Travel Bucket List: India – Assam Part 1

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My post on northeast India written more than two years back was the genesis for this series and so lately I have been thinking that I have been unfair about lumping all the eight states as one being, especially when I have researched in detail the other states. So, to overcome this, I will be doing each state in detail and will be starting with the state of Assam, one of the larger states.

Located south of the eastern Himalayas along the Brahmaputra and Barak River valleys in north-eastern India, Assam is bordered by Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh to the north; Nagaland and Manipur to the east; Meghalaya, Tripura, Mizoram and Bangladesh to the south; and West Bengal to the west via the Siliguri Corridor, a 22 km wide strip of land that connects the state to the rest of India. The state language is Assamese, followed by Bengali, which is official in the Barak Valley and Bodo which is official in Bodoland Territorial Region.

Known for its tea and silk, the state was the first site for oil drilling in Asia. Assam is home to the one-horned Indian rhinoceros, along with the wild water buffalo, pygmy hog, tiger and various species of Asiatic birds, and provides one of the last wild habitats for the Asian elephant. The Assamese economy is aided by wildlife tourism to the Kaziranga National Park and the Manas National Park, which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Assam receives more rainfall than most parts of India; this rain feeds the Brahmaputra River, whose tributaries and oxbow lakes provide the region with a hydro-geomorphic environment.

Assam and adjoining regions have evidence of human settlement from the beginning of the Stone Age. The first dated mention of the region comes from Periplus of the Erythraean Sea in the 1st century and Ptolemy’s Geographia in the 2nd century which calls the region Kirrhadia after the Kirata population. In the classical period and up to the 12th century the region east of the Karatoya river, largely congruent to present-day Assam, was called Kamarupa, and alternatively, Pragjyotisha. Though a western portion of Assam as a region continued to be called Kamrup, the Ahom kingdom that emerged in the east, and which came to dominate the entire Brahmaputra valley, was called Assam; and the British province too was called Assam. Though the precise etymology of Assam is not clear, the name Assam is associated with the Ahom people, originally called Shyam or Shan.

According to a late text, the Kalika Purana from around the 9th to the 10th century, the earliest ruler of Assam was Mahiranga Danav of the Danava dynasty, who was removed by Naraka of Mithila and established the Bhauma dynasty. The last of these rulers, also Naraka, was slain by Lord Krishna. Naraka’s son Bhagadatta became the king, who, it is mentioned in the Mahabharata fought for the Kauravas in the battle of Kurukshetra with an army of kiratas, chinas and dwellers of the eastern coast. At the same time towards the east in central Assam, the Asura Kingdom was ruled by another line of kings. Evidence indicates the presence of civilization in Assam around the 2nd century with a rock-cut stupa at Sri Surya Pahar that has been dated to 200 BC contemporary with the rock-cut Karle and Bhaja caves of Maharashtra. Samudragupta’s 4th century Allahabad pillar inscription mentions Kamarupa and Davaka in central Assam as frontier kingdoms of the Gupta Empire. Davaka was later absorbed by Kamarupa, which grew into a large kingdom that spanned from Karatoya river to near present Sadiya and covered the entire Brahmaputra valley, North Bengal, parts of Bangladesh and, at times Purnea and parts of West Bengal. The kingdom was ruled by three dynasties who traced their lineage from a mleccha or Kirata Naraka; the Varmanas, the Mlechchha dynasty and the Kamarupa-Palas, from their capitals in present-day Guwahati or Pragjyotishpura, Tezpur or Haruppeswara and North Gauhati or Durjaya respectively. All three dynasties claimed descent from Narakasura.

The Ahoms, a Tai group, ruled Upper Assam. The Shans built their kingdom and consolidated their power in Eastern Assam with the modern town of Sibsagar as their capital. Until the early 1500s, the Ahoms ruled a small kingdom in Sibsagar district and suddenly expanded during King Suhungmung’s rule taking advantage of the weakening rule of Chutia and Dimasa kingdoms. By 1681, the whole track down to the border of the modern district of Goalpara came permanently under their sway. Ahoms ruled for nearly 600 years between 1228 and 1826 with major expansions in the early 16th century. The Koch, another Bodo-Kachari dynasty, established sovereignty in 1510. The Koch kingdom in Western Assam and present-day North Bengal was at its zenith in the early reign of Nara Narayan between 1540 and 1587 and later split into two, the western part as a Mughal vassal and the eastern as an Ahom satellite state and later in 1682, Koch Hajo was entirely annexed by the Ahoms.

Despite numerous invasions, mostly by the Muslim rulers, no western power ruled Assam until the arrival of the British with the Mughals making seventeen unsuccessful attempts to invade. The discovery of Camellia sinensis in 1834 in Assam was followed by testing in 1836–37 in London. The British allowed companies to rent land from 1839 onwards and then tea plantations proliferated in Eastern Assam, where the soil and the climate were most suitable. Problems with the imported Han Chinese labourers from China and hostility from native Assamese resulted in the migration of forced labourers from central and eastern parts of India. After initial trial and error with planting the Chinese and the Assamese-Chinese hybrid varieties, the planters later accepted the local Camellia assamica as the most suitable variety for Assam. By the 1850s, the industry started seeing some profits. The industry saw initial growth when in 1861, investors were allowed to own land in Assam and it saw substantial progress with the invention of new technologies and machinery for preparing processed tea during the 1870s. In the later part of the 18th century, Ahom occupied Assam was captured by the Burmese who then leashed a reign of terror on the Assamese people who fled to neighbouring kingdoms and British-ruled Bengal after which the First Anglo-Burmese War took place in 1824 and ended under the Treaty of Yandabo in 1826, with the Company taking control of Western Assam and installing Purandar Singha as king of Upper Assam in 1833 under an arrangement that lasted till 1838 after which the British gradually annexed the entire region.

Initially, Assam was made a part of the Bengal Presidency, then in 1906 it was made a part of Eastern Bengal and Assam province, and in 1912 it was reconstituted into a chief commissioners’ province. The Assam territory was first separated from Bengal in 1874 as the North-East Frontier non-regulation province, also known as the Assam Chief-Commissionership. It was incorporated into the new province of Eastern Bengal and Assam in 1905 after the partition of Bengal between 1905 and 1911 and re-established in 1912 as Assam Province. After India’s independence, the Indian government divided Assam into several states beginning in 1970 within the borders of what was then Assam. In 1963, the Naga Hills district became the 16th state of India under the name of Nagaland and a part of Tuensang was added to the new state. In 1970, the districts containing the Khasi Hills, Jaintia Hills, and Garo Hills were formed into an autonomous state within Assam which then became the state of Meghalaya in 1972 and the same year, Arunachal Pradesh or the North-East Frontier Agency and Mizoram, from the Mizo Hills in the south were separated from Assam as union territories, with both becoming full states in 1986.

A significant geographical aspect of Assam is that it contains three of six physiographic divisions of India: the Northern Himalayas or the Eastern Hills, The Northern Plains or the Brahmaputra plains and Deccan Plateau or the Karbi Anglong. The climate is cold and there is rainfall most of the year. Geomorphic studies conclude that the Brahmaputra, the lifeline of Assam, is an antecedent river older than the Himalayas. Assam is one of the richest biodiversity zones in the world and consists of tropical rainforests, deciduous forests, riverine grasslands, bamboo orchards and numerous wetland ecosystems with many now protected as national parks and reserved forests. Assam has conserved the one-horned Indian rhinoceros from near extinction, along with the pygmy hog, tiger and numerous species of birds, and it provides one of the last wild habitats for the Asian elephant. The state has the largest population of wild water buffalo in the world as well as the highest diversity of birds in India with around 820 species which go up to 946 when subspecies are included.

Assam’s economy is based on agriculture and oil with Assam producing more than half of India’s tea. The Assam-Arakan basin holds about a quarter of the country’s oil reserves and produces about 12% of its total petroleum. The Assamese culture is traditionally a hybrid one developed due to assimilation of ethnocultural groups of Austric, Dravidian, Tibeto-Burman and Tai origin in the past. Therefore, both local elements or the local elements in Sanskritised forms are distinctly found.

We shall start our exploration of the state with its largest city Guwahati as well as its capital Dispur, which is a circuit city region located within Guwahati.

Guwahati

The largest city in Assam and also the largest metropolis in northeastern India, Guwahati is a major riverine port city along with hills and is called the Gateway to Northeast India. Dispur, the capital of Assam, is in the circuit city region located within Guwahati and is the seat of the Assam government. The city is also called the City of Temples because of the many ancient Hindu temples in the city. The city of Guwahati lies between the banks of the Brahmaputra River and the foothills of the Shillong plateau with the northern bank of the Brahmaputra, being gradually incorporated into the city limits. Guwahati is the largest city in Northeast India and the region hosts diverse wildlife including rare animals, primate species and endangered birds.

Once known as Pragjyotishpura or the light of the east, Guwahati was the capital of the ancient kingdom of Kamarupa and derives its name from the Assamese word Guva which is derived from the Sanskrit word Guvaka, meaning areca nut and its plant and Hati meaning rows with the city’s name translating to the rows of the areca nut tree. Guwahati’s myths and history go back several thousands of years, though the exact date of the city’s beginning is unknown, references in the epics, Puranas, and other traditional histories of India, lead many to assume that it is one of the ancient cities of Asia with the Kalika Purana mentioning that Kamarupa was inhabited by Kiratas. The city was the seat of the Borphukan, the civil-military authority of the Lower Assam region appointed by the Ahom kings. The Mughals invaded Assam seventeen times but were defeated by the Ahoms in the Battle of Itakhuli and the Battle of Saraighat on the outskirts of Guwahati. In 1972, the capital of Assam was moved to Dispur, a neighbourhood in Guwahati.

The Brahmaputra river flows to the north of the city which is bordered on the south by the foothills of the Shillong plateau and to the east by the Amchang Wildlife Sanctuary. The Bharalu River, a tributary of the Brahmaputra, flows right through the heart of the city and to the south-west of the city lies Dipor Bil, a permanent freshwater lake with no prominent inflows apart from monsoon run-off from the hills that lie to the south of the lake and drains into the Brahmaputra, acting as a natural stormwater reservoir for the city. There are also multiple hills within the city limits.

The Umananda Temple is located on Peacock Island that lies on the Brahmaputra River and is named after and dedicated to Lord Shiva. The name Umananda comes from the words, Uma, another name for Goddess Parvati and Ananda meaning happiness. Peacock Island is one of the smallest inhabited islands with the temple and its surroundings a haven for nature lovers. . The Island is home to a very rare and endangered species called the Golden Langur who are considered highly sacred. The temple is situated on top of a hill called Bhasmakala or Bhasmakuta. The island was originally built in 1694 by King Gadadhar Singha but was destroyed by an earthquake in 1897 and later rebuilt by a wealthy local merchant. The Umananda temple was crafted beautifully by the skilled Assamese workmen and aside from Lord Shiva, there are 10 other Hindu Gods whose idols reside in the shrines. The sanctum sanctorum encloses the rock on which Lord Shiva is said to have sat to meditate. According to a legend, Lord Shiva resided on this island as Bhayananda and it is said that at the beginning of creation, Lord Shiva sprinkled ashes here and imparted the supreme knowledge to his wife, Goddess Parvati. It is said that the Goddess Urvasi resides on this island and brings Amrit or nectar to Goddess Kamakhya which is why the island is also called Urvasi island. Even the Bhasmakuta hill on which the temple is located has a story. Legend says that when Kamadeva disturbed Lord Shiva during his meditation, he turned him into ash on this hillock, hence earning it the name of Bhasmakuta. The temple can be reached by a winding flight of stairs and is an ode to the mastery of the Assamese craftsmen and architects. Avoid visiting the island during monsoons as access to the island can be denied due to the rising water levels of the River Brahmaputra as well as due to flash floods. The temple is open from 5:30 am to 6 pm every day.

Located on the Nilanchal Hill in the western part of Guwahati,  the Kamakhya Temple is one of the most revered shrines of Goddess Shakti in India. According to the Hindu scriptures, there are four important Shakti Peethas or temples with the highest powers of divinity in the country and the Kamakhya Temple is one of them. The temple celebrates the power of the woman to give birth and is regarded as extremely auspicious among the followers of the Tantrik sect of Hinduism and was built and reconstructed multiple times between the 8th and 17th centuries. The main entrance of the temple is designed with carvings decorated with flowers and the temple has a massive dome and is decked up during the Ambubachi Festival and Fair held in June. One of the oldest temples in the country, the Kamakhya Temple has a long history. It is believed that this temple was built during the Mleccha dynasty in the 8th or 9th centuries. The Kamarupa Kings from Indra Pala to Dharma Pala were ardent followers of the Tantrik cult and at that time this temple became an important destination for Tantrikism. The Kalika Purana was composed in the 10th century and enhanced the importance of the temple as a seat for Tantrik sacrifices and sorcery. Mystic Buddhism or Vajrayana emerged here around that time and several Buddhist professors in Tibet were known to belong to Kamakhya.

The Kamakhya temple was destroyed during Hussein Sha’s invasion of the Kamata kingdom, the ruins remaining undiscovered until the 1500s when King Vishwasingha revived the temple as a site of worship. The Kamakhya temple was reconstructed in 1565 during the reign of his son and ever since then, the shrine has been an important religious centre for Hindus. The current structure of the temple is said to be of the Nilachal type, another word for architecture with a hemispherical dome and a cruciform shaped base. The temple has four chambers aligned from east to west and is described as the Garbhagriha or the main sanctum sanctorum rests on a base that has several sunken panels embellished with the sculptures of Ganesha and other Hindu deities. The lower parts of the Garbhagriha are made of stone while the zenith is in the shape of an octagon and is made out of bricks. The Garbhariha is situated below ground level and can be reached by a series of rock-cut steps. A rock fissure in the shape of a vulva-shaped depression is present here and worshipped as the goddess Kamakhya. The depression is filled with water from an underground spring and this is the general pattern of all the Garbhagrihas in this temple. Towards the west of the Kamakhya temple lies the Calantha, which is a square-shaped chamber of the atchala type. Small moveable idols of Gods and Goddesses are found here, while the walls of this chamber have many images and inscriptions carved onto its surface. To the west of the Calantha is the Panchratna which is a large rectangular construction having a flat roof and five small spires protruding from its roof. Towards the west of the Pancharatna is the last structure of Natamandir which has an apsidal end and ridged roof of the Ranghar type Ahom style. The walls of the Natamandir has inscriptions from Rajewas Singha and Gaurinath Singha inscribed upon them.

Legend has it that during the month of Ashadh or June according to the Gregorian Calendar, the Bramhaputra River that flows beside the temple turns red. It is believed that this is a divine phenomenon and that it happens because the Goddess menstruates during this time. While some people claim it is due to the high iron and Cinnabar deposits in the water, others continue to believe in the miracle and so every year during the Ambubachi Mela, the river and the temple attracts thousands of devotees. The Ambubachi Festival is a celebration of the Goddess’ fertility and the celebration hinges on the belief that the Mother Goddess, Kamakhya, Shiva’s young bride, is menstruating at this time. The Temple remains closed and the Goddess is bathed after those three days after which the normal activities of the temple are resumed. It is believed that at the time of monsoon when this festival is observed, Mother Earth is at her fertile best due to the rain nurturing her womb aka the soil.

On regular days, the temple remains open from 8 am to 1 pm and then again between 2:30 to 5:30 p. Entry fees for the general public are free while for the special entry it is INR 101 and direct entry is INR 501.

The ISKCON temple in Guwahati is known as the Shri Shri Rukmini Krishna, after Rukmani, the wife of Lord Krishna. It is located on a hilltop of the Ulubari Chariali area and is constructed of white marble. The interiors of the temple include the deities of Lord Krishna and Rukmani and there are various halls inside the temple for preaching the teaching of the society which is based on Vaishnavism. The temple is surrounded by lush green gardens which inspires quiet contemplation of the divine.

Dedicated to Goddess Bhuvaneshwari, the white shrine is perched atop a hill adjacent to the. The Bhubaneswari Temple provides visitors with a magnificent panoramic view of the city with the sunset views on the Brahmaputra River as viewed from the hill a must-see when in Guwahati. Though the temple is high upon a hill, it requires a 20-minute walk from the bus stop.

Perched on top of the Chitrachal or Navagraha Hill, the Navagraha Temple is dedicated to the nine celestial bodies. Believed to be the dwelling of the Sun, the temple enshrines nine Shiva Lingas in different coloured clothes representing planetary gods including Chandra or the Moon, Mangala or Mars, Budha or Mercury, Brihaspati or Jupiter, Shukra or Venus, Shani or Saturn, Rahu or the North Lunar Node and Ketu or the South Lunar Node surrounding the Sun or Surya in the middle. Built in 1752 by the Asom King, Raja Rajesvar Singha, the Navagraha Temple is built in the old Shikara style and is known to have survived major earthquakes. Instead of a roof, there is a huge dome with a beehive pattern. The temple premises are also used as a research centre for both astronomy and astrology and offer spectacular views of the Brahmaputra river and the valley below. The temple is open from sunrise to sunset daily.

Perched on the Sukreshwar or Itakhuli Hill on the southern bank of the Brahmaputra river, the Sukreshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. Built in 1744, by the Ahom King Pramatta Singha, the temple was improvised and financial changes were made in 1759 by Rajeswar Singha. The temple offers an enchanting view of the valley below with a few steps leading down to the river and is popular for the spectacular sunrise and sunset. The temple is popular for conducting post-death rituals and there is a common belief that rituals here can help the dead attain peace or moksha. The temple complex also houses a Vishnu temple and a few chambers to conduct religious ceremonies. It is also said to house the largest Shivalinga in India. As per Kalika Purana, this hill was originally shaped like a hump of an elephant and hence known as Hastagiri. Open all through the year from 6 am to 7 pm, the best time to visit is during Mahashivaratri.

The Ugra Tara Temple enshrines the deity of Tara Devi. Built in 1725 by the Ahom ruler Siva Singh, the Shakti temple is unique in the sense that it does not have an idol like other temples do, instead, the inner sanctum sanctorum houses a small pit of water which is worshipped as Goddess Tara who is believed to be an incarnation of Goddess Parvati. There is also a water tank called Jorepukhuri, situated to the east of the temple which survived a devastating earthquake that destroyed the upper part of the temple. Goddess Ugra Tara is revered as Goddess Kamakhya and is showered with offerings and sacrifices and it is believed that the Goddess likes consuming meat, coconut and liquor; hence, get offered the same. According to legend, the navel of Goddess Sati is said to have fallen here while another legend suggests that when Lord Yama, the God of Hell complained to Lord Brahma that nobody was being sent to hell from the Kamarupa region because of its sacredness, Lord Brahma, in turn, went to Lord Shiva, and he, in turn, sent Goddess Ugra to drive away from her people and she sent in her army to bring them back. The army met Sage Vashishtha on its way back and disturbed his meditation. In anguish and rage, the sage cursed Goddess Ugra and Lord Shiva and from then on, all the Vedic sadhanas were given up in the Kamarupa region and people started worshipping the Goddess who became a Goddess of the Vamachara sadhana and the army became the Mlecchas. Goddess Ugratara is also worshipped in Buddhism. The temple is open between 5:30 am and 8 pm daily.

Perched on the hillock of Shukleshwar on the Shukleshwar ghats of the Brahmaputra river, the Janardana Temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu. While the origin of the temple cannot be traced, it is believed to have been renovated sometime in the 17th century. The temple is an amalgamation of Buddhist and Hindu architectural styles, incorporating design elements from both with milky white interior walls with elaborate carvings of deities. The sanctum sanctorum of the temple enshrines a Buddhist statue and is revered as a place of meditation and worship by both Hindu and Buddhists. According to the myth associated with the temple, Lord Buddha is believed to be an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and he is known as Lord Janardana. Lord Janandana once fought and defeated the mighty demon Raja Bali in the disguise of a Vamana or a dwarf to protect the people from the wrath of the asuras or the demons. The battle spot came to be known as Janardana Tirtha and later, a temple was constructed around it known as the Janardana Temple. The temple is open from sunrise to sunset every day.

Located 40 km north of Guwahati, the Madan Kamdev Temple is an archaeological find in Baihata Chariali and is spread over an area of 500 metres, perched on top of a hillock. Here, the idols and sculptures of Madan Kamdev are scattered all over and the idols have detailed architecture and carvings on them.

Assam’s capital since 1973, Dispur is a suburb of Guwahati and houses some of the important buildings of the state like Assam Secretariat, State Emergency Operations Center and State Assembly House. Dispur is also famous as a tea auction market and is has beautiful weather throughout the year.

Pandu is another Guwahati suburb and is named after King Pandu, the father of the Pandavas. The Tila Hills here has a temple dedicated to Pandu known as the Pandunath temple. Five Ganesha idols representing the five Pandavas are found here and it is believed that during their exile, the Pandavas hid here under the disguise of Ganesha. The place also presents various other idols.

Built over the Brahmaputra River, the Saraighat Bridge is the first railway-cum-road bridge. The construction of the bridge was started in 1958 and it was first inaugurated for goods trucks in 1962, by then Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. A year later, on 7th June 1963, it was open to public traffic. The double-decker bridge has a road highway on top with a rail line below. Originally built for the North Frontier Railway, the bridge is a vital link between the North East region and the rest of the country; it has Lachit Borphukan Park situated on the south end and Chilarai Park situated on the north end. The 1.4 km long bridge connects both banks of the Brahmaputra river in Saraighat, a small town famous for the huge war between Ahoms and Mughals. An adjacent three-lane concrete bridge was also created and inaugurated in 2017.

The Assam State Zoo cum Botanical Garden or the Guwahati Zoo as it is popularly known spreads over an area of 430 acres of a densely vegetated forest area known as the Hengrabari Forest Area in the centre of Guwahati. Often referred to as the green lung of the city, the zoo is the largest of its kind in the North-East region and has landscape gardens, wildlife and a serene environment. Established in 1958, it is home to 113 different species of animal, with more than 900 animals, birds and reptiles. Over the years, the zoo has created a charming botanical garden in its vicinity. The main attractions of the zoo are the fauna exhibits, the botanical garden, a museum, a reptile house and a herbarium collection. The zoo has started several captive breeding programs to increase the population of endangered species like the one-horned rhinoceros, gharials and white tigers.

Located 18 km southwest of Guwahati, Dipor Bil or Deepor Beel is a freshwater lake in the former channel of the Brahmaputra river. Sprawling over an area of 40 sq km, the lake was declared as a Bird Sanctuary in 1989 owing to its rich biodiversity and heritage and is home to a vast variety of bird species. Dipor Bil offers a spectacular view of the fascinating wetland and rich forest ecosystem with as many as 19,000 different species of rare and endangered birds. In 2002, the Ramsar Convention listed it as a Ramsar site and Birdlife International has also declared it as Important Bird Area (IBA). Winters are the best time to visit as the weather conditions attract hibernating birds from far west and south countries. As per research 18 varieties of phytoplanktons have been found at the site including rare plants like Euryale Ferox, Potamogeton crispus etc. Dipor Bil has been derived from the Sanskrit word Dipor meaning elephants and bil meaning wetland or lake. It is believed that the lakeside was once an important dockyard for the Tai- Ahom and the Mughals and at one point in time, the Kampitha and Rambrai Syiemship which was the political authority of Meghalaya had control over this site. Known to be the largest lake or beel in the Brahmaputra valley of Western Assam, Dipor Bil has also been classified as representative of wetland type under the Burma Monsoon Forest biogeographic region.

Chandubi Lake is a natural lake born when an earthquake hit the region in 1897 and the forest that was there vanished and became the lake. It is located at the foot of the Garo Hills and is surrounded by tea gardens, deep forests and tiny villages and is free from pollution because it is slightly inaccessible. Spread over 2000 hectares, it is a lovely picnic spot that attracts a large number of migratory birds during the winter months. The lake forms the breeding ground of the birds, both residential and migratory. Chandubi which means the setting sun is thought to have gotten the name because an unknown British officer was mesmerised by the sunset here. Another version claims that the legendary merchant Chanda Sadagar used this beautiful lake as a transit point for his business and as the lake grew popular because of the merchant, it eventually came to be associated with his name.  The prominent feature of the lake is the natural lagoon that was formed. The Chandubi Festival usually takes place in the first week of January when local villagers come together to perform traditional dance forms and celebrate their unique culture.

Located in the heart of the city, Nehru Park is a charming garden built in 2000 and named after India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru. The park was originally a church with several cemeteries, which was later converted into a park. Nehru Park boasts of 45 sculptures carved out of concrete depicting various dance forms of the state as well as an open-air theatre, a rock garden, a charming lawn and a few artificial ponds. There is also a jogging track and a children’s garden with rides. The musical fountain which starts once night has fallen is a local favourite. The park is closed on Thursdays and other days is open between 10 am and 8 pm. The entry fee for adults is INR 10 per person and a child pays INR 5.

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The Assam State Museum or the Assam Rajyik State Museum is one of the most famous museums of Northeast India that gives insights into the ancient and modern history of the region. The museum was established during the British colonial rule in 1940 and set up by the Kamarupa Anusandhan Samiti, Assam research society to showcase the history, sculptures, and handicrafts of Northeast India. The Museum offers an extensive collection of artefacts and sculptures dating back to the 5th to the 12th centuries to World War II and is divided into various sections each one showcasing a different era in history. The manuscript section displays the ancient manuscripts in Assamese, Tai and Myanmarese with a collection of these documents written on the bark of old trees and well-preserved. The arms and ammunition section has a vast collection of swords and armours from the Medieval to the Mughal period including the Ahom dynasty from the 1200s as well as a collection of ammunition from World War II. The prehistoric terracotta section has on display statues from the Indus Valley Civilization and various terracotta objects extracted from the different parts of Northeast India. The numismatics and metallic sculptures section have a collection of metal relics of Lord Vishnu, Goddess Durga and the Buddha along with a collection of coins from the Mughal and Ahom dynasties. The epigraphy section has a collection of stone and copper inscriptions belonging from the 5th to the 18th centuries while the natural history gallery has the collection of the natural biodiversity of the state including the life of a one-horned rhino. The museum also has on display the various handicrafts and handmade objects of Northeast India along with reconstructed tribal huts. Opened in June 1984, the conservation lab helps to conserve the present collection. During the summer months, the museum is open between 10 am and 5 pm while it is open from 10 am to 4:30 pm during the winter months. The entry fee is INR 5 while a camera fee of INR 10 is levied in case visitors want to photograph the exhibits.

The Guwahati War Memorial opened to the public in December 2016 and is a local favourite. The memorial houses a replica of the Amar Jawan or the eternal soldier and depictions of the Battle of Saraighat between the Mughals and the Ahoms. The entrance is decorated with an army tank used in the war donated by the Indian Army and the Indian Air Force.  There are also a few sculptures on a boat showcasing war scenes on the water. The memorial also displays scenes from the Kargil war, the attack on Karachi by the Indian Navy in 1971 and the Sino-Indian war.

The Regional Science Centre is one of the 27 such centres maintained and administered by the Government of India’s National Council of Science Museums. Locally known as the Science Museum, this is a wonderful initiative to educate, enlighten and entertain the visitors through the medium of science and technology. Established in 1994, the museum houses rare instruments, machinery, rare science equipment and demo experiment setups. The science centre also boasts of interactive displays to learn from, both for kids and adults, ranging from everyday activities to prehistoric exhibits and non-formal science education. In addition to the permanent galleries showcasing various exhibits, the museum also has a dynamic science park, a mock prehistoric park, a superb 3D animation theatre, a spacious auditorium and an inbuilt aquarium. The Science Centre was the first in the entire northeast to have a stereoscopic digital 3D cinema projection facility and another highlight is the Digital Planetarium which provides one with a unique experience of artificial sky gazing. The Magic and Miracle Show enlighten visitors against the misuse and superstitions of magic and in the process educates them to the wonders of science through which magic is possible. The Super Cold Show demonstrates experiments on different elements to exhibit different behaviours on being exposed to super cold conditions while the Sky Observation Programmes enable visitors to witness celestial bodies with the help of a 6-inch refractive telescope. There is also a tiny butterfly park that demonstrates the lifecycle of a butterfly. The science centre is open between 10 am and 5:30 pm but the ticket counter closes at 5 pm. Charges are INR 25 per person for Indians and INR 50 for foreigners. The planetarium show takes place between 12 noon and 3 pm and has a fee of INR 20 while the Super Cold Show which takes place between 11 am and 4 pm has a ticket fee of INR 10. The 3D Film Show and the mock coal mine have multiple timings and have a ticket fee of INR 25 and INR 10 respectively.

At the Guwahati Planetarium, apart from the regular Sky watching sessions, special shows are projected on a dome-shaped overhead screen. These shows are available in Hindi, English as well as Assamese.

Named after the poet-playwright and reformer, the Srimanta Sankardev Kalakshetra is a cultural institution whose aim is to promote the culture, art and tradition of Assam. Built in 1990, the Kalakshetra showcases the artistic excellence of the Northeast and is sprawled over a vast area, boasting a museum, a library, an art gallery and a children’s park among others. The complex has been constructed in the conventional Assamese design and showcases the lives of the local people, groups and sub-groups of the state. The Kalakshetra is open between 10 am and 7:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for Indian adults, INR 10 for children below the age of 14 while foreigners need to pay INR 100. There are camera charges of INR 10 for a still camera and INR 100 for a video camera.

The Maati Centre is an initiative by a former World Bank employee Pabitra Lama Sarmah and her husband, Rishi Raj Sarmah. Established to promote the talents and hand crafted works of local artisans from nonprofit organizations like Tihar Jail and Dastakar Ranthambore, the centre has emerged as a wonderful blend of local culture and regional arts. With the idea to promote handicrafts and heritage, Maati Centre provides a platform to showcase young and independent artists and gives them a broader exposure. The centre protects, documents and maps the oral and folk and tribal arts to restore the long lost culture.

Festivals of India: Kojagari Pournnima

Also known as Sharad Purnima, Kumara Purnima and Navanna Purnima, the festival of Kojagiri Purnima will take place tomorrow. Kojagiri Purnima is a harvest festival celebrated on the full moon day of the Hindu lunar month of Ashwin which is around September to October, marking the end of the monsoon season. It is said that Kojagiri Purnima is the day when the moon is seen with all the sixteen kalas, which are the different phases of the moon. It is also called Kojagiri Lakshmi Purnima as the day is dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi.

On this auspicious day, many divine pairs like Radha Krishna, Shiva Parvati, and Lakshmi Narayan are worshipped along with the moon and are offered flowers and kheer, a sweet dish made of rice and milk. Deities in temples are usually dressed in white signifying the brightness of the moon and many observe a full day of fasting on this day.

Kojagari Purnima is all about the observance of the Kojagara Vrata or fast. People perform this Vrata under the moonlight after fasting for the day. Lakshmi, the Hindu Goddess of Wealth, is worshipped on this day as it is believed to be her birthday. Lord Indra, the God of Rains, along with his elephant Airavata is also worshipped. It is believed that on the night of Sharad Purnima, the raas which is a form of dance of Radha Krishna also takes place along with their gopis or attendants. To participate in this divine raas, Lord Shiva takes the form of Gopeshwar Mahadev. Vivid descriptions of this night are given in the Brahma Purana, the Skanda Purana, and the Linga Purana. It is also believed that, on this full moon night, Goddess Lakshmi descends on the earth to watch the actions of human beings.

People usually stay awake at night to celebrate the festival and special pujas are offered to goddess Lakshmi and it is believed that the moon is close to earth on this day. Many sages believe that the moonlight on this night have healing power and is beneficial for mind and soul. As the rays of the moon are said to have curative properties, people come out of their house at night to soak in the moonlight. In many regions, sweets like kheer are prepared on this day and are left under the rays of the moon. These sweets are consumed and distributed later as prasad. In some regions, people do not see the moon directly on this night. A vessel is filled with boiling milk and the reflection of the moon in that vessel is seen. This is also the day to begin the Purnimasi fasting for the year. This fasting is observed by newly-wed women.

This day is celebrated differently in different parts of the country. In Odisha, on this day which is celebrated as Kumar Lakshmi or Lakshmi Puja, unmarried women keep fast with the popular belief of getting their suitable groom. This festival starts with maidens welcoming the Sun God at sunrise with a coconut-leaf-made-vessel called kula filled with fried paddy containing 7 fruits including coconut, banana, cucumber, betel nut, sugar-cane and guava followed by an aarti. In the evening they break their fast by preparing a dish containing the fried paddy of the morning along with the fruits, yoghurt and jaggery to offer to the Moon God in front of the tulsi plant. After this maidens play games and sing songs under the light of the full moon. It is one of the most important festivals of the state and is dedicated to Kumar or Lord Kartikeya, the son of Lord Shiva. According to legend, this was the day when Lord Kartikeya engaged in battle against a demon called Tarakasur. Although the day is dedicated to Kartikeya or Kumar, there are no specific puja or rituals for him. Some people light 108 lamps for the puja. Traditionally, cool milk and rice flakes are consumed on this night.

In Bengali households, the festival is widely celebrated as Lokkhi Pujo. On this day, devotees of Goddess Laxmi observe a fast to please the deity by waking up early, preparing delicious bhog or offering filled with fruits and the delicious payesh and offer these delights in the grand puja conducted in the evening. The ritual of drawing beautiful alpnanas which is a special type of rangoli and paduka or the feet of Goddess Lakshmi is also common in several Bengali households. It is believed that Goddess Laxmi loves these artful decorations and enters the homes of devotees which are clean and beautifully maintained. The alpana and the Goddess’ feet are drawn using a special type of paste made of powdered rice. In Hindu mythology, Goddess Lakshmi is said to symbolise wealth and prosperity and her feet are always shown coming into the house, symbolising Goddess Lakshmi’s entry and presence inside the house.

In Mithila, an offering of paan or the betal leaf, makhana or fox nut, batasha or sugar crystals and kheer or payas which is a milk sweet is made specially for the diety. These delicacies are kept out in the open overnight so that they are bathed in the pious Sharad Purnima moonlight also known as Amrit Barkha or the nectar rain. The occasion is also believed to hold immense significance for a newly wedded couple. People clean the courtyard and decorate it by drawing elaborate rangolis using rice flour paste and the household Gods are place in the courtyard and worshipped. It is an important festival for the newly-weds where the house is decorated by the new bride and the newly-wed couple spend the night playing games with other family members. The new bride’s family sends new clothes for the couple and the in-laws along with a big basket filled with items like silver pennies or tortoise or fishes, cardamom, threads, sweets and Mithila paintings. Another ritual followed is that people keep spicy food out along with a small amount of a sweet dish with a larger serving of the sweet dish kept inside. This practice is based on the belief that the Alakshmi brings bad luck and she likes spicy food, whereas her twin sister, Lakshmi brings good luck and likes sweet dishes. So the people keep spicy food outside for Alakshmi to have her fill and go away without entering the house. A small portion of the sweet dish is kept outside the house to invite Lakshmi to invite her in for a larger serving and stay inside. Goddess Kali is also worshipped in some parts of the Mithila region.

In Maharashtra, the family’s eldest child is honoured on this day. In many parts of the Gujarat, garba, a form of dance with many people takes place in the presence of the moon light.

There are several stories and legends associated with Sharad Purnima or Kojagari Purnima. According to legend, Goddess Lakshmi pays a visit to homes and showers blessing on those she finds awake. The word Kojagiri means one who is awake.  In one legend, there was once a King in the eastern part of the country, who promised his artisans that he would buy any object that remained unsold. One artisan made an idol of Alakshmi or the Goddess of Poverty. Keeping his promise the king had to buy the idol and soon misery struck his kingdom. The erstwhile prosperous kingdom was in deep peril, when someone advised the queen to observe the Kojagari Lakshmi vrat on the full moon night of Ashwin, and do the Lakshmi puja as per the rituals. Soon, the kingdom won back its lost glory and established itself once again.

The festival is also known as the Kaumudi celebration where Kaumudi means moonlight and it celebrates the divine Ras Leela of Lord Krishna with gopis. According to another popular legend, the divine ras leela was performed by Krishna along with his consort Radha and the gopis of Vrindavan on Sharad purnima. It sis said that the gopis were woken up by the sweet music from Krishna’s flute. They sneaked out of their homes and came to the forest where they danced with Krishna on the night of Sharad Purnima. Krishna replicated himself to dance with each one of them. On this night Krishna showered bhakti raas on Radha and the gopis. The day is also celebrated by lovers. Couples express their love for each other on this night of full moon.

While they fast, the people also sing devotional songs praising the deity asking her to take shelter in their homes. The devotees break the fast at night by taking some parched rice or chiwda and milk. One can consume milk, coconut water, kheer, dry fruits and fresh fruits while fasting.

Festivals of India: Karva Chauth

On Sunday, hundreds of thousands of women, mostly belonging to the northern part of India will take part in a ritual immortalised in hundreds of Indian films, the festival of Karva Chauth.

Karva Chauth is a festival celebrated by Hindu women from mostly the northern part of the Indian subcontinent on the fourth day after the full moon or Purnima in the month of Kartika, about mid-October to mid-November. On Karwa Chauth, married women, especially in North India, observe a fast from sunrise to moonrise for the safety and longevity of their husbands. The Karva Chauth fast is traditionally celebrated in the states of Delhi, Haryana, Rajasthan, Punjab, Jammu and Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Himachal Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh and is celebrated as Atla Tadde in Andhra Pradesh.

Karva is another word for a pot or a small earthen pot of water and chauth means fourth in a reference to the fact that the festival falls on the fourth day of the dark-fortnight, or Krishna paksh, of the month of Kartik. One hypothesis for this festival is that military campaigns were often conducted by men in far off places whereby men would leave their wives and children at home to go off to the war and their wives would often pray for their safe return. The festival also coincides with the wheat-sowing time or the beginning of the Rabi crop cycle. Big earthen pots in which wheat is stored are sometimes called Karwas, so the fast may have begun as a prayer for a good harvest in this predominantly wheat-eating Northwestern region.

Another story about the origin of this festival relates to the bond of feminine friendship. With the custom of arranged marriage being prevalent, the newlywed is supposed to reside with her husband and in-laws. Being new to the family, the custom arose of befriending another woman as her friend or kangan saheli or sister or dharam behn for life. The friendship would be sanctified through a Hindu ritual during the marriage ceremony itself. The bride’s friend would usually be of the same age or slightly older, typically married into the same village, so that she would not go away and not directly related to her in-laws, so there was no conflict of interest later. This emotional and psychological bond would be considered akin to a blood relationship and it is said that the Karva Chauth festival evolved to include celebrating this special bond of friendship.

There are legends associated with the Karva Chauth festival. In some tellings, the tales are interlinked, with one acting as a frame story for another. The story of Queen Veervati is about a beautiful queen called Veervati who was the only sister of seven loving brothers. She spent her first Karwa Chauth as a married woman at her parents’ house. She began a strict fast after sunrise but, by evening, was desperately waiting for the moonrise as she suffered severe thirst and hunger. Her seven brothers couldn’t bear to see their sister in such distress and created a mirror in a sacred fig or peepal tree that made it look as though the moon had risen. The sister mistook it for the moon and broke her fast. The moment she took the first morsel of food, she sneezed. In her second morsel she found hair. After the third she learned the news of her husband, the King, was dead. Heartbroken, she wept through the night until a Goddess appeared and ask why she crying. When the queen explained her distress, the Goddess revealed how she had been tricked by her brothers and instructed her to repeat the Karwa Chauth fast with complete devotion. When Veervati repeated the fast, Lord Yama, the God of death was forced to restore her husband to life. In a variant of this story, the brothers build a massive fire behind a mountain instead and trick their sister by convincing her that the glow is the moon. She breaks her fast and word arrives that her beloved husband has died. She immediately begins running to her husband’s house, which is somewhat distant, and is intercepted by Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. Goddess Parvati reveals the trickery to her, cuts her own little finger to give the wife a few drops of her holy blood, and instructs her to be careful in keeping the complete fast in the future. The wife sprinkles Parvati’s blood on her dead husband and, coming back to life, they are reunited.

In a legend from the Mahabharata, Draupadi, too, is said to have observed this fast. Once Arjun went to the Nilgiris for penance and the rest of the Pandavas faced many problems in his absence. Draupadi, out of desperation, remembered Lord Krishna and asked for help. Lord Krishna reminded her that on an earlier occasion, when Goddess Parvati had sought Lord Shiva’s guidance under similar circumstances, she had been advised to observe the fast of Karwa Chauth. In some tellings of this legend, Shiva tells Parvati the story of Veervati to describe the Karwa Chauth fast. Draupadi followed the instructions and observed the fast with all its rituals. Consequently, the Pandavas were able to overcome their problems.

The legend of Karva tells us the story of a woman named Karwa who was deeply devoted to her husband. Once, while bathing at a river, her husband was caught by a crocodile. Karva bound the crocodile with cotton yarn and asked Lord Yama, the God of death to send the crocodile to hell. When Yama refused, Karva threatened to curse Yama and destroy him. Yama, who was afraid of being cursed by a devoted wife, sent the crocodile to hell and blessed Karva’s husband with long life and Karva and her husband enjoyed many years of wedded bliss.

A few days before Karva Chauth, married women would buy new Karvas or spherical clay pots, 7-9 inches in diameter and of 2–3 litres capacity and paint them on the outside with beautiful designs. Inside, they would put bangles and ribbons, home-made candy and sweets, make-up items, and small clothes. The women would then visit each other on the day of Karva Chauth and exchange these Karvas. Women begin preparing for Karva Chauth a few days in advance, by buying adornments or shringar, jewelry, and prayer or puja items, and the decorated prayer plate or puja thali. On the day of the fast, women from Punjab awake to eat and drink just before sunrise. In Uttar Pradesh, celebrants eat soot feni with milk in sugar on the eve of the festival. It is said that this helps them go without water the next day. In Punjab, sargi is an important part of this pre-dawn meal and always includes fenia. It is traditional for the sargi to be sent or given to the fasting woman by her mother-in-law. If she lives with her mother-in-law, the pre-dawn meal is prepared by the mother-in-law. On the occasion of Karva Chauth, fasting women choose to wear traditional wear like a sari or lehenga.

The fast begins at dawn. Fasting women do not eat during the day. In traditional observances of the fast, the fasting woman usually does no housework. Women apply henna and other cosmetics to themselves and each other and the day passes in meeting friends and relatives. In some regions, it is customary to give and exchange painted clay pots filled with goodies. Since Karva Chauth follows soon after the Kharif crop harvest in the rural areas, it is a good time for community festivities and gift exchanges. Parents often send gifts to their married daughters and their children. In the evening, a community women-only ceremony is held. Participants dress in fine clothing and wear jewellery and henna, and in some regions dress in the complete finery of their wedding dresses. The dresses are frequently red, gold or orange, which are considered auspicious colours. The fasting women sit in a circle with their puja thalis and depending on the region and community, a version of the story of Karva Chauth is narrated, with regular pauses. The storyteller is usually an older woman or a priest, if one is present. During the pauses, the festival song is sung collectively with the singers passing their thalis around in the circle. In Uttar Pradesh, a priest or an elderly woman of the family narrates the story of Beejabeti or Veervati. Thereafter, the fasting women offer baayna or a melange of goodies to the idols and hand them over to their mother-in-law or sister-in-law.

The ceremony concluded, the women await the rising of the moon. Once the moon is visible, depending on the region and community, it is customary for a fasting woman, to view the moon or its reflection in a vessel filled with water, through a sieve, or through a dupatta. Water is offered to the moon to secure its blessings with women praying briefly for their husband’s life in some regions. It is believed that at this stage, spiritually strengthened by her fast, the woman can successfully confront and defeat death, personified by Lord Yama. Her husband then takes the water from the thali and offers it to his wife and by taking her first sip of water during the day, the fast is now broken and the woman can have a complete meal.

In modern Northern and Northwestern Indian society, Karva Chauth is considered to be a romantic festival, symbolising the love between a husband and wife. Thanks to Bollywood, Karva Chauth isn’t limited to be a North Indian or Punjabi festival anymore and is now glamorised and widely popular in pan India. There have been calls to modify or eliminate the festival by commentators who hold it to be anti-women and to perpetuate the notion of women’s dependence on men. Karva Chauth has also been cited as a symbol of cultural repression of women by some Indian feminists with others calling the festival empowering for women because the festival enables them to quit housework completely for the day and expect gifts from their husbands.

To those celebrating the festival, here’s wishing you a very Happy Karva Chauth!

In My Hands Today…

The Elephant Chaser’s Daughter – Shilpa Raj

Saved by her grandmother from being killed at birth for having been born a female, Shilpa’s life took many unexpected turns and twists through her early years. She faced abandonment by her mother, the formidable constraints placed on her by her family, and the barbs of village elders bound by hundreds of years of oppressive practices and customs that subjugate women. Shilpa is torn between the contrasting lives she leads: one of servitude and injustice experienced by her family; the other of opportunity and empowerment offered by a good education in a school started by a philanthropist.

Just when all seems settled, an unforeseen death under mysterious circumstances shatters whatever stability remains in her life. Pulled in opposite directions, and torn between despair and dreams, Shilpa finally makes a choice for her future. Is she strong enough to stand up to the people she loves, and pursue what she wants?

At its heart The Elephant Chaser’s Daughter is about hope, when all seems lost. Written with raw honesty and grit, this is a deeply moving memoir of a young girl confronting her ‘untouchable’ status in a caste-based society, and her aspirations for modernity.

Travel Bucket List: India – Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu Part 3

Dadra and Nagar Haveli

Dadra and Nagar Haveli is composed of two separate geographical entities: Nagar Haveli, wedged between Maharashtra and Gujarat and 1 km to the northwest, the smaller enclave of Dadra, which is surrounded by Gujarat. Silvassa is the administrative headquarters of Dadra and Nagar Haveli. Dadra and Nagar Haveli was ruled by the Portuguese from 1783 until the mid-20th century and captured by pro-India forces in 1954 before being annexed to India as a union territory in 1961 and was merged with Daman and Diu to form the new union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu on 26 January 2020.

The history of Dadra and Nagar Haveli begins with the defeat of the Koli chieftains of the region by the Rajput kings in 1262. With the rise of Maratha power, Shivaji Maharaj captured the region, but Somshah Rana recaptured it in 1690. After the Treaty of Vasai in 1739, Vasai and the surrounding territories came under Maratha rule and soon after they captured Ramnagar but reinstated the ruler, Ramdeo, under conditions. But the Marathas soon captured Nagar Haveli and the surrounding region. The Portuguese were granted the area of Nagar Haveli in 1783 based on the Friendship Treaty of 1779 as compensation for damage to the Portuguese frigate Santana by the Maratha Navy in 1772. In 1785 the Portuguese purchased Dadra, annexing it to Portuguese India. In 1818, the Maratha Empire was defeated by the British in the Third Anglo-Maratha War, and so the Portuguese became the effective rulers of Dadra and Nagar Haveli. Under Portuguese rule, Dadra and Nagar Haveli were part of the Daman district and the two territories formed a single concelho or municipality, named Nagar Haveli until 1885. The Portuguese rule lasted until 1954, when Dadra and Nagar Haveli was captured by supporters of the Indian Union and was the first colony to be freed from Portuguese rule by the Indian Union in 1954, after nearly two centuries of Portuguese rule. From 1954 to 1961, Dadra and Nagar Haveli existed as a de facto state known as Free Dadra and Nagar Haveli but was still recognised internationally as Portuguese possessions. It was merged with the Indian Union in 1961and incorporated as a Union Territory and merged to create a new Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu on 26 January 2020.

Dadra and Nagar Haveli is spread over 491 sq km and comprises two separate geographical units. The larger part, Nagar Haveli, spans a roughly C-shaped area upriver from the city of Daman on the coast, at the centre of which, straddling the border with Gujarat, is the Madhuban reservoir. The smaller enclave of Dadra is a short distance to the northwest. The union territory is in the middle of the undulating watershed of the Daman Ganga River, which flows through Nagar Haveli and later forms the short southern border of Dadra. The towns of Dadra and Silvassa lie on the north bank of the river. The Western Ghats range rises to the east, and the foothills of the range occupy the eastern portion of the district. Maghval, a small enclave village belonging to Gujarat is located within Nagar Haveli, just south of Silvassa.

Silvassa, the administrative headquarters of the union territory is located in the Nagar Haveli pocket and has a large number of factories and industries providing significant government revenue, which allows the city to maintain a low level of taxation. Silvassa is also considered to be the home of Warli culture, the language spoken by the Warli people, similar to both Marathi and Gujarati.

Located around a lake, Island Garden has quaint wooden bridges, pretty thatched huts and paddleboat rides with flowers and a path within it that provides a track for those wanting to walk or jog. Meaning Green Forest, the Hirwa Van Gardens is a popular picnic spot with cascading waterfalls and colourful flowerbeds interspersed amongst the lush green gardens offering its visitors mesmerising sights. 40 km from Silvassa, Dudhani is a large lake which, with the construction of the Madhuban Dam on the Daman Ganga has resulted in the formation of a waterfront in Dudhani. The Nakshatra Garden is an Astro-themed garden, with a large variety of plants and trees linked to zodiac signs. The garden has a dedicated play area for kids as well as numerous little ponds and various species of trees linked by small bridges and serve as a home for various species of ducks. The garden is famous for its medicinal herbs and plants including Ayurvedic herbs. The park is open from 6:30 am to 7 pm every day.

Our Lady of Piety Church was built around 1886 or 1889 in the Portuguese architectural style. The Tapovan Tourist Complex houses a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and lies about 18 km from Silvassa at Bindrabin. The complex also has cottages, a restaurant and an amusement park with fountains and a well-laid garden.

The Lion Safari Wildlife Park is part of the Dadra and Nagar Haveli Wildlife Sanctuary, spread over an area of 25 hectares and is also home to the Asiatic Lion. The best way to explore the park is to take a safari in a bus or van fitted with a mesh screen and spot the lions in their natural habitat. The park also shares the neighbourhood with the Satmalia Deer Park and is open from 9 am to 5 pm. On the way to Khanvel, Satmalia has a wildlife sanctuary with many species of antelope. Many other animals, including sambhar and chital deer, and blackbucks as well as a wide variety of birds, including the flame back woodpecker, peacocks, and thrushes can be spotted. The watchtower near the water hole provides an incredible panoramic view of the sanctuary and the Madhuban Dam.

The Vanganga Lake complex is situated amidst the Island Gardens and offers paddleboat rides as well as a peaceful setting with flowerbeds and lush green gardens around the lake. Unique Japanese style bridges and a modern state of the art Signature bridge connects the central island to the main garden. 20 km to the south of Silvassa, Khanvel is a popular tourist destination and makes for a perfect getaway for those who want a lazy holiday. Khanvel has a crystal blue river flowing by, a forest with rich biodiversity and ancient history.

The Tribal Museum displays the lifestyle and culture of the tribes of Dadra & Nagar Haveli. One can see ornaments, musical instruments, fishing tools, hunting gadgets, agricultural and other household articles used by the tribals of this territory including the Warli, Dodhiya, Kokna and Kathodia. The tribal way of life is displayed through life-size models, wedding dresses and photographs of eventful ceremonies.

This was all about the Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu and is something I am waiting to explore more, given that it is so close to Mumbai. I am planning a short trip there the next time we are in Mumbai.