Tag Archives: India

In My Hands Today…

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Daughters of the Sun: Empresses, Queens and Begums of the Mughal Empire – Ira Mukhoty

In 1526 a Timurid warrior-scholar rides into Delhi to build an empire. With him ride his wives, his sisters, his daughters, his aunts and his distant female relatives.

Unhindered by a relatively recent conversion to Islam, these women will help found a culture of such magnificence and beauty that it will become a by-word for opulence in the world. These Mughal women of Hindustan — unmarried daughters, eccentric sisters, fiery milk-mothers and beautiful wives, will contribute to the great syncretic culture of the Mughals by writing biographies, building monuments, engaging in diplomacy, and patronizing the arts.

And even as the zenana changes from the earlier nomadic, tented spaces to the later more sequestered grandeur within the high stone walls of mighty qilas, the influence of the women remains visible and unquestioned. This book looks at the lives of these Mughal women, and the enigma of their disappearance, except as objects of curiosity, from our collective memory.

In My Hands Today…

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Partition Voices: Untold British Stories – Kavita Puri

Dotted across homes in Britain are people who were witnesses to one of the most tumultuous events of the twentieth century. Yet their memory of India’s partition has been shrouded in silence. Kavita Puri’s father was twelve when he found himself one of the millions of Sikhs, Hindus and Muslims caught up in the devastating aftermath of a hastily drawn border. For seventy years he remained silent – like so many – about the horrors he had seen.

When her father finally spoke out, opening up a forgotten part of Puri’s family history, she was compelled to seek out the stories of South Asians who were once subjects of the British Raj, and are now British citizens. Determined to preserve these accounts – of the end of Empire and the difficult birth of two nations – here Puri records a series of remarkable first-hand testimonies, as well as those of their children and grandchildren whose lives are shaped by partition’s legacy. With empathy, nuance and humanity, Puri weaves a breathtaking tapestry of human experience over a period of seven decades that trembles with life; an epic of ruptured families and friendships, extraordinary journeys and daring rescue missions that reverberates with pain, loss and compassion.

The division of the Indian subcontinent happened far away, but it is also a very British story. Many of those affected by partition are now part of the fabric of British contemporary life, but their lives continue to be touched by this traumatic event. Partition Voices breaks the silence and confronts the difficult truths at the heart of Britain’s shared history with South Asia.

Festivals of India: Muharram

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This is the month of Muharram, the first month of the Islamic calendar and one of the four sacred months of the year when warfare is forbidden. It is held to be the second holiest month after Ramadan. The tenth day of Muharram is known as Ashura and as part of the Mourning of Muharram, Shi’i Muslims mourn the tragedy of Ḥusayn ibn ʿAlī’s family, and Sunni Muslims practice fasting on Ashura.

Muslims mourn the martyrdom of Ḥusayn and his family, honouring the martyrs by prayer and abstinence from joyous events. Shiʿi Muslims eat as little as possible on the Ashura; however, this is not seen as fasting. Alevis fast twelve days, each day for one of the Twelve Imams of Shiʿa Islam, to commemorate and mourn the Imams, as if a very close relative has died. Some, excluding children, the elderly or the sick, don’t eat or drink until zawal or afternoon as a part of their mourning for Husayn. In addition, there is an important ziyarat or a form of pilgrimage book, the Ziyarat Ashura about Ḥusayn. In Shiʿism, it is popular to read this ziyarat on this date.

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The sighting of the new moon ushers in the Islamic New Year. The first month, Muharram, is one of the four sacred months mentioned in the Quran, along with the seventh month of Rajab, and the eleventh and twelfth months of Dhu al-Qi’dah and Dhu al-Hijjah, respectively, immediately preceding Muharram. During these sacred months, warfare is forbidden. Before the advent of Islam, the Quraish and Arabs also forbade warfare during those months. Muslims believe that in this month of Muharram, one should worship Allah a lot.

Muharram is a month of remembrance. Ashura, which means the Tenth in Arabic, refers to the tenth day of Muharram and is well known because of the historical significance and mourning for the Shahadat or martyrdom of Ḥusayn ibn Ali, the grandson of Muhammad. Muslims begin mourning from the first night of Muharram and continue for ten nights, climaxing on the 10th day of Muharram, known as the Day of Ashura which is considered the most important by both Shia and Sunni Muslims. Tomorrow, the 10th day of Muharram or the Day of Ashura will be commemorated. Shia Muslims observe it as a day of mourning to commemorate the death of the grandson of Prophet Muhammad, Hussayn Ibn Ali. The last few days up until and including the Day of Ashura are the most important because these were the days in which Hussain and his family and followers, including women, children and elderly people were deprived of water from the 7th day onward and on the 10th day, Husayn and 72 of his followers were killed by the army of Yazid I at the Battle of Karbala on Yazid’s orders. The surviving members of Husayn’s family and those of his followers were taken captive, marched to Damascus, and imprisoned there. This was because, according to legend, Imam Hussayn objected to the legitimacy of the Caliph Yazid and revolted against him leading to the battle of Karbala in 680 AD. Sunni Muslims believe that the religious leader Moses led Israel through the Red Sea and got victory over the Egyptian Pharaoh and his army of war chariots on the 10th day of Muharram. There is another belief that Adam and Eve were created by God on the 10th day of this month. It was also during this time that Prophet Muhammad migrated from Mecca to Medina, which is known as Hijrah, and so Muharram marks this important event as well.

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In India, though both Shias and Sunnis observe Muharram, for the Shias, it is a day of observance and not joy, and thus, they are in mourning for the 10 days. They dress in black, attend special prayer meetings at mosques and even refrain from listening to music or attending events like weddings. On the 10th day, street processions take place in which they walk barefoot, chanting and whipping their chests until it draws blood to commemorate the sufferings of Imam Hussayn. Sunnis observe this day with fasting from the first to the 10th or 11th day of the month. This is voluntary, and the ones who fast are believed to be rewarded by Allah.

Festivals of India: Aadi Perukku

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Today is Aadi Perukku or Aadi 18, a little-known festival celebrated in the state of Tamil Nadu. Also known as Aadi 18, Aadi Perukku is the monsoon festival celebrated in the month Aadi monsoon festival and celebrated on the 18th day of the Tamil month of Adi, which should be sometime between mid-July to mid-August. The festival pays tribute to water’s life-sustaining properties. Nature worship in the form of Amman deities is organised to shower Nature’s bountiful grace on human beings and to bless mankind with peace, prosperity and happiness.

Aadi is a month of fervour and observances dedicated to the Goddesses related to water and other natural forces where prayers and pujas are offered to propitiate the powerful goddess to seek their protection from the inauspicious aspects that are often associated with the month. No weddings or other similar functions are celebrated during this month. It is during this time that the monsoon peaks on the west coast and the rivers of Tamil Nadu, shrunken in the summer heat, get replenished, often to near full levels. The month of Aadi is the fourth month of the year with the first day of the month, usually falling on 16 July, celebrated as Aadi Pandigai or Aadi Perukku, and an important festival to most Tamils, especially newly-weds.

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In India the rivers Ganga and Yamuna, Cauvery, Narmada and Godavari are considered sacred. Just like the earth gives us food, water is considered a sacred necessity to meet the needs of individuals. People began to worship water in the form of wells, tanks and rivers. It is common among people to throw fruits, flowers and saffron cloths when the rivers and lakes are in spate purely based on the belief that these rivers are the species of female deities. Similarly, every temple has sacred wells and tanks, and the water in these resources is considered pure.

Aadi Perukku is a unique South Indian and especially a Tamil festival celebrated on the 18th day of the Tamil month of Adi. The festival coincides with the annual freshness of rivers and pays tribute to water’s life-sustaining properties. It is celebrated near river basins, water tanks, lakes and wells of Tamil Nadu when the water level rises significantly heralding the onset of the monsoon.

Aadi Perukku, also called Padinettam Perukku where Padinettu signifies eighteen, and Perukku denotes rising is a unique occasion dedicated to all the perennial river basins of Tamil Nadu and major lakes water source areas and is intended to celebrate the water rising levels due to the onset of monsoon, which is expected to occur invariably on the 18th day of the solar month, Aadi which corresponds to the 2 or 3 August every year. This festival is observed predominately by women in Tamil Nadu as a water ritual, to honour nature.

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The association of this ritual with fertility, sex and reproduction is both natural and human. This water ritual practice is performed on the banks of Rivers, which is described as a rice-cultivation tract. The history of this ritual practice dates back to the ancient period and was patronised by the Kings and royal households. Aadi is the month for sowing, rooting and planting of seeds and vegetation since it is peak monsoon time when rain is showered in abundance.

Apart from people flocking to waterfalls for pre-monsoon and monsoon festivals, people living on the banks of rivers and other water sources offer pujas to the water goddess and river gods so that when nurseries are raised in the fields subsequently and sustained by the northeast monsoon, the crops will be ready for harvest during the Thai Pongal celebration in 5 months in mid-January.

The most visible manifestations of the month of Aadi are the huge kolams or rangolis that are painstakingly patterned early each morning in front of houses. They are usually bordered with red and across the front doorway at the top are strung mango leaves. The first of the month is marked with a special puja, followed by a feast with payasam prepared with coconut milk, boli and vadai.

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Aadi Perukku is a day of offerings and prayers to these rivers, which mean so much to the lives and prosperity of the people. The day is an occasion for rejoicing particularly for those living on the banks of all the main rivers, their branches and tributaries. The festival of Aadi Perukku is mainly observed by families living on the banks of the Cauvery River. On this auspicious day, relatives and friends collectively pray for the intermittent supply of water that would ultimately result in a good harvest. The devotees take a dip in the holy water. After the bath, they wear new clothes and perform some rituals at the bathing ghats along the Cauvery River. This is followed by abhishekham or the bathing of the Goddess Kaveri or Kaveri Amman.

A special lamp is prepared using jaggery and rice flour. The lamp is placed on the mango leaves, to which a yellow thread, turmeric and flowers are also added. The lamp is lit by the women and together with its accompaniments is floated in the river. Different forms of rice dishes are prepared and offered to the Goddess. Some of the commonly prepared rice dishes that vary in ingredients, colours or flavours include coconut rice, sweet Pongal, curd rice, lemon rice and tamarind rice. The devotees also worship the sacred river Mother Cauvery with rice offerings, Akshata and flowers. After completing the puja, the devotees eat the feast along the banks of the river with their families. The entire event turns out to be like a picnic on the banks of the Cauvery River.

Young girls observe this auspicious puja together with married women. It is a popular belief that maiden girls who make the offerings of Kaapparisi, a sweet dish made from jaggery and hand-crushed rice, Karugamani which are black coloured beads and Kaadholai which are earrings carved out of palm leaves shall be rewarded with good husbands. Young women play and dance to the tunes of folk songs on the occasion of Aadi Perukku. In some Tamil communities, the sons-in-law are invited on the day of Aadi Perukku and gifted new clothes. There is also a ritual in some districts of Tamil Nadu, wherein the newlyweds spend a month before Aadi Perukku at their parents’ home. Then on the day of Aadi Perukku, a gold coin is added to their Thali or Mangalsutra and they return with their husbands.

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Mulaipari or the sprouting or germination of nine grains or navadhanyam in baskets or clay mud pots is a very important ritual which takes place at almost every village Goddess celebration. In its most original form, it is an exclusively women’s ritual and is of great importance to the whole village. The participants of the processions carry earthen pots with grown grains from nine different types of grains inside on their heads and walk towards a river where the contents are dissolved. Before the procession starts, special songs and dances like Kummi Pattu and Kummi are performed. The original meaning of the ritual performance is a request to the village Goddess for rain and the fertility of the land, to secure a rich harvest. The women are involved in large groups significantly implying the fertility of women also ensures the continuity of the human race with peace and harmony through empowered women.

All the year’s major festivals are packed into the six months that follow, culminating with Thai Pongal in mid- January, giving meaning to the Tamil saying, Aadi Azhaikkum, Thai Thudaikkum which means

Travel Bucket List: India – Arunachal Pradesh Part 4

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Khonsa

A hill station in a valley surrounded by the Himalayas, Khonsa was created during the British colonial rule. It borders Myanmar to the east and Assam in the south and is surrounded by panoramic views of thick forests fringed by hills. Located about 300 km east of Itanagar, Khonsa lies in the Tirap Valley at an average elevation of about 1,215 m above sea level with streams, deep gorges, dense forests and snow-clad hills.

The Khonsa Museum was built in 1956 and houses some amazing artefacts representing the diverse culture of the region. Other than swords and other weapons on display here, one can also find handlooms and artefacts that represent the culture of various parts of India as well as various types of cane and bamboo works. The Kheti and Lajo villages are tribal villages, home to the Nocte, a Wancho tribe that makes up the majority of Khonsa’s inhabitants. Human skulls from the times when the tribes headhunted are hung in the village dormitories to reflect their past. The Khonsa waterfall is located in a dense forest, just a few km from Khonsa and has magnificent views of the forest. The way to the waterfall is very difficult and challenging and it can be only reached with the help of a local guide.

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Changlang

Due to the presence of crude oil, coal and mineral resources other than tourism and hydropower, Changlang which lies 324 km east of Itanagar has become an important town in the state. Changlang shares an international boundary with Myanmar and is best known for its bio-diversity and scenic beauty and unique culture.

Visible from the Pangsau Pass, 12 km from Nampong, the Lake of No Return has this name due to the many who perished here. The spot was used for a soft landing for fighter planes during times of war after being hit by enemies with many soldiers losing their lives in the process. Depending on the weather, Nampong has been nicknamed the Hell Pass because of the difficult terrain that worsens during the monsoon season. The Indo-Myanmar border is just 12 km from Nampong where the Lake of No Return is visible. Also known as Ledo Road, Stilwell Road is a historic road as it was connected by the Americans during World War II to connect Ledo to Changlang. The route of the entire road is quite circuitous and covers a challenging path. Popularly known as the Jairampur Cemetery, the World War II Cemetery is located some 25 km from the Indo-Myanmar Border and is where soldiers who died during World War II died. Most of the graves are those which belong to the Chinese, Indian, Kachin and British soldiers, but many graves have been destroyed by wild elephants today.

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Miao

Situated 165 km east of Khonsa and about 350 km east of Itanagar, Miao is where Tibetian refugees settled down. It is also the gateway to the Namdapha National Park and an ideal spot for hiking, angling and trekking. The Patkai Bum mountain range, which is an Eastern extension of the Himalayas is what Miao is famous for and the main attractions of the town are the mini zoo and museum. There is also a Tibetan refugee settlement which sells lovely woollen carpets and the tea plantations and opium cultivation farms nearby are also popular.

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Anini

A small underdeveloped remote town, Anini lies about 583 km northeast of Itanagar. The Idu Mishmi tribal people constitute a majority here. Anini’s name may have come from Inini or Innini with historical maps of Arunachal Pradesh from times before the Lower Dibang Valley district was carved out of the Dibang Valley District and before Roing was established, indicate the capital of the Dibang Valley District being Inini which have come from the Idu word Inni who is the Idu Mishmi’s supreme deity or God.

The native Idu Mishmis and other tribes were said to have migrated from ancient Tibet in the 1st century. Anini’s importance grew during World War II when supplies and troops needed to be sent to China through the Ledo Road in Assam. In 1947, Anini became a part of India, but became part of the disputed territory claimed by both India and China in 1950. Most of Anini is located on a miniature plateau between two tributaries of the Dibang river, the Dri and the Mathun rivers. The town is located on the Eurasian Plate, about 420 miles north of the junction of the Indian and the Eurasian Plates, which makes Anini earthquake-prone. The Mehao Wildlife Sanctuary nearby is a must-visit while in Anini. Anini is an important stop of the Arunachal Helicopter Service. The service connects the town to the rest of the state as well as to the Dibrugarh airport in Assam. The town is a major stop in both the Eurocopter Dauphin and the MI-172 helicopters’ schedules.

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Pasighat

Situated at the eastern foothills of the Himalayas at 155 m above sea level, Pasighat is Arunachal Pradesh’s oldest town. Also known as the Gateway to Arunachal Pradesh, Pasighat is located about 265 km northeast of the capital of Itanagar, the town is also an Advance Landing Ground or ALG of the Indian Air Force.

Pasighat was founded in 1911 by the British colonial government as a gateway to the administrative convenience of the greater Abor Hills and the north area in general and settlements of Adi tribesmen still live in the villages in and around Pasighat. The town is home to the River Brahmaputra which flows down from Tibet and is a photographer’s delight.

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A hanging bridge on the Siang River attracts a lot of tourists around the year. Spread over an area of 190 sq km, the Daying Ering Wildlife Sanctuary is covered by alluvial grasslands which form the major area and wooded areas constitute about 15% while the remaining area or about 25% is covered with water bodies and hence attracts many migratory birds from Mongolia and Siberia. The sanctuary itself is surrounded by the Siang or the Brahmaputra River and is home to many endangered bird species.

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Around 60 km from Pasighat is where the green water of River Siang meets the blue water of River Siyom and presents a marvellous sight. This is Pangin where one can find many rare plants and herbs of medicinal importance. Kekar Monying is a mountain cliff near Rottung and an important historical place. In 1911, it was here that the Adi tribesmen put up a strong fight against the British. The war was a part of a punitive expedition undertaken by the British for murdering Noel Williamson, a political officer in the previous year by Matmur Jamoh, a native of Yagrung village. Komsing, a village on the left bank of the Siang is the place of Williamson’s murder. A stone epitaph bearing the name of Noel Williamson still lies near the Siang. Komlighat used to be a river port and the ghat marks the area of the colonial town of Pasighat which has been submerged into the Siang river following a flood and the river changing its course. Today, it is a popular evening spot providing a wonderful view of the river and the hills surrounding the Pasighat plains.

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The Pasighat Buddhist Temple is located opposite the airstrip and serves as the only Buddhist worship place in Pasighat. The East Siang District Museum also located nearby is the district museum. Pasighat also houses the headquarters of the Adi Baane Kebang, which acts as the de facto cultural parliament governing the cultural, linguistic and traditional aspects of the Adi people.

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Aalo

Formerly known as Along, the town of Aalo lies about 365 km northeast of Itanagar and about 220 km from Likabali, at the border of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. It is also an Advance Landing Ground or ALG of the Indian Air Force. Lying close to several tiny villages, this small town is situated at the congregation of the two rivers, the Sipu and the Yomgo. With blooming orchards of oranges and pleasant cum cool weather, Aalo is best visited in the winter season. River Rafting is a major activity in Along on the Sipu and Yomgo or Siyom Rivers which flow within Aalo. The Kamaki Hydropower Dam should also be visited to take in the gorgeous views from the dam. The Ramakrishna Mission runs a beautiful missionary school in Aalo which is exceedingly pretty and well kept. The Darka Village is a major attraction, especially during the famous Mopin Festival. The village has three rivers running through it making it beautiful.  

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Daporijo

Daporijo is a small town on the way from Ziro to Aalo and lies about 270 km northeast of Itanagar and about 165 km northeast of Ziro and about 160 km southwest of Aalo. A small scenic town, Daporijo is situated 600 meters above sea level with the beautiful Subansiri River, a tributary of the Brahmaputra River, flowing through the town. The town is known for its varied ethnic cultures like the Tagin, the Galo the Hilmiri and the Mishmi who are believed to have existed since ancient times. Originally Dapo referred to the protection or a barrier against the epidemic or evil spirits while Rijo stood for the valley, so Daporijo means the valley which stops diseases or evil spirits.

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The Meghna cave Temple is dedicated to Lord Lakulisha who was the 28th embodiment of Lord Shiva and the temple is especially crowded during the Maha Shivaratri festival. The temple has some Sanskrit scriptures inside and is well known for the spectacular views surrounding the cave. With beautiful green surroundings and wild animals wandering around, the Kamala Forest Reserve is a protected forest area near Daporijo and is a favourite spot for bird lovers. The Daporijo Good Shepherd Church is a beautiful catholic church under the Itanagar diocese, controlled by tribal bishops. The Subansiri River offers visitors to do rafting which should not be missed.

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Anjaw

Located 450 km northeast of Itanagar, Anjaw borders China in the north. India’s easternmost district, Anjaw is also the second least populous district in the country. During the 1962 war, parts of Anjaw were briefly occupied by China and being part of a disputed border region, the area always has an Indian military presence. The Mishmi, and the Zakhring or the Meyor as they were formerly known are the main tribes here. The area is rich in wildlife with some rare mammals and birds found in the region. The small offbeat town is rich in greenery with gleaming waterfalls, beautiful river streams and pine forests.

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Kibithoo is located about 100 km northeast of Anjaw about 1305 meters above sea level on the right bank of the River Lohit. Inhabited by the two main tribes of the Zedkring and the Mishmi, the town is surrounded by rivers, waterfalls, and dense forests of pine and berries and makes for a relaxing getaway. Hawai and Hayuliang are two small towns close to Anjaw. Hawai in the Mishmi language means pond and is located 1296 meters above sea level. Hayuliang means a place of my liquor in the Mishmi language and is located 750 meters above sea level and is blessed with gorgeous views of the convergence of the Dalai and the Lohit Rivers.

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Walong in the Mishmi dialect means a place full of bamboo and is situated 1094 meters above sea level on the west bank of the Lohit River. Walong holds great historical importance because many Indian soldiers lost their lives here during the 1962 war. Just 20 km from the Indo-Sino border, the town has had a massive Chinese influence. The Namti Valley has a memorial built to commemorate the fallen soldiers of the 1962 war. About 7 km from Walong lies Dong on the left bank of the Lohit River and experiences the earliest sunrise in the country. Numerous pine trees surround this town which is enriched with lush greenery. Situated on the left bank of the Dalai River, 1258 meters above sea level, Chaglogam is a great place for different adventure sports like trekking, angling, rafting and mountain climbing.

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Tezu

Arunachal Pradesh’s fifth-largest town and one of its most developed, Tezu lies about 346 km northeast of Itanagar. The recently constructed airport at Tezu will be the first civilian airport in the state. Tezu also has a sizeable population of Tibetan community of about 1500 mostly residing in a settlement known as locally as Lama Camp which is located in Tindolong about 6 km from Tezu. Tezu’s beauty is in full bloom during the festival of Makar Sankranti in January as there is a grand celebration organised by the Mishmi tribe called the Tamladu Festival. People also take a dip in the holy water of the Parshuram Kund in the belief that all their sins get washed away. According to legend, when Parshuram was ordered by his father to kill his mother he threw the axe with a great fury that lead to the formation of this pond and the crack in the earth eventually became the source of the Lohit River

And so we come to the end of a very intriguing and special state, one that I am hopeful I can make a trip to visit and experience.