Festivals of India: Ganga Sagar Mela

The Ganga Sagar Mela is one of India’s grandest and most spiritually charged festivals, taking place at the holy confluence of the Ganges River and the Bay of Bengal on Sagar Island, West Bengal. The festival attracts millions of devotees, saints, and tourists who gather to seek purification, find salvation, and celebrate.

The Ganga Sagar Mela is deeply rooted in Hindu mythology and legendary stories that have been passed down over millennia. The saga begins with King Sagar, whose 60,000 sons were cursed and reduced to ashes by Sage Kapil after mistaking him for a thief during their quest for a sacrificial horse. The souls of these princes could not attain moksha or liberation, leading their descendant King Bhagirath to undertake intense penance to bring the river Ganga from the heavens to earth. However, Ganga’s descent was so powerful that it threatened to destroy the earth. Lord Shiva agreed to absorb her mighty force in his matted locks or jata, allowing her to flow gently onto the world. Ganga finally touched earth at Gangotri, but it was at Sagar Island, where her waters merge with the Bay of Bengal, that Bhagirath was able to perform the necessary rites and liberate the souls of his ancestors. This epic tale is the heart of Ganga Sagar’s spiritual significance, and the location itself derives its name from King Sagar. The Ganges River is also called Bhagirathi in honour of King Bhagirath’s perseverance and devotion.

Various stories and beliefs enhance the festival’s allure. Local myth holds that a bath in the Ganga Sagar during Makar Sankranti washes away one’s sins and bestows salvation. It is believed that the Kapil Muni temple marks the exact spot where Sage Kapil meditated and the fateful incident with King Sagar’s sons occurred. The Mahabharata also references the importance of bathing at Ganga Sagar for spiritual merit, further entrenching its sacred reputation.

The Mela is celebrated with vital Hindu rituals, vibrant displays of spirituality, and a remarkable atmosphere of devotion. The central ritual is the holy dip, the Ganga Snan, in the river at sunrise on Makar Sankranti, which usually falls on 14 or 15 January each year. Pilgrims believe that submerging themselves in the sacred waters cleanses their souls and removes accumulated karma, paving the way for moksha. The dip is followed by prayers and offerings to Lord Surya, the Sun God and to the river goddess herself. After the bath, devotees visit the Kapil Muni Temple to offer prayers and seek blessings. Special pujas and arati ceremonies are conducted in the temple, commemorating Sage Kapil’s role in the legend. Other notable rituals include the lighting of diyas or oil lamps and the chanting of Sanskrit hymns at the riverbanks.

The festival attracts an immense number of ascetics, sadhus, and yogis, who set up camps and perform devotional chants, bhajans, and spiritual discourses. The presence of Naga sadhus, ascetic warriors, often draws attention due to their austere practices and distinctive appearance. Ganga Sagar Mela is not just a religious gathering; it’s a vibrant cultural fair with stalls selling offerings, handicrafts, spiritual artefacts, and local cuisine. The fairgrounds are abuzz with devotional songs, dance, and performances, showcasing the cultural heritage of Bengal. Charity and almsgiving, or daan, is considered highly auspicious, and devotees distribute food, clothing, and basic commodities to the needy. The observance of Shraddhas, which are the rituals for ancestors, by priests and devotees are an echo of Bhagirath’s original rites.

In recent years, Ganga Sagar Mela has grown exponentially, now welcoming millions, making it the second-largest Hindu festival after the Kumbh Mela. Local government and organisations facilitate safe logistics, tent accommodation, security, and healthcare for the multitude of pilgrims. Special transport arrangements, temporary shelters, and emergency medical services ensure smoother experiences amid the surge of crowds.

The festival is a magnificent tapestry of faith, unity, and tradition, representing the enduring power of mythology in the modern age. The Ganga Sagar Mela celebrates liberation from the cycle of reincarnation, a fundamental concept in Hindu philosophy. It demonstrates the profound relationship between the spiritual and the physical in Hindu belief: “the act of pilgrimage, communal worship, and the connection to ancient legends come alive every year”. The gathering is also an expression of cultural diversity, as devotees of every background, nationality, and sect converge at Sagar Island.

While the Ganga Sagar Mela itself is the centrepiece, the surrounding area offers further sites of interest. The Kapil Muni Temple is where pilgrims pay homage to the ancient sage, and many meditate there, seeking spiritual tranquillity. Sagar Lighthouse and Port is a scenic landmark providing views of the confluence and the crowds. The Ramakrishna Mission Ashram is a centre for spiritual study and service while the island’s serene beaches are a haven for reflection and relaxation amid the spiritual fervour.

The Ganga Sagar Mela continues to cement its role as a cornerstone of spiritual unity and celebration in India. The myths and legends surrounding the event infuse the gathering with sacred meaning, while its rituals offer avenues for purification, devotion, and the hope of eternal liberation. Each year, as millions gather at Sagar Island, ancient stories are relived, traditions are renewed, and faith is reaffirmed—making the Ganga Sagar Mela an unforgettable tapestry of myth, ritual, and communal spirit.

Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Jyotirlingas Part 1

In the vast and intricate tapestry of Indian spirituality, certain symbols resound across centuries, uniting story, devotion, architecture, and memory. Among these, the concept of Jyotirlinga occupies a place of deep reverence. These are not simply temples, not merely shrines, but radiant embodiments of the infinite cosmic light of Lord Shiva, that manifest in forms that bridge the seen and unseen, the earthly and transcendent.

In Sanskrit, Jyoti means “light” and Linga means “mark” or “sign.” Thus, a Jyotirlinga is the “radiant sign of Shiva.” Devotees believe that these shrines are not representations of Shiva crafted by human effort but are rather natural manifestations of his infinite energy, breaking through the earthly veil as columns of light.

There is a famous story in the puranic tradition: once, the gods Vishnu and Brahma debated the supremacy of creation and preservation. To settle their disagreement, Shiva manifested as an endless pillar of light, extending beyond all measure. No beginning, no end, just infinite brilliance. Brahma and Vishnu, even with all their might, failed to find its origin or terminus. That boundless beam is the essence of the Jyotirlinga.

Each Jyotirlinga temple is thus not merely a place of worship but a cosmic reminder that divinity cannot be contained, only glimpsed. While many Shiva temples exist across the subcontinent, thousands upon thousands, the twelve Jyotirlingas are especially sacred, each considered a direct site where Shiva revealed himself as light.

The Shiva Mahapurana recounts that originally Shiva manifested in innumerable Jyotirlingas, but twelve came to hold supreme prominence. These are spread across India, forming not a neat geographical circle but a sacred web binding disparate landscapes into a single spiritual network.

The 12 Jyotirlingas are traditionally named as: Somnath, Mallikarjuna, Mahakaleshwar, Omkareshwar, Kedarnath, Bhimashankar, Vishwanath (Kashi Vishwanath), Trimbakeshwar, Vaidyanath, Nageshwar, Rameshwaram, and Grishneshwar.

Each has its unique legends, but collectively, they narrate a larger cultural truth: the omnipresence of Lord Shiva. From the Himalayan slopes of Kedarnath to the coastal waves of Rameshwaram, from the deserts of Gujarat to the dense temples of Maharashtra, the Jyotirlingas embody the principle that divinity pervades all terrain, all time, all people.

Unlike pilgrimages that cluster around one region, the circuit of Jyotirlingas cuts across the entire Indian subcontinent. This makes them not only holy destinations but also cultural highways through which stories, practices, and communities travelled.

North and South: Kedarnath rises in the snow-clad Himalayas, while Rameshwaram marks the southern reach of the Tamil coast.
East and West: Vaidyanath lies in today’s Jharkhand, while Somnath shines on Gujarat’s western shoreline, carrying centuries of resilience in the face of invasions.
The Central Heartland: Madhya Pradesh hosts temples like Omkareshwar and Mahakaleshwar, where Narmada and timeless cityscapes converge.

In this way, the Jyotirlingas collectively become not just a religious map but also a civilizational geography, showcasing the range of India’s landscapes, heritage, and local traditions. For pilgrims over centuries, undertaking journeys to one, several, or all of the Jyotirlingas was not just about devotion but about experiencing the vastness of their own homeland: mountain, river, plain, forest, desert, and sea, each sanctified by Shiva’s light.

At the heart of every Jyotirlinga is a story. But unlike fixed myths, these narratives exist in multiple versions, layered and adapted across regions. Somnath tells of the moon god’s relief from a curse; Omkareshwar emerges from the tale of divine contest on the Narmada; Kedarnath is linked with the penance of the Pandavas after Kurukshetra; Rameshwaram connects to Rama’s journey before crossing the sea to Lanka. In these stories, we glimpse a pattern: the Jyotirlinga shrines don’t emerge only from abstract theology but are deeply entwined with epic history, cosmic events, and moral lessons. Some legends highlight the consequences of pride, others the power of repentance, still others the compassion of Shiva as healer, protector, or cosmic witness. These stories also underscore a uniquely Indian way of sacralising geography: temples are not arbitrary but spring from mythic episodes rooted in the very soil, waters, or mountain where the shrine arose.

Though united in sanctity, the Jyotirlinga temples are strikingly diverse in architectural style. This diversity mirrors India’s regional creativity with each temple absorbing the styles of dynasties, local artisans, and materials at hand. Somnath rebuilt multiple times, embodies defiance and renewal, its sandstone spire rising against the Arabian Sea. Mahakaleshwar holds its sanctum underground, where rituals unfold in the raw intimacy of stone. Kedarnath, perched high in the Himalayas, stands austere and unyielding amid glacier and storm. Rameshwaram is famed for its magnificent corridors, among the longest in the world, echoing with chant and silence. Grishneshwar, smaller in scale, radiates intimacy with its sculpted beauty.

In each, stone becomes story, architecture becomes theology. Shikhara towers stretch skyward like frozen prayers. Mandapas receive wandering pilgrims. Intricate carvings unfold symbolic worlds: snakes, lotuses, cosmic wheels—all testifying to Shiva’s manifold nature.

The Jyotirlinga temples remain not relics of the past but vibrant centres of living tradition. Daily rituals unfold in sequence: dawn abhisheka with waters, milk, and flowers; chants of Vedic mantras; fragrance of incense; the rhythmic ringing of bells. Pilgrims arrive with hopes, vows, burdens, and gratitude. Water from sacred rivers is poured over the linga. Ashes are smeared on brows. Offerings are carried with devotion in baskets of marigold and bilva leaves. Nights resound with hymns and processions.

Beyond individual worship, festivals magnify the spirit of the Jyotirlingas: Mahashivaratri, in particular, transforms each temple into a vibrant ocean of chanting and fasting devotees, who hold vigil through the night to honour Lord Shiva’s cosmic dance.

The core symbolism of Jyotirlinga worship is profound. Where icons depict form, the Jyotirlinga signifies the formless infinite. The lingam is not an idol in the conventional sense but a symbol, a reminder of the ineffable, suggesting that the divine cannot be confined within anthropomorphic imagery. The idea of Shiva as formless light aligns with deep philosophical currents in Indian thought, especially Advaita philosophy: reality as one without a second, beyond image, beyond time, infinite like light itself. Worship of the Jyotirlinga thus becomes not just an act of bhakti or devotion, but also a gateway into contemplative realisation: the one who bows before the linga is also bowing before the boundless within themselves.

Perhaps one of the most remarkable aspects of the Jyotirlinga temples is their resilience. They have faced invasions, destruction, natural calamities, and yet have been rebuilt time and again, symbolising not just survival but renewal of faith. Somnath, for example, was desecrated multiple times across centuries, yet always rose anew. Kedarnath witnessed devastating floods, but continues to be a magnet of devotion. Rameshwaram has absorbed tidal rhythms of history and faith.

In this resilience lies a lesson: that the sacred, even when broken, is never truly destroyed. Faith finds ways to rebuild, to sing, to remember, to sanctify again. The Jyotirlingas are living examples of this civilisational continuity.

The Jyotirlingas are not only pilgrimage sites but cultural fountains. They have inspired poetry, devotional songs, art, and ritual practices across centuries. Saints and mystics, such as Tulsidas, Adi Shankaracharya, and countless regional poets, have sung of Shiva’s presence in these sacred shrines. Economically, the temples have long sustained communities of artisans, priests, and pilgrims. Socially, they facilitate gatherings that dissolve barriers: rich and poor, scholar and villager, all queue together to pour water over the same linga. They also serve as cultural markers: to say one has walked to Somnath, climbed to Kedarnath, bathed at Rameshwaram, is not only to claim devotional merit but to claim a deeper cultural identity.

In today’s world of fast travel, the Jyotirlinga circuit has taken new shapes. Devotees sometimes attempt to visit all twelve within a single journey, aided by trains, flights, and tour packages. For others, the pilgrimage is spread across a lifetime, an unfolding quest where each temple marks a personal milestone. Yet, even amidst modernity, the essence remains untouched: to travel to a Jyotirlinga is to step outside ordinary routine, to participate in a timeless cycle, to stand beneath stone spires and remember the infinite light.

Finally, the significance of the Jyotirlingas is not limited to geographical shrines. Many teachers remind us that the truest Jyotirlinga resides within, as the spark of consciousness and light at the core of being. The pilgrim’s outer journey, through dust roads and mountain passes, is mirrored by an inward journey, through meditation and realisation. The twelve Jyotirlingas may be seen as stations of the larger inner pilgrimage: toward recognizing the self as shaped by nothing but light, infinite and eternal.

The Jyotirlinga temples are not twelve stones scattered across India. They are twelve flames in a greater fire, twelve windows into infinity, twelve markers reminding us of the endless dance of destruction and renewal that is Shiva himself. To reflect on them is to reflect on a civilisation’s memory, on resilience against time, and on humanity’s longing to touch the infinite. So follow me along, as together we will walk more slowly into each temple’s world, pausing to hear its legends, study its architecture, savor its rituals, and glimpse how community and culture intertwine around its sacred space.

For now, let us hold this wider vision: that across mountains, coasts, rivers, forests, and deserts, the Jyotirlinga temples stand as luminous testimonies to the eternal light of Lord Shiva: stones that carry story, spaces that breathe devotion, shrines that forever point beyond themselves to the formless, radiant source of all.

In My Hands Today…

The Tatas: How a Family Built a Business and a Nation – Girish Kuber

The Tatas is the story of one of India’s leading business families.

It starts in the nineteenth century with Nusserwanji Tata – a middle-class Parsi priest from the village of Navsari in Gujarat, and widely regarded as the Father of Indian Industry – and ends with Ratan Tata – chairman of the Tata Group until 2012.

But it is more than just a history of the industrial house; it is an inspiring account of India in the making. It chronicles how each generation of the family invested not only in the expansion of its own business interests but also in nation building.

For instance, few know that the first hydel project in the world was conceived and built by the Tatas in India. Nor that some radical labour concepts such as eight-hour work shifts were born in India, at the Tata mill in Nagpur.

The National Centre for the Performing Arts, the Tata Cancer Research Centre, the Tata Institute of Fundamental Research – the list about the Tatas’ contribution to India is a long one. A bestseller in Marathi when it was first published in 2015, this is the only book that tells the complete Tata story over two hundred years.

Sacred Stones, Spaces, and Stories: Ashtavinayaka Part 9

Rising from the fertile plains of the Pune district, the Mahaganapati Temple at Ranjangaon stands as the culminating jewel of Maharashtra’s Ashtavinayak pilgrimage. Revered as the seat of Mahaganapati, the “Great Ganesha”, this temple is steeped in legend, history, and architectural grandeur. Here, Lord Ganesha is worshipped in his most potent form, invoked even by Lord Shiva himself in the cosmic battle against the demon Tripurasura. For centuries, devotees and warriors alike have sought Mahaganapati’s blessings, making Ranjangaon not just a spiritual destination but a living testament to the enduring power of faith and myth.

Ranjangaon is a tranquil village located about 50 km from Pune, along the Pune-Ahmednagar highway. The temple’s strategic location made it a favoured stop for Maratha chieftains and pilgrims journeying through the Deccan. Today, it is the eighth and final stop for those completing the revered Ashtavinayak Yatra, a circuit of eight self-manifested Ganesha temples across Maharashtra.

Historical records and the temple’s stone pillars suggest that the Mahaganapati Temple was originally constructed in the 9th or 10th century, with significant enhancements during the Peshwa era. Shrimant Madhavrao I, the Peshwa ruler, was a devout worshipper who regularly visited the temple before heading to battle. He built a stone sanctum around the idol and created a special cellar to safeguard the deity during times of turmoil. The temple’s hall and surrounding apartments, or owaris, were commissioned by Sardar Kibe, Sardar Pawar, and Sardar Shinde, prominent nobles of the time. In modern times, the temple’s Nagarkhana, or drum house, above the entrance, was inaugurated by Chief Minister Manohar Joshi in 1997, reflecting ongoing reverence and restoration.

The temple boasts a massive and ornate entrance gate, flanked by two imposing dwarapalas, or gatekeepers, visible from the main road. The temple is ingeniously constructed so that during Dakshinayana, the sun’s southern movement, the rays of the rising sun fall directly on the main idol in the sanctum, a marvel of ancient engineering. The drum house above the entrance is used during festivals and processions, adding to the temple’s festive aura. The sanctum houses the swayambhu, or self-manifested idol, of Mahaganapati, seated on a lotus and accompanied by his consorts, Riddhi and Siddhi. Local tradition holds that the original idol, known as “Mahotkat,” is hidden in a basement and is said to have ten trunks and twenty arms, though the visible idol is more conventional in form.

The temple’s enduring myth centres on the cosmic battle between good and evil, with Mahaganapati as the divine catalyst. According to legend, the esteemed sage Grutsamad once sneezed, and from this act, a boy named Tripurasura was born. Tripurasura, raised with spiritual wisdom, learned the Ganesh mantra from his father and performed severe penance to Lord Ganesha. Pleased, Ganesha granted him a boon: Tripurasura would become the most powerful being in the universe and could only be defeated by Lord Shiva, after which he would attain liberation.

Empowered by this boon, Tripurasura’s pride grew unchecked. He conquered the underworld, the heavens, and even threatened the gods themselves. Lord Brahma hid in a lotus, and Lord Vishnu retreated to the cosmic ocean, unable to withstand Tripurasura’s might. Desperate, the gods turned to sage Narada, who advised them to worship Lord Ganesha. Ganesha, taking the form of a Brahmin, approached Tripurasura and offered to create three flying chariots that could only be destroyed by Shiva. In exchange, he asked for the Chintamani jewel from Kailash. When Tripurasura demanded the jewel, Lord Shiva refused, leading to a fierce battle.

Despite his power, Shiva could not defeat Tripurasura. Realising his mistake in not honouring Ganesha first, Shiva paused and recited the Shadaakshar Mantra to invoke Ganesha. Blessed with a special beejmantra, or seed mantra, Shiva was finally able to destroy Tripurasura with a single arrow]. This victory was possible only after seeking Ganesha’s grace, emphasising the deity’s role as the remover of all obstacles, even for the gods!

The site where Shiva invoked Ganesha and achieved victory became Ranjangaon, and the form of Ganesha worshipped here is known as Mahaganapati or Tripurarivade Mahaganapati, the destroyer of Tripurasura.

The idol at Ranjangaon is revered as one of the most powerful forms of Ganesha. Mahaganapati is depicted seated on a lotus, flanked by his consorts Riddhi, or prosperity, and Siddhi, or spiritual power. The idol is Swayambhu, believed to have emerged naturally from the earth. In some traditions, the idol is described as “Mahotkat,” possessing ten trunks and twenty arms, though it is more commonly seen with eight, ten, or twelve arms.. The idol’s serene yet commanding presence embodies both the gentle and formidable aspects of the deity.

Each day, the idol is ritually bathed with water, milk, and fragrant substances, accompanied by the chanting of Vedic mantras. Morning and evening aartis are performed with lamps, bells, and devotional songs, filling the temple with a vibrant spiritual energy. Offerings of modaks, coconut, and flowers are made to the deity, and prasad is distributed to devotees as a blessing.

Sahastravartan is an elaborate ritual that involves the recitation of Ganesha’s names or mantras a thousand times, seeking his blessings for the removal of obstacles and the fulfilment of wishes. The Satyavinayak Pooja is a special worship performed for significant life events or to fulfil vows. During the Bhadrapada festival, devotees perform “Lotangan”, which means rolling their bodies in prostration along the path to the temple as an act of surrender and devotion.

Unlike many other villages, the people of Ranjangaon do not bring Ganesha idols into their homes during Ganesh Chaturthi. Instead, the entire community gathers at the Mahaganapati Temple for collective worship, reinforcing the temple’s role as the spiritual heart of the region.

Ganesh Chaturthi is celebrated with immense fervour at Ranjangaon. The temple is adorned with flowers and lights, and special rituals, abhisheks, and aartis are performed. On the fifth day of the festival, a grand feast called a mahabhog is offered to the deity, and the idol is taken in a flower-bedecked palkhi, or palanquin procession, around the temple grounds. Wrestling matches and cultural events are also organised, drawing large crowds from nearby villages.

A unique sixth-day celebration during Bhadrapada sees devotees flocking to the temple, performing special rituals, and participating in communal festivities. The atmosphere is one of joy, devotion, and unity.

The Mahaganapati Temple is more than a place of worship; it is a symbol of the triumph of wisdom and humility over pride and chaos. The legend of Tripurasura underscores the importance of invoking Ganesha before any new undertaking, a tradition now embedded in Hindu practice. The temple’s sun-aligned architecture, powerful idol, and living rituals all reinforce the message that with faith, even the greatest obstacles can be overcome.

Ranjangaon is the eighth and final stop in the Ashtavinayak circuit, making it the spiritual culmination of the pilgrimage. Pilgrims often report a sense of completion and fulfilment upon receiving Mahaganapati’s blessings, believing that their prayers and efforts throughout the yatra have been acknowledged and rewarded.

After Ranjangaon, pilgrims go back to the Moreshwar Temple to complete the Ashtavinayak circuit. And with that visit, they complete the pilgrimage. This circuit is something I have wanted to do for a while, given that the circuit is in my home state, and it is a pilgrimage for my ishtadev! I will do this sooner rather than later; that’s my promise to myself.

In My Hands Today…

Early Indians: The Story of Our Ancestors and Where We Came From – Tony Joseph

Who are we Indians? Where did we come from? Many of us believe our ancestors have lived in South Asia since ‘time immemorial’. But, as it turns out, ‘time immemorial’ may not have been all that long ago. To tell us the story of our ancestry, journalist Tony Joseph goes 65,000 years into the past—when a band of modern humans, or Homo sapiens, first made their way from Africa into the Indian subcontinent.

Citing recent DNA evidence, he traces the subsequent large migrations of modern humans into India—of agriculturalists from Iran between 7000 and 3000 BCE and pastoralists from the Central Asian Steppe between 2000 and 1000 BCE, among others.

As Joseph unravels our history using the results of genetic and other research, he takes head-on some of the most controversial and uncomfortable questions of Indian history: Who were the Harappans? Did the ‘Aryans’ really migrate to India? Are North Indians genetically different from South Indians? And are the various castes genetically distinct groups?

This book relies heavily on path-breaking DNA research of recent years. But it also presents earlier archaeological and linguistic evidence—all in an entertaining and highly readable manner. A hugely significant book, Early Indians authoritatively and bravely puts to rest several ugly debates on the ancestry of modern Indians. It not only shows us how the modern Indian population came to be composed as it is, but also reveals an undeniable and important truth about who we are: we are all migrants. And we are all mixed.