Festivals of India: Karva Chauth

On Sunday, hundreds of thousands of women, mostly belonging to the northern part of India will take part in a ritual immortalised in hundreds of Indian films, the festival of Karva Chauth.

Karva Chauth is a festival celebrated by Hindu women from mostly the northern part of the Indian subcontinent on the fourth day after the full moon or Purnima in the month of Kartika, about mid-October to mid-November. On Karwa Chauth, married women, especially in North India, observe a fast from sunrise to moonrise for the safety and longevity of their husbands. The Karva Chauth fast is traditionally celebrated in the states of Delhi, Haryana, Rajasthan, Punjab, Jammu and Kashmir, Uttar Pradesh, Bihar, Himachal Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh and is celebrated as Atla Tadde in Andhra Pradesh.

Karva is another word for a pot or a small earthen pot of water and chauth means fourth in a reference to the fact that the festival falls on the fourth day of the dark-fortnight, or Krishna paksh, of the month of Kartik. One hypothesis for this festival is that military campaigns were often conducted by men in far off places whereby men would leave their wives and children at home to go off to the war and their wives would often pray for their safe return. The festival also coincides with the wheat-sowing time or the beginning of the Rabi crop cycle. Big earthen pots in which wheat is stored are sometimes called Karwas, so the fast may have begun as a prayer for a good harvest in this predominantly wheat-eating Northwestern region.

Another story about the origin of this festival relates to the bond of feminine friendship. With the custom of arranged marriage being prevalent, the newlywed is supposed to reside with her husband and in-laws. Being new to the family, the custom arose of befriending another woman as her friend or kangan saheli or sister or dharam behn for life. The friendship would be sanctified through a Hindu ritual during the marriage ceremony itself. The bride’s friend would usually be of the same age or slightly older, typically married into the same village, so that she would not go away and not directly related to her in-laws, so there was no conflict of interest later. This emotional and psychological bond would be considered akin to a blood relationship and it is said that the Karva Chauth festival evolved to include celebrating this special bond of friendship.

There are legends associated with the Karva Chauth festival. In some tellings, the tales are interlinked, with one acting as a frame story for another. The story of Queen Veervati is about a beautiful queen called Veervati who was the only sister of seven loving brothers. She spent her first Karwa Chauth as a married woman at her parents’ house. She began a strict fast after sunrise but, by evening, was desperately waiting for the moonrise as she suffered severe thirst and hunger. Her seven brothers couldn’t bear to see their sister in such distress and created a mirror in a sacred fig or peepal tree that made it look as though the moon had risen. The sister mistook it for the moon and broke her fast. The moment she took the first morsel of food, she sneezed. In her second morsel she found hair. After the third she learned the news of her husband, the King, was dead. Heartbroken, she wept through the night until a Goddess appeared and ask why she crying. When the queen explained her distress, the Goddess revealed how she had been tricked by her brothers and instructed her to repeat the Karwa Chauth fast with complete devotion. When Veervati repeated the fast, Lord Yama, the God of death was forced to restore her husband to life. In a variant of this story, the brothers build a massive fire behind a mountain instead and trick their sister by convincing her that the glow is the moon. She breaks her fast and word arrives that her beloved husband has died. She immediately begins running to her husband’s house, which is somewhat distant, and is intercepted by Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. Goddess Parvati reveals the trickery to her, cuts her own little finger to give the wife a few drops of her holy blood, and instructs her to be careful in keeping the complete fast in the future. The wife sprinkles Parvati’s blood on her dead husband and, coming back to life, they are reunited.

In a legend from the Mahabharata, Draupadi, too, is said to have observed this fast. Once Arjun went to the Nilgiris for penance and the rest of the Pandavas faced many problems in his absence. Draupadi, out of desperation, remembered Lord Krishna and asked for help. Lord Krishna reminded her that on an earlier occasion, when Goddess Parvati had sought Lord Shiva’s guidance under similar circumstances, she had been advised to observe the fast of Karwa Chauth. In some tellings of this legend, Shiva tells Parvati the story of Veervati to describe the Karwa Chauth fast. Draupadi followed the instructions and observed the fast with all its rituals. Consequently, the Pandavas were able to overcome their problems.

The legend of Karva tells us the story of a woman named Karwa who was deeply devoted to her husband. Once, while bathing at a river, her husband was caught by a crocodile. Karva bound the crocodile with cotton yarn and asked Lord Yama, the God of death to send the crocodile to hell. When Yama refused, Karva threatened to curse Yama and destroy him. Yama, who was afraid of being cursed by a devoted wife, sent the crocodile to hell and blessed Karva’s husband with long life and Karva and her husband enjoyed many years of wedded bliss.

A few days before Karva Chauth, married women would buy new Karvas or spherical clay pots, 7-9 inches in diameter and of 2–3 litres capacity and paint them on the outside with beautiful designs. Inside, they would put bangles and ribbons, home-made candy and sweets, make-up items, and small clothes. The women would then visit each other on the day of Karva Chauth and exchange these Karvas. Women begin preparing for Karva Chauth a few days in advance, by buying adornments or shringar, jewelry, and prayer or puja items, and the decorated prayer plate or puja thali. On the day of the fast, women from Punjab awake to eat and drink just before sunrise. In Uttar Pradesh, celebrants eat soot feni with milk in sugar on the eve of the festival. It is said that this helps them go without water the next day. In Punjab, sargi is an important part of this pre-dawn meal and always includes fenia. It is traditional for the sargi to be sent or given to the fasting woman by her mother-in-law. If she lives with her mother-in-law, the pre-dawn meal is prepared by the mother-in-law. On the occasion of Karva Chauth, fasting women choose to wear traditional wear like a sari or lehenga.

The fast begins at dawn. Fasting women do not eat during the day. In traditional observances of the fast, the fasting woman usually does no housework. Women apply henna and other cosmetics to themselves and each other and the day passes in meeting friends and relatives. In some regions, it is customary to give and exchange painted clay pots filled with goodies. Since Karva Chauth follows soon after the Kharif crop harvest in the rural areas, it is a good time for community festivities and gift exchanges. Parents often send gifts to their married daughters and their children. In the evening, a community women-only ceremony is held. Participants dress in fine clothing and wear jewellery and henna, and in some regions dress in the complete finery of their wedding dresses. The dresses are frequently red, gold or orange, which are considered auspicious colours. The fasting women sit in a circle with their puja thalis and depending on the region and community, a version of the story of Karva Chauth is narrated, with regular pauses. The storyteller is usually an older woman or a priest, if one is present. During the pauses, the festival song is sung collectively with the singers passing their thalis around in the circle. In Uttar Pradesh, a priest or an elderly woman of the family narrates the story of Beejabeti or Veervati. Thereafter, the fasting women offer baayna or a melange of goodies to the idols and hand them over to their mother-in-law or sister-in-law.

The ceremony concluded, the women await the rising of the moon. Once the moon is visible, depending on the region and community, it is customary for a fasting woman, to view the moon or its reflection in a vessel filled with water, through a sieve, or through a dupatta. Water is offered to the moon to secure its blessings with women praying briefly for their husband’s life in some regions. It is believed that at this stage, spiritually strengthened by her fast, the woman can successfully confront and defeat death, personified by Lord Yama. Her husband then takes the water from the thali and offers it to his wife and by taking her first sip of water during the day, the fast is now broken and the woman can have a complete meal.

In modern Northern and Northwestern Indian society, Karva Chauth is considered to be a romantic festival, symbolising the love between a husband and wife. Thanks to Bollywood, Karva Chauth isn’t limited to be a North Indian or Punjabi festival anymore and is now glamorised and widely popular in pan India. There have been calls to modify or eliminate the festival by commentators who hold it to be anti-women and to perpetuate the notion of women’s dependence on men. Karva Chauth has also been cited as a symbol of cultural repression of women by some Indian feminists with others calling the festival empowering for women because the festival enables them to quit housework completely for the day and expect gifts from their husbands.

To those celebrating the festival, here’s wishing you a very Happy Karva Chauth!

In My Hands Today…

The Elephant Chaser’s Daughter – Shilpa Raj

Saved by her grandmother from being killed at birth for having been born a female, Shilpa’s life took many unexpected turns and twists through her early years. She faced abandonment by her mother, the formidable constraints placed on her by her family, and the barbs of village elders bound by hundreds of years of oppressive practices and customs that subjugate women. Shilpa is torn between the contrasting lives she leads: one of servitude and injustice experienced by her family; the other of opportunity and empowerment offered by a good education in a school started by a philanthropist.

Just when all seems settled, an unforeseen death under mysterious circumstances shatters whatever stability remains in her life. Pulled in opposite directions, and torn between despair and dreams, Shilpa finally makes a choice for her future. Is she strong enough to stand up to the people she loves, and pursue what she wants?

At its heart The Elephant Chaser’s Daughter is about hope, when all seems lost. Written with raw honesty and grit, this is a deeply moving memoir of a young girl confronting her ‘untouchable’ status in a caste-based society, and her aspirations for modernity.

Travel Bucket List: India – Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu Part 3

Dadra and Nagar Haveli

Dadra and Nagar Haveli is composed of two separate geographical entities: Nagar Haveli, wedged between Maharashtra and Gujarat and 1 km to the northwest, the smaller enclave of Dadra, which is surrounded by Gujarat. Silvassa is the administrative headquarters of Dadra and Nagar Haveli. Dadra and Nagar Haveli was ruled by the Portuguese from 1783 until the mid-20th century and captured by pro-India forces in 1954 before being annexed to India as a union territory in 1961 and was merged with Daman and Diu to form the new union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu on 26 January 2020.

The history of Dadra and Nagar Haveli begins with the defeat of the Koli chieftains of the region by the Rajput kings in 1262. With the rise of Maratha power, Shivaji Maharaj captured the region, but Somshah Rana recaptured it in 1690. After the Treaty of Vasai in 1739, Vasai and the surrounding territories came under Maratha rule and soon after they captured Ramnagar but reinstated the ruler, Ramdeo, under conditions. But the Marathas soon captured Nagar Haveli and the surrounding region. The Portuguese were granted the area of Nagar Haveli in 1783 based on the Friendship Treaty of 1779 as compensation for damage to the Portuguese frigate Santana by the Maratha Navy in 1772. In 1785 the Portuguese purchased Dadra, annexing it to Portuguese India. In 1818, the Maratha Empire was defeated by the British in the Third Anglo-Maratha War, and so the Portuguese became the effective rulers of Dadra and Nagar Haveli. Under Portuguese rule, Dadra and Nagar Haveli were part of the Daman district and the two territories formed a single concelho or municipality, named Nagar Haveli until 1885. The Portuguese rule lasted until 1954, when Dadra and Nagar Haveli was captured by supporters of the Indian Union and was the first colony to be freed from Portuguese rule by the Indian Union in 1954, after nearly two centuries of Portuguese rule. From 1954 to 1961, Dadra and Nagar Haveli existed as a de facto state known as Free Dadra and Nagar Haveli but was still recognised internationally as Portuguese possessions. It was merged with the Indian Union in 1961and incorporated as a Union Territory and merged to create a new Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu on 26 January 2020.

Dadra and Nagar Haveli is spread over 491 sq km and comprises two separate geographical units. The larger part, Nagar Haveli, spans a roughly C-shaped area upriver from the city of Daman on the coast, at the centre of which, straddling the border with Gujarat, is the Madhuban reservoir. The smaller enclave of Dadra is a short distance to the northwest. The union territory is in the middle of the undulating watershed of the Daman Ganga River, which flows through Nagar Haveli and later forms the short southern border of Dadra. The towns of Dadra and Silvassa lie on the north bank of the river. The Western Ghats range rises to the east, and the foothills of the range occupy the eastern portion of the district. Maghval, a small enclave village belonging to Gujarat is located within Nagar Haveli, just south of Silvassa.

Silvassa, the administrative headquarters of the union territory is located in the Nagar Haveli pocket and has a large number of factories and industries providing significant government revenue, which allows the city to maintain a low level of taxation. Silvassa is also considered to be the home of Warli culture, the language spoken by the Warli people, similar to both Marathi and Gujarati.

Located around a lake, Island Garden has quaint wooden bridges, pretty thatched huts and paddleboat rides with flowers and a path within it that provides a track for those wanting to walk or jog. Meaning Green Forest, the Hirwa Van Gardens is a popular picnic spot with cascading waterfalls and colourful flowerbeds interspersed amongst the lush green gardens offering its visitors mesmerising sights. 40 km from Silvassa, Dudhani is a large lake which, with the construction of the Madhuban Dam on the Daman Ganga has resulted in the formation of a waterfront in Dudhani. The Nakshatra Garden is an Astro-themed garden, with a large variety of plants and trees linked to zodiac signs. The garden has a dedicated play area for kids as well as numerous little ponds and various species of trees linked by small bridges and serve as a home for various species of ducks. The garden is famous for its medicinal herbs and plants including Ayurvedic herbs. The park is open from 6:30 am to 7 pm every day.

Our Lady of Piety Church was built around 1886 or 1889 in the Portuguese architectural style. The Tapovan Tourist Complex houses a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and lies about 18 km from Silvassa at Bindrabin. The complex also has cottages, a restaurant and an amusement park with fountains and a well-laid garden.

The Lion Safari Wildlife Park is part of the Dadra and Nagar Haveli Wildlife Sanctuary, spread over an area of 25 hectares and is also home to the Asiatic Lion. The best way to explore the park is to take a safari in a bus or van fitted with a mesh screen and spot the lions in their natural habitat. The park also shares the neighbourhood with the Satmalia Deer Park and is open from 9 am to 5 pm. On the way to Khanvel, Satmalia has a wildlife sanctuary with many species of antelope. Many other animals, including sambhar and chital deer, and blackbucks as well as a wide variety of birds, including the flame back woodpecker, peacocks, and thrushes can be spotted. The watchtower near the water hole provides an incredible panoramic view of the sanctuary and the Madhuban Dam.

The Vanganga Lake complex is situated amidst the Island Gardens and offers paddleboat rides as well as a peaceful setting with flowerbeds and lush green gardens around the lake. Unique Japanese style bridges and a modern state of the art Signature bridge connects the central island to the main garden. 20 km to the south of Silvassa, Khanvel is a popular tourist destination and makes for a perfect getaway for those who want a lazy holiday. Khanvel has a crystal blue river flowing by, a forest with rich biodiversity and ancient history.

The Tribal Museum displays the lifestyle and culture of the tribes of Dadra & Nagar Haveli. One can see ornaments, musical instruments, fishing tools, hunting gadgets, agricultural and other household articles used by the tribals of this territory including the Warli, Dodhiya, Kokna and Kathodia. The tribal way of life is displayed through life-size models, wedding dresses and photographs of eventful ceremonies.

This was all about the Union Territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu and is something I am waiting to explore more, given that it is so close to Mumbai. I am planning a short trip there the next time we are in Mumbai.

In My Hands Today…

Quiet: The Power of Introverts in a World That Can’t Stop Talking – Susan Cain

At least one-third of the people we know are introverts. They are the ones who prefer listening to speaking; who innovate and create but dislike self-promotion; who favor working on their own over working in teams. It is to introverts—Rosa Parks, Chopin, Dr. Seuss, Steve Wozniak—that we owe many of the great contributions to society.

In Quiet, Susan Cain argues that we dramatically undervalue introverts and shows how much we lose in doing so. She charts the rise of the Extrovert Ideal throughout the twentieth century and explores how deeply it has come to permeate our culture. She also introduces us to successful introverts—from a witty, high-octane public speaker who recharges in solitude after his talks, to a record-breaking salesman who quietly taps into the power of questions. Passionately argued, superbly researched, and filled with indelible stories of real people, Quiet has the power to permanently change how we see introverts and, equally important, how they see themselves.

Travel Bucket List: India – Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu Part 2

Source

Diu

The district of Diu is made up of Diu Island and two small enclaves on the Indian mainland with the district headquarters at Diu Town and is the ninth least populous district in the country, out of 640. Historically part of the Saurashtra region of Gujarat, under Portuguese rule it mirrored the system of administrative division in Portugal and was headed by a district governor, subordinate to the governor-general of Portuguese India in Goa and remained an overseas territory of Portugal until it was annexed by Indian forces on 19 December 1961. From 1961 to 1987, it was a part of the union territory of Goa, Daman and Diu and in 1987, it became a part of the newly formed union territory of Daman and Diu and in January 2020, became part of the new union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli and Daman and Diu. Diu occupies an area of 40 sq km and consists of Diu Island and the Ghogolá peninsula on the mainland. 20 km east of Diu Island, is the small territory of Simbor.

Diu Island is where the town of Diu is located.  An island off the southern coast of Gujarat’s Kathiawar peninsula, separated from the mainland by a tidal creek, the island has an area of 40 sq km.

Diu Fort, also known as Praça de Diu in Portuguese was built by the Portuguese during their rule with the town located to the west of the fort. Built in 1535 after a defence alliance forged by Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat and the Portuguese when Humayun, the Mughal Emperor, waged war to annex this territory, the fort had some additions made in 1541 and was strengthened over the years, till 1546. The fort is massive and well preserved with a double moat that must have been impregnable once, but years of sea erosion and neglect are leading to its slow collapse. Cannonballs litter the place, and the ramparts have a superb array of cannons. The lighthouse in the fort is Diu’s highest point, with a beam that reaches 32 km in every direction and spectacular views of the surrounding. There are several small chapels, one holding engraved tombstone fragments. Part of the fort also serves as the island’s jail. The fort commands a magnificent view of the sea, and a jetty constructed on the northwestern coast was once used to trade with Cambay, Broach and Surat in Gujarat. Along with the Basilica of Bom Jesus in old Goa, Diu fort was listed as the seven wonders of Portugal during their colonial rule. The fort is surrounded by water from three sides and is divided into three different segments, the outer wall built along the coastline, the inner wall where guns are mounted and the double moat which stands between the two walls to protect the fort. The double moated wall is built from sandstone and is capable enough to keep the enemies at bay. Three gates lead up to the fortress, and the one used for entry and has five large windows with stone galleries. A permanent bridge leads to the main entryway that is engraved with inscriptions in Portuguese.

Opposite the Diu Fort, is the Panikota Fort also known as the Fortim do Mar, which translates to Sea Fort or Panikotha that was once used as a jail for the Diu Island. A 16th-century ruin, the Panikota Fort is built right at the mouth of the creek and is a magnificent stone structure in the sea. Approximately one nautical mile from the Diu jetty, it also has a lighthouse and a small chapel dedicated to Our Lady of the Sea. The fortress creates a beautiful view whether seen from the jetty, from the villages of Ghoghla, from Diu proper or from the Fort itself.

The St Paul’s Church is named after St. Paul, the Apostle of Jesus also known as the Apostle to the Gentiles, and was built in 1601. Dedicated to Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, it is built in the style similar to Bom Jesus Basilica church at Goa. Illuminated by floodlights at night, the main façade of the church is perhaps the most elaborate of all Portuguese churches in India and is built in a Baroque style of architecture and is the largest and only functioning church in Diu. The interiors of the church are impressive with intricately carved woodwork and the design includes delicate volutes and shell-like motifs. The altar has an image of St. Mary and is carved from Burmese teak with 101 candles around it. Above the altar, there is a blue and white barrel-vaulted nave adorned with priceless old paintings and statues.

Now a museum, the old St. Thomas Church houses antique statues, various stone inscriptions of the earlier rulers, wooden carvings and idols. The huge edifice built in the Gothic architectural style was built in 1598 with a part converted into a museum with artefacts displayed dating to the 16th century. Established in 1593, the Church of St. Francis of Assisi is said to be one of the oldest churches in Diu which is today a hospital. Named after Saint Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone, this hilltop church has a distinct Portuguese architectural style. The wide set of stairs at the entrance leads to its ivory-embellished external feature and offers great views of the Arabian sea.

The Gangeshwar Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located 3 km away from Diu Town in Fudam village. Believed to have been built by the Pandavas, this temple is famous for its five Shiva Lingas, or rocks in the shape of Lord Shiva which is present in the middle of the sea. Only the tip of these rocks can be seen whenever there is a high tide because the seawater submerges them. Gangeshwar refers to Lord Shiva who is considered to be the Lord of River Ganga since the Ganges descended to earth from the locks of Lord Shiva. This temple is also known as the Seashore Temple since it is situated near the seashore. On the rock above the Shiva Linga is a Seshanag which was carved to look out for the Shiva Linga. Lord Ganesha, Lord Vishnu, and Goddess Lakshmi can be found at the entrance of the temple. At the time of high tide rise, the crystal clear water of the tidal waves cleans the whole temple along with the Lingas.

The INS Khukri Memorial is the memorial site of an Indian Naval Ship that sank during the India-Pakistan war of 1971. The submarine was destroyed on 9th December 1971 when torpedo shots were fired on it, sinking the ship 40 nautical miles off the coast of Diu. At the time of the sinking, there were 18 officers and 176 sailors on board. A memorial was set up to commemorate the brave martyrs comprising of a scaled model of INS Khukri enclosed in a glass case.

The Zampa Gateway is a major landmark hemming the northern part of the town. The bright red painted gateway wall is carved with dedicated angels, lions and a priest with an artificial waterfall adding to its beauty.

Located outside the wall of Diu Fort, the Naida Caves are a group of interlinked caves constructed by the Portuguese featuring a big network of tunnels with square hewn steps that remain completely unexplored. These caves are natural and were formed due to geological irregularities and natural processes and came to light after the Portuguese broke down sections of a huge rock formation they used for construction. The caves also have a natural opening that lets in sunlight, making them photogenic. During Operation Vijay several soldiers of the Indian army were stationed at the Naida Caves.

Sunset Point is a beautiful hillock located near the Chakritirath beach, which offers mesmerising views of the sunset. The hillock and the surrounding areas have been beautifully landscaped and illuminated.

A unique experience of the coastal Saurashtra region is the presence of the Hoka Palm trees. As one drives in and around Diu, the trees which are native to the northern half of Africa and regions of the Arabian Peninsula, commonly called Doum Palm trees can be found in large numbers. Diu is the only region in India where these trees are found. The Hoka trees are unique in their structure, with branches and offshoots emanating from their central trunk. The Hoka seed is a beautiful oval sphere, red in colour, resembling a cricket ball, that hangs high up of the palm-like structure of the trees. It is highly edible and local alcohol, Tadi is prepared using the Hoka seeds.

The Nagoa Beach is a horseshoe-shaped beach surrounded by palm trees with white sands and blue waters and is known for its Hoka trees. The beach extends over an area of 2 km from one end to the other and has amazing sunrises and sunsets. Ghogla Beach is located to the north of Diu town and on the mainland and is not very crowded and therefore comparatively cleaner. Chakratirth Beach is adjacent to the town and holds significance in Hindu mythology for being the site of the beheading of the demon Jalandhar by Lord Krishna. Named after the demon, Jallandhar, the Jallandhar Beach lies about 1 km from Diu town and has a temple dedicated to Goddess Chandrika and a memorial atop a hill with a stone structure of the demon Jallandhar. Located on the western end of Diu in Vanakbara village, and also known as Vanakbara Beach, Gomtimata Beach is secluded and has natural white sand. However, this beach is not safe for swimming as it is prone to high tides. It is named after the Gomtimata Temple dedicated to Devi Gomti.

The area on the mainland borders the Gir Somnath district of Gujarat and contains the village of Ghogola which lies opposite the eastern end of the island. The tiny territory of Simbor or Simar, located about 25 km east of the town of Diu, is also part of the district. The exclave has a very thin population, essentially a floating fishing community for part of the year only. The territory of the present-day exclave of Simbor is the same as it was in the colonial era and consists of two plots of land on either side of the estuary of the Sahil or Vançoso River and an islet at the mouth of the river on which is built the Fort St. Anthony of Simbor. The village of Simbor or Simar which lies about 2 km to the northeast and which in the early days had been occupied by the Portuguese for a brief period is not part of the territory and is part of the state of Gujarat.