Travel Bucket List: India – Maharashtra Part 1

I am in India now and was waiting for this opportunity to share my home state of Maharashtra with you. I have shared about the state in detail previously, so won’t go into too much detail now. You can read that blog post to learn more about the state.

Maharashtra, meaning ‘Great State’ lies in the western part of India and is the third largest state in terms of area in the Indian Union with about 9.36% of India’s land mass and can be compared to Italy in terms of size. If you take population as the parameter, Maharashtra is the second most populous state, having around 16% of India’s population, second only by the northern state of Uttar Pradesh. The state is also the world’s subnational entity and the population of Maharashtra can be compared to that of Mexico. The state’s population is almost evenly divided between urban and rural areas. This is one of the richest and most industrialised states in India, with the state (and especially the city of Mumbai) contributing the highest in terms of GDP to the Indian economy.

Maharashtra was formed by merging the western and south-western parts of the Bombay State, Berar and Vidarbha, and the north-western parts of the Hyderabad State and splitting Saurashtra (in present-day Gujarat) by the States Reorganisation Act. Its capital, Mumbai is the most populous urban area in India. The city of Nagpur hosts the winter session of the state legislature and the city of Pune is known as the ‘Oxford of the East’ due to the presence of several well-known educational institutions. Nashik is known as the ‘Wine Capital of India’ as it has the largest number of wineries and vineyards in the country.

Maharashtra was ruled by the Maurya Empire in the fourth and third centuries BC. Around 230 BC, Maharashtra came under the rule of the Satavahana dynasty for 400 years. The state was also ruled by Western Satraps, Gupta Empire, Gurjara-Pratihara, Vakataka, Kadambas, Chalukya Empire, Rashtrakuta Dynasty, and Western Chalukya before finally, the Yadava ruled the state. In the early 14th century, the Yadava Dynasty, which ruled most of present-day Maharashtra, was overthrown by the Delhi Sultanate ruler Ala-ud-din Khalji. Later, Muhammad bin Tughluq conquered parts of the Deccan, and temporarily shifted his capital from Delhi to Daulatabad in Maharashtra. After the collapse of the Tughluqs in 1347, the local Bahmani Sultanate of Gulbarga took over, governing the region for the next 150 years. After the break-up of the Bahamani sultanate in 1518, Maharashtra split into five Deccan Sultanates and this continued till around the early 17th century when Shahaji Bhosale, an ambitious local general who had served Ahmadnagar Nizamshahi, the Mughals and Adil Shah of Bijapur at different periods during his career, attempted to establish his independent rule. His son Shivaji Maharaj succeeded in establishing the Maratha Empire which was further expanded during the 18th century by the Peshwas (Pune), Bhonsles (Nagpur), Gaekwads (Baroda), Holkars (Indore) and Scindias (Gwalior). At its peak, the Maratha empire covered much of the subcontinent, encompassing a territory of over 2.8 million km². The Marathas are credited to a large extent for ending the Mughal rule in India. The Third Anglo-Maratha War (1817–1818) led to the end of the Maratha Empire and East India Company and then the British ruled the state and India from 1819.

On to exploring more of the state….

Mumbai
We start with the state capital of Mumbai (and my hometown) which will be the starting point for most tourists to the state. Mumbai is the second most populous city in India and fourth most populous city in the world. Mumbai is the financial, commercial and entertainment capital of India. It is also one of the world’s top ten centres of commerce in terms of global financial flow, generating 6.16% of India’s GDP and accounting for 25% of industrial output, 70% of maritime trade in India and 70% of capital transactions to India’s economy. Originally starting life as seven distinct islands, the city of Mumbai is now a huge metropolis which seems to only extend further each year. The city was ceded to the Portuguese by the sultan of Gujarat and then became part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza when she married Charles II of England in 1661. At that point, it came under the control of the East India Company.

The name Mumbai is derived from Mumbā or Mahā-Ambā, the name of the patron goddess of Mumbadevi of the native Koli community. The Portuguese are said to have called Mumbai ‘Bom Baim’ which means ‘Good Bay’ as Mumbai has a very good natural harbour. When the British took over Mumbai through the East India Company, the name became anglicised to Bombay which was then changed officially to Mumbai in 1995 by the then state government.

I’ve written a blog post on unique places to visit in Mumbai, so this post will not talk about those places. Of course the must see places include:

The Gateway of India

The Gateway of India in Colaba, which is a structure built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary of England when they visited India in 1911. This place was also the scene where the last British soldiers left their most prized crown colony after India gained independence in 1947. The Gateway is now iconic and is a representation of the city.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus in Fort is a magnificent heritage building which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and which houses the headquarters of the Central Railway. Fondly called VT (for its erstwhile name of Victoria Terminus), the building was designed by Frederick William Stevens, a British architect and is wonderful example of the Indo-Victorian Gothic architectural style. Construction started in 1787 to mark the Golden Jubilee of Queen Victoria, hence the name. The terminus is extremely important with respect to transportation within the city and beyond. Today, at least 1250 trains leave the station every day from its 14 platforms, carrying around 3.3 million passengers in and out of the city. It is the hub of the suburban (local) railways as well as some of the long distance trains. A major part of the building houses the administrative section of the Central Railways. The building is also beautifully lit up for major festivals and public holidays and is a beautiful sight to see as you walk along DN Road in the Fort area.

Nehru Science Centre

Located in Worli, the Nehru Science Centre is another iconic structure in the Mumbai skyline. It is India’s largest interactive science centres and was first conceived as a Science & Technology Museum in late sixties and took final shape as India’s largest interactive science centre in 1977. A major highlight of Nehru Science Centre is the three-dimensional science show which is named ‘Monsters of the Deep’. It takes people into a seemingly realistic world of the underwater kingdom, where they can see mythical monsters closely. A science odyssey named ‘Grand Canyon Adventure’ is also organised at this centre. This 45-minute film is based on the famous Grand Canyons of Arizona and attempts at spreading awareness about saving freshwater resources of the world. This destination is a must-see for students and aspirants of science.

Hanging Gardens and Kamala Nehru Park

The Hanging Gardens and Kamla Nehru Park which are located in Malabar Hills overlook the stunning Marine Drive. Established in the 1880s, this garden was designed by Ulhas Ghapokar to protect a nearby reservoir from getting polluted and are named Perozeshah Mehta, who is also the father of Mumbai’s Municipal Charter. The garden has a vast area and well-laid pathways. The colourful flower clock at the centre and numerous animal-shaped hedges are the unique features of this park. Situated opposite the Hanging Gardens, Kamla Nehru Park is named after Jawaharlal Nehru’s wife, Kamala Nehru. It extends over an area of about 4,000 square feet and provides a glittering sight of the city of Mumbai. From this garden, one can also enjoy the spectacular sight of the Chowpatty Beach and Marine Drive. The Boot House or Old Woman’s Shoe, completely made up of stone, is another interesting feature of the park. The garden and park are open from 5 am to 9 pm and entrance is free.

Siddhivinayak Temple

The Siddhivinayak Temple in Prabhadevi which was built in 1801, is a temple and God I believe in a lot. No visit to Mumbai is complete for me without a visit to the temple. Most worshippers believe that praying in this temple and sharing your desires to the Lord and his mount will lead to the fulfilment of the wishes and desires.

ISKCON Temple

The ISKCON Temple located near Mumbai’s famous Juhu beach is also known as the Hare Rama Hare Krishna Temple. And is dedicated to Lord Krishna. The temple is one of the 400 ISKCON temples across the world and was built in 1978 under the Hare Krishna Movement founded Bhakti Vedanta Swami Prabhupada aimed to spread Krishna consciousness. The architectural splendour of the ISKCON Temple is worth-seeing. Both, its interior and exterior walls are adorned with murals and sculptures. In the central prayer hall, one will find paintings portraying the incidents from the life of Lord Krishna. The best time to visit the ISKCON Temple is during Krishnastami, which falls in the month of August or September. The temple is free to enter and is open from 4:30 am till 12:30 pm and again from 4:30 to 8:30 pm

Mahalakshmi Temple

The ancient Mahalakshmi Temple dedicated to the Goddess of Wealth, Lakshmi is located at Bhulabai Desai Road. Constructed in 1785, the temple contains idols of the Tridevi goddesses Mahakali, Mahalakshmi, and Mahasaraswati. The main idol of Goddess Mahalakshmi is placed on the far side of the ornamented gate and is seen on a tiger. In the month of March/April and September/October, the Sun rays of rising sun fall on the deities for few minutes. You used to be able to go down a flight of stairs and be able to sit on the rocks at the foot of the temple and contemplate the Arabian Sea, but now it has been cordoned off and you can only view the sea through a gate and some grills. You can also see the Haji Ali Dargah from this vantage point. As with most places of worship, entrance to the temple is free, and the temple remains open from 6 am to 10 pm.

Haji Ali Dargah

The Haji Ali Dargah is a renowned Islamic shrine nestled on a small island close to the sea shore of Worli in Mumbai. The Dargah was constructed in 1431, in the memory of a Muslim saint Sayyed Peer Haji Ali Shah Bukhari. Before his death, he expressed a wish that he wanted his shroud to be immersed in water rather than being buried underground. His followers obeyed his wish and constructed a tomb at the spot where his shroud rested after floating in the sea. Although the original dargah is more than 600 years old, its present structure was built between 1960 and 1964. This shrine witnesses a huge footfall of devotees who come here and offer homage to the saint, irrespective of their religion, caste, creed and social status. This shrine is visited by over 40,000 people on all days, particularly Thursdays and Fridays. The dargah can be reached by a narrow pathway across the Worli bay that connects the shrine with the city. It is just a 500 yard walk for the devotees from the bay to the shrine. The shrine is closed during high tide when walkway goes underwater and is open between 5:30 am and 10 pm.

Babulnath Temple

Located on a small hillock near Girgaum Chowpatty, is one of the oldest temples in Mumbai, the Shri Babulnath Temple. Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the lingams and idols in the temple were originally consecrated in the 12th century by the Hindu king Raja Bhimdev. Over a period of time, the temple was buried and lost. The idols were rediscovered in the 18th century. The temple was patronised by Hindu merchants and Gujarati community in 1780. A bigger temple was built in 1890 by contributions made by the Gujarati merchants. In the year 1900, a tall spire was added to this auspicious temple of Lord Shiva but a lightning strike damaged the spire in the 1960s. The temple is considered very unique and fascinating. It is nearly 1,000 feet above the sea level, and overlooks the Arabian Sea.

Mount Mary Church

The Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, more commonly known as Mount Mary Church, is a Roman Catholic Church located in Bandra. Dedicated to Virgin Mary, the church was built in 1640. Jesuit priests brought the statue of Mary from Portugal and built a chapel in 16th Century. This small basilica was later renovated to its current semi-Gothic form. It was destroyed in 1738 during a raid by the Marathas and then rebuilt in 1761. It is believed that the church has unbelievable healing powers and for this reason, the church is visited by many devotees every day. People who suffer from any disease bring wax figures depicting their illnesses to the Mount Mary Church in the hope that they would be cured. Some also say that those who sincerely pray at the Mount Mary Church often get their wishes fulfilled. The church is popular for a festival of Mother Mary popularly known as Bandra Fair in the month of September. The feast is followed by a week-long celebration and is visited by thousands of people from all faiths. During the Bandra Fair, the entire area is decorated with festoons and buntings. One can get a spectacular view of sunsets from this church. The church is open from 8 am to 8:30 pm from Mondays to Saturdays and from 10 am to 7 pm on Sundays.

Juhu Beach

One of the most popular of Mumbai’s beaches, Juhu beach has been immortalised in countless Bollywood movies. The beach stretches for some six km with the southern end home a number of luxury hotels. The beach is most famous for its street-side food and is a must stop for most tourists in the city.

Chowpatty Beach/Girgaum Chowpatty

Another famous beach in Mumbai, the Chowpatty beach stands at the end of Marine Drive and is a popular haunt of both locals and tourists, especially during the weekends. The beach is famous for its street food and every evening, the beach is crowded by people of all ages, along with food kiosks, ferries and balloon sellers. Tourists can either sit under the shade of stunted trees to relax or taste the flavours of variety of street food. Take a stroll on the golden sands and admire the sunset as you much on the foods that are famous in the city.

Colaba Causeway

Famous for being a shopping paradise, Colaba Causeway was one of the scenes of the terror attack in 2008. It acts as the land link between Colaba and the Old Woman’s Island. From roadside vendors to glamorous boutiques, the street sells everything you can think of buying – in different quality and prices. You can start at the causeway and make your way to the Gateway, shopping and sightseeing as you go along.

Film City

Spread across a vast area of 520 acres, Film City comprises of about twenty indoor studios and is located in the northwestern part of Mumbai. Film City is often regarded as a home of Bollywood. The place is so vast that about 1000 film sets can be erected here simultaneously. Over the years, it has been the locations for a number of Bollywood films. Almost over 900 movies and many more television shows have also been shot here. Today, Film City has grown to be one of the best film studios, well-equipped with all the essential amenities and world-class facilities. Not only is it a great place for film shoots, but it is also filled with verdant greenery and refreshing expanses. Built on the lines of the Film City of California, today it is considered as synonymous to Bollywood. There are various tours available which you can go on to see live shooting as well as the back-end aspects of filmmaking, if you are so inclined.

Sanjay Gandhi National Park


The Sanjay Gandhi National Park, previously known as the Borivali National Park covers approximately 20% of Mumbai’s geographical area and is home to a staggering thirteen hundred species of flora and more than five hundred species of fauna respectively. Covering an area of 104 square kilometers, it is one of Asia’s most visited National Parks with over 2 million visitors every year. The park is also said to be the largest park in the world located within city limits. There are two artificial lakes within the forest thriving with crocodiles and migratory birds all year. The lakes supply drinking water to the city. The park was first introduced in 1974 and helps to have a change from the usual sights, attractions, and rush of the big city. The Sanjay Gandhi National Park is known for its evergreen dense forests, bird population, butterflies, and the small population of tigers. The Kanheri Caves are also located inside the national park and is another reason to visit this sprawling green lung in the concrete jungle that is Mumbai.

Kanheri Caves

Located inside the Sanjay Gandhi National Park on the outskirts of the city in Borivali, the Kanheri Caves constitute a group of rock-cut monuments chiseled out of a massive basaltic rock. The name of these caves has originated from the Sanskrit word Krishnagiri, meaning black in colour. These caves were formed between 1st century BC and 10th century AD, with the earliest rocks comprising 109 tiny rock-cut cells. Most caves were used as Buddhist Viharas in ancient times and were meant for living, study and meditation. The site also served as a university during the rule of the Kushanas and the Mauryas. The Kanheri caves are divided into three different caves, each of which has a stone plinth for a bed. The caves have chaityagrihas with rock-cut stupas where Buddhists worshipped. There are single and multiple celled viharas or monasteries that were abode to Buddhist monks. The caves also had podhis or water cisterns which were dug skillfully to trap rainwater for use during summers. The most distinguished of these caves is Cave 3, which is India’s second largest chaityagriha, after Karla in Pune. The most impressive attractions of these caves are exquisite paintings of Gautam Buddha and a large Buddhist image known as Dagoba. Nearly 51 legible inscriptions and 26 epigraphs are found at Kanheri, which include the inscriptions in Brahmi, Devanagari and 3 Pahlavi epigraphs found in Cave 90. One of the significant inscriptions mentions about the marriage of Satavahana ruler Vashishtiputra Satakarni with the daughter of Rudradaman I. Cave 34 has unfinished paintings of Buddha on the ceiling of the cave. The caves are located about 5 km from the entrance of the Sanjay Gandhi National Park and are a delight for nature lovers with small waterfalls, natural streams and dense forests along with serene surroundings. Visitors must pay entry fees at the park gate and at the cave entrance. Tourists can travel to the park by buses or auto rickshaws. From the main gate one can take vans that shuttle between the main gate and the cave entrance. It is a 15 minutes ride, operated every 20 minutes. The entry fee is Rs. 40 for the national park and Rs. 5 for the caves and the park and Kanheri Caves are open on all days except Mondays with the park open from 7:30 am to 6 pm and the caves open from 9 am to 5 pm.

Mandapeshwar Caves

The Mandapeshwar Caves which means “The Hall of the Lord” were built around 520 by Buddhist Monks. The monks who stayed at the Mandapeshwar Caves would use the caves as a rest stops for merchants and also polytheise when travelling merchants would use the caves as rest stops. After the caves were built, the monks hired some Persian artists travelling through the mountains to paint the interiors. They created magnificent works of art on the walls of the caves that, unfortunately, can barely be seen today. The caves outlived the tests of time but their significance changed over the centuries. Archaeologists discovered that several sculptures of Hindu Gods and Goddesses were created inside the caves during the 8th century. Till the early 18th century, the Mandapeshwar Caves were used by locals, travellers etc. as a place of worship or to rest. In 1739, the Marathas invaded this part of Mumbai and the caves were left deserted. The caves were rediscovered in the 20th century and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

There is much more to Mumbai than what most people think, but then the post about the state becomes a post about the city, so I will stop here. In the next part we will travel to other places in the state.

Poem: Holidays

It’s the year end and most people are either going away on holidays soon or are seriously thinking about it. Schools are done in Singapore and everyday I hear someone going away on holiday. We are too, very soon. So here’s a poem which celebrates holidays!

Holidays

The tickets are booked, the airline seats selected
There’s an air of anticipation, excitement in the blood

A sense of wanderlust takes over
Excitement building up, getting bigger and bigger

You want the days to fly, the holiday to start
Your heart is pumping, you can’t wait to get a headstart

The long awaited day finally is here
You wake up bright and early, with a lot of cheer

You get to the airport and check in
Your boarding pass is in your hand and your face has huge grin

You board the plane and can’t wait for it to take off
The clouds call your name, you just want to blast-off

And then it’s time to land, for you to set foot in your holiday land
Your holiday now begins, the holiday you had planned

Enjoy your holiday, you have earned it to the max
Whatever your choice, it’s your time to kick off and relax

Travel Bucket List: The Philippines – Part 1

One of the countries with the most happy, cheerful and contented people I have seen, the archipelago of the Philippines, consists of about 7,641 islands that are categorized broadly under three main geographical divisions from north to south: Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao. The capital city is called Manila and the most populous city is Quezon City, both part of the larger Metro Manila. Bounded by the South China Sea on the west, the Philippine Sea on the east and the Celebes Sea on the southwest, the Philippines shares maritime borders with Taiwan to the north, Japan to the northeast, Vietnam to the west, Palau to the east, and Malaysia and Indonesia to the south.

The arrival of Ferdinand Magellan, a Portuguese explorer leading a fleet for the Spanish, in Homonhon, Eastern Samar in 1521 marked the beginning of Hispanic colonization. In 1543, Spanish explorer Ruy López de Villalobos named the archipelago Las Islas Filipinas in honour of Philip II of Spain. With the arrival of Miguel López de Legazpi from Mexico City, in 1565, the first Hispanic settlement in the archipelago was established. The Philippines became part of the Spanish Empire for more than 300 years. This resulted in Catholicism becoming the dominant religion. During this time, Manila became the western hub of the trans-Pacific trade connecting Asia with Acapulco in the Americas using Manila galleons. As the 19th century gave way to the 20th, the Philippine Revolution quickly followed, which then spawned the short-lived First Philippine Republic, followed by the bloody Philippine–American War. The war, as well as the ensuing cholera epidemic, resulted in the deaths of thousands of combatants as well as tens of thousands of civilians. Aside from the period of Japanese occupation, the United States retained sovereignty over the islands until after World War II, when the Philippines was recognized as an independent nation. Since then, the unitary sovereign state has often had a tumultuous experience with democracy, which included the overthrow of a dictatorship by a non-violent revolution.

The Philippines has only 2 seasons- wet and dry season. During March to May and even up to June, the weather is hot and humid. From June to November, expect the weather to be rainy and cold. Wet season can start as early as May. The best time to visit the country is around December – January when the weather is not so hot and sultry. The peak season though is the dry and hot season between March and May, when some of the popular beaches experience surges in tourist arrivals, which consequently mean that accommodation prices are jacked up!

The country boasts of some spectacular beaches in addition to other historical town and cities. I have been to Manila a couple of times on work visits, but have not ventured much into the city as well as visited other regions in the country. This country has remained on my bucket list for a while now and hopefully, I aim to visit more soon. The only issue I personally would have would be the lack of vegetarian food in the Philippines. My business trips to Manila made me acutely aware of this problem, but I will make sure I have supplies the next time I visit.

This mini-series will explore each one of the islands in detail in each blog post, starting with the northernmost island division of Luzon (which will be divided into two parts), followed by Visayas and then lastly the southernmost island division of Mindanao.

Luzon
Luzon is the largest and most populous island group in the Philippines. Located in the northern portion of the archipelago, it is the economic and political centre of the nation, being home to the country’s capital city, Manila, as well as Quezon City, the country’s most populous city and contains about 52.5% of the country’s total population.

The Luzon island group includes the Luzon mainland, the Batanes and Babuyan groups of islands to the north, Polillo Islands to the east, and the outlying islands of Catanduanes, Marinduque and Mindoro, among others, to the south.

Northern Luzon
The northern region of the most populated island in the Philippines is where you’ll find mountains, coastlines, tropical forests, and rivers. No sight in this area is more famous than the stunning Banaue Rice Terraces; located near the popular, relatively cool-weather city of Baguio, these terraces are like emerald steps down the hills of the Cordillera Mountains. These share their name with the fascinating and diverse Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR). Further north, in the same mountains, is the area of Sagada, famous for its caving – such as at Sumaguing Cave – and hiking trails amidst misty mountain villages. Find more hiking opportunities in Kalinga Province, with its tattooed, machete-wearing tribespeople; headhunting ceased here just decades ago. Flung off the northern coast of Luzon, nearer to Taiwan than the Philippines, are the Batanes Islands. Here you’ll find rugged cliffs, green hills and half-subterranean, typhoon-proof houses on the main island of Batan.

Central Luzon
Just north of Metro Manila, the region of Central Luzon is known as the rice granary of the Philippines. It’s the largest flat plains area in the country, so there’s plenty of room for agriculture here. There is some elevation, however. The active volcano of Mount Pinatubo in the Zambales Mountains provides hiking opportunities, where keen trekkers can reach the summit and catch sight of its crater lake. Minlungao, with its winding river, is a popular spot for cliff diving or laid-back rafting. On the west coast, the city of Balanga, Bataan province, boasts colonial architecture, old-world splendor at The Plaza Hotel, and a festival to honor the hatching of baby sea turtles at the Pawikan Conservation Centre. Once the capital of the Philippine Republic, Angeles is comparable to Manila, with shopping, nightlife, and colonial history; it’s also the gateway to the Mount Arayat National Park. Surrounded by rice paddies, Mount Arayat boasts valleys and rivers.

Southern Luzon
The southern end of the island of Luzon is made up of two regions: Calabarzon, bordering Metro Manila to the north and east; and the Bicol Region, comprising offshore islands, too. Calabarzon is popular thanks to its proximity to Manila. At Laguna Lake, you can find hot spring resorts, particularly around Mount Makiling. To the south, Batangas province is where you’ll find many beachside resorts and towns scattered with colonial-era churches and buildings. In Batangas, the town of Tagaytay is home to Taal Lake, in the middle of which is Taal Volcano, whose crater hides yet another lake!
Made up of six provinces, Bicol is where you’ll find limestone caves, beaches and a whole host of islands to explore. The symmetrical, almost perfectly conical Mount Mayon, near Legazpi City, is a sacred, active volcano. Elsewhere you’ll discover rough, jagged terrain on the Caramoan Peninsula, the gateway to beaches and lush scenery.

Most travellers will start their exploration of the country and Luzon from the capital city of Manila.

Manila
The Asian megacity of Manila is the capital of the Philippines and a unique blend of the old and the new. From the tall gleaming skyscrapers of the commercial areas of Makati to the old and historic buildings from the Philippines colonial era of Intramuros and old Manila, Manila is, but a microsm glimpse of what a traveller can expect in this country. The city is a blend of its Spanish and American colonial past as well as its indigenous cultures and the immigrant Chinese cultures, all which today present the Filipino identity. Metro Manila is a megalopolis of an urban area. It is composed of 16 cities all converging into one: City of Manila, Quezon City, Caloocan, Las Piñas, Makati, Malabon, Mandaluyong, Marikina, Muntinlupa, Navotas, Parañaque, Pasay, Pasig, San Juan, Taguig, and Valenzuela (and one municipality: Pateros). Located on a narrow isthmus between Central and Southern Luzon, Metro Manila is the center of culture and government for the Philippines. The collection of settlements is pockmarked with Spanish colonial architecture, like the inner walled city of Intramuros, which is filled with Spanish-era architecture including the Manila Cathedral, Fort Santiago and the San Augstin Church, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as mixed with skyscrapers; the City of Manila itself is the most densely populated city proper in the world. Though the vast green space of Rizal Park with its lawns and gardens is a tranquil oasis in the city, it’s also on the shores of Laguna Lake – the Philippines’ largest freshwater lake – and Manila Bay in the east. The riverside forest park of Arro Cerros and Ayala Triangle Gardens make for good urban retreats, too. Beat the tropical heat & shop at Manila’s massive malls. The Metro Manila is home to many of the World’s largest malls including the ever-expanding Mall of Asia, expected to grab the #1 spot by 2021. You can find exciting food and a bustling nightlife scene in cosmopolitan Makati and Bonifacio Global City (BGC) as well as new entertainment districts in the Manila Bay area. Using Manila as a base, you can make day trips to the nearby Corregidor Island, waterfalls in Laguna, Tagaytay/Taal Volcano, Antipolo (view overlooking Metro Manila skyline) & more.

Puerto Galera
Just south of Manila is the charming coastal town of Puerto Galera, well-favoured for its gorgeous beaches, excellent diving spots and wide diversity of marine species. The most popular beaches are White Beach and Sabang Beach, which also offer nearby shopping, dining, nightlife and hotel accommodation. Another popular attraction is the natural harbour of Muelle Bay with its rows of shops, restaurants and bars. Visitors can also go snorkelling to see some of Asia’s best coral reefs or dive among old shipwrecks and hundreds of fish species.

Banuae and Cordilleras’ Rice Terraces
The mountainous terrain of the Philippines’ Cordilleras kept the Spanish colonizers away, allowing the Ifugao of these parts to keep their unique culture alive. Today, buses regularly ply the treacherously curvy roads leading into Banaue – you can now take a nine-hour bus ride from Manila into the mountains, going where conquistadores feared to tread. This top Philippine tourist spot is now featured on the Php 1,000 note. The agricultural engineering system represented here was built 2000 years ago without modern tools by the Ifugao tribes and passed on from generation to generation, these magnificent farm terraces resemble giant steps reaching up to the sky. Though the serene and impressive flats would be enough to make this a must-see, the spectacular wood-carved rice guardians make the trip even more worthwhile. The ancient, crude sculptures are reminiscent of tikis, and believed to protect the crops from harm. Though tourism has brought the Western world to an ancient way of life and created a large tourist market here, there are opportunities to visit less touristy towns whose rice crops are still the main staple of their economy for those seeking a more authentic experience. Hike around the UNESCO World Heritage sites and you’ll find a way of life that revolves around rice. You’ll also walk some pretty challenging hiking trails that plunge steeply down mountainsides and right alongside sheer cliff faces. Don’t forget to look around you – the sight of the rice terraces surrounding you will be one you will cherish long after you are back home.

We will cover more of the Philippines and especially Luzon in the next blog post

Travel Bucket List – India: Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh Part 3

I was initially planning to do Ladakh along with Jammu, but now that Ladakh is a Union Territory, I thought it deserved a blog post all of its own. So from Jammu, we travel eastwards towards Ladakh.

A contentious region disputed by India, Pakistam and China, the erstwhile Buddhist Kingdom of Ladakh will now become a Union Territory of India. It extends from the Siachen Glacier in the Karakoram range to the main Great Himalayas to the south and is one of the most sparsely populated regions in India. The culture and history of Ladakh is closely related to that of Tibet, who is its neighbour to the east. Ladakh is renowned for its remote mountain beauty and culture.

Leh
The former capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, the seat of which was in the Leh Palace, Leh is the starting point for adventures in the region. The Leh Palace, which was the former mansion of the royal family of Ladakh, was built in the same style and about the same time as the Potala Palace in Tibet. Leh is at an altitude of 3,524 metres and is connected via National Highway 1 to Srinagar in the southwest and to Manali in the south via the Leh-Manali Highway.

The old town of Leh was added to the World Monuments Fund’s list of 100 most endangered sites due to increased rainfall from climate change and other reasons. Neglect and changing settlement patterns within the old town have threatened the long-term preservation of this unique site

Leh Palace
Bearing a passing similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet, the nine-storey sand-coloured Leh Palace also known as ‘Lhachen Palkhar’ is Leh’s dominant structure and architectural icon. It took shape under 17th-century king Singge Namgyal but has been essentially unoccupied since the Ladakhi royals were stripped of power and shuffled off to Stok in 1846. The palace offers marvellous panoramic views of the entire town of Leh as well as that pf the Stok Kangri and Zanskar mountains of the Himalayan ranges.

Even though a considerable part of the Leh Palace is now in ruins due to the Kashmiri invasion that took place in the 19th century, the stately palace continues to remain a stunning place to explore. The stunning statue of Buddha at the back of this palace adds more to the charm of this place. Today the sturdy walls enclose some photo exhibition spaces and a small prayer room, but the most enjoyable part of a visit is venturing to the uppermost rooftops for the view.

Interesting structures ranged around the palace’s base include the prominent Namgyal Stupa, the colourfully muralled Chandazik Gompa and Soma Gompa, once home to the monastic printing press. Also nearby is the 1430 Chamba Lhakhang, with its colourful three-storey Buddha and medieval mural fragments. Don’t count on any of these being open though.

The majestic palace is presently under the Archaeological Survey of India, which is working on renovating the ancient structures of that era and striving to keep intact the history of the Namgyal dynasty in Leh.

Thiksey Gompa
Glorious Thiksey Gompa is one of Ladakh’s biggest and most recognisable monasteries, photogenically cascading down a raised rocky promontory. Snuggled at an altitude of 11,800 feet, this monastery is looked after by the people of Yellow Hat (Gelugpa) sect. It comprises a 12-story building complex and houses more than 500 monks. Thiksey has a large and precious collection of Buddhist books, journals, statues, scripts, stupas, swords, and Thangka paintings.

At its heart, the main dukhang (prayer hall) oozes atmosphere, and a Maitreya temple contains a giant future Buddha who wears an exquisitely ornate crown. More obviously ancient is the gonkhang and the tiny old library up on the rooftop (often closed).

The Thiksey entrance ticket includes entry to a fascinating museum – it’s hidden beneath the monastery restaurant so ask the manager for the key. Prayers take place in the assembly hall between 6am and 7.30am most days and visitors are welcome.

Pangong Lake
The famous and sparkling blue Pangong lake is situated approximately at the height of 4350 meters. This endorheic lake is 12 kilometres long and extends from India to Tibet, with two-thirds of it lying in the latter. Owing to its altitude, the Pangong Lake temperature ranges from -5°C to 10°C as a result of which it freezes completely during winters in spite of its salinity. A unique feature of the lake is that it does not remain blue throughout the year or even the day, rather it changes colours from azure to light blue to green and grey too!

Also known as Pangong Tso, the sublime beauty, crystal waters and gentle hills are example of the beautiful landscape of the region. There are two streams from the Indian side that form the wetlands and marshes at the edges.

Magnetic Hill
The popular Magnetic Hill of Ladakh is said to be a gravity hill where vehicles defy the force of gravity and move upwards on the hill when parked at the marked location. The hill lies at a distance of 30 km from the town of Leh, at an elevation of around 14,000 feet above sea level. To the eastern side of the hill flows the Sindhu River, originating in Tibet and is an almost essential stopover for all those who travel to Ladakh. An optical illusion or actuality, the Magnetic Hill in Ladakh has mysterious magnetic properties that draw tourists from across the globe.

The science behind the phenomenon is unknown but it has been observed that if you leave your vehicle at the base of the hill with the brakes unlocked, it will start moving uphill slowly on its own. Many theories have emerged as to why Magnetic Hill may be a simple illusion or how it may actually be a great discovery and one of the Earth’s many geological wonders. It is believed that the absence of a visible horizon and the backdrop scenery make a faint downwards sloping stretch appear to be an upward slope, creating the illusion of the vehicles moving upwards.

Nubra Valley and Khardung La Pass
Located in the Silk Route, the Nubra Valley, a tri-armed valley with sand dunes in the middle of the Himalayas lies towards the northeast, around 140 km from Leh. The valley is situated where River Shyok and River Siachen meet. The area is also famous for its two-humped Bactarian camels.

In order to enter the Nubra valley, you need to pass through Khardung La, which is one of the highest motorable roads in the world and hand over the photocopies of your travel permits to the soldiers in the Khardung la pass, as the region is currently under military supervision because the road further leads to the Siachen base camp which happens to be the highest battlefield in the world.

Kargil
Known for the India-Pakistan war of 1999, Kargil, located at an altitude of approximately 2,800 m above sea level has now become a very peaceful tourist destination with historical importance. It is the second largest town in Ladakh, situated on the banks of Indus River. Connected to the Zojila Pass, Kargil holds important place in the history of India. A number of monasteries and the Kargil War Memorial are worth a visit. If by any chance you get the opportunity, do take a night’s break in one of the military camps and listen to those amazing war stories from the army people themselves.

Excursion can be made to Drass and see features like Tolo-ling, Mushkoh Valley and Tiger Hill. A short walk to Goma Kargil provides breathtaking views. Mulbekh Gompa, Shergol, Urgyen Dzong and Wakha Rgyal are prime attractions of Kargil.

Drass
Reckoned to be India’s coldest and world’s second coldest place, Drass is situated 60kms away from Kargil. Located at the base of Zojila Pass, which connect Kashmir and Ladakh, Drass is also dubbed as the Gateway to Ladakh. The best time to visit here is during spring and summers, when the snow melts and the greenery returns. Visit the Drass war memorial, which is also known as Kargil war memorial. Drass is also a base for a trek to beautiful Suru Valley.

Hemis High Altitude Wildlife Sanctuary
Located about 45kms away from Leh and situated on the western bank of River Indus, the Hermis Wildlife Sanctuary extends in a 600 sq km of area and provides shelter to many rare species like the snow leopards and bharals. At an altitude ranging from 3,300 m to 6,000 m above sea level, this sanctuary is known to be the highest in the world as well as the largest park of South Asia. It is also a habitat to the rare Snow Leopards. Other than these, also spot here, Ibex, shapu, bharal and amongst various others. With several alpine and steppe trees along with shrubs spreading over the valley bottoms, and 73 varieties of registered birds residing in this place, it tends to be a tempting landscape for forest and nature walks.

You can also visit the spectacular Hemis Monastery, which is the largest monastery in Ladakh which lies in the town of Hermis.

Lamayuru
Lamayuru is a small village situated midway between Kargil and Leh on NH1-D also known as the Srinagar- Leh Highway. It is situated 100 km ahead of Leh, after Fotu La- the highest pass on the Srinagar-Leh Highway. Known as the ‘place of freedom’ and housing the oldest and one of the largest monasteries in Ladakh region, Lamayuru is immensely famous for a Tibetan Buddhist Monastery located nearby. However, its claim to fame is accredited to the surreal breathtaking view of moonlike landscapes carved into the mountains. A large lake long ago dried up and the protrusions looked like the surface of the moon. Also take a look at the aesthetic fresco paintings which are also found in the houses of the locals.

Lake Tso Moriri
The lesser known of the many lakes within the Changtang Wildlife sanctuary, Tso Moriri lake is a twin to the Pangong Lake. This lake offers a scenic place of peace and tranquillity, measuring about 28 km in length from north to south, and about 100 feet average in depth. The enchanting Tso Moriri lake is surrounded by barren hills, with the backdrop of beautiful snow-covered mountains. Since this is the lesser known of the two lakes, the crowd is less too. Tucked away in the remotest parts of the country makes Tsi Moriri a perfect star gazing sight rendering a complete mind-stirring site.

Tso Moriri has been declared as a wetland reserve. A number of species of birds included bare-headed goose, the great-crested grebe, the Brahmin duck and the brown-headed gull. Himalayan hares are abundantly found here. Moriri Tso is also called the ‘mountain lake’, owing to the peaks that surround it, towering at a height of 2000 meters, shutting it off from the outside world.

I hope you liked reading this series on Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh as much as I loved writing it. This are real bucket list places for me and I do hope I make it there before I die!

Travel Bucket List – India: Jammu, Kashmir and Ladakh Part 2

After visiting Kashmir, let’s go slightly south to visit the province of Jammu.

Jammu
The winter capital of the erstwhile state and protected and blessed by Mata Vaishno Devi, who seems to have found her earthly abode on the Trikuta Hills, Jammu City is almost a sacred place to visit. Dubbed the city of temples, this city brims with grand ancient temples and beautiful palaces.

Nestled against the backdrop of the snow-capped Pir Panjal Mountains, the region of Jammu constitutes the southernmost unit of the state of Jammu & Kashmir. It forms part of the transition between the Himalayan range in the north and the dusty plains of Punjab in the south. Between these two extremities lie a series of scrub-covered hills, forested mountain ranges and river valleys, encompassing several microclimatic regions that extend from Kishtawar in the north-east to Akhnoor in the south-west, and the historic town of Poonch in the north-west to the borders of Kangra (Himachal Pradesh) in the south-east. The Shivalik hills cut across the area from the east to the west while the rivers Ravi, Tawi and Chenab cut their way through the region.

The unmatched divinity at Raghunath temple, Ranbireshwar temple, Mahamaya temple, Peer Baba and Peer Khoh invigorates visitors. One must visit the Bahu temple, which is situated inside the majestic Bahu Fort. The temple is dedicated to presiding deity of Jammu, Goddess Kali or Bawe Wali Mata as she is popularly called in the region. Besides the temple, a travel enthusiast can witness architectural grandeur of Bahu Fort and Mubarak Mandi Palace. The Aquarium at Bagh-e-Bahu (Bahu Fort) also catches the eyes of the tourists as it is the largest underground aquarium in the country.

Jammu was founded by Raja Jambu Lochan in 14th century, when he constructed Bahu fort on the banks of river Tawi. There also have been excavations found 32 km away from Jammu, in the city of Akhnoor which suggest that Jammu was once a part of Harappan Civilization as well. Remains from Maurya and Gupta dynasties have been found, followed by the invasions by Mughals and Sikhs. The Dogra rule brought back the glory to the city. After the partition of India, Jammu continued to be the official winter capital of the state.

Patnitop
Perched on a hilltop at an altitude of 2024m, with endless meadows and panoramic views of the snow capped peaks of the Himalayas, Patnitop is the best place to experience nature at its picturesque best. With views of the Shivalik Range, the area has a plethora of activities like skiing and trekking as well as water springs.

Visit Gaurikund, which not only holds great spiritual value, but you can also see the holy Kailash Mountain. A leisure walk to the Pine forest is ideal for the nature lovers. At Shivgarh, you can enjoy a spot of trekking at Shivgarh and paragliding, abseiling (rappelling), rock climbing and camping at Sanasar. At a little distance from Patnitop, there is a village called Kud that is famed for multitude varieties of sweets, so enjoy and don’t worry about calories!

Rajouri
The refuge of several Gujjars and Bakerwalas, Rajouri is situated around 154kms away from Jammu. The district shares border with Pakistan and is blessed with many charming places to visit; Dehra Ki Gali, Thanamandi and Kotranka Budhal are few places that are apt for sightseeing. One can retire to these remote places in summers as the weather remains pleasant here all year round. The magnificent Rajauri Fort, Balidan Bhavan, Dhanidhar Fort and Rama Temple are few places that can be visited in the vicinity of Rajouri.

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Udhampur
Named after Raja Udham Singh, Udhampur city is the second-largest city in Jammu region. Set amidst lush green surroundings and fringed by eucalyptus trees, Udhampur is one of the best tourist attractions in Jammu & Kashmir. A delight for history lovers, the city offers many relics dating back to the time of epic of Mahabharata. The Krimachi group of temples are said to be the oldest structures in the city. Udhampur is also famous for the underground river Devika, which is considered the sister of Ganga. Visit the Ramnagar fort, located approximately 40kms from Udhampur and built by Raja Suchet Singh. Moungri Cave shrine, Pingla Mata and Sudh Mahadev temple are other prominent places that must be visited in Udhampur.

Kathua
Owing to the existence of a large number of Sufi shrines, Kathua is dubbed as the City of Sufis. True to its title, Kathua houses several religious places including Jasrota temple (inside Jasrota fort), Mata Sundrikote, Mata Bala Sundri, Sapt Sarober and Airwan temple. It is ideal to pay homage to one of these sacred places as in to understand the spirituality prevailing in Kathua. A recreation park called Dream has also been set up in Kathua promising an enthralling rafting experience. The Ujh Barrage located 20kms away from Kathua is an idyllic picnic spot. History buffs can also visit the Jasrota Fort to witness the grandeur built by Maharaja Ranbir Singh. Also the temple of Maha Kali in the Jasrota village has emerged as a popular pilgrimage centre in the region.

Katra and Vaishno Devi
It is often seen that whenever Katra is discussed; it is referred merely as a base camp for devotees who visit Vaishno Devi. Katra is worth visiting, even if you are not on a pilgrimage, because attractions like the Banganga, the Chenab river, and a large amount of peaks around offer great places for mountain climbing and family outings.

The shrine of Vaishno Devi, one of the most important places of worship in India calls the little town of Katra its home. Located in Trikuta hills, 13 km from Katra at the height of 1560 m above sea level this town is the holy cave temple of Mata Vaishnodevi. This famous shrine is a beacon for millions of devotees from all over the world. Popularly known as Mata Rani, Vaishno Goddess is a manifestation of the Hindu Goddess Durga. It is believed that during the pooja and Aarti, Goddesses arrive at the Holy cave to pay their respect to Mata Rani. Devotees believe goddess herself calls the devotees to reach here.

Thousands of pilgrims visit each year to seek blessings and show unflinching faith in this temple. Vaishno Devi is a religious trekking destination where pilgrims walk about 13 km uphill to reach the little caves which are among one of the 108 Shakti Peetha. It takes about 6 to 9 hours depending on the fitness, age and weather conditions. Ponies and palanquins, as well as helicopter services, are available by various vendors to take you there at the top.

The pilgrimage route is only complete when Shiv Khori, 1.6 km away from Vaishno Devi is also visited. Shiv Khori is second to Vaishno Devi in religious value and is famed for its 4ft tall naturally formed Shiva Linga.

Kishtwar
Kishtwar is another gem from the crown of Jammu & Kashmir. Situated approximately 255kms away from Jammu city, Kishtwar is surrounded with lofty mountains and dense deodar and pine forests. Situated on a plateau above chenab river and below the nagin sheer glacier, Kishtwar has saffron growth in a limited time and its harvesting is accompanied by ceremonies and festivals, this is typically during summer.

There is a 400 sq km National Park in Kishtwar called Kishtwar National Park. Spread over an area of 400 sq.km the park contains 15 mammal species including the musk deer and Himalayan black and brown bear. Even though Kishtwar is not the only high altitude wildlife sanctuary, it is made special because of its large variety of flora and fauna. There are also two sacred voyages namely, Machail Yatra and Sarthal Yatra that begins from Kishtwar.