How Not to Travel the World: Adventures of a Disaster-Prone Backpacker – Lauren Juliff
I had no life experience, zero common sense and had never eaten rice. I suffered from debilitating anxiety, was battling an eating disorder and had just had my heart broken. I hoped by leaving to travel the world I would be able to heal myself.
Instead, Lauren’s travels were full of bad luck and near-death experiences. Over the space of a year, she was scammed and assaulted, lost teeth and swallowed a cockroach. She fell into leech-infested rice paddies, was caught up in a tsunami, her motorbike’s brakes failed and she experienced a very unhappy ending during a massage in Thailand. It was just when Lauren was about to give up on travel that she stumbled across a handsome New Zealander with a love of challenges…
Secunderabad Known as Hyderabad’s twin city, Secunderabad was established in 1806 as a British cantonment and is named after Sikandar Jah, the third Nizam of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. Although both the cities are together referred to as the twin cities, Hyderabad and Secunderabad have different histories and cultures, with Secunderabad having developed directly under British rule until 1948, and Hyderabad as the capital of the Nizams’ princely state of Hyderabad. Geographically divided from Hyderabad by the Hussain Sagar Lake, Secunderabad is today no longer a separate municipal unit and has become part of Hyderabad’s Greater Hyderabad Municipal Corporation with both cities collectively known as Hyderabad and together form the sixth-largest metropolis in India.
Following the dissolution of the Chalukya empire into four parts in the 11th century, the areas around the present-day Hyderabad and Secunderabad came under the control of the Kakatiya dynasty, whose seat of power was at Warangal. Secunderabad is also where the then Mughal emperor Ahmad Shah Bahadur was defeated in 1754 by the Maratha Confederacy. The area around Secunderabad changed hands between various rulers, and the area was part of Nizam’s Hyderabad by the 18th century.
Modern Secunderabad was founded as a British cantonment after Nizam Asaf Jah II was defeated by the British East India Company. He was then forced to sign the 1798 Treaty of Subsidiary Alliance to get the favour of the British troops camped in the village of Ulwul, northeast of the Hussain Sagar Lake. In 1803, Nizam Sikandar Jah, the third Nizam of Hyderabad, changed Ulwul’s name to Secunderabad after himself and the city was formed in 1806 after the order was signed by the Nizam allotting the land north of Hussain Sagar to set up the British Cantonment.
The twin cities are separated by the man-made Hussain Sagar Lake, which was built during the reign of the Qutb Shahi dynasty in the 16th century. Unlike Hyderabad, the official language of Secunderabad was English and the city was exempted from customs duty on imported goods, thus making trade very profitable. After the First War of Indian Independence of 1857, the construction of a 7-metre-high wall was started at Trimulgherry and completed in 1867. Originally constructed in 1860 as the country house of the British Resident at Hyderabad, the Residency House is now known as the Rashtrapati Nilayam, the official retreat of the President of India.
First formed in 1945, the Secunderabad Municipal Corporation was merged with Hyderabad Corporation to form a single municipal corporation in 1960 and today, Secunderabad is part of the Hyderabad district. Because of the presence of different communities, Secunderabad has historically been a cosmopolitan city and used to be referred by locals as Lashkar, which means the armed forces and the city’s culture reflected the same.
Rashtrapati Nilayam, or Residency House, is a presidential retreat for the President of India’s southern sojourn. Spread over an area of 92 acres, the mansion occupies 35 acres with the remaining 80% filled with lush green lawns, fragrant flower gardens and vegetation. It was originally built by Nizam Nasir-ud-Dauhla, the fourth ruler of the Asaf Jahi dynasty and taken over by the British during their colonial rule. During the Nizam’s reign, it used to be the official residence of the Chief Military Officer and was known as the Residency during the British colonial rule. After Hyderabad became part of the Indian Union, it was renamed Rashtrapati Nilayam and every Indian President has stayed there at least once a year. The single-story white building is divided into three wings – the Presidential Wing, the Family Wing and the ADC Wing. The 20 rooms in the three wings include a cinema, the State Dining Hall, a morning room, the Durbar Hall and the ADC Dining room. Standing about 25 feet tall, the kitchen is connected to the dining hall through an underground tunnel to restrict staff interference and noise. The building is equipped with enough staff and a guest house to accommodate 150 people. There are tour guides available who brief visitors about the geography and history of the Nilayam. Entry to Rashtrapati Nilayam is exclusive, however, recently it was made open to the public from 01 to 10 January with visiting hours from 10 am to 5 pm with last entry at 4 pm and there is no entry fee.
The 120 feet high Secunderabad Clock Tower is built on an area of 2.5 acres and has been around since colonial times. Centrally located, the clock tower was designed by the then Nizam of Hyderabad with the clock on top of the tower donated by Dewan Bahadur Seth Lachmicharan Ramgopal and was renovated recently
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An embodiment of the Indo-European culture, the Paigah Palace was built by Sir Vicar-ul-Umra in 1900 as a gift for the sixth Nizam of Hyderabad Mir Mahbub Ali Khan. Paigah was a title that meant grandeur and the high rank was given to nobles who were second to the Nizams. The palace sits on a four-acre area and is an opulent two-storied neo-classical building with a grand portico, semicircular arches, Corinthian columns and deep arcaded verandas on all four sides which face both inward and outward with a spectacular view of the courtyard. The palace today can be rented for functions. The construction of the palace started in the 1880s along with two other palaces called the Devdi Nasir Nawaz Jung palace and the Vikhar Manzi and construction was completed in 1900. Today, the palace is divided into three parts. One part is a residential area where the Paigah royals still live. The second part is converted into a club, and the third part is converted into a ceremonial place where religious ceremonies take place. When one steps into the palace, one will see a magnificent ceiling which is twenty-two feet tall on the ground floor and twenty-six feet tall on the first floor. The palace has four halls and more than twenty rooms and is protected from extreme weather by its twenty-four-inch-thick insulated wall. The palace has arches with three beautiful windows with floral designs intricately carved on the top of the walls on both floors. A delicately carved wooden staircase leads to the second floor of the palace. A new four storied building was added to the palace in 1999 with landscaping done a few years ago.
The Kandalokya Oxygen Park is a 75-acre park with hundreds of fruit trees and medicinal plants and tranquil spots. A hub for picnics, yoga lessons, picnics, occasional or weekly meetings and school visits, the park attracts many to seek solace and meditate. The Butterfly Garden is surrounded by greenery with a statue of a yellow butterfly with a seat attached to it which is known to be a selfie spot. A massive tortoise placed beside a lake known as the Tortoise Lake is eye-candy for children who try and climb on it. The 2.2 km long jogging and walking track is surrounded by trees and the Canopy Walk is a 226-meter long fenced pathway with trees. The Gazebo is a seating arrangement that is often used as a picnic spot. One of the trees has been carved into a structure resembling Groot from Guardians of the Galaxy which is also very popular. A children’s favourite is the spiral stairway leading to a treehouse providing fantastic views of the park. There are also two areas promoting learning in nature that have been equipped with the necessary classroom paraphernalia of blackboards, chairs and tables. The Zipline, which is a rope connected from one end of the park to the other provides an over-the-top experience. The fee to book a ride from the rope is INR 50. The park has an entry fee of INR 15 for adults and INR 10 for children from 5 to 12 years and also monthly and annual membership passes available. The park is open daily from 6 am to 6 pm.
Located in the city’s outskirts, the Shamirpet Deer Park was built in 1971 during the rule of Nizams. Spread over an area of 54 acres, the park is home to a wide array of animals, including many species of deer seen in their natural habitat. Blackbuck and Chital Deer are the main wildlife attractions with the Shamirpet Lake located in the proximity of the park. Also known as the Jawahar Deer Park, it is maintained by the government of Telangana. The Park is best explored by taking a walk. The Park is divided into two areas – the visitors’ area and the core area with tourists only allowed in the Visitors’ area. There is also a watchtower and a viewpoint that gives gorgeous views of Shamirpet Lake. Other activities that can be done in the park include boating, trekking and bouldering. The ideal trekking time is between 5 and 11 am. The park is open from 9 am to 5 pm every day except Mondays and has an entry fee of INR 10 for those above 6 and INR 5 for the others.
Sprawling over an area of 116 hectares and called one of the urban lung spaces of the twin cities, the Bhagyanagar Nandanavanam Deer Park is a nature conservation park that houses a wide range of flora and fauna, prominent among them being deer. Other than wildlife creatures, the park offers well-laid cycling tracks, an elevated canopy walkway, a watchtower to facilitate bird watching, wildlife photography and more. Park remains open for both, morning walkers and tourists. The walking hours are between 5 and 9 am while visiting hours are between 11 am and 6 pm. The Park is open on all days of the week and entrance tickets are INR 15 for adults and INR 10 for children between 5 and 12.
Located in the heart of Secunderabad, the Shamirpet Lake is an artificial lake built during the reign of the Nizam of Hyderabad. During the winter month, flamingos and pelicans flock here and it is best visited between November to February.
The Fox Sagar Lake also called the Jeedimetla Chevuru or Kolla Chevuru is the second largest lake in Secunderabad. This 120-year-old man-made lake has a maximum depth of 33 feet and was linked to the Hussain Sagar Lake by a tributary of the Musi river. Kolla Chevuru has a stone structure shaped like a dome called the pump set which is led through by an iron bridge that looks like a watchtower with a tomb and has 1897 inscribed in it. The view from there is beautiful, led through a narrow muddy road and is most visited during dusk and dawn. What was once a beautiful lake has turned into a dump yard in recent years and because of encroachment, from a famous picnic spot, it has now become the second most polluted lake in the twin cities. The lake which once spread over 290 acres now covers only 126 acres. However, WWF, in collaboration with the Telangana State Special Protection Force, began a cleaning camp in 2017 which is still ongoing.
Also known as the Oora Cheruvu, Kapra Lake’s natural beauty is spread over an area of 113 acres. Autumn is the best time to visit the lake which is believed to have been one of the important sources of water when Nizam-ul-Mulk ruled over the Hyderabad state in the early 18th century. Edulabad Lake was constructed in the 16th century and is often referred to as the Lakshminarayana Cheruvu. A favourite birdwatching and camping spot as well as a sunrise and sunset point its five sq km area acts as a natural habitat for a varied species of birds and is home to a recorded 152 species of birds. The best time to visit the lake is in winter due to the pattern of bird migration. However, pollution in the lake poses a problem but the lake is surrounded by lush green fields. Also called the Ramanthapur Lake, Pedda Cheruvu was once highly polluted with weeds, debris and plastic. However, in 2018 the lake sprang back to life after the Government and an NGO purified the water, the water retention capacity was improved, and the lake was beautified with various plants. The lake has a catchment capacity of about 68.97 sq km and a cumulative flow of 8,860 cusecs. As there is no road that links to the lake, a temporary road is under construction to make it easier to reach the lake. Pedda Chevuru which means Large Lake in Telugu is a natural lake that was discovered in 1897 during the rule of Mir Mahaboob Ali Khan, the 6th Nizam of Hyderabad.
Safilguda Lake is a local favourite for morning walks, jogging and meditation. There is a small island in the middle of the lake, called the Nadimi Bird Island which is covered in thick timber that attracts many migratory birds. There is also a park adjacent to the lake known as the Safilguda Lake Park. Since the boundary of the lake is similar to that of the Tank Bund, it is also popularly known as the Mini Tank Bund. Despite the area of only 5 acres, the lake has a rich biodiversity, high vegetation and many migratory birds visiting it throughout the year. Alwal Lake is a scenic artificial lake about 9 km from the twin cities and is extremely popular among those who enjoy fishing.
Telangana’s best-kept secret, Narsapur Forest is hidden away near the tiny village of Narsapur, about 47 km north of Secunderabad. Considered to be a popular getaway, the forest abounds in natural beauty and sprawls over 30 sq km with the highlight of the forest a cosy lake tucked away in the heart of the forest where one can just sit and relax or spend time with loved ones having a picnic. Other than monkeys, the forest also is home to many birds and butterflies. There are several ponds, rock formations and flower beds here.
The Wargal Saraswati temple, otherwise called the Sri Vidya Saraswati Temple, is located in a hillock. The construction of the temple began in 1998 and is currently being maintained by the Kanchi Sankara Mutt. The main goddess here is Goddess Saraswati and the temple attracts many to pray for their children’s education and career. The temple also houses a Veda pathshala or school within its premises. The temple is open between 6 am to 12:30 pm and then from 4 to 7:30 pm, Mondays to Thursdays and from 6 am to 2 pm and between 4 to 7:30 pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
About 200 years old, the Sri Ganesh temple is one of the famous temples in Telangana. The main deity is Lord Ganesha, and apart from the main deity, there are six other sannathis dedicated to various gods and goddesses namely Lord Shiva, Sri Navagraha, Sri Subramanya Swamy, Sri Anjaneya, Sri Uma Maheshwari, RahuKetu and the Maha Ganapathi Mandapam. It is a belief that the idol of Lord Ganesha was discovered in 1824 by the Madras Regiment of Sepoys while digging a well. Later, the temple was built and the idol of the Lord was placed as the main deity. The idol is a beautiful structure of the Lord posing with his right arm on his thigh, another hand holding the Ankusham, his left hand placed on the trunk and the fourth hand holding a Damarakam with a snake. The Temple is crowned with a huge tomb, traditionally called the Gopuram which has intricate carvings on them. The structure of the temple and the placement of the idols are based on the Agama Sastra. The Rathothsavam or the wooden chariot in the temple is another major attraction that is used during Ganesh Chathurthi when three idols from the temple take their place in the chariot and are carried around the city till the tank and brought back after the other idols are immersed. The temple is open daily from 5:30 am to 1 pm and then between 4 to 8:30 pm.
The Ujjaini Mahankali Temple is a 191-year-old temple that is illuminated during July and August for the festival of Mahankali Ammari Jathra with electric lights and decorated with garlands, buntings and festoons. Goddess Mahankali’s stone idol has four hands carved on it, each of which holds a Sword, a Damaru, a spear and an amrut vessel. She is seated in the Padmasana pose and covered in a layer of silver with Vendi Kavacham. Beside Goddess, Mahankali resides another Hindu deity called Goddess Manikyaladevi. According to a myth, In 1813, there was a cholera epidemic in present-day Secundrabad and many lives were lost. Suriti Appaiah, the Doli bearer who belonged to the military battalion, took upon himself to seek the blessings of the Goddess and rid people of their suffering. He went to the Mahankali temple in Ujjain and asked Goddess Kali to cure people of the epidemic misfortunes. He offered his devotion in the form of a temple that he built after reaching Secunderabad. Soon, people were healed and came to the temple to give their thanks. He set up a stone idol of Goddess Kali and worshipped her. The temple is open from 6 am to 12 noon and from 4 to 9 pm all days except Fridays when it’s open from 6 am to 1 pm and 4 to 10 pm.
The Nagamma Temple is one of the oldest temples in the area with intricately carved idols and ancient architecture. The temple is dedicated to Goddess Nagamma, a snake deity whom devotees believe will satisfy desires and reduce the issues with their horoscope. The temple, also known as the Naga Devata Temple, can be traced back to the period of British rule and was originally a small place of worship for locals. The construction of the grand temple that exists today, was commenced in the 1960s and was completed in 1970. Several strategically positioned smaller temples surround the Nagamma Temple. The temple displays South Indian influences in its design, featuring a recently incorporated marriage hall; ancient stone pillars from the Ujjain Mahankali Temple which are covered in intricate carvings of significant Hindu deities; a traditional prayer hall; life-like idols of snakes and associated gods and goddesses. There is also a tower-like structure known as a Vihmana, attached to the temple which showcases mythology related to the God of snakes or the Nag Devata through detailed embellishments. The temple is open from 6 am to 12:30 pm and then in the evenings between 5 to 9 pm.
The Subrahmanya Swamy Temple is dedicated to Lord Subramanyeshwara Swamy. The temple also has idols of Lord Shiva, Lord Bhaktanjaneya Swamy, the Navagrahas, a Shiva Linga, Lord Ganesha, Lord Dattatreya Swamy and Lord Sai Baba among others. The main porch of the temple, often referred to as a mandapam is supported by sturdy pillars fashioned out of stone and features an enormous banyan tree, strategically situated at the northern end of the temple which is a region dedicated to the Navagrahas, the planet deities. Dating back 300 years, the temple is surrounded by vast groves of banyan trees, and is also why the temple is known as Marri trees. On Fridays, the temple is open from 7 am to 11:30 pm while on other days, it is open from 7 am to 11 pm.
The Keesaragutta Temple is situated on the hill of Keesaragutta and is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his companions Bhavani and Shivadurga. Lord Laxmi Narsimha and Lord Rama with his wife Sita have different shrines dedicated to them. A huge pristine Hanuman idol stands right beside the temple. The Temple has a Veda Pathshala where the students learn shlokas, rituals and Hindu scriptures. There are no records as to when the temple was built, but there is a fascinating story leading to the formation of the temple. Legend has it that Lord Rama wished to absolve his sins for killing Ravana, a Brahmin, he decided to establish a shiva linga on the beautiful hill of Keesaragutta. Lord Rama ordered Lord Hanuman to bring a shiva linga from Varanasi. Lord Hanuman was a little late in arriving with the Shivalinga and the auspicious hour was close by so Lord Shiva himself brought a Shivalinga to be installed. Hence the Shivalinga is Swayambhu or self-manifested and is called Ramalingeswara, which means Shivalinga established by Rama. Devastated that he couldn’t reach in time to provide Shivalinga, Hanuman threw them in the valley and even today many Shivalings can be seen scattered around the temple. Seeing this, Lord Rama placated Hanuman and promised him that he would be the first God worshipped in the temple and also named the hill after Hanuman, Kesargiri which was later changed to Keesaragutta. The temple sports Dravidian architecture which dominates a Gopuram. Archaeological excavations done around the temple show that the Shiva linga and brick remnants belong to the Chalukyan Empire which was found on a hill north of the temple and near the hill’s water reservoir and proof that Jainism and Hinduism co-existed during the reign of Vishnukundins in the 4th and 5th centuries were also found as well as prayer halls, a Yagya shala and fortification walls were unearthed on Keesaragutta hill. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 12:45 pm and from 3 to 7:30 pm.
The Moula Ali Dargah is located on the top of a hillock called Moula Ali with the Dargah or mosque dedicated to Hazrat Ali. The hill has 500 odd steps which aren’t too steep, leading to the top of the hillock where the dargah is located. There is a pavilion and a place specially allocated to beat drums in the dargah and it is one of the 11 heritage sites identified by the Heritage Conservation Committee. The dargah came into being during the Qutb Shahi times and it is believed that Yakoob, the courtier of the 16th century Sultan Ibraham Quli Qutub Shah dreamt of the imprint of Ali’s palm. He later found a similar imprint on a rock in the Moula Ali hill and so the dargah was believed to have been constructed around that rock.
In the shrine, there is a particular rock that is believed to have healing powers. On the doorway of the dargah, one can find locks hanging which is put up devotees if they wanted any of their wishes to be fulfilled. The Dargah is led through a chamber; inside, it is beautifully decorated with hundreds of frosted glasses in vibrant colours. On the inner side, there is an imprint of Ali’s palm, which is hidden behind a screen, and on the other side, there are scriptures and other framed pictures. The dargah is open daily from 5:30 am to 10 pm.
The All Saints Church falls under the denomination of the Church of South India, which was previously regarded as Anglican and is dedicated to the All Saints. Legend has it that before the church was entrusted to the Church of South India in 1947, it was a garrison church and the army chaplains presided over it. The church is known for its grand celebration of Christmas and other occasions like Good Friday, Palm Sunday and Easter. The church is surrounded by beautiful gardens where one can take a walk. The church is open between 7 am and 7 pm daily.
The Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption is one of the oldest Roman Catholic churches in India and was earlier known as the Cathedral of the Archdiocese of Hyderabad and St. Mary’s Church. It is a minor basilica and is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary. Relatively simple from the inside, St. Mary’s church is an excellent example of the use of Gothic architecture with curved arches and pointed supports. The congregation has four bells which were bought from Italy in 1901 and has several side altars dedicated to specific saints. There is also a museum featuring the church’s history and pictures. The church is open from 8 am to 7 pm daily.
The Emperor of All Maladies: A Biography of Cancer – Siddhartha Mukherjee
The Emperor of All Maladies is a magnificent, profoundly humane “biography” of cancer – from its first documented appearances thousands of years ago through the epic battles in the twentieth century to cure, control, and conquer it to a radical new understanding of its essence.
Physician, researcher, and award-winning science writer, Siddhartha Mukherjee examines cancer with a cellular biologist’s precision, a historian’s perspective, and a biographer’s passion. The result is an astonishingly lucid and eloquent chronicle of a disease humans have lived with – and perished from – for more than five thousand years.
The story of cancer is a story of human ingenuity, resilience, and perseverance, but also of hubris, paternalism, and misperception. Mukherjee recounts centuries of discoveries, setbacks, victories, and deaths, told through the eyes of his predecessors and peers, training their wits against an infinitely resourceful adversary that, just three decades ago, was thought to be easily vanquished in an all-out “war against cancer.”
The book reads like a literary thriller with cancer as the protagonist. From the Persian Queen Atossa, whose Greek slave cut off her malignant breast, to the nineteenth-century recipients of primitive radiation and chemotherapy to Mukherjee’s own leukemia patient, Carla, The Emperor of All Maladies is about the people who have soldiered through fiercely demanding regimens in order to survive—and to increase our understanding of this iconic disease.
Originally built as the home to the prime minister of Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah, Mir Momen, the Purani Haveli displays some of the most exquisite forms of craftsmanship and today is known for its remarkable exhibits of artwork and talent and functions as a museum. A beautiful structure, one of the most unique features of the Purani Haveli is a wardrobe, which is the longest in the world. It is built on two levels and has a hand-operated elevator in place. The palace is an impressive structure with its interiors resembling the 18th-century European style of architecture and also amalgamates the traditional Indian courtyards and houses several antique furniture within the U-shaped complex with a central single-story building. The central palace has two parallel double-storeyed oblong wings among which the western wing houses the world’s longest wardrobe. Both the wings have ornamented courtyards that are further flanked by rooms and verandahs. A few of the chambers are embellished with exquisite tile and mosaic work that gives a unique regal appearance. The museum is filled with a fascinating collection of items gifted to Mir Osman Ali Khan, the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad. The key highlights of the place are the remarkable exhibits of souvenirs, gifts, mementoes and models presented to him on the occasion of his Silver Jubilee Celebrations in 1927. The museum also has silver replicas of monuments in Hyderabad. A gold tiffin box inlaid with diamonds, diamond and gold-studded daggers, pearl-studded wooden writing box, painting of Mir Osman Ali Khan, caskets, silver perfume containers, silver coffee cups studded with diamonds, silver filigree elephant and citations about Mir Osman Ali Khan in Urdu is also present here. A wooden throne used for silver jubilee celebrations of the last Nizam also adorns the premises of the museum. Vintage cars such as 1930 Rolls-Royce, a Packard, and a Jaguar Mark V also find a place here. The museum is closed on Fridays and on other days is open between 10:30 am and 5 pm. Entry fees are INR 80 for adults, INR 15 for children and INR 150 to be allowed to take a camera inside.
The Taj Falaknuma Palace perched around 2000 metres above Hyderabad was once the royal residence of the Nizams, probably the richest man in the world at that time. Today the palace has been converted into a five-star luxury heritage hotel. Entry fees for adults are INR 3,100 while children need to pay INR 2,480. The Malwala Palace is an 18th-century historical monument that boasts of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles and has specially imported teak wood furniture. There are no entrance fees and is well known for its beautifully carved wooden pavilions.
Located in the Ibrahim Bagh complex, Taramati Baradari used to be a traveller’s inn or a sarai built by Ibrahim Quli Qutub Shah. Today it is a cultural complex with an open-air auditorium that can accommodate 1600, an air-cooled theatre which can take in 500, a banquet hall and a multi-cuisine restaurant. It is open on all days between 11 am and 6 pm and has no entry fee.
Dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara of Tirumala with the idol a replica of the Lord in Tirupati, the Birla Mandir was created in 1976 by Swami Renganathananda of the Ramakrishna Ashram and constructed by the Birla Foundation. The temple is located at the top of a 280 feet hill called the Naubat Pahad that overlooks both, Hyderabad and Secunderabad as well as the Hussain Sagar Lake and has one of the best viewpoints in the city. The main idol in the temple is 11 feet tall and made entirely of white marble from Rajasthan and weighs approximately 2000 tonnes and is covered by a carved lotus canopy made of granite stone. The architectural style is a fusion of the South Indian and Nagara styles. The main tower and shrine or the Jagadananda Vimanam is built in the Dravidian style, the other smaller towers strongly resemble the South Indian style and the Sanctum Sanctorum is designed in a distinct Oriya style with a 42 feet flagstaff made of Bronze. There are depictions of scenes from Mahabharata and Ramayana carved on the walls. The temple is open on all days between 7 am to 12 noon and then again between 3 to 9 pm.
The Chilkur Balaji Temple in the village of Chilkur, about 30 km from Hyderabad. It is also called the Visa Temple as it is believed that paying your obeisance to the presiding deity, Lord Balaji Venkateswara, along with his wives, Sridevi and Bhoodev can grant your wishes of gaining a visa to the USA. The belief finds its roots in an incident when a few students who had their Visa applications rejected, came and prayed here only to have their applications accepted. The temple is also sometimes referred to as the Chilkoor Balaji Temple and is reputed to be the oldest one in Telangana and is believed to have been built half a millennium ago during the time of Madanna and Akkanna, the uncles of Bhakta Ramadas. Chilkur Balaji is also the only temple in India that has continued to stay out of government control and which does not accept any monetary donations from its devotees. The temple is so popular that around 75,000 to 1,00,000 devotees visit the temple every week. As per belief, the temple was constructed by a devotee who used to visit Tirupati every year. However, on one occasion he could not do so, owing to serious illness. Moved by his faith, Lord Venkateswara appeared in his dream and instructed him to find his idol, along with the idols of Sridevi and Bhoodevi and construct this magnificent temple. When the devotee started digging, his axe struck Lord Balaji’s idol and suddenly blood started to flow from the wounds, turning the ground scarlet. The devotee then heard a mystical voice instructing him to flood the area with milk. This further resulted in the idols of Lord Balaji, accompanied by Sridevi and Bhoodevi to emerge from the ground and the idols were then installed in the temple. During a visit to the Chilkur Balaji Temple, devotees go through the usual rituals of prayer including the 11 circumambulations of the inner shrine and this is followed by making a vow. When and if this vow is fulfilled, the devotee has to walk 108 times around the sanctum sanctorum. The temple is open between 5 am and 8 pm daily.
The main deity at the ISKCON temple is Lord Krishna with other idols of Sri Gaura-Nitai, Sri Jagannatha Baladeva-Subhadra and Sri Radha Madana-Mohana. Also known as the Sri Radha-Madana-Mohana Temple, the temple has a magnificient architecture with the steps having various stops that lead to further ends of the temple. The Sanghi Temple is dedicated to Lord Venkateswara and is situated at a distance of about 35 km from Hyderabad. Perched atop the Parmanand Giri Hill, the temple has a magnificent gopuram and boasts of marvellous architecture. The temple houses idols of other Hindu deities as well and is said to be a replica of the Tirumala Temple. The temple is open on all days from 8:30 to 10:30 am and then between 4 to 6 pm. The Peddamma Temple’s main deity is the supreme mother as Pedamma means Mother of Mothers who is the supreme of the 11 forms of the village deities. Besides the main shrines, the Peddamma temple also has idols of Goddess Lakshmi, Lord Ganpathy and Goddess Saraswati and the temple accepts only coconuts as offerings. The temple which is closed on Sundays is open from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm on other days. Built by the Odia community in Hyderabad, the Sri Jagannath Temple is dedicated to Lord Jagannath, the Lord of the Universe. Constructed in red sandstone, the temple follows the ancient shikhara style pattern. Besides the main deity, the temple has smaller shrines dedicated to Goddess Lakshmi, Lord Shiva, Lord Ganesha, Lord Hanuman and the Navagrahas. The temple is open between 6 to 11 am and 5 to 9 pm on all days.
The largest and oldest mosque in the city, the Mecca Masjid was commissioned in 1614 by Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah, but only finished in 1694. Together with the Chowmahalla Palace, Laad Bazaar, and Charminar, the mosque forms the four heritage attractions in the city. Located near the Charminar, it has the capacity to accommodate 10,000 people. A grand gateway welcomes visitors to a path that leads up to the entrance of the court where one will find a water fountain with a vast pond situated nearby and it is believed that anyone who sits on the benches by the pond revisits them at least once again in their lifetime. The main prayer hall of the mosque is 75 feet high and 180 feet long with 15 ornamental arches decorating the roof with crystal chandeliers from Belgium which act as a support for three walls, such that five arches support each of the walls. Sermons from the Holy Quran as well as floral embellishments are carved onto the surface of the arches typical of the Qutb Shahi style of architecture. The columns are octagonal in shape and give way to arched balconies at the same level as the roof of the mosque itself. The columns themselves rise much higher and end in the shape of a spiral dome. Inside the dome lies five pathways to the tombs of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. The domes at the zenith of the mosque were not a part of the original architecture, rather they were later additions under the Mughals. Other heritage items such as a single strand of hair belonging to Prophet Mohammad, can be found here. It is believed that the arch embellishments over the main sanctum are made from the soil of Mecca which is why the mosque is known as the Mecca Masjid. Only followers of Islam are allowed to enter the mosque. The mosque is open daily between 4 am and 9:30 pm.
Located within the Paigah Palace, the Spanish Mosque is massive and can accommodate around 3000 people. Also known as the Masjid Iqbal Ud Daula or the Jam e Masjid Aiwan-E-Begumpet, the mosque, constructed in 1906, has beautiful architecture similar to that of Spain with a church-like appearance due to its structure and designs and is one-of-its-kind in India. The mosque is open on all days between 5 am to 9 pm. The Toli Masjid, also known as the Damdi Masjid is a flamboyant mosque, located nearly 2 km from the Golconda fort. It is a breathtakingly beautiful example of the Qutb Shahi architecture and is embellished by two minarets of about 20 meters on either side. It was constructed in 1671 by Mir Musa Khan Mahaldar, the designer of Qutb Shah. The frontage of the mosque comprises about five arches, each of which has lotus decorations in the spandrels. The main arch is somewhat broader and more elaborate. The mosque is open daily between 10 am and 6 pm.
Located in the Ibrahim Bagh, the Qutub Shahi Tombs are a group of small and big mosques and tombs built by the rulers of the Qutub Shah dynasty. The tombs are all built on a raised platform and have a dome-shaped structure. The little tombs are single-storeyed while the bigger ones are double storeyed. The tombs are closed on Fridays and on other days, open between 9:30 am and 4:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 10 for adults and INR 5 for children. Located in suburban Hyderabad, the Paigah Tombs are a group of tombs of the Paigah royal family and is managed by a family of caretakers who reside in the premises. Although derelict and dilapidated today, the tombs still boast of a stunningarchitecture with marvellously carved marble panels. The tombs are open daily between 10 am and 5 pm and do not have any entry fee.
An urban park named after Lumbini in Nepal, the Lumbini Park is located alongside the Hussain Sagar Lake and has an artificial water tank. There is a huge statue of Lord Buddha installed in the tank which can be reached through paddle boats. The park also has musical fountain shows and is open on all days between 9 am and 9 pm. The entry fee for adults is INR 20 and for children is INR 10. The Hyderabad Botanical Garden boasts of a rich variety of plants, shrubs, trees, flowering plants and medicinal herbs plus several meandering waterways and fountains. Open daily from 5:30 am and 6 pm, entry fees to the park are INR 25 for adults and INR 10 for children while photography which is allowed between 5 and 8 am has a fee of INR 500. Adjacent to the Hussain Sagar Lake, the NTR Gardens is a tiny but gorgeous park dotted with brightly coloured plants and tall trees. Boasting well-groomed landscaping, ornate lamp posts and brilliant water fountains, the park also has a souvenir shop, toy train, freefall, restaurants and a variety of fun activities for both kids and adults. The entry fee to the park is INR 20 for adults and INR 10 for children and the park is open from 2:30 to 8:30 pm, Mondays to Saturdays and from 12:30 to 8:30 pm on Sundays. Spread over 92 acres on the banks of Hussain Sagar Lake, the Sanjeevaiah Park is dedicated to the former President of India, Dr Neelam Sanjeeva Reddy. Replete with lush green trees, flowering shrubs, fountains and glossy grass lawns, the park is the perfect place to rewind and rejuvenate from the daily routine life. Open daily from 9 am to 6 pm, for morning walks, the entry fee is INR 2 per day or INR 50 monthly while general visitors pay INR 5 per visit and children below the age of 10 do not pay any entry fees. Named after the former Prime Minister Smt. Indira Gandhi, the Indira Park houses tall towering trees and plenty of shrubs and flowering plants. Spread over an area of 76 acres, the park is believed to have been built in 1975. The park is open between 5 am to 8 pm daily and has an entry fee of INR 5 for adults and INR 1 for children. A popular hangout, the Krishna Kanth Park is dotted with swings and sprinkled with benches and is open daily between 5 am and 9 pm. The Kidwai Garden boasts lush green trees, vibrant blooming flowers and an all-round aesthetic atmosphere and is a popular local spot. The park is open daily between 10 am and 7 pm and has an entry fee of INR 20 for adults and INR 10 for children. Located adjacent to the Saroornagar Lake, the Priyadarshini Park has beautifully landscaped lawns, swings and snack stalls. The Saroornagar Lake offers magnificent views of the city in the moonlight and is open between 9 am and 8 pm daily. Entry fees to the park are INR 5. Established in 1846, during the Nizam’s reign, the Public Gardens is considered to be the oldest park in Hyderabad. Also known as the Bagh-e-Aam, the park houses several buildings of historical and political importance including the very popular Lotus Pond. Open daily from 9 am to 12 noon and then between 2 to 6 pm, the park’s entrance fee is INR 20 for adults and INR 10 for children.
Renowned as Asia’s largest artificial lake at 5.7 km, the Hussain Sagar Lake was commissioned by Ibrahim Quli Qutub Shah in 1563 and is renowned for its monolith statue of Lord Buddha that stands in its centre, the tallest of its kind in the world. Also known as the Tank Bund, the lake lies on a tributary of the River Musi and has a 3 km long dam and connects the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. The statue of Lord Buddha was installed in 1992 and was inaugurated by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Crafted entirely out of white granite, the statue is placed upon what is known as the Rock of Gibraltar. The unique heart-shaped lake is perennially fed by canals from the Musi river and was the main source of water supply to Hyderabad before Himayat Sagar and Osman Sagar were built on river Musi. Hussein Sagar is open from 8 am to 10 pm daily.
Located in Hyderabad’s outskirts, the Osman Sagar Lake is also known as Gandipet. Elless World, Ocean Park and Treasure Island surround this lake, making it a local favourite. The water body was made by building a dam on the Moosi River in 1920 by Mir Osman Ali Khan and it provides waters to Hyderabad and Secunderabad. The lake is open daily between 9:30 am and 5:30 pm and has an entry fee of INR 5 per person.
Durgam Cheruvu is a serene and picturesque lake in the middle of Hyderabad, it is also known as the Secret Lake as it is bordered by granite on all ends and is hidden by rocks. It is believed that the lake was the main source of water for those living in Golconda Fort. Today, Durgam Cheruvu has an artificial waterfall and fountain with boating the must-do activity here. It is open between 10 am and 6:30 pm daily.
With over 1500 species here, the Nehru Zoological Park is also known as the Hyderabad Zoo and is among the largest zoos in India at 380 acres. Inside the zoo, visitors are spoilt for choice with a number of safaris including Lion, Tiger, and Bear. For children, enclosures such as the Dinosaur Park visit, a mini train ride and elephant rides. The zoo also has a museum detailing its natural history. Migratory birds are known to arrive every year at the Mir Alam tank lake and its embankment, adding to the biological diversity of the place. From April to June, the zoo is open from 8 am to 5:30 pm while between July and March, it is open from 8:30 am to 5 pm. Closed on Mondays, entrance is INR 20 for adults and INR 10 for children. For the train ride, adults and children pay INR 15 while the safari ride costs INR 25 for adults and INR 10 for children. Fees for the regular Elephant Ride is INR 15 for an adult and INR 5 for a child while for the Maharaja Elephant Ride, it is INR 50 for an adult and INR 50 for a child. The entrance fee to the Nocturnal Animal House is INR 10 for adults and INR 5 for children and a brochure with the zoo details and a map is available for INR 5 at the entrance. A guest house is available from 9 am to 5:30 pm for INR 200 for 10 persons and INR 2000 for more than 10 persons. For an amateur photography camera, the fees are INR 20 while it is INR 500 for a professional photography camera. Fees for an amateur video camera is INR 100 and INR 500 for a professional video camera.
A one of its kind planetarium, the Birla Planetarium was inaugurated in 1985 with technological help from Japan. With periodical sky shows throughout the day, the planetarium is open daily between 11:30 am and 8 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 100 per person while the entrance fee to the science museum and planetarium combined is INR 160 per person.
Located on the banks of the Musi River, the Salar Jung Museum is one of the three national museums in the country and also among the largest at 10 acres and spread over two floors. The collection inside the museum is because of Mir Yousuf Ali Khan, also known as Salar Jung III, the former Prime Minister of the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad. With over one million paintings, sculptures, carvings, manuscripts and artefacts, the museum is a repository of art collections, some dating back to the first century, including a painting of Raja Ram Mohan Roy, the artist, Aurangzeb’s sword, daggers that belonged to Shah Jahan, Jehangir and a full wardrobe of Tipu Sultan. The museum also has a number of priceless sculptures such as the Veiled Rebecca, the Double Statue of Mephistopheles & Margaretta. The biggest attraction at the museum is the musical clock dating to the 19th century and consists of more than 350 parts. It is believed that the present collection is just half of the original collection of Salar Jung III. The museum building has a semi-circular shape and 38 galleries within it spread over two floors with the ground floor having 20 galleries and the first floor 18 galleries. The musical clock was acquired from Cook and Kelvey Co. and has more than three hundred parts. A bearded man in a robe comes out of an enclosure and hits the bell, the number of hits signifying the time of hour while a blacksmith constantly hits an anvil every second. Created by the Italian sculptor, Giovanni Maria Benzoni, the Veiled Rebecca is a life-size sculpture that is skilfully wrapped in a transparent veil that is also a part of the marble masterpiece. The pedestal on which the sculpture stands is carved out of a single marble and there are only four copies of the Veiled Rebecca in the world. The museum is closed on Fridays and public holidays and on other days is open from 10 am to 5 pm and Indians will need to pay INR 20 and foreigners INR 500 to access the museum.
A private museum, the Sudha Cars Museum was established in 2010 by Kanyaboyina Sudhakar who displayed hand-made cars created by him with all cars designed to look like everyday objects. Every exhibit has a plaque stating the time and cost of manufacture and the maximum speed it can attain. The cars at the museum can be driven but are not for sale. The museum is open daily between 9:30 am and 6:30 pm and has an entrance fee of INR 50 for adults and INR 15 for children.
In close proximity to the Charminar, the Nizams Museum is a royal museum, situated in the Purani Haveli housing the memorabilia and artefacts of the then Nizam of Hyderabad. These include a 1930 Rolls Royce, Mark V Jaguar and Packard as well as the flattering gold-furnished throne, used during the celebrations, coffee cups made of silver and studded with diamonds, a gold tiffin box with diamonds and more. The museum which is closed on Fridays is open from 10 am to 5 pm and has an entry fee of INR 100 for adults and INR 15 for children.
The AP State Archaeology Museum, now known as Telangana State Archaeology Museum is located in the public garden of Hyderabad and is one of the oldest museums in South India. The museum is built in the Indo-Saracenic style and is unique. It is said that the sole purpose of the museum was not just to be a place of artefacts, but as a repository of the culture and heritage of the state of Hyderabad when it was taken over by the British colonial rule. Created in 1915, the museum was constructed in 1930. Previously the museum was installed inside a palace in the Public Garden which was the Nizam for his daughter and was called it the Doll’s house. The most famous attraction of the museum is the presence of an Egyptian mummy which was accidentally brought in by Mahbub Ali Khan, the son-in-law of Nizam. Another attraction is the gallery dedicated to Lord Buddha which comprises bronze artefacts, arms, armours and has a Jain gallery as well. Closed on Fridays, the museum is otherwise open from 10:30 am to 5 pm and has entrance fees of INR 10 per adult and INR 5 per child as well as INR 20 for any camera carried inside.
Shilparamam is a traditional crafts village created with the idea to preserve and conserve traditional crafts. The village has been set amidst cascading waterfalls and lush greenery; with sections designated to depict each region of the country. There is also a rock museum, a rural museum, a recreational area and boating activities for visitors. Open daily between 10:30 am and 8:30 pm, Shilparamam has an entry fee of INR 40 for adults and INR 30 for children.
The Ramoji Film City was built in 1991 and is spread over 2500 acres. It has been certified as the World’s largest Film Studio Complex by the Guinness Book of World Records. The film city can accommodate 20 film units at one go and has various shooting locations including the streets of London, the Hollywood signage, Japanese gardens, an airport, a hospital, landscapes and buildings as well as laboratories. There are a number of package tours and buses that leave regularly from the city to tour the film city. It is open daily from 9 am to 8 pm daily and a general guided tour without Food provided will set an adult back by INR 900 & a child between 3-12 years by INR 800. A Ramoji Star Experience which includes food provided will cost an adult INR 1900 & a child between 3 – 12 years, INR 1600.
Located in the Jubilee Hills area, the KBR National Park or the Kasu Brahmananda Reddy Park is also known as the Chiran Fort Palace. The park is known as a jungle amidst the concrete jungle and was declared a National Park in 1998 and the complex houses the Chiran Fort Palace, a Mor bungalow on a hillock, the Gol bungalow, stables for animals, a motor shed for vehicles, several water tanks and wells, all enveloped by a dense forest. One can see more than 600 species of flowers and plants, more than 100 species of birds, reptiles and other animals as well as several small animals here as well as an exciting range of butterflies and the park also offers guided tours mostly during the evenings. The two different zones of the park are the Conservation Zone and the Visitors Zone. The larger of the two zones, the Conservation Zone is spread over 86.5 hectares and is dedicated primarily to the conservation of nature with several planned activities here. The Visitors Zone is spread over 56 hectares and falls partially under the Wildlife Protection Act, and so visitors can only access certain parts of this zone. The Park used to be a palace before being declared a national park in 1998. The Chiran Palace was built on the premises in 1940 and it is believed that Azam Jah gifted this palace to his son Prince Mukarram Jah, on his coronation and is a double-storey structure.
Located near the Chiklur village, the Mrugavani National Park is a very popular weekend getaway for locals which sprawls over 1211 acres and houses 600 species of animals and plants. The Park was declared a National Park in 1994 and in addition to birdwatching and jungle safaris, the park also houses a tall tower that lets one look at the mesmerising view of the wildland below. The national park also has a jungle resort which allows visitors to unwind and relax amidst nature. Visitors can tour the Mrugavani National Park by taking a safari bus which can take a maximum of 50 passengers at a time and the cost per person is INR 20. Other facilities in the park include a well-stocked library, an education centre, a museum, and an auditorium. Visitors can enjoy a bird’s eye view of the forest from the tall watchtower inside the park. Accommodation is also available with prior booking in tents, cottages, and dormitories. The park is closed on Mondays and on other days is open between 9 am and 5 pm. Entrance fees are INR 10 per person while the safari rate is INR 50 per person.
We’re just a couple of weeks to the new year, but Omicron is what is dominating headlines. Omicron across the world today. A new study now says that Omicron is more likely to reinfect than Delta with the risk of reinfection with the Omicron variant more than five times higher and so far, it has shown no sign of being milder than the Delta variant. Depending on the estimates used for vaccine effectiveness against symptomatic infection from the Delta variant, this translates into vaccine effectiveness of between 0 per cent and 20 per cent after two doses, and between 55 per cent and 80 per cent after a booster dose. According to the World Health Organisation, WHO, Omicron has been detected in 77 countries and more countries probably already have it, but it has not yet been detected. Because the variant is spreading so fast, the sheer number of cases could overwhelm health systems. As of yesterday, Singapore has reported 24 confirmed cases, of which only three are locals and 21 are imported cases.
The children are done with their exams and are on their Christmas holidays. They are quite busy catching up with friends, especially BB whose best friend will be enlisting in early January. They have tons of activities planned for the next two weeks, which is good for their social life.
Today’s quote is an exercise in daily affirmation which comes to us courtesy of Ralph Waldo Emerson. All it tells us to do is tell ourselves every day that every day is the best day of our lives. Simple right? But it is hard to do, as I can attest to, but we need to persevere and we will eventually get there.
So in the light of the recent COVID developments, please stay safe, and make sure you are masked and please get vaccinated and if you are eligible for the booster shot, go ahead and get it. It will protect you to a large extent from the virus.
Memories and Such 