Travel Bucket List: India – Andhra Pradesh Part 1

Posted on January 20, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

A state in the south-eastern coastal region, Andhra Pradesh is the seventh-largest state by area and tenth-most populous state of India. It is bordered by Telangana to the north-west, Chhattisgarh to the north, Odisha to the north-east, Tamil Nadu to the south, Karnataka to the west and the Bay of Bengal to the east. Andhra Pradesh has the second longest coastline in India after Gujarat and was the first state to be formed on a linguistic basis in 1953. Once a major Buddhist pilgrimage site and Buddhist learning center, the state is also known as the land of the world-famous diamond Koh-i-Noor due to the Kollur Mine and the rice bowl of India because of its status as a major producer of rice.

The state comprises two major regions, Rayalaseema in the south-west and coastal Andhra bordering the Bay of Bengal in the east and north-east. The state is unique because it is the only state with three capitals – Visakapatanam, the largest city and commercial hub of the state being the executive capital, and Amaravati and Kurnool serving as the legislative and judicial capitals respectively. The state has the seventh-largest state economy in India with a higher than national average per capita GDP. The Tirumala Venkateswara Temple in Tirupati is one of the world’s most visited religious sites, with 18.25 million visitors per year. The region is also home to a variety of other pilgrimage centres, such as the Pancharama Kshetras, Mallikarjuna Jyotirlinga and Kodanda Rama Temple. The state’s natural attractions include the beaches of Visakhapatnam, hill stations such as the Araku Valley and Horsley Hills, and the delta of Konaseema in the Godavari River delta.

The early inhabitants of the state were known as the Andhras, tracing their history to the Vedic period when they were mentioned in the 8th century BC Rigvedic text Aitareya Brahmana. According to the Aitareya Brahmana, the Andhras left North India from the banks of river Yamuna and migrated to South India. The region also derives its name from the Satavahanas who are also known as the Andhras, the earliest kings of Andhra Pradesh and India. The Satavahanas have been mentioned by the names Andhra, Andhrara-jateeya and Andhrabhrtya in the Puranic literature. They did not refer themselves as Andhra in any of their coins or inscriptions; it is possible that they were termed as Andhras because of their ethnicity or because their territory included the Andhra region.
The state was ruled by Satavahanas, Eastern Chalukyas, Andhra Ikshvakus, Vijayanagara Empire, Mauryan Empire, Cholas, Pallavas, Salankayanas, Vishnukundinas, Kakatiyas and Rashtrakutas.

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The Assaka Mahajanapada, one of the sixteen Vedic Mahajanapadas, included Andhra, Maharashtra and Telangana. Archaeological evidence from places such as Amaravati, Dharanikota, and Vaddamanu suggests that the Andhra region was part of the Mauryan Empire. Amaravati might have been a regional centre for the Mauryan rule. After the death of Emperor Ashoka, Mauryan rule weakened around 200 BC and was replaced by several smaller kingdoms in the Andhra region. The Satavahana dynasty dominated the Deccan region from the 1st century BC to the 3rd century BC. The later Satavahanas made Dharanikota and Amaravathi their capital, which according to the Buddhists is the place where Nagarjuna, the philosopher of Mahayana lived in the 2nd and 3rd centuries. The Andhra Ikshvakus, with their capital at Vijayapuri, succeeded the Satavahanas in the Krishna River valley in the latter half of the 2nd century. The Pallavas, who were originally executive officers under the Satavahana kings, were not a recognised political power before the 2nd century and were swept away by the Western Chalukyan invasion, led by Pulakesin II in the first quarter of the 7th century. After the downfall of the Ikshvakus, the Vishnukundinas were the first great dynasty in the 5th and 6th centuries, and held sway over the entire Andhra country, including Kalinga and parts of Telangana. They played an important role in the history of Deccan during the 5th and 6th century, with Eluru, Amaravathi and Puranisangam.

The Salankayanas were an ancient dynasty that ruled the Andhra region between Godavari and Krishna with their capital at Vengi which today is modern Pedavegi from 300 to 440. The Eastern Chalukyas of Vengi, whose dynasty lasted for around five hundred years from the 7th century until 1130, eventually merged with the Chola Empire and continued to rule under the protection of the Chola Empire until 1189 when the kingdom succumbed to the Hoysalas and the Yadavas. The Kakatiyas ruled Andhra Pradesh state for nearly two hundred years and constructed several forts and were succeeded by the Musunuri Nayaks. The Reddi kingdom was established in the early 14th century, ruled from present day Kondaveedu and constructed the Kondaveedu Fort before it was taken over by the Gajpathis of Orissa, and later ravaged by the Muslim rulers of the Bahmani kingdom in 1458 and which the Vijayanagara emperor Krishnadevaraya captured it in 1516. The Golconda Sultans fought for the fort in 1531, 1536 and 1579, and Sultan Quli Qutb Shah captured it in 1579, renaming it Murtuzanagar. It was reconquered by Vijayanagara who overthrew sultanate rule across the entirety of modern-day Andhra Pradesh, excluding Telangana. After this rebellion, the Bahmani sultans launched no further military campaigns outside their kingdoms, because the Maratha empire soon emerged as the strongest power in India. Today efforts are in progress to classify Kondaveedu Fort as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Vijayanagara Empire originated in the Deccan Plateau region in the early 14th century. The empire’s patronage enabled fine arts and literature to reach new heights in Kannada, Telugu, Tamil, and Sanskrit, while Carnatic music evolved into its current form. During the Vijayanagara Empire, the Pemmasani Nayaks controlled parts of Andhra Pradesh and had large mercenary armies that were the vanguard of the Vijayanagara Empire in the sixteenth century. The Lepakshi group of monuments are culturally and archaeologically significant as it is the location of shrines dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu, and Veerabhadra which were built during the Vijayanagara Kings’ period. The temples are the location of mural paintings of the Vijayanagara kings, Dravidian art, and inscriptions. Near the temple complex is a large granite Nandi bull and on a hillock known as Kurma Saila or tortoise-shaped hill are other temples dedicated to Papanatheswara, Raghunatha, Srirama, and Durga. The Government of Andhra Pradesh has taken the initiative to include Lepakshi Group of Monuments among the UNESCO World Heritage sites in India.

The Qutb Shahi dynasty held sway over the Andhra country for about two hundred years from the early part of the sixteenth century to the end of the seventeenth century. In the early nineteenth century, Northern Circars was ceded to the British East India Company and became part of the Madras Presidency. Eventually, this region emerged as the Coastal Andhra region. Later the Nizam rulers of Hyderabad ceded five territories to the British that eventually became the Rayalaseema region. The Nizams retained control of the interior provinces as the princely state of Hyderabad, acknowledging British rule in return for local autonomy. However, Komaram Bheem, a tribal leader, started his fight against the erstwhile Asaf Jahi Dynasty for the liberation of Hyderabad State. Meanwhile, the French occupied Yanam, in the Godavari delta, and save for periods of British control would hold it until 1954. In 1947, Vizianagaram was the largest Hindu princely state in Andhra Pradesh.

After India’s independence in 1947, the Nizam wanted to retain the independence of the princely Hyderabad State from India, but the people of the region launched a movement to join the Indian Union. The state of Hyderabad was integrated into the Indian Union with Operation Polo in 1948. In an effort to gain an independent state based on linguistic identity, Potti Sreeramulu fasted to death in 1952 and after his death, the Telugu-speaking area of Andhra State was carved out of Madras State on 1 October 1953, with Kurnool as its capital city. On the basis of the gentlemen’s agreement of 1 November 1956, the States Reorganisation Act formed a combined Andhra Pradesh by merging Andhra State with the Telugu-speaking areas of the already existing Hyderabad State and Hyderabad was made the capital of the new state. The Marathi-speaking areas of Hyderabad State merged with Bombay State and the Kannada-speaking areas were merged with Mysore State. In February 2014, the Andhra Pradesh Reorganisation Act, 2014 bill was passed by the Parliament of India for the formation of the Telangana state comprising ten districts. Hyderabad would remain as a joint capital for a period not exceeding ten years and the new state of Telangana came into existence on 2 June 2014.

The state has varied topography ranging from the hills of Eastern Ghats and Nallamala Hills to the shores of Bay of Bengal that support varied ecosystems, the rich diversity of flora and fauna. There are two main rivers namely, Krishna and Godavari, that flow through the state. The coast of the state extends along the Bay of Bengal from Srikakulam to Nellore district. The plains to the east of Eastern Ghats form the Eastern coastal plains. The coastal plains are for the most part of delta regions formed by the Godavari, Krishna, and Penner Rivers. The Eastern Ghats are discontinuous and individual sections have local names. The Eastern Ghats are a major dividing line in the state’s geography. The Kadapa Basin formed by two arching branches of the Eastern Ghats is a mineral-rich area. Most of the coastal plains are put to intense agricultural use and the Rayalaseema region has semi-arid conditions.

We will start with Andhra Pradesh’s biggest city Vishakhapatanam which lies to the north of the state and work our way down to the south to the one of the wold’s holiest temples of Tirupati.

Vishakhapatanam
Also known as Vizag, Visakhapatnam is the executive capital of Andhra Pradesh and its most populated and largest. It lies between the Eastern Ghats and the coast of the Bay of Bengal and is the third largest city in the Indian east coast after Chennai and Kolkata and the fourth largest city in South India and serves as the headquarters for the Eastern Naval Command.

The city is home to the oldest shipyard and the only natural harbour on the east coast of India with the Visakhapatnam Port being the fifth-busiest cargo port in India. Nicknamed the City of Destiny and the Jewel of the East Coast, Vishakhaptanam was third cleanest city in India in 2017, the seventh cleanest in 2018 and 23rd in 2019. Visakhapatnam is surrounded by ancient Buddhist sites, most of which have been excavated recently and illustrate the legacy of Buddhism in the region.

With a history stretching back to 6th century BC, when it was considered a part of the Kalinga Kingdom, Vishakhapatanam was later ruled by the Vengi, the Pallava and the Eastern Ganga dynasties and was historically considered part of the Kalinga empire. Archaeological records suggest that the present city was built around the 11th and 12th centuries with control over the city fluctuating between the Chola Dynasty and the Gajapati Kingdom, until its conquest by the Vijayanagara Empire in the 15th century. Conquered by the Mughals in the 16th century, European powers eventually set up trading interests in the city, and by the end of the 18th century it had come under French rule. Control passed to the British Raj in 1804 and it remained under British colonial rule until India’s independence in 1947.

According to local belief, a 4th century king during a pilgrimage, halted at Lawson’s Bay and built a temple dedicated to his family diety Vaisakha, which was submerged under the sea, but the settlement which formed around the temple was named Vishakhapatanam after the Goddess. Another legend says the city is named after Sri Visakha Varma. Legend has it that Radha and Viśakha were born on the same day and were equally beautiful. Sri Visakka Sakhi was the second most important gopi of the eight main gopis and carried messages between Radha and Krishna and was the most expert gopi messenger. Another theory is that it is named after a woman disciple of Buddha named Visakha. The other names the city was known were Kulotungapatnam, named by the Chola King Kulotun I; Ishakapatnam, based on a Muslim Saint, Syed Ali Madani or Ishak Madani; Vizagapatam and Waltair during the British colonial rule.

The Rishikonda Beach also known as Rushikonda Beach is a stunning shoreline which remains unspoilt. It is also known as the Jewel of the East Coast and is located in the midst of a frothy blue sea and emerald greenery. A favourite among water sports enthusiasts due to the range of activities offered here, Rushikonda Beach is one of the few beaches that offers swimming under expert supervision. There is also a ropeway to the Kailashgiri hilltop from the beach from where visitors can enjoy a toy train ride. The Rishikonda Beach also houses the Iskcon Temple.

The Yarada Beach is an entrancing place which is surrounded by hills on three sides and the Bay of Bengal on the fourth and is covered with lush greenery and soft golden sands all over. It is an ideal location to view enchanting sunrise and sunsets. The beach is located about 15 km from Visakhapatnam and is not very crowded and is covered with coconut and banana plantations. Though there is no entry fee a charge of INR 30 is charged for entering the Arigold property and accessing the shops as well as restaurants there.

Very similar to a dolphin’s nose, Dolphin’s nose is a 174 m high rocky headland situated in the south of Vizag. The nose seems to be protruding out towards the Bay of Bengal giving it a rather fascinating look. A renowned powerful light house with a light beam that can be seen as far as 64 km out at sea is nearby. There is also a hill nearby named the Dolphin hill and is a restricted armed forces residential area. The back of the hill has a scenic, beautifully placed, secluded beach called Yarada.

The Lawson’s Bay beach is often considered an extension of Ramakrisha Beach and is a calm, serene and secluded stretch with lush greenery and whitish sands. The majestic sea with shallow crystal clear water and calm waves here is ideal for swimming, sun bathing and surfing.

Havi Konda, Thotla Konda, Bojjana Konda, and Salihundam located around the city were places of Buddhist excavations. The excavations of 1906 that took place have brought out many Buddhist monuments such as stupas and chaityas. It is believed that some of the corporal remnants of the Buddha were conserved at these sacred Buddhist places. Dantapuram, another Buddhist excavation site, has been beautifully placed at the confluence of river Vamsadhara with the Bay of Bengal. The excavations in this holy place have exposed many stupas and antiquities.

Bojjannakonda is a small group of six rock-cut caves on Bojjannakonda hill that date back to the 4th century AD when Buddhism was flourishing in the region. The caves have beautifully carved statues of Gautam Buddha which draw tourists and believers for its aesthetic and religious importance. The caves nearby also have stupas where Buddhist monks would meditate. The caves form a notable establishment of Buddhists in the region and stand out for its large group of monolithic stupas that surround a Maha Stupa which has a dome made of bricks. The three phases of Buddhism – Mahayana, Hinayana and Vajrayana are featured on the caves, chaityas and the monasteries. Bojjannakonda has six rock-cut caves, a group of stupas surrounding a maha stupa and chaityas surrounding the maha stupa. The caves have panels that have been meticulously sculptured. The main cave is comparatively larger and has sixteen pillars. It has a monolithic stupa right in the centre, creating a pathway around the stupas for pradakshina. The dome of several stupas is made of bricks. Two of these brick stupas hold stone relic caskets or miniature stupas. An umbrella is carved on the ceiling over the stupa. This umbrella was originally connected to the top of the stupa. However, after years of weathering the shaft that connected the umbrella to the stupa is no longer seen. The cave has two levels – the top level has a carving of Gautam Buddha where he can be seen sitting in a lotus position/ meditating posture with attendants around him. At the foothills, an image of a Buddhist Monk, Harati, can also be found.

Bojjannakonda marks one of the most significant Buddhist establishments in Andhra Pradesh during between the 4th and 9th centuries. During that time, the village, Sankaram, was known as Sangharam, meaning Boudha-Arama or Vihara. Between 4th and 9th centuries, Mahayana, Hinayana and Vajrayana flourished in Andhra Pradesh. The caves were found only after an excavation that was carried out in 1907 – 1908 where . items like mud utensils, seals, pots, terracotta beads, gold, lead and copper coins, and metal figures were recovered from the caves. An idol of Kalabhairav and an image of Harati were also later on discovered during the excavation. Open daily from 9 am to 6 pm, the caves come under the Archaeological Survey of India

The Victory at Sea War Memorial is located on Beach road and has a pyre lit permanently in honour of Indian martyrs. Missiles, fighter plane models and tankers are also kept around the memorial which can be seen from the main road itself when on the way to the beach. The monument was built in 1996 to honour the brave sailors of Indian Navy and the Eastern Naval Command who fought the Indo-Pak War and sunk PNS Gazi, a Pakistani submarine when Pakistan targeted the Visakhapatnam Port to destroy INS Vikrant, an Indian aircraft carrier.

The Submarine Museum is a museum inside an actual submarine, INS Kurusura, which was India’s 5th submarine. The museum is situated on RK beach, near the War Memorial and the beautiful scenery with clear blue waters and golden sand serves as a perfect location for the museum. The museum has artefacts, pictures and articles that share stories of strength and sacrifice of the sailors. The INS Kurusura served the Indian Navy for 31 years before it was decommissioned in 2001. The submarine was included on a key patrol mission in 1971 during the Indo-Pak war and has been an important participant in numerous naval exercises and goodwill visits. The submarine is 91.3 metres long and 8 metres wide. This USSR make, class I-641 submarine has a displacement of 1945 tons. Its diving depth is 280 metres and can accommodate about 77 sailors at a time. It has 22 torpedoes, 3 diesel engines, 448 batteries and reaches a speed of 15.5 knots. Post decommissioning, it was used a museum to spread awareness about Indian Naval Forces, the technology used and its development in India. It is a one of a kind project that was launched by the Eastern Naval Command. The only submarine museum in Asia, the interiors of the submarine has been re-arranged to allow a clear view to visitors. There are Naval Officers that serve as guides at the venue and they share their stories, experiences and the history of the submarine to the visitors. The Dressing Ship Honour has been awarded to the submarine despite being a de-commissioned submarine. The museum is closed on Mondays and on other days it is open from 2 to 8:30 pm. Children pay an entry fee of INR 20 while adults pay INR 40. You need to pay INR 50 for a camera and INR 500 for a video camera.

The Indira Gandhi Zoological Park is set amidst the Eastern Ghats and is a part of the Kambalakonda Forest Reserve. It acts as a home for approximately eighty different species of animals spread over an area of 625 acres and is one of the largest zoological parks in Andhra Pradesh. The Bay of Bengal is situated close by, which makes it an ideal destination to study flora and fauna right beside each other. This park also has a separate section for butterflies and moths, and this part of the park is open only during the day, as moths and butterflies cannot fly during the late hours of the day. The walls are adorned with pictures and information about these gentle creatures to spread awareness about them. The animal population here is perfectly complemented by the surrounding foliage of the Eastern Ghats, which surrounds this place on three sides. The area of the entire park sums to about 625 acres. There is even a mini train inside the park to view all of its premises. Entry fee for adults cost INR 10 and for children INR 5. There is separate ticket if you want to enjoy the mini train ride. For adults, the ticket price for the mini train is INR 15, and for children, it is INR 10. The park is open daily except Mondays from 9 am to 5 pm.

Kailasagiri is a hill top park at 360 feet and overlooks beaches, forests & the city with one of the best spots for a bird’s eye view of the bay. The park is well known for its panoramic view, peaceful atmosphere and scenic beauty, and offers plenty of leisure activities. The park is open from 11 am to 8 pm with the winters being the best time to visit. Entry fee is INR 5 and a round trip on the cable car costs INR 75 for an adult and INR 40 for children.

The Simhachalam temple is an ornate shrine revered to be one of the most important temples in the region. The temple is perched atop a hill 800 metres above and is dedicated to Lord Narasimha, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The temple is embellished with extremely detailed stone carvings and design and can be spotted from a distance. This is the only temple in the country where Shri Varaha Lakshmi Narasimha Swami, a combination of the third and fourth incarnations of Lord Vishnu, appears. Lord Narasimha appears here in the tribhanga posture and has two hands with the head of a lion on a human torso. The shrine follows strict discipline, and has detailed prayer routines for all days of the year undisturbed by the influx of pilgrims. This place is a treasure of traditional Vaishnavite culture. Interestingly, the statue of the deity appears in its true form only for 12 hours per year on the day of Akshaya Tritiya. On any other occasion, the idol is covered with sandalwood paste. The temple is open from 7 am to 4 pm and then again between 6 to 9 pm.

Ross Hill Church is one of the few locations that can be climbed to get a fabulous view of the quaint city and the port area. The attraction is frequently visited by photographers and nature lovers especially to view the beautiful sunrises and sunsets. The church a beautiful architecture and a serene vibe with the hill atop which the church stands being the highest and the central hill in the region. Ross Hill Chapel was once the house of an Englishman and local judge, Monsieur Ross. The house was built in 1864 and was converted into a chapel in 1867. The region was severely affected by cyclones in 1870 and 1876 and in 1877, the church was renovated, and a new statue of Our Lady of the Sacred Heart was installed. Since then, the church has been through several modification and renovations to accommodate more devotees. When the Japanese raided Visakhapatnam in 1942, a procession was taken to Ross Hill Church to keep the city and the inhabitants safe from the enemy. It is said that no raid has happened ever since. The church is open between 9 am and 6 pm daily.

In the next part, we will visit Araku Valley, Vizianagaram, Annavaram, Samalkot, Kakinada and Rajahmundry

Festivals of India: Lohri

Posted on January 13, 2021 by memoriesandsuch

Today, Punjab will come together to celebrate the festival of Lohri. A celebration of the winter solstice, Lohri is is a popular Punjabi winter folk festival which is beloved in the Punjab region. The significance and legends about the Lohri festival are many and these link the festival to the region. It is believed by many that the festival commemorates the passing of the winter solstice. Lohri marks the end of winter, and is a traditional welcome of longer days and the sun’s journey to the northern hemisphere by Sikhs and Hindus in the region. Lohri is observed the night before Makar Sankranti, also known as Maghi, according to the solar part of the lunisolar Bikrami calendar and typically falls about the same date every year which is January 13 in the month of Paush and is set by the solar part of the lunisolar Punjabi calendar and in most years it falls around 13 January of the Gregorian calendar. An official restricted holiday in the Indian Punjab, Haryana and the National Capital Territory of Delhi, Lohri is not a holiday in the Pakistani Punjab, but It is, observed by Hindus, Sikhs and some Muslims there.

There are many folklores about Lohri which is the celebration of the arrival of longer days after the winter solstice. According to folklore, in ancient times Lohri was celebrated at the end of the traditional month when the winter solstice occurs with the day after Lohri celebrated as Maghi Sangrand.

The festival is ancient, originating in the regions near the Himalayan mountains where winter is colder than the rest of the subcontinent. Hindus traditionally lit bonfires in their yards after the weeks of the rabi season cropping work, socialised around the fire, sang and danced together as they marked the end of winter and the onset of longer days. After the night of bonfire celebrations, Hindus would mark Makar Sankranti and go to a sacred water body such as a river or lake to bathe. Over the years, however, instead of celebrating Lohri on the eve of when winter solstice actually occurs, Punjabis started to celebrate it on the last day of the month during which winter solstice takes place.

The festival’s ancient significance is both as a winter crop season celebration and a remembrance of the Sun deity or Surya. Lohri songs mention the Sun god asking for heat and thanking him for his return. Other legends explain the celebration as a folk reverence for the Lord of fire or Agni or the goddess of Lohri. Yet another folklore links Lohri to the tale of Dulla Bhatti. The central theme of many Lohri songs is the legend of Dulla Bhatti who lived in Punjab during the reign of Mughal emperor Akbar. He was regarded as a hero in Punjab, for rescuing Hindu girls from being forcibly taken to be sold in slave market of the Middle East. Amongst those he saved were two girls Sundri & Mundri, who gradually became a theme of Punjab’s folklore. As a part of Lohri celebrations, children go around homes singing the traditional folk songs of Lohri with Dulla Bhatti’s name included in them. One person sings, while others end each line with a loud “Ho!” sung in unison. After the song ends, the adult of the home is expected to give snacks and money to the singing troupe of youngsters.

Some people believe that Lohri has derived its name from Loi, the wife of Saint Kabir. There is a legend amongst some people that Lohri comes from the word ‘loh’, which means the light and the warmness of fire. Lohri is also called lohi in rural Punjab. According to another legend Holika and Lohri were sisters. While the former perished in the Holi fire, the latter survived with Prahlad. Eating of til or sesame seeds and rorhi or jaggery is considered to be essential on Lohri day. Perhaps the words til and rorhi merged to become tilorhi, which eventually got shortened to Lohri.

Lohri is celebrated with a bonfire, the lighting of which during this winter festival is an ancient tradition. Eating sheaves of roasted corn from the new harvest and celebrating the January sugarcane harvest is how Lohri is celebrated. Sugarcane products such as jaggery and gachak or peanut candy are central to Lohri celebrations, as are nuts which are harvested in January. The other important food items of Lohri are radishes and mustard greens. During this time, it is traditional to eat gajak, sarson da saag with makki di roti, radish, ground nuts and jaggery as well as til rice which is made by mixing jaggery, sesame seeds and rice. In some places, this dish is called Tricholi.

In various places of the Punjab, about 10 to 15 days before Lohri, groups of young and teenage boys and girls go around the neighbourhood collecting logs for the Lohri bonfire. In some places, they also collect items such as grains and jaggery which are sold and the sale proceeds are divided amongst the group. In some parts of Punjab, there is a popular “trick or treat” activity which is engaged in by boys to select a group member to smear his face with ash and tie a rope around his waist. The idea is for the selected person to act as a deterrent for people who refrain from giving Lohri items. The boys will sing Lohri songs asking for Lohri items. If not enough is given, the householder will be given an ultimatum to either give more or the rope will be loosened. If not enough is given, then the boy who has his face smeared will try to enter the house and smash clay pots or the clay stove.

During the day, children go from door to door singing folk songs. These children are given sweets and savories, and occasionally, money. Turning them back empty-handed is regarded inauspicious. Where families have newly-weds and new borns, the requests for treats increases. The collections gathered by the children are known as Lohri and consist of til, gachchak, crystal sugar, jaggery, peanuts and phuliya or popcorn. Lohri is then distributed at night during the festival. Sesame seeds, peanuts, popcorn and other food items are also thrown into the fire. For some, throwing food into the fire represents the burning of the old year and start the next year on Makar Sankranti

The bonfire ceremony differs depending on the location in Punjab. In some parts, a small image of the folk Lohri goddess is made with gobar or cattle dung decorating it, kindling a fire beneath it and chanting its praises. The folk Lohri goddess is believed to be an ancient aspect of the celebration, and is part of a long tradition of the winter solstice celebrations manifesting as a god or goddess. In other parts, the Lohri fire consists of cow dung and wood with no reference to the Lohri goddess. The bonfire is lit at sunset in the main village square. People toss sesame seeds, gur, sugar-candy and rewaries on the bonfire, sit around it, sing and dance till the fire dies out. Some people perform a prayer and go around the fire. This is to show respect to the natural element of fire, a tradition common in winter solstice celebrations. It is traditional to offer guests til, gachchak, jaggery, peanuts and phuliya or popcorn. Milk and water are also poured around the bonfire by Hindus to thank the Sun God and seeking his continued protection. Chants of “Aadar aye dilather jaye” meaning “may honour come and poverty vanish” are chanted while moving around the fire.

In the northern union territory of Jammu and Kashmir, Lohri in Jammu is special because of various additional traditions associated with it like Chajja making and dancing, hiran dance and preparing Lohri garlands. Young children prepare a replica of a peacock known as Chajja. They carry this Chajja and then go from one house to other house celebrating Lohri. In and around Jammu, a special hiran or deer dance is performed. Selected houses which have auspicious ceremonies prepare eatables and children wear special garlands made of groundnuts, dry fruits and candies on the day of the festival.

Among some sections of the Sindhi community, the festival is traditionally celebrated as Lal Loi. On the day of Lal Loee children bring wood sticks from their grandparents and aunts and light a fire burning the sticks in the night with people enjoying, dancing and playing around the fire. The festival is gaining popularity amongst other Sindhis where Lohri is not a traditional festival.

Travel Bucket List: India – Utarakhand Part 6

Posted on December 28, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

One of the Panch Kedars in the world, Rudranath is a place religious significance and is situated at an altitude of 2300 meters above sea level and covered in thick forests. The town hosts a large Lord Shiva temple which requires a 21 km trek to reach. The temple also has idols as well as statues of Kunti, Pandavas, and Draupadi. Devotees take a bath in the holy Narad Kund situated near the temple before going inside the temple. According to the legends, the Rudranath Temple was built by the Pandavas. After the war, Pandavas went to the Himalayas searching for Lord Shiva so that they could be forgiven for their sins which they had committed after killing their relatives in the war. Since Lord Shiva was convinced that they were sinners and did not want to meet them, he took the form of a bull and escaped. He then appeared at the Panch Kedars, now known as the Panch Kedar Temple, his arms appearing at the Tunganath Temple, hunch in Kedarnath, face at Rudranath Temple, hair at Kalpeshwar and the navel and stomach at Madhyamaheshwar. Lord Shiva is worshipped as ‘Nilkanta Mahadev’ in Rudranath Temple. It is said that Lord Shiva jumped into the earth and appeared in Rudranath. However, the angry face of Lord Shiva is his temporary mask, and one can witness his pleasing beauty when it is taken off from the face while giving him the holy bath.

Our next destination is Guptakashi about 22 km west of Rudranath.

Also close to Kedarnath at a distance of 47 km, the temple town of Guptakashi is perched at an elevation of 1319 m and is framed by the snow-covered peaks of the Chaukhamba mountains. It houses two ancient temples namely the Vishwanath Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in the form of the Lord Vishwanath or the Lord of the Universe and the Ardhnareshwar Temple. The Vishwanath temple is made out of regional stones and the tower is adorned with a wooden frame. In fact it resembles a lot to the kasha Vishwanath in Varanasi. Situated on the left of the Vishwanath Temple, the Ardhanarishwar Temple is also dedicated to Lord Shiva with the presiding deity being half man and half woman representing Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. The Manikarnika Kund located within the complex of Vishwanath temple is another popular destination in the town. Here the Shiva Linga is bathed there from two source of water namely the Ganesha’s head and the cow’s head. The most fascinating thing is that it is considered that the water from the two sources is coming from two holy rivers i.e. River Ganga and River Yamuna. Guptkashi serves as a perfect stopover for those travelling to Kedarnath.

Nandprayag, our next destination is about 97 km southwest of Guptkashi.

One of the panchprayags, Nandaprayag is at the confluence of the rivers Alaknanda and Nandakini. Nandaprayag is one of the five meeting points of Alaknanda River with other rivers flowing into it Located at an altitude of 900 m surrounded by the mountains and beautiful scenery, the town used to be the capital of the erstwhile Yadu Kingdom whose king built the famous Nanda Temple. The Nanda Temple and the point of confluence of the Alaknanda and Nandakini rivers are the major tourist attractions & religious landmarks of the town. Close to Nandprayag at a distance of 20 km is Karnaprayag, the confluence of the Alaknanda with the Pindari River and is surrounded by an array of peaks like the Trisul, Dronagiri, Narad Ghunti, Mrigathuni and Maiktoli.

Close to Nandprayag, about 53 km west lies another temple town, Rudraprayag.

Lying at the confluence of River Alaknanda and River Mandakini, Rudraprayag is one of the panch prayags and a place of great religious significance. Offering spectacular views and spellbinding panoramic vistas, the town derives its name from Lord Shiva who is said to have appeared at the place in the form of Lord Rudra. Rudraprayag is sprinkled with several ancient temples and serves as a gateway to the two major pilgrimages towns of Kedarnath and Badrinath. It is believed that the celestial sage, Lord Narada performed intense penance to please Lord Shiva to teach him the mysteries related to music. Lord Shiva was pleased by his penance and appeared in the form of Rudra, teaching him music in the Rudra Temple. This is why the place came to be known as Rudraprayag. You can see pictures of Lord Narad with a Rudra garland around his neck, singing praises of Lord Shiva.

Moving on, let’s now travel 67 km west to Devprayag.

Marked by the confluence of the rivers Alaknanda and Bhagirathi, Devprayag is situated amidst rolling Himalayan ranges and is a popular pilgrimage centre. With ancient temples amidst lush green surroundings, this place oozes serenity. One of the panch prayag, the name Devprayag literally means the Confluence of the Gods as this is where the Alaknanda and Bhagitathi rivers join to become the mighty Ganges. One of the oldest temples of Lord Rama, the Raghunathji temple is believed to be around 10,000 years old and is made up of huge rocks and is located on the confluence of Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers. Also known as Tirukantamenum Kadi Nagar, it is one of the 108 Divyadesam that are dedicated to Lord Vishnu. This temple is dedicated to Raghunathji or Rama, an avatar of Lord Vishnu. The main shrine has an idol of Raghunathji in standing position facing the east direction. A Deula or conical roof crowns the sacred shrine of Rama. Apart from the chief deity, the temple also houses Sita, Lakshman, Badrinath, Adi Shankara, Shiva and Hanuman. The temple made its name in 4 of the 18 holy Puranas with the Saraswati river flowing directly below the idol of Lord Rama and on certain days, a small puddle of water is found near the deity. The temple was believed to have been established by Adi Shankarachya during the 8th century and expansions were made later by rulers of the Garhwal dynasty. The present temple structure is said to be established in 1835 by Maharaja Gulab Singh, the founder of the empire of Jammu and Kashmir. In summers, the temple is open from 5 am to 12 noon and then again between 5 to 9 pm while in the winter months, it is ope from 6 am to noon and between 4 to 8 pm. Dedicated to Goddess of Power, the Chandrabadani Temple enshrines an idol of the Goddess Sati along with ancient statues and iron trishuls placed outside the temple. The temple is atop the Chandrabadani Mountain, which is 2277 metres above sea level. Unlike other temples, the main shrine has no idol of the chief deity. Instead, Shri Yantra is engraved on a flat stone surface shaped like the back of a tortoise. Goddess Sati is worshipped in the form of Shri Yantra. Once a year, the temple holds a puja in a manner not seen anywhere else. The priest is blindfolded and a cloth canopy tied on the ceiling right above the yantra. The Dasharathachal Peak is another popular attraction here.

From Devprayag, we make our way 75 kms south to the temple town of Rishikesh.

Located in the foothills of the Himalayas where the Ganga and Chandrabhaga rivers meet, Rishikesh is a small town about 45 km south of Dehradun and located very close to Haridwar, Rishikesh also called Hrishikesh, is known as the Yoga Capital of the World as well as being the gateway to the Garhwal Himalayas and also a pilgrimage town and one of the holiest places for Hindus. Rishikesh is divided into two main areas, the downtown area known as Rishikesh town which is where the popular Triveni Ghat is situated. 2 km upstream from the popular Ram Jhula and Lakshman Jhula is the other side of Rishikesh where most of the popular ashrams, cafes, accommodation and tourists can be found. The city has hosted the annual International Yoga Festival on the first week of March since 1989.

The Neelkantha Mahadeva temple is one of the most revered Hindu sites dedicated to Lord Shiva, and is located about 20 odd km from the centre of the town. Visitors can also cross the Laxman Jhula to get to the temple. Pilgrims offer water from Ganga to this temple. One of the most ancient and sacred temples in Rishikesh, the Bharat Mandir’s presiding diety of Lord Vishnu carved out a single piece of Shaligram, a fossiled black shell with markings, was reinstalled by Adi Shankaracharya in the 8th century. The inner canopy of the temple contains Shree Yanthra while the architecture and interiors of the temple has been detailed in the ancient record of Kearkhand. The present structure was reconstructed on the ruins of the original temple destroyed by Tiamur Lang. The Trimbakeshwar or Tera Manzil Temple is a thirteen storey temple situated on the banks of river Ganga and located opposite the Lakshman Jhula. The temple enshrines several deities under one roof and is popular for its striking architecture. From the topmost storey, the temple also offers panoramic views of the town. Perched atop the Kunjapuri hill, the Kunjapuri Devi temple is dedicated to Goddess Parvathi. Besides being one of the fifty two Shaktipeeths in the state, the shrine is popular for its locale which offers panoramic views of the Shivalik range and the majestic peaks of Chaukhamba and Bandarpunch. The Raghunath temple is situated near the Triveni Ghat in the heart of the town and is dedicated to Lord Rama and his wife Goddess Sita. The temple premises also houses a tiny pond or kund known as Rishikund. The Virbhadra temple is a 1300-year-old temple dedicated to Lord Shiva in his fierce avatar which he took when his wife Goddess Sati, jumped into a burning yagya kund, to immolate herself because they were dishonoured by her father Daksha Prajapati, when he didn’t invite them for the yagya. The festival of Mahashivratri, the most important one here, is celebrated at the temple with great enthusiasm each year. A fair or a mela is also held at the temple on this occasion.

The Lakshman Jhula is a famous hanging bridge across the river Ganga that connects two villages, Tapovan and Jonk. Located 5 km to the northeast of the town, the bridge is made up of iron and is 450 feet long at a height of 70 feet from the river. Lakshman Jhula is well-known amongst tourists because it is believed that Lord Lakshman, the younger brother of Lord Rama, had crossed the river Ganga at this same site. The bridge is open from 5 am to 10 pm daily. Note that as of July 2019, this bridge is only accessible for pedestrians and both sides are blocked to prevent vehicles. Built in 1986, the Ram Jhula is a suspension bridge that connects Shivananda Nagar to Swargashram. The bridge spans 750 feet and offers a splendid bird’s eye view of the mighty Ganges. Situated on the banks of the holy river Ganges, Triveni Ghat is the biggest ghat in Rishikesh where the Ganga Maha Aarti happens every evening. Playing an essential role in Hindu mythology and is also mentioned in the Ramayan and Mahabharat, Triveni Ghat is also where the chattri of Lord Krishna was constructed and the ghat is considered to be the cremation ground for Lord Krishna. Devotees also make offerings to the river in the form of milk, while feeding the fishes in the ghat too. The evening aarti also called the Maha Aarti is conducted from 6 to 7 pm daily and is the most popular and well-attended rituals of the town. The Maha Aarti is performed by chanting bhajans in praise of the lord and is celebrated by beating electrifying drums and rhythmic bells. Devotees release small floating leaf boats with oil lamps or gleaming diyas in them. The entire river is dotted with these little burning flames and the beauty of yellow flames in the dark water under the twinkling night sky is unparalleled. Although the Ganga Aarti is performed at several ghats, the most popular ones are performed at the Parmath Niketan and Triveni Ghats. The prayers are made to Agni, the God of Fire.

Rishi Kund is a natural hot spring pond which is considered as a sacred water body and is believed to be filled with water only after a sage was blessed by River Yamuna. Locals also believe that Lord Rama had bathed in the kund during his exile and that the rivers, Ganges and Yamuna meet each other at this point. Muni ki Reti is considered as the gateway for the pilgrimage of the Char Dham. Literally meaning the sand of sages, Muni ki Reti is believed to be the place where King Bharat performed penance. Vashishta Gufa is an ancient cave where the human son of Lord Brahma, Sage Vashishta meditated. A legend states that the sage was extremely depressed after losing all his children and decided to commit suicide, but River Ganga didn’t allow him to die. He, therefore, decided to stay and meditate in the cave.

The alpine meadow of Kuari Pass has been attracting backpackers from around the globe for decades. Being in close proximity to Nanda Devi biosphere, Kuari Pass is at the center of the most remarkable regions of Garhwal known for its unique wild grandeur. In the background below the valley is the entrance to the formidable Rishi Gorge which until 1934 was considered un-penetrable. Kuari Pass is at a relative moderate altitude of 12,200 feet. The beautiful camping grounds of Gulling, Chitrakantha & Tali are the key attraction of the trek. The trails leading from Tali Top to Kuari Pass gives an impression of doing a full scaled Himalayan alpine expedition in truck loads of snow. At 380 m high, Kaudiyala is a popular rock climbing destination surrounded by dense forests. It also offers white river rafting tracks, and the sports is organized by the camping facilities around the place.

The Neer Garh waterfall is a beautiful narrow stream of cool water cascading down a rocky terrain in the midst of a dense green forest. It requires trekking a distance of about a kilometre through the forest and down a cliff to reach the waterfall. The Garud Chatti waterfalls is one of the most majestic and beautiful waterfalls in Rishikesh. Situated around 5 kms away from Lakshman Jhula, the waterfalls cascade down the Neelkanth Mahadev Temple. At the base of the trek to the waterfalls, there is also a revered Garud Temple. The Patna waterfalls is located next to the Patna village with the highlight of the waterfalls is also a limestone cave situated right next to it. The Himshail waterfall is popular for yoga and meditation practices because of the peaceful environment. There is also a Tat Baba Cave situated right next to it. The Phool Chatti waterfalls are located between the Garudchatti and Neer Garh waterfalls and are hidden away from view between dense trees and bushes.

Haridwar which lies just 25 km or a 45 minute drive from Rishikesh is our next destination.

Haridwar, considered to be among the seven holiest cities in India, is an ancient city situated on the right bank of the Ganga river, at the foothills of the Shivalik ranges. Dotted with temples, ashrams and narrow lanes across the city, Haridwar is one of the only four cities in India which can host the Kumbh Mela which takes place every 12 years and where millions of devotees take a dip in the holy Ganges. Brahma Kund, the spot where the the amrit or the elixir of immortality fell, is located at Har ki Pauri or the footsteps of the Lord and is considered to be the most sacred ghat of Haridwar where it’s believed that taking a dip in the holy Har Ki Pauri relieves a person of all their sins. Every evening, Haridwar witnesses a set of rituals for the famous Ganga Aarti at the Ghats where thousands of devotees come together to pray to the river. The modern name of the town has two spellings: Haridwar and Hardwar. Each of these names has its own connotation. In Sanskrit, Hari means Lord Vishnu, while dwar means gateway. So, Haridwar translates to The Gateway to Lord Vishnu and earns this name because it is typically the place where pilgrim’s start their journey to visit a prominent temple of Lord Vishnu – Badrinath. Similarly, Hara could also mean Lord Shiva and hence, Hardwar could stand for Gateway to Lord Shiva. Hardwar is also a typical place to start a pilgrim’s journey in order to reach Mount Kailash, Kedarnath, the northernmost Jyotirlinga and one of the sites of the smaller Char Dham pilgrimage circuit, all important places for worship for Hindus. According to legend, it was in Haridwar that Goddess Ganga descended when Lord Shiva released the mighty river from the locks of his hair. The River Ganga, after flowing for 253 km from its source at Gaumukh at the edge of the Gangotri Glacier, enters the Gangetic Plain for the first time at Haridwar, which gave the city its ancient name of Gangadwara.

Located near the Chandi Devi temple, the Gaurishankar Mahadev Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is in a beautiful location with the Ganges flowing next to the temple and the Himalayas as a fitting backdrop. Devotees believe that wishes get fulfilled by praying at the temple. The Bhuma Niketan shrine houses magnificent idols of several gods and goddesses but the highlight are the sculptures of Shiva and Parvati adorning the entrance gates of the shrine. Located on the Haridwar Rishikesh highway, the Doodhadhari Barfani temple is a cluster of several small shrines dedicated to various Hindu Gods and Goddesses. The temple is built of white marbles and has attractive interiors and elaborately carved exteriors. The Bilkeshwar Mahadev temple is situated in the valley of Billa Parvat near Har ki Pauri and is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati. It is believed that the site at which the temple sits is the same spot where Goddess Parvati worshipped Lord Shiva and he accepted to make her his wife. The temple complex also houses smaller shrines for Lord Hanuman, Lord Ganesha, Mata Rani and Mahadev. There is a Bilva tree located in the complex and it is a tradition to offer the Bilva leaves to Lord Shiva and do his abhishek with the water of the pious River Ganga.

Situated on the outskirts of the city in Ranipur near Haridwar, the Sureshwari Devi temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga. Located in Haripur Kalan, the Adbhut Mandir is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. The Chandi Devi temple is a charming temple dedicated to the Chanda Devi Goddess, perched on the Neel Parvat of the Shivalik Hills. Also known as Neel Parvat Teerth, the temple is one of the five pilgrimages of Haridwar and is also known as Siddha Peetha, a place where devotees worship to fulfil their desire. Pilgrims can also reach the temple zenith by the means of a ropeway, the view from which is exhilarating. The Mansa Devi temple dedicated to the goddess Mansa Devi, who is considered to be a form of Shakti and is believed to have emerged from Lord Shiva’s mind. This temple, which is one of the Panch Tirths or the five pilgrimages is also popularly known as Bilwa Tirth and is perched on the top of the Bilwa Parvat on the Sivalik Hills. The word Mansa means wish, and devotees believe that the goddess Mansa fulfils all the wishes of the dedicated devotee. The Bharat Mata Mandir is dedicated to India as a country and that’s how it gets its name as the name translates into the Mother India temple. The multi-storey temple is not a temple that worships gods or has any religious inclination, but one that stands for the many freedom fighters and patriots of the Indian Struggle for Independence. The temple stands at a height of 180 feet and has a total of 8 floors each with a specific theme. The temple has a massive map of the Mother India on the ground, denoting the statue of the mother of India depicted as a four-armed Hindu goddess wearing saffron-coloured robes, holding a book, sheaves of rice, a mala, and a white cloth. The statue has a design that indicates the Goddess of India for all the religious deities, freedom fighters and leaders.

Located in Kankhal, the Daksha Mahadev temple is one of the oldest temples for Shaivites. The chief deity of the temple is Lord Shiva and Goddess Sati and the temple is named after King Daksha Prajapati, the father of Goddess Sati. Also known as Daksheswara Mahadev Temple, it houses the Yajna Kund and the Daksha ghat on the left of the main temple where devotees take a dip in the holy Ganga River. The walls of Daksheswara Mahadev temple depict the various episodes of the yajna story of King Daksha and the entire history of the temple. A replica of the Vaishno Devi temple in Kashmir, the Vaishno Devi Temple of Haridwar is marked by tunnels and caves that lead to the inner sanctum containing the shrine of Goddess Vaishno Devi. The divine temple houses three deities, Lakshmi, Kaali and Saraswati. Apart from its architecture and tunnels, this temple bears no resemblance to the original Vaishno Devi Temple. After climbing a flight of steep stairs and crawling through a narrow tunnel, the devotees are blessed with the sight of the idol of Maa Vaishno Devi and the replicas of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India. This is also one of the Shakti Peethas temple. Built in the 11th century, the Maya Devi temple is one of the oldest in India and is dedicated to Goddess Maya and is one of the three Shaktipeeths, believed to be the place where the heart and navel of Goddess Sati fell. Goddess Maya is considered to be a form of Adi Shakti, who is believed to be the Goddess of divine power. Maya Devi is considered by many as the chief Goddess of the city and no pilgrimage is complete without meeting her and taking her blessings. Along with goddess Maya, the sacred temple is graced by the idols of goddess Kamakhya and Goddess Kali who are also a form of Adi parashakti. It is a common belief that the holy temple is a Siddha peeth which means that the presiding goddess has the power to fulfil any desires or wishes of the person seeking her blessings.

Regarded as one of the most sacred Ghats in Haridwar and India, Har Ki Pauri is a revered landmark and is a highly visited place to seek the blessings of the Holy Ganga. Literally translating to the Steps of Lord Shiva, a dip in the Ganges at the Har Ki Pauri is believed to wash away one’s sins and according to mythology, it is one of the four places where the drops of elixir were accidentally spilled by the celestial bird Garuda. Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu are believed to have visited the place in Vedic times with the large footprints on a stone wall believed to have belonged to Lord Vishnu. The river is filled in a golden hue of countless diyas offered by devotees floating along the river. The Ganga Aarti that takes place at the bank of river at the Har Ki Pauri ghat is a ritual of light and sound where the priests perform prayers with bowls of fire and the ringing of the temple bells. A sight to see and experience, devotees float diyas or small candles and flowers on the river. The Saptarishi or the seven sages Ashram was established by Guru Goswami Dutt in 1943. Famous for having hosted 7 great sages, Kashyapa, Vashishta, Atri, Vishwamitra, Jamadagi, Bharadwaja and Gautam, this ashram is well known for its tranquil atmosphere ideal for meditation. It is also believed that Ganga split herself into seven currents at this spot so the sages were not disturbed by the sound of gushing water. Because of this, the ashram is also called as Sapt Sarovar or Sapt Rishi Kund. Vishnu Ghat is among the most serene and tranquil ghats of the city and is situated close to Hari ki Pauri. Comparatively less crowded and visited mostly by Vaishnavites as this ghat is named after Lord Vishnu. Being one of the cleanest ghats in Haridwar, people often come to this ghat to take a dip in the holy River Ganga and absolve their sins. The Birla Ghat is an ancient ghat located adjacent to Vishnu Ghat. Here, there is a flight of stairs that lead towards the water, enabling devotees to take a dip with security barriers installed near the flight of stairs to prevent people from drowning while bathing in the Ganga River’s strong water current. Gau Ghat is located on the southern part of Subhash Ghat and is relatively less crowded. The ashes of Mahatma Gandhi, Indira Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru were cremated at this ghat. It is a common belief among Hindus that killing a cow is a sin equal to killing a Brahman. Devotees visit Gau Ghat to cleanse themselves of the sin of killing a cow, hence the name. Believed to have been constructed in the 18th century by the Maratha queen Ahilyabai Holkar, Kushavarta Ghat is considered the most sacred and auspicious ghat of the city. The final rites and rituals of the deceased are performed at the banks of the river including the Shraddha rites, after which the devotees take a dip in the holy waters of the Ganges.

Our next destination is the Roopkund Lake.

Perched at an elevation of 5,029 m above the sea level in the lap of Trishul Peak and Nanda Ghunti is a place full of mystery, Roopkund. Also called as Mystery Lake, owing to the discovery of human skeletons and horses remains from Paleolithic age here. Surrounded by mesmerizing scenic beauty of lush green mountains and rocky glaciers, the lake is a perfect end to a trek. The human and horse skeletons found around Roopkund are believed to be about 500-600 years old and the lake remains frozen almost throughout the year. The trekking trail to Roopkund in itself is quite fascinating including the trek through rustic villages, bewitching alpine meadows and a beautiful sacred pond, Bedni Kund with its crystal clear water.

The Nelong Valley lies 45km away from the Indo-Tibetan border and is considered to be one of the most thrilling mountaineering treks in India. At a height of 11,000ft, the view from here is breathtaking. The valley offers a clear and surreal view of the Tibetan Plateau. Gartang Gali, a wooden walkway, is a main attraction of the valley said to have been built in the 17th century. It was known as one of the main routes for trade between India and China in 1962. The valley was closed to visitors upto 2015 and has only been recently reopened. Controlled by the Indian Government very stringently because it used to be a route for trade between India and China till the 1960s, this route, popularly known as Gartang Gali, was originally discovered by the Pesawar’s of Pakistan in the 17th century. Visitors wanting to get to Nelong Valley need to get a permit from a court and produce a fitness certificate in Uttarkarshi, the closest town. The valley is only open to domestic tourists.

The Gangotri National Park owes its name to the Gangotri Glacier. Challenging treks, crushed snow, beaten trails, whistling woods, and ruffled leaves are what makes this park unique. One will easily encounter some of the oldest settlements, the holiest pilgrimage sites and the source of the river Ganga while traversing through the Park. Idyllically situated in the natural surroundings of the Garhwal region, this National Park is a famous high-altitude Sanctuary. The park is spread over an area of 2390 sq km in the upper catchment of Bhagirathi river and was established in the year 1989. The Bhagirathi river flows from inside the park, and it provides nourishment to countless bird species and animals. Legends from the epic Mahabharata come to life here and places associated with the epic seen during treks or visits to the temples in this region. The northeastern part of the National Park shares an international boundary with China. The Park includes a considerable stretch of mountains clad in snow and glaciers and visitors can find variations in biomes from subalpine conifer forest to Himalayan alpine shrubs and meadows. The Park is surmised to be a pivotal link between the Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary and the Govind Pashu Vihar and . It comes under the biogeographical zone 2A of West Himalaya and provides a home-like feel to the wild creatures inhabiting the region. The National Park has the typical high-altitude ecosystem and is influenced by the trans-Himalayan elements to an extent. A unique feature of this National Park is the Alpine scrub. This park is famous for its myriad activities. From rugged terrains to adventurous sites, this National Park has everything to offer. Nelong Valley, Bhojbasa, Gaumukh trek, Tapovan Trek, Kedartal, Gangotri Temple, Chirbasa, Gangotri town, Bhoj Kharak, Kedar Kharak and Gangotri glacier are the prominent spots here. The entry fee for the park per person for three days is INR 150 for Indians and INR 600 for foreigners. For each extra day, Indians are will need to pay INR 50 per day and foreigners INR 250 per day. There is no charge for a camera and video camera for non commercial purposes while if you are there for a commercial use, its INR 500 for an Indian and INR 1500 for foreigners. To enter the park, visitors will need to get a permit from the District Forest Officer at Uttarkashi before entering the Park and on the form the areas to be visited has to be specified with the dates. The permit is then given which needs to be submitted at the Forest Check Post.

The Kedarnath Wild Life Sanctuary, also called the Kedarnath Musk Deer Sanctuary’s primary purpose is to protect the endangered Himalayan musk deer. Consisting of an area of 975 sq km, it is the largest protected area in the western Himalayas and is famous for the alpine musk deer, Himalayan Thar, Himalayan Griffon, Himalayan Black bear, Snow Leopard and other flora and fauna. It is internationally important for the diversity of its flora and fauna, particularly of the ungulate species. Located in the Himalayan Highlands with an elevation ranging from 1,160 m to the Chaukhamba peak at 7,068 m . The sanctuary straddles a geographically diverse landscape and transitional environment. The sanctuary takes its name from the famous Hindu temple of Kedarnath which is just outside its northern border. The entire 14 km route from Gaurikund to the Kedarnath temple passes through the sanctuary. The sanctuary is reputed to be one of the world’s richest bio-reserves. It is host to temperate forests in the middle altitudes with higher elevations dotted by coniferous, sub-alpine and alpine forests, and further up by alpine grasslands and high-altitude Bugyals. The sanctuary is reputed to have many high value medicinal and aromatic plant species, of which 22 species are rare and endangered. Most visitors to the sanctuary are mostly Indian pilgrims on their way to the various temples as the approach to Kedarnath Temple is only through the sanctuary with a few international tourists. Visiting season at the sanctuary is from April to June and again from September to November.

The Valley of Flowers is near Badrinath and was discovered in 1931 and today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its wild untamed blooms surrounded by white peaks. At the meeting point of the Himalayan ranges, Zanskar and the Western and Eastern Himalayas, the valley of flowers discovered by Frank S Smith in 1931 is famous for its exotic varieties of medicinal herbs. It is believed that Lord Hanuman brought the Sanjivani herb from here to the ailing Lakshmana injured in the battle with Ravana in Sri Lanka. Combined with Nanda Devi National Park, the two of them together constitute the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve. Initially known as Bhyundar Valley, its name was changed to Valley of Flowers by the British mountaineer Frank S Smythe in the year 1931. Gifted with a diverse range of flora and fauna, this picturesque beauty is one of its kind. No human settlements are present inside the park and grazing is completely banned. Situated in the transition zone between Eastern and Western Himalayan flora, seven restricted-range bird species are seen in this part of the Himalayas. The entire valley is covered with flowers of every colour and type which gives a magical quality to the place. It has more than 650 species of flowers present including Blue Poppy, Cobra Lily, and Brahmakamal. The area is also home to several rare and engendered animals. A diverse population of fauna can be found in the valley including the Asiatic black bear, blue sheep, brown bear, blue sheep, black and brown bears, and yellow-throated marten. A variety of birds too can be found here including the Himalayan golden eagle, Himalayan snow cock, sparrow, snow pigeon, and Himalayan monal. Spread over an area of 71,210 hectares, the park has a buffer zone surrounding it measuring 514,857 hectares. Since the valley of flowers is covered by the Himalayan mountains, it remains covered with snow most of the year. Heavy rainfall and dense fog can be witnessed at the place during the late summer months as well. The ideal time to visit the place is from mid-July to mid-August as colourful flowers start growing in this season with the settling snow and the climate is pleasant with warm days and cold nights. The valley opens up on June 01 and closes on 21 October and is open from 7 am to 5 pm with the last entry inside at 2 pm. The entry fee for a three day pass is INR 150 for Indian tourists and INR 600 for foreigners with each additional day costing Indians INR 50 and foreigners INR 150.

In proximity to Nanda Devi, the second highest peak in India, the Nanda Devi National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. It is home to some of the rarest and unique high-altitude flora and fauna in the world with the breathtaking views, coupled with the richness of biosphere, making this national park unique amongst all others. Given the national park status in 1982, the park is one of the most important ecological hotspots of the world and is home to a variety of birds, mammals, plants, trees and butterflies. The trek to the base camp at the park is considered to be one of the most challenging ones. The park is open to visitors for only six months in the year, from 1 May to 31 October. The Valley of Flowers, Badrinath Temple and Hemkund Sahib, located in the vicinity of the national park are famous tourist destinations. The increasing popularity and fame of the region led to an excess of expeditions here, and consequently, the amount of ecological damage to this pure and pristine area also increased. Following this, it was decided to shut down the national park in 1984 and reopened in May 2013, but under extremely stringent rules and policies, such as entry to only two groups of five people in a single day, and no more than the visits of four such groups each week. Abundant in wildlife and home to a wide variety of plants and animals of various species, the forest cover in the park is being restricted to the Rishi Gorge, the primary vegetation comprises of fir, birch and juniper. In the inner parts of the sanctuary, the conditions are comparatively drier, with almost zero vegetation near the Nanda Devi Glacier. A total of 312 species of flora are found here, of which around 17 are considered to be rare. Animal species like the snow leopard, Himalayan black bear, brown bear, leopard, Himalayan musk deer, Common Langur, Goral and Bharal dominate the area. Approximately 80 avifaunal species have been found here, including Indian tree pipit, Blue-fronted Redstart, Rose Finches and Ruby Throat.

The Govind Pashu Vihar Wildlife Sanctuary came into existence in 1955 as a part of the Upper Tons Valley. The area, where this national park lies, is rich in its past and certain legends are associated with it as well. During the colonial rule, the British used this area to extract timber, providing forest rest houses and building roads throughout the region for easier access. Post-independence, there was a decrease in timber extraction. The name of this wildlife sanctuary was Tons and it was later renamed after an eminent Indian politician and freedom fighter, Govind Ballabh Pant. Lying in the higher reaches of the Garhwal Himalayas, the park covers a total area of 958 sq km and manages the Snow Leopard Project started by the Government of India. his project aims to provide special conservation measures to protect the snow leopard. This endangered predator is threatened by the decline in wild animals on which to prey, by being poached for its skin and body parts, and by being killed by farmers to protect their livestock. It is one of the remaining strongholds in the Himalayas of the bearded vulture, a vital ecological catalyst. The altitude in the park ranges from 1,400 to 6,323 metres above sea level. Within the park is the Har Ki Doon valley which is a known spot for trekking, while the Ruinsiyara high altitude lake is also a popular destination. The sanctuary contains western Himalayan broadleaf forests at its lowest elevations, transitioning to western Himalayan subalpine conifer forests and western Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows at its highest elevations.

Encompassing the Shivalik mountain ranges, the Rajaji National Park is abundantly rich in flora and fauna and is famous for its wildlife, especially tigers and elephants. Named in the honour of C. Rajagopalchari, this national park is enriched with valuable fossils which date back to 10 million back. The sanctuary is a unique combination of three sanctuaries, namely Chilla, Motichur, and Rajaji. After a name change in 2015, the national park is now known as the Rajaji Tiger Reserve. The Chilla Sanctuary is huddled against the eastern bank of the Ganga, about 10 Kms from Haridwar. The Motichur Sanctuary is 60 km fromDehradun and is also known as Kansro. It’s best known for its leopard sightings. The forest area is popular for sal, teak and other shrubs and the park is predominantly formed from dense green jungles, forming a habitat for a number of animals. An amalgamation of three different forests with distinctive life forms, Rajaji national park houses an enormous variety of land and fauna. The park is at the northwestern limit of distribution for both elephants and tigers in India. The park can be explored through a jeep or elephant safari. Asian elephants, tigers, king cobras, panthers, and other animals can be found here including migratory birds after the monsoons. The tiger reserve earns its name from Shri C. Rajgopalachari, a popular leader, first and last Governor General of independent India, and a revered statesman. He was famous among the masses as Rajaji. It was his wish to turn the vast stretch of wilderness into a sanctuary as he was awed with its diverse flora and fauna. That’s how Rajaji Sanctuary came into being and later got its name to the unified Rajaji National Park. Entrance fees to the park per person is INR 750 for Indians and INR 1500 for foreigners. For the jeep safari its INR 1500 per jeep and INR 150 per person. The safari timings are 6 to 11 am for the morning session, 11:30 am to 1 pm for birdwatching sessions inside the forest, and 2:30 to 5:30 pm for the afternoon sessions. The timings change depending on the season.

The oldest national park in India, the Jim Corbett National Park is set amidst the foothills of the Himalayas near Nainital. Known for housing the endangered Bengal tiger, it is part of the larger Corbett Tiger Reserve. Famous for its wildlife safaris, the park has multiple resorts set on the riverside. Home to more than 650 species of rare and migratory birds, it is a haven for bird watchers. The most popular attraction at Corbett National Park is Dhikala, a forest lodge located on the border of Patil Dun Valley, which is known for the stunning location and rich wildlife. Only 180 vehicles are allowed to enter the national park in a day and the park remains closed from July to October during the monsoons. However, the Jhirna, Dhela and Sitabani tourism zones remain open for tourists throughout the year. Safaris are organised in all the zones by two shifts by the forest officials in all the zones. Established in 1936 as Hailey National Park, the Jim Corbett National Park is named after Jim Corbett, a famous hunter and naturalist. The park is spread over an area of more than 500 sq km and is divided into 5 zones: Bijrani, Dhikala, Jhirna, Domunda and Sonanandi. The park jeep safaris, elephant safaris and canter safaris with the jeep safari being the most popular one and is allowed in all the five tourism zones. It can carry six adults and two children along with the driver and a guide. Indians pay INR 4500 per jeep while foreigner pay INR 9000 per jeep. The jeep safari is available between 6 to 9:30 am and then again between 3 to 6 pm. The canter safari is the only option to explore the Dhikala zone which is inhabited by the most number of Bengal tigers. The canter safari, which is an open-air vehicle, larger than a jeep is conducted in two shifts, and the best option for large groups of 11-12 people. The price for the canter per person is INR 1500 for Indians and INR 3000 for foreigners and the safari is open between 6 to 11:50 am in the mornings and from 12 noon to 6 pm in the evenings. Tickets for the safari has to be booked 45 days in advance by Indian and SAARC visitors while foreigners have to book it 90 days in advance with their passport details. In order to enter any part of the Corbett National Park, a permit needs to be obtained from the forest department with the permit for the day safari obtained directly at the entry gate of the zone to be visited. The mesmerizing and luscious green coverage of Jim Corbett is credited to the flowering trees which can be found in huge numbers. The park is home to a significant population of endangered and critically endangered species of animal including the Asiatic elephant and Ghariyal, but the star attraction of this reserve is the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger. The park also has an astounding 600 species of birds.

This series on Uttarakhand, the last for 2020 comes at a time when travel is not possible. I now know why it is called Dev Bhoomi or the Land of the Gods and hopefully I get to visit all these wonderful places once in my lifetime. I hope this journey through the state enthralled you as much as it did to me!

Travel Bucket List: India – Utarakhand Part 5

Posted on December 25, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Known as Uttarakhand’s Kashi, Bageshwar is a small town situated on the confluence of the Saryu and Gomati rivers and surrounded by the mountains of Bhileshwar and Nileshwar to its east and west and by the Suraj Kund in the north and Agni Kund in the south. The Baghnath temple Baghnath dedicated to Lord Shiva finds a mention in the Puranas and the Shivratri and Uttrayani fairs are celebrated in a big way here. Bageshwar was a major trade mart between Tibet and Kumaun, and was frequented by the Bhotia traders, who bartered Tibetan wares, wool, salt and Borax in exchange for carpets and other local products in Bageshwar. The trade routes were, however, closed after the Indo-China War of 1962.

The Bagnath Temple in the middle of the town of Bageshwar derives its name from the incident of the celebrated sage Markandeya being visited Lord Shiva in the form of a tiger. Bagnath, literally translates to the Tiger Lord, Constructed in 1450 by the then ruler of Kumaon, Laxmi Chand, the temple stands at the breathtaking point where the river Gomati and Sarayu converge. Every year in the memory of the sage being visited by the god, a fair is held thronged by thousands of people who come to take a dip in the holy waters. The entrance is head lined by huge bells, which reverberate throughout the day, owing to the wish granting ability of the tiger-god. About 8 km from the town, one can pay homage to one of the few holy shrines in the city, that are located inside a natural cave, which is the Gauri Udiyar. About 2 km away from the town, the Chandika Temple is known to attract hoards of followers during the nine day long festival of the Hindu female deity, Goddess Durga. Vijaypur, located about 30 km away from Bageshwar, is a place where people come to enjoy the view. Vijaypur is surrounded by many peaks and has nice plain areas around. A tiny hamlet near Bageshwar, Bigul offers amazing views of the Himalayas including the Nanda Devi and Panchachuli peaks. This place is also important historically as Britishers used Biguls which is a form of instrument used for announcements here to call nearby villagers in order to collect taxes from them. The Dholinaag Temple is an important temple for the locals and is located at the highest point of the village.

Our next destination is Chamoli which is about 230 km from Bageshwar.

Also referred to as the Abode of Gods, Chamoli sits in the lap of nature and has a strong bond with spirituality, as seen from local legends. Home to temples across the entire village, this beautiful place is also renowned as the birth place of the Chipko Movement. Due to its surroundings, Chamoli attracts explorers and nature-lovers. Chamoli’s natural trails and laid-back lifestyle make it a perfect destination for all those who want to take a break. Mana, the neighbouring village, is power packed with a similar atmospehere, promising nature, Hindu shrines and some amazing trek trails.

The Vasundhara Waterfall is a captivating sight and offers bewitching views of the mountain peaks and glaciers. Situated 5km from Mana, it is said that is you have committed a sin, the fall will divert that away from you. Gopeshwar is a small scenic town known for its scenic beauty and ancient Hindu temples. Perched at an elevation of 1,400 m above the sea level, here visitors can enjoy the splendid views of the Garhwal Himalayas laden with the dense vegetation of the deodar and pine trees that surround this small town. According to the local beliefs, Gopeshwar is named after Lord Krishna. Gopeshwar is famous for its Shiva temple, Anusuya Devi temple, Chandika Devi temple and the Gopinath temple. The small town holds a great mythological and religious value for local Garhwalis. The hamlet is surrounded by four famous temples dedicated to the Hindu gods – Tungnath, Anasuya Devi, Rudranath, and Badrinath. The Tungnath Temple is the highest temple of Lord Shiva in the world. The Anusuya Devi Temple is dedicated to Goddess Sati and is considered to be one of the avatars of Mata Parvati. Rudranath is another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva surrounded by the holy kund with the backdrop of mighty Himalayas. Badrinath is the holy shrine dedicated to Lord Vishnu and is also one of the temples of the famous Char Dham Yatra. Due to the number of holy shrines, many devotees visit Chamoli and offer their prayers to these religious places. The Gopinath temple, built by Raja Saggar is dedicated to Lord Shiva. As per legend, the king saw a cow squirting milk on the Shiva Lingam daily and he constructed a temple there. One of the famous Panch Kedars, Kalpeshwar is famous for the Kalpeshwar Temple which, is dedicated to Lord Shiva in one of his five forms or Kedars. Perched at an altitude of 2400 meters, Kalpeshwar is a breathtaking place with amazing views of the Himalayan peaks and is quite an experience. The last Indian settlement on the road to Tibet, Mana stands at an elevation of 10,500 feet. Winters in Mana go as low as -17 degrees celsius at Mana. Also famous from the Indian epic of Mahabharata, Mana in Uttarakhand is believed to be the same spot the Pandavas walked through the village before Bheem built a bridge on River Saraswati for Draupadi to cross the river. The Mana Pass was the ancient trade route between Tibet and India which from Badrinath to Guge town in Tibet. The trade route was fully functional till 1951 when it was shut down by the Chinese, though in 1954, via an agreement pilgrims and other travellers were allowed to travel this path. Deo Tal is the sacred lake situated atop the Mana Pass. The lake is considered holy and of great religious importance by the Hindus since it is believed that the mythical Saraswati river originated from here. You can also see Rajas Tal and Nag Tal in the vicinity. Known as the Lake of the Gods in Sanskrit, the lake remains frozen for most part of the year and is surrounded by icy peaks.

A short drive from Mana lies the holy town of Badrinath which is less than 5 km south of Mana.

Getting its name from the Badrinath temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the town is a major pilgrimage site re-established by Adi Shankara in the 8th century. A sacred site for followers of the Vaishnav tradition, the temple is open for six months every year, between the end of April and the beginning of November, because of the extreme weather conditions in the region. It is one of the four Char Dham and Chota Char Dham pilgrimage yatras and is one of the most visited pilgrimages in India. Placed between Nar and Narayan mountain ranges, Badrinath Temple is situated in the backdrop of the mighty Neelkanth mountain and is known for stunning natural beauty. The temple has been repeatedly destroyed by earthquakes and avalanches. As late as WWI, the town consisted only of 20-odd huts used by the temple’s staff, but the site drew thousands each year and up to 50,000 on its duodecennial festivals which occurs every twelve years. Situated at the height of 10,279 feet, there is no historical record about the temple, but there is a mention of the presiding deity Badrinath in Vedic scriptures and according to some accounts, the temple was a Buddhist shrine till the 8th century when Adi Shankara converted it to a Hindu temple. The temple houses a black stone idol of Lord Vishnu which is 1m tall and is considered to be one of the 8 swayam vyakta kshetras or self-manifested statues of Vishnu. It also finds its mention in the 108 Divya Desams devoted to Lord Vishnu in India. The temple is closed for worship on the auspicious day of bhatridwityia in October. On the day of the closure, an Akhanda Jyoti lamp is lit to last for six months and the image of Badrinath is transferred to Narasimha temple at Jyotirmath. Badrinath reopens on Akshaya Tritiya, an auspicious day in April every year. Badri refers to a berry that was apparently said to grow abundantly in the area, and nath means Lordor Lord of as per context in which it is referred. Badri is also the Sanskrit name for the Indian Jujube tree, which has an edible berry. Some scriptural references refer to Jujube trees being abundant in Badrinath. The Badrinath Temple has a Tapt Kund, a hot sulphur spring which is considered to have medicinal values. The river Alaknanda is known to originate from here and the vibrant festivals of Mata Murti Ka Mela and the Badri Kedar festivals give you another reason to visit the temple. Badrinath is accessible by road and therefore driving up to this pilgrim spot is not difficult.

Charanpaduka: With imprints of what is believed to be Lord Vishnu’s footprints, Charanpaduka is a rock at a height of 3,380 ft, located 3 km from Badrinath on Narayan Parvat, reached after an arduous trek. This boulder is deemed as a religious site visited by hundreds each year as it is believed that Lord Vishnu set his foot first on earth here. It is believed that Lord Vishnu descended on earth from his celestial abode, also known as Vaikuntha and his steps were on the hill called Narayan Parvat, near Badrinath and left an everlasting imprint of his feet. There is also a legend traced to the Bhagwat Puran, where Uddhav, a nobleman in Lord Krishna’s court meditates for a benediction from Lord Vishnu so that he can get rid of his wrongdoings, Vishnu eventually comes down to bless him with his footprint.

Neelkanth: Also known as Nilkantha, Neelakant, Nilkanth or Nilkanta, the Neelkanth is a major peak in Garhwal. At a height of 6507 ml, it is one of the most important and religiously revered peaks of the region due to its close proximity to Badrinath. It overlooks the lovely valley of the Alaknanda River. The snow-covered peak rises dramatically against the background of the crisp blue sky and presents one of the most beautiful sights that the region had to offer. Neelkanth lies in the midst of a medley of glaciers. The Satopanth Glacier lies on the northwest side of Nilkantha, while the Panpatia Glacier lies to the southwest, and feeds the Khirao Ganga, a stream running under the south of the peak. To the west of the peak, lies the Gangotri Glacier and its adjacent peaks while the Nanda Devi groups and Kamet lie across the Alaknanda Valley. Nilakantha’s origin may be seen as Nila means blue, Kantha means throat which is Hindu deity Shiva’s many epithets. As per Hindu mythology, there were initially no mountains on the spot where Nilkantha stands today. There was an old route between Kedarnath and Badrinath and the worshiper of the two temples worshipped them in one day. This continued for a long time until due to some sins of the worshiper, Lord Shiva became displeased with him and stood blocking the way as a huge sky-kissing mountain, which is said to be modern Nilkantha.

Tapt Kund: Believed to be the home of Lord Agni, the God of Fire,Tapt Kund is a natural hot water spring near the Badrinath Temple, heating to 45 degrees celsius. Located by the Alaknanda riverbank, visitors can take therapeutic baths here. The water of the kund is believed to have medicinal properties, curing various skin diseases. Devotees take a dip in the Tapt Kund before visiting Badrinath Temple. Known to purify the soul, pilgrims flock to this Kund to relieve themselves of their sins, known as the Agni Teerth. Mythologically believed to have originated from Lord Shiva’s Kapala or head, the Kund’s thermal energy is said to be much greater than most water bodies and the kund bathing area has separate arrangements for men and women.

Bheem Pul: A natural stone bridge on the river Saraswati, Bheem Pul is believed to be discovered by Bheem, one of the Pandav brothers while they were passing by. Some say the bridge was created by a stone Bheem threw between the mountains to create a path to cross the river. Nevertheless, the stunning natural bridge and the fierce river Saraswati gushing through it is a breathtaking sight.

Narad Kund: A hot water spring and holy site near Badrinath on the recess of the Alaknanda river, Narad Kund is believed to be the place from where Adi Sankaracharya recovered the idol of Lord Vishnu. An important point in the Badrinath Yatra, the devotees take a dip in Narad Kund before visiting the Badrinath Temple. Narad Kund is situated close to the Tapt Kund and gets its hot water from the Gauri Shila. Named after the sage Narad Muni who wrote the Narada Bhakti Sutra here, the beautiful surroundings attract visitors all year round.

Saraswati River: An important part of Hinduism, the Saraswati river has been mentioned in several Vedic scriptures as the milky way that leads to afterlife or immortality. It is named after Saraswati, the Goddess of Wisdom and is a tributary of the Alaknanda river which further merges with river Ganga amidst the breathtaking natural surroundings.

Vyas Gufa: A sacred place in Mana, Vyas Gufa is where Maharishi Ved Vyas documented Mahabharata with the help of Lord Ganesha. Many other Puranas, Sutras and Veda were also composed by Maharishi Ved Vyas in this cave. A unique feature of the cave is the roof that resembles the pages of a script.

Ganesh Gufa: A naturally formed cave located at Mana, Ganesh Gufa is believed to be where Maharishi Ved Vyasa dictated and Lord Ganesha wrote the Mahabharata. The cave and the mesmerising meadows that surround it also attract nature lovers and photographers.

Brahma Kapal: The place where Lord Brahma is said to live even today, Brahma Kapal is the place where it is said that those who perform funeral rituals for the deceased in their family themselves attain nirvana here. Many visit the sacred site to immerse the ashes of their deceased family member in river Alaknanda, on the banks of which Brahma Kapal is located.

Yogadhyan Badri Temple: Considered the abode of Lord Kubera, the God of wealth and Lord Udhava, the Yogadhyan Badri temple is one of the seven badris. The idol of the presiding deity, Lord Vishnu is seen in a meditative pose and is believed to be installed by the Emperor Pandu, the father of the Pandavas.

Alka Puri: The source of the river Alaknanda, the majestic Alka Puri glacier with the breathtaking mountain peaks surrounding it is a treat to the eyes. Alka Puri also has a great religious significance in India as it is believed to be the holy abode of Lord Kuber, the Gandharvas and the Yakshas.

Mata Murti Temple: Dedicated to the mother of twin brothers, Lord Badrinath and Nara, the Mata Murti Temple is a sacred Hindu temple. Lord Badrinath is also known as Narayan. It is believed that Mata Murti prayed with utmost dedication to Lord Vishnu and requested him to take birth from her womb as his next incarnation. Lord Vishnu, pleased with her devotion, took birth in the form of the twins. Therefore, praying to the Goddess is believed to free one from the sufferings of the materialistic life. A fair is held every year in September at the temple on the day of Shravan Dwadashi in the honour of the Goddess.

Pandukeshwar: Located at an elevation of 6000 feet, Pandukeshwar is a sacred site for the Hindus as it is believed that this is where the father of the Pandavas worshipped Lord Shiva. The Vasudev Temple in Pandukeshwar is believed to be built by the Pandavas.

Sheshnetra: It is believed that Lord Vishnu took retreat here on Ananta Shesha. A boulder marked with the eye of Ananta Shesha is believed to have the genuine imprint. Sheshanetra is also believed to protect the region and the shrine of Lord Badrinath.

Satopanth Lake: An enchanting water body surrounded by beautiful snow peaked mountains, the Satopanth Lake is located at an altitude of 15,000 feet above sea level and is considered to be religiously important to the locals. They believe, on a particularly auspicious day, Lord Brahma, Vishnu and Lord Maheshwar bathe in the sacred waters. The natural terrain also serves as a perfect location for adventure activities, especially trekking and hiking.

After the holy temple town of Badrinath, let’s make our way to yet another holy place, this time of those who adhere to the Sikh faith, the Hemkund Sahib.

At a distance of 12 km as the crow flies, Hemkund Sahib, formally known as Gurudwara Shri Hemkund Sahib Ji, is a Sikh place of worship and pilgrimage site devoted to Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru, and finds mention in Dasam Granth, a work presumed dictated by Guruji himself, but insufficiently verified, where mythological components exist in the work. With its setting of a glacial lake surrounded by seven mountain peaks, each adorned by a Nishan Sahib on its cliff, it is located in the Himalayas at an elevation of 4,160 meters. Hemkund is a Sanskrit name derived from Hem meaning snow and Kund meaning bowl. The Dasam Granth says this is the place where Pandu Raja practiced Yoga and that in a former life, Guru Gobind Singh meditated intensely at Hemkund on Mahakal Kalika. Hemkund is inaccessible from October through April because of snowbound paths and glaciers. Sikh pilgrims arrive in May and set to work to repair the damage to the path over the winter, which tradition is called kar seva or selfless service, a concept which forms an important tenet of the Sikh faith.

Travelling another 53 km west brings us to another holy temple town, the town of Kedarnath.

The most remote of the four Chota Char Dham sites, Kedarnath is located in the Himalayas, about 3,583 m above sea level near the Chorabari Glacier, the source of the river Mandakini, and is flanked by snow-capped peaks, most prominently the Kedarnath mountain. Kedarnath is the most important among the 12 Jyotirlingas in India dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Kedarnath Temple can only be reached from Gaurikund through a trek and remains open only for six months from April to November, due to heavy snowfall in the region the rest of the months. During the winters from November to May, the diety is shifted from the Kedarnath Temple to Ukhitmath and is worshipped there. Kedar is another name of Lord Shiva, the protector, and the destroyer, and it’s believed that a journey to Kedarnath provides one moksha or salvation. The present Kedarnath Temple is believed to be re-constructed by Adi Shankaracharya, and was initially built by the Pandavas thousand years ago from enormous stone slabs over a large rectangular dais. The name Kedarnath means the lord of the field and is derived from the Sanskrit words kedara for field and natha for lord. Kedarnath has been a pilgrimage centre since ancient times. One of the earliest references to Kedarnath occurs in the Skanda Purana, which names Kedara or Kedarnath as the place where Shiva released the holy waters of Ganga from his matted hair, resulting in the formation of the Ganges river. It is believed by some that Adi Shankaracharya died near Kedarnath, though others believe he died at Kanchi and there are ruins of a monument marking the purported resting place of Adi Shankaracharya here at Kedarnath. The town suffered extensive destruction during June 2013 from flash floods caused by torrential rains in the state.

Kedarnath Temple: The Kedarnath Temple was built around a thousand years ago with massive stone slabs and stands on a raised rectangular platform. It covers an area of approximately 3 sq. km. Before the main temple, there is a low roofed hall which has images of Parvati and the five Pandavas. The walls are adorned with figures of other deities from Mahabharat. Outside the temple door, there is also a huge statue of Nandi bull which is also worshipped by the tourists and in the main temple, a conical rock is worshipped as Lord Shiva. It is believed that Kedarnath temple had been revived by Adi Shankaracharya many centuries ago. It is believed that Pandavas, after the battle of Kurukshetra, felt guilty for killing their Kaurava cousins. So, they wanted Lord Shiva to absolve their sins but Lord Shiva was annoyed with them. The Pandavas first went to Kashi to meet Shiva where they learnt that he was in the Himalayas. They proceeded for the Himalayas too but miffed Shiva did not want to absolve their sins easily. Therefore, he disguised himself as a bull and went to Guptakashi. The Pandavas reached Guptakashi too and spotted a unique looking bull. Bheema, one of the Pandavas, grabbed its tail and the bull was disintegrated in different directions. It is believed that its hump fell in Kedarnath and hence, the Kedarnath Temple was created. Another legend was when Shiva appeared before the worshippers Nara-Narayan, they requested him to stay there in his pure form for human welfare. Therefore, Shiva decided to reside as a Jyoti in the snow-clad Himalayas in a place known as Kedar. That is why he is also called Kedarnath or Kedareshwara. The temple did not suffer any major damage during the disastourus flood of 2013. In what can only be called a miraculous act, a huge rock got stuck behind the temple and protected it from the destructive floods. The temple unbelievably withstood the calamity, suffering only a small crack in one of its four walls. But the entire valley suffered a huge loss of life and property.

Bhairavnath Temple: Situated at a distance of 500 m from the Kedarnath Temple on the southern side, the Bhairavnath Temple is enshrined by the revered Hindu God, Lord Bhairava. It is perched on top of a hillock and offers magnificent views of the surrounding Himalayas and the entire Kedarnath valley below. Lord Bhairav is believed to be the main gana or devotee or of Lord Shiva and hence the temple is all the more important. The enshrining deity of the temple is also known as Kshetrapal or the guardian of the region, has a Trishul for a weapon and a dog as his vehicle.

Agastyamuni: Dedicated to Saint Agastya, the temple commemorates his one year mediation here. This ancient temple stands as an example of grand architecture and interiors with wall art adorning its walls.

Shankaracharya Samadhi: It is believed that Sri Sankaracharya who propounded the Adwaita Philosophy established this holy shrine and one of his four Mathas in the 8th century and attained Nirvana at age 32 here.

Triyuginarayan Temple: Situated at the height of 1,980 metres above the sea level, the Triyuginarayan temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. The temple is said to the the place where Lord Shiva got married to Goddess Parvati witnessed by Lord Vishnu. A special feature of this temple is a perpetual fire, that burns in front of the temple. The flame is believed to burn from the times of the divine marriage and so the the temple is also known as Akhand Dhuni temple. The name of the temple Triyugi Narayan is made up of three different words with Tri meaning three; Yugi means period of time and Narayan refers to Vishnu. Pilgrims have been offering wood to the fire in the havana-kund or fireplace for the past three yugs, hence the name of the temple. The uniqueness of the temple lies in the fact that devotees can worship Lord Vishnu, Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvathi at a single place. Since Lord Brahma also witnessed the marriage, the temple completes the trinity of the Hindu Gods, that is Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The temple also has the idols of Lord Hanuman, Lord Vinayaka, Garuda and Annapurna Devi in it. One can also find four sacred ponds or Kunds which are filled with fresh water in the temple. As per Hindu mythology, goddess Parvati was the daughter of Himavat, who was the personification of the Himalayas. She was also the rebirth of Sati. She initially tried to lure Shiva by her beauty but failed in her attempts. Later on, she practised severe penance at the Gauri Kund, which is 5 kilometres away from Triyuginarayan. Pleased, Shiva proposed to Parvati at Guptakashi and the two married in the village of Triyuginarayan. Vishnu acted as Parvati’s brother during the marriage ceremonies, while Brahma served as the priest of the wedding. The holy fire that witnessed the matrimony continues to burn in front of the temple in a fireplace till date. Before the marriage ceremony had begun, the three gods had taken a bath in the three kunds of the temple, which are the Rudra-kund, Vishnu-kund and Brahma-kund. The Saraswati-kund, which is believed to have originated from Vishnu’s navel, is the source of water supply to these three kunds. According to scriptures, devotees who visit the Triyuginarayan Temple consider the ashes from the burning fire in the Havan Kunda to be holy. Thus they add samidha, or sacrificial offerings of wood to the flame, collect the ashes as blessings and carry it back with them. It is also believed that these ashes promote conjugal bliss. The water from the three kunds is also considered to cure infertility in women, and devotees are often found taking a dip in these holy waters. The temple resembles the temple of Kedarnath and the present shrine is believed to have been built by Adi Shankaracharya. The shrine also consists of a 2 feet high silver image of god Vishnu, accompanied by an idol of his consort, goddess Lakshmi and goddess Saraswati. The exact location of the marriage is marked by a stone which is known as the Brahma Shila in front of the temple.

Vasuki Tal: A lake at an altitude of 4135 meters, Vasuki Tal offers a view of the neighbouring Chaukhamba peaks. Trekkers would find this an ideal range o climb up. The Chaturangi and Vasuki glaciers can be found en-route to the lake.

Chorabari Lake: Located at a distance of around 3 kms from the Kedarnath Temple, Chorabari Lake is a quaint lake which also goes by the name of Gandhi Tal. Tucked cosily in the backdrop of the mighty Himalayas, the lake is perched at a towering altitude of 3900 m above the sea level. Chorabari Tal originates from the Chorabari Bamak Glacier and can be reached through a short trek from the Kedarnath Temple. As per historical records, in 1948, the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi were also immersed in the lake. In addition to that, it is also believed that Lord Shiva used to impart sermons of yoga to the Saptarishis at the spot.

Located 21 km north of Kedarnath, our next destination is Gomukh

Also known as Gaumukh or Gomukh, and literally meaning the mouth of the cow, Gomukh is is the terminus or pout of the Gangotri Glacier and the source of the Bhagirathi River, one of the primary headstreams of the Ganges River. Located at a height of 13,200 ft it is one of the largest in the Himalayas with an estimated volume of over 27 cubic kilometers. On 26 July 2016, following heavy rains in Uttarakhand, it was reported that the front end of Gomukh was no more, as a large chunk of the glacier had collapsed and was washed away as huge cracks had emerged on the glacier due to the cloud burst and flash floods in the state in 2013. Prior to 2016, the opening of the cave looked exactly like the mouth of a cow. It is often considered the cradle of North Indian Hindu mythology, primarily the one centered around the river Ganges, who reincarnated on Earth upon sage Bhagirath’s insistence to purge his ancestors if their sins, so they could ascend to heaven.

Our next destination is Madhyamaheshwar, which is about 19 km southeast of Kedarnath.

A small sacred town, Madhyamaheshwar is a place of mysteries and blessed with the bounty of nature. Dotted with small huts and villages with their own culture and unique traditions, this quaint little town has an old world charm with the snow covered Himalayas as a backdrop and sprawling alpine meadows and a thick cover of forests adding more charm to its beauty. The town is renowned for its Madhyamaheshwar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Perched over an elevation of 3490 m above the sea level, visitors need to trek to this temple which is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is considered to be one of the oldest religious places in India. It is said that in order to avoid meeting with Pandavas, who came here to seek his blessing after the war of Mahabharata, Lord Shiva transformed into a bull here. Despite the uphill trek to get here, once devotees get inside the temple, they can see an idol of Shiva lingam in the shape of a naval which is placed along with the idol of Goddess Parvati and Ardhanarishwara, the form of Shiva in a half man and half woman. The temple is closed during the months of November to April during which prayers are shifted to Ukhimath. The Madhyamaheshwar Omkareshwar Temple is part of the Panch Kedar and is also dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is simply known as Ukhimath Omkareshwar Temple. During the winters, the idols from Kedarnath temple and Madhyamaheshwar are brought to Ukhimath and worshipped here for six months. Situated 2km from Madhyamaheshwar, the holy shrine of Budha Madhyamaheshwar is a cluster of rocks. The journey to this place quite captivating with picturesque views of various peaks that can be seen like Kedarnath, Neelkanth, Trishul, Kamet and Panchachuli over a small lake. Kanchani tal is 16 km away from Madhyamaheshwar, but the trek to this lake is deemed to be quite difficult, so keep that in mind.

We next go 48 km north to Gangotri.

Set in the dense forests of the Greater Himalayan Range, with a mystic view that one is bound to gasp at in awe, Gangotri, at a height of 3100 m, is the origin of the River Ganga. The ancient and fascinating legend of Gangotri is that, for many centuries, King Bhagirath undertook a series of severe self-mortifying rituals as a way to show repentance of the sins carried out by his ancestors. He performed a very harsh penance, in order to bring nirvana to his ancestors who were said to have been burned to ashes due to a sage’s curse. The River Ganga, who only flowed in the heavens before this, then decided to descend into the Earth, after Bhagirath’s prolonged meditation. However, it was said that once the Ganga starts flowing, no one on the face of the Earth could stop the Goddess’s mighty tides and flow which had the power to sweep the entire planet away. It was then that Lord Shiva, on the day of Gangavataran or Ganga Dussehra, decided to rise and channelise the waters and took the Ganga in the locks of his hair and released one of the strands of his hair in Gangotri. Ganga then flowed down, in the form of 12 streams of water from here, later called its tributaries. Since then the Himalayan glacier from which Ganga emerges has also been called Bhagirathi. Ganga derives its name after the river passes Devprayag and merges into the river Alaknanda. An interesting belief around this area is that after a pilgrim comes back from Ganga darshan in Gangotri, they have to give up one piece of food forever, be it a fruit, vegetable or anything else.

The Gangotri Temple is dedicated to Goddess Ganga and is the highest and the most important shrine dedicated to the deity, perched at an elevation of over 3000 metres above sea level. It was built about 3000 years bck by a Nepalese general, Amar Singh Thapa. The architecture of the temple is traditional 18th-century architecture. Its simplicity reflects in the white granite stone that composes the entire structure. The temple stands 20 feet tall and has a Sabha Mandap that leads to the shrine where the Goddess Ganga’s Idol has been placed. The top of the temple has three main and some smaller domes or cupolas with golden Shikharas. The Gangotri temple is a simple and humble structure that withstands the extreme climatic conditions in the region. The temple is open daily from 6:15 am to 2 pm and then again between 3 to 9:30 pm. At 4238 m above sea level, the Bhagirathi glacier begins at Chaukhamba to merge into the Gaumukh. Owing to its mineral content and the terrain of medicinal plants through which it flows, it is believed that the Ganges water is extremely pure and therapeutic. It is believed that even when it is kept for years, the water doesn’t become contaminated and pretty much every Hindu home has a pot of the waters of the Ganges. Auden’s Col is a high altitude mountain pass, which connects the Rudragaira valley and Bhilangana valley and forms a bridge between north west ridge of Gangotri III and the ridge coming from Jogin I on the east. It also binds two glaciers on opposite sides, the Khatling and the glacier belonging to Jogin I. Home to the famous Himalayan trouts, this sparkling Dodi Tal lake at 3204 m. has little log cabins scattered around the lake for camping and resting. Located at an altitude of 4425 m above sea level, the Kedar lake is known for its cool waters and beautiful trek up the rolling hills spanning 18 km.

Our next destination is Gauri Kund which about 39 km south of Gangotri.

Gaurikund in Guptakashi, is famous for being the starting point to and the last road head before the Kedarnath Yatra begins. Located on the banks of the river Mandakini at an altitude of about 2,000 m, Gaurikund is a place of infinite beauty, breathtaking landscapes and immense devotion. After the disastrous floods in Kedarnath in 2013, the original trekking route from Gaurikund to Kedarnath, via Rambara, a total walking distance of 14 km, was completely washed away. However, today the trek route has improved considerably and is now absolutely safe, complete with all facilities. Gaurikund is named after the Goddess Parvati, the wife of Lord Shiva. According to popular myth and legend, Gaurikund is where Goddess Parvati did penance, which involved ascetic and yoga practices, to win over Lord Shiva. Gaurikund is also related to Lord Ganesha and the story of how he acquired his elephant head. It is believed that while taking a bath, Parvati fashioned Ganesha from the soap lather on her body and placed him at the entrance as her guard. When Lord Shiva arrived and was stopped by Ganesha, he became furious and chopped off the boy’s head. Upon Parvati’s insistence that the child be brought back to life, Shiva took the head of a wandering elephant and placed it on Ganesha’s body. The Gaurikund temple has the idol of Goddess Parvati and devotees on their way to Kedarnath make it a point to stop here. Also known as Gauri Lake, Parvati Sarovar or the Lake of Compassion, the Gauri Kund is the lake where Goddess Parvati had breathed life into Lord Ganesha. Hindus consider this lake to be a sacred spot and take a ritual bath here. Sadly, after the 2013 floods, there is only a small stream of water flowing in place of the Kund.

Our next destination is Yamunotri, which lies about 67 km northwest of Gangotri.

The source of the Yamuna River and the seat of the Goddess Yamuna in Hinduism, Yamunotri is situated at an altitude of 3,293 metres in the Garhwal Himalayas. It is one of the four sites in India’s Chhota Char Dham pilgrimage with the sacred shrine of Yamunotri, the source of the river Yamuna, being the westernmost shrine in the Garhwal Himalayas, perched atop a flank of Bandar Poonch Parvat. The actual source, a frozen lake of ice and glacier, known as Champasar Glacier is located on the Kalind Mountain at a height of 4,421 m above sea level, about 1 km further up, and is not frequented as it is not accessible; hence the shrine has been located to the foot of the hill. The mountain adjacent to the river source is dedicated to Yamuna’s father, Surya and is called Kalind Parvat, Kalind being another name for the sun deity, Surya. Yamuna is known for her frivolousness, a trait that she developed because, according to legend, Yamuna’s mother could never make eye contact with her dazzling husband. The approach to the glacier is extremely difficult and pilgrims therefore offer puja at the temple itself. Hindu mythology hail Yamuna as the sister of Yama, the God of Death, and it is believed that a bath in Yamuna can make death painless. According to another legend, sage Asit Muni had his hermitage here. All his life, he bathed daily both in the Ganges and the Yamuna. Unable to go to Gangotri during his old age, a stream of the Ganges appeared opposite Yamunotri for him.

The temple of Yamuna, on the left bank of the Yamuna, was constructed by Maharaja Pratap Shah of Tehri Garhwal. The temple is made of granite stones, topped by a conical minaret, painted in the vibrant combination of pale yellow and bright vermillion. The deity is made of black marble. Close to the temple are two hot water springs gushing out from the mountain cavities known as Gowri Kund and Surya Kund, dedicated to the Sun God, believed to be the father of Yamuna. Near the Surya Kund there is a rock pillar called Divya Shila, which is 3000 meters high, which is worshipped before puja is offered to the deity. Devotees prepare rice and potatoes, tied in muslin cloth, to offer at the shrine by dipping them in these hot water springs. Rice so cooked is taken back home as prasadam or offerings. A stone walkway leads to the temple, with a large rock formation at the entrance known as the Divya Shila, where devotees pay their respects prior to entering the temple. Influences of the 19th century Nagar style of architecture can be seen as a result of renovations undertaken by the queen of Jaipur during this period. The pujaris or priests of Yamunotri come from the village of Kharsali near Janki Chatti and are the administrators who are well-versed in the sacred texts. The temple opens every year on the auspicious day of the Akshaya Tritiya, which generally falls during the last week of April, or the first week of May. The temple always closes on the sacred day of Diwali which comes around mid-October or the first week of November, with a brief ceremony. The temple staff return to their villages and for the rest of the time the valley is gripped in silence and covered with a white sheet of snow. A base camp for some of the most exciting and major trekking trails, including the char dham yatra, Hanuman Chatti is a beautiful place situated at an altitude of about 2400 meters at the confluence of Hanuman Ganga and Yamuna River. A hot bed of hot springs and trekking, Janki Chatti is close to Hanuman Chatti and acts as an alternative base for treks to Yamunotri. Just off Janki Chatti is Kharsali, a lovely picnic spot sprinkled with a number of thermal springs, water falls and rolling meadows covered by Oaks and conifers. Lord Shiva in the Someshwar form inhabits an ancient 3-storied temple with beautiful wood work and stone carvings. A popular natural lake at 4421 metres, the Saptarishi Kund is considered to be where Yamuna originates.

Moving on, our next destination is Rudranath which is about 100 km south of Yamunotri.

Travel Bucket List: India – Utarakhand Part 4

Posted on December 23, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

A cluster of seven fresh water lakes set against the captivating surroundings of dense oak and pine woods, Sattal offers visitors the rustic beauty of the lower Himalayas. Situated in Kumaon Region at an elevation of 1370 m above the sea level, the area boasts of its cluster of seven interconnected lakes namely: Panna, Naldaymanti Tal, Ram, Sita, Lakshman, Bharat and Sukha Tal whose sources are underground spring and which are flanked by lush green cover of oaks and pines. One of the few unspoiled and unpolluted freshwater biomes in India, the Sattal lakes are a paradise for migratory birds. With pleasant weather throughout the year, a visit to this destination away from the noise of cities is an experience not to be missed. During the British Raj, the area had a tea plantation, one of four in the Kumaon area at that time. Subhash Dhara is a fresh water natural spring that lies bundled in the dense forest of oaks. It offers its visitors a sight to behold with its pristine clear water attracting tourists in large number. The Butterfly Farm at Sattal is a museum at the John Estate that houses nearly 110 species of insect and over 2500 varied species of butterflies and was created by Federic Smetacek known as the butterfly man.

We next move on to Bhimtal, which is just about 14 km east of Sattal.

Bhimtal is an idyllic and less-crowded version of Nainital, whose charm lies in its off-beat, tranquil atmosphere. The picturesque Bhimtal Lake is a popular attraction for paddle boating, birding and nature walk. Bounded by a dense forest of oaks, pine and shrubs, it is also known for a few ancient temples. The 17th-century Bhimeshwar Temple is a must-visit spot in the hilltown. The Bhimtal Lake, with an island at the centre of the lake which houses an aquarium and a temple is a must-visit place here. A ‘C’ shaped lake over 47 hectares, the surroundings are well maintained and clean offering a pleasant experience to everyone visiting it. The lake is open from 9 am to 6 pm every day. Located on the bank of the lake is the 40-feet high Victoria Dam with its flower gardens on either side making it look quite entrancing. The Hidimba Parvat is a beautiful hill, located 5 km from Bhimtal which gets its name from Hidimba, the wife of Prince Bhima from the epic the Mahabharata. This hill also houses a wildlife asylum called Vankhandi Ashram, a habitat developed by Vankhnadi Maharaj, an environmentalist and monk who lives there. Situated on the banks of the Bhimtal Lake, the Bhimeshwar Mahadev Temple is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Believed to be already in existence during the visit of Pandavas while on exile, today it is often flooded with visitors. A small natural lake located about 2 km from Bhimtal, the Nal Damyanti lake contains shallow waters and is a perfect spot for enjoying some me-time. Though the trek route for reaching the lake is not very good, the amazing scenery around will make up for it. There are several old houses showcasing traditional Kumaoni architecture present here. The Karkotaka temple which is located on the top of the hill by the same name is dedicated to the serpent god, Nag Karkotaka Maharaja and this temple is especially crowded on the occasion of Rishi Panchami. Locals believe that the serpent god protects the villagers from snakes. The Folk Culture Museum at Bhimtal is an amazing place to explore traditions, culture and past of the state. Also referred to as the Lok Sanskriti Sangrahalaya, this place displays interesting artifacts, information on traditional customs and rituals and stone implements and other items of archeological importance including a fascinating collection of rock art and photographs.

Moving on, let’s make our way to Naukuchiatal, which lies less than 10 km from Bhimtal.

Naukuchiatal or the lake of nine corners is a small hill station near Nainital. The lake is 175 feet deep and is situated at 1,220 metres above sea level. It is covered in trees and shrubs also is said to have a hidden route under the lake to China. It is the deepest of all the lakes in the Nainital region with a length of the lake being 983 metres, breadth being 693 metres and a depth of 40.3 metres. Within the valley are opportunities for angling and bird watching. Other activities include parasailing, paragliding, fishing, rowing, paddling or yachting. The lake is fed by an underground perennial spring. Naukuchiatal is also known for the ‘escape festival’ which happens once every year in the month of May. It is believed that this lake was created after the hard worship of Lord Brahma and a small temple dedicated to him exists nearby. According to locals anyone performing a parikarma or circumulation of the lake will be blessed by Lord Brahma. A legend says that one glimpse of all nine corners of lake with both feet on the earth can make the viewer disappear into smoke and achieve nirvana. Lake Naukuchiatal is located at an altitude of 3996 ft above sea level and is regularly filled by the underwater stream. The lake is a magnet for numerous exotic bird species. Activities like paragliding, boating, biking, swimming, fishing and parasailing attracts tourists. Jungliagaon is a photographer’s paradise located 8kms from Naukuchiatal and is an ideal spot for angling, bird watching and wildlife photography. The Hanuman temple, also known as the Vaishno Devi temple has a 52 feet statue of Lord Hanuman at its entrance. The artificially made caves further lead to the famous Vaishno Devi Shrine which surrounds the temple and gives way to different parts. The temple complex consists of many sections like three temples in main complex, the meditation room, Shani Temple, Ram Darbar Temple and the resting area for pilgrims.

We now move 120 km north to Kausani.

Also known as the Switzerland of India because of a similar landscape, Kausani is a hill station famous for its scenic splendour and its spectacular 300 km-wide panoramic view of Himalayan peaks like Trisul, Nanda Devi and Panchchuli. After India’s Independence, Kausani was part of the Almora district until 1997 when the Bageshwar district was carved out of Almora. Situated at an altitude of 1890m with Pine tree forests, meandering creek, Kausani is ideal for honeymooners, nature lovers and travellers. Previously known as Valna, Kausani receives snowfall during the winter months. Some of the common trek routes from Kausani are the Adi Kailash trek, the base Kausani trek and the Bageshwar- Sunderdhunda trek. The Rudradhari Falls and Caves which lie at a distance of 12 km is bounded by paddy fields and green pine forests. Located on the trekking way to Adi Kailash region, one can also explore the mysteries of the ancient caves lying near the falls. According to the legend, this place holds connection with Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu. The Shiva Temple of Someshwar lies in the proximity to the waterfalls. The presiding deity here is Lord Shiva and it is a highly revered temple among locals. The rock-cut shrine of Someshwar is rustic and humble in construction, with the hills that surround the temple offering a unique experience. The temple has a wishing well nearby which is believed to grant all the wishes of devotees. A beautiful, quaint and sleepy village sandwiched between Garhwal and Kumaon, Gwaldam is full of forests and small lakes providing the setting for a peaceful retreat. Nestled amongst the pine forests and apple orchards at an altitude of 1700 meters, the village is tucked in the middle of Kumaon and Garhwal and offers some wide and enchanting views of peaks such as Nanda Devi, Trishul and Nanda Ghuti. There are dazzling hills covered by tall pine trees, terraced farms on the enchanting hill slopes and little wooden houses scattered in the middle of it as far as the eyes can see. The entire area is full of orchids rendering the whole scenery charming. The most famous trekking expedition here is the Roopkund Lake trek. Another beautiful ancient town tucked in the eastern half of the Garhwal Himalayas, Baijnath is popular for the Baijnath Temple and other ancient temples, a lot of which are now in ruins. Situated in the easternmost corner of Uttarakhand on the banks of River Gomti Baijnath was the capital of the erstwhile Katyuri Kingdom. The temple which is the heartbeat of the town is dedicated to Lord Shiva and was built around the 12th century and is remarkably well preserved. The Kausani Tea Estate located 5 km away from the main town is spread across the area of 208 hectares arranges short tours to show their process guided by their staff. One can also taste and buy different flavored tea. Note that it is closed from November to March. The Sumitranandan Pant Museum in Kausani is the place dedicated to the famous Hindi poet who was born in Kausani. It offers a wide range of his creative work on display from manuscripts of poems and draft work of her literary work to his awards and letters written by and to him. There is also a large collection of his books in English and Hindi showcased in a glass shelves. To celebrate his birth anniversary, every year a poetry discussion is organised in the museum. High up in the majestic Himalayas at Kausani, lies the Stargate Observatory, dedicated to the observation of celestial objects. Located at an altitude of about 1800 meters, visitors can get spectacular views of the Himalayas from here and engage in stargazing and learn the nuances of astrophotography. The observatory is open from 5:30 am to 11:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 100 per pax.

Our next destination is Ranikhet, about 60 km south of Kausani.

Ranikhet, meaning the Queen’s Farm is a hill station developed by the British around ancient temples, undulating Himalayan hills and forests. Maintained by the Indian Army, it is the home for the Military Hospital, Kumaon Regiment and Naga Regiment and lies at an altitude of 1,869 m above sea level and within sight of the western peaks of the Himalayas. Ranikhet is popular for its views of the Nanda Devi Peak, trekking ranges, mountainous climbs, golf courses, orchards and temples. Giving a glimpse of the majestic Sonya peak, Majhkhali en-route to Almora is endowed with scenic beauty and lovely weather. About 6 km from Ranikhet is the small town of Kalika which is surrounded by thick, lush green forests and snow-capped mountains and is famous for the Kalika Temple and golf course. The backyard of the erstwhile Katyuri kings, Manila today is home to the popular Maa Manila devi Temple and this small town is a mesmerising place with wide and panoramic views of the Himalayas. Dwarahat is an ancient town full of beautiful temples which is just 35 km from Ranikhet. Home to some 55 odd ancient temples built in the medieval ages by the Katyuri Kings, Dwarahat is not only historically significant, but these temples house some of the most revered deities in Hindu mythology.

Ranikhet is home to numerous sunset points that offer wonderful views of the snow covered Himalayas. The best ones among them are Machkhali, located near woodvilla point between the Transit Camp and Ganiadeoli and the one on the road from Jhoola Devi Temple to Bhargaon. The place is best visited between February and November to witness these breathtaking mountains and sunsets in all their glory. An artificial lake surrounded by idyllic forests, the Bhalu dam is the perfect spot for a picnic complete with birds, breeze and snow-capped valleys. However, the water is typically low or negligible except during monsoon season and one needs to trek for 3 km to reach this reservoir. Originally built for rainwater harvesting, the Rani Jheel is a vast artificial lake that is located amidst natural ridges and woods and is located at an altitude of 7,500 feet above sea level. Dedicated to Haidakhan, who is believed to be an incarnation of Lord Shiva, the Haidakhan Bababji Temple was constructed by Haidakhan himself. Other than the main temple, the complex also has five guest houses, along with an Italian temple, Sri Babaji’s Kutir and the Sri Baba Research Hospital. The temple is a must visit during Navratris and in the evenings on all days. Situated near the Chaubatia Gardens, the Ram Mandir is perched on the top of a hill and can be reached by using a flight of stairs. The temple also has a monastery where students learn ancient Vedas and Vedic and modern mathematics under the tutelage of Sant Sri Mouni Maharaj. The Binsar Mahadev Mandir is an ancient temple in Bisaona built by King Pithu in the 10th century, and is dedicated to Lord Shiva, who is worshipped as Bindeshwar in the temple. One can also find the idols of Lord Ganesha, Goddess Gauri and Goddess Mahisasuramardini in the temple, along with the idol of Mahisasuramardini. Also known as Katarmal, the Sun Temple in Ranikhet dates back to over 800 years, and can be reached by a small yet exciting trekking route. The temple is surrounded by a total of 44 small shrines with ancient architectural patterns and exquisite stone carvings. The Dunagiri Temple is a famous shrine dedicated to Maa Dunagiri or Maa Durga and is located 8000 feet above sea level and is known as a Shakti Temple. People often visit this temple during the Chaitra and Ashwin months of Navratri. It is believed that when Lord Hanuman was carrying the mountain with the Sanjeevani herb for Lord Laxman, a piece of it fell on this location and since then, it has been called Doonagiri. Visitors need to climb a total of 365 steps to reach the temple. Dunagiri is one of the two Vaishnavi Shakti Peeths, the other one being Vaishno Devi temple in Jammu and Kashmir. The Kumaon Regimental Centre was built in the 1970s to showcase the rich legacy of the Kumaon region. Established by Kumaon Regiment of the Indian Army, the museum houses war artefacts of historical importance that exhibit the glory and achievements of the Garhwal and Kumaon regiments including displays of photographs of wars, weapons used by the armed forces, medals and uniforms as well as flags, stone tablets and other objects. It also houses valuables such as silver sceptres of Rani Jhansi and documents and pictures associated with Kargil War, a wireless field telephone used in World War II by the Japanese and Chinese rifles captured in the 1962 war. The KRC golf course is another major attraction.

We now travel 45 km east from Ranikhet to Almora.

Considered the cultural heart of the Kumaon region, Almora is located on a ridge at the southern edge of the Kumaon Hills of the Himalaya range. Founded in 1568 by King Kalyan Chand, Almora got its name from Bhilmora, a kind of sorrel, a short plant commonly found there. Prior to that the region was under the control of Katyuri King Bhaichaldeo who donated a part of Almora to Sri Chand Tiwari. There are also accounts of human settlements in the hills and surrounding region in the Hindu epic Mahabharata. According to local tradition, the earliest inhabitants in Almora were Tewaris who were required to supply Sorrel daily for cleansing the vessels of sun temple at Katarmal. The Chand dynasty from their inception in 953 A.D. to their ouster in the late 18th century present a saga of strife, with horrifying series of wars with rulers of Garhwal culminating in the destruction of this prosperous land and establishment of inglorious Gurkha rule. In 1791, the Gorkhas of Nepal while expanding their kingdom westwards across Kali River, invaded and overran Almora. The Gorkha rule lasted for twenty-four years. The Anglo-Gorkha war of 1814 resulted in the defeat of the Gorkhas and subsequently led to the signing of the Treaty of Sugauli in 1816, according to which, Nepal had to cede all those territories which the Gorkhas had annexed to the British East India Company. This agrarian town has two major rivers, Koshi also known as Kaushaki and Suyal or Salmali flowing through it.

Binsar: Located at a distance of 33 km from Almora, Binsar is a small town known for the beauty of the snow-laden Himalayan peaks. Set amid forests covered with oak, pine, rhododendrons and deodar trees, Binsar is home to beautiful green meadows, temples and the famous Binsar wildlife sanctuary. You can also visit Zero Point which is the highest point at an elevation of 2412 m which has beautiful views during both sunrise and sunset. One can see a 360-degree panoramic view of the Himalayas including peaks like the Kedarnath Peak, Shivling, and Nanda Devi. To reach Zero Point, one has to walk inside the sanctuary for 1.5 kilometres. A guided trek up to Zero Point is the recommended way to explore the green beauty of the Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. It is also a great location for bird-watching. Situated at the height of 2420 metres, the weather of Binsar remains pleasant throughout the year. Besides the Binsar wildlife sanctuary, one can also visit the Kasar Devi temple and the Bineshwar Mahadev temple.

Jalna: A small and sleepy village, Jalna is the place for some trekking and exploring. A small scenic village, a few kilometers from Almora, Jalna is situated at an altitude of 1700 meters amidst the wild of the Himalayas. The sleepy hamlet is a wonderful place for trekking and exploring the natural forest cover of the area. Entry to Jalna has to be before sunset.

Kasar Devi: Splendid views of the of Himalayas, from Nanda Devi to the five snow-capped peaks of Panchachuli surround the town of Kasar Devi. The place is famous for its namesake temple, the Kasar Devi Temple. The area is home to pine and deodar trees, offering a panoramic view of the Himalayas along with an eye-pleasing view of Hawabagh Valley. A single road runs up high with 200 houses on each side. The village derives its name from the namesake deity Kasar Devi, with the Kasar Devi Temple dating back to the 2nd century. In the 1890s, Swami Vivekananda visited the place and meditated here for days and this place became a powerhouse for the counter culture that erupted in the ’60s. The region around Kasar Devi has an enormous geomagnetic field as the region comes under the Van Allen belt. The Kasar Devi fair is a large fair organised every year on Kartik Poornima as per the Hindu calendar. People often trek up to the temple from the town of Kalimath, through cosy little alleys carved in the hills.

Jageshwar: A small town with equisitely carved temples, Jageshwar has about 124 exceptionally well preserved temples. Mostly built in the 9th century, the temples will leave you feeling enchanted, with an unquenchable thirst of exploring beyond. The most visited one is the Jageshwar Mahadev Temple, situated in the Jataganga Valley, dedicated to the incarnation of Shiva in the form of a child. The story goes as Shiva being an attractive alpha male was attractive to all the women folk of the village, where he used to meditate. To not offend the men of the village, Shiva incarnated himself as a child. The temple itself is divided into two parts, with one dedicated to Shiva, and the other to his consort, Goddess Parvati. The entrance is flanked by the idols of the keepers of the sanctum sanctorum, Nandi and Skandi, complete with all the armaments, adding to the majestic bearing of the temple as well. The Mahamrityunjaya Temple is is made from three words. Maha, meaning great, mrityun, meaning death, and jaya, meaning victory. Hence the word itself literally translates to the great victory over death. The idol itself, is one of a kind carving, with no similar representation anywhere in the country. An epitome of Nagar style architecture, the Dandeshwar Temple is as tall as you can crane your neck, quite literally. It is believed to house the shrine of Lord Shiva as the staff bearer, hence the name Dandeshwar, or the bearer of the ‘dand’, the staff. The idol of the deity is in the form of a large uncut natural rock, following the prevalent custom of worshipping the Gods in their unaltered natural form. The Archaeological Museum at Jageshwar, maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India, houses an exquisite collection of the ancient carved idols and old world representations of the deities. With galleries containing pieces dating back to the 9th and 13th centuries, the most prominent figures are those of Uma and Maheshwar or Parvati and Shiva and the Sun god as well as the Nav Graha, or the nine planets. The museum is worth a visit, The most noteworthy figure is of one of the rulers of the area, Pona Raja, who is still well respected and remembered in the region.

Bright End Corner: Situated about 3 km from Almora, Bright End Corner offers breathtaking views of sunset and sunrise. This place is dedicated to Swami Vivekanand, who spent few days during his stay in the Himalayas and the viewpoint has a Vivekanand library situated very close to it.

Chitai Temple: Locally known as the Golu Devata Chitai Temple, the Chitai Temple is located 9 km from Almora City. This Temple is dedicated to Gollu or Goljyu Devta, an avatar or incarnation of Lord Shiva in the form of Gaur Bhairav, built during the Chand regime. The temple is known as the abode of the God of Justice and there are various beliefs that cause people to come and pray here. There are many bells hung by devotees as an act of offerings, wishing or thanksgiving which can be heard far and wide and this is why the temple is also called the temple of a million bells.

Katarmal Sun Temple: Located at an altitude of 2,116 m, the Sun Temple in Katarmal village is considered the second most beautiful shrine dedicated to the Sun God or Lord Surya in India. Around 19 kilometres away from Almora, this temple complex where the main temple is dedicated to the the incarnation of Lord Surya, Vraddhaditya. This shrine is lightened at dawn as it receives the first rays of the sun. Its very location amidst the Kumaon hills interrupted by the Kosi river, makes this site extremely photogenic and an absolute delight. This 9th century temple complex dates back to when Katarmalla, a Katyuri ruler used to rule the region. This 800-year-old temple has one main temple and 45 smaller shrines. Other smaller shrines have idols of Shiva, his consort Parvati, Lakshmana and Narayana, enshrined in them.

Gobind Vallabh Pant Museum: Holding some of the legacies of the Katyuri and Chand dynasties, the museum on Mall Road also has beautiful collections of folk style painting known as Aspen and Kumaoni antiquities.

Moving on, let’s head to Champawat, which lies about 130 km east of Almora.

Champawat is an intrepid town perched 5,299 feet above the sea level and was the former capital of the Kumaon Kingdom. The place holds historical and religious significance because It is believed to be the place where the Kurmavtar or the turtle incarnation of Lord Vishnu took place. Today, there is a temple called Kranteshwar Mandir, which is dedicated to lord Shiva. It is also believed that the head of Ghatotkacha, the son of Bhima and the demon Hidimba fell here after he died in the battle of Kurukshetra in the Mahabharata with the Gahtku Mandir the temple dedicated to Ghatotkacha. There is a famous temple called the Shaani Mandir or Manokamna Purn Mandir Kaula in the village of Maurari. The only structure in the area said to have been constructed in the medieval time, Banasur ka Kila is about 20 km from Champawat. It is believed to be the capital of demon Vanasur who faced his defeat at the hands of Lord Krishna. Banasur ka Kila was constructed in the memory of Banasur, the eldest son of the mythologically famous King Bali because he was assassinated here by Lord Krishna when Banasur had tried to kill Krishna’s grandson Aniruddha. The fort is based on the name of a boon-bestowed Banasur, the man with the thousand arms; whereas the fort gives an air of disintegration and dilapidation.

The Lohawati River also originates from this site and is located alongside the Bhowali Road. Ek Hathiya ka Naula is one of those structures, that is known not only because of its uniqueness, but also for its creators. A single handedly carved architectural marvel, situated about 5 km away from Champawat, Ek Hathiya ka Naula is named so, because it was literally carved by an artisan who had only one hand, over the span of a single night. One of the oldest temples in Champawat, the Baleshwar temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva was built around 10th century by the rulers of Chand Dynasty. Among the two temples in the campus, one is dedicated to Ratneshwar while the other is dedicated to Goddess Durga. An amazing example of architecture, the temple complex is mostly built of stone. The Kranteshwar Mahadev Temple which lies at a distance of about 6 kms from Champawat is a small complex of stone made structures and is locally known as the Kandev or Kurmapad. It is atop a hill at a height of 6000 meters and there is the ever blooming red blossoms in the temple complex which provide a one of its kind visual treat. The panoramic view of the temple is simply majestic and worth the trip. The Nagnath temple is a wooden carved double storey structure that is also the oldest and the most well preserved shrine of Lord Shiva. According to locals, they worships Lord Shiva in his perpetual form of the wielder of the serpentine creatures, signifying his detachment to the world, but also his love for the outcast creatures, the nag or the India cobra. The Nagnath Temple was built by Guru Gorakhnath, a noted sage of the hills. Despite the destruction caused by the Rohilla and Gorkha tribes, the temple has been restored and sports a very intricately carved wooden doorway of the 18th century Kumaoni style architecture. Gwal Devta, more popularly known as Goll Devta or Goril Devta, is a deity of enormous significance in the area, and is known to deliver justice and instill faith in his populace as their ruler prince. However, he became a victim of his cruel stepmother’s plans and was drowned in a river nearby, locked in an iron cage. His faithful people bullt the temple in his memory, and believe he still presides over the town and metts out justice to the helpless and the needy. The temple at Golchaurh receives quite a lot of pilgrims throughout the year and is held in high esteem by all devotees. Lohaghat is a beautiful hill station located near Champawat and this ancient town is an important place for temples with historical and mythological significance. Situated on the banks of Lohawati River and at an altitude of 1800 meters, Lohaghat is blessed with natural beauty in abundance. Situated at an altitude of 1500 meters in the foothills of Garhwal Himalayas, Shyamla Tal is a beautiful lake town with umpteen amounts of greenery and freshness to it. Alongside the lake there is a Swami Vivekanand Ashram which is one of the highlights of the place and is a great for some meditation and self-exploration. The lake has been named so as it looks like a mirror to the sky reflecting its blue tint all over itself.

Lets now drive 200 km north from Champawat to Munsiyari.

Often referred to as Little Kashmir, Munsiyari is a cosy hamlet located in Pithoragarh. Situated at an altitude of 2298 metres, the pretty little hill town is known for its panorama of snow-capped Himalayan Range and some adventurous trekking trails. Perched between the borders of India, Tibet and Nepal, Munsiyari is a base for three glaciers namely Namik, Milam and Ralam glaciers. The scenic village with the stunning backdrop of the Panchachuli or the five peaks, Nanda Devi and Nanda Kot is also dubbed the Gateway to Johar Valley’ as Munsiyari is the starting point of Johar Valley which was the ancient trade route between Tibet and India. In local parlance, the name Munsiyari refers to a place with snow. Situated on the banks of Goriganga river, it is commonly used as a trekking hub or base camp. Munsiyari also falls on the ancient salt route from Tibet and is at the entrance of the Johar Valley, which extends along the path of the Gori Ganga river to its source at the Milam Glacier. The upper part of Munsiyari is called Malla Johar, which comprises 14 trans-humant alpine villages, that are seasonally occupied during the months of May to early November.

Falling from the height of 126m, Birthi Falls which is located about 35 km from Munsiyari offers an extremely refreshing experience. With lush green surroundings blooming in various colors, it makes for an ideal place to sit and enjoy some time alone. A beautiful place with a very fascinating legend attached to it, Maheshwari Kund is just a few km walk from Munsiyari. Once cursed by a Yakshi who use to live in a small lake there, the place faced drought for several years. After the villagers apologized to the Yakshi for not letting him marry the sarpanch daughter and emptying the lake in form of revenge, the ritual is practiced even today and there is a pond there now offering nature in its absolutely raw form and a incredible view of Panchachuli Peak which is a prominent peak which looks majestic from Munsiyari. The Thamari Kund is an enrapturing natural lake bound by alpine and paper trees as well as many Musk Deer and enriched in variety of flora. Located at a distance of 15 km from Munsiyari on the way from Birthi, Kalamuni Top is 9,500 feet tall and famous for its Kali Temple dedicated to the Naga God. The fantastic view of Panchachuli peak from there flanked by the sprawling pine forest makes this place a must visit. Situated at a height of 9,000 ft, Betulidhar is covered with red rhododendrons in full bloom. However, the best feature of this place is absolutely gorgeous sunsets and sunrises with an entrancing view of snow covered Himalayas and the Balati and Ralam Glaciers. A small quaint village just 6km from Munisyari, Darkot is a paradise for shoppers offering a varied range of articles to buy, the most famous being pashmina shawls and sheep wool blankets. The Nanda Devi temple at Munisyari is a structure of typical Kumaoni architecture dating back to 1000 years, and naturally well preserved. The Nanda Devi Fair, that started in the 16th century, continues here, and falls every August, much to the delight to all the lovers of lesser known mythologies.

Let’s now travel 130 km south to Pithorgarh

Situated in a beautiful Soar valley and flanked by Nepal in the east and Tibet in the north, Pithoragarh is a small urban town which is a prime example of raw beauty of nature. A gateway to Himalayan range, this town also serves as the stop over for pilgrims on their way to Kailash Mansarover. With the river Kali flowing through the town which is prettily adorned with tranquil temples, villages, fort, lush green forests and natural resources, this place is a blessing in disguise for travel enthusiasts. Pithoragarh and its surrounding areas were part of the Manaskhand region, which extended from the Kailash Mountain in the north to Bhabar & Terai in the south, as mentioned in the Skanda Purana. The Asuras and Nagas appear to be the earliest inhabitants of the region, who were later superseded by the Kiratas, Khasas and the Kunindas. The Kushana Kings held their sway over the region in the last quarter of the 1st century after which the region came under the Kurmanchal kingdom, which had its capital first at Jyotirmath and then at Karikeyapura which is today Baijnath in the Katyur Valley.

Upon the disintegration of the Katyuris and the fall of kingdom in the 13th century, Pithoragarh came under the rule of Bam kings of Saur. In the 15th century, King Bharti Chand of Champawat amassed a huge army, and started plundering and killing in the regions ruled by the Doti Kings. The resultant war, lasting 12 years, ended with a victory for the Chands. The kingdom of Saur came under direct control of the kingdom of Kumaon in the 16th century during the rule of King Balo Kalyan Chand, when it was gifted to him by the Raika king of Doti as dowry for marrying his daughter. Legend has it that during the reign of the Chand Rajas of Kumaon, one Piru, also called Prithvi Gosain, built a fort here and named it Prithvigarh which, in the course of time, got changed to Pithoragarh.

Chandak is a hill with an opportunity for a small trek situated on the north side of the Soar Valley. Located at a distance of 8 km from Pithoragarh, this beautiful place also offers hang gliding adventures. The Mostamanu Temple is about 2 kms away on foot. This temple attracts a lot of visitors during August and September when a fair is organized. Tucked away in the eastern corner of Uttarakhand, Didihat is a wondrous and pristine hillock full of natural beauty. The place is known for its ruins of forts and temples belonging to a bygone era as well for being a halting point on the Kailash Mansoravar Yatra. Situated at an altitude of 1800 meters, Didihat is blessed with infinite natural beauty and some great viewpoints of the mighty Himalayas. Didihat also has some remnants of its glorious past in the ruins of the forts and temples belonging to the Doti and Chand rulers and is known to provide some amazing views of mighty Himalayan peaks such as the Panchachuli and Trishul peaks. Gangolihat is famous for hosting the Shakti Peethas of Goddess Kali. A very small town located near important tourist spots such as Patal Bhuveneshwar, Binsar and Abott Mount, it is located at an altitude of 1800 meters. Nestled at an elevation of 1106 metres, the small town of Askot borders Nepal and China, and is known for its rhododendron carpeted hills, enchanting valleys, meandering streams and picture perfect settings. Enveloped by the Chhiplakot and the Panchchuli ranges, the offbeat hilly hamlet is popular for its Askot Musk Deer Sanctuary. The rocky mountains offer perfect trekking opportunities for both amateurs and professionals. Patal Bhuvaneshwar is known for its deep caves underground and is 82 km away from Pithoragarh. The Kapilaswar cave is a cave temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and offers breathtaking views of the Soar Valley and the equally bewitching sight of snow covered peaks of the great Himalayas. Situated 3 km from Pithoragarh, the cave houses many tunnels to the temple which are now closed. To worship the deity placed in the complex, one has to travel 10 m into the cave. Another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva is also situated about half a km away. Pithoragarh Fort affords spectacular views of the Kali Kumaon and was established in year 1789 by the Gorkhas after the invasion of town. Surrounded by views of the majestic Himalayas, the Dhwaj temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and Maa Jayanti and is 10 km from Pithoragarh. Visitors can also hike to the temple which is 4 km across the terrain. A heaven for wildlife lovers and botany enthusiasts, the Askot Sanctuary has a wide range of flora and fauna. Located at the height of 5412 m and at a distance of 54 km from Pithoragarh, one can witness vivid kinds of animals like chirs, pheasants, koklas, bharals, Himalayan black bear, chukors, snow leopards and musk deers here. Apart from the wildlife, Askot is also dotted with many temples.

From Pithoragarh, our next destination is Bageshwar

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

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