Hajipur Hajipur is the largest city and headquarters of Vaishali district and is the 10th largest and 17th most populous city in the state as well as the second-fastest developing city, next to Patna. The city is known for cultivating bananas and is only 10 km from the state capital of Patna. The Mahatma Gandhi Setu connects Hajipur to Patna and is separated by the Ganges river. Another bridge known as the Digha Pool connects the river Gandak and Ganga and narrows the distance between Hajipur and Patna. There are plans to expand Patna to Greater Patna, by absorbing Hajipur and other surrounding towns into it.
In ancient times, Hajipur was known as Ukkacala and was the first village to come after crossing the River Ganges at Patna. The village of Hajipur gained significance, as it was the venue of one of the discourses given by Gautam Buddha who preached the Cula Gopalaka Sutta, a middle-length discourse here. The place is also of interest because a portion of Ananda’s ashes, the closest disciple of Buddha who acted as the Buddha’s attendant for twenty years and outlived him by several decades were enshrined in the town. During the British colonial rule, Hajipur was a small town in the Muzaffarpur district situated on the confluence of the Ganges and Gandak. Hajipur figures conspicuously in the history of struggles between Emperor Akbar and the rebellious Afghan Karrani rulers of Bengal. The town finds its origin from the Mahabharata period and is the place where democracy found its origin around 600 BC. The ancient Licchavi republic was established here and is the place where Mahavir took birth and Gautam Buddha delivered his last sermon and announced his Parinirvana.
The Kaun Haara Ghat is one of the main attractions of Hajipur, not so much for its current existence as much as for the ancient legend associated with it. The very famous fight between the Gaja elephant and the Graah crocodile is said to have been fought here, and the place got its name from everyone asking Kaun haara? or who lost the fight? This is one of the most significant events of Hindu mythology, related to the stories of Lord Vishnu. A pictographic depiction of this fight can be seen all over the city of Hajipur, like an emblem of the place. The Sweet Water Well or Mitha Kuwan is famous for its water quality. Because Hajipur situated on the confluence of the Ganges and Gandak, the water of the well is very sweet. From ancient times till today, many many people in Hajipur use the water from this Mitha Kuwan for drinking purposes and also use it for cooking.
Located right in the heart of Hajipur at Gandhi Ashram, the Deep Narayan Singh Museum Is named after the late Chief Minister of Bihar and was established in 1979. Among the collections here are weaponry, coins and artefacts from the Mauryan and Gupta era, both of which prospered around the then seat of power Pataliputra, now Patna. It also has blow-ups of local freedom fighters. It provides an important insight into Bihar’s past and present.
The Ramchaura Mandir is a Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Rama located at Rambhadra near Helabazar. Folklore says that the temple has stood here since the days of the Ramayana and Lord Rama himself blessed the place with his presence on his way to Janakpur, where his footprints are worshipped by his devotees. Ram Navami is a huge and important festival here and it is celebrated with lots of enthusiasm with a small fair also organised on the eve of the festival. Archaeological objects excavated from Ramchaura are kept at the Patna Museum.
The Bateshwar Nath Temple is the oldest in Bihar as it goes back to the Mughal era, or so says the myth. The local legend goes that the temple is a self-made and established one and it appeared magically under a thousand-year-old Banyan tree. Because of such an interesting story about its past, the local people have a lot of respect for this temple. It is, however, a quiet and spiritual place in the middle of the green stretches of pastures and will appeal to those who love to travel in the more uncommon, quaint sites. The temple has a tradition of celebrating the Vasant Panchami festival every year in February/March and a small fair is organised on the eve of Maha Shivratri for a month.
Hajipur is one of the 84 Baithaks in India. The Krishna Baithakji temple, like all other ones, is dedicated to Shri Mahaprabhuji, also known as Vallabhacharya, the founder of the Pushtimarg sect of Vaishnavism, who toured the country barefoot thrice to spread his knowledge, conduct Krishna-related seminars and discuss his path with other religious leaders. The Baithaks are the shrines which the followers of this sect visit and pay their respect. It is a spiritual and peaceful establishment to visit and take in the essence of the faith.
Located in the west of Hajipur, the Nepali Mandir is a pagoda-style temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. Unlike the other Shaivite temples which are made of stones, this one is made of finely carved wood and resembles the architectural style of the Himalayan shrines. Hence it was given the name Nepali. It is a wonderful piece of structure to look at, and the confluence of traditional Hindu style and the touch of the northern mountains is worth experiencing.
The Pataleshwar Mandir, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is said to have been in existence since ancient times and Lord Shiva is believed to be enshrined here in the form of Lingam according to local folklore.
The Jami Masjid is one of the state’s oldest mosques constructed in 1587 during the Mugal rule by Makhsus Shah the brother of Said Khan, who was the governor of Bihar Sharif according to the Akbarnamah. This remarkable monument is a spectacular example of the Indo-Persian architectural style. Measuring 84.5 feet in height and 33.5 feet in width, the mosque is crowned with three domes, the central dome being larger than the others. According to some historians, Haji Iliyas was the founder of the mosque.
Nalanda An ancient Mahavihara and a revered Buddhist monastery which also served as a renowned centre of learning, in the ancient kingdom of Magadha, Nalanda was a university town which rose to legendary status due to its contribution to the emergence of India as a great power around the fourth century. Located about 95 km southeast of Patna near the city of Bihar Sharif, and was one of the greatest centres of learning in the world from the 5th to the 11th centuries and today, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nalanda was initially a prosperous village by a major trade route that ran through the nearby city of Rajagriha, which is modern Rajgir which was the capital of Magadha. It is said that the Jain Tirthankara, Mahavira, spent 14 rainy seasons at Nalanda. Gautama Buddha too is said to have delivered lectures in a nearby mango grove named Pavarika and one of his two chief disciples, Shariputra, was born in the area and later attained nirvana there. This traditional association with Mahavira and Buddha tenuously dates the existence of the village to at least the 5th or 6th century BC.
At its peak, the school attracted scholars and students from near and far, with some travelling from Tibet, China, Korea, and Central Asia. The highly formalised methods of Buddhist studies helped the establishment of large teaching institutions such as Taxila, Nalanda, and Vikramashila, which are often characterised as India’s early universities. Archaeological evidence also notes contact with the Shailendra dynasty of Indonesia, one of whose kings built a monastery in the complex. Nalanda flourished under the patronage of the Gupta Empire in the 5th and 6th centuries, and later under Harsha, the emperor of Kannauj. The liberal cultural traditions inherited from the Gupta age resulted in a period of growth and prosperity until the 9th century. The subsequent centuries were a time of gradual decline, a period during which the tantric developments of Buddhism became most pronounced in eastern India under the Pala Empire. Much of the current knowledge of Nalanda comes from the writings of pilgrim monks from Asia, such as Xuanzang and Yijing, who travelled to the Mahavihara in the 7th century. All students at Nalanda studied Mahayana, as well as the texts of the eighteen Hinayana sects of Buddhism. Their curriculum also included other subjects, such as the Vedas, logic, Sanskrit grammar, medicine, and Samkhya.
Nalanda was destroyed thrice but rebuilt only twice. It was ransacked and destroyed by an army of the Mamluk Dynasty of the Delhi Sultanate under Bakhtiyar Khalji in 1200. While it is said the Mahavihara continued to function in a makeshift fashion after this attack, it was eventually abandoned altogether and forgotten until the 19th century, when the site was surveyed and preliminary excavations were conducted by the Archaeological Survey of India. Systematic excavations commenced in 1915, which unearthed eleven monasteries and six brick temples neatly arranged on grounds 12 hectares or 30 acres in area. A trove of sculptures, coins, seals, and inscriptions have also been discovered in the ruins, many of which are on display in the Nalanda Archaeological Museum, located nearby. Today, Nalanda is a notable tourist destination and part of the Buddhist tourism circuit. On 25 November 2010, the Indian government, through an Act of Parliament, resurrected the ancient university through the Nalanda University Bill, and subsequently, a new Nalanda University was established which has been designated as an International University of National Importance.
Several theories exist about the etymology of the name, Nalanda. According to the Tang Dynasty Chinese pilgrim, Xuanzang, it comes from Na al, lllam da meaning no end in gifts or charity without intermission. Yijing, another Chinese traveller, however, derives it from Naga Nanda referring to the name of a snake in the local tank, nanda being the name of the snake and naga being a snake. Hiranand Sastri, an archaeologist who headed the excavation of the ruins, attributes the name to the abundance of nalas or lotus-stalks in the area and believes that Nalanda would then represent the giver of lotus-stalks.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nalanda University is considered as one of the oldest universities in the world and was known as Nalanda Mahavira, its origins dating back to the 3rd century. Mahavira is a Sanskrit term for a great Vihara or Buddhist monastery. Located about 85 km away from Patna, it finds references in the oldest epics of India as well as in the travels of Hiuen Tsang. The Gupta kings built various monasteries in old Kusan style of architecture. Emperor Ashoka and Emperor Harshavandhana were also patrons of this university who built few temples, viharas, and monasteries for the university. With reference found in the Tibetan and Chinese scriptures, the university was a centre of advanced Vedic learnings until it was ransacked by Bakhtiyar Khilji in the 12th century. Lord Buddha visited Nalanda several times during his lifetime, but the university became popular in the later years when Hieun Tsang stayed here in the 7th century AD and he left a detailed description of the education system and monastic life here. The site was recovered by Archeological Survey of India in 1915. It’s said that the library of the university had so many books and manuscripts that it kept on burning for six months after the entire structure went up in flames.
The total area of excavation of the Nalanda University ruins archaeological complex is about 14 hectares. The edifices are of red bricks and the gardens are extremely beautiful. The buildings are divided by a central walkway. The monasteries are situated on the east of the walkway and the temples are situated in the west. Six temples built of brick and eleven monasteries orderly laid out were revealed during the excavations. Evidence of structures built over older ones is in plenty and many of these bore signs of fire damage. The university site is open from 9 am to 5 pm and visitors will need between one to two hours to tour the place. Entry fees for Indians, SAARC and BIMSTEC passport holders is INR 15 while others pay INR 200. Children below the age of 15 enter free.
Housing the ancient relics of Nalanda University, the Nalanda Archaeological Museum offers a glance into the culture of ancient Nalanda. Pala Art is displayed through the assorted artefacts maintained here. The statues here are mainly engraved on basalt stone, but others made out of stucco, bronze, stone and terracotta are also present. The Archaeological Survey of India maintains the museum which opened in 1917 and exhibits the antiquities that have been unearthed at Nalanda as well as from nearby Rajgir. Out of 13,463 items recovered, only 349 are on display in four galleries.
Another museum adjoining the excavated site is the privately run Nalanda Multimedia Museum which showcases the history of Nalanda through 3-D animation and other multimedia presentations.
The Hiuen Tsang Memorial Hall was built as a dedication to the Chinese scholar Hiuen Tsang and is a distinct reminder of the architectural style of the Nalanda University. Visitors will find multiple writings of Tsang preserved here. The Xuanzang Memorial Hall is an Indo-Chinese undertaking to honour the famed Buddhist monk and traveller. A relic, comprising a skull bone of the Chinese monk, is on display in the memorial hall.
Present amongst the ruins of the Nalanda University, the Great Stupa was built in the 3rd century by Emperor Ashoka in the honour of Sariputra. After the seven accretions to it, this structure is shaped like a pyramid and is flanked by flights of steps and splendid sculptures as well.
The Nav Nalanda Mahavihara was established by the Bihar government in 1951 to showcase the state’s ancient tradition to the modern world. It was built as a modern centre of Buddhism and today helps in educating people about the ancient Pali script and the Buddhist religion and is a great starting place for those interested in about the roots and history of the religion.
The Surya Mandir is a temple dedicated to the Sun God and is located near Nalanda University. Various Buddhist, as well as Hindu deities, are enshrined in this temple with the most attractive one being the five feet high idol of Goddess Parvati. Chatth Puja is held here twice a year in the Hindu months of Vaishakha and Kartika and is celebrated with great fervour.
Kundalpur, located just outside Nalanda, is believed to be the birthplace of Lord Mahavira, the 24th and last of the Jain Tirthankaras. It is also the place of birth of Gautam Swamiji who was the first disciple of Lord Mahavira. A grand temple with beautiful spires has been built here to mark the birthplace with a four and a half feet tall idol of Bhagwan Mahavira Padmasana. Within the complex, there is a serene Trikal Chaubeesi Jinmandir where there are 72 idols of Tirthankaras, representing 24 each of the past, present and the future age.
A holy city for the adherents of the Jain faith, Pawapuri is located about 12 km east of Nalanda. A long time ago, Pawapuri was the twin capital of Mall Mahajanpad. Mahajanpad later became a part of the kingdom of Magadha and Ajatshatru was a devotee of Lord Mahavira. During the rule of Ajatshatru, the king of Pawapuri was known as Hastipal. When in Pawapuri, Mahavira stayed in the Rajikshala of the king. It is considered as a sacred place because Lord Mahavira was buried here in 500 BC. Pawapuri has also been given the name Apapuri which means sinless town because Lord Mahavira was cremated here. After the cremation, there was a rush while collecting the ashes which led to the removal of a layer of the soil thereby resulting in the formation of a pond. This pond was later converted into a lotus pond, and a marble temple named Jalmandir was built in the centre of the pond. Some festivals celebrated here include the Rajgir Dance Festival and Chhath Puja. Other places of interest in Pawapuri include the Gaon Mandir which is the temple of the village and the place where Lord Mahavira took his last breath and the Samosaran temple which is the place where Lord Mahavira used to deliver sermons to his disciples, Gunayaji village which is located 20 km away from Pawapuri and is the place where the Shri Gunayaji Teerth Temple is situated.
In the next part, we shall see what the ancient city of Rajgir, the gateway of Vihar that is Sasaram and Kaimur have to offer its visitors
We start with the state’s capital Patna. The capital and largest city of the state, Patna is the 19th largest city in India, covering 250 sq km and with a population of over 2.5 million people, its urban agglomeration is the 18th largest in the country. One of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, Patna was founded in 490 BC by the Kings of Magadha. Ancient Patna, known as Patliputra or Pataliputra, was the capital of the Magadh Empire through the Haryanka, Nanda, Mauryan, Shunga, Gupta and Pala dynasties. Pataliputra was a seat of learning and fine arts and was home to many astronomers and scholars including Aryabhata, Vātsyāyana and Chanakya. During the Maurya period, around 300 BC, its population was about 400,000. Patna served as the seat of power, political and cultural centre of the Indian subcontinent during the Maurya and Gupta empires, but with the fall of the Gupta empire, Patna lost its glory which was revived again in the 17th century by the British as a centre of international trade. Following the partition of Bengal presidency in 1912, Patna became the capital of the Bihar and Orissa provinces and remained the capital even after the state of Jharkhand was carved out of Bihar. Patna is a pilgrimage for Sikh devotees as it is reckoned to be the birthplace of last Sikh Guru, Guru Gobind Singh.
The modern city of Patna is mainly situated on the southern bank of the river Ganges and also straddles the rivers Sone, Gandak and Punpun. As of 2015, Patna’s was the 21st fastest growing city in the world and 5th fastest growing city in India according to a study by the City Mayors Foundation. Etymologically, Patna derives its name from the word Pattan, which means port in Sanskrit. It may be indicative of the location of this place on the confluence of four rivers, which functioned as a port. It is also believed that the city derived its name from Patan Devi, the presiding deity of the city, and her temple is one of the shakti peethas. Many also believe Patna derived its name from Patli, a variety of tree that was found in abundance in the historic city and is also seen on the state tourism’s logo. Patna is mentioned in the Chinese traveller Fa Hien’s records as Pa-lin-fou. Patna has been known by various names through more than 2,000 years of existence, from Pataligrama, Pataliputra, Kusumapura, Kusumdhwaja Pushpapuram, Padmavathi, Azimabad to the present-day Patna. Legend ascribes the origin of Patna to the mythological King Putraka who created Patna by magic for his queen Patali, literally the trumpet flower, which gives it its ancient name of Pataligrama. It is said that in honour of the queen’s first-born, the city was named Pataliputra where gram is Sanskrit for a village and Putra means son. Legend also says that the Emerald Buddha was created in Patna when it was Pataliputra by Nagasena in 43 BC.
Also known as Maa Patneshwari, the Patan Devi Mandir is one of the most sacred and the oldest temple in Patna and is believed from where Patna derived its name. The temple is one of the 51 shakti peethas according to the Hindu mythology and so is highly revered by Hindus. It is believed that the right thigh of Devi Sati fell here when the whole body was cut into 51 pieces by Vishnu’s Sudarshan Chakra.
The Mahavir Mandir is the second largest religious shrine in North India and is one of the leading temples dedicated to the worship of Lord Hanuman. Thousands of devotees from different parts of the country flock here daily to offer prayers to and seek blessings. It is believed that Sankat Mochan Hanuman listens to the prayers of his faithful devotees hence if worshipped with a pure heart no wishes would be left unfulfilled and hence it is also known as Manokamna Temple or the wish-fulfilling temple. The temple is located outside the Patna railway station and is a complex of buildings. The temple attracts huge crowds on festivals like Ramnavami and the temple’s offerings or neivedyam is prepared by experts from the famous Tirupati temple. The temple is open from 5:30 am and 10:30 pm.
The Harmandir Takht Shri Patna Sahib, popularly known as Patna Sahib Gurudwara is one of the holiest pilgrimages for the Sikh community. Located on the banks of holy Ganga, this Gurudwara was built commemorating the tenth Guru of Sikhs, Shri Guru Gobind Singh. Regarded as the epicentre of Sikhism in eastern India, this gurudwara is the second acknowledged and accepted Takht of the five Takhts or seats of the authority of Sikhism. The morning prayer or ardaas happens daily at 5:45 am and the evening prayers at 6 pm. The langar or free food service is offered to all the visitors and they are welcome to volunteer there since it is believed to be an offering to God. The Prakash Parv or the birth anniversary of Guru Gobind Singhji is celebrated in December every year which is one of the major attractions of this place. The Gurudwara is open daily from 5 am to 9 pm.
One of the oldest mosques in the city, the Begu Hajjam Mosque originally dates back to the 16th century and instead of being named after its creator, Muazzam Nazir Khan, it is named after its renovator Begu Hajjam. The architecture reflects the Gaur style, as it was built under the rule of Alauddin Shah, the ruler of Gaur. There is spirituality within the walls of the mosque and beautiful carvings on them.
The river Ganga flows through Patna and one cannot leave the city without experiencing a boat ride near Gandhi Ghat. A boat ride in the Ganges between October and March could be mesmerising with its serene and captivating surroundings. The Bihar State Tourism Development Corporation has also made available motorboats on weekends and recreation arrangements. The riverbank serves as an ideal place for picnics with friends and family, but it is to be noted that the riverside activities are not that developed as compared to Varanasi and Haridwar.
Gandhi Ghat is one of the most popular ghats on the banks of the river Ganges in the city, the name of the ghat coming from when the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi were immersed here. The highlight of the ghat is the mesmerising Ganga Aarti that is attended by thousands of devotees and tourists. The aarti is performed at dusk, with 51 lamps by priests dressed in saffron robes. The aarti was started in 2011 and was inspired by the ones that are performed in Varanasi and Haridwar. In addition to the boating which can be enjoyed at the ghat, it is also famous for the river cruise ship with a restaurant onboard which draws tourists. The kite festival is also a big event and is celebrated with a lot of pomp and show on the occasion of Makar Sankranti, every year.
The Agam Kuan is an archaeological site related to numerous myths and legends over the years with the most popular association with the Mauryan king Ashoka. The well is mentioned as the hell on earth in many accounts, which was probably once a part of Ashoka’s infamous Hell chambers used for torture before embracing Buddhism. People now treat the well with veneration and throw in flowers and coins to get their prayers and wishes heard.
The Shaheed Smarak or Martyr’s Memorial is a bronze statue commemorating the seven brave young men who sacrificed their lives in a protest trying to unfurl the Indian national flag during the Quit India Movement of 1942 outside a British administrative building which is now the Secretariat of Patna. The monument is a remarkable reminder of the cost of freedom, even if their names are not widely known.
The Bihar Museum provides insights into the history of Bihar and is a recent addition. One of the main reasons for establishing the museum was to create more space to house and exhibit artefacts since the century-old Patna museum was running out of space. Since there was little scope to relocate installed artefacts, the decision of keeping the focus on Human History was taken. Therefore, the Bihar Museum is where visitors can find information about the human history of Bihar to a large extent. The displays include ancient artefacts of artistic heritage, artworks belonging to various tribes and insights into the past and present of Bihar. The Bihar Museum is spread over an area of 5.6 hectares with a total built-up area of 24,000 sq m. The architecture has an interesting dispersed-scheme of buildings that include galleries, educational and administrative areas and a lobby. The museum is open from 10:30 am to 5 pm with a half-hour break between 1 and 1:30 pm for lunch. Entry fees are INR 50 for children, INR 100 for adults and INR 500 for foreigners.
The Patna Museum, also locally known as the Jadu Ghar houses more than 50,000 rare art objects, including Indian artefacts from the ancient, middle ages and the British colonial era. Built and opened in 1917, the museum is constructed in the style of the Mughal and Rajput architectures with different galleries that contain masterpieces from the past. The Holy Relic Casket, with the sacred ashes of Lord Buddha and the beautiful statue, Yakshani, are the most highlighted attractions of the place. Archaeological objects such as coins, art objects, paintings, instruments, textiles, thankas, bronze sculptures and terracotta images by various Hindu and Buddhist artists are on display in the museum. Another of the museum’s prized possessions is a rare collection of British-period paintings depicting day-to-day life of the Indians of the era, along with a fine collection related to the first President of India, Dr Rajendra Prasad, and a first World War cannon. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days except Mondays when it is closed. Entry fees are INR 15 for Indians and INR 250 for foreigners.
The Indira Gandhi Planetarium, also known as the Patna Planetarium is one of the oldest and largest planetariums of Asia. It is also popularly known as Taramandal, meaning a circle of stars, and is one of the largest and most well-maintained planetariums in the country. A wide range of film shows on subjects related to astronomy is showcased here. Apart from that, exhibitions are also held on various related topics for visitors. There is a huge dome-shaped screen here to showcase movies where visitors need to look upon the roof to enjoy the amazing feeling of watching a sky full of fascinating stars, moons and other celestial bodies. The planetarium is open from 10 am to 5 pm with show timings at 12:30 pm, 2 pm, 3:30 pm and 5 pm and is closed on Mondays. Entry fees are INR 50 with tickets mandatory for children over 3 years of age.
The Gandhi Sangrahalaya is among eleven such public museums across India. The museum displays a visual biography of Mahatma Gandhi’s life with the help of pictures of important milestones from childhood to death, documents, quotes, models and other memorabilia. There are books and audio-visual materials about his life, principles and the struggle for freedom.
Established in 1891, the Khuda Bakhsh Oriental Library has a very wide collection of Mughal and Islamic scriptures including a 25 mm wide version of the Quran. It also has Nadir Shah’s sword which he raised at the Sunehri Mosque in Delhi, to order the massacre of the residents of the city. This library contains close to 250,000 books and is located on the Ashok Raj Path.
Located near Agamkuan, Jalan Museum, also popularly known as Quila House is a private museum and visitors intending to visit will need to call them and take permission before visiting. The museum has a great collection from the Mughal period and also houses some unique artefacts like the wooden bed of Napoleon III. This museum was built by Diwan Bahadur R.K. Jain in 1919 and has English and Dutch influences on its architecture and has more than 10,000 artefacts, mostly belonging to the modern period.
Golghar is a simple yet charming amalgam of history and natural beauty, built-in 1786 by Captain John Garstin as a storehouse. Golghar was never filled to its maximum capacity as it is believed that due to an engineering fault the doors open inwards only, and if the granary were to be filled all the way, the doors would not open. In addition to being a huge granary, the top of Golghar presents a wonderful panoramic view of the city and the Ganges and is a spot which locals visit to get a respite from the din of the city. Rising from the midst of a lush green garden, the stupa-shaped structure of Golghar is encircled by a flight of 145 stairs that take you to the top, from where you can see a bird’s eye view of the entire city. Visitors can also arrange for a picnic in the garden where the Golghar lies and to increase the visitor influx to Golghar, a light and sound show has been introduced as well. Golghar is open from 9:30 am to 6 pm and has no entry fees to visit.
The Mahatma Gandhi Setu is the second-longest river bridge in India, the first one being the Bhupen Hazarika Setu or the Dhola-Sadiya Bridge in Assam. The Mahatma Gandhi Setu extends over the Ganges for 5.7 km. Named after the father of the nation, the bridge connects the capital city of Patna in the south to Hajipur in the north. The bridge has four lanes of roadways and pedestrian pathways on each side and is an indispensable part of daily vehicular transport. Earlier, there used to be toll gates, but the government has removed them. The bridge provides some spectacular views of the Ganga river flowing underneath. Today, National Highway 19 operates through it, with the government scheduled for the building of two pontoon or floating bridges parallel to it to curb traffic, which has drastically increased over the years. Before this bridge, people from this region travelled between Patna and Hajipur by ferry or boat. Though there is no entry fee to access the bridge, toll fees depend on the type of vehicle and taxes levied by the government.
The ancient city of Patliputra, Kumhrar has undergone multiple excavation operations to unearth ruins like the Assembly Hall, Anand Bihar, Arogya Vihar and the Durakhi Devi Temple. Located just 5 km from Patna railway station with ruins dating back to 600 BC, the ancient city has many ruins marking the capital of the Ajatshatru, Chandragupta and Ashoka empires between the 600 BC and 600 AD.
Also known as Maner Sharif, the Chhoti Dargah is a 3-storied mausoleum located in Maner, 30 km west of Patna and is an architectural marvel. The Muslim saint Makhdum Shah was buried here in 1616 and is now a popular dargah for devotees in Patna and its surrounding areas. There is also a large tank just in front of the mausoleum. A mosque was also built later in this compound by Ibrahim Khan in 1619.
Located on Frazer Road near Patna Junction, the Buddha Smriti Udyan is a large urban park which was constructed by the Patna Government to commemorate the 2554th anniversary of Lord Buddha and was inaugurated in 2010 by the 14th Dalai Lama himself. The highlight of the park is the magnanimous Patliputra Karuna Stupa situated in the centre of the park. Sprawling over 22 acres, two special saplings were planted here at the time of its opening, one brought from Bodh Gaya and the other from Mahameghavana Anuradhapura in Sri Lanka. The park complex also has a museum which houses the pot containing Lord Buddha’s ashes and also showcases Buddhist relics from Japan, Myanmar and Sri Lanka. Very often, there are musical shows and events organised inside the park and the park is often crowded during the morning and evening hours as people flock here for walks and meditation exercises. The laser show in the park is a local favourite which show retells the story of Bihar from the time of Ramayana up until post Independence. The Meditation Centre in the park was conceived and ideated on the lines of the monasteries and Mahaviharas of Nalanda and has around 60 cells where one can go and meditate. Each of these rooms provides a view of the Stupa which has relics of the Sakyamuni Buddha and there is also a library with books on Buddhism and an audiovisual hall. The Smriti Bagh, also known as the Park of Memories, is a wide-open space with sculptures from different countries installed to represent the expansion of Buddhism across different countries in the world. The highlight of the park is the Patliputra Karuna Stupa which enshrines the relics of the Sakyamuni Buddha encased in glass. The building is three storeys tall and is open to the public. The park is open from 9 am to 5 pm daily. Entry fees to the park are INR 20, to the Karuna Stupa, INR 50, the meditation centre, INR 500 and the museum is INR 40.
The Sanjay Gandhi Botanical Garden, or as it is locally known, the Sanjay Gandhi Jaivik Udyan was established in 1969 and has been a source of nature and greenery to the city since then. Also known as the Patna Zoo, the park has many varieties of flora and fauna, in addition to a boating facility, elephant ride, toy train for kids etc. the garden is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 30 for adults and INR 10 for children.
The Gandhi Maidan Park is a famous historical venue spanning an area of about 60 acres. This park was frequented by several influential leaders of the Indian Independence Movement for launching political campaigns, freedom rallies, parades and holding religious ceremonies. Formerly known as Patna Lawns, the grounds house the tallest statue of Mahatma Gandhi in the world, a bronze figurine that rises to over 70 feet. It is a prominent landmark and is located near Ashok Rajpath, approximately 2-3 km from the city centre. During its heyday, distinguished guests like Mahatma Gandhi, Maulana Azad, Jawaharlal Nehru, Sardar Patel, Rajendra Prasad, Indira Gandhi and many more made their powerful voices heard in these lawns. Even today, it acts as a hub for political rallies and other major events. The 72-feet tall bronze statue of Mahatma Gandhi lies in the south-western corner of the ground and also has one of the eleven Gandhi Sangrahalayas or Gandhi Museums in the north-western corner.
Officially known as Shaheed Veer Kunwar Singh Azadi Park, Hardinge Park is one of the oldest in the country. An urban the park built in 1916, the park was dedicated to the British Viceroy Charles Hardinge.
In the next part, we will check out Hajipur and the ancient university town of Nalanda.
A state in the eastern part of India, Bihar is the third-largest state by population and the twelfth-largest by territory. It is bordered by Uttar Pradesh to its west, Nepal to the north, the northern part of West Bengal to the east, and Jharkhand to the south. The Bihar plain is split by the river Ganges, which flows from west to east and three main cultural regions converge in the state: Magadh, Mithila, and Bhojpur and is also the world’s third-most populous sub-national entity. On 15 November 2000, southern Bihar was ceded to form the new state of Jharkhand. The state is mostly rural with only 11.3% of the population living in urban areas, the lowest in India after Himachal Pradesh. Bihar is also a very young state with almost 58% of Biharis below the age of 25, giving it the highest proportion of young people of any Indian state.
The name Bihar has been derived from the Sanskrit and Pali word vihara, meaning Abode. The region roughly encompassing the present state had many Buddhist viharas, which were the abodes of Buddhist monks in the ancient and medieval periods.
In ancient and classical India, the area that is now Bihar was considered a centre of power, learning, and culture. From Magadha arose India’s first empire, the Maurya empire, as well as one of the world’s most widely adhered-to religions, Buddhism. The Magadha empires, notably under the Maurya and Gupta dynasties, unified large parts of South Asia under a central rule. Another region of Bihar is Mithila which was an early centre of learning and the centre of the Videha kingdom.
The history of Bihar is one of the most varied in India. Each of Bihar’s three distinct regions of Magadh, Mithila and Bhojpur have their distinct history and culture. Chirand, on the northern bank of the Ganga River, in the Saran district, has an archaeological record from the Neolithic age, about 2500–1345 BC. Regions such as Magadha, Mithila and Anga are mentioned in religious texts and epics of ancient India with Mithila believed to be the centre of Indian power in the Later Vedic period which occurs between 1100 to 500 BCE. Mithila first gained prominence after the establishment of the Videha kingdom. The Kings of the Videha Kingdom were called the Janakas. A daughter of one of the Janaks of Mithila, Sita, is mentioned as the consort of Lord Rama in the Hindu epic Ramayana, written by Valmiki. The Videha Kingdom later became incorporated into the Vajji confederacy which had its capital in the city of Vaishali, also in Mithila. Magadha, another region of Bihar was the centre of Indian power, learning and culture for about a thousand years. Based on the information found in texts about Jainism and Buddhism, Vajji was established as a republic by the 6th century BC, before the birth of Gautama Buddha in 563 BC, making it the first known republic in India. The Haryanka dynasty, founded in 684 BC, ruled Magadha from the city of Rajgriha also known as Rajgir today. The two well-known kings from this dynasty were Bimbisara and his son Ajatashatru, who imprisoned his father to ascend the throne and who founded the city of Pataliputra which later became the capital of Magadha. The Haryanka dynasty was followed by the Shishunaga dynasty and then the Nanda Dynasty who ruled a vast tract stretching from Bengal to Punjab. The Nanda dynasty was replaced by the Maurya Empire, India’s first empire. Modern Bihar was also the birthplace of Buddhism and Jainism. The Mauryan Empire, which originated from Magadha in 325 BC, was founded by Chandragupta Maurya, who was born in Magadh and had its capital at Pataliputra which is modern Patna. Pataliputra, adjacent to modern-day Patna, was an important political, military and economic centre of Indian civilisation during the ancient and classical periods of Indian history. Many ancient Indian texts, aside from religious epics, were written in ancient Bihar with the play Abhijñānaśākuntala the most prominent. Emperor Ashoka, born in Pataliputra, is often considered to be among the most accomplished rulers in world history. The Gupta Empire, which originated in Magadha in 240 AD, is referred to as the Golden Age of India in science, mathematics, astronomy, commerce, religion, and Indian philosophy. Bihar and Bengal were invaded by Rajendra Chola I of the Chola dynasty in the 11th century.
Buddhism in Magadha went into decline due to the invasion of Muhammad bin Bakhtiyar Khalji, during which many of the viharas were destroyed along with the universities of Nalanda and Vikramashila. Some historians believe that thousands of Buddhist monks were massacred during the 12th century. After the fall of the Pala Empire, the Chero dynasty ruled some parts of Bihar from the 12th century until the Mughal rule in the 16th century. In 1540, Sher Shah Suri took northern India from the Mughals and declared Delhi his capital. From the 11th century to the 20th century, Mithila was ruled by various indigenous dynasties. The first of these was the Karnatas, followed by the Oiniwar dynasty and Raj Darbhanga and during this period the capital of Mithila was shifted to Darbhanga. The tenth and the last guru of Sikhism, Guru Gobind Singh, was born in Patna in 1666. With political instability in the Mughal Empire following Aurangzeb’s death in 1707, Murshid Quli Khan declared Bengal’s independence and named himself Nawab of Bengal.
After the Battle of Buxar in 1764, the British East India Company obtained the rights to administer and collect tax revenue for Bihar, Bengal and Odisha and the rich resources of the land attracted the Dutch and the British. Bihar remained a part of the Bengal Presidency of British India until 1912 when Bihar and Orissa were carved out as separate provinces. In the northern and central regions of Bihar, the Kisan Sabha or the peasant movement was an important consequence of the independence movement which began in 1929.
After the Pala period, Bihar played a very small role in Indian history until the emergence of the Suri dynasty during the Medieval period in the 1540s. After the fall of the Suri dynasty in 1556, Bihar again became a marginal player in India and was the staging post for the British colonial Bengal Presidency from the 1750s and up to the war of 1857–58. Since the late 1970s, Bihar has lagged far behind other Indian states in terms of social and economic development.
Bihar has the fastest-growing state economy in terms of GSDP, and the state’s economy was projected to grow at a compound annual growth rate or CAGR of 13.4% during the 12th Five-Year Plan from 2012 to 2017. Bihar is the fourth-largest producer of vegetables and the eighth-largest producer of fruits with about 80% of the state’s population employed in agriculture.
The culture and heritage of Bihar can be observed from the large number of ancient monuments spread throughout the state which is visited by many tourists from around the world. In the past, tourism in the region was purely based on educational tourism, as Bihar was home of some prominent ancient universities like Nalanda and Vikramashila. This can easily be seen that one of my most popular posts in recent times was about the Chhath Pooja of Bihar!
In the next part we shall see what the capital city of Patna has to offer visitors.
After Kurnool, Mantralayam, Gandikota, Tadipatri, Anantapur and Puttaparthi, in this last part about Andhra Pradesh, we will visit some interesting places, including the world famous Tirupati temple.
Lepakshi A small quaint village, Lepakshi is located at a distance of 120 km from Bangalore. Founded in 1535 AD by Maharaja Aliya Rama Raya of the Vijayanagara empire, Lepakshi is a trove of several fascinating archaeological sites, beautiful ancient temples and rich culture. Each structure narrating a story of its own, this enchanting village also derives its name from the Sanskrit language meaning rise o bird and has folklore attached to it. Locals believe that according to the legend of Ramayana, Jatayu fell in Lepakshi after getting injured by Ravana. The village is most famous as being home to the Lepakshi Temple, known for the stunning Vijaynagar style of architecture and hanging pillars. A magnificent example of timeless art and architecture, the temples of Lepakshi celebrate the might of Lord Shiva, Vishnu and Veerabhadra. Apart from richly carved temples with inscriptions in Kannada and hanging pillar, the most striking feature of Lepakshi is the largest monolithic idol of Nandi Bull in the entire subcontinent made of granite. Lepakshi is a treasure trove of a fascinating range of art forms and traditional crafts. Visitors should make sure to stop and should shop for the handicraft items which Lepakshi is famous for, including things like banjara embroidery, brassware, cotton and jute durries, kalamkari paintings, Kondapalli toys, cherial scroll paintings and Bidricraft.
The Veerabhadra temple is dedicated to Lord Veerbhadra and built back in the 16th century. Also known as the Lepakshi temple, it is famous for its architecture characterised by hanging pillars and cave chambers. Another thing that makes the temple unique and a place to must visit is a footprint that is believed to be of Goddess Sita. As soon one steps inside the temple, they get glimpses of the history of Vijayanagara kingdom by way of pictorial representations. From the figures of musicians and saints to that of Parvati and Lord Shiva, the Lepakshi Temple has everything. Apart from the architectural importance, the temple according to Skanda Purana, is a divyakshetra, in other words, an important pilgrimage destination of Lord Shiva. The highlight of the temple is the Statue of Nandi Bull, made from a single granite stone. The temple is open daily between 5 am and 9 pm.
Located near the Veerbhadra Temple is another striking feature of the village, the idol of the Nandi Bull and paintings. This monolithic sculpture of Nandi crafted out of granite stone measures 4.5m in height and 8.23 m in length and is believed to be the largest statue in India. Other than this, another brilliant craftsmanship in form of sculptures and mural paintings can be seen on the walls of Natya and Kalyana Mandapams which are also popularly referred to as dance and wedding halls. In fact these incredible carvings are regarded as the finest specimen of Vijayanagara style of architecture.
Horsley Hills Located near the southwestern border between Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka, Horsley Hills is a hill station that is often called the Ooty of Andhra. Located at a height of 4312 metres and is well-known for its breathtaking landscapes, Horsley Hills is also called as Yenugulla Mallamma Konda. The picturesque landscape of Horsley Hills also doubles up as a destination for adventure sports and activities such as trampoline, shooting, bow and arrow, wall climbing, water walking, rappelling, swimming pool, fish spa and a mini zoo. In addition to its tranquil natural charms, it is also the land of Kalyani, the oldest known eucalyptus tree which is believed to be around 148 years and one is at it, visit the Thimmamma Marrimanu banyan tree which is said to be the world’s largest banyan tree spread covering an area of 8 acres. The highest point of the hills offers a mesmerising view of the surrounding foliage, and the sight is serene against the backdrop of the sapphire sky. Situated closeby is the Horsley Hills Environment Centre which is home to a number of animals such as deer and crocodiles. The Gurramkonda Fort and Governor’s house are other fascinating pieces of history should be a part of a weekend getaway. A part of the Eastern Ghats, the hills in the region are believed to be one of the oldest in terms of geological existence. How the hills came to be known as Horsley Hills is a story, it is said that there was once a horse that guarded the Gurramkonda fort situated closeby with such ferocity that as long as it remained there, no one dared to attack the fort. The title of the hills near the fort was hence dedicated to the selfless service of the horse, and the name Horsley Hills or Horsley Konda came to be. Some others believed that it is named after a British General with the same name who built a bungalow here.
Chittoor Steeped in religion, devotion and architecture, Chittoor is blessed with scenic beauty, cascading waterfalls and a beautiful hill station. Also known as the Mango City, Chittoor offers multiple varities of mangoes to please its visitors.
The Kanipakkam Vinayaka Temple was designed and constructed in the 11th century by Kulothunga Chola I, a revered Chola king. It was then rebuilt in 1336 by the Vijayanagara rulers. The name Kanipakam itself breaks into Kani meaning wetland and pakam meaning the flow of water into the wetland due to its presence next to river Bahuda. A Siva Temple was also created in the complex when Kulothunga Chola expanded the temple. It was to show his devotion to Lord Shiva as well as Lord Ganesha. What makes the Kanipakam temple unique is the fables and legends associated with it. It is reported that the idol of Vinayaka or Lord Ganesha grows every year so much so that the armour offered to the deity 50 years ago does not fit anymore. This historical temple with Ganesha as its primary deity is also known as Shrine of Water and is in Irala Mandal. The regal Kanipakam temple has immense religious significance and importance because of its miraculous idol. The water found in the complex is believed to be holy and can cure various deformities. Pilgrims visit this temple before going to Tirupati since it is a Vinayaka Temple. The Kanipakam temple is very well maintained by the authorities despite being a major crowd puller and is a rapidly developing complex. This unique sanctuary of Ganesha is in the middle of a river. Its significance lies in its purity and rich heritage.
The famous idol which led to the construction of the Kanipakam Vinayaka Temple has many stories linked to it. The most famous legend speaks of three farmers who were dumb, blind and deaf by birth. They needed water to irrigate their fields. They found a dried-up well and decided to dig it more. One of them started the work and was surprised to see his iron implement hitting a stone-like formation. As he continued to dig, he found that blood was oozing out of the stone. Soon the whole water had turned red because of the blood. He called out to the other two farmers to witness the event. As they had been present for such divine intervention, their deformities had disappeared. When the villagers found out about their miracle, they thronged to the well and decided to deepen it. However, they couldn’t as a self-manifested idol of Vinayakar emerged from the waters of that very well. Even today, the idol resides in the well, and its water branches are perineal and eternal. During the monsoon season, the well overflows and the water is provided to the devotees as Tirtham, holy water. The river of Bahuda, along with the banks of which the temple is built, also has a very popular story. Two brothers Sanka and Likhita were on a pilgrimage when the younger brother Likhita felt hungry. Ignoring his elder brother’s advice, he plucked a mango from the nearby mango grove and ate it. Sankha felt betrayed and reported his actions to the ruler, who in punishment deprived Likhita of both his arms. Later, when Likhita was taking a dip in the Bahuda river, a miracle occurred. Both his arms were restored! Hearing this, the ruler renamed the river as ‘Bahuda’ meaning human arm. The temple is open from 4 am to 9:30 pm with darshan timings from 6 am to 1 pm and then from 4 to 8 pm. The various poojas and sevas vary in fee from INR 116 to INR 7500 depending on the type of ritual devotees wish to perform at the temple
Hidden like a jewel behind the lush green forests of Andhra Pradesh lies a serene and tranquil place named Nagalapuram. Also known as Nagala Hills, it is famous for the various adventurous activities proffered in this scenic village. Nagalpuram is also known for housing the Nagalpuram Falls. A group of 3 waterfalls, it offers a great trekking opportunity and a stunning panoramic view. The trek to the waterfalls starts from the Arai Village where the journey starts from Nagala Dam. The dam welcomes the trekkers with a serene view and shows the way towards the waterfalls. The trek starts off on the simple plain ground until the water stream. The water stream is where the difficulty level elevates considerably and trekkers need to concentrate on every step there onwards. The nature of water as we know it is beautiful but also harsh at the same time. The intermittent positioning of the waterfalls and their pools are of great help to the trekkers and especially when the sun is right above the head. After sweating throughout the path, the sight of a cold water pool gives a joy uncomparable. Throwing the backpack down and getting rid of the shoes while running towards the pool and then taking off in the air to hit a perfect dive is not something that can be experienced often. Nagalapuram was built by King Krishna Deva Raya, the ruler of the Vijayanagar empire. He named the place Nagalapuram in the loving memory of his mother, Nagamamba.
Situated in Nagari Valley near Tirupati, the Kailasakona waterfalls are a beautiful perennial waterfalls with an interesting story behind them. Legend has it that Lord Kailasanatheshwara performed the marriage of Lord Venkateshwara Swami and Goddess Padmavati and later performed penance here. The water here at the Kailasakona waterfalls is crystal clear and is rich with minerals and is believed to have medicinal properties and healing effect. The foot of the waterfall can be reached and one can only gape at the awe-inspiring sight. To reach the waterfall, look out for the 10 km milestone on the way to Puttur and take a left deviation and drive for about 2 km.
The Kaigal fall is nestled amidst the Koundinya Wildlife sanctuary and derives its name from the village Kaigal, that surrounds it. Locally known as the Dumukurallu waterfalls which is a Telugu word used for a sound resembling the sound of falling stones from above, the Kaigal falls are perennial. The waterfall is subdivided into three cascading falls and water falls from a height of approximately 40 ft. The water forms several small pools at the bottom.
The Koundinya Wildlife Sanctuary is a wildlife sanctuary plus elephant reserve, housing exotic Asian elephants. There are around 78 elephants here, currently with an an abundance of flora and fauna. Acacia and bamboo are the two common plants that are found here. Several species of birds can be found here with the sanctuary being a popular attraction around April. There is a beautiful forest guest house which can be stayed in. The sanctuary is around 52 kms away from the Kaigal falls and will take about an hour or so to reach the sanctuary from Kaigal. High hills and deep valleys surround this immensely beautiful wildlife sanctuary. There is a shivalinga installed near the falls which the locals visit on special occasions like Shivaratri. The waterfall splits into three singular falls, one of which flows over this Shivalinga and it is a beautiful sight to view water cascading over the Shivling.
Also known as the Ubbalamudugu Falls, the Tada Falls is a gorgeous waterfall located near the near the Tricity and Oneness temple. Cascading from a towering height of around a 100 m, the crystal clear waterfall falling down the rocks is a visual delight and a sight to behold. The Siddulaiah Kona forest is nearby which is an ideal place for trekking, hiking and other foresty activities. Besides, Tada Falls is known for its an incredible landscape, lush greenery and ethereal hillocks. Also close by is the stunning Pulicat Lake and Shiva temple. Since the waterfalls are located in the woods, trekking is the most common way to reach the falls. Vehicles can be parked at the parking lot which is 10 km away from the falls before the trek. There is also a 3 km trek that goes along a clear stream for novice trekkers as well as a mid level trek up along some boulders to the base of Tada Falls. This trail is laden with dainty streams and lush green landscape sprawling all over, offering a pleasant experience and a gorgeous view.
Srikalahasthi Located 37 km from Tirupati, the holy city of Srikalahasti is famous for the Srikalahasti temple. It is one of the most important Shiva temples of south India built during the ancient Pallava dynasty. The place is an excellent example of south Indian architecture with highly adorned gopurams and extensively carved interiors that unfold the charms of Dravidian style pf architecture.
The Srikalahasti temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and was constructed in 1516 by King Krishnadevraya of the Vijayanagara empire. The elaborate structure of the temple complex is a breathtaking view right from the entrance. It has intricate carvings of numerous mythological illustrations that one can explore in the divine surroundings. This magnificent temple is often referred as the Kailasa and Kashi of the south and represents one of the five elements or the pancha bhootas, vayu or air. The temple is open from 6 am to 9 pm daily and the Rahu Kethu Sarpa Dosha Nivarana Puja which takes place in the outer courtyard costs between INR 300 – 500 while within the temple premises, it costs between INR 1500 to 2500
At the centre of the city, is a significant temple dedicated to Lord Murugan known as the Subrahmanya Swamy temple. A modest climb of 150 steps take you to the temple, surrounded by flattering views of the city. The temple gathers much festivity and glitter during a 8-day festival called the Aadi Krithika festival. During this time a procession is carried out where Lord Subrahmanya Swamy and his consorts Sri Valli and Devasena are taken out on various vahanams.
With hills and streams around, the Bharadwaja Tirtham is a religious site with some of the most beautiful surroundings. The statue of Vinayaka with water all around, makes the spot all the more enchanting. One of the popular attractions of the town, this is a must visit area.
The Bhakta Kannappa temple houses an idol of Bhakta Kannappa and is tied to the legend that a tribal youth called Bhakta Kannappa gave his eyes to the Lord Shiva idol in the temple. Respecting his devotion, offerings are made to Bhakta Kannappa before they are to Shiva Linga, in this temple.
Steps through a hillock, surrounded by wide views takes one to a an ancient dedicated to Goddess Durgambika. Like most areas in the area, this one too finds itself a scenic backdrop and much natural beauty around.
Literally translating into ‘the valley of the thousand lingas’, the Veyilingala Kona Waterfall is a local favourite and one that visitors also gravitate to. The water here is said to have properties that can cure skin diseases and it is believed that a dip into the pristine water here can grant one salvation and is one of the most beautiful spots in the town.
Tirupati Situated in the Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh, Tirupati is known for Lord Venkateshwara Temple, one of the most visited pilgrimage centres in the country. Tirumala is one of the seven hills in Tirupati, where the main temple is located. The temple is believed to be placed where Lord Venkateshwara took the form of an idol and is hence home to the diety Govinda. Tirupati is one of the oldest cities of India and finds mention in plenty of ancient Vedas and Puranas.
The non-stop chanting of ‘Om Namo Venkatesaya’, the mad pilgrim rush and the 8-feet tall idol of Lord Venkateshwara – everything about the Sri Venkateshwara Temple is majestic. Spread over an area of 26 kilometres and visited by nearly 50,000 pilgrims every day, the temple is also commonly referred to as the Temple of Seven Hills.
There are other temples in Tirupati too that you can visit, including the Sri Kalahasti temple, Sri Govindarajaswami Temple, the Kondandarama Temple, the Parashurameshwara Temple, and the ISKCON temple. Tirupati is home to a unique geological wonder that you shouldn’t miss out on! The Silathoranam is a natural arch formed out of rocks and is located at the Tirumala Hills.
Home to the most famous and important Vaishnavite shrine of Tirumala Venkateswara Temple and other historic temples and is referred to as the spiritual capital of Andhra Pradesh, Tirupati is one of the eight Swayam vyaktha kshetras dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Tirumala is one of the seven hills in Tirupati, where the main temple is located. The temple is believed to be placed where Lord Venkateshwara took the form of an idol and is hence home to the diety Govinda. Tirupati is one of the oldest cities of India and finds mention in plenty of ancient Vedas and Puranas. Spread over an area of 26 kilometres and visited by nearly 50,000 pilgrims every day, the temple is also commonly referred to as the Temple of Seven Hills. In Dravidian translation, Tiru means the sacred or Goddess Lakshmi and pathi means abode or husband. Tirupati or Tirumala is referred to as Pushpa-mandapa in the Acharya-Hridayam from the 13th century. According to the Varaha Purana, during the Treta Yuga, Lord Rama resided here along with Goddess Sita and Lord Lakshmana on his return from Lankapuri. As per the Purana, a loan of one crore and 11.4 million gold coins was sought by Lord Balaji from Kubera for his marriage with Padmavathi. To pay back the loan, devotees from all over India visit the temple and donate money.
The city became great Vaishnava centre during the time of Ramanujacharya in the 11th century, from where Srivaishnavism spread to other parts of the Andhra Desa. Tirupati survived the muslim invasions and during the early 1300s during the muslim invasion of south India, the deity of Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple in Srirangam was brought to Tirupati for safekeeping. The first temple at Tirumala Tirupati was built by King Thondaiman, the Tamil ruler of ancient Thondaimandalam who is said to have built the original Gopuram or tower and the Prakhara in the 8th century. The temple town for most of the medieval era part of Vijayanagara empire until the 17th century and its rulers contributed considerable resources and wealth to the temple. The city has many historical temples including the Venkateswara Temple which bears 1,150 inscriptions in Sanskrit, Tamil, Telugu and Kannada languages which specify the contributions of the Pallava Kingdom around the 9th century, the Chola kingdom around the 10th century and the Vijayanagara empire in the 14th century.
There was no human settlement at Lower Tirupati until 1500, but with the growing importance of Upper Tirupati, a village was formed at the present-day Kapilatheertham Road area and was named Kotturu. It was later shifted to the vicinity of Govindarajaswamy Temple which was consecrated around the year 1130. Later the village grew into its present-day form around the Govindaraja Swamy temple which is now the heart of the city. In 1932, the Tirumala Venkateswara Temple was handed over to Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanams by the TTD Act of 1932.
The Sri Venkateshwara temple is dedicated to Lord Venkateswara, a form of Vishnu, who is believed to have appeared here to save mankind from the trials and troubles of the Kali Yuga. Hence the place is also known as the Kaliyuga Vaikuntha and the Lord here is referred to as Kaliyuga Prathyaksha Daivam. The Tirumala hills are part of Seshachalam Hills range and are 853 metres or 2,799 ft above sea level. The Hills comprises seven peaks, representing the seven heads of Adisesha with the temple lying on the seventh peak, Venkatadri, on the southern banks of Sri Swami Pushkarini, a holy water tank. Hence the temple is also referred to as Temple of Seven Hills. The Temple is constructed in the dravidian architectural style and is believed to be constructed over a period of time starting from 300. The Garbagruha or sanctum sanctorum is called the Ananda Nilayam. Lord Venkateswara is in a standing posture and faces east in the garbha gruha. The temple follows the Vaikhanasa Agama tradition of worship and is one of the eight Vishnu Swayambhu Kshetras and is listed as 106th and the last earthly Divya Desam. The temple premises had two modern queue complex buildings to organise the pilgrim rush, the Tarigonda Vengamamba Annaprasadam complex for free meals to pilgrims, the Vaikuntam queue complex which is a series of interconnected halls that leads to the main temple, hair tonsure buildings and a number of pilgrim lodging sites. It is the richest temple in the world in terms of donations received and wealth. The temple is visited by about 50 to 100 thousand pilgrims daily or 30 to 40 million people annually on an average, while on special occasions and festivals, like the annual Brahmotsavam, the number of pilgrims shoots up to half a million making it the most-visited holy place in the world.
Standing to the north of Sri Venkateswara Temple is the Sri Varahaswami Temple which according to legend is said to belong to Sri Adi Varahaswami. It is advised to first pay a visit to this temple before visiting the Venkateswara temple, the reason being that Sri Varahaswami owned the seven hills on which the Venkateshwara temple stands. He agreed to hand the hills over to Sri Venkateswaraswami, on the condition that he too, should be worshipped. Hence, Sri Venkateswaraswami asked his devotees, to first pay a visit to Sri Varahaswami and then to him.
At a distance of about 5 km from the Tirumala temple in Tiruchanur, is the Sri Padmavathi Ammavari Temple dedicated to Goddess Padmavathi, also administered by the Tirumala Tirupati Devasthanam. Legend has it that while Akasha Raja of Thondamandalam was having a great yagna performed and had the earth ploughed, he found a little girl in a lotus flower, and hence the name, Padmavati. A voice from the skies asked him to love and bring up the child. As she grew up, she was married to Lord Venkateshwara. The temple is frequently visited by the devotees on their spiritual trail around the town.
The Vedadri Narasimha Swamy temple lies at a distance of 70 km from Tirupati and was constructed by Sir Krishna Deva Raya of Vijayanagar. It holds great mythological importance and is believed to be the site where Lord Vishnu battled with the demon rasksash Somakadu, won and took over the vedas from him.
The Sri Govindarajaswami temple is a 12th century Hindu Vaishnavite shrine built by Saint Ramanujacharya and is one of the biggest temple complexes in the district. The presiding deity is Lord Vishnu, also called Govindarajaswami. The beautiful traditional Dravidian architecture and its rich culture attract tourists in quite a large number every year.
A little away from the city of Tirupati, the Sri Venugopalaswami temple is devoted to Lord Venugopalan with the idol of Sri Sita Ramula Pattabhishekam. Some of the main festivals celebrated in this temple are Annual Bhramotsava, Ugadi Asthanam and Sankranti Utsavam.
The Sri Bedi Ananjaneyaswami Temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman. A legend states that Lord Hanuman wanted to go searching for a camel but his mother tied him with bedis and went back to the Akash Ganga. Many believe Lord Hanuman can be seen even today standing at that very location.
Dedicated to the Lord Vishnu, the Sri Veda Nayaranaswami temple is one of the few temples in the country that depict the incarnations of Lord Vishnu whose prime form, Matsya or the fish is also depicted. This is the place where Vishnu defeated demon Somaka and took the form of a fish to retrieve the Vedas thrown in the water by the demon.
Situated on top of Narayangiri Hill amidst beautiful scenery, the Srivari Padalu temple is believed to be the place where Lord Narayan first set his foot on earth. It is an important pilgrimage and visitors flock in large numbers to offer prayers to the footprints of Lord Narayan.
The Sri Kalyana Venkateswaraswami temple is an ancient Vaishnavite temple, also considered an archaeologically important monument in India. The presiding deity is Lord Venkateswara, who is considered to be highly powerful and can absolve one of their sins, doshas and get rid of any obstacles they face in their lives.
An ancient shrine dedicated to Lord Venkateswars, the Sri Prasanna Venkateswaraswami temple is a dravidian architectural splendour with a magnificent idol of the presiding deity. It is a believed that offering prayers to the deity here relieves one of doshas or sins and removes obstacles one faces while achieving their goals.
The Sri Kodandarama Swamy temple or the Kodandarama temple is a temple in the heart of Tirupati, dedicated to Lord Rama. The Varaha Purana suggests that Lord Rama, Sita Devi and Lakshmana stayed here when returning to Ayodhya from Lanka. Built by the Cholas in the tenth century, this temple commemorates their stay here. While Ugadi and Ram Navami are celebrated on a grander scale, the Brahmotsav is also celebrated here every year. There is a sub-shrine dedicated to Anjaneya or Lord Hanuman, Lord Rama’s most devoted devotee.
Kanipakam is a village most famous for the Kanipakam Vinayak temple, built in the 11th century by King Mahavarman Sundara Pandian and for the Shiva temple which was built by King Kullotunga Chola. The rich religious significance of the temples and the stunning ancient architecture attracts visitors in large numbers each year.
The Akasha Ganga Teertham is a waterfall, located at a distance of 3 km from the main temple which has water flowing all throughout the year and holds immense religious significance. Pilgrims can also pay homage to the Devi temple situated very close to the waterfall which is beautiful sight to see during the monsoon season. A sacred lake located amidst dense natural vegetation, the waters of the Tumbhuru Teertham is believed to have magical powers and can absolve one’s sins and help them attain moksha. The attraction is also famous for its natural beauty and is frequented by nature lovers for nature walks. A Shaivite temple, the Kapila Teertham is a famous pilgrimage in the city located at the entrance of a mountain cave at the foothills of Tirumala Hills and is a marvellous example of Dravidian architecture. The presiding deity is Lord Shiva who is locally known as Lord Kapileshwara and the idol of the deity was installed by Kapila Muni. Japali Teertham is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is situated amidst dense forests. It is believed that Lord Hanuman used to visit the location often to quiet his mind and soak in peaceful atmosphere. It is also believed that Lord Rama and Goddess Sita also stayed here. The water of the Teertham is said to have magical powers and can wash away all the sins a human has made. It is believed that taking a dip in the holy Papavinasam Teertham can absolve one of their sins. It is also famous for its scenic beauty with the route going to the falls going through uneven rocky trails amidst beautiful surroundings making it a perfect location for nature walks.
The Chakra Teertham waterfall is a famous water body considered to have high religious importance. It is believed that Lord Brahma performed penance at this location which was later cleansed by Lord Vishnu with his Sudarshan Chakra. The place where his Chakra fell is known as Chakra Teertham. The water is said to have healing powers and can absolve one of their sins. Considered a sacred waterfall, the Vaikuntha Teertham is associated with the legend of Ramayana. It is believed that Lord Rama’s vanarsena or monkey army located the teertham. A dip in the holy waters is considered to bring luck, good fortune and absolve one of their sins. At a distance of 4 kms from the city centre, the Kapila Theertham is a popular waterfall situated inside the premises of the Kapileswara Swamy temple at the base of the Sheshadari Hills. The water cascading down of 100 metres to form a pool at the base is a gorgeously enchanting sight to see. Located in Sri Venkateswara National Park, the Talakona Waterfalls is the highest waterfall in the region and a famous picnic spot. The water is believed to have medicinal properties and comes from an unknown underground stream. The attraction is also famous for trekking and has several trekking routes running around it amidst the scenic natural surroundings.
Also known as the Natural Arch, the Silathoranam is a notified National Geo-heritage Monument and a distinctive geological feature 1 km north of the Tirumala hills temple, near the Chakra Teertham. One of only three of this kind in the world, the arch measures 8 m in width and 3 m in height, and is naturally formed in the quartzites of Cuddapah Supergroup of Middle to Upper Proterozoic due to natural erosive forces. Silathoranam comes from two Telugu words, which comes from sila meaning rock and thoranam meaning a garland. Thus it means a garland strung over a threshold, connecting two vertical columns or an ‘arch’ as in this case. Mythology related to the arch, linked to the famous Tirumala hills temple of Lord Venkateswara, has three versions. According to one version, the arch resembles the hood of a serpent, a conch and a discus, all symbols of worship in Hindu religion and considered to be the source of the idol of Lord Venkateswara or Lord Balaji at the temple. The second version is that the main deity in the Tirumala temple is of the same height as the height of the arch. The third version is that Lord Vishnu, known as Balaji or Venkateswara at the Tirumala temple town, is supposed to have put his first foot down at a place called Padalu or Sreevaripadalu which is the highest point of Tirumala hills, the second step at the location of the arch. Thereafter, the next step is stated to have been placed where his idol is now worshipped in the temple at Tirumala.
Almost neighboring the Sri Venkateshwara Temple, is Swami Pushkarini Lake. According to the legends, the lake belonged to Lord Vishnu and was located in Vaikuntham, his divine abode. It was brought to the earth by Garuda, for the sport of Sri Venkateshwara. Extremely holy, the pilgrims usually take a dip in the waters of this lake before proceeding to the main temple.
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Located about 10 km from Tirupati and on the Eastern Ghats, the Venkateshwara National Park with an area pf 353 sq km and a biosphere reserve is home to endemic plant species and interesting fauna species like Slender Loris, Tree shrew, Wild dog etc. Bird watchers are also in for treats like the crested serpent eagle, the Indian roller and kingfishers etc. But the main attraction of this national park are the three waterfalls, viz, Talakona, Gundalakona and Gujana. The park is open on all days from 9 am to 5 pm with an entry fee of INR 50 for adults and INR 10 for children. The best time to visit the park is between December to March and August to November.
Located amidst the beautiful natural surroundings, the Deer Park in Tirupati houses a large number of deer and other regional flora and fauna. Tourists on their way to Tirumala often take a pit stop here and spend a few hours in the company of the deer, feed them and also watch them thrive in their natural habitat.
The Chandragiri Palace & Fort is a 11th century monument built by the Yadav Naidu kings and is also associated with the Vijayanagara Kingdom. The stunning structure is a perfect example of Vijayanagara architecture. Tourists are drawn by its rich history and heritage value. The attraction has fortnightly light and sound shows and the annual celebration of Madras Day.
Established in the year 1980, the Sri Venkateswara Dhyana Vignan Mandiram in Tirupati is a museum that houses some of the most traditional articles that are used to perform Puja. There are many stone and wood carved items that can be found here. The museum is extremely beautiful and fills into you a sense of religious faith not easy to describe.
The Sri Vari Museum is where one can get a glimpse into the religious history of the region. The museum has an impressive collection of artefacts that give insights into the ancient history and architecture of the temple that includes sculptures, photographs, scriptures, temple and pooja utensils, etc.
Regional Science Centre at Tirupati is a famous planetarium with a marvellous sky observation deck, galleries, parks and equipment of the highest quality. The centre also holds several demonstrations, exhibitions and shows in schools and institutes through their mobile science exhibition.
We have come to the end of our travel around Andhra Pradesh and I hope you have had as much fun reading it as I did researching and writing it. We will soon explore another state of India, so keep reading!
Kurnool The judicial capital of Andhra Pradesh, Kurnool is the state’s 5th largest city and is also known as the Gateway of Rayalaseema. Although the area has been inhabited for thousands of years, modern Kurnool was founded in the 16th century with the construction of the Konda Reddy Fort. Derived from the names Kandanavōlu or Kandanōlu, Kurnool used to be a crossing on the Tungabhadra River, where the bullock cart caravans are believed to have greased their wheels with kandana being a reference to grease. The Belum Caves have historical importance in the city as well as the Ketavaram rock paintings which are dated back to the Paleolithic era.
Yaganti, is famous for its temple of Sri Yagantiswamy, dedicated to Lord Shiva and is also known as the Uma Maheshwara temple. This ancient temple dates back to the 5th and 6th centuries and houses the idol of Shiva and Parvathi fused together, called Ardhanareeswara carved out of a single stone. The temple is not only of religious significance but also because it has many striking and unusual features. To begin with, Yaganti is perhaps the only temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, where he is worshipped in the form of an idol, instead of the Shiva Linga. The temple also has the Agastya Pushkarni, where water flows from the bottom of the hill, throughout the year. Worshippers take a dip in the holy water as a form of worship to the deity. There are different stories revolving around the origins of the temple. According to one story, the sage Agastya wanted to build a temple for Lord Venkateswara here but for some reason, the statue of the Lord could not be installed be here, and the sage then penanced for Lord Shiva. When Lord Shiva appeared, the sage realised that the place suited him better and then requested Lord Shiva to appear in the Ardhanareeswara form, to which he obliged, and which is present form worshipped here. According to a second story, when a devotee of Lord Shiva, known by the name of Chitteppa, was worshipping the Lord, the latter appeared to him in the form of a tiger. Chitteppa recognised that it was Lord Shiva in the tiger form, and he exclaimed Neganti Shivanu ne kanti, which means I saw Shiva. . The festival of Maha Shiv Ratri which falls around October or November each year is celebrated with great pomp and show at the temple. The numerous natural caves in the hills around the temple were home to several saints throughout the ages, prominent caves include the Agastya cave, which is believed to be the place where saint Agastya performed penance to get Lord Shiva’s blessings; the Veera Brahmam cave, the site where Potuluri Veera Brahmam, who is known as India’s Nostradamus, wrote some chapters of his prophecies in the Kala Gnanam and the Venkateswara Cave. All these caves are open for worship from dusk to dawn. A fantastic feature of the temple is its Pushkarini, a water stream with very pure water with no one being able to figure out the exact reason of how the water flows into Pushkarini in all the seasons and a bath in the holy Pushkarini before visiting Shiva is considered to be highly beneficial. Also according to legend, crows do not fly in Yaganti because when sage Agastya was meditating here, Kakasura, the king of crows had disturbed him from his meditation. The sage, in turn, cursed the crows not to enter the premises and since the crow is considered the vehicle of Lord Shani, he cannot enter the temple. Perhaps the most famous legend associated with the temple, is the growing Nandi. Not just a belief, by documented by the Archaeological Survey of India which says that it is because the rock has a growing nature associated with it.
Konda Reddy Fort, also known as the Kurnool Fort or Kondareddy Buruju, is located 2 km from Kurnool railway station. In ruins today, the structure was built by the rulers of the Vijayanagar Empire. The modest looking structure, once housed a tunnel that passed from under the Tungabhadra river and still holds a majestic watch tower, looking over to the city that grew around it.
The Adoni Fort is a 15th century monument built during the reign of the Vijayanagara dynasty and served as a military base with its walls stretching over 50 km making it the largest fort in the country. After the downfall of the Vijayanagara empire, the fort was in the possession of the Bijapur Sultanate and later, after the defeat of Tipu Sultan, came under the British rule.
The Belum Caves are black limestone caves which are the largest and longest cave system in India famed for their unique formations such as stalactite and stalagmite formations and formed over many million years. A centrally protected monument of national importance, the Belum Caves has numerous pathways with intricate patterns of water streams on limestone. One of the most striking features of the cave is the stunning rock formations called Saptasvarala Guha (the chamber of seven notes). Here, you can hear the musical sound when struck with the wood, bamboos or knuckles. Simhadwaram, which means doorway for gods is a breathtaking archway giving an illusion of a lion’s head. The Kotilingalu Chamber contains thousands of naturally made lingams. The lingams are formed of stalactites. Voodalamari is another stalactite formation resembling a banyan tree. Thousand hoods, yet another stalactite formation is shaped in the hood of thousands of cobras. Dhyan Mandir is an interesting rock limestone formation shaped as a bed with pillow, local legend suggests this place was used as the meditation centre by all saints. Today more than three and a half km of the cave has been successfully explored of which only a kilometer and half is accessible to tourists. In some places, the depth of the caves goes as deep as 46 m, this point is known as Pataalaganga. An underground stream flows all year at this point, gliding over the rocks and hiding beneath the surface again. The cave consists of various long passages, galleries, large cavities with fresh water and water tunnels and three spectacular sinkholes. A major structure of the caves is dedicated to the period when it was invaded by the Jain and Buddhist monks. Evidence of the Jain and Buddhist remains have been found in the caves. A meditation den, saint’s bed, and several relics were discovered from the cave. Few relics found inside the caves could be dated back to 4500 BC. An enormous forty feet high statue of Lord Buddha was installed outside the caves to commemorate the roles of monks in the caves. The base of the statue consists of a lotus which also has a huge room within but does not have such a good condition. The caves are open from 10 am to 5 pm with Indians paying INR 50 and foreigners INR 300 as entry fees.
A scenic village, Mahanandi is surrounded by dense forestation with the Nallamala Hills located to its west. The village has one of the nine shrines dedicated to Lord Nandi, also called Nava Nandulu and famous for a 10th century ancient temple, the Mahanandiswara Swami temple which draws pilgrims every year on the occasion of Mahashivratri.
Dedicated to Lord Narasimha Swami, the Ahobilam or the Nava Narsimha temple is the only temple where all the nine forms of the deity are worshipped. Ahobilam is believed to be the middle of Adishesha who expands all over the Nalmalla Hills. The temple was built according to the Vijayanagara style of architecture and houses idols of all the nine forms of Lord Narasimha Swami. The temples are are distributed all over the hill and have idols of the deity in their respective forms made of stone and most devotees cover all the temples in one trip to the region.
The Sai Baba Temple located on the banks of the river Tungabhadra is a beautiful star-shaped structure with a traditional Shikhara in the centre on the top. The sanctum sanctorum has an idol of Sai Baba made of pristine white marble. The complex also houses a meditation hall that can accommodate about 800 people.
The Sri Mahayogi Laxmamma Avva Temple is dedicated to Lakshmamma, also known as Avva. She was born in a poor Dalit family, had nothing to live off of and was considered insane because she was always found muttering to herself. Some believed in her powers and offered her food and clothing till she was alive. According to a legend, Avva’s limbs were mutilated but the next day she was seen doing her regular chores and after many such miracles she has been considered an avadhoot.
The Sri Ranganayaka Swamy temple is an 18th century temple built by Krishnadvaraya of the Vijayanagara dynasty who wanted to build a temple similar to the one he visited in Srirangam. He later dreamt of Lord Vishnu telling him that an eagle will direct him to the location where the temple must be built and the beautiful Vijayanagara structure is an architectural treat.
An important pilgrim centre dedicated to Goddess Saraswati, at the Kolanu Bharathi Saraswathi temple the century-old tradition of Aksharabhyasam is performed at this ancient temple. It is also considered to be the abode of Goddess Sri Bharati. The temple complex also has a Shivalinga, known as the Sapta Linga Kshetram, and a statue of Kaala Bhairav who protects the region.
A 19th century shrine dedicated to Lord Satyanarayana, the Satyanarayana Swamy temple is famous for its splendid architecture with a magnificent entrance and beautiful bas-relief and sculpture work on the gopuram.
On the banks of River Handri is a 17th century structure known as the Tomb of Abdul Wahab. A monument with elaborate workmanship, two majestic domes, verandahs, arches and more, the tomb was built after the death of Abdul Wahab Khan, the first Nawab of Kurnool. The tomb located near Osmania college and also known as Gol Gummaz as it slightly resembles Gol Gumbaz of Bijapur was recently renovated and is now in a much better condition.
The Jumma Masjid in Kurnool is a 17th century mosque built by Madu Qadiri who was a governor under Adil Shah. The splendid architecture of the mosque includes beautiful minarets, magnificent domes and spacious prayer halls making it a tourist attraction as well.
The Nallamala Forest is over a vast region of the Eastern Ghats and is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna including antelopes, neelgais, chinkaras and leopards. The forest area also includes the Nagarjunasagar – Srisailam Tiger Reserve. The natural landscape, the dense forestation with several stupendous waterfalls and other water bodies, make the attraction perfect for nature lovers.
A park with igneous rock formations, the Oravakallu Rock Garden has a restaurant, small ponds, boating facilities and a cave museum.
Ranamandala Konda is a religiously important attraction in the region as it is believed, this was the place where, during their exile, Lord Rama shot an arrow and it formed a lake to provide water to Goddess Sita. This is also where Lord Hanuman is believed to have fought demons while Rama was sleeping to ensure he doesn’t get disturbed. The attraction also has the famous Ranamandala Anjaneya Swamy temple which is a shrine with no roof.
A wildlife sanctuary spread across an area of 614sq kms, the Rollapadu Wildlife Sanctuary offers its visitors a journey into the wild, close to nature, amidst a number of diverse species of flora and fauna. Established in 1988, Rollapadu is especially known for being the home to the endangered species of the Great Indian Bustard and Lesser Florican. The wildlife sanctuary, spread across the huge area is the home to many birds and reptiles. With the Rollapadu village nearby, a man-made water reservoir, preserved for the consumption of wildlife, another reservoir for the collection of rainwater, Rollapadu Wildlife Sanctuary also sets a very good example of the mutual coexistence of mankind and nature. The sanctuary is open from 7 am to 6 pm.
Mantralayam A holy town, Mantralayam is located 74 km from Kurnool on the banks of the Tungabhadra river near the border with Karnataka. The town is known for Sri Guru Raghavendra Swami, a follower of the Vrindavant cult of Lord Krishna and a saint who entered into a samadhi alive in front of his disciples in the 17th century, a Madhwa saint who is considered to be a reincarnation of Prahlada who was a daitya king saved by Lord Vishnu’s Narasimha avatar. The temple and the Mutt complex are the main attractions here. The temple elephants and chariots carrying the deity around the temple on special occasions are spectacular as is the Tungabhadra river. The temple is open from 6 to 8:30 am, 9:30 am to 2 pm and between 4 to 9:30 pm though the best time to visit is during the evening aarti at 7 pm. Other sites worth visiting in the vicinity of the complex are the Panchmukhi Anjaneya Temple, the Lakshmi Venkateshwara Temple & the Vedic Pathshala or school.
Gandikota Known as the Grand Canyon of India, Gandikota is a small village near Kadapa flanked by the Pennar river on the right. The village is popular for the spectacular gorges formed by the river cutting through the Erramala hills. The narrow valleys with streams running between them and the steep rocky walls to give them company remind one of the Grand Canyon and requires a walk of almost a km from the main gate to reach the boulder from where you can observe the mesmerising view from the viewpoint near the fort. Located 1.5 hours away from the Belum Caves, the ruins of the Gandikota Fort built in the 13th century and flanked by the Pennar gorges on both sides and protected by a majestic 5-mile wall is spectacular. Built in red sandstone, the fort boasts of beautiful, intricate carvings in the interior. It also offers sweeping views of the hills and valleys below. In addition to a granary, jail and ruins of some temples, there are several structures within the fort that one can visit. The Raghunathaswamy temple is a unique temple inside the Gandikota Fort housing no idols but has airy corridors, complex hallways and is flanked by an array of towering pillars. The Madhavaraya temple on the other hand, has several idols and is a living masterpiece of ancient architecture. Boasting of several sculptures, the temple is a local favourite. The beautiful Jumma Masjid mosque situated within the premises called the Jamia Mosque, has a beautiful architecture, similar to that of the Charminar mosque in Hyderabad and is a popular camping spot because of the green cover in the vicinity.
Tadipatri An ancient temple town, Tadipatri was built during the golden years of the Vijaynagar empire. The Chintala Venkataramana temple is home to numerous, yet rare imagery of gods and their sculptures. Walking inside will reveal to an image of Lord Vishnu with multiple arms. This image of the deity is supposed to take on the forms of many other gods, such as one set of hands showing Lord Ram with a bow and arrow, while another set of arms shows Lord Krishna with a flute he. Built-in the shape of a chariot, the Chintala Venkataramana temple’s shrine dedicated to Garuda is made out of granite and carved with great detail. And it is similar to the Vittala Temple at Hampi which holds the Garuda mandapa. A protected heritage site from the 16th century, it is believed that the Bugga Ramalingeswara temple had been constructed between the years of 1490 and 1509 and is without any doubt, a must-visit for everyone. As one enters the temples, they are greeted with skilfully carved sculptures, towering gopurams and musical stone pillars. Sunsets are amazing with the temple as a backdrop. The temple is very distinct because of the occurrence of a natural underground spring, from where water creeps into the Garbha Griha. The water automatically drops onto the place where the Lingam is installed. It is believed that Saint Parasurama lived here and did extensive meditation here. The entire Shiv Purana is written on the temple walls. A beautiful village and mandal located within the heart of Bathalapalli, Anantasagram is a destination for nature lovers because of the huge amount of greenery and water from the riverbanks.
Anantapur A town in transition, Anantapur is at the confluence of the past and the future and reverberates with flashes of India’s glorious history and the true ethnic traditions and values. Anantapur also receives the second-lowest rainfall in India. It is said that the place has derived its name from Anaatasagaram, a big tank, which translates into endless ocean. Chikkavodeya, the minister of the Vijayanagar King, Bukka-I constructed the town of Anaatasagaram and Bukkarayasamudram.
Like all other ISKCON temples, the one at Anantapur, located at Somaladoodi village on the outskirts of Anantpur, is just as beautiful. The temple is in the shape of a horse-drawn chariot, with statues of four huge horses at the entrance. This temple is known as the Radha Parthasarathi Temple and was inaugurated in February 2008 and has a restaurant attached to it. The beautiful temple looks even more scintillating at night when lights illuminate its walls. The most cherished festival is Janmashtami, the birthday of Lord Krishna. The temple is open daily from 4 am to 12 noon and from 4:30 to 8:30 pm.
A recent addition, the Hanuman statue at Mounagiri is built several feet high and can be seen from several km afar as well as a temple, for those who wish to pray. The 37 feet tall Hanuman statue is made up of a single stone and was completed in the year 2010.
The Penukonda fort is located at a distance of nearly 70 km from Anantapur. Previously known as Ghanagiri, the name of the fort is derived from the word Penukonda, which literally means big hill. This historic fort was once the second capital of the Vijayanagar empire. According to archaeologists, the fort was built by Vira Virupanna Udaiyar’s rule, the son of King-Bukka I of Vijayanagar. A huge idol of Lord Hanuman is placed inside the fort. The 11-feet tall Penukonda Fort houses multiple mosques inside among which the Sher Khan Mosque is the most important. The Gagan Mahal, a palace inside the fort, was built back in the 16th century. Another palace, the Babayya Darga was constructed to symbolise harmony between Hindus and Muslims.
Situated 300 meters above sea level, the Gooty fort is one of the oldest hill forts in the state and the country. The name Gooty is derived from the town’s previous original name, Gowthampuri. Having been designated as a monument of national importance, the fort has been the stronghold of the Chalukyas, Mughals, Marathas, East India Company as well as the Vijayanagara empire before the Qutb Shahi dynasty took over. It is mentioned as the King of Forts according to various historical inscriptions found here. The mammoth Gooty Hill covers a vast area is surrounded by the town on three sides and the westernmost point housing the citadel of the fort. The ruins of the fort are dotted by numerous different buildings and spaces such as granaries, bastions, gunpowder magazine, ramparts, storerooms and temples. The fort is open daily from 9 am to 6 pm and there is no entry fee.
The Anantapur Clock Tower is the landmark in the town innagurated in 1947 and stands 71 m tall in the middle of the town and is well maintained.
Thimmamma Marrimanu is a huge banyan tree located at about 70 Km from Horsely Hills. This historical Marrimanu tree is has been preserved since ancient times with the word marri meaning banyan and manu meaning tree in the Telugu language.
Puttaparthi The holy abode of the Sathya Sai Baba, Puttaparthi is a town which takes you back to the days of ashrams. A tiny town, Puttaparthi has gained global fame as a religious centre offering modern approaches to religion, for being a unique village with urban facilities. Though Puttaparthi does not have many natural marvels or traditional tourist attractions, its richness and substance lie in its spiritual significance.
The main attraction here is the Sathya Sai Ashram known as Prashanti Nilayam, literally translates into the abode of peace. In the ashram one finds sprawling and beautiful educational institutions, stadiums, museums, hospitals and all the modern facilities capable of accommodating thousands of devotees at a time. The most discernible part of this ashram is the assembly hall where Sathya Sai Baba used to give his darshan. Inside the ashram is a banyan tree which was planted by by Sai Baba himself and is a silent zone for meditation in the ashram and is known as the Meditation Tree. A thick metal plate placed at the root of the tree is said to be joined by Sathya Sai Baba to boost the spirits amongt those who meditate here. The area is divided into separate parts for men and women. However, women are not allowed to visit before sunrise and after sunset for safety reasons. It is also believed that banyan trees have the power to purify the air all around, making the environment of the ashram all the more pristine. There is also an old tamarind tree in the ashram known as the Wish Fulfilling Tree. It is believed, that as a kid Sai Baba would take his friends up to this tree and ask them to think and wish for any fruit that they want to have, and the tree would give theme the same. The tree is located on the slope of a hill shadowing the Chitravathi river below.
The Shiva temple stands today where birthplace of Sathya Sai Baba is believed to be. One of the significant religious centre of the town, the Anjaneya Swamy Temple, dedicated to Lord Hanuman, houses a Siva Linga, believed to be brought by Sathya Sai Baba from Kasim, and a beautiful deity, which too shares a legend with Sathya Sai Baba. It is believed that as he was about to carry out the ritual of walking around the diety to worship and pay respects, the diety stopped him by saying that it is it, who should pay respect to him instead. At the foot of this deity one finds a pool of water which devotees believe to depict Lord Hanuman’s tears as his devotion to Lord Rama. The only temple in India dedicated to Sathyabhama, a lover and consort of Lord Krishna is here in Puttaparthi. The beautiful temple finds its origin to a dream that Sai Baba’s grandfather had where Sathyabhama appeared and asked him for an abode. The temple is adorned with various images of Lord Krishna. The Gopuram is a large and decorative gate devoted to Ganesh the elephant god. Built in 1975 as a birthday commemoration to Sai Baba, the gate is adorned with many multi-colored idols and stands over the entrance to his Ashram. Close to the Gopuram, is the Samadhi shrine, a cenotaph dedicated to Sai Baba’s parents. Morning prayers are carried here between 9:30 am and 11:30 am and the evening prayers are carried out between 4:30 and 6:30 pm. The area is also the site of an annual festival observed on Easwaramma Day, that is the death anniversary of Sai Baba’s mother. The festival is carried out with bhajans and special prayers and distributing food.
One of the most beautiful structures in Ashram, is the Chaitanya Jyoti Museum, which houses all stories and incidents of the life of Sai Baba, all the way from his early childhood. Visitors are introduced to the godliness and divinity of Sai Baba through multimedia presentations and more. The structure too, is a specimen of fine architecture and design which combines Chinese roofs, Moorish Spires, Gothic arches and Japanese and Thai styles. The museum was designed by a NASA scientist, Art-ong Jum Sai.
Inside the Ashram, one also finds a fascinating Planetarium known as the Sri Sathya Sai Space Theatre which on every Thursday conducts a show on space and astronomy with the idea to educate and create more awareness amongst the masses about the disciplines of Physics, Astronomy and Mathematics. There is a Spitz Space System which is used to get some amazing views of the night sky. The theatre can hold a maximum of 200 people at a time and tickets for the shows are given on a first come first basis. The show is available in both English and the Hindi, with the English show taking place between 10 and 10:45 am and the Hindi one between 11 and 11:45 am.
Close to the University in the ashram is the Spiritual Museum which showcases the foundation of one of Sai Baba’s main teachings, that is the unity of religions. The museum is constructed in a Shikhara style of architecture and the design also derives inspiration from North India’s Jain temples. The museum holds replicas, idols, artifacts and other instances of religions from all over the world. It also depicts and displays teachings of a number of saints and major religious convictions.
In our next part, which is the last one, we see Lepakshi, the hill station of Horsley Hills, the town of Chittoor which is a blend of old and new and the temple towns of Srikalahasthi and the world famous town of Tirupati
Memories and Such 
