Travel Bucket List: India – Maharashtra Part 2

After Mumbai, lets move to Pune. The second largest city in Maharashtra and also called “Oxford of the East” due to the large number of educational institutions in the city, Pune or Poona is also considered to be the cultural capital of the state.

Copper plates dated 858 and 868 show that by the 9th century an agricultural settlement known as Punnaka existed at the location of the modern Pune which was ruled by the Rashtrakuta dynasty. Pune was part of the territory ruled by the Seuna Yadavas of Devagiri from the 9th century to 1327. In 1599, Pune became part of the fiefdom granted to Maloji Bhosale for his services to the Ahmadnagar Sultanate and was ruled by the Ahmadnagar Sultanate until it was annexed by the Mughals in the 17th century. Maloji Bhosale’s grandson, Shivaji, the founder of the Maratha Empire, was born at Shivneri, a fort not far from Pune. It changed hands several times between the Mughals and the Marathas in the period 1680 to 1705. After the destruction of the town in raids by the Adil Shahi dynasty in 1630 and again between 1636 and 1647, Dadoji Konddeo, oversaw the reconstruction of the town. He stabilised the revenue collection and administrative systems of the areas around Pune and the neighbouring Maval region. Shivaji’s mother, Jijabai is said to have commissioned the building of the Kasba Ganapati temple. The Ganesha idol consecrated at this temple has been regarded as the presiding deity (Gramadevata) of the city. From 1703 to 1705, towards the end of the 27-year-long Mughal–Maratha Wars, the town was occupied by Aurangzeb and its name was changed to Muhiyabad.

In 1720, Baji Rao I was appointed Peshwa (Prime Minister) of the Maratha Empire by Chhatrapati Shahu. He moved his base from Saswad to Pune in 1728, marking the beginning of the transformation of what was a kasbah into a large city. He also commissioned the construction of the Shaniwar Wada on the right bank of the Mutha River. The construction was completed in 1730, ushering in the era of Peshwa control of the city. The patronage of the Maratha Peshwas resulted in a great expansion of Pune, with the construction of around 250 temples and bridges in the city, including the Lakdi Pul and the temples on Parvati Hill. The building of temples led to religion being responsible for about 15% of the city’s economy during this period. The Peshwa’s influence in India declined after the defeat of Maratha forces at the Battle of Panipat but Pune remained the seat of power. In 1802 Pune was captured by Yashwantrao Holkar in the Battle of Poona, directly precipitating the Second Anglo-Maratha War of 1803–1805. The Peshwa rule ended with the defeat of Peshwa Bajirao II by the British East India Company in 1818. The city was known as Poona during British rule. Poona Municipality was established in 1858. A railway line from Bombay to the city opened in 1858, run by the Great Indian Peninsula Railway (GIPR). Poona was prominently associated with the struggle for Indian independence. In the period between 1875 and 1910, the city was a centre of agitation led by Gopal Krishna Gokhale and Bal Gangadhar Tilak. The city was also a centre for social reform led by Mahatma Jyotirao Phule, feminist Tarabai Shinde, Dhondo Keshav Karve and Pandita Ramabai. They demanded the abolition of caste prejudice, equal rights for women, harmony between the Hindu and Muslim communities, and better schools for the poor.

The must-see places to visit in this city steeped in culture are below:

Shaniwar Wada
A prominent historical landmark in Pune is Shaniwarwada, a majestic 286 year-old fortification which was built in 1732 and which was the seat of the Peshwas of the Maratha Empire in their heydays. In 1828, the fort was destroyed by a huge fire and later the remnants were transformed to become a tourist site. Shaniwarwada was a seven-storied capital building of the Peshwas built by Peshwa Bajirai I and the Peshwas wanted the building to be made of stone alone. However, after the completion of the ground floor, the people of Satara insisted that stone monument can be sanctioned and built only by the Shahu King, not the Peshwas. With respect to it, the Peshwas were asked to continue the construction of the building by using only bricks. But when the British attacked, only the base floor survived while all the other floors were completely destroyed. The major buildings inside the fort are Thora Rayancha Diwankhana or the court reception hall of the eldest royal member, Naachacha Diwankhana which is the dance hall, Juna Arsa Mahal that is the Old Mirror Hall and so on. Since all the buildings were destroyed in the fire, only descriptions of the remaining areas are available currently. The doorways were made of teak arches with ornamental teardrop teak pillars shaped like Suru trunks. Ceilings were beautified by numerous chandeliers and the floors were filled with polished marble adorned with rich Persian rugs. The walls displayed paintings depicting the Hindu epics. The top floor of the building enacted as the residence of the Peshwa and it was called Meghadambari.
The Shaniwar Wada, although ridden with tales of treachery and deceit, is one of the last standing testimonies to the grandeur, valour, and the just rule of the Peshwas. The entire old part of the city of Pune is laid out in a chaotic yet ironically, orderly fashion all around this historical structure. It is around Shaniwar Wada that you will find the oldest markets of Pune including Laxmi Road, Tulshibaug, Ravivar Peth etc. Shaniwarwada is open all days of the week from 8 am to 6:30 pm and there is a Light & Sound show daily. Tickets for the show can be booked between 6:30 – 8:30 pm. Entry fee for Indian citizens is INR 5 while for foreigners it is INR 125. The price of the Light & Sound show is INR 25 per person.

Aga Khan Palace
Built by Sultan Muhammed Shah Aga Khan III in the year 1892, the Aga Khan Palace is one of the most important landmarks in Indian history and has been instrumental in many defining moments of India’s independence. It was once the site where Mahatma Gandhi, his wife Kasturba Gandhi, as well as Sarojini Naidu and Mahadev Desai were held prisoners. Spread over a vast land of 19 acres, the palace is now the headquarters of the Gandhi National Memorial society. The Sultan built the palace to support the poor in the neighbouring areas who were hit by a famine. In the memory of Kasturba Gandhi and Mahadev Desai, architect Charles Corea had their memorials built in the premises of the palace. The palace houses a museum which holds a rich collection of pictures. There are also other items like the personal belongings of Gandhis. The Palace also has the ashes of Mahatma Gandhi buried in its ground. In 2003, the monument was declared to be of national importance by the Archaeological Survey of India. The palace is open all days of the week from 9 am to 5:50 pm and entry fee for Indians is INR 5 while that for foreigners it is INR 100.

Lal Mahal
Located near Shaniwarwada, Lal Mahal or Red Palace is a historic landmark from the 16th century. Subject to innumerable attacks and initial revival, the palace has significant stories to tell. It was first restored by Shivaji’s father Shahaji Bhosle for his family to stay in the 1630s. The original one had undergone several destructions and the current one is a reconstructed structure, built between 1984 and 1988. Shivaji’s wedding with Maharani Saibai took place in this palace. There is nothing much that this place exhibits or explains because of continuous harm to the building. Consequently, it leaves much to imagination like how big it was, how many rooms etc. The original monument was constructed with the aim of rejuvenating the city of Pune when Dadoji Kondev entered the city with Shivaji Maharaj. Pune Municipal Corporation was the one who rebuilt the current Lal Mahal and the construction was begun in 1984 and ended in 1988. The current palace displays a collection of large sized oil paintings based on the important events happened in the life of Shivaji. There is the Jijamata Garden now recognised as a recreational park for kids.The palace is open on all days between 9 am and 1 pm and then again between 4 – 8 pm. Entry fee for all is INR 3 per person.

Dagdusheth Halwai Ganpati Temple
The Shreemant Dagdusheth Halwai Ganapati temple is a famous Pune landmark which is visited by thousands of pilgrims each year. The annual ten-day Ganesh festival celebrated at the temple is the main festival at this temple. The inception of the temple took place over 125 years ago in 1893 by Shri Dagdusheth Halwai (a confectioner) and his wife, Lakshmibai. The idol of Lord Ganapati is 2.2 meters high and 1 meter wide and is adorned with almost 40 kilos of gold. The main idol is insured for a sum of INR 10 million. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 11 pm.

Parvati Hill Temple
Constructed as the personal temple of the Peshwas by Balaji Baji Rao in the 17th century, the Parvati Hill Temple rises over 2,000 feet and offers sweeping views of the city. It serves as a shrine for several Hindu Gods- God Shiva, Goddess Parvati, God Vishnu, Goddess Rukmini and God Vitthalla, and God Vinayakar. The Parvati temple, a black stone structure which lies among four other temples and the Peshwa Museum and Parvati Water Tank on the hill however, is dedicated to Goddess Parvati and Lord Shiva. The hill is accessed by climbing 103 stone steps which were originally designed to allow elephants to ascend and descend from the hill. It doesn’t take anyone longer than 10 minutes to reach the top. The hill is the highest point in Pune. The gates of the temple open at 5.00 am and 8.00 pm, while the hill is open daily from 8 am to 5 pm. Sunsets from the hill is beautiful and is favourite activity of Punekars.

Pataleshwar Cave Temple
An atypical rock cut cave temple, the Pataleshwar Cave Temple is an ancient temple that dates back to the 8th century during the Rashtrakuta period. The temple is also known as Panchaleshvara or Bamburde temple. The main God in the temple is by Lord Pataleshwar, who is the God of the Underworld, a form of Lord Shiva. Carved out of a single magnanimous rock, this spellbinding monolith originally was located outside the town and when the city limits were expanded, the temple is situated now in downtown Pune. It has been declared as a protected monument by the government. The construction of the temple was inspired by the majestic Elephanta Caves but it was left incomplete. For the same reason, the temple has no real entrance; the only major entrance is next to a banyan tree in the courtyard. The temple is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The temple is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm and entry is free.

Vetal Tekdi
A prominent hill in the city limits of Pune is Vetal Hill which is the highest point at an elevation of 2600 feet. Vetala temple is also located on the top of the hill and that is how the hill got its name as Vetal Hill. Adventure seekers come here in plenty to escape from the hustles and bustles of the city and it is a great morning trek location. The hill surrounds the city across a distance of almost 11 km and acts as the lungs of the city. Vetal Tekdi has a mostly dry deciduous type of vegetation and a number of bird species that are native to the region also call it home. In fact, it is not unusual to spot a peacock or two lingering on the premises early in the morning. Near the temple, there is an observation desk set up by the Indian Forest Department. Vetal Tekdi has two spurs named Fergusson College Hill and Chatturshrungi Hill. There is no particular timing to visit the hill but it is advised to trek up the hill before dawn to enjoy the beautiful sunrise and the unbeatable serenity.

Sinhagad Fort
Located in the Sahyadri Mountains, Sinhagad Fort is an ancient fortress known for its historical significance and architecture. It was once known as Kondhana and has witnessed a number of battles; a notable battle being the 1670 Battle of Sinhagad. The name, “Sinhagad”, literally means Lion’s Fort signifying its strength and brilliance. Today, the structure is a perfect landmark for trekkers as it is located at a height of over 750 metres in the Sahyadri Mountains. In fact, the fort is strategically built right in the centre of the line of Maratha forts built in the Sahyadris. Some of these citadels are the Rajgad Fort, Torna Fort and the Purandar Fort. The place is also famous among photographers and nature lovers. Sinhagad Fort and its surroundings mostly provide a good environment for a quick getaway. People living nearby often head to the attraction over the weekend. Back in the time, renowned personalities like Bal Gangadhar Tilak, Mahatma Gandhi have also visited the fort for meetings and holidays. The mountain also serves as a great location for training of the National Defence Academy Students. They hike up the hill till the fort in complete battle gear. Due to its historical and cultural significance, there are restrictions on partying, cooking/ consuming non-vegetarian food, alcohol etc. Nonetheless, one is bound to have a great time if they avoid these activities and soak in the dilapidated yet striking structure and the scenic surroundings.

Shivneri Fort
Shivneri Fort is the birthplace of the founder of the Maratha Empire, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj. It was built in the 16th century and was recognised as a military fortification. The place is also famous for being the place where Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj was trained. Its proximity from Pune, atop a hill with Junnar at its base, makes Shivneri Fort a good picnic spot for the locals. Its sheer magnificence draws a considerable number of visitors each year. Plus, there are some more attractions nearby which can be covered along with the fort in a day. Its terrain makes it a good trekking route too. Having said that, several history lovers are also drawn to the attraction for its historical significance. An English Traveller, Fraze, who visited Shivneri Fort in the late 17th century noticed that the fort was so well managed that it has enough supplies to feed thousands of families for about 6 to 7 years. The ancient architecture and its massive built is also worth a visit to Shivneri Fort.

Travel Bucket List: India – Maharashtra Part 1

I am in India now and was waiting for this opportunity to share my home state of Maharashtra with you. I have shared about the state in detail previously, so won’t go into too much detail now. You can read that blog post to learn more about the state.

Maharashtra, meaning ‘Great State’ lies in the western part of India and is the third largest state in terms of area in the Indian Union with about 9.36% of India’s land mass and can be compared to Italy in terms of size. If you take population as the parameter, Maharashtra is the second most populous state, having around 16% of India’s population, second only by the northern state of Uttar Pradesh. The state is also the world’s subnational entity and the population of Maharashtra can be compared to that of Mexico. The state’s population is almost evenly divided between urban and rural areas. This is one of the richest and most industrialised states in India, with the state (and especially the city of Mumbai) contributing the highest in terms of GDP to the Indian economy.

Maharashtra was formed by merging the western and south-western parts of the Bombay State, Berar and Vidarbha, and the north-western parts of the Hyderabad State and splitting Saurashtra (in present-day Gujarat) by the States Reorganisation Act. Its capital, Mumbai is the most populous urban area in India. The city of Nagpur hosts the winter session of the state legislature and the city of Pune is known as the ‘Oxford of the East’ due to the presence of several well-known educational institutions. Nashik is known as the ‘Wine Capital of India’ as it has the largest number of wineries and vineyards in the country.

Maharashtra was ruled by the Maurya Empire in the fourth and third centuries BC. Around 230 BC, Maharashtra came under the rule of the Satavahana dynasty for 400 years. The state was also ruled by Western Satraps, Gupta Empire, Gurjara-Pratihara, Vakataka, Kadambas, Chalukya Empire, Rashtrakuta Dynasty, and Western Chalukya before finally, the Yadava ruled the state. In the early 14th century, the Yadava Dynasty, which ruled most of present-day Maharashtra, was overthrown by the Delhi Sultanate ruler Ala-ud-din Khalji. Later, Muhammad bin Tughluq conquered parts of the Deccan, and temporarily shifted his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad in Maharashtra. After the collapse of the Tughluqs in 1347, the local Bahmani Sultanate of Gulbarga took over, governing the region for the next 150 years. After the break-up of the Bahamani sultanate in 1518, Maharashtra split into five Deccan Sultanates and this continued till around the early 17th century when Shahaji Bhosale, an ambitious local general who had served Ahmadnagar Nizamshahi, the Mughals and Adil Shah of Bijapur at different periods during his career, attempted to establish his independent rule. His son Shivaji Maharaj succeeded in establishing the Maratha Empire which was further expanded during the 18th century by the Peshwas (Pune), Bhonsles (Nagpur), Gaekwads (Baroda), Holkars (Indore) and Scindias (Gwalior). At its peak, the Maratha empire covered much of the subcontinent, encompassing a territory of over 2.8 million km². The Marathas are credited to a large extent for ending the Mughal rule in India. The Third Anglo-Maratha War (1817–1818) led to the end of the Maratha Empire and East India Company and then the British ruled the state and India from 1819.

On to exploring more of the state….

Mumbai
We start with the state capital of Mumbai (and my hometown) which will be the starting point for most tourists to the state. Mumbai is the second most populous city in India and fourth most populous city in the world. Mumbai is the financial, commercial and entertainment capital of India. It is also one of the world’s top ten centres of commerce in terms of global financial flow, generating 6.16% of India’s GDP and accounting for 25% of industrial output, 70% of maritime trade in India and 70% of capital transactions to India’s economy. Originally starting life as seven distinct islands, the city of Mumbai is now a huge metropolis which seems to only extend further each year. The city was ceded to the Portuguese by the sultan of Gujarat and then became part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza when she married Charles II of England in 1661. At that point, it came under the control of the East India Company.

The name Mumbai is derived from Mumbā or Mahā-Ambā, the name of the patron goddess of Mumbadevi of the native Koli community. The Portuguese are said to have called Mumbai ‘Bom Baim’ which means ‘Good Bay’ as Mumbai has a very good natural harbour. When the British took over Mumbai through the East India Company, the name became anglicised to Bombay which was then changed officially to Mumbai in 1995 by the then state government.

I’ve written a blog post on unique places to visit in Mumbai, so this post will not talk about those places. Of course the must see places include:

The Gateway of India

The Gateway of India in Colaba, which is a structure built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary of England when they visited India in 1911. This place was also the scene where the last British soldiers left their most prized crown colony after India gained independence in 1947. The Gateway is now iconic and is a representation of the city.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in Fort is a magnificent heritage building which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and which houses the headquarters of the Central Railway. Fondly called VT (for its erstwhile name of Victoria Terminus), the building was designed by Frederick William Stevens, a British architect and is wonderful example of the Indo-Victorian Gothic architectural style. Construction started in 1787 to mark the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria, hence the name. The terminus is extremely important with respect to transportation within the city and beyond. Today, at least 1250 trains leave the station every day from its 14 platforms, carrying around 3.3 million passengers in and out of the city. It is the hub of the suburban (local) railways as well as some of the long distance trains. A major part of the building houses the administrative section of the Central Railways. The building is also beautifully lit up for major festivals and public holidays and is a beautiful sight to see as you walk along DN Road in the Fort area.

Nehru Science Centre

Located in Worli, the Nehru Science Centre is another iconic structure in the Mumbai skyline. It is India’s largest interactive science centres and was first conceived as a Science & Technology Museum in late sixties and took final shape as India’s largest interactive science centre in 1977. A major highlight of Nehru Science Centre is the three-dimensional science show which is named ‘Monsters of the Deep’. It takes people into a seemingly realistic world of the underwater kingdom, where they can see mythical monsters closely. A science odyssey named ‘Grand Canyon Adventure’ is also organised at this centre. This 45-minute film is based on the famous Grand Canyons of Arizona and attempts at spreading awareness about saving freshwater resources of the world. This destination is a must-see for students and aspirants of science.

Hanging Gardens and Kamala Nehru Park

The Hanging Gardens and Kamla Nehru Park which are located in Malabar Hills overlook the stunning Marine Drive. Established in the 1880s, this garden was designed by Ulhas Ghapokar to protect a nearby reservoir from getting polluted and are named Perozeshah Mehta, who is also the father of Mumbai’s Municipal Charter. The garden has a vast area and well-laid pathways. The colourful flower clock at the centre and numerous animal-shaped hedges are the unique features of this park. Situated opposite the Hanging Gardens, Kamla Nehru Park is named after Jawaharlal Nehru’s wife, Kamala Nehru. It extends over an area of about 4,000 square feet and provides a glittering sight of the city of Mumbai. From this garden, one can also enjoy the spectacular sight of the Chowpatty Beach and Marine Drive. The Boot House or Old Woman’s Shoe, completely made up of stone, is another interesting feature of the park. The garden and park are open from 5 am to 9 pm and entrance is free.

Siddhivinayak Temple

The Siddhivinayak Temple in Prabhadevi which was built in 1801, is a temple and God I believe in a lot. No visit to Mumbai is complete for me without a visit to the temple. Most worshippers believe that praying in this temple and sharing your desires to the Lord and his mount will lead to the fulfilment of the wishes and desires.

ISKCON Temple

The ISKCON Temple located near Mumbai’s famous Juhu beach is also known as the Hare Rama Hare Krishna Temple. And is dedicated to Lord Krishna. The temple is one of the 400 ISKCON temples across the world and was built in 1978 under the Hare Krishna Movement founded Bhakti Vedanta Swami Prabhupada aimed to spread Krishna consciousness. The architectural splendour of the ISKCON Temple is worth-seeing. Both, its interior and exterior walls are adorned with murals and sculptures. In the central prayer hall, one will find paintings portraying the incidents from the life of Lord Krishna. The best time to visit the ISKCON Temple is during Krishnastami, which falls in the month of August or September. The temple is free to enter and is open from 4:30 am till 12:30 pm and again from 4:30 to 8:30 pm

Mahalakshmi Temple

The ancient Mahalakshmi Temple dedicated to the Goddess of Wealth, Lakshmi is located at Bhulabai Desai Road. Constructed in 1785, the temple contains idols of the Tridevi goddesses Mahakali, Mahalakshmi, and Mahasaraswati. The main idol of Goddess Mahalakshmi is placed on the far side of the ornamented gate and is seen on a tiger. In the month of March/April and September/October, the Sun rays of rising sun fall on the deities for few minutes. You used to be able to go down a flight of stairs and be able to sit on the rocks at the foot of the temple and contemplate the Arabian Sea, but now it has been cordoned off and you can only view the sea through a gate and some grills. You can also see the Haji Ali Dargah from this vantage point. As with most places of worship, entrance to the temple is free, and the temple remains open from 6 am to 10 pm.

Haji Ali Dargah

The Haji Ali Dargah is a renowned Islamic shrine nestled on a small island close to the sea shore of Worli in Mumbai. The Dargah was constructed in 1431, in the memory of a Muslim saint Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari. Before his death, he expressed a wish that he wanted his shroud to be immersed in water rather than being buried underground. His followers obeyed his wish and constructed a tomb at the spot where his shroud rested after floating in the sea. Although the original dargah is more than 600 years old, its present structure was built between 1960 and 1964. This shrine witnesses a huge footfall of devotees who come here and offer homage to the saint, irrespective of their religion, caste, creed and social status. This shrine is visited by over 40,000 people on all days, particularly Thursdays and Fridays. The dargah can be reached by a narrow pathway across the Worli bay that connects the shrine with the city. It is just a 500 yard walk for the devotees from the bay to the shrine. The shrine is closed during high tide when walkway goes underwater and is open between 5:30 am and 10 pm.

Babulnath Temple

Located on a small hillock near Girgaum Chowpatty, is one of the oldest temples in Mumbai, the Shri Babulnath Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the lingams and idols in the temple were originally consecrated in the 12th century by the Hindu king Raja Bhimdev. Over a period of time, the temple was buried and lost. The idols were rediscovered in the 18th century. The temple was patronised by Hindu merchants and Gujarati community in 1780. A bigger temple was built in 1890 by contributions made by the Gujarati merchants. In the year 1900, a tall spire was added to this auspicious temple of Lord Shiva but a lightning strike damaged the spire in the 1960s. The temple is considered very unique and fascinating. It is nearly 1,000 feet above the sea level, and overlooks the Arabian Sea.

Mount Mary Church

The Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, more commonly known as Mount Mary Church, is a Roman Catholic Church located in Bandra. Dedicated to Virgin Mary, the church was built in 1640. Jesuit priests brought the statue of Mary from Portugal and built a chapel in 16th Century. This small basilica was later renovated to its current semi-Gothic form. It was destroyed in 1738 during a raid by the Marathas and then rebuilt in 1761. It is believed that the church has unbelievable healing powers and for this reason, the church is visited by many devotees every day. People who suffer from any disease bring wax figures depicting their illnesses to the Mount Mary Church in the hope that they would be cured. Some also say that those who sincerely pray at the Mount Mary Church often get their wishes fulfilled. The church is popular for a festival of Mother Mary popularly known as Bandra Fair in the month of September. The feast is followed by a week-long celebration and is visited by thousands of people from all faiths. During the Bandra Fair, the entire area is decorated with festoons and buntings. One can get a spectacular view of sunsets from this church. The church is open from 8 am to 8:30 pm from Mondays to Saturdays and from 10 am to 7 pm on Sundays.

Juhu Beach

One of the most popular of Mumbai’s beaches, Juhu beach has been immortalised in countless Bollywood movies. The beach stretches for some six km with the southern end home a number of luxury hotels. The beach is most famous for its street-side food and is a must stop for most tourists in the city.

Chowpatty Beach/Girgaum Chowpatty

Another famous beach in Mumbai, the Chowpatty beach stands at the end of Marine Drive and is a popular haunt of both locals and tourists, especially during the weekends. The beach is famous for its street food and every evening, the beach is crowded by people of all ages, along with food kiosks, ferries and balloon sellers. Tourists can either sit under the shade of stunted trees to relax or taste the flavours of variety of street food. Take a stroll on the golden sands and admire the sunset as you much on the foods that are famous in the city.

Colaba Causeway

Famous for being a shopping paradise, Colaba Causeway was one of the scenes of the terror attack in 2008. It acts as the land link between Colaba and the Old Woman’s Island. From roadside vendors to glamorous boutiques, the street sells everything you can think of buying – in different quality and prices. You can start at the causeway and make your way to the Gateway, shopping and sightseeing as you go along.

Film City

Spread across a vast area of 520 acres, Film City comprises of about twenty indoor studios and is located in the northwestern part of Mumbai. Film City is often regarded as a home of Bollywood. The place is so vast that about 1000 film sets can be erected here simultaneously. Over the years, it has been the locations for a number of Bollywood films. Almost over 900 movies and many more television shows have also been shot here. Today, Film City has grown to be one of the best film studios, well-equipped with all the essential amenities and world-class facilities. Not only is it a great place for film shoots, but it is also filled with verdant greenery and refreshing expanses. Built on the lines of the Film City of California, today it is considered as synonymous to Bollywood. There are various tours available which you can go on to see live shooting as well as the back-end aspects of filmmaking, if you are so inclined.

Sanjay Gandhi National Park


The Sanjay Gandhi National Park, previously known as the Borivali National Park covers approximately 20% of Mumbai’s geographical area and is home to a staggering thirteen hundred species of flora and more than five hundred species of fauna respectively. Covering an area of 104 square kilometers, it is one of Asia’s most visited National Parks with over 2 million visitors every year. The park is also said to be the largest park in the world located within city limits. There are two artificial lakes within the forest thriving with crocodiles and migratory birds all year. The lakes supply drinking water to the city. The park was first introduced in 1974 and helps to have a change from the usual sights, attractions, and rush of the big city. The Sanjay Gandhi National Park is known for its evergreen dense forests, bird population, butterflies, and the small population of tigers. The Kanheri Caves are also located inside the national park and is another reason to visit this sprawling green lung in the concrete jungle that is Mumbai.

Kanheri Caves

Located inside the Sanjay Gandhi National Park on the outskirts of the city in Borivali, the Kanheri Caves constitute a group of rock-cut monuments chiseled out of a massive basaltic rock. The name of these caves has originated from the Sanskrit word Krishnagiri, meaning black in colour. These caves were formed between 1st century BC and 10th century AD, with the earliest rocks comprising 109 tiny rock-cut cells. Most caves were used as Buddhist Viharas in ancient times and were meant for living, study and meditation. The site also served as a university during the rule of the Kushanas and the Mauryas. The Kanheri caves are divided into three different caves, each of which has a stone plinth for a bed. The caves have chaityagrihas with rock-cut stupas where Buddhists worshipped. There are single and multiple celled viharas or monasteries that were abode to Buddhist monks. The caves also had podhis or water cisterns which were dug skillfully to trap rainwater for use during summers. The most distinguished of these caves is Cave 3, which is India’s second largest chaityagriha, after Karla in Pune. The most impressive attractions of these caves are exquisite paintings of Gautam Buddha and a large Buddhist image known as Dagoba. Nearly 51 legible inscriptions and 26 epigraphs are found at Kanheri, which include the inscriptions in Brahmi, Devanagari and 3 Pahlavi epigraphs found in Cave 90. One of the significant inscriptions mentions about the marriage of Satavahana ruler Vashishtiputra Satakarni with the daughter of Rudradaman I. Cave 34 has unfinished paintings of Buddha on the ceiling of the cave. The caves are located about 5 km from the entrance of the Sanjay Gandhi National Park and are a delight for nature lovers with small waterfalls, natural streams and dense forests along with serene surroundings. Visitors must pay entry fees at the park gate and at the cave entrance. Tourists can travel to the park by buses or auto rickshaws. From the main gate one can take vans that shuttle between the main gate and the cave entrance. It is a 15 minutes ride, operated every 20 minutes. The entry fee is Rs. 40 for the national park and Rs. 5 for the caves and the park and Kanheri Caves are open on all days except Mondays with the park open from 7:30 am to 6 pm and the caves open from 9 am to 5 pm.

Mandapeshwar Caves

The Mandapeshwar Caves which means “The Hall of the Lord” were built around 520 by Buddhist Monks. The monks who stayed at the Mandapeshwar Caves would use the caves as a rest stops for merchants and also polytheise when travelling merchants would use the caves as rest stops. After the caves were built, the monks hired some Persian artists travelling through the mountains to paint the interiors. They created magnificent works of art on the walls of the caves that, unfortunately, can barely be seen today. The caves outlived the tests of time but their significance changed over the centuries. Archaeologists discovered that several sculptures of Hindu Gods and Goddesses were created inside the caves during the 8th century. Till the early 18th century, the Mandapeshwar Caves were used by locals, travellers etc. as a place of worship or to rest. In 1739, the Marathas invaded this part of Mumbai and the caves were left deserted. The caves were rediscovered in the 20th century and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There is much more to Mumbai than what most people think, but then the post about the state becomes a post about the city, so I will stop here. In the next part we will travel to other places in the state.

Travel: Interesting Mumbai Attractions and Experiences

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I have a serious case of writers’ block and just can’t think of anything to write. So I was browsing the net to see if I can find some inspiration when I came across this list about my hometown Mumbai. This is a list of the top attractions in Mumbai if you want to know.

Some of these places are old favourites, and some of them are places where I have never been earlier. This list is a good starting point for me to use when I next go to Mumbai and take BB & GG around to play tourist.

I’ve spoken many times about my birthplace and hometown of Mumbai before. The financial capital of India, and one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the country (before the word was even a word), Mumbai is fast-paced, and some may even say a cold city. But it’s a city like no other. I may go anywhere in the world, live across continents, but Mumbai will always hold a very special place in my heart. Like someone once said, “Mumbai is a city, but Bombay is an emotion”. Old-timers still call the city Bombay, we still can’t get Mumbai as easily in our lips as Bombay, even though the name change was way back in 1995!

So anyway on to the attractions and experiences which make this city so special.

Kala Ghoda

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Kala Ghoda which means black horse in Hindi is where the biggest cultural festival of the year takes place. The entire main street is taken over by stalls selling art and craft work, and prime performance venues are booked for plays, workshops and other events. The street is also lined with art installations, food stalls and street performers. If you are in Mumbai when it’s not festival time (which happens in February), you can still stroll along this area to see the neo-colonial and classic British architecture. I love walking here on Sundays when it is quite empty of the crowds which happen during a weekday because this is the heart of the city’s business centre. Walk along PM Road from CST station to Kala Ghoda and soak in the atmosphere of colonial British Bombay.

Marine Drive

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The Queen’s Necklace as it’s fondly called is a 3.5 kilometre stretch in south Mumbai which turns into a major hangout spot during the evenings. It is called the Queens’s Necklace because, if viewed at night from an elevated point anywhere along the drive, the street lights resemble a string of pearls in a necklace. There’s a great view of the Mumbai skyline from Marine Drive and if you happen to be in Mumbai during the monsoon season, make sure you head there during the rains. The crashing waves make it so much fun!

Elephanta Caves

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A small island two km off the shore of Mumbai in the Arabian Sea, Elephanta Caves, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site is an hour-long ferry ride away from Gateway of India. The complex consists of five Shaivite caves and a few Buddhist stupa mounds that may be dating to the 2nd century BCE, as well as a small group of two Buddhist caves with water tanks. It is divided into wings and the ‘Trimurti’ or the three-headed sculpture is one of the most important sculptures there. This cave structure has some of the world’s best rock-cut sculptures and most of the carvings here depict stories from Hindu mythology. Watch out for the monkeys though, they can be something of a nuisance on the island. The caves are closed on Mondays and possibly during the monsoon season.

Chor Bazaar

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Tucked away in the depths of South Mumbai, Chor Bazaar or Thieves Market is famous as the underbelly of the city. More of a flea market today, it is a good place to search for random goods like automobile parts, furniture, old Bollywood paraphernalia, gramophone records and a bunch of other vintage stuff. What you find depends on your ability to unearth some classics from the eclectic souveniers abounding there. Haggling comes quite naturally to these shop owners so you can get away with pretty decent bargains. This market stretches out on Mutton Street, and the shops are open from 11 am to 7:30 pm.

Bandra Worli Sealink

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The Bandra-Worli sea-link is truly a modern-day architectural marvel, that helps the choked traffic of Bombay by diverting a large part of it on a high-speed, six-lane expressway over the sea. It’s clean, it’s fast, no stopping, no two-wheelers, no people on foot, no photography. Driving down the sea-link can only be described as exhilarating. In this city of overcrowded houses, with stuck traffic and loud honking all around, a drive down this road can be the highlight of your day. Drive down this road, or get into a metered taxi and enjoy 6–7 minutes of pure, clean air as you drive above the deep Arabian Sea. It’s even better when you have the a view of the orange sky as the sun rises or sets, or the lit-up skyline of Mumbai, the city that never sleeps.

Flamingos at Sewri

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Sewri, a station on the Central Railway Harbor Line, and one of the original seven islands of Bombay has a vast expanse of mangrove mudflats that are a protected ecology. Every October onwards, until February, thousands of pink flamingoes descend upon the seas of Mumbai in Sewri, along with other rare birds like the Egret. Head to Sewri on a weekend, and watch a rare phenomena take place in front of you in one of the most unlikely of places- Mumbai, the city of cars and buildings and taller buildings.

Khotachiwadi

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A small heritage village tucked away in Girgaon, Khotachiwadi has the prettiest old style Portuguese houses in South Mumbai. They are mostly constructed out of wood, have small verandahs, and even tiny backyards. Unfortunately, a lot of these houses have been torn down in the past to make way for new constructions and now only a handful of them are still standing, so if you are in Mumbai, make sure you see these houses before they are all gone.

Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum

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The oldest museum in Mumbai, the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum houses artefacts and finds related to the cultural history of the city. Among the most interesting displays are old maps of Bombay harbour, dioramas of different parts of the city, and an old but complete warrior’s suit of chainmail.

Recipes: Pithla

Here’s another recipe from the heartlands of my home state of Maharashtra. This recipe is from the kitchens of the rustic, rural householder and is a staple of practically every Marathi household. I got this recipe from a book I have had for almost twenty years now, called Maharashtrian Cooking authored by Kumud Marathe.

Pithla is something you can make in a hurry and can be increased also just as easily. You can make it as thick or thin as you like

Pithla

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup sour yoghurt
  • 2 cups water
  • 3-4 tbsp chickpea flour or besan
  • 2 onions, thickly sliced
  • 1 tsp mustard seeds
  • 4-5 curry leaves
  • 1 green chilli, chopped
  • 1/4 tsp turmeric powder
  • 1/8 tsp asafoetida powder
  • 3-4 tbsp cooking oil
  • Coriander leaves to garnish

Method:

  • Beat the yoghurt well and mix it with the besan to make it a nice non-lumpy paste. Add water to increase it to the quantity and thickness you want, add salt and keep aside.
  • In a pan, heat the oil and when the oil is warm, add the mustard seeds. When the seeds pop, add in the chillies, curry leaves and asafoetida.
  • Now add the onions and cook till the onions are translucent and cooked.
  • Next, add the buttermilk and chickpea flour paste and let it come to a boil.
  • The more you boil this gravy, the thicker it will become. If you want it slightly thick, let it come to a boil and then switch off the flame after checking for seasoning.
  • Garnish with chopped coriander leaves and serve hot over plain rice or even Indian flatbreads.

You can call this a Maharashtrian Kadhi. For more Kadhi recipes, see Gujarati Kadhi and South Indian Mor Kozambu

Recipes: Kanda Poha

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I am surprised that I have not yet blogged and posted this dish. This dish is a staple breakfast item in my home state of Maharashtra and is so embedded into the Maharashtrian psyche that days without Kanda Poha may actually give some people withdrawal symptoms.

In our home, we don’t like to eat heavy meals for dinner, except maybe occasionally when we are dining out. So most dinners are simple, what, in other traditional homes, may be eaten for breakfast.

Last week when I prepared this for dinner, I took pictures and checked whether I had posted it or not, and it was a no, so here it goes….

Like most Indian food, every family prepares this in a different way and if you’ve come across a different recipe for this, it’s quite possible that both variants exist and thrive. Also Poha or beaten rice flakes recipes are common across India, especially in the west and south and each state, nay region or province may have their own specialty. Now add family taste differences into the mix and what you get is a recipe which will be different each time you eat it!

This particular recipe which I make has evolved over the years. I first learned it from a friend who is Maharashtrian and then played with it till it became something that my family likes. S loves this recipe as do the kids and it pops on the dinner table every few weeks. It’s not very difficult to make, most of the items will be available in your pantry. The only pre prep work you need to do is with the peanuts.

Kanda Poha

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Ingredients:

  • 1 pack poha or beaten rice flakes
  • 2 onions, chopped
  • 2 potatoes chopped into small pieces
  • 1 green chilli, chopped into small slices
  • 1 tsp mustard seeds
  • 1.5 tsps turmeric powder
  • 1 tsp oil
  • A pinch of asafoetida
  • ½ tsp sugar (optional)
  • Salt to taste
  • ½ cup peanuts
  • 2 tbsps coconut (optional)
  • 2 tbsps lemon juice
  • Coriander leaves to garnish

Method:

  • In a pan, dry fry the peanuts till they are crisp and slightly brown. When still slightly warm, using your fingers, remove as much of the skin as you can. It’s best if you can remove all the skin, but if not, it’s not the end of the world. When completely cool, using the pulse function of your blender/mixer, crush it a bit. You can make it into a fine powder if you want, but the way I like it is to have some powdered while the others are still in smaller peanut pieces.
  • Chop the onions, potatoes and chilli and keep aside.
  • In a colander, wash the beaten rice flakes and let the water drain completely. Then add a tsp of salt, the sugar and a tsp of turmeric powder and mix it well into the damp rice flakes. Use your hands to make sure all the flakes are coated. Put some of the powdered peanuts also into this mix and keep aside.
  • In a pan, heat the oil and when warm, add the mustard seeds. When the seeds pop, add the chilli and let it fry for a few minutes. Next add the remaining turmeric powder and asafoetida and stir for a couple of seconds. When the chilli is coated with the turmeric, add the onions and let it cook.
  • Once the onions are translucent, add the potatoes with some salt and let it cook well. You can add some water at this stage to help the potatoes cook. Don’t add too much water as the final dish has to be dry, just enough to help the potatoes cook and not catch the bottom of the pan.
  • When the potatoes are completely cooked, add the balance of the peanuts (or less if you don’t like too many peanuts) and let the peanuts absorb any of the water you may have added to the pan.
  • Once the water has been absorbed, add the damp poha and stir well to mix the onion/potato mixture with the rice flakes. When everything comes together well, add the optional coconut and the lemon juice and mix well.
  • Garnish with coriander leaves and serve.

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