Travel Bucket List – India: Tamil Nadu Part 5

Posted on January 22, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Please see the first part published on Wednesday before reading this post.

Kumbakonam
Kumbakonam is known as a “temple city” due to the prevalence of a number of temples here and is noted for its Mahamaham festival which attracts people from all over the country.

Kumbakonam dates back to the Sangam period and was ruled by the Early Cholas, Pallavas, Medieval Cholas, Later Cholas, Pandyas, the Vijayanagara Empire, Madurai Nayaks, Thanjavur Nayaks and the Thanjavur Marathas. It rose to be a prominent town between the 7th and 9th centuries AD, when it served as a capital of the Medieval Cholas. The town reached the zenith of its prosperity during the British Raj when it was a prominent centre of European education and Hindu culture; and it acquired the cultural name, the “Cambridge of South India”.

The name “Kumbakonam”, roughly translated in English as the “Pot’s Corner”, is believed to be an allusion to the mythical pot (kumbha) of the Hindu god Brahma that contained the seed of all living beings on earth. The kumbha is believed to have been displaced by a pralaya (dissolution of the universe) and ultimately came to rest at the spot where the town of Kumbakonam now stands. This event is now commemorated in the Mahamaham festival held every 12 years. Kumbakonam is also known as Baskarashetram[2] and Kumbam[3] from time immemorial and as Kudanthai in ancient times.

Kumbakonam is known for its temples and mathas (monasteries). There are around 188 Hindu temples within the municipal limits of Kumbakonam. Apart from these, there several thousand temples around the town thereby giving the town the sobriquets “Temple Town” and “City of temples”.

Adi Kumbeswarar Temple is considered to be the oldest Shaiva (the sect of the god Shiva) shrine in the town, believed to be constructed by the Cholas in the 7th century. The Nageswaraswamy Temple has a separate shrine for the Sun god Surya who is believed to have worshipped Shiva at this place. Adi Kumbeswarar temple, Nageswaraswamy temple and Kasi Viswanathar temple are Shiva temples in the town revered in the Tevaram, a Tamil Shaiva canonical work of the 7th–8th century. Kumbakonam has one of the few temples dedicated to the god Brahma.

Sarangapani temple is the largest Vaishnava (the sect of the god Vishnu) shrine present in Kumbakonam. The present structure of the temple having a twelve storey high tower was constructed by Nayak kings in the 15th century. It is one of the “Divya Desams”, the 108 temples of Vishnu revered by the 12 Alvar saint-poets. The Ramaswamy temple, which has scenes from the Hindu epic Ramayana depicted on its walls, was constructed by Govinda Dikshitar, the minister of successive Nayak rulers, Achuthappa Nayak (1560–1614) and Raghunatha Nayak (1600–34). He added a commercial corridor between the temple and the older Chakrapani temple, which in modern times is called Chinna Kadai Veethi, a commercial street in the town. Pilgrims from all parts of India take a holy dip once every 12 years during the Mahamaham festival, also known as the Southern Kumbh Mela in the Mahamaham tank.

You can also do the Navagraha temple pilgrimage, for the nine planets, keeping Kumbakonam as your base as all the temples are located quite close to each other and Kumbakonam. These Navagraha temples are located in the Cauvery delta region of Kumbakonam – Thanjavur. Traditionally these are Shiva temples with a shrine for one of the planets. It is believed that the planetary deities were cursed by Brahma to dwell in Vellurukku Vanam, the white wild flower jungle and were blessed by Shiva to make it their abode to devotees. The temples have six daily rituals at various times from 5:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and two yearly festivals on its calendar.

Suryanar Kovil or the temple dedicated to the Sun Lord is located to the East of Kumbakonam, 2 km from Aduthurai. Kanjanoor, the temple for Sukran or the temple for Venus, is located 3 km from Suryanar Kovil in the Aduthurai – Kuthalam road. The Thingalur temple dedicated to the Moon God or Chandran is located 35 km to the west of Kumbakonam in the Kumbakonam – Tiruvvayyaru Road. Vaitheeswaran Kovil which is the temple for Mars is located 50.5 km away from Kumbakonam on the Kumbakonam – Sirkazhi Road and 14.5 km away from Mayiladuthurai. Swetharanyeswarar Temple dedicated to Mercury is located 24 km from Mayiladuthurai and 13 km to the East of Vaitheeswaran Kovil. Ketu Stalam or the temple for the south node of the eclipse of the sun and the moon is located close to Poompuhar, 23 km to the South West of Vaitheeswarn Kovil. Alangudi is located 18 km to the South of Kumbakonam on the Kumbakonam – Mannargudi road. Rahu Stalam or the north node is located 6 km to the West of Kumbakonam on the Kumbakonam – Karaikal road and Saniswarar temple dedicated to Saturn is located 46 km further on the same road. Out of the nine temples, six are located on the northern bank of river Kaveri, while the remaining three in the southern bank.

Thanjavur
Thanjavur, formerly known as Tanjore, is an important center of South Indian religion, art, and architecture. Most of the Great Living Chola Temples, which are UNESCO World Heritage Monuments, are located in and around Thanjavur. The foremost among these, the Brihadeeswara Temple, is located in the centre of the city. Thanjavur is also home to Tanjore painting, a painting style unique to the region.

The city is an important agricultural centre located in the Cauvery Delta and is known as the Rice bowl of Tamil Nadu. The city first rose to prominence during the reign of Cholas when it served as the capital of the empire. After the fall of Cholas, the city was ruled by various dynasties like Pandyas, Vijayanagar Empire, Madurai Nayaks, Thanjavur Nayaks, Thanjavur Marathas and British Empire. It has been a part of independent India since 1947. Carnatic music was codified in Thanjavur and the art flourished during the Nayak rule in the 16th century. Bharathanatyam, a classical dance form of South India, had its major styles developed in Thanjavur.

The most visited monument in Thanjavur is the Brihadeeswarar Temple, whose construction, the historian Percy Brown described as “a landmark in the evolution of building art in South India”. Built in the 11th century by the Chola king Raja Raja Chola I (985–1014), the temple is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva. The walls of the sanctum are covered with wall paintings from the Chola and Nayak periods. The temple was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It is replicated in the Gangaikonda Cholesvarar Temple constructed by Raja Raja’s son Rajendra Chola I (1012–44).

The Thanjavur Maratha palace was the official residence of the Bhonsle family who ruled over the Thanjavur region from 1674 to 1855. It was originally constructed by the rulers of the Thanjavur Nayak kingdom and after their fall, it served as the official residence of the Thanjavur Marathas. When most of the Thanjavur Maratha kingdom was annexed by the British Empire in 1799, the Thanjavur Marathas continued to hold sway over the palace and the surrounding fort. The southern side of the third quadrangle of the palace has a 190 ft (58 m) tower-like building, called the Goodagopuram.

The Saraswathi Mahal Library, established around 1700 and located in the premises of the palace, contains over 30,000 Indian and European manuscripts written on palm leaf and paper. Over eighty per cent of its manuscripts are in Sanskrit and many of them are on palm leaves. The Tamil works include treatises on medicine, and commentaries on Sangam literature. The Rajaraja Chola art gallery is located inside the palace – it has a large collection of stone and bronze images from the ninth to 12th centuries. Most of the idols present in the gallery were collected from various temples in the Thanjavur district.

The Sivaganga Park is situated to the east of the Brihadeeswarar Temple and encompasses the Sivaganga Tank believed to have been built by the king Raja Raja Chola. It was created as a people’s park by the Tanjore municipality in 1871–72. It has a collection of plants, animals and birds and serves as a zoo for children within the city.

Sathaya Thiruvizha is the annual birthday festival of Raja Raja Chola held during October every year. Thanjavur is the base for the Tyagaraja Aradhana, a Carnatic music festival held annually during January – February at Thiruvaiyaru, located 13 km away from the city. Thanjavur painting is a major form of classical South Indian painting from Thanjavur. It dates back to about the 1600s, the period of Nayakas of Thanjavur, who encouraged art, classical dance and music literature, both in Telugu and Tamil. The art is usually a combination of raised and painted surfaces, with the Hindu god Krishna being the most popular image depicted. In modern times, these paintings have become souvenirs of festive occasions in South India, wall decors, and collectors’ items for art lovers.

Swamimalai
Swamimalai lies on the banks of river Kaveri and is one of the six abodes of the Lord Muruga.

The town has one of the six abodes of Karthikeya and the temple is fourth among the Padai Veedugal. According to Hindu mythology, Karthikeya explains the meaning of pranavam to His father Lord Shiva at Swamimalai. Hence, one can see the Karthikeya depicted as Guru (teacher) and Shiva listening as shishya (disciple) in the gopuram of the temple complex. The God is given by the name Swaminathan and Thagapan Swami (literally Father of God).

Swamimalai Bronze Icons refers to bronze idols and statues manufactured in Swamimalai. It has been recognized as a Geographical indication by the Government of India in 2008-09. During the reign of Chola empire, Raja Raja I commissioned a group of sculptors for the construction of the Brihadeeswarar Temple at Thanjavur. The sculptors helped sculpt statues for Airavatesvara Temple and later settled at Swamimalai.

Rameshwaram
Rameshwaram lies on Pamban Island which is separated from mainland India by the Pamban channel and is about 40 kilometres from Mannar Island, Sri Lanka. It is in the Gulf of Mannar, at the tip of the Indian peninsula. Pamban Island, also known as Rameswaram Island, is connected to mainland India by the Pamban Bridge.

Rameswaram is the closest point from which to reach Sri Lanka from India, and geological evidence suggests that the Rama Sethu or Adam’s Bridge was a former land connection between India and Sri Lanka.

Rameswaram is significant for many Hindus as a pilgrimage to Varanasi is considered to be incomplete without a pilgrimage to Rameswaram. The town along with the Ramanathaswamy temple is one of the holiest Hindu Char Dham (four divine sites) sites comprising Badrinath, Puri and Dwarka.

Gandhamathan Parvatham, a hillock situated 3 km to the north of the temple is the highest point in the island. There is a two storeyed hall, where Rama’s feet is found as an imprint on a chakra or wheel. The Ramarpatham Temple is located on the hillock.

The Ramanathaswamy Temple is the most notable historic landmark of the town. Located in the centre of town, the Ramanathaswamy Temple is a famous Hindu temple dedicated to the God Shiva. The temple is one of the 12 Jyotirlinga shrines, where Shiva is worshipped in the form of a Jyotirlinga meaning “pillar of light”. It is also one of the 275 Paadal Petra Sthalam temples and is glorified in hymns by the three of the most revered Nayanar saints (7th century Saivite saints), Appar, Sundarar and Tirugnana Sambandar. The temple in its current structure was built during the 12th century by the Pandya Dynasty. The temple has the longest corridor among all Hindu temples in India. The breadth of these columned corridors varies from 17 to 21 feet with a height of 25 feet. Each pillar is sculpted in the Nayak style as in Madurai Meenakshi Amman Temple. The contribution of the kings of the Sethupathy dynasty (17th century) to the temple was considerable. Large amounts of money was spent during the tenure of Pradani Muthirulappa Pillai towards the restoration of the pagodas which were falling into ruins – the Chockattan Mantapam or the cloistered precincts of the temple was reconstructed by him.

There are sixty-four Tīrthas or Theerthams (holy water bodies) in and around Rameswaram. According to the Skanda Purana, twenty-four of them are important. Of the 24, 14 are in the form of tanks and wells within the precincts of the temple. Bathing in these tanks is a major aspect of the pilgrimage to Rameswaram and is considered equivalent to penance. Twenty-two of the tanks are within the Ramanathaswamy Temple. The foremost one is called Agni Theertham, the sea (Bay of Bengal). Jatayu, King of the Birds, who fought in vain with the demon-king Ravana to save Sita, is said to have fallen down at Jadayu Theertham as his wings were severed. Villoondi Theertham literally translates to ‘buried bow’, is located around 7 kilometres from the main temple on the way to Pamban. It is believed to be the place where Rama quenched the thirst of Sita by dipping the bow into the sea water. Other major holy bodies are Hanuman Theertham, Sugreeva Theertham and Lakshmana Theertham.

Dhanushkodi is the southernmost tip of the island and houses the Kothandaramaswamy Temple dedicated to Lord Rama. Though Dhanushkodi was washed away during the 1964 cyclone, the temple alone remained intact. It is 18 km way from the centre of the town and can be reached by road. A popular belief is that, Dhanushkodi is where Vibishana, a brother of Ravana surrendered before Rama in the the Hindu mythological epic Ramayana.

Ramanathapuram, Tirupullani, Uthirakosamangai, Sethu are the nearby attractions to Island of Rameshwaram. Beautiful beaches at Olaikuda, Danushkodi and Pamban are other attractions apart from the religious point of view. Scuba diving and migratory birds watching during winter are the activities here.

The best time to visit Rameshwaram is July to August & November to March while the peak season is July to August & February to March.

Madurai
Situated on the banks of the River Vaigai, Madurai is also referred to as Athens of the East and Temple Town. Madhurai is the oldest continually inhabited city in the Indian peninsula, with a history dating all the way back to the Sangam period of the pre-Christian era. It has been inhabited since at least the 3rd century BCE, the third largest city in the state and is considered as the cultural capital of Tamil Nadu.

Madurai is closely associated with the Tamil language, and the third Tamil Sangam, a major congregation of Tamil scholars said to have been held in the city. The recorded history of the city goes back to the 3rd century BCE, being mentioned by Megasthenes, the Greek ambassador to the Maurya empire, and Kautilya, a minister of the Mauryan emperor Chandragupta Maurya.

Madurai was the seat of power of the Pandyan Empire. It was built by the Pandyan king Kulasekhara and was the capital city of the great Pandya kings of South India. It was later ruled by Cholas, Later Pandyas, Madurai Sultanate, Vijayanagara, Madurai Nayaks and finally British. Pandyas and Nayaks contributed enormously to the development of Meenakshi Amman Temple and Madurai city.

Madurai is an important industrial and educational hub in South Tamil Nadu. The city is home to various automobile, rubber, chemical and granite manufacturing industries. The city has a number of historical monuments, with the Meenakshi Amman Temple, Koodal Alagar Temple and the Tirumalai Nayak Palace being the most prominent.

Meenakshi Amman Temple, known as Madurai Meenakshi is the biggest landmark of Madurai. It is one of the largest temples in India. The temple has a stunning architecture and a significant testimony for Vishwakarma Brahmins for their master architecture in sculpting this temple. The core city of Madurai is built parallel to the streets of Madhurai Temple. The temple is dedicated to Meenakshi and her consort, Sundareswarar. The complex houses 14 gopurams or gateway towers and two golden sculptured shrines over the sanctum of the main deities. The temple is a significant symbol for Tamils and has been mentioned since antiquity in Tamil literature, though the present structure was built between 1623 and 1655 CE.

The Sangam period poet Nakkeerar is associated with some of the Tiruvilayaadal episodes of Sundareswarar – that are enacted as a part of temple festival traditions even today.

The Koodal Azhagar Temple is a Vishnu temple located in the city. It has idols of the Navagraha (nine planet deities), which are otherwise found only in Shiva temples. The deity, Kallazhagar, is believed to be the brother of Meenakshi, the presiding deity at the Meenakshi temple and the festival calendars of these two temples overlap during the Meenakshi Thirukalyanam festival.

Tirupparankunram is a hill 8 kilometres away from Madurai where the Hindu god Murugan is said to have married Deivanai. The temple is the first among the Six Abodes of Murugan and is one of the most visited tourist spots in Madurai, next only to the Meenakshi Amman Temple.

The people of Madurai celebrate numerous festivals, including Meenakshi Tirukkalyanam, the Chittirai Festival and the Car Festival. The annual 10-day Meenakshi Tirukalyanam festival, also called Chittirai festival, is celebrated during April–May every year and attracts one million visitors. Legend has it that the Hindu god Vishnu, as Alagar, rode on a golden horse to Madurai to attend the celestial wedding of Meenakshi (Parvati) and Sundareswarar (Shiva). Before Alagar reaches the wedding, the marriage will be completed and he does not cross the vaigai river. During this day there will be huge crowd will be present near the river too see Lord Alagar in the river. During the Cradle festival, the festive idols of Meenakshi and Sundareswarar are taken in procession to a mirror chamber and set on a rocking swing for nine days. Avanimoolam festival is celebrated during September when the 64 sacred games of Shiva, thiruvilayadal, are recited. The Thepporchavam festival, or float festival, is celebrated on the full moon day of the Tamil month Thai, which falls around January – February, to celebrate the birth anniversary of King Thirumalai Nayak. The decorated icons of Meenakshi and her consort are taken out in a procession from the Meenakshi Temple to the Mariamman Teppakulam. The icons are floated in the tank on a raft decked with flowers and flickering lamps.

There are probably more temple towns in the state, but if I start to list more, I could go on and on as this state brims with temples and other religious places of worship.

Travel Bucket List – India: Tamil Nadu Part 4

Posted on January 20, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

Tamil Nadu is well known for its beautiful and serene temples. There are many towns and cities which are famous as temple towns which is what we are going to see in today and Wednesday’s posts.

Kanchipuram
Kanchipuram, also known as Kanchi or Kancheepuram, is a temple city located on the banks of the Vegavathy river. The city has been ruled by the Pallavas, the Medieval Cholas, the Later Cholas, the Later Pandyas, the Vijayanagara Empire, the Carnatic kingdom, and the British, who called the city “Conjeeveram”. Historically, Kanchipuram was a centre of education and was known as the ghatikasthanam, or “place of learning”. The city was also a religious centre of advanced education for Jainism and Buddhism between the 1st and 5th centuries. It is the headquarters of the Kanchi matha, a Hindu monastic institution believed to have been founded by the Hindu saint and commentator Adi Sankaracharya, and was the capital city of the Pallava Kingdom between the 4th and 9th centuries.

Hindus regard Kanchipuram to be one of the seven holiest cities in India, the Sapta Puri. According to Hinduism, a kshetra is a sacred ground, a field of active power, and a place where final attainment, or moksha, can be obtained. The Garuda Purana says that seven cities, including Kanchipuram are providers of moksha. The city is a pilgrimage site for both Saivites and Vaishnavites and has close to 108 Shiva temples.

The Ekambareswarar Temple in northern Kanchipuram, dedicated to Shiva, is the largest temple in the city. Its gateway tower, or gopuram, is 59 metres or 194 ft tall, making it one the tallest temple towers in India. The temple is one of five called Pancha Bhoota Stalams, which represent the manifestation of the five prime elements of nature; land, water, air, sky, and fire. The Ekambareswarar temple represents earth.

The Kailasanathar Temple, dedicated to Shiva and built by the Pallavas, is the oldest Hindu temple in existence and is declared an archaeological monument by the Archaeological Survey of India. It has a series of cells with sculptures inside. In the Kamakshi Amman Temple, goddess Parvati is depicted in the form of a yantra, Chakra or peetam (basement). In this temple, the yantra is placed in front of the deity. Adi Sankara is closely associated with this temple and is believed to have established the Kanchi matha after this temple.

The Muktheeswarar Temple, built by Nandivarman Pallava II (720–796) and the Iravatanesvara Temple built by Narasimhavarman Pallava II (720–728) are the other Shiva temples from the Pallava period. Kachi Metrali – Karchapeswarar Temple, Onakanthan Tali, Kachi Anekatangapadam, Kuranganilmuttam, and Karaithirunathar Temple in Tirukalimedu are the Shiva temples in the city revered in Tevaram, the Tamil Saiva canonical work of the 7th–8th centuries.

Kumarakottam Temple, dedicated to Muruga, is located between the Ekambareswarar temple and Kamakshi Amman temple, leading to the cult of Somaskanda (Skanda, the child between Shiva and Parvati). Kandapuranam, the Tamil religious work on Muruga, translated from Sanskrit Skandapurana, was composed in 1625 by Kachiappa Shivacharya in the temple.

Varadharaja Perumal Temple, dedicated to Vishnu and covering 23 acres, is the largest Vishnu temple in Kanchipuram. It was built by the Cholas in 1053 and was expanded during the reigns of Kulottunga Chola I (1079–1120) and Vikrama Chola (1118–1135). It is one of the divyadesams, the 108 holy abodes of Vishnu. The temple features carved lizards, one platted with gold and another with silver, over the sanctum. Clive of India is said to have presented an emerald necklace to the temple. It is called the Clive Makarakandi and is still used to decorate the deity on ceremonial occasions.

Ashtabujakaram, Tiruvekkaa, Tiruththanka, Tiruvelukkai, Ulagalantha Perumal Temple, Tiru pavla vannam, Pandava Thoothar Perumal Temple are among the divyadesam, the 108 famous temples of Vishnu in the city. There are a five other divyadesams, three inside the Ulagalantha Perumal temple, one each in Kamakshi Amman Temple and Ekambareswarar Temple.

Tiru Parameswara Vinnagaram is the birthplace of the azhwar saint, Poigai Alvar. The central shrine has a three-tier shrine, one over the other, with Vishnu depicted in each of them. The corridor around the sanctum has a series of sculptures depicting the Pallava rule and conquest. It is the oldest Vishnu temple in the city and was built by the Pallava king Paramesvaravarman II (728–731).

The Kanchi Matha is a Hindu monastic institution, whose official history states that it was founded by Adi Sankara of Kaladi, tracing its history back to the 5th century BCE. A related claim is that Adi Sankara came to Kanchipuram, and that he established the Kanchi mutt named “Dakshina Moolamnaya Sarvagnya Sri Kanchi Kamakoti Peetam” in a position of supremacy, namely Sarvagnya Peetha, over the other mathas (religious institutions) of the subcontinent, before his death there. Other historical accounts state that the mutt was established probably in the 18th century in Kumbakonam, as a branch of the Sringeri Matha, and that it declared itself independent.

Another mutt which was famous in ancient times was the Upanishad Bramham Mutt, located near Kailasanathar temple, Kanchipuram. It has the Mahasamadhi of Upanishad Brahmayogin, a saint who wrote commentaries on all the major upanishads in Hinduism. It is said that the great Sage, Sadasiva Brahmendra took to sanyasa at this mutt.

Buddhism is believed to have flourished in Kanchipuram between the 1st and 5th centuries. According to a popular tradition, Bodhidharma, a 5th/6th-century Buddhist monk and founder of Shaolin Kung Fu was the third son of a Pallava king from Kanchipuram. However, other traditions ascribe his origins to other places in Asia. Buddhists institutions from Kanchipuram were instrumental in spreading Theravada Buddhism to the Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand who in return spread the religion to the incoming Burmese and Thai people. A number of bronzes unearthed at Kurkihar (Apanaka Vihara, near Gaya in Bihar) mention that the majority of the donors were from Kanchi, indicating that Kurkihar was a major center for the visitors from Kanchi during 9th to 11th century,

Kanchipuram had been a major center of Jainism and is associated with several famous Jain Acharyas like Samantabhadra and Akalanka. It is thought that Jainism was introduced into Kanchipuram by Kunda Kundacharya (1st century). The Pallava kings, Simhavishnu, Mahendra Varman and Simhavarman (550–560) followed Jainism, until the advent of Nayanmars and Azhwars during the 6th and 7th centuries. Mahendravarman I converted from Jainism to Hinduism under the influence of the Naynamar, Appar, was the turning point in the religious geography. The two sects of Hinduism, Saivism and Vaishnavism were revived under the influence of Adi Sankara and Ramanuja respectively. Later Cholas and Vijayanagara kings tolerated Jainism, and the religion was still practised in Kanchi. The original set of the Jina Kanchi institution Mutt was in Kanchipuram. Its original site is now represented by the Trilokyanatha/Chandraprabha temple at Thiruparthikundram. It is a twin Jain temple that has inscriptions from Pallava king, Narasimhavarman II and the Chola kings Rajendra Chola I, Kulothunga Chola I and Vikrama Chola, and the Kanarese inscriptions of Krishnadevaraya. The Jina Kanchi Mutt was later shifted to Melsithamur in the 16th century. There exist many historical Jain sites in the vicinity of Kanchipuram in several villages that still has some Jain population.

The city is well known for its hand woven silk sarees and most of the city’s workforce is involved in the weaving industry.

Tiruvannamalai
The town of Tiruvannamalai is named after the central deity of the Annamalaiyar Temple, Annamalaiyar. Located on the foothills of Annamalai hills, Tiruvannamalai has been ruled by the Pallavas, the Medieval Cholas, the Later Cholas, Hoysalas, the Vijayanagar Empire, the Carnatic kingdom, Tipu Sultan, and the British. It served as the capital of the Hoysalas. The town is built around the Annamalaiyar Temple like other Nayak capitals.

The Annamalaiyar Temple is the most prominent landmark of Tiruvannamalai. The temple complex covers an area of 25 acres, and is one of the largest temples in India. It houses four gateway towers known as gopurams. The temple has numerous shrines, with those of Annamalaiyar and Unnamulai Amman being the most prominent. The temple complex houses many halls; the most notable is the thousand-pillared hall built during the Vijayanagar period. The Annamalaiyar temple is one of the Pancha Bhoota Stalas, or five Shiva temples, with each a manifestation of a natural element: land, water, air, sky or fire. In Annamalaiyar temple, Shiva is said to have manifested himself as a massive column of fire, whose crown and feet could not be found by the Hindu gods, Brahma and Vishnu. Aathara Stala are Shiva temples which are considered to be personifications of the Tantric chakras of human anatomy. The Annamalaiyar temple is called the Manipooraga stalam, and is associated with the Manipooraga chakra. The temple is revered in Tevaram, the Tamil Saiva canon and classified as Paadal Petra Sthalam, one of the 276 temples that find mention in the Saiva canon.

The Karthigai Deepam festival is celebrated during the day of the full moon between November and December, and a huge beacon is lit atop the Annamalai hill. The event is witnessed by three million pilgrims. On the day preceding each full moon, pilgrims circumnavigate the temple base and the Annamalai hills in a worship called Girivalam, a practice carried out by one million pilgrims yearly. Apart from other temples, there are 8 important shiva temples facing 8 important directions on the (side) path of Girivalam. All the Shivlings of these 8 temples are believed to have formed naturally.

Tirumalai is an ancient Jain temple complex in the outskirts of Tirvannamalai that houses three Jain caves, four Jain temples and a 16 feet high sculpture of Neminatha dated from the 12th century and the tallest Jain image in Tamil Nadu.

Chidambaram
Also known as Thillai, Chidambaram’s name comes from the Tamil word Chitrambalam which means the small hall or stage of wisdom. According to legend, it was once a forest of thillai, a mangrove species of trees. There was once a small shrine on the banks of a tank. The saints Vyagrapada and Patanjali are said to have worshipped at this shrine, now called Thirumoolanathar. It is believed that their penance attained perfection with the revelation of Shiva’s cosmic dance by Lord Nataraja on the auspicious Thai Poosam day.

The town has been ruled, at different times, by the Pallavas until 9th century, Medieval Cholas, Later Cholas, Later Pandyas, Vijayanagar Empire, Marathas and the British. The town is known for the Thillai Nataraja Temple, and the annual chariot festival held in the months of December–January (In the Tamil month of Marghazhi known as “Margazhi Urchavam”) and June to July (In the Tamil month of Aani known as “Aani Thirumanjanam”)

The Chidambaram Nataraja Temple was built during the 11th century and is one of the most celebrated Shaivite Temples in South India. Lord Nataraja is the family deity of Vikrama Chola (1128 CE) and his successors. The golden hall of dance was built and covered with gold plates by Jatavarman Sundra Pandya. Chidambaram Temple has great religious as well as historic and cultural significance. This is one of the Panchabhoota Stalas signifying the five elements of wind (Kalahasti), water (Tiruvanaikka), fire (Tiruvannamalai), earth (Kanchipuram) and space (Chidambaram). Lord Vishnu as Lord Govindaraja Perumal is worshipped in the same temple complex. Brahmotsavam, Ani Thirumanjanam, Thai Poosam and Arudra Dharshan are some of the Chidambaram temple festivals that attract large crowds from far and nearby places. Natyanjali Dance Festival is a major festival held in the month of February. Many eminent dancers give their performances during this festival.

Thillai Kaali Amman Temple, Pichavaram, Sattanathar Temple, Bhuvanagiri, Parangipettai, Annamalai University, the Kollidam River and Poompuhar are the other attractions in and around Chidambaram.

The best time to visit Chidambaram during July and between October to March while the peak season is July and December to February. The Chidambaram Natraja temple is open from 6 am to 12:30 pm and from 4:45 to 9 pm.

Vaitheeshwaran Kovil
Vaitheeswaran Kovil or Pullirukkuvelur is a Hindu temple dedicated to the Lord Shiva. Shiva is worshipped as Vaidyanathar or Vaitheeswaran meaning the “God of healing” and it is believed that prayers to Vaitheeswaran can cure diseases. Vaitheeswaran is a Tamil derivative from vaidya (Doctor) and Ishvara (God/Master). The presiding deity is Sri Vaidyanathan, facing towards West whereas East side is the common one. He is the God of Healing. When pronouncing in Tamil, it sounds like “vaideeswaran”. It is one of the nine Navagraha (nine planets) temples and is associated with the planet Mars (Angaraka). The temple and town are located 27 km from Chidambaram and 110 km from Thanjavur.

The holy waters of the Siddhamirtham tank within the temple complex contains nectar, and a holy dip is believed to cure all diseases. The temple is revered by the Tevaram hymns of 7th-century Saiva nayanars – Tamil saint poets and is also classified as a Paadal Petra Sthalam (temple revered by the nayanars).

Devotees take a holy dip in the temple tank before worshipping Vaitheeswaran in the temple. It is also a local belief that dissolving jaggery in the waters cures skin diseases. The practise of jamming salt and pepper in front of the temple mast and the pot near the temple tank is also followed. Unlike other temples in South India, where each shrine has a priest, each priest in the temple associates themselves with the devotees and perform worship on their behalf. The holy soil rounded with ash is treated as medicine and believed to cure all the diseases. It is a practice to purchase silver-plated images of body parts to put in the Hundi or the vessel for offering to fix ailments one might be having. The Veeraraghavaswamy temple at Thiruvallur is considered the Vaishnavite temple equivalent of healing abilities of the presiding deity to that of the Saivite Vaitheeswaran Kovil. The annual festival or Brahmotsavam is celebrated during January/February.

Travel Bucket List – India: Tamil Nadu Part 3

Posted on January 17, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

After the major cities in the state, it’s time to head for the hills. Tamil Nadu has some fabulous hill stations where you can go to relax your mind. Fantastic weather coupled with gorgeous views, these hill stations (some of them not so popular and so not very crowded) should be in your bucket list the next time you visit this state.

Ooty
The Queen of the Hills as Ooty or Udhagamandalam is known is the capital of the Nilgiris or ‘Blue Mountain’ district. A land of picturesque picnic spots & lakes, it was a popular summer and weekend getaway for the British during colonial days. It is situated at an altitude of 7,440 feet above sea level. Ooty Lake, Botanical Garden and Rose Garden are among the must include places in your Ooty tour packages.

Ooty was originally a tribal land occupied by the Todas along with other tribes. The Nilgiri territory came into possession of East India Company as part of the ceded lands, held by Tipu Sultan in 1799. In 1818, Wish and Kindersley, Assistant and Second Assistant to Collector of Coimbatore visited this spot and submitted their experience report to the Collector of Coimbatore John Sullivan. John Sullivan later began the construction of his bungalow at Dimbhatti the first European dwelling on the hills. Ooty served as the summer capital of the Madras Presidency and other small kingdoms, much visited by British during the colonial days. Its stunning beauty and splendid green deep valleys inspired the British to name it Queen of Hill Stations. Sullivan later developed the town and encouraged the establishment of tea, chinchona, and teak trees.

The establishment of numerous tea estates made Ooty famous. Lofty mountains, dense forest, sprawling grasslands and miles and miles of tea gardens greet the visitors on most routes.

Once regarded as the summer headquarters of the East India Company (and for a very good reason), Ooty, also known as Udagamandalam, is a hill station in Tamil Nadu which serves as a very popular tourist destination for anyone looking for a picturesque place to relax and unwind. Ooty is nestled amidst the Nilgiri hills at an altitude of 2,240 meters above sea level and enjoys a favourable climate all year round.

The toy train, known as Nilgiri Mountain Railway that runs from Mettupalayam to Ooty is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must be experienced. The train route wends its way through many hair-raising curves and fearful tunnels and chugs along beside deep ravines full of verdant vegetation, gurgling streams and tea gardens. The train route was developed by the British engineers in 1908, covering 42 kilometers length with 108 curves, 16 tunnels and 250 bridges. The Nilgiri Mountain Railways has the steepest track in all of Asia, and it is one of the best train rides you will ever have the chance of experiencing.

Apart from pleasant weather, Ooty Lake, Botanical Garden, Rose Garden, Wenlock Downs, Pine Forest, and Emerald Lake are the popular Ooty sightseeing places. The annual Tea and Tourism Festival (Jan) and Summer Festival (May) attract crowds in huge numbers.

The best time to visit this beautiful hill station is from October to June. In these months, the temperature remains somewhere around 25°C which offers a pleasant weather.

Kodaikanal
Often referred to as the ‘Princess of Hill stations’, Kodai as it is fondly called, is one of the popular places to visit in summer. It is situated at an altitude of about 7,000 feet on the southern tip of upper Palani hills.

The earliest residents of Kodaikanal were the Palaiyar tribal people. Modern Kodaikanal was established by American Christian missionaries and British bureaucrats in 1845, as a refuge from the high temperatures and tropical diseases of the plains. In the 20th century a few elite Indians started relocating to this enchanting hill station and it started becoming popular among nature lovers.

Kodaikanal is not as extensively commercialized like Ooty and it offers a pleasant experience to tourists with relatively less crowd. Apart from the pleasant weather, Kodaikanal has several tourist attractions like Kodai Lake, Bryant Park, Coaker’s Walk, Bear Shola Falls, Silver Cascade, Pillar Rocks, etc. The hills offer beautiful views all around, especially from the Coaker’s Walk.

The best time to visit Kodaikanal is April to June during the summer. Monsoon from September to October also offers a different experience.

Yercaud
Located in the Shevaroy Hills of Tamil Nadu is another popular hill station, Yercaud. With the surrounding areas being dry, Yercaud provides a pleasant break with its greenery and pleasing weather. The greenery is part natural cover and part plantations.

Commonly called ‘Ooty of the Poor’, this region has a history dating back to the time of the British. Located at an altitude of 4970 feet, Yercaud is known for its vast expanses of coffee plantations. Oranges, coffee, pears, etc are grown in abundance here. The hill station is a popular travel destination in Tamil Nadu and offers various attractions ranging from viewpoints to various waterfalls. One of the many highlights is the summer festival that takes place in May. It is dedicated to Lord Servarayan, the supreme god of the ranges and gives visitors a glimpse into the rich heritage of this region.

Yercaud town got its name from the Yercaud Lake located at its centre. In Tamil, Yeri means lake and Kaadu means forest. Stone-age implements have been found from the ancient shrine located near Shevaroy Hills, which is about 5 km from the Yercaud Lake. Sir Thomas Munroe, the erstwhile governor of Madras Presidency in 1842 developed this place. David Cockburn, the Scottish collector of Salem district, between 1820 and 1829, was called the ‘Father of Yercaud’ because he helped in the development of the resources of the Shevaroy and for introducing the cultivation of coffee, pears and apple. The Tea plantation has been introduced in 1840s by Dr.Wallich on the property of G.F.Fischer.

Kalliyur Falls, Lady’s Seat point, Bear Cave, Emerald Cave and Pagoda Point are the highlights of this delightful hill station.

The best time to visit Yercaud is between October to June.

Coonoor
One of the most beautiful and serene hill stations you will come across in the country, Coonoor is the second largest hill station in the wonderful Nilgiri Hills of the Western Ghats. Located around 20 km from Ooty, at an altitude of 1,850 meters, Coonoor is beautiful with the many tea estates and long-winding roads. Old colonial bungalows in the tea estates add to the charm of Coonoor.

Make sure you visit Sim’s Park, Dolphin Nose lookout point, Ketti Valley, Hidden Valley and Lamb’s Rock when you are in Coonoor.

The best time to visit Coonoor is between October to March.

Yelagiri
A quaint little hill station located in Vellore, Yelagiri is spread a little over 30 square kilometres, and at a height of over 1100 metres above sea level. The ideal destination for nature lovers, Yelagiri is a town that is completely off the beaten tourist trail, lending it a quieter and much more peaceful vibe compared to other more famous hill stations nearby. Originally belonging to the Zamindar family of Yelagiri, the hill station began to gain popularity since the colonial rule, when it was used by the British as a summer getaway. Ever since then, it has been one of the hidden gems of South India, replete with rocky hills and natural scenic beauty, making it the perfect place to take a break from the fast-paced city life.

Yelagiri is one of those typical, silent places that seem ordinary on the outside but are more and more startling as you discover it. It has all the features of a great hill station, be it sunset points or lakes and parks. But the beauty of Yelagiri lies in all the more that it has to offer. Being one of the lesser known hill-stations in Tamil Nadu, the place is rarely overcrowded. The surroundings are pristine and the forests are home to some rare species of flora and fauna. The honey that is locally available is considered to be one of the purest and tastiest varieties.

Yelagiri offers its tourists some beautiful places like the Jalagamparai falls, sweeping orchards and rose garden at its various nature parks, Punganur Lake, Swami Malai hills and the Velavan temple among others.

Yelagiri has a moderate climate therefore travelers love to visit the city all through the year. But still, the best season to visit Yelagiri is the months from November to February.

Bellikkal
Bellikkal is one of those places where you can completely relax, without having to worry about a ‘to-do’ list for your vacations and yet experience mountains that will steal your breath away. Instead of having a hundred places to offer, it will take you by its beauty, calmness and serenity.

Bellikkal is a small village in the south of Sigur Plateau in Tamil Nadu. Located at an altitude of 5,500 feet or 1,700 meters, it is only around 15 km from Ooty, yet untouched commercially as yet. This small and elusive hill station is as beautiful as those in the Himalayas, and has yet managed to retain its old world charm.

The monsoon season between July to September is the best time to visit Bellikkal, however Bellikkal’s weather is always great and so this as yet undiscovered hill station can be visited all year round.

Bellikkal Lake, Bison Valley and Kalhatti Falls are the top tourist spots in Bellikkal.

Travel Bucket List – India: Tamil Nadu Part 2

Posted on January 15, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

After Chennai, let’s visit some of the other major cities and towns in the state.

Coimbatore:
Also known as Kovai and Koyamuthur, Coimbatore is the second largest city in Tamil Nadu. It is located on the banks of the Noyyal River and surrounded by the Western Ghats. In addition to being the second largest city in Tamil Nadu after Chennai, it is also the 16th largest urban agglomeration in India. The city is one of the largest exporters of jewellery, wet grinders, poultry and auto components; the “Coimbatore Wet Grinder” and the “Kovai Cora Cotton” are recognised as Geographical Indications by the Government of India.
Coimbatore was part of Kongu Nadu during the Sangam period between c. 1st and the 4th centuries CE and was ruled by the Cheras as it served as the eastern entrance to the Palakkad Gap, the principal trade route between the west coast (Kerala) and Tamil Nadu). Coimbatore was located along the ancient trade route that extended from Muziris to Arikamedu in South India. The medieval Cholas conquered the Kongu Nadu in the 10th century CE. The region was ruled by Vijayanagara Empire in the 15th century followed by the Nayaks who introduced the Palayakkarar system under which Kongu Nadu region was divided into 24 Palayams. In the later part of the 18th century, the Coimbatore region came under the Kingdom of Mysore and following the defeat of Tipu Sultan in the Anglo-Mysore Wars, the British East India Company annexed Coimbatore to the Madras Presidency in 1799. The Coimbatore region played a prominent role in the Second Poligar War (1801) when it was the area of operations of Dheeran Chinnamalai.

So what can you see in Coimbatore? There’s the Marudamalai Murugan Temple, a hilltop temple dedicated to God Murugan and considered as one of the seven houses of Lord Murugan in South India. Another temple, the Perur Pateeswarar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, was built by Karikala Chola. The temple has statue of Nataraja, Arasambalavanar Shrine and shrine dedicated to Ganesha and is also a popular sightseeing spot in Coimbatore. Another popular place is the Adiyogi Lord Shiva Statue at the Isha Yoga Center, which is the largest bust sculpture in the world, weighing around 500 tonnes and standing at 112 feet tall at the foothills of the Velliangiri Mountains. The Velliangiri Mountains, which are located close to the Tamil Nadu Kerala border are also known as Kailash Mountain of the South India and is part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve.

You can also visit the Siruvani Waterfalls which is located 35km from Coimbatore, the Singanallur Lake which is one of the nine large lakes fed by the canals of the Noyal river as well as the Tamil Nadu Agricultural University Botanical Garden of Coimbatore located near Maruthamalai. This garden is spread over 300 hectares and is home to many varieties of plants and birdlife.

An interesting museum in Coimbatore is the Gedee Car Museum, the only classic car museum of its kind located in the city. The museum has a collection of unique cars not to be seen anywhere else in India. The cars are a private collection of G D Naidu Charities, a social trust founded by late Sri. G D Naidu of Coimbatore, who was a renowned inventor, educationalist and philanthropist of his time.

The best time to visit this under-rated city is between July to March.

Tiruchirappalli
Tiruchirappali or Trichy is the fourth largest city in Tamil Nadu and is located on the banks of the Cauvery River. The history of Tiruchirappalli begins in the 3rd century BC, when it was under the rule of the Cholas. It was a stronghold of the early Cholas which later fell to the Pallavas. But the Pallavas never really managed to retain control of this strategic city and lost it to the Pandyas several times. Trichy continued to be in the possession of Cholas until the decline of the empire after which it became a Vijayanagara stronghold. Trichy came under the rule of Nayaks of Madurai after the collapse of Vijayanagara, later to the Marathas of Tanjore, the Nawabs of Carnatic, the French and finally the British. Trichy flourished under Madurai Nayaks and prospered to be the city that it is today. The city played a critical role in the Carnatic Wars (1746-1763) between the British and the French East India companies.
Tiruchirappalli is internationally known for a brand of cheroot known as the Trichinopoly cigar. The city is very popular for its cigars, handloom saris and stone-studded jewelry, Pith models and cheroots. According to the National Urban Sanitation Policy (2010), Tiruchirappalli was one of the ten cleanest cities in India.

The city is an important educational centre in the state and houses nationally recognised institutions. The presence of a large number of energy equipment manufacturing units in and around the city has earned it the title of “Energy Equipment and Fabrication Capital of India”.
Tiruchirappalli is home to numerous historical monuments and temples that attract tourist and pilgrims from all parts of the country throughout the year. Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple is one of the most famous temples in South India, constructed in the Dravidian style of architecture. Built across an area of 156 acres, this temple is dedicated to Ranganatha, a reclining form of Hindu deity, Lord Vishnu. This temple lies on an island formed by the twin Rivers Cauvery and Kollidam. Though the temple existing since 2nd century BC, the archaeological inscriptions are available only from the 10th century CE. During the invasion of Malik Kafur in 1310-1311, the idol of the deity was stolen and taken to Delhi. In a daring exploit, devotees of Srirangam ventured to Delhi and enthralled the emperor with their histrionics. Moved by their talent, the emperor was pleased and returned the statue of the deity of Srirangam. During second invasion in 1323 AD, the deity was taken away before the invading troops reached Srirangam. The deity was kept in the hills of Tirumala Tirupati for 6 decades until their reinstatement in 1371. It is believed that 13,000 devotees laid down their lives in the fierce battle to protect the temple. This temple is the biggest functioning Hindu temple in India. The vimana over the sanctum of the temple is made up of gold and so is protected by an electric fence. The 236-feet Rajagopura (tower) is the tallest temple tower in India. There is also a royal temple tower, which covers a base area of 32500 sq. ft and has a height of 196 ft. It also comprises a hall containing 1000 pillars. Intricate sculptures are the most attractive part of the hall. The Hall was built during the Vijayanagara period (1336-1565). The second enclosure contains the shrine of Ranganayaki, an incarnation of Goddess of Lakshmi.

Another famous and very popular Trichy landmark is the Rockfort Ganpati Temple. The temple derives its name from its unique building style. The temple structure comprises a huge rock, which is believed to be the oldest rock in the world, even older than The Himalayan Mountains. After climbing 344 steps, the devotees reach the main temple area. The temple has two sub parts- the Thayumanaswamy, which is dedicated to Lord Shiva and the Pillayar, which is dedicated to Lord Ganesha. The origins of the temple are traced back to the 7th century. The Shiva temple contains the Lingam form of the Lord.

At the Brahmapureeswarar Temple, the Lord enshrined is in the form of a Swayambu Lingam as he is believed to have changed the destiny of Lord Brahma. Predominantly a Shiva temple, it is local myth that one can change his own fate of he seeks blessings in this temple. Lord Brahma has a separate shrine where he sits in a meditative pose in his signature lotus flower. Goddess Parvathi is also worshipped in the temple.

The Thiruvanaikoil Temple, also known as Jambukeshwarar Temple is one of the holiest places in Tamil Nadu, India. It is one of the Panchabhoota Temples (signifying the 5 elements of nature) and represents the water element (Neer). It is situated on an island surrounded by rivers Cauvery and Coleroon. The temple is also called “Appu Sthalam” and the Shiva Lingam here is called “Appu Lingam”.

Located at a distance of only 15 km from Tiruchirapalli, the Kallanai Dam is built across the flowing River Kaveri. It spans over 1079 feet and is over 66 feet wide! This ancient dam was originally constructed about 2000 years ago, and it is the oldest functional water regulator structure in the entire country. It may not have much else to offer, but the mesmerising view is surely going to be worth taking a detour. The dam also serves as an inspiration for modern-day dams due to the excellent engineering behind it. Also known as Grand Anicut, the enormous dam is famous not only because it is pertinent to the living of thousands of households around it, but also because of its unmatched scenic beauty.

Puliyancholai Waterfalls are situated at the base of Kolli Hills in Tiruchi. The mesmerizing waterfalls are a popular site of tourism and receives a huge influx of visitors. The waterfalls are truly a spot of peace and tranquility and offers solitude like nowhere else. Another majestic falls in the Kolli hills range are the Agaya Gangai Waterfalls which fall from a massive height of 300 feet, The waterfalls can be reached through a trek or by climbing almost a 1000 steps. The waterfalls are best visited during monsoons.

Tiruppur
Tiruppur or Tirupur is the fifth largest urban agglomeration in Tamil Nadu and is located on the banks of Noyyal River. It has been ruled at different times, by the Early Pandyas, Medieval Cholas, Later Cholas, Mysore Kingdom and the British. It is situated at the centre of the South Indian Peninsula and is a major textile and knit wear hub contributing to 90% of total cotton knit wear exports from India.

Make sure you don’t miss the Thirumoorthy Dam & Temple when you visit Tiruppur. Located on the Thirumoorthy hills, the Thirumoorthy Temple, Thirumoorthy Dam and Panchalingam waterfall are Tirupur’s most famous sightseeing locations. The name Thirumoorthy signifies the three Hindu deities namely, Lord Vishnu, Lord Shiva and Lord Brahma. Right outside the temple is a huge rock which is believed to have rolled down during a flood and has a sculpture of a Jain priest carved upside down. At just a short walk of about 1.2 miles (2 km) you will reach the Dam where you can spend some time boating. While you are at it, trek 1.8 miles (3 km) uphill to see the exotic Panchalingam falls.

Maintained by the Architectural Society of India (ASI), the ancient Sugriveswar temple is believed to have been built between the 10th-12th century on the banks of the Noyyal River. Also known as the Sukreeswarar Temple, it is situated at Sarkar Periyapalayam on the outskirts of Tiruppur city. The temple consists of two towers – Vimanam for Lord Shiva and Amman. The Amman temple boasts neatly carved stone architecture from the Pandya dynasty while the Vimanam Shiva temple reflects the architectural style of the Chola Dynasty. This temple is renowned for having two Nandi statues in front of the Shiva Temple, five Lingas outside the temple, one of which is invisible and the main gate opens in the south direction instead of the east.

The Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary also known as the Annamalai Wildlife Sanctuary, is one of India’s unexplored terrains. It is a vast expanse, encompassing different ranges, including grasslands, plateaus, deep valleys, farms, waterfalls, national parks, teak forests and water reservoirs. It also contains several endangered species and has various peaks over 6,500 feet (1981 meters).

Locally known as the Karunaiyaaththaal Temple, Avinasilingeswarar Temple and Avainasiappar Temple, the Avinashi temple is dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva and Goddess Parvati. Reflecting architecture reminiscent of ancient India this temple was built in the Chola dynasty.

The best time to visit Tiruppur is between September and January.

Tirunelveli
Located on the west bank of the Thamirabarani River, the district of Tirunelveli is where both sides of my grandparents migrated to Mumbai in the early forties.

Also known as Nellai and during British rule as Tinnevelly, Tirunelvi’s downtown is located on the west bank of the Thamirabarani River; its twin Palayankottai is on the east bank. Palayamkottai is called as the Oxford of the south India as it is a hub of many schools, colleges and many important government offices. Tirunelveli is an ancient city, and is more than 2000 years old. The city is believed to be an ancient settlement of great importance. It has been ruled at different times by the Early Pandyas, the Medieval and Later Cholas, the later Pandyas, the Ma’bar , the Vijayanagar Empire, the Madurai Nayaks, Chanda Sahib, the Karnatic kingdom and the British. The Polygar War, involving Palaiyakkarars led by Veerapandiya Kattabomman and forces of the British East India Company, was waged on the city’s outskirts from 1797 to 1801.

When in Tirunelveli, don’t miss the Nellaiappar temples, the origins of which this temple dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva are found in the ancient texts of the Puranas. The gopuram of Nellaiappar Temple is said to be built by Muluthukanda Rama Pandiyan and the rest of the Nindraseer Nedumaran. The two temples were linked in 1647 AD by Thiru Vadamalaiappa Pillaiyan by building the chain Mandapam. The Dravidian architecture is well exemplified in this temple and the musical pillars are one of the amazing aspects of the design aesthetics of the temple.

Another ancient temple is the Sankaranarayanan koil, another temple dedicated to Lord Shiva which is said to be 900 years old. The main deity here is the Sankaranarayanan which is a combined form of Shiva and Vishnu. The gopuram is a massive dome which is 135 feet high and has 9 tiers. The temple is best visited during the festival of Adi Tapas which is celebrated between the months of July and August.

Located in the temple village of Krishnapuram, the Venkatachalapathy Temple is one of the major temples in the city. The temple site although is considered to be 9000 years old the current structure dates back to being 700 years old. The temple is adorned with a brightly coloured gopuram and is one of the few temples dedicated to Venkatachalapathy, a form of the Hindu deity Lord Vishnu.

The small town of Papanasam is one of the most popular picnic spots in Tirunelveli. Large acres of lush green paddy fields surround the town and the town is a home to 108 types of medicinal herbs that are not found anywhere in the world. The various dams, rivers and waterfalls here are considered to be major tourist attractions and are a home to several species of migratory birds. The Manjolai Hills are a must visit to experience amazing views of the surrounding landscapes.

The Kutralam falls also is also a favourite of the people of Tirunelvi. More details about this in a separate post.

The best time to visit Tirunelveli is between October and February

Travel Bucket List – India: Tamil Nadu Part 1

Posted on January 13, 2020 by memoriesandsuch

When I visited some cities and towns in Tamil Nadu last year during my holiday, I was totally blown away by the art and architecture in this state. This state, which literally means “Land of the Tamils” is my ancestral state. Both sides of my grandparents moved from villages here to what was then known as Bombay to earn a living. I have not visited much of this state, but after this trip, it has become part of my bucket list.

Tamil Nadu lies in the southernmost part of the Indian subcontinent and is bordered by the union territory of Puducherry and the South Indian states of Kerala, Karnataka, and Andhra Pradesh. It is bounded by the Eastern Ghats on the north, by the Nilgiri Mountains, the Meghamalai Hills, and Kerala on the west, by the Bay of Bengal in the east, by the Gulf of Mannar and the Palk Strait on the southeast, and by the Indian Ocean on the south. The state shares a maritime border with the nation of Sri Lanka.

The region was ruled by several empires, including the three great empires – Chera, Chola and Pandyan empires, which shape the region’s cuisine, culture, and architecture. The British Colonial rule during the modern period led to the emergence of Chennai, then known as Madras, as a world-class city. Modern-day Tamil Nadu was formed in 1956 after the reorganisation of states on linguistic lines. The state is home to a number of historic buildings, multi-religious pilgrimage sites, hill stations and three World Heritage sites.
Tamil Nadu is the tenth largest Indian state by area and the sixth largest by population. The economy of Tamil Nadu is the second-largest state economy in India in gross domestic product and the state has the sixth highest ranking among Indian states in the human development index. It was ranked as one of the top seven developed states in India based on a “Multidimensional Development Index” in a 2013 report published by the Reserve Bank of India. Its official language is Tamil, (which is also my mother tongue) which is one of the longest-surviving classical languages in the world.

Chennai
As with other states, we will start our journey from the capital city of Chennai, which was earlier called Madras and is often called the ‘Cultural Capital of India’. Chennai is the fourth largest metropolis in the country with a population of over 8 million. The present city was founded in 1639, by Sir Francis Day, who arrived with East India Company. The British East India Company established a fort and a trading post at the small fishing village of Chennai. Located on the Coromandel coast of Bay of Bengal, Chennai is as dynamic as it is immersed in tradition, a major city and industrial centre.

The region around Chennai has served as an important administrative, military, and economic centre since the 1st century AD. It has been ruled by various South Indian dynasties, notably the Pallava, the Chola, the Pandya, and Vijaynagara. The area where the present city exists was awarded to British by Damerla Chennapa Nayaka who a general under Vijayanagaras ruled from Chandragiri, near Tirupathi. The name Chennai believed to be derived from the Chennakesava Perumal Temple present in the city.

The city is famous for its beaches, museums, parks, temples and several historical places around the city. The major tourist places in Chennai include Marina Beach, the second largest urban beach in the world, Govt Museum, Parthasarathy Temple, Kapaleeswaraar Temple, San Thome Cathedral, etc. There are several other attractions in the vicinity of Chennai like Elliot Beach, VGP Golden Beach, Mahabalipuram, Pulicat Lake, Muttukadu, etc. Kanchipuram, the famous historical & pilgrimage town is situated close to Chennai. Chennai’s skyline is famous for its towering skyscrapers, but the heart of Chennai has an old-world charm to it that refuses to be overshadowed.

One of the most visited Indian cities by foreign tourists, Chennai houses almost 2467 heritage buildings within the metropolitan area – highest within any city limit in the country. The Mylapore and Triplicane areas are famous for their beautiful, serene temples and delicious cuisine, while North Chennai areas like Sowcarpet are dotted with shops selling everything under the sun, including clothes, bicycles, food and electronic items.
Vestiges of the British rule like the stunning Madras University and Queen Mary’s College, the Ripon Building and the museums are lovely examples of the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture that the metropolitan is known for. The modern metropolis of Chennai – a buzzing city of glorious beaches, monuments standing as a testament to the time, and the people who have preserved age-old traditions – is sure to sneak its way into your hearts.
Some of the places which you must not miss in your trip to Chennai include:

Marina Beach: Marina Beach is a natural urban beach along the Bay of Bengal. The beach is stretched out to a distance of 13 kilometres making it the longest natural urban beach in the country, second largest in the world and also the most crowded beach in India with almost 30,000 visitors a day. With a white sandy shore that looks as though extending to infinity, the landscape of Marina Beach is a mesmerising and serene sight to behold. The beach has a primarily sandy terrain and is dotted with plenty of merry-go-rounds and shops selling souvenirs. Watching the sun crawl upwards into the sky or even disappear into the ocean from the beach, is an awe-striking and enchanting experience.

Elliot’s Beach: Elliot’s Beach aka “Besant Nagar Beach” or “Bessie” is located in Besant Nagar, Chennai. It forms the end-point of the Marina Beach shore and is named after Edward Elliot (who was once the Chief Magistrate, Superintendent of Madras and Governor of Chennai during the British times). It has the Velankanni Church and the Ashtalakshmi Kovil in the vicinity. The mesmerising beach is one of the cleanest beaches in the city of Chennai. Located towards the south of Marina Beach, an incredibly calm and tranquil place, it does not offer much activity hence, is an ideal spot for long walks. Moreover, the beach is perfect for the ones who want to soak their feet in the splashing sea water and lose themselves entirely in the arms of nature. Elliot’s Beach is quite famous among the tourists as well as locals. In the colonial times, it was a place limited to white people. The beach is often visited by travellers for sunbathing, relaxing and visiting the famous ancient monuments nearby. It is usually less crowded than the famous Marina Beach and hence, preferred by the travellers. During the evening hours, one can spot various youngsters roaming around the beach as this beach offers the perfect retreat, away from the city life of metropolitan.

Government Museum: The Government Museum was established in 1851 and is the second oldest museum in the country after the Indian Museum in Kolkata. Situated in Egmore suburb of Chennai, it is built in the Indo-Sarcenic style and houses a rich collection of the works of Raja Ravi Varma.

Dakshinachitra Museum: The Museum, is one of the living-history museums in India. It stores in itself great works of architecture, crafts, performing arts, and lifestyles that belong to South India. The museum has its vision and mission to promote the cultures of South Indian states by making them more engaging and enjoyable for its viewers. The heritage museum is home to 4,220 artefacts and 1,000,000 pictures. Visiting here will give you an in-depth knowledge of south Indian heritage. Developed in the form of a village, it showcases the traditional lifestyle of South Indians. It is a collection of 18 authentic houses, each having its own contextual exhibition. These homes are purchased, broken down, transported and lastly reconstructed by professional artisans or Stapathis who belong to the places from where the houses are bought. Moreover, Dakshina Chitra itself means the ‘house of south’. Do visit the Dakshinachitra Museum to explore and learn about the life and history of South India which is also a very good starting point for your south Indian adventures.

Arignar Anna Zoological Park: Perhaps one of the most popular picnic spots in the city, the Arignar Zoological Park or Vandalur Zoo is an amazing place to discover the flora and fauna of the region. A favourite weekend spot with both children and adults alike, the Arignar Zoo is situated at a distance of 32 kilometres from Chennai city. It is one of the largest zoo of its kind in South East Asia and is sprawled over an area of 1260 acres. In addition to having an extensive collection of endemic and exotic animals, visitors can experience the wild first hand with a trip to safari parks where lions and deer can be easily spotted. Housing as many as 138 different species of organisms, this destination is every nature lover’s paradise. The zoo is also home to a variety of animals such as Himalayan brown bear, lion, tiger, elephant and Indian civit cat.

Fort St. George: The origin of the great white structure of Fort St. George is inextricable from the history of the city of Chennai itself. Popularly called the ‘White Town’, the sole purpose of establishing the massive fort compound was to establish a British stronghold in the Coromandel Coast and the rest of south India. With Fort St. George as a British headquarter, it was easier to develop the many small towns and villages in Tamil Nadu. The now bustling city of Chennai grew up around this fort during this time, under the British-conferred name Madras. The fort itself is the first British garrison settlement in India. It also houses the first British official residential complex, the Clive House which was the home of the Commander-in-chief and the orchestrator of British India, Lord Robert Clive. St Mary’s Church inside the fortress is also the oldest Anglican Church, not only in India but among all the landmasses east of Suez. The grand fort is now protected by the Archaeological Survey of India and the station of Tamil Nadu Government. The administrative branches and legislative assembly are housed in here today. However, the church and a museum are open to the public. The building which houses the museum used to be the location for the Madras Bank since 1795. However, after independence, it is serving as a large collection house of more than 3600 artefacts dating back to the entire period of the British rule – weapons, letters, coins, silverware, ceremonial dresses, medals, some personal items of the residents of the fort and many more.

Santhome Church: The significance of San Thome Church is unparalleled in the history of Christianity in India. The church, which was once constructed as a mausoleum in memory of Saint Thomas, has now grown to be a Basilica, as stated by the then Pope in 1956. San Thome Church is among the only three in the world that house the tombs of one of Christ’s original disciples. The other two are St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City and Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Galicia, Spain. Beneath the towering white structure of the basilica minor lies the last remains of the saint, who once used to be one of the twelve apostles of Christ and came over to India in 52 AD to spread the religion. He is considered to be the patron saint of Christianity in India, as he converted a large population of locals in Kerala and Tamil Nadu with his wise words and preaching, and formed the community which now calls themselves Syrian Christians.

Kapaleeswarar Temple: A holy shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Kapaleeshwarar temple is located in the heart of Chennai’s traditional district of Mylapore. Originally built by the mighty Pallavas, Portuguese explorers destroyed the temple and it was rebuilt around the 16th century by the Vijayanagar kings. A visit to this temple will be an experience enriched with a glimpse into Tamil religious culture and the lovely architectural combination of the two styles – Dravidian and Vijaynagari, complete with towering Gopurams. There is also a sacred tank on the western side. The temple has quite a few legends about it, which are till date upheld by the authorities in the form of sculptures and inscriptions. In fact, to commemorate the myth of Goddess Parvati worshipping Shiva at this place as a fowl, there is a couple of peahen and peacock kept as a pet inside the temple premises. The regal temple also remembers the Tamil Shaivite saint poets Nayaars and has shrines for each one of them. All the 63 idols of the poets are paid due respect in the Brahmotsav festival that takes place every year somewhere between mid-March to mid-April.

Vadapalani Murugan Temple: A highly frequented places of worship for Hindus in Chennai, the Vadapalani Murugan Temple has its roots fixed in numerous legends and myths, especially about its founder and first priest Annaswamy Naikar. He had a dream about this deed he must do for his good as well as the benefit of the society, and thus he started worshipping Lord Murugan at his home instead of trying to find him elsewhere. This small shrine was later transformed into the colossal premise with multiple deities that you can see today. The temple is known for helping devotees finding solutions to life’s problems. People come here seeking answers to their marital, academic and professional problems. Many devotees claim that worshipping here has assisted them to get over the trouble and find peace in life. It is also believed that worshipping Lord Murugan here is as pious as praying to him at the original Palani temple. If someone is unable to visit the original abode, they can pay their respects here, and Murugan will bless them all the same. Vadapalani Murugan Temple has a rich history and an ornate architecture and is also enriched with people’s faiths from all-over the country. If you visit the temple on any of the days of the special festivals, you will get to see the popularity Murugan has in this place.

Ashtalakshmi Temple: Located a few meters from Elliot’s Beach or Besant Nagar Beach, the Ashtalakshmi Temple where the main deity is Ashtalakshmi or the Goddess of Wealth and Knowledge resides here and blesses everyone who visits the temple to offer their prayers. The continuous sound of the ocean waves echo in the temple complex and instantly inculcate an aura of peace. The Ashtalakshmi Temple complex is built to worship eight avatars of Goddess Lakshmi namely Wealth, Success, Prosperity, Bravery, Courage, Knowledge, Food and Offspring. It was built when Sri Maha Periyaval or the Sage of Kanchi Mutt, Sri Chandrasekara Saraswati Swamigal had wished for it to be constructed. The followers willingly agreed and laid the foundation with utmost devotion. Goddess Lakshmi is known for granting Ashtama Siddhi and Astha Iswaryam which mean eightfold achievements and wealth respectively.

Parthasarathy Temple: The Parthasarathy Temple, located in Triplicane area of the city, is a structure more than 1000 years old, standing in the heart of the bustling city. Dedicated to different avatars of Lord Vishnu within the many shrines of the temple, it attracts thousands of Vaishanvite followers from all across the country. The temple gets its name from the charioteer version of Lord Krishna when he drove the vehicle of Arjuna in the war. Parthasarathy Temple is classified as one of the 108 Divya Desams or holy shrines dedicated to Vishnu, as mentioned in the canonical Tamil literature penned down by the Alvar saints of the 6th-9th century, known as Divya Prabandha. The temple houses five different forms of Vishnu – Narasimha, Rama, Gajendra Varadaraja, Ranganatha and Krishna. In Tamil, they have different names for these. There are numerous additional shrines as well, enclosed within the 8th-century Dravidian architecture.

Marundeeswarar Temple: The magnificent Marundeeswarar Temple, in Tiruvanmiyur, near Chennai has the temple deity Shiva in the form of Marundeeswar or Aushadeeswarar, the God of Medicines. A fine specimen of Dravidian architecture, this temple is a must visit for anyone visiting Chennai. Glorified in the 7th-8th century by Nayanars (Saivite Saints), Tirugnana Sambandar, and Appar, the temple was expanded by the Chola Kingdom in the 11th century. Moreover, given the name, Marundeeswarar Temple has been a place of worship especially for people with diseases and those facing various problems with their health. The prasadam here is a mixture of sacred ash, water, and milk which is believed to cure any ailments. One must visit the temple to encounter the miraculous power it is said to have. Amongst the many legends associated with the temple, one of them explains why Lord Marundeeswarar is known as he is because he is said to have taught the great Sage Agastya about a magical medicine. The temple is also known for its one and a half ft. self-manifested Shivalinga. It also contains the statues of Lord Vinayaka and Lord Muruga. Furthermore, it hosts many festivals such as Shivrathri, Skanda Sashti, and Vinayaka Chaturti. Hence, the temple even has a festive aura all around the year.

Mylapore: The oldest and most culturally enriched neighbourhoods of Chennai and located in the southern end, the heart of the city lies Mylapore. The area precedes the birth of Chennai or Madras, as the British named it, by at least some 1500 years. The city had already seen a lot of eventful history pass by even before the British stepped on this land. Mylapore is also very much traditionalist to its core and boasts of many temples, churches and historical monuments. At the same time, it is also stepping up to match the modern world with shopping malls, tree-lined beautified avenues and other attractions to meet the expectations of the urban tourists. Mylapore has a native name as well. It is called Thirumayilai by the locals, which is taken from a Tamil word meaning “the land of the peacock’s scream”. It is an undeniable ode to a large number of peacocks which once roamed the land of Mylapore before commercialisation took over. The presence of peacocks is evident from the architectural designs of the Kapaleeswarar Temple or the San Thome Church – two ancient sites of the neighbourhood. Mylapore has its mention in several accounts by writers, poets, explorers and folklores that have roots in the ancient time. From European colonising groups to explorers like Marco Polo to Tamil Saivite poets, there are praises of this old city and its splendour everywhere. A visit to the important sites in Mylapore as well as a look around the neighbourhood itself should be on every traveller’s list who is visiting Chennai. In one word, Mylapore can be called the nerve centre of the city.

T Nagar: One of the busiest neighbourhoods in Chennai, T Nagar is also the most crowded one. It serves as a commercial and economic hub, as well as a residential area. T Nagar is essentially a complete commercial crux within Chennai in itself. It does not have many attractions, but you will come across a plethora of retail shops lined up on every main road and arterial streets. The neighbourhood mostly trades in traditional south Indian textiles and gold jewellery shops. Usman Road is famous for its stretch of jewellery shops, while the Pondy Bazaar area deals with a number famous apparel stores selling silk saris and other garments, as well as roadside shops. Other than that, there are a few parks and religious places, which you can pay a visit to if you feel like. There are some parks too for a peaceful afternoon stroll. The T Nagar area grew up in between the years 1923 and 1925. It was constructed by the Madras Presidency Government of the Raja of Panagal as a part of the Madras Town Planning Act, 1920. The main area was named after the then party leader Sir P. Theagarya Chetty, and the streets and localities after different dignitaries. After the Long Tank, which formed the western boundary of the city was drained out in 1923, the Mambalam Zamindari situated to its west relinquished. From its southern part, the neighbourhood was carved out.

Memories and Such

Memories of a very ordinary life

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