Festivals of India: Jaisalmer Desert Festival

An annual festival that takes place in the heart of the Thar Desert, the Jaisalmer Desert Festival is a mesmerising celebration that transports one to a world where time stands still and the desert comes alive with the vibrant spirit of Rajasthan.

Nestled on the westernmost frontier of India, Jaisalmer is a city like no other. Its honey-coloured fort, rising majestically from the desert floor, earns it the moniker Golden City. As the gateway to the Thar Desert, Jaisalmer has a rich history steeped in tales of valour, trade, and the sands. The Desert Festival is held every year during the Hindu month of Magh, three days before the full moon. The festival is celebrated in the dunes of Sam, about 42 km from the city.

The Desert Festival kicks off with a regal procession through the narrow lanes of Jaisalmer. Bedecked camels, adorned with traditional finery, lead the way, followed by local musicians, dancers, and colourfully dressed locals. The rhythmic beats of folk music and the twirl of traditional dancers create an enchanting symphony that resonates across the dunes. From the energetic Kalbeliya dance to the soulful tunes of Manganiyar musicians, every performance reflects the vibrancy and diversity of Rajasthan’s artistic legacy.

The undulating dunes surrounding Jaisalmer set the stage for one of the festival’s highlights—the Camel Safari. Visitors can embark on a journey into the heart of the Thar Desert, accompanied by skilled guides who regale them with tales of desert life. The surreal landscape, shifting hues with the changing light, creates a canvas of unparalleled beauty.

One of the most anticipated events is the Battle of the Bands—a showcase of traditional Rajasthani music. Local musicians engage in friendly competition, captivating audiences with their skilful performances on instruments like the dholak, sarangi, and khartaal.

In a nod to the region’s proud heritage, the festival hosts a lively moustache competition. Men from far and wide showcase their elaborate facial hair in categories that celebrate the artistry and individuality of Rajasthani moustaches. It’s a spirited contest that adds a touch of whimsy to the cultural festivities.

Turbans, or pagris, are an integral part of Rajasthani attire, symbolising honour and pride. The turban-tying competition invites participants to showcase their skill in creating elaborate headgear. Each turban tells a story, with colours and styles representing a wearer’s community, occupation, or personal history.

The narrow lanes of Jaisalmer come alive with street performances, puppet shows, and magic acts. The vibrant bazaars, adorned with traditional crafts and textiles, become a playground for artists, capturing the imaginations of locals and visitors alike.

No festival is complete without a culinary journey, and the Desert Festival is no exception. Visitors are treated to a feast of Rajasthani delicacies, each dish a testament to the region’s rich culinary heritage. From the aromatic Dal Baati Churma to the indulgent Ghevar, the festival is a gastronomic adventure that tantalises the taste buds.

Beyond the festivities, the Desert Festival offers a unique opportunity to experience the desert lifestyle. Traditional desert camps, known as ‘khudde,’ provide a glimpse into the daily lives of desert dwellers. Visitors can participate in workshops on traditional crafts, learn the art of tie-dyeing, and engage with local artisans, creating memories that extend beyond the festival’s vibrant days.

For photography enthusiasts, the Jaisalmer Desert Festival is a visual feast. The stark beauty of the desert, juxtaposed with the riot of colours from traditional attire and festivities, creates a surreal panorama. Sunrise and sunset over the dunes offer photographers a canvas to capture the changing hues of the landscape.

The Desert Festival attracts a significant influx of visitors. Planning accommodations and travel well in advance ensures a seamless experience amid the festivities. The desert sun can be intense. Sunscreen, hats, and sunglasses are essential to staying protected while exploring the dunes and attending outdoor events. Jaisalmer’s cobbled streets and the sandy dunes require comfortable footwear. Whether exploring the city or venturing into the desert, sturdy shoes are a must. Respect local customs and traditions. Seek permission before photographing people, especially during religious ceremonies or private moments. The desert climate can be dehydrating. Carry a reusable water bottle to stay hydrated, especially during camel safaris and outdoor events.

After being at the Desert Festival in Jaisalmer, visitors take back with them memories etched in the sands of time. The vibrant tapestry of culture, music, and camaraderie experienced amid the Thar Desert is not merely a festival; it is an experience of a lifetime. A journey that transcends time echoes the folk music, the vibrant hues of turbans, and the enchanting dance of the desert winds that linger long after the festival tents come down and visitors have gone back to their humdrum lives.

Festivals of India: Medaram Jatara

The world’s largest festival for tribals, the Medaram Jatra, is held every two years over four days and, in the last decade, has become a major pilgrimage. The festival is held in the Medaram village of Tadvai Mandal, deep in the heart of the thick forests of the Mulugu district in the state of Telangana. Declared a state festival in 1998, the Jathra will take place between February 21 and 24 this year.

Pilgrims make their way to this tiny village whose population otherwise does not exceed 300, but during the jathra, it swells to almost ten million from Telangana, Andhra Pradesh, Orissa, Maharashtra and Madhya Pradesh to pay their respects and pray to the deities Sammakka and Saralamma.

The origins of the Medaram Jatara are shrouded in legend and mythology, tracing back to the valiant tale of Sammakka and Saralamma—the revered tribal deities of the region. The Jathara commemorates the fight of a mother and daughter, Sammakka and Saralamma, with the reigning rulers against an unjust law. According to folklore, Sammakka, a fearless warrior queen of the Koya tribe, waged a fierce battle against injustice and tyranny, ultimately sacrificing her life to protect her people. In her honour, a grand temple was erected in Medaram, where pilgrims flock to seek blessings and offer prayers to this day. It is believed that after the Kumbha Mela, the Medaram Jathara attracts the largest number of devotees in the country. It is celebrated in Medaram during the time the goddesses of the tribals are believed to visit them. Medaram is a remote place in the Eturnagaram Wildlife Sanctuary, a part of Dandakaranya, the largest surviving forest belt in the Mulugu.

There are many legends about the miraculous powers of Sammakka. According to a tribal story, in the 13th century, some tribal leaders who went hunting found a newborn girl, aka Sammakka, emitting enormous light while playing amidst tigers. She was taken to their home. The head of the tribe adopted her and brought her up as a chieftain. When she came of age, she was married to Pagididda Raju, a feudatory tribal chief of the Kakatiyas, who ruled the country of Andhra from Warangal City between 1000 AD and 1380 AD. She was blessed with two daughters and one son, namely Sarakka, Nagulamma and Jampanna, respectively.

The festival has no Vedic or Brahmanic influence. Until 1998, the only way to reach Medaram was by a bullock cart. In 1998 the state government declared the 1000-yr-old festival official and laid down a motorable road. In recent times the gatherings in the Jathara are roughly near 10 million. The traffic jam during the festival sometimes goes as far as 60 km on the Warangal highway.

Jampanna Vagu is a tributary of the River Godavari. According to history, Jampanna is the tribal warrior and the son of the tribal goddess Sammakka. Jampanna Vagu took his name as he died in a battle fighting against the Kakatiyan army in the stream. The Jampanna vagu is still red, marked with the blood of Jampanna, though scientifically the red colour of the water is attributed to the soil composition. Tribals believe that taking a holy dip in the red water of Jampanna Vagu reminds them of the sacrifice of their Gods who will save them and also induces courage into their souls. There is a bridge constructed on top of Jampanna Vagu, known as Jampanna Vagu Bridge.

At the heart of the Medaram Jatara are the sacred rituals and traditions that define the festival’s essence. From the ceremonial installation of the gaddelu—wooden poles adorned with sacred symbols—to the ritualistic offering of jaggery and bangaram (jaggery and gold) at the feet of the deity, each gesture is imbued with deep spiritual significance.

The first day of the festival is celebrated as the arrival of Saralamma onto the Medaram Gaddhe or platform. Saralamma was the daughter of Sammakka. Saralamma is installed in a temple at Kannepalli, a small village near Medaram. In the morning pujaris perform pujas secretly. The unmarried women and men, those who want to have children and those who are suffering from diseases perform special pujas to Saralamma on this day. The villages of Kannepalli perform Aarti and organise a grand farewell to Saralamma. From there, the idol of Saralamma is brought to Medaram Gaddhe through the Jampanna Vaagu and after arriving at the Gaddhe, Saralamma is worshipped with special pujas and other rituals.

Day 2 of the Jathra is celebrated as the arrival of Sammakka on the Medaram Gaddhe. Sammakka is welcomed amidst the official homage from the police and government. On this day, pujaris bring bamboo sticks and place them on the Gaddhe. Amidst the protection and official homages of police, Pujaris bring Sammakka to the Gaddhe. Sammakka is usually installed at Chilukala Gutta in the form of a Kumkuma Bharina. Sammakka is the presiding deity of Medaram Sammakka Saralamma Jathara At Chilukala Gutta, as the indication of the arrival of Sammakka, the district Superintendent of Police fires his gun thrice in the air and inaugurates the bali to please Sammakka. Amidst the slogans praising Sammakka, pujaris bring the deity onto Gaddhe.

On the 3rd day of the Medaram Jathara, devotees and pilgrims can finally have a glimpse of their beloved deities. After taking a bath in the Jampanna Vaagu, devotees visit the Goddesses and offer various offerings to Sammakka and Saralamma. Women offer Odi Biyyam or sacred rice and saare which is a combination of necessary daily items to the Goddesses. The third day is the busiest one among the four festival days. The important offering in Sammakka Sarakka Jathara is Bangaram or jaggery which is offered as gold to the Goddesses.

The 4th day, which is the last day of the jathra is celebrated as Vana Pravesham of Sammakka and Sarakka. After getting worshipped the goddesses return to the forest. The day marks the conclusion of the 4-day Sammakka Saralamma Jathara. The same security and the official homage they have got while arriving on the platform are paid to the Goddesses while returning to the forest.

The Medaram Jatara is not just a religious pilgrimage but a celebration of Telangana’s rich cultural heritage. Traditional folk dances, music performances, and theatrical presentations captivate audiences, transporting them to a bygone era of rustic charm and rural splendour. In recent years, efforts have been made to promote environmental sustainability and conservation during the festival. Initiatives such as waste management, water conservation, and tree plantation drives aim to mitigate the ecological impact of the massive congregation while preserving the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape.

With the growing influx of pilgrims and visitors, there is a pressing need for infrastructure development to accommodate the increasing footfall. Investments in road networks, sanitation facilities, and accommodation options can enhance the pilgrim experience while ensuring the sustainable growth of the festival. As the Medaram Jatara embraces modernity, there is a delicate balance to be struck between tradition and innovation. Efforts must be made to preserve the authenticity of the festival’s rituals and traditions while embracing opportunities for cultural exchange and enrichment.

The Medaram Jatara stands as a symbol of faith, resilience, and cultural identity. In an era of rapid change and upheaval, the festival stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the tribals of not just Telangana, but also the neighbouring states.

In My Hands Today…

The Silent Coup: A History of India’s Deep State – Josy Joseph

‘They were not expected to behave like the terrorists they were hunting. Even in the thickest fog of war, the law-abider and the law-breaker must be distinguished.’

India is justly proud of a parliamentary democracy that has never been threatened by a military coup. This is no mean feat in a neighbourhood where coups are common and notions of constitutionality are shaky. However, for decades now, India’s democratic standing has been steadily declining. An international analysis recently rated the country as only ‘partly free’, while another deemed it an ‘electoral autocracy’.

Josy Joseph investigates this decline and comes away with a key insight: that the process of confronting militancy has warped the system. As insurgencies erupted across India and grew increasingly sophisticated in the 1980s and ’90s, the security establishment struggled to keep up. Increasingly overwhelmed, the police forces, intelligence agencies, federal investigation agencies, tax departments, and the like came up with ingenious—at times sinister—solutions, from faking and framing evidence to staging massive terror attacks and even creating terrorist organisations. Over time, militancy became a flourishing, multi-faceted business enterprise.

From the Kashmiri militancy to the Sri Lankan civil war, from the attack on Mumbai to the long-term unrest in the Northeast, India’s ‘war on terror’ has made its security institutions more nationalistic and chauvinistic and, inevitably, more corrupt. Most dangerously, there is a near-complete capture of the security apparatus, whether investigative agencies, police, or intelligence, by the political executive—serving as stormtroopers with no accountability rather than as defenders of the Constitution.

The result of more than two decades of reporting on insurgencies, terrorism, and the security establishment, The Silent Coup is a wake-up call to the nation. You do not need a military coup to subvert democracy, Joseph says—in India, it has already been subverted.

In My Hands Today…

Nawabs, Nudes, Noodles: India through 50 Years of Advertising — Ambi Parameswaran

This is as much the story of Indian advertising as it is about India. Ad veteran Ambi Parameswaran looks at how advertising has evolved, reflecting the country’s culture, politics, and economy in the last fifty years.

From sartorial taste and food habits to marriage and old age, music and language to celebrities and censorship, Ambi examines over a hundred ads to study how the Indian consumer has changed in the past five decades and how advertising and society have shaped each other.

Combining anecdotes and analyses to give us a slice of modern history, Ambi evaluates the relationship between affluence, aspiration, and desire in India. Exploring trends and impacts, he covers the ads that captured the imagination of the entire country. From ‘Only Vimal’ and ‘Jai Jawan Jai Kisan’ to ‘Jo biwi se kare pyaar’ and the controversial Tuffs Shoes campaign, the book is a memorable journey through brands, consumers, and the world of advertising.

In My Hands Today…

Lady Doctors: The Untold Stories of India’s First Women in Medicine – Kavitha Rao

At a time when medicine is a highly sought-after career for Indian women, it is hard to imagine what it was like for the pioneers. The story of how firmly they were bound in fetters of family, caste, and society and how fiercely they fought to escape needs to be told. In Lady Doctors, Kavitha Rao unearths the extraordinary stories of six women from the 1860s to the 1930s who defied the idea that they were unfit for medicine by virtue of their gender.

From Anandibai Joshi, who broke caste rules by crossing an ocean, to Rukhmabai Raut, who escaped a child marriage, divorced her husband, and studied to be a doctor; from Kadambini Ganguly, who took care of eight children while she worked, to child widow Haimabati Sen, who overcame poverty and hardship—these women had a profound and lasting impact. And in their forgotten lives lie many lessons for modern women.

In truth, the compelling stories of these radical women have been erased from our textbooks and memories because histories have mostly been written by men, about men. In an immensely readable narrative and with impeccable research, Lady Doctors rectifies this omission.