variant in the districts of Sivagangai and Madurai. In the Vatam Manjuvirattu, the bull is tied with a 15 m rope where a vatam means a circle in Tamil. There are no other physical restrictions for the bull and hence it can move freely anywhere. The maximum time given is 30 minutes and a team of seven to nine members can attempt to untie the gift token that is tied to the bull’s horn.

Bulls enter the competition area through a gate called the vadi vasal. Typically, participants must only hold onto the bull’s hump. In some variations, they are disqualified if they hold onto the bull’s neck, horns or tail. There may be several goals to the game depending on the region. In some versions, contestants must either hold the bull’s hump for 30 seconds or 15 m. If the contestant is thrown by the bull or falls, they lose. Some variations only allow for one contestant. If two people grab the hump, then neither person wins. Bulls for Jallikatu are bred specifically and bulls that participate successfully in jallikattu are used as studs for breeding and also fetch higher prices in the markets.

With the introduction of the Regulation of Jallikattu Act, 2009, by the Tamil Nadu legislature, before the event, a written permission is obtained from the respective collectors, thirty days before the event along with the notification of the event location. The arena and the way through which the bulls pass are double-barricaded, to avoid injuries to spectators and bystanders who may be permitted to remain within the barricades. The gallery areas are built up along the double barricades and necessary permissions are obtained from the collector for the participants and the bulls fifteen days prior. Final preparations before the event includes complete testing by the authorities of the Animal Husbandry Department, to ensure that performance-enhancement drugs, liquor or other irritants are not used on the bulls.

Incidents of injury and death associated with the sport, both to participants and animals forced into it, animal rights organisations have called for a ban on the sport, resulting in the court banning it several times over the past years. However, with protests from the people against the ban, a new ordinance was made in 2017 to continue the sport.

Between 2008 and 2020, more than 70 people died and about 10 4 bulls were killed in Jallikattu events. Animal welfare concerns are related to the handling of the bulls before they are released and also during competitors’ attempts to subdue the bull. Practices, before the bull is released, include prodding the bull with sharp sticks or scythes, extreme bending of the tail which can fracture the vertebrae, and biting the bull’s tail. There are also reports of the bulls being forced to drink alcohol to disorient them, or chilli peppers being rubbed in their eyes to aggravate the bull. During attempts to subdue the bull, they are stabbed by various implements such as knives or sticks, punched, jumped on and dragged to the ground. In variants in which the bull is not enclosed, they may run into traffic or other dangerous places, sometimes resulting in broken bones or death. Protestors claim that Jallikattu is promoted as bull taming, however, others suggest it exploits the bull’s natural nervousness by deliberately placing them in a terrifying situation in which they are forced to run away from the competitors which they perceive as predators and the practice effectively involves catching a terrified animal. Along with human injuries and fatalities, bulls themselves sometimes sustain injuries or die, which people may interpret as a bad omen for the village.

Animal welfare organisations such as the Federation of Indian Animal Protection Organisations or FIAPO and PETA India have protested against the practice. The former Indian Minister of Women and Child Development, Maneka Gandhi denied the claim by Jallikattu aficionados that the sport is only to demonstrate the Tamil love for the bull, citing that the Tirukkural does not sanction cruelty to animals.

The Jallikattu Premier League is a professional league in Tamil Nadu for Jallikattu. The league was announced on 24 February 2018, to be organised in Chennai by the Tamil Nadu Jallikattu Peravai and the Chennai Jallikattu Amaippu. Kabaddi is usually played as a warm-up sport before the players enter the arena for Jallikattu.

Travel Bucket List: India – Delhi Part 2

Posted on January 11, 2023 by memoriesandsuch

Iron Pillar
Located in the Qutb Minar complex, the Iron Pillar is a 7.21 m high structure with a 41 cm diameter that was constructed by Chandragupta II who reigned between 375 and 415. Made of wrought iron, it is famous for the rust-resistant composition of the metals used in its construction. The pillar weighs more than 6 tonnes and is thought to have been erected elsewhere, perhaps outside the Udayagiri Caves, and moved to its present location by Anangpal Tomar in the 11th century. Recent studies suggest that the rust-resistant nature of the monument is due to a thin layer of crystalline iron hydrogen phosphate hydrate forming on the high-phosphorus-content iron, which serves to protect it from the effects of the humid climate and weather conditions.

The oldest inscription on the pillar is that of a king named Chandra, generally identified as the Gupta emperor Chandragupta II. The pillar was installed as a trophy during the building of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque and the Qutb complex by Sultan Iltutmish in the 13th century. The top tip of the pillar is bell-shaped with a bulb-patterned base. The entire edifice rests on an elevated stone platform circumferenced by a fence of metal bars, which was constructed in 1997 to prevent visitors from touching it. A deep socket at the tip of the pillar suggests that probably an image of the mythological bird Garuda was fixed into it as it was common during the time of its construction.

According to the inscription of King Chandra, the pillar was erected at Vishnupadagiri or Vishnupada which is identified as Mathura, because of its proximity to Delhi and the city’s reputation as a Vaishnavite pilgrimage centre. However, archaeological evidence indicates that during the Gupta period, Mathura was a major centre of Buddhism, although Vaishnavism may have existed there. Also, Mathura lies in plains, and only contains some small hillocks and mounds, there is no true giri or hill in Mathura.

Based on paleographic similarity to the dated inscriptions from Udayagiri, the Gupta-era iconography, analysis of metallurgy and other evidence, it has been theorized that the iron pillar was originally erected at the Udayagiri Caves. The key point in favour of placing the iron pillar at Udayagiri is that this site was closely associated with Chandragupta and the worship of Vishnu in the Gupta period. In addition, there are well-established traditions of mining and working iron in central India, documented particularly by the iron pillar at Dhar and local placenames like Lohapura and Lohangī Pīr. The king of Delhi, Iltutmish, is known to have attacked and sacked Vidisha in the thirteenth century and this would have allowed him to remove the pillar as a trophy to Delhi, just as the Tughluq rulers brought the Asokan pillars to Delhi in the 1300s.

The iron pillar is open daily between 10 am and 5 pm and entry fees for Indians is INR 10, while foreigners need to pay INR 250.

National War Memorial
Built to honour soldiers of the Indian Armed Forces, the National War Memorial is a national monument is spread over 40 acres of land around the existing chhatri or canopy near India Gate. The names of armed forces personnel killed during the armed conflicts with Pakistan and China as well as the 1961 war in Goa, Operation Pawan, and other operations such as Operation Rakshak are inscribed on the memorial walls in golden letters.

The memorial wall is flushed with the ground and was completed in January 2019 and unveiled on 25 February 2019. The old Amar Jawan Jyoti, located at India Gate, previously served as the national war memorial. The flame from the old Amar Jawan Jyoti was merged with the flame at the new National War Memorial on 21 January 2022 by Integrated Defence Staff chief.

Based on the design of a Chennai-based architectural firm, the National War Memorial has four concentric circles and a central obelisk, at the bottom of which burns an eternal flame representing the immortal soldier or the amar jawan. The concentric circles are designed as a Chakravyuh, an ancient Indian war formation. From the innermost to outermost, the Amar Chakra or Circle of Immortality is a an eternal flame continuously burning under the main obelisk at the centre of the monument. The flame symbolises the immortality of the spirit of fallen soldiers and the promise that the Nation will never forget their sacrifices. The second circle or the Veerta Chakra aka the Circle of Bravery depicts the bravery of Indian forces in the form of a covered gallery that exhibit six murals crafted in bronze depicting valiant battle actions of the Indian Armed Forces. The battles showcased here are the Battles of Gangasagar, Longewala, Tithwal, Rizangla, Operation Meghdoot, and Operation Trident. The Tyag Chakra or Circle of Sacrifice are circular concentric walls of honour, which symbolise the ancient war formation or the Chakravyuh. The walls are clad with granite tablets where an independent granite tablet is dedicated to each soldier who has made the supreme sacrifice in the battlefield, where his name is etched in golden letters along with the details of Rank. The outermost circle is the Rakshak Chakra or the Circle of Protection which is made of rows of trees as a reassurance to the citizens of the country about their safety against any threat, with each tree representing the soldiers who ensure the territorial integrity of the Nation, round the clock. The Param Yodha Sthal houses the busts of all the 21 recipients of the Param Vir Chakra, India’s highest military honour.

A National War Museum will be constructed in the adjoining Princess Park area and will be connected to the memorial through an underground tunnel. The Princess Park is a 14-acres large area north of India Gate, with barrack-like accommodations built during World War II. Since 1947, it has served as family accommodation for mid-level armed forces officers posted in the Service Headquarters in New Delhi. Entry is free at the memorial which is open between 9 am to 6:30 pm during the winter months of November to March and between 9 am and 7:30 pm during summer from April to October.

Rajpath
Officially known as Kartavya Path, Rajpath is a ceremonial boulevard that runs from Rashtrapati Bhavan on Raisina Hill through Vijay Chowk and India Gate, National War Memorial to the National Stadium. It used to be known as Kingsway during the British colonial rule. Considered to be one of the most important roads in India, it is where the annual Republic Day parade takes place on 26 January. Janpath, meaning People’s Way crosses the road. Rajpath runs in east-west direction. Roads from Connaught Place, the financial centre of Delhi, run into Rajpath from north. After climbing Raisina Hill, Rajpath is flanked by the North and South Blocks of the Secretariat Building. Finally it ends at the gates of Rashtrapati Bhavan. At Vijay Chowk it crosses Sansad Marg, and the Parliament House of India can be seen to the right when coming from the India Gate. It is also used for the funeral processions of key political leaders of India.

In 1911 when the British Imperial Government determined that the capital of the British Indian Empire should be moved from Calcutta to Delhi, construction began on New Delhi, which would serve as the purpose-built administrative capital of the Indian Empire which was designed and constructed by Sir Edwin Lutyens. Lutyens conceived of a modern imperial city centred around a ceremonial axis, such axis being the large boulevard known today as Rajpath. Most of the buildings surrounding the Rajpath were designed by Lutyens and the second architect of the project, Sir Herbert Baker.

When built, the road was named King’s Way, or Kingsway, in honour of the Emperor of India George V, who had visited Delhi during the Durbar of 1911, and where the Emperor formally proclaimed the decision to move the capital. Rajpath was built to provide an unhindered view of Delhi, as Lutyens wanted to have a panoramic sight from the Viceroy’s palace. Following India’s independence, the road’s name was translated to Hindi, Rajpath. In September 2022, Rajpath was redeveloped under Central Vista Redevelopment Project and renamed Kartavya Path.

Landmarks in the vicinity of Rajpath include the Rashtrapati Bhavan, the official residence of the President of India, North Block and South Block, also called the Secretariat Building which includes the Prime Ministers Office. Other buildings include Vijay Chowk is a spacious plaza and the site of Beating the Retreat ceremony, which takes place on 29 January each year, which marks the end of Republic Day celebrations, India Gate and the National War Memorial.

Rashtrapati Bhavan
After the decision to move Imperial India’s capital from Calcutta to Delhi was taken in 1911, about 4,000 acres of land was acquired to begin the construction of the Viceroy’s House, as it was originally called, and the adjacent Secretariat Building between 1911 and 1916 by relocating the Raisina and Malcha villages that existed there.

British architect Edwin Landseer Lutyens, a major member of the city-planning process, was given the primary architectural responsibility. Lutyens’ design is grandly classical overall, with colours and details inspired by Indian architecture. The original plan was to have Viceroy’s House on the top of Raisina Hill, with the secretariats lower down. It was later decided to build it 400 yards back and put both buildings on top of the plateau.

Lutyens travelled between India and England almost every year for twenty years and worked on the construction of the Viceroy’s House in both countries. The gardens were initially designed and laid out in Mughal style by William Robert Mustoe who was influenced by Lady Hardinge who in turn had sought inspiration in the book by Constance Villiers-Stuart in her Gardens of the Great Mughals.

When Chakravarti Rajagopalachari assumed office as the first Indian-born Governor General of India and became the occupant of this palace, he preferred to stay in a few rooms in the former Guest Wing, which is now the family wing of the President; he converted the then Viceroy’s apartments into the Guest Wing, where visiting heads of state stay while in India. On 26 January 1950, when Rajendra Prasad became the first President of India and occupied this building, it was renamed Rashtrapati Bhavan or the President’s House.

Consisting of four floors and 340 rooms, with a floor area of 200,000 sq ft, Rashtrapati Bhavan was was built using 1 billion bricks and 3,000,000 cu ft of stone with little steel. The design of the building fell into the Edwardian Baroque period, a time when emphasis was placed on the use of heavy classical motifs to emphasise power and imperial authority.

Various Indian elements were added to the building, including several circular stone basins on top of the building and a traditional Indian chujja or chhajja, which occupied the place of a frieze in classical architecture. This was a sharp, thin, protruding element that extended 8 ft from the building, and created deep shadows blocking harsh sunlight from the windows and also shielding the windows from heavy rain during the monsoon season. On the roofline were several chuttris, which helped to break up the flatness of the roofline not covered by the dome. Lutyens appropriated some Indian design elements but used them sparingly and effectively throughout the building.

Lutyens added several small personal elements to the house, such as an area in the garden walls and two ventilator windows on the stateroom to look like the glasses which he wore. The Viceregal Lodge was completed largely by 1929, and along with the rest of New Delhi, was inaugurated officially in 1931. The building took seventeen years to complete and eighteen years later India became independent.

The premises of the Rashtrapati Bhavan has been divided into three circuits and can be accessed by an authorised visitor at specific time slots over the day. The first one is the Main Building and Central Lawn, where you can spectate the architecture firsthand. The second circuit is the Rashtrapati Bhawan Museum complex, which has several buildings within its perimeter. The third circuit comprises the marvellous Mughal Gardens.

Among the various rooms, the Darbar Hall and Ashoka Hall are the most prominent. The Durbar Hall is situated directly under the double dome of the main building and was known as the Throne Room before independence. Today, there is a single high chair for the President under a Belgian glass chandelier. The room has a capacity of 500 people and it is here that Jawaharlal Nehru took the oath of the office of Prime Minister from Lord Mountbatten at 8.30 am on 15 August 1947. Ashoka Hall is a rectangular room originally built as a state ballroom with wooden flooring. The Persian painting on its ceiling depicts a royal hunting expedition led by King Fateh Ali Shah of Persia. The walls have fresco paintings.

The Swami Vivekanand Garden is a Mughal Garden situated at the back of the Rashtrapati Bhavan and incorporates both Mughal and English landscaping styles and features a great variety of flowers. The Rashtrapati Bhavan gardens are open to the public in February every year. Two channels intersecting at right angles running in the cardinal directions divide the main garden into a grid of squares or a charbagh. There are six lotus-shaped fountains at the crossings of these channels which function as reflecting pools. The terrace garden has two longitudinal strips at a higher level on each side of the Main Garden, forming the Northern and Southern boundaries. At the centre of both of the strips is a fountain, which falls inwards, forming a well. On the Western tips are located two gazebos and on the Eastern tips are two ornately designed sentry posts. The Long Garden or the Purdah Garden is located to the west of the Main Garden, and runs along each side of the central pavement which goes to the circular garden. Enclosed in walls about 12 feet high, this is predominantly a rose garden with 16 square rose beds encased in low hedges. Around the circular garden, there are rooms for the office of the horticulturist, a greenhouse, stores and a nursery. The Mughal Gardens opens for general public viewing in February–March every year during Udyanotsav.

In July 2014, a museum inside Rashtrapati Bhavan was inaugurated by the then President, Pranab Mukherjee. The museum helps visitors to get an inside view of the Rashtrapati Bhavan, its art, and architecture and get educated about the lives of past presidents. The second phase was inaugurated in 2016.

The Rashtrapati Bhavan is open between 9 am and 4 pm. Circuit 1 is open on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays while Circuit 2 is open on all days of the week except Mondays and Circuit 3 is open between August to March on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Entry to Rashtrapati Bhavan is through Gates No. 2, 7, 38. Indian citizens are required to carry valid photo ID Cards while foreign tourists need to submit photocopies of their passports and are required to carry their original passports for identification on the day of the visit.

Agrasen ki Baoli
Also known as Ugrasen Ki Baoli, Agrasen Ki Baoli or the Well of Agrasen is a 60-meter long and 15-meter wide historical step well. A historical monument located on Hailey Road near Connaught Place, it has been designated a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India. Water temples and temple step wells were built in ancient India with the earliest forms of step wells and reservoirs built in India in places like Dholavira as far back as the Indus Valley civilisation.

Although there are no known historical records to prove who built the stepwell, it is believed that it was originally built by the legendary King Agrasen, and the present architecture hints at it being rebuilt in the 14th century during the Tughlag or Lodi period of the Delhi Sultanate.

Agrasen ki Baoli is unique in its structure as its shape is quite different from the traditional round shape of reservoirs that existed in Delhi during that time. Built over a series of 108 steps, the baoli gradually descends into the ground. These steps are built over three levels, each of which serves as a landing where people can rest and relax. Each level is lined with arched niches on both sides. These levels are in turn akin to arched stone carvings that lie in beautiful symmetry with each other. The style of its architecture indicates that it was rebuilt during the Tughlaq period. The well is 15 metres wide and 60 metres long and the lower parts of the baoli can be seen submerged in water on some occasions. There is a mosque located on its South-Western Side which stands on four pillars with a heavy stone on the roof. Although the roof of the mosque has fallen in, the columns of the same are still present and have Buddhist-chaitya carvings adorning them. These sandstone pillars stand out in comparison to the general design of the mosque.

It is believed that the well was built by King Agrasen around the time of Mahabharata and was rebuilt and reconstructed by the Aggarwals in the 14th century which traces its origin to Maharaja Agrasen. The alcoves of the Baoli were also used for rituals and religious ceremonies.

Agrasen ki Baoli is quite famous for urban legends of hauntings and incidents. Legend has it that the reservoir was once filled with mystical dark waters that compelled people to jump in to commit suicide. Today, it is said that the place casts an evil spell on visitors that stay over at this destination after dusk. The presence of nocturnal beings such as bats and owls only elevates the bizarre quotient of this place.

The Baoli is open daily from 9 am to 5:30 pm and there is no entry fee to access the step well.

Ghalib ki Haveli
Ghalib ki Haveli or Ghalib’s Mansion was the residence of the 19th- century Urdu poet Mirza Ghalib and is today now a heritage site located in Old Delhi and reflects the period when the Mughal era was on the decline in India. The house was given to him by a physician named Hakim, who is believed to be an enthusiast of his poetry. After the poet died in 1869, Hakim used to sit there every evening, not allowing anyone to enter the mansion.

The Haveli offers an insight into the Mirza Ghalib’s lifestyle and the architecture of the Mughal era. The large compound with columns and bricks is the reminiscence of the Mughal Empire in Delhi. The walls are adorned with a huge portrait of the poet and some of his couplets are hung around the side walls. After the Haveli was taken over by the government, it was made into a permanent memorial museum housing objects related to the poet and his times. It also houses various handwritten poems by the poet beside his books. The museum also houses a life-size replica of the poet in a realistic setting with a hookah in his hand. Portraits of Ustaad Zauq, Abu Zafar, Momin, and other noted contemporaries of Ghalib can also be seen. Another wall throws light on Ghalib’s favourite things like his attire and costumes. There is another poster that lists his favourite dishes and another chart that lists his interests and hobbies. In addition, there is a single-door protected room in the haveli that has the only photograph that was ever taken of Ghalib. There are also other pictures and portraits of the poet. Aside from that, there are handwritten letters, couplets and utensils, and accessories like hookah.

Ghalib lived in this Haveli for a long time after moving to Delhi from Agra. While staying at here, he wrote his Urdu and Persian diwans. Until 1999, the Haveli housed shops until it was acquired by the government and renovated it using Mughal Lakhori bricks, sandstone & a wooden entrance gate to recreate the 19th century.

The Haveli has no entry fees as well as no charges for photography. It is open on all days from 11 am to 6 pm daily except Mondays. It is closed for lunch between 1:30 to 2 pm.

Alai Darwaza/Minar
Among the many historical monuments within the Qutb Minar complex, Alai Minar stands apart as it has been left incomplete. The construction was started by the Ilbari ruler Alauddin Khilji as a project to build a minar higher than the Qutb Minar. After winning the Deccan war, he indulged in making modifications to the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque within the same complex. Once the mosque was doubled in size, Khilji proceeded to construct the highest tower as a mark of his prowess and victory. It serves as the southern gateway of the mosque and is located in the southern part of the Qutb complex. However, the minar was left incomplete as Khilji died in 1316, soon after the construction of the tower began. The complete description of the Khilji’s intentions and the construction of the tower is mentioned in Amir Khusro’s book, Tarikh-e-Alai.

Alai Darwaza Minar was designed to be two times higher than the Qutb Minar and is well-proportioned with the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque. The idea was however abandoned and today, the building is an 80 feet high, mammoth rubble masonry, finished only up to one storey. The unhewn structure stands bare and suggests the creator’s intentions to be adorned with dressed stones and fancy architecture. The construction was not taken up by the descendants of the Khilji dynasty and eventually the minar was left unaddressed and neglected. But, even though in a derelict and a decrepit state, the monument resonates with the majesty and the magnificence of the bygone era.

The Alai Darwaza is made up of a single hall whose interior part measures 34.5 feet and the exterior part measures 56.5 feet. It is 60 feet tall and the walls are 11 feet thick. The height of the dome is 47 feet and is the first true dome built in India, as previous attempts to construct a true dome were not successful. The entire structure is made up of red sandstone with white coloured marble inlaid on the exterior walls. There is extensive Arabic calligraphy on the walls with horseshoe-shaped arches, the first time such arches were used in India. The facade has pre-Turkish carvings and patterns.

The Alai Minar/Darwaza is open between 10 am and 5 pm and Indians need to pay INR 10 to enter the monument while foreigners need to pay INR 250.

Bhuli Bhatiyari ka Mahal
Situated near Karol Bagh, Bhuli Bhatiyari ka Mahal is a ruined fort cum gateway structure that was originally built as a hunting lodge by Feroz Shah Tughlaq in the 14th century. The fort is infamous for its haunted stories and tales of paranormal activity. There are no locks or chains on the gate to the fort, but only a warning sign that says not to come here after sunset. Nestled in between a dense forest, the monument is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India. There is not a lot to explore except two courtyards and a few dilapidated rooms

The architecture of Bhuli Bhatiyari ka Mahal resembles another monument, the Malcha Mahal built by the Tughlaq Dynasty. The fort has two entrances and the facade is protected by bastions like in a fort. As one enters the dilapidated rubble masonry gate, it opens to a courtyard. The other cobbled gate also leads to the same courtyard. On the side, there are rooms built by the emperor and a flight of stairs leading to a semi-circular structure. There is also a newly made toilet in a corner that was built by Delhi Tourism.

It is believed that the Tughlaq Dynasty built this heritage fort in the 14th century as their hunting lodge. However, after it was abandoned by the Tughlaq Dynasty, it became the abode of the Sufi Saint Bu Ali Bakhtiyari and the name today is just a distorted version of the saint’s name. Another story says that a woman named Bhatiyari was from Rajasthan who lost her way and landed here in the ruins of the fort and so the fort came to be called the Bhuli Bhatiyari ka Mahal.

The area is infamous for its spooky atmosphere, and eerie ambience and there have been sightings of paranormal activities after sunset. According to a few people, there have seen a shadow of a woman lurking here at night. Therefore, no guard stays here after 5:30 pm. The area is barricaded by the police and entry is restricted. Some people claim that they saw a white wall here in the adjacent woods and photographed it. But when they went back and got the photographs developed, the wall was not in the photo, and they went back in search of the wall, but they could never find it.

Bhuli Bhatiyari ka Mahal is open between 8 am and 5:30 pm and entry is free.

Purana Qila
One of the oldest forts in Delhi, Purana Qila or Old Fort was built by the second Mughal Emperor Humayun and Surid Sultan Sher Shah Suri and is thought by many to be located on the site of the ancient city of Indraprastha built by the Pandava princes from the Mahabharata. It is believed that the fort was built on the assembly hall of Indraprastha. The fort formed the inner citadel of the city of Dinpanah and is today located near the expansive Pragati Maidan exhibition ground and is separated from the Dhyanchand Stadium by Mathura Road. Built on the banks of river Yamuna and spread over 1.5 km, the monument has tons of myths and legends attached to it. It is also believed that Emperor Humayun met his end by tumbling down the steps of his library within the fort. The fort has three entrances and is surrounded by a moat, which is now used for boating. Purana Qila and its environs flourished as the sixth city of Delhi. On 7 October 1556, the Hindu king Hem Chandra Vikramaditya, who had defeated Akbar’s forces at the Battle of Delhi was crowned in Purana Qila. The Mughals would one month later decisively defeat Hemu and his army at the second battle of Panipat.

Edwin Lutyens who designed the new capital of British India, New Delhi, in the 1920s, had aligned the central vista, now Rajpath, with Purana Qila. During the Partition of India, in August 1947 the Purana Qila along with the neighbouring Humayun’s Tomb became the site for refugee camps for Muslims migrating to newly founded Pakistan. During World War II, Purana Qila was one of the two civilian internment camps, the other being Deoli in the Rajasthan desert.

Purana Qila in recent years has been used for various important theatre productions, cultural events, and concerts. Today, it is the venue of a daily sound and light presentation after sunset, on the history of the Seven Cities of Delhi, from Indraprastha through New Delhi.

The walls of the fort rise to a height of 18 metres, traverse about 1.5 km, and have three arched gateways: the Bara Darwaza or the Big Gate facing west, which is still in use today; the south gate, also popularly known as the Humayun Gate, probably so known because it was constructed by Humayun, or perhaps because Humayun’s Tomb is visible from there; and lastly, the Talaqi Gate, often known as the forbidden gate. All the gates are double-storeyed sandstone structures flanked by two huge semi-circular bastion towers, decorated with white and coloured-marble inlays and blue tiles. They are replete with detailing, including ornate overhanging balconies, or jharokhas, and are topped by pillared pavilions or chhatris, all features that are reminiscent of Rajasthani architecture as seen in the North and South Gates, and which were amply repeated in future Mughal architecture. Despite the grandeur of the exterior, few interior structures have survived except the Qila-i Kuhna Mosque and the Shermandal, both credited to Sher Shah.

The single-domed Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque, built by Sher Shah in 1541 is an excellent example of a pre-Mughal design and an early example of the extensive use of the pointed arch in the region as seen in its five doorways with the true horseshoe-shaped arches. It was designed as a Jami Mosque or Friday mosque for the Sultan and his courtiers. The prayer hall inside, the single-aisled mosque, measures 51.20m by 14.90m and has five elegant arched prayer niches or mihrabs set in its western wall. Marble in shades of red, white and slate is used for the calligraphic inscriptions on the central iwan, marking a transition from Lodhi to Mughal architecture. At one time, the courtyard had a shallow tank, with a fountain. A second storey, accessed through staircases from the prayer hall, with a narrow passage running along the rectangular hall, provided space for female courtiers to pray, while the arched doorway on the left wall, framed by ornate jharokas, was reserved for members of the royal family. Today it is the best-preserved building in Purana Qila.[20][21]

The Sher Mandal was named for Sher Shah who had tried to finish what was ordered by Babur but had died during the initial phase and so construction was halted until the arrival of Humayun. This double-storeyed octagonal tower of red sandstone with steep stairs leading up to the roof was intended to be higher than its existing height. Its original builder was Babur who ordered the construction and was used as a personal observatory and library for his son Humayun, finished only after he recaptured the fort. It is also one of the first observatories of Delhi, the earliest being in Pir Ghaib at Hindu Rao at Ridge built in the 14th century by Firoz Shah Tughlaq. The tower is topped by an octagonal chhatri supported by eight pillars and decorated with white marble in the typical Mughal style. Inside, there are remnants of the decorative plaster-work and traces of stone shelving where, presumably, the emperor’s books were placed. This was also where on 24 January 1556 Humayun fell from the second floor to his death. He slipped while hastening to the evening prayers, following his hobby of astronomical star gazing at the top of this private observatory. He fell headlong down the stairs and died of his injuries two days later. Entry inside the library is now prohibited.

The museum at Purana Qila houses the many specimens excavated from the fort site by the Archaeological Survey of India. The exhibits include painted grey ware dating back to 1500 BC, various pottery and objects from the ancient empires of Kushana, Rajputs, Delhi Sultanate and the Mughals.

Several other monuments like Kairul Manzil, the mosque built by Maham Anga, Akbar’s foster mother, and which was later used as a madrasa lie around the complex. Sher Shah Suri Gate or Lal Darwaza, which was the southern gate to Shergarh, also lies opposite the Purana Qila complex. The Step Well is a rectangular well situated within the premises with a few steps with the Hammam next to it, possibly the bathing place for the royal ladies. The Kunti Devi Temple, a small shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva is also located inside the premises. Legend says that the temple was established by the Pandavas and belonged to their mother, Kunti. The two Bhairon temples outside the complex are also said to have been by the Pandavas. Interestingly, alcohol is the preferred offering for the Bhairon temple.

The the fort hosts a light and sound show on the journey of Delhi from the Mughal Era to modern-day Delhi, aptly named Ishq- e- Dilli. It showcases the seven cities of Delhi, starting with the 11th century Delhi and covers the myth of Mahabharata and Indraprastha as well and brings the viewer to today. The Hindi show is between 7:30 to 8:30 pm while the English show is between 9 and 10 pm. The show runs daily except Fridays and tickets are priced at INR 100 for adults and INR 50 for children between 3 to 12 years old. During the day, Purana Qila is open between 7 am and 5 pm and entry fees are INR 5 for Indians and INR 200 for foreigners. Videography is priced at INR 25.

Travel Bucket List: India – Delhi Part 1

Posted on January 9, 2023 by memoriesandsuch

The last state in my series about the various Indian states, Delhi, or officially the National Capital Territory or NCT of Delhi, is a city and a union territory of India containing New Delhi, the capital of India. Straddling the Yamuna river, primarily its western or right bank, Delhi shares borders with the state of Uttar Pradesh in the east and with the state of Haryana in the remaining directions. Delhi’s urban agglomeration, which includes the satellite cities of Ghaziabad, Faridabad, Gurgaon, and Noida in an area known as the National Capital Region (NCR), has an estimated population of over 28 million, making it the largest metropolitan area in India and the second-largest in the world, after Tokyo.

The topography of the medieval fort Purana Qila on the banks of the river Yamuna matches the literary description of the citadel Indraprastha in the Sanskrit epic Mahabharata; however, excavations in the area have revealed no signs of an ancient built environment. From the early 13th century until the mid-19th century, Delhi was the capital of two major empires, the Delhi sultanate and the Mughal Empire, which covered large parts of South Asia. All three UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the city, the Qutub Minar, Humayun’s Tomb, and the Red Fort, belong to this period. Delhi was the early centre of Sufism and Qawwali music and the names of Nizamuddin Auliya and Amir Khusrau are prominently associated with the city. The Khariboli dialect of Delhi was part of a linguistic development that gave rise to the literature of the Urdu language and then of Modern Standard Hindi.

Delhi was a major centre of the Indian Rebellion of 1857. In 1911, New Delhi, a southern region within Delhi, became the capital of the British Indian Empire. During the Partition of India in 1947, Delhi was transformed from a Mughal city to a Punjabi one, losing two-thirds of its Muslim residents, in part due to the pressure brought to bear by arriving Hindu refugees from western Punjab. After independence in 1947, New Delhi continued as the capital of the Dominion of India, and after 1950, the Republic of India.

Delhi has the second-highest GDP per capita in India after Goa and although a union territory, the political administration of the NCT of Delhi today more closely resembles that of a state of India, with its legislature, high court, and an executive council of ministers headed by a Chief Minister. New Delhi is jointly administered by the federal government of India and the local government of Delhi and serves as the capital of the nation as well as the NCT of Delhi.

There are several myths and legends associated with the origin of the name Delhi. One of them is derived from Dhillu or Dilu, a king who built a city at this location in 50 BC and named it after himself. Another legend holds that the name of the city is based on the Hindi or Prakrit word Dhili which means loose and that it was used by the Tomaras to refer to the city because the iron pillar of Delhi had a weak foundation and had to be moved. During the time of King Prithviraj, the name of the city was Dilpat, and Dilpat and Dilli are probably derived from the old Hindi word dil which means eminence which later became Dihli or Dehli. According to the Bhavishya Purana, King Prithiviraja of Indraprastha built a new fort in the modern-day Purana Qila area for the convenience of all four castes in his kingdom. He ordered the construction of a gateway to the fort and later named the fort Dehali with some historians believing that Dhilli or Dhillika is the original name for the city while others believe the name could be a corruption of the Hindustani words dehleez or dehali, both terms meaning threshold or gateway and are symbolic of the city as a gateway to the Gangetic Plain. The form Delhi, used in Latin script and strangely with an h following an l, originated under colonial rule and is a corrupt spelling based on the Urdu name of the city, Dehli.

Traditionally seven cities have been associated with the region of Delhi. The earliest, Indraprastha, is part of a literary description in the Mahabharata which was composed between 400 BCE to 200 CE but describes an earlier time which situates a city on a knoll on the banks of the river Yamuna. According to experts, the topographical description of the Mahabharata matches the area of Purana Qila, a 14th-century fort of the Delhi sultanate, but the analogy does not go much further. While the Mahabharata speaks of a beautifully decorated city with surrounding fortification, the excavations have yielded uneven findings of painted grey pottery characteristic of the eleventh century BC; no signs of a built environment, much fewer fortifications, have been revealed. The earliest architectural relics date back to the Maurya period, around 300 BC. In 1966, an inscription of the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka who ruled between 273–235 BC was discovered near Srinivaspuri. The remains of several major cities can be found in Delhi with the first of these in the southern part of present-day Delhi. King Anang Pal of the Tomara dynasty built Lal Kot and several temples in 1052 which was conquered by Vigraharaj Chauhan in the mid-12th century who renamed it Qila Rai Pithora.

After Prithviraj Chauhan’s defeat in 1192 in the second battle of Tarain by Muhammad Ghori, Qutb-ud-din Aibak, was given the responsibility of governing the conquered territories of India until Ghori returned to his capital, Ghor. When Ghori died without an heir in 1206, Qutb-ud-din assumed control of Ghori’s Indian possessions and laid the foundation of the Delhi Sultanate and the Mamluk dynasty. He began construction of the Qutb Minar and Quwwat-al-Islam or the Might of Islam mosque, the earliest extant mosque in India. His successor, Iltutmish consolidated the Turkic conquest of northern India. At 72.5 m, the Qutb Minar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site was completed during the reign of Sultan Illtutmish in the 13th century. Although its style has some similarities with the Jarkurgan minaret, it is more closely related to the Ghaznavid and Ghurid minarets of Central Asia. Razia, daughter of Iltutmish, became the Sultana of Delhi upon the former’s death.

For the next three hundred years, Delhi was ruled by a succession of Turkic and an Afghan, Lodi dynasty. They built several forts and townships that are part of the seven cities of Delhi and Delhi was a major centre of Sufism during this period. The Mamluk Sultanate was overthrown in 1290 by Jalal ud din Firuz Khalji and under the second Khalji ruler, Ala-ud-din Khalji, the Delhi sultanate extended its control south of the Narmada River in the Deccan. The Delhi sultanate reached its greatest extent during the reign of Muhammad bin Tughluq between 1325 and 1351. In an attempt to bring the whole of the Deccan under control, he moved his capital to Daulatabad, Maharashtra in central India. However, by moving away from Delhi he lost control of the north and was forced to return to Delhi to restore order. The southern provinces then broke away. In the years following the reign of Firoz Shah Tughlaq and the Delhi Sultanate rapidly began to lose its hold over its northern provinces. Delhi was captured and sacked by Timur in 1398, who massacred 100,000 captive civilians. Delhi’s decline continued under the Sayyid dynasty who ruled between 1414 and 1451, until the sultanate was reduced to Delhi and its hinterland. Under the Afghan Lodi dynasty between 1451 and 1526, the Delhi sultanate recovered control of Punjab and the Gangetic plain to once again achieve domination over Northern India. However, the recovery was short-lived and the sultanate was destroyed in 1526 by Babur, the founder of the Mughal dynasty.

In 1526, Babur a descendant of Genghis Khan and Timur, from the Fergana Valley in modern-day Uzbekistan invaded India, defeated the last Lodhi sultan in the First Battle of Panipat and founded the Mughal Empire that ruled from Delhi and Agra for more than three centuries, with a sixteen-year hiatus during the reigns of Sher Shah Suri and Hemu from 1540 to 1556. Shah Jahan built the seventh city of Delhi which bears his name Shahjahanabad, which served as the capital of the Mughal Empire from 1638 and is today known as the Old City or Old Delhi. After the death of Aurangzeb in 1707, the Mughal Empire’s influence declined rapidly as the Hindu Maratha Empire rose to prominence. In 1737, Maratha forces led by Baji Rao I sacked Delhi following their victory against the Mughals in the First Battle of Delhi. In 1739, the Mughal Empire lost the huge Battle of Karnal in less than three hours against the numerically outnumbered but militarily superior Persian army led by Nader Shah of Persia. After his invasion, he completely sacked and looted Delhi, carrying away immense wealth including the Peacock Throne, the Daria-i-Noor, and Koh-i-Noor. The Mughals, severely further weakened, could never overcome this crushing defeat and humiliation which also left the way open for more invaders to come, including eventually the British. Nader Shah eventually agreed to leave the city and India after forcing the Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah I to beg him for mercy and give him the keys to the city and the royal treasury. A treaty signed in 1752 made Marathas the protectors of the Mughal throne in Delhi. The city was sacked again in 1757 by the forces of Ahmad Shah Durrani, although it was not annexed by the Afghan Empire and was its vassal state under the Mughal emperor. Then the Marathas battled and won control of Delhi from the Mughals. By the end of the 18th century, Delhi had also come under the control of the Bharatpur State and the Sikh Empire.

In 1803, during the Second Anglo-Maratha War, the forces of the British East India Company defeated the Maratha forces in the Battle of Delhi. During the Indian Rebellion of 1857, Delhi fell to the forces of the East India Company after a bloody fight known as the Siege of Delhi. The city came under the direct control of the British Government in 1858 and was made a district province of Punjab. In 1911, it was announced that the capital of British-held territories in India was to be transferred from Calcutta to Delhi. The name New Delhi was given in 1927, and the new capital was inaugurated on 13 February 1931. New Delhi was officially declared the capital of the Union of India after the country gained independence on 15 August 1947. It has expanded since; the small part of it that was constructed during the British period has come to be informally known as Lutyens’ Delhi.

During the partition of India, around five lakh Hindu and Sikh refugees, mainly from West Punjab fled to Delhi, while around three lakh Muslim residents of the city migrated to Pakistan. Ethnic Punjabis are believed to account for at least 40% of Delhi’s total population and are predominantly Hindi-speaking Punjabi Hindus. Migration to Delhi from the rest of India continues, contributing more to the rise of Delhi’s population than the birth rate, which is declining.

Two prominent features of the geography of Delhi are the Yamuna flood plains and the Delhi Ridge. The Yamuna River was the historical boundary between Punjab and UP, and its flood plains provide fertile alluvial soil suitable for agriculture but are prone to recurrent floods. The Yamuna, a sacred river in Hinduism, is the only major river flowing through Delhi. The Hindon River separates Ghaziabad from the eastern part of Delhi. The Delhi ridge originates from the Aravalli Range in the south and encircles the west, northeast, and northwest parts of the city, reaching a height of 318 m and is a dominant feature of the region.

The National Capital Territory of Delhi covers an area of 1,483 sq km, of which 783 sq km are rural, and 700 sq km are urban, making it the largest city in terms of area in the country. According to the World Health Organization, WHO, Delhi was the most polluted city in the world in 2014 and downgraded the city to the eleventh-worst in 2016. The Archaeological Survey of India recognises 1,200 heritage buildings and 175 monuments as national heritage sites. Delhi witnesses extreme temperatures. While summers and winters are unbearable, monsoon restricts outdoor activities. The best months to visit Delhi are between February to April and August to November.

India Gate
Synonymous with Delhi, the All India War Memorial, popularly known as the India Gate, is located along the Rajpath on the eastern edge of the ceremonial axis of New Delhi, formerly called the duty path. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, the 42 meters tall gate evokes the architectural style of the memorial arch such as the Arch of Constantine, in Rome, and is often compared to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and the Gateway of India in Mumbai. One of the largest war memorials in the country, it is famous for hosting the Republic Day Parade every year when the Prime Minister visits the gate to pay their tributes to the Amar Jawan Jyoti, following which the Republic Day parade starts.

India Gate stands as a memorial to 84,000 soldiers of the British Indian Army who died between 1914 and 1921 in the First World War, in France, Flanders, Mesopotamia, Persia, East Africa, Gallipoli and elsewhere in the Near and the Far East, and the Third Anglo-Afghan War. 13,300 servicemen’s names, including some soldiers and officers from the United Kingdom, are inscribed on the gate. Following the Bangladesh Liberation war in 1972, a structure consisting of a black marble plinth with a reversed rifle, capped by a war helmet and bounded by four eternal flames, was built beneath the archway. This structure, called the Amar Jawan Jyoti or the Flame of the Immortal Soldier, has since 1971 served as India’s tomb of the unknown soldier. The memorial is guarded 24/7 by soldiers of the Indian Armed Forces. On 21 January 2022, the Amar Jawan Jyoti at India Gate was merged with the Amar Jawan Jyoti at the National War Memorial.

Though India gate is breathtaking at absolutely any hour of the day, its magnificence is even more during the hours after sunset. The gate is illuminated every evening from 7 to 9:30 pm and serves as one of Delhi’s most important tourist attractions.

Red Fort
Lal Qila or Red Fort is a historic fort in Old Delhi, that served as the main residence of the Mughal Emperors. Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned the construction of the Red Fort on 12 May 1638, when he decided to shift his capital from Agra to Delhi. Originally red and white, its design is credited to architect Ustad Ahmad Lahori, who also constructed the Taj Mahal. The fort represents the peak in Mughal architecture under Shah Jahan and combines Persianate palace architecture with Indian traditions.

The fort was plundered of its artwork and jewels during Nadir Shah’s invasion of the Mughal Empire in 1739 and most of the fort’s marble structures were subsequently demolished by the British following the Indian Rebellion of 1857. The fort’s defensive walls were largely undamaged, and the fortress was subsequently used as a garrison. The Red Fort was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007 as part of the Red Fort Complex.

On 15 August 1947, the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, raised the Indian flag above the Lahori Gate. Every year on India’s Independence Day, the Prime Minister hoists the Indian tricolour flag at the fort’s main gate and delivers a nationally broadcast speech from its ramparts.

Formerly known as Quila-e-Mubarak or the Blessed Fort, the Red Fort lies along the banks of the river Yamuna, whose waters fed the moats surrounding the fort. It was a part of the medieval city of Shahjahanabad, popularly known today as Old Delhi. The entire fort complex is said to represent the architectural creativity and brilliance of Mughal architecture. Today, the Archaeological Survey of India is responsible for the security and preservation of this monument.

The Red Fort is surrounded by a 2 km perimeter wall which acted as an effective defensive measure. The structure of the fort is octagonal, and it has several gates, the prominent ones being the Lahori Gate, the Ajmeri Gate, the Kashmiri Gate, the Mori Gate, the Turkman Gate, and the Delhi Gate. The most prominent structures inside the fort are the Diwan-i-Aam, the Diwan-i-Khaas, the Moti Masjid, and the Nahr-i-Bashisht or the stream of paradise. Also known as the Hall of Public Audience, the Diwan-i-Am is a rectangular hall consisting of three aisles, with a façade of nine arches. There were six marble palaces along the eastern waterfront originally. A waterchannel, called the Nahr-i-Bihisht runs through it, with an ivory fountain fitted with a central marble basin. The Mumtaz-Mahal now houses the Delhi Fort Museum. The Diwan-i-Khas or the Hall of Private Audience is a beautifully decorated pillared hall, with a flat ceiling supported by engrailed arches. The Peacock Throne is said to have been kept here before being taken away by Nadir Shah. The Hammam or Bath consists of three prime sections divided by corridors and is completely built of marble and inlaid with coloured stones. The Moti-Masjid or Pearl Mosque, which was added later by Aurangzeb is to the west of the Hamman. The red-stone pavilion in the middle of the tank in the centre of the Hayat-Bakhsh-Bagh is called the Zafar-Mahal and was built by Bahadur Shah II in about 1842. Most of these buildings were inlaid with precious stones and intricate floral motives. The unique cusped arches, highly intricate ornamentation and the double domes are the most important features of the Red Fort’s architecture, something which became a trademark of Shahjahani architecture. To contain the older Salimgarh Fort inside its boundaries, the walls were built asymmetrically, unlike any other Mughal buildings. The Red Fort remained the seat of Imperial Mughal Rule till 1857 when the Great Revolt took place.

The Fort saw its degradation after Aurangzeb’s rule. In 1712, Farrukhsiyar replaced the silver ceilings with copper and in 1739, the Persian Emperor Nadir Shah invaded Delhi and looted the Red Fort, taking away with himself the precious Peacock throne. The Fort was captured, plundered, and attacked several times between 1739 and 1857 by Ahmad Shah, the Marathas, the Sikhs, and the British. To raise funds for the defence of armies from Ahmad Shah Durrani, the Marathas sold the silver ceiling of Diwan-e-Khas in 1760. The last Mughal emperor, and last Mughal resident of the Fort, Bahadur Shah II was exiled to Burma after the revolt of 1857, ending the rule of the Mughals after two centuries.

The fort was then occupied by the British Colonial Rulers, who plundered many precious artefacts including the Kohinoor diamond, the Jade Wine Cup of Shah Jahan, and the crown of Bahadur Shah II. They planned a systematic destruction of the Fort which included the destruction of furniture, gardens, harem apartments, and servant quarters. Except for the white marble buildings, almost all of the inner structure was destroyed. In 1899, when Lord Curzon became the Viceroy of India, he ordered the reconstruction of the buildings and the gardens were also restored.

There is a Light and Sound Show which is held every evening except on Mondays and is a must-see for visitors to the capital. A one-hour visual extravaganza of light and sound inside the premises is the best way to learn about the history of the Fort. The show in Hindi takes place between 7:30 and 8:30 pm and in English between 9 and 10 pm. Ticket prices during weekdays are INR 60 for adults and INR 20 for children while during weekends and government holidays it is INR 80 for adults and INR 30 for children.

Qutub Minar
A victory tower, the Qutub Minar forms part of the Qutub complex, which lies at the site of Delhi’s oldest fortified city, Lal Kot, founded by the Tomar Rajputs. It was begun after the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, by Qutb-ud-din Aibak, the first ruler of the Delhi Sultanate. Built between 1199 and 1220, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Mehrauli and one of the most visited tourist spots in the city.

It can be compared to the 62-metre all-brick Minaret of Jam in Afghanistan, which was constructed a decade or so before the probable start of the Delhi tower. The surfaces of both are elaborately decorated with inscriptions and geometric patterns. The Qutb Minar has a shaft that is fluted with stalactite bracketing under the balconies at the top of each stage.

The Qutub Minar is a symbol of the synthesis of traditional Islamic architecture and Southwestern Asian design. The architecture of the minaret varies greatly from that of the typical style and design of the mosques constructed in the Middle East with the style heavily influenced by local architecture such as the Indic temples which in turn affected the materials, techniques, and decorations used in the construction of the Qutb Minar.

The Minar is surrounded by several historically significant monuments of the Qutb complex. The Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque, to the northeast of the Minar, was built by Qutub-ud-Din Aibak in 1198. It is the earliest extant mosque built by the Delhi Sultans. It consists of a rectangular courtyard enclosed by cloisters, erected with the carved columns and architectural members of 27 Jain and Hindu temples, which were demolished by Qutub-ud-Din Aibak as recorded in his inscription on the main eastern entrance. Later, a lofty arched screen was erected, and the mosque was enlarged, by Shams-ud- Din Itutmish and Ala-ud-Din Khalji. The Iron Pillar in the courtyard bears an inscription in Sanskrit in the Brahmi script of the fourth century, according to which the pillar was set up as a Vishnudhvaja or the standard of Lord Vishnu on the hill known as Vishnupada in memory of a mighty king named Chandra. The mosque complex is one of the earliest that survives in the Indian subcontinent.

The nearby pillared cupola known as Smith’s Folly is a remnant of the tower’s 19th-century restoration, which included an ill-advised attempt to add some more stories. Earthquakes damaged the Qutub Minar in 1505 and 1803 after which the tower was renovated in 1828 and a pillared cupola was installed over the fifth story, creating a sixth. The cupola was taken down in 1848, under instructions from Viscount Hardinge, who was the Governor General of India. at the time. It was reinstalled at ground level to the east of Qutb Minar, where it remains and is known as Smith’s Folly today.

The height of Qutb Minar is 72.5 m, making it the tallest minaret in the world built of bricks. The tower tapers, and has a 14.3 m base diameter, reducing to 2.7 m at the top of the peak. It contains a spiral staircase of 379 steps. At the foot of the tower is the Quwat Ul Islam Mosque. The Minar tilts just over 65 cm from the vertical, which is considered to be within safe limits.

There are many stories of the Qutb Minar which consists of five stories of red and grey sandstone. The lowest story, also known as the basement story, was completed during the lifetime of Ghiyeth al-Din Muhammad, a sultan during the Ghurid dynasty. It is revetted with twelve semicircular and twelve flanged pilasters that are placed in alternating order. This story is separated by flanges and by storied balconies, carried on Muqarnas corbels. The story is placed on top of a low circular plinth that is inscribed with a twelve-pointed star with a semicircle placed with each of the angles between the star’s points. There are also six horizontal bands with inscriptions inscribed in naskh, a style of Islamic calligraphy, on this story. The second, third, and fourth stories were erected by Sham ud-Din Iltutmish, the first Muslim sovereign to rule from Delhi, considered to be the first of the Delhi Sultan dynastic line. The second and third stories are also revetted with twelve semicircular and twelve flanged pilasters that are placed in alternating order. These red sandstone columns are separated by flanges and by storied balconies, carried on Muqarnas corbels. Before its reconstruction and reduction, the fourth story was also decorated with semicircular pilasters and was reconstructed in white marble and is relatively plain. In 1369, the fourth story was repaired after lightning struck the minaret. During reconstruction, Sultan Firuz Shah Tughlaq elected to reduce the size of the fourth story and then separated it into two stories.

Before 1976, the general public was allowed access to the first floor of the minaret, via the internal staircase. Access to the top was stopped after 2000 due to suicides. On 4 December 1981, the staircase lighting failed and between 300 and 400 visitors stampeded towards the exit, of which 45 were killed and some were injured, mostly schoolchildren. Since then, the tower has been closed to the public and rules regarding entry have been stringent. The Qutb Festival, held at the Qutb Minar during November/December is a three-day festival to celebrate the magnificence of the monument. Organized jointly by the Delhi Tourism and Transport Development Corporation and the Sahitya Kala Parishad, the festival includes cultural shows and art forms.

The Qutb Minar is open between 10 am to 5 pm every day except Sundays and has an entranc fee of INR 40 for Indians and those from SAARC and BIMSTEC countries while foreigners need to pay INR 600 to enter. Children up to the age of 15 with a valid ID enter free.

Jantar Mantar
Located on Parliament Street, Jantar Mantar which means the instruments for measuring the harmony of the heavens is a vast observatory built by Maharaja Jai Singh in 1724. It forms a part of a collection of five observatories located in Jaipur, Ujjain, Varanasi, and Mathura and consists of 13 architectural astronomy instruments.

At a height of 723 feet, the primary purpose of the observatory was to compile astronomical tables and to predict the times and movements of the sun, moon, and planets. The Delhi Jantar Mantar decayed considerably by the 1857 uprising. The Ram Yantra, the Samrat Yantra, the Jai Prakash Yantra, and the Misra Yantra are the four distinct instruments of the Jantar Mantar. The Samrat Yantra, or Supreme Instrument, is a giant triangle that is an equal-hour sundial. It is 70 feet high, 114 feet long at the base, and 10 feet thick. It has a 128-foot hypotenuse that is parallel to the Earth’s axis and points toward the North Pole. On either side of the triangle is a quadrant with graduations indicating hours, minutes, and seconds. At the time of the Samrat Yantra’s construction, sundials already existed, but the Samrat Yantra turned the basic hug sundial into a precision tool for measuring declination and other related coordinates of various heavenly bodies. The Vrihat Samrat Yantra can calculate the local time at an accuracy of up to two seconds and is considered the world’s largest sundial. The Jaya Prakash consists of hollowed-out hemispheres with markings on their concave surfaces. Crosswires were stretched between points on their rim. From inside the Ram, an observer could align the position of a star with various markings or a window’s edge. This is one of the most versatile and complex instruments that can give the coordinates of celestial objects in multiple systems- the Azimuthal-altitude system and the Equatorial coordinate system. This allowed for an easy conversation about the popular celestial system. The Rama Yantra has two large cylindrical structures with an open top used to measure the altitude of stars based on the latitude and the longitude on the earth. The Misra Yantra or the mixed instrument is a composition of 5 instruments designed as a tool to determine the shortest and longest days of the year. It could also be used to indicate the exact moment of noon in various cities and locations regardless of their distance from Delhi. The Misra yantra was able to indicate when it was noon in various cities all over the world and was the only structure in the observatory not invented by Jai Singh II. In the Shasthansa Yantra, using a pinhole camera mechanism that has been built within the towers that support the quadrant scales, can be used to measure specific measurements of the sun such as the zenith distance, declination, and diameter of the sun. Built on the same principle as the Jai Prakash, the instrument in the Kapala Yantra is used more as a demonstration to indicate the transformation of one coordinate system to another and is not used for active celestial observation. At the Rasivalya Yantra, twelve of these structures were built, each referring to the zodiacal constellations by measuring the latitude and longitude of a celestial object at the very moment the celestial object crosses the meridian.

The apparatus here pertains to Egypt’s Ptolemaic astronomy and follows three classical celestial coordinates to track the positions of heavenly bodies, namely the horizon zenith local system, the equatorial system, and the ecliptic system. There also lies a small temple dedicated to Lord Bhairava to the east of the main site built by Maharaja Jai Singh II. The Jantar Mantar is open between 6 am and 6 pm and entry fees for Indians and visitors from SAARC and BIMSTEC countries is INR 15 per person while foreigners pay INR 200 per person. Videography costs are INR 25 per camera.

Rajghat
Loosely translated to Royal Steps, Rajghat lies on the banks of the River Yamuna and is a memorial dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi. Originally the name of a historic ghat of Old Delhi or Shahjahanabad, it was the gate of the old walled city, opening at Raj Ghat to the west bank of the Yamuna River

Several other samadhis or cremation spots of other famous leaders can be found in the vicinity of Raj Ghat. Jawaharlal Nehru’s samadhi is to the north of the Rajghat and is known as the Shantivan meaning the garden of peace. Adjacent to Nehru’s memorial is Ekta Sthal, the site where Zail Singh, the 7th President of India, was cremated with full state honours in 2005.

The memorial at Rajghat is a humble black marble platform which is raised above the ground level and marks the spot of Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation and last rites on 31 January 1948, a day after his assassination. It also has his last words, Hey Ram inscribed on the platform. a day after his assassination. It is left open to the sky while an eternal flame burns at one end. A stone footpath flanked by lawns leads to the walled enclosure that houses the memorial. A prayer is held every Friday, the day he died at Rajghat.

At the Rajghat, one can also take a look at the National Gandhi Museum which has collections and artefacts relating to Mahatma Gandhi. There is a library with a collection of all that was written about or by him and has over 35,000 books or documents including 2,000 periodicals illustrating Gandhi’s life. A gallery in the museum showcases his artefacts such as paintings, one of Gandhi’s walking sticks, the shawl and dhoti worn by Gandhi when he was assassinated, one of the bullets that were used to kill Gandhi, his urn, some of Gandhi’s teeth and his ivory toothpick. Other exhibits related to India’s history are also on display here. One can also watch a film on Mahatma Gandhi’s life and philosophy of the Sarvodaya Movement in either English or Hindi. The films in both languages are shown between 9:30 am and 5:30 pm except on Thursdays. On Sundays, the film is shown in Hindi at 4 pm and in English at 5 pm. Rajghat is open between 6:30 am and 5 pm on all days and entry is free.

Festivals of India – Rongker

Posted on January 6, 2023 by memoriesandsuch

A major spring and harvest festival in northeast India, Rongker is celebrated by the Karbis who were earlier known as the Mikir and are indigenous to the state. The Karbis are a major important ethnic group of Assam in Northeast India, especially in the hill areas of Assam. The Karbis are the primary inhabitants of the Karbi Anglong district. They are also found in the North Kachar district, Kamrup, Nagaon, and Sonitpur districts of Assam. The Karbis are found in the states of Meghalaya, Arunachal, Manipur, and Nagaland.

The festival does have a specific time although it is usually observed at the beginning of the Karbi New year, Thang thang on February 5. Different villages may observe it at different times depending on their convenience. Rongker is celebrated as a Thanksgiving to God for peace, prosperity and a good harvest as well as asking for their assistance to protect them from any evil harm that may happen to the village. It is a post-harvest festival where the community comes together and celebrates with much pomp and gaiety.

The Kurusar or the priest performs prayers and offers animal sacrifices to appease the Karbi deities and seek their blessings for the welfare of the village and its protection from evil entities and natural calamities. The community believes that non-observance of the ritual will invite misfortune upon the village and its inhabitants. It is a yearly religious festival of the Karbis which is performed by every village. Every Karbi village has an allotted place for performing Rongker and every year, villagers across the entire district form a committee to overlook the preparation for Rongker puja. The festival lasts for three days with all villagers contributing in cash and kind as well as donations collected from neighbouring villages to meet the expenses of the rituals.

10 earthen altars against all the deities are installed on the eastern side of the site where the festival is to be held. They are constructed in a row heading in the south-north direction and named after the deities. The shape of altars is made in such a manner that the respective Gods can rest there comfortably. Although 12 deities are worshipped, only 10 altars are set up. A gourd with a tapering mouth full of the first-made rice beer is placed on the altars in the name of the respective deities and other than that, nothing else is placed on the altars. However, two small branches of bamboo are erected on the altar of Ningding Sarpo, a few branches of Basil and a few bamboo sticks are erected on the altar of Murti and a branch of Fongrong, a kind of tree used for worshipping is placed on the altar of Arlok.

The festival is divided into four major parts. During Sadi, all the deities are invited. In Karkli, the deities are worshipped in two ways – Kibo-Kaba, offering meals to the deities and Koia-abida, which is the offering of areca-nut and betel leaves to the deities. All the menfolk take part in the festival and gather in the particular site in the morning with all items required to worship. The main task is performed by the Kurusar, the main priest, assisted by some other religious specialists, the village headman, an official of the Karbi Kingdom, the youth leader of the village, and a few elderly villagers well-versed in worshipping the deities. It is not mandatory to take bath before performing the rituals but they must be purified by sprinkling water with the leaves of the sacred basil. All the sacrifices are made in the names of the deities except for the deity Bamun, who is vegetarian. Then the thek-kere, the religious specialists predict the future of the village at the heart and intestine of the sacrificed animals. At the end of the ritual, a feast is organised. Rongphu-Rongling-Kangthin is also called the Ajo-Rongker and is performed on the night of the second day. Here, the evil spirits are driven out from the lower to the upper part of the village through dancing. An altar is made at the end of the village road and a chicken is sacrificed in the name of Ajo-Angtarpi. Langhe Rongker is the concluding part of the festival observed on the third day of the festival. It is performed near a ghat by making an altar and sacrificing a cock in the name of Arnam-teke, the tiger god, to prevent tigers from attacking.

During this festival, some taboos are observed. The taboos include things like prohibiting husking, not allowing females to participate in the festival, no one is allowed to take part in any agricultural activities during the festival and none of the villagers is allowed to leave the village.

Traditional Dance performance like Ritnong chingdi, Nimso kerung, Hacha kekan, Chong kedam take place as well as displays of Indigenous games.

There is another kind of Rongker performed on a greater scale which is celebrated every five years and is called Wofong Rongker. Wofong Rongker is performed for the well-being of all the people of the villages that fall within a larger jurisdiction and each village is represented by the village headman and several male village elders and is celebrated for two days.

Travel Bucket List: India – Mizoram Part 4

Posted on December 30, 2022 by memoriesandsuch

Murlen National Park
Located about 250 km east of Aizwal, the Murlen National Park is close to the Chin Hills, north of the Lengteng Wildlife Sanctuary. The park covers an area of approximately 200 sq km and the tropical, semi-evergreen, and submontane forests of Murlen are home to a rich variety of flora and fauna. About 15 species of mammals, 150 species of birds, 35 species of medicinal plants, two species of bamboo, and four species of orchids have so far been recorded in this park. Murlen National Park is located at Murlen village, which is the village of Saithuama Sailo, the Chief of Hnahlan and is a part of the Hnahlan Village. Murlen was declared a National Park in 1991.

Only about 1% of the sun’s rays can penetrate the forest on a sunny day. So the forest cover in the park can generally be compared to the Amazon region in South America. Some of the trees found in the park are 350 years old and there is an area in the park where the sun’s rays cannot penetrate. For this reason, the area has been known as the losing area of seven fellow men or the land of no return. Two species of Ceropegia belonging to the Asclepiadaceae plant family have been discovered in Murlen National Park. The national park is famous for housing animals like the hoolock gibbon, and the Himalayan Black Bear as well as leopards, tigers, and many other species.

Phawngpui
A quaint and serene village located about 300 km south of Aizwal at an elevation of 2157 m, Phawngpui proffers picturesque views surrounded by verdant trees and lofty mountains. Also known as Blue Mountain, Phawngpui is the highest mountain peak in the Mizo or Lushai Hills. It is in the southeastern region near the Myanmar border. A trek to the top of the mountain will provide amazing views of the whole place which will make one feel as if they are in heaven. The ideal time to visit Phawngpui is between November and April when the weather is pleasant and a cool breeze flows. There is a semicircular series of cliffs on the western side called Thlazuang Khàm, which have a sharp and deep fall; mountain goats live there. These cliffs are believed to be haunted by spirits. On the peak, there is a level ground of about 2 sq km in area.

A highly revered peak, considered to be the abode of local deities, Phawngpui was a major centre of folk religion and a location for folklore stories. The name is derived from the Lai language, with phong, meaning a grassland or meadow, and the suffix pui meaning, great. This was because the mountain was mostly covered with all types of meadows, hence the great meadow. The mountain was, according to the belief of the natives, the abode of several spiritual races. The most important folktale, perhaps, is that of a deity king named Sangau; the actual town at the base of the mountain which has become Sangau. Sangau had a son who married the princess of another royal family called Cherian. At the wedding was an exchange of gifts, a couple of hoolock gibbons from Sangau and a pine tree from Cherian. The base area, the main entrance of the mountain bears the name Farpak which means pine only.

The Chhimtuipui River is a serene river that flows in Phawngpui and is the perfect place to spend some quiet time in the lap of nature. The beauty of the river is captivating during sunrises and sunsets, so if visiting Phawngpui, make time during that time of the day to visit the river. Located 7 km from Phawngpui, Farpak provides picturesque views of nature and is also the base for the trek up to Phawngpui peak. Replete with lush green trees and fauna, some of the commonly spotted animals include clouded leopards and elephants. Sangau is located 30 km from Phawngpui and is another base from where one can trek up the Phawngpui mountain.

Phawngpui National Park
The Phawngpui National Park or The Phawngpui Blue Mountain National Park is one of the two national parks in Mizoram, the other and larger being the Murlen National Park. It is about 300 km from Aizwal, towards the southeast of Mizoram relatively close to Myanmar. The park is named after the Phawngpui mountain, often called the Blue Mountain, the highest mountain peak in the state, reaching 2,157 m asl. The national park covers the entire mountain along with the surrounding reserve forest. In the Lai dialect, Phawng means a meadow and pui is the suffix for great. It is also believed by many that Phawngpui was an abode of God.

The mountain area of Phawngpui is at most times covered by a thin stretch of clouds, which makes it blue in appearance from a distance, hence the name Blue Mountain. It overlooks the River Chhimtuipui flowing towards Myanmar and the edges of the mountains are all very steep and have sharp precipices, with the most spectacular one being a semi-circular beautiful cliff on the western side called Thlazuang Khâm, which has a blunt and deep fall. The mountain ridge runs in a north-south direction covering about 10 km. The closest human settlement is Thaltlang village at the base and periphery of the park.

The Phawngpui National Park provides habitat for a range of birds including the rare Blyth’s tragopan, falcon, sunbirds, dark-rumped swift, and Mrs Hume’s pheasant, which is the Mizoram state bird, and also rare animals like the mountain goat, slow loris, tiger, leopard, leopard cat, serow, goral, Asiatic black bear, stump-tailed macaque and capped langur. In 2000, rare bird species were recorded such as mountain bamboo partridge, oriental pied hornbill, purple cochoa, striped laughing thrush, grey sibia, black eagle and large-billed crow. The clouded leopard or Neofelis nebulosa was spotted and documented for the first time in 1997. The landscape is the natural habitat of various grass and the steep slopes are covered by orchids and rhododendrons, with areas of bamboo.

Ecofriendly visits to the national park are only allowed during the dry season with permits open for six months between November to the end of April. The rest of the season is left for natural development and rejuvenation.

The highest point in the state, Phawngpui Peak is a revered mountain. Also known as the blue mountain, the peak is located within the Phawngpui National Park and oversees a wondrous landscape full of deep crevices and magnificent cliffs. Trekking to the summit of Phawngpui is an experience no adventure lover can let go of. At a height of 2100 m, Phawngpui Peak is considered to be the abode of the Goddess of the Mizo tribes. The peak is made accessible by the state only between November to April and during this time, the route is usually dry and well marked out due to animal movements. The winter months can be cold so multiple layers are needed. The peak and national park are open between 6 am and 5 pm daily and there is a minimal entry fee to the national park.

Saiha
Saiha which is also known as Siaha lies about 300 km south of Aizwal and is the headquarters of the Mara Autonomous District Council, one of the three autonomous district councils within Mizoram. The word Siaha in the local Mara language comes from Sia for Masia which means elephant and ha meaning tooth, so the name translates to an elephant’s tooth. The name came about because it was here that a large number of elephant teeth were found. Though the local people name the town as Siaha, Mizos called it by the name Saiha, which is purely a translated term in the Mizo language.

Saiha is known as the fastest-growing town in Mizoram, as the population has significantly risen in the last decade. The town lies at an average height of 729 meters above sea level and is considered to be a haven for angling enthusiasts.

Lying 130 km to the southwest of Saiha lies the Palak Wildlife Sanctuary, an exquisite display of biodiversity. It is situated in the Lakher region, which lies in the southern part of Mizoram. Not the biggest of wildlife sanctuaries, it is spread across 15.50 sq km and boasts a range of species like the sambar, barking deer, leopard, elephant and rhesus macaque.

Palak Dil, also known as Pala Tipo is located in the Phura village, a few km from the main town of Saiha. The lake’s name in the Mizo language means the swallowing lake and is the largest lake in Mizoram. The lake is located in an area rich in biodiversity, given that it is located in the Indo-Burma biodiversity hotspot. As it is a major component of the Palak Wildlife Sanctuary, it is also blessed with a lot of flora and fauna. The lake covers an area of 30 hectares and is surrounded by a thick unspoilt forest.

Mount Mawma is the third-highest mountain in Mizoram and the highest mountain within the Mara Autonomous District Council. Situated in the southeastern part of Mizoram, it is just 15 km from India’s international boundary with Myanmar. Two km from Mount Mawma lies Chakhei, a town where a well-furnished guest house is located. Mount Mawma is 6,725 feet or 2,050 m above sea level. During winter, the plains of Bangladesh as well as many parts of western Myanmar, are visible from the peak of the mountain.

This brings us to the last of the seven sister states of northeast India. While on one hand, I would love the northeast of India to be more accessible and have better rail and road infrastructure, on the other hand, over-commercialisation will most likely lead to the area losing the charm it currently has. This a question we all need to think about, what is the right amount of commercialisation that an area retains the charm and beauty it is known for and at the same time, infrastructure is built to promote tourism?

The next state we will explore will be the last state I have left to explore in India, which will be Delhi, India’s capital. So look out for it.

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

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