Yesterday was the Hindu festival of Krishna Janmashtami, also known as Janmashtami or Gokulashtami, an annual Hindu festival that celebrates the birth of Krishna, the eighth avatar of Vishnu. It is observed according to the Hindu luni-solar calendar, on the eighth day or Ashtami of the Krishna Paksha or the dark fortnight in Shraavana or Bhadrapad, depending on whether the calendar chooses the new moon or full moon day as the last day of the month, which overlaps with August/September of the Gregorian calendar.
It is an important festival particularly to the Vaishnavism tradition of Hinduism. Dance-drama enactments of the life of Krishna according to the Bhagavata Purana, such as the Rasa lila or Krishna Lila, devotional singing through the midnight when Krishna was born, fasting, a night vigil, and a festival on the following day are a part of the Janmashtami celebrations. It is celebrated particularly in Mathura and Vrindavan, along with major Vaishnava and non-sectarian communities pretty across India, each with their own unique spin in the festivities. This is followed by the festival of Nandotsav, which celebrates the occasion when Nanda Baba distributed gifts to the community in honour of Lord Krishna’s birth. This is a festival celebrated in the Braj region where on hearing about Krishna’s birth, all the villagers visited Nand Baba’s house to see little Krishna and congratulate Mata Yashoda. Nand Baba distributed ornaments, clothes, cattle and various other valuables among saints and sages, who bestowed blessings on Lord Krishna in return. In Vrindavan this festival is celebrated in the Radha Vallabh Temple. Panchamrit abhisheka and Maha aarti are performed in honour of the Lord’s birth. On this day people also celebrate ‘Govinda’ across many parts of India where devotees form small groups and break pots of butter called Maakhan Haandis tied to ropes on high rise buildings.
Krishna is Devaki and Vasudeva Anakadundubhi’s son and his birthday is celebrated by Hindus as Janmashtami, particularly those of the Gaudiya Vaishnavism tradition as he is considered the Supreme Personality of Godhead. Janmashtami is celebrated when Krishna is believed to have been born according to Hindu tradition, which is in Mathura, at midnight on the eighth day of Bhadrapada month which happens sometime in August or September of each year according to the Gregorian calendar. Born in an era of chaos and rampant persecution, Krishna’s birth was seen as a threat to life by his maternal uncle King Kansa and so to foil this threat, his parents Devaki and Vasudev were imprisioned by Kansa. Immediately following the birth at Mathura, his father Vasudeva Anakadundubhi takes Krishna across Yamuna, to foster parents in Gokul, named Nanda and Yashoda. This legend is celebrated on Janmashtami by people keeping fast, singing devotional songs of love for Krishna, and keeping a vigil into the night. After Krishna’s midnight hour birth, statues of baby Krishna are washed and clothed, then placed in a cradle. The devotees then break their fast, by sharing food and sweets. Women draw tiny foot prints outside their house doors and kitchen, walking towards their house, a symbolism for Krishna’s journey into their homes.
Hindus celebrate Janmashtami by fasting, singing, praying together, preparing and sharing special food, night vigils and visiting Krishna or Vishnu temples. Major Krishna temples organize recitation of ‘’Bhagavata Purana and Bhagavad Gita and many communities organise dance-drama events called Rasa Lila or Krishna Lila. The tradition of Rasa Lila is particularly popular in Mathura region, in northeastern states of India such as Manipur and Assam, and in parts of Rajasthan and Gujarat and these begin a few days before each Janmashtami.
Popularly called Gokulashtami in Maharashtra, the festival is celebrated with the breaking of the Dahi Handi the day after Janmashtami. Literally meaning “earthen pot of yoghurt”. The festival gets this popular regional name from legend of baby Krishna who would seek and steal milk products such as yoghurt and butter and people would hide their supplies high up out of the baby’s reach. Krishna would try all sorts of creative ideas in his pursuit, such as making human pyramids with his friends to break these high hanging pots. In Maharashtra, this Krishna legend is played out as a community tradition, where pots of yoghurt are hung high up, sometimes with tall poles or from ropes hanging from second or third floors of a building. Teams of youth and boys called “Govindas” go around to these hanging pots, climb one over another form a human pyramid, then break the pot. Its quite fun to watch, though can be very dangerous at times, especially when the pots are hung very high.
People in Dwarka in Gujarat – where Krishna is believed to have established his kingdom – celebrate the festival with a tradition similar to Dahi Handi, called Makhan Handi or a pot with freshly churned butter. Others perform folk dances at temples, sing bhajans, visit the Krishna temples such as at the Dwarkadhish Temple or Nathdwara. In the Kutch district, farmers decorate their bullock carts and take out Krishna processions, with group singing and dancing. The carnival-style and playful poetry and works of Dayaram, a scholar of the Pushtimarg of Vaishnavism, is particularly popular during Janmashtami in Gujarat and Rajasthan.
Janmashtami is the largest festival in the Braj region of north India, in Mathura where Krishna was born, and in Vrindavan where he grew up. Vaishnava communities here celebrate Janmashtami where Krishna temples are decorated and lighted up, attracting numerous visitors on the day, while Krishna devotees hold bhakti events and keep a night vigil.
Janmashtami is widely celebrated by Hindu Vaishnava communities of eastern and northeastern India. The widespread tradition of celebrating Krishna in these regions is credited to the efforts and teachings of 15th and 16th century Sankardeva and Chaitanya Mahaprabhu. They developed philosophical ideas, as well as new forms of performance arts to celebrate the Hindu god Krishna such as Borgeet, Ankia Naat, Sattriya and Bhakti yoga now popular in West Bengal and Assam. Further east, Manipur people developed Manipuri dance form, a classical dance form known for its Hindu Vaishnavism themes, and which like Sattriya includes love-inspired dance drama arts of Radha-Krishna called Raslila. The Shree Govindajee Temple and the ISKCON temples particularly mark the Janmashtami festival. Janmashtami is celebrated in Assam at homes, in community centers called Namghars and temples. According to the tradition, the devotees sing the Nam, perform pujas and share food and prasada.
Gokula Ashtami as the festival is called in South India is celebrated in Tamil Nadu with kolams or decorative pattern drawn with rice batter. Then footprints of baby Krishna are drawn from the threshold of the house till the pooja room, depicting the arrival of Lord Krishna into the house. A recitation of Bhagwadgita is also a popular practise. The festival is celebrated in the evening as Krishna was born at midnight. In Andhra Pradesh, recitation of shlokas and devotional songs are the characteristics of this festival. Another unique feature of this festival in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana is that young boys are dress up as Lord Krishna and visit neighbors and friends. Eatables along with milk and curd are prepared to make offerings to Krishna. Legend says that the Sree Krishna Idol installed in Guruvayur is from Dwarka which is believed to be submerged in the sea.
This festival is also celebrated with much joy and gusto outside of India where the diaspora lives. It is a public holiday in countries like Bangladesh and Fiji.
I used to enjoy celebrating it, especially when BB & GG were younger. We used to use them to make tiny footprints from our home’s entrance to our home altar. Since it is not a holiday here in Singapore, I didn’t make the traditional offerings, but would instead rustle up something after work and pray to baby Krishna. This year, I did make some of the traditional offering which was not too badam planning to make some of the traditional offerings, so wish me luck!
Bengaluru or Bangalore as I always think of it holds a special place in my heart. My paternal grandparents moved to Bangalore when I quite young, first to live with my uncle who was unmarried then and then they decided to spend their retirement years there after he married and moved out because they fell in love with the place by then. The Bangalore of the mid eighties to late nineties was a completely different place to the Bengaluru of today. We used to spend every single of our summer holidays there with our grandparents and I still have very fond memories of the time we spent there. Life was much slower than it was in Bombay and I remember office workers coming back home around 5 pm and around 8 pm, everyone used to be snug at home and the streets used to be deserted. Bangalore used to also be so green and the climate pleasant. In fact, when the power used to go off in May which is the hottest month of the year in India, our biggest worry was not the heat, but the fact that we could not watch television. The weather was so nice that even in the summer months we had to use blankets. Today, I doubt anyone in Bengaluru do this and probably need air conditioning to get through the summer months.
On to Bangalore which is today the third most populous city and fifth most populous urban agglomeration in India. The city which stands over 900 meters above sea level used to be called a Garden City and a Pensioners Paradise is today the second fastest-growing major metropolis in India and is regarded as India’s Silicon Valley or the IT Capital of India.
The city’s history dates back to around 890 AD, as seen in a stone inscription found at the Nageshwara Temple in Begur. The Begur inscription is written in Halegannada, which is an ancient Kannada script which mentions ‘Bengaluru Kalaga’ or the battle of Bengaluru. It was a significant turning point in the history of Bangalore as it bears the earliest reference to the name ‘Bengaluru’. In 1537 CE, Kempe Gowda, a feudal ruler under the Vijayanagara Empire, established a mud fort considered to be the foundation of modern Bengaluru and its oldest areas, or petes, which exist till today. After the fall of the Vijayanagar empire in 16th century, the Mughals sold Bangalore to Chikkadevaraja Wodeyar, the then ruler of the Kingdom of Mysore for three lakh rupees. When Haider Ali seized control of the Kingdom of Mysore, the administration of Bangalore passed into his hands. It was captured by the British East India Company after victory in the Fourth Anglo-Mysore War of 1799, who returned administrative control of the city to the Maharaja of Mysore. The old city developed in the dominions of the Maharaja of Mysore and was made capital of the Princely State of Mysore, which existed as a nominally sovereign entity of the British Raj.
In 1809, the British shifted their cantonment to Bangalore, outside the old city, and a town grew up around it, which was governed as part of British India. Following India’s independence in 1947, Bangalore became the capital, first of Mysore State and then of the new state of Karnataka, The two urban settlements of Bangalore, city and cantonment, which had developed as independent entities merged into a single urban centre in 1949. The existing Kannada name, Bengaluru, was declared the official name of the city in 2006.
Known for its gardens and green spaces, let’s start our visit of Bangalore with it’s most famous park, Cubbon Park. Spread over an area of 300 acres, Cubbon Park is a major sightseeing attraction rich in green foliage. It is a green belt region of the city and is an ideal place to recharge body and soul. The park is named in honour of Lord Cubbon, who laid the foundation for the park. It is home to more than 6,000 trees that support a vibrant ecosystem. In addition to being a natural sightseeing destination, some of the major structures of the city such as the Attara Kacheri, Cubbon Park Museum and Sheshadri Iyer Memorial Park are also situated here. Another famous attraction in the Cubbon Park is The Bangalore Aquarium, which is the second largest aquarium in India. Cubbon Park was originally spread over 100 acres, which was later extended to 300 acres. First established in the year 1870 by Sri John Meade who was the acting Commissioner of Mysore, Cubbon Park has a long history. Major General Richard Sankey, Chief Engineer of the state conceived this park in honour of Sir John Meade. Initially, the park was called “Meade’s Park” and later came to be known as the Cubbon Park. In the year 1927, the park was officially renamed as “Sri. Chamarajendra Park” to mark the Silver Jubilee of Sri Krishnaraja Wodeyar’s rule in Mysore State. The best time to visit the park is between September to February when temperatures remain mild and breezy. The park is open from 6 am to 6 pm and is closed on Mondays and the second Tuesday of each month. The park is open only for morning walkers from 6 to 8 am.
One of the oldest botanical gardens in India, the Lalbagh Botanical Gardens is not only one of the largest botanical gardens in India, but also the first of its kind, with planned routes, glasshouses and ornamental flowers growing throughout the property as well as for botanical artwork, scientific study of plants and also conservation of plants. The garden is spread over an area of 240 acres in the heart of the city and has nearly 1,854 species of plants. Its construction was commissioned by Hyder Ali in 1760 and completed by his son Tipu Sultan who designed the gardens keeping in mind the beautiful gardens of Sira in Tumkur. The garden features rare plants of French, Persian and Afghani origin and has attained the status of a Government Botanical Garden. The Lal Bagh Rock which is over 3000 years old and is one of the oldest rocks in the world is found in the centre of the garden and is a major tourist attraction. Visitors can also catch the sight of some rare birds including the myna, pond heron, purple moorhen, parakeets, Brahminy kites and the common egret.
This botanical garden, a delight for photographers, also consists of the famous glass house where a bi-annual flower show is held every year and is also a home to an aquarium and a lake. People travel from far and wide from India and even from abroad to witness millions of flowers, thousands of plants and the incredible artistry that goes into making the figurines and flower structures. The show takes place twice a year- once during January in the same week as the Indian Republic Day, and another time in August, during Independence Day. Each year, a different theme is chosen and flower arrangements are made according to the theme which is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily. Even though the best time to witness the show is in the morning when you can see all the flowers in full bloom and in all their vibrant colours, night time is a whole different experience. The whole Glass House lights up in a golden glow which makes the structures look even more magical and ethereal.
The botanical garden is open from 6 am to 7 pm daily with an entry fee of INR 25 for adults after 8 am. Children below the age of 12 can enter in free while to use a camera inside the garden requires you to pay INR 60 per camera. Make sure you keep at least half a day to soak in the atmosphere of the garden.
Located just 22 km from Bangalore’s city centre, the Bannerghatta National Park or locally known as BBBP for Bengaluru Bannerghatta Biological Park is a sanctuary for a large variety of flora and fauna and is a local favourite for nature and wildlife enthusiasts. Spread over a massive area of around 104.27 sq. km, this national park was established in the year 1971 and has a number of establishments within the park, including the country’s first butterfly park. The park was declared a biological reserve in 2002 and is also one of the only places in the world where one can experience wilderness in such a close proximity to the city. The park is also the first biological park in India which has a fenced forested elephant sanctuary covering an expanse of 122 acres and sponsored by PETA India.
In addition to a Zoo and the popular Jungle Safari, the Bannerghatta Biological Park also has a butterfly park and a rescue centre where the animals who were in captivity are conserved and protected. Other attractions include the ten Reserve Forests of Anekal Range of the Bangalore Forest Division, an aquarium, a Children’s parka, a Crocodile Farm, a Snake Park and a Prehistoric Animals’ Park. The best part about Bannerghatta National Park is the small well-defined zones for animals that almost guarantees that you will spot the animals. People go in caged vehicles during the safari.
The park is also home to a large variety of butterfly species and on the safari, you can catch a glimpse of various animals, including tigers, bears, deer, elephants as well as monkeys. You can also get to see many beneficial herbs and plants, like neem, tamarind, eucalyptus and sandalwood. Many people also visit the park due to the presence of several ancient temples in its premises. The Bannerghatta Biological Park is also a great place for photography, with shutterbugs getting an opportunity to capture a lot of amazing sights in their camera. Although open throughout the year, the best time to visit the park is between the months of October and February when the weather is cool and pleasant and perfect for spotting the blooming trees and wildlife. The first week of October is also the Wildlife Week in the city, with the Karnataka State Forest Department organising several wonderful nature programmes in the park. The park is open from 9:30 am to 5 pm on all days except Tuesdays. Most attractions within the park close around 5 pm with the Grand Safari opening between 10 am to 4:30 pm. The entry fee to the Park is INR 80 for adults and INR 40 for children for Indian nationals and INR 400 for adults and INR 300 for foreigners.
One of the largest lakes in Bangalore, Ulsoor Lake also called Halasuru is sprawled over an area of 50 hectares. Built by Sir Lewin Bentham Bowring, Bangalore’s commissioner at that time Ulsoor lake is the biggest lake in the city and a favourite boating spot for locals which take them to several of the small islands dotting the lake. The lake is an important venue for the Ganesh Chaturthi celebration when idols of the Lord are immersed in the lake at the end of the festival. The best time to visit is around August and September when you can witness the immersion of the Ganesh idols. The lake is also beautiful post monsoon from October to February. The lake is open every day except Wednesdays from 5 am to 8 pm and there is no entry fee to access the lake.
Located around 60 kilometres away from Bangalore, Nandi Hills used to be relatively unknown, but has now become a local favourite weekend getaway. Featuring beautifully carved arches and majestic pillars with intricately painted walls and ceilings, Nandi Hills is scattered with shrines and monument and is surrounded by mesmerizing views. Situated at a height of 4851 feet above sea level, the place was previously used by Tipu Sultan as a summer retreat, and several traces of the Sultan’s life and legacy can be found in the area. His summer residence called Tashk-e-Jannat, whose painted walls, intricate archways, high pillars and artfully crafted ceilings attract tourists and visitors even today can still be found there. The hills is also home to some famous temples and shrines including the Bhoga Nandeeshwara Temple which is dedicated to Lord Shiva and his companions – Parvati and Nandi. One of the oldest temples in the area, the temple is an architectural wonder and pilgrimage spot. The hills are also famous for its trekking trails, cycling routes and adventure sports such as paragliding.
Built in the year 1878, the Tudor style Bangalore Palace boasts of massive courtyards, bright interiors, kingly grounds, splendid spiral staircases, stately towers and a luscious garden in a proud display of posh regality. Chamarajendra Wadiyar’s British guardians bought the original property in 1873 from the principal of Bangalore Central High School, Rev, J Garret for 40,000 rupees. The palace is vast and spread across 45,000 square feet and is built in a mixture of Tudor and Scottish Gothic architectural styles. The wooden structure of the palace along with the beautiful carvings both inside and outside showcases the royal culture in different ways. It is believed that the inspiration for the palace came from Windsor Castle in London.
The most prominent features of the Palace like the two-level granite structure of the fortified towers and turreted parapets take direct inspiration from the Tudor building styles. The entrance is decorated with grand Roman arches. The exterior of the building is covered in eccentric shapes and angles. The exterior walls are of a blushing cinnabar shade that gives the building a quaint Victorian vibe. The floor of the open courtyard of the Palace is adorned with granite seats covered with azure ceramic tiles. The ground floor also contains a beautifully decorated ballroom. On the first floor, there is a distinct chamber known as the Durbar Hall attached to an ornate staircase. The hall is famous for the enormous elephant head that is mounted in it and its gothic style tinted glass windows. The Palace houses some of the most famous paintings of the 19th Century, including the works of one of India’s most celebrated artists Raja Ravi Verma. You can avail of audio tapes, available in English and Hindi to understand its history. The palace is open from 10 am to 5:30 pm and the entry fee is INR 230 for Indian nationals and INR 460 for foreigners.
Originally built as a mud fort by Kempe Gowda I in 1537, Bangalore Fort was transformed into a stone fort by Haider Ali in 1761. Unfortunately, 20 years later, the fort fell into the hands of the British and the entire fort was dismantled and reconstructed into schools, hospitals and roads etc. Today, only the ruins remain of what was once a stronghold of Tipu Sultan; Delhi Gate and two primary bastions. The fort premises include several structures which include Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace. Also called Rash-e-Zannat or the Envy of Heavens, the Summer Palace was entirely made up of teakwood framework and Islamic interiors. Inside the ruins, you can see several artificial ponds, arsenals, rest areas and half a century old Ganpati shrine. The beautiful paintings and murals on the walls narrate the ruler’s bravery and chivalry and his hatred towards the British.
The fort was spread across a mile and was flanked by wide ditches which were commanded by 26 towers encircling its ramparts and protecting the palace from all the sides. In 1791, the fort was attacked by the British East India Company led by Lord Cornwallis, after killing almost 2,000 people. Following the bloody battle, the British Army captured the palace and ruptured through the walls during the Third Mysore War near the Delhi Gate. With an unusual oval shape, protected by thick walls, you can, even today see the marks caused by the British. One of the distinct features of the fort is a tall gate with three massive iron knobs that suggest guarded quarters and is reminiscent of the ancient Karnataka architecture with carvings of lotus, peacocks, elephants, birds and other elaborate motifs.
An exquisite example of Indo- Islamic architecture, the opulent palace was once used as a summer retreat by the king. The palace boasts of ornamental frescoes, magnificent arches, protruding balconies and brilliant motifs. The construction of the fort started during the reign of Hyder Ali and was completed in 1791, during Tipu Sultan’s rule. Among the several unique aspects of the two-storeyed palace are its stone plinths, exquisitely carved huge wooden pillars, glorifying brackets and its all- around idyllic and placid setting. The walls and ceilings are handsomely painted in vivid colours and intricately carved in beautiful floral patterns and designs that portray Indo-Islamic architecture. After the death of Tipu Sultan, the British used the monument for its Secretariat until about 1868, before moving to Attara Kacheri. Recently a small part of the fort has also been converted into a museum showcasing various events of the life and times of Tipu Sultan. The fort and palace are open all days of the week, except Sundays from 10 am to 5:30 pm and from 8:30 am to 5 pm on Sundays and entry fees are INR 5 for Indians and INR 200 for foreigners. You also need to pay INR 25 per camera you plan on taking inside the fort and palace.
The Devanahalli Fort is located 35 kms north of Bangalore and is a living example of the extensive battles fought and won. In ruins today, the fort once was the birthplace and residence of Tipu Sultan. Sprawling over a vast area of 20 acres, the building is essentially made of stone and mortar and was originally built in 1501 by the Mallebyre Gowda during the reign of Saluva Dynasty, until the Dalwai of Mysore Nanjarajaiah occupied it in 1749. Later it was taken over by Hyder Ali before finally being passed on to Tipu Sultan. The fort boasts of twelve semi-circular bastions, each with a gun-point view and a spacious battlement. The entrances, though relatively small are decorated with cut- plasterwork, and the main attraction is the chief residence of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan. The memorial is a six foot tall enclosure with pillars. The fort is currently a residence for many as several families inhabit the place. Among the umpteen temples located inside the premises of the fort, the Venugopalswamy temple is the oldest and houses several idols of local deities. Other temples include the Siddheswar Swamy temple, the Raghabendraswamy Math, the Chandramouleswar Temple etc. Though in a dilapidated state and crumbling with most of the walls covered in graffiti, the fort manages to retain some of its yesteryear grandeur and glory. The best time to visit the fort is during the summer season due to the many mango and tamarind plantations which bear fruit in summer and which you can enjoy while visiting the fort. Although the fort is open 24 hours a day for the visitors, it is advisable to visit during the day time.
Described by Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru as ‘a temple dedicated to the nation’, the Vidhana Soudha, which is influenced by the House of Commons in London, houses the State Legislature and the Secretariat of the Karnataka State is the largest state legislative building in the country. With four entrances in all four directions and four floors above the ground level and one below it, the structure is known as the ‘Taj Mahal of South India’ and is seen as one of the most magnificent buildings in the city. The entire monument is illuminated on Sundays and public holidays, usually between 6-8 pm and is a sight for sore eyes. The foundation stone was laid down by the then Prime Minister of India, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru along with then Karnataka Chief Minister K.C. Reddy on 13 July 1951 construction took five years and it was inaugurated in 1956. The Vidhana Soudha stands 150 feet tall and boasts of an elegant and truly exquisite Neo-Dravidian style of architecture. Spread over an expanse of 60 acres, this stunning white building has many carved pillars, pediments, bases, arches as well as cornices. With four different floors, the building has a porch on its eastern side, with 12 huge columns of granite. Additionally, the central dome of the building is supported by eight pillars, with a crown of the four-headed lion, the national emblem of the country. The structure has almost 300 rooms, which accommodate around twenty-two different departments of the State Government. As of now, its replica, called the Vikasa Soudha has been built by the Karnataka Government adjacent to it, which acts as a secretariat building. The Vidhan Soudha is open from 10 am to 5:30 pm and is closed on weekends and public holidays. You do need to take permission to enter as this is a highly sensitive building.
The Bull Temple, also known as Nandi Temple, is one of the oldest temples in Bangalore. Popularly called the ‘Dodda Basavana Gudi’ by locals, the temple is the biggest temple dedicated to Nandi in the world and is located the Bugle Rock park. Nandi or the bull in Hindu mythology is the mount or vahana of Lord Shiva and the guardian deity of Lord Shiva’s abode, Kailashagiri; according to Hindu traditions. This temple is a must-visit destination because Nandi holds great importance to Lord Shiva. The architectural style of the Bull Temple is mainly Dravidian and was constructed by Kempe Gowda. It is believed that the origin of the river Vrishabhavati is at the feet of Nandi. The entire sculpture of the bull is carved out of one single granite rock. The statue is 4.5 meters high and 6.5 meters long. Coconut oil and butter which are regularly applied to this statue has led to the originally grey statue to turn black. On the premises of the Bull Temple, there is also a beautiful temple of Ganesh, the beloved son of Lord Shiva. An interesting fact about this temple is that the statue of Lord Ganesh is made entirely of butter! It takes about 110 kilos of butter to make this artistic statue, and a new statue is made every four years. What is really astonishing and noteworthy is that in the four-year tenure of each butter sculpture, the butter doesn’t melt or change shape even once. The butter that makes the statue of the deity is then distributed to the devotees as Prasad or offerings. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 8 pm.
Built in 1972, the Ragigudda Sri Prasanna Anjaneya temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman for his unconditional divinity and devotion towards Lord Sri Rama. Located on top of a quaint hillock, believed to have originated out of a mound of Ragi or Finger Millet in the Jayanagar area, the temple houses a Shivaling in addition to a huge gorgeous idol of Hanuman and beautiful shrines of Ram, Sita and Lakshman. Spread over 5 acres, the temple complex boasts of a beautiful water tank called the Pushkarni, an auditorium, a tiny prasad division and an amphitheatre. It also flaunts an artificially created waterfall which prettifies the already enchanting hill top view. The temple has gained immense popularity in the last few years with the foot of the shrine having tiny temples of Lord Ganesha, Rajarajeshwari, Devi and the Navgrahas. The most important festival of the temple is the Hanuman Jayanti, which is a 12- day long festival and is a grand event, celebrated with a lot of zeal and fervour. The temple is open from 8 am to 12 noon and again from 5 to 8:30 pm on weekdays and from 8 am to 1 pm and then again between 5 to 8:30 pm on weekends.
Located in the suburbs of Ulsoor, the Halasuru Someshwara Temple is dedicated to the Hindu deity Lord Shiva. Dating back to the Chola period, the temple is the oldest in Bangalore and was built around the 12th and the 13th centuries by the Hoysalas, but major modifications and additions were made during the Vijayanagar empire. Today the temple is managed and maintained by the Endowment Department of the Karnataka government. There is an interesting story about the temple’s origin which goes that once Kempe Gowda travelled far away from his town while hunting and he took rest napping under a tree where he dreamt that Lord Someshwara asked him to construct a temple using the treasure buried there. The most fascinating feature of the temple are the elaborate sculptures of Ravana holding the Kailash Parvat to please Lord Shiva, Goddess Durga slaying the demon Mahishasura, scenes from the wedding of Lord Shiva and Parvati, images of the Saptarishis etc. Constructed in the Vijayanagar style of architecture, the shrine has beautiful carvings on the walls and serene interiors. Other than the main temple, the premises are dotted with smaller shrines of other deities including Kamakshamma, Arunachaleswara, Bhimeswara, Nanjundeswara and Panchalingeswara. The temple is very popular among the locals and you can see throngs of worshippers, especially during the time of Mahashivrathri. The temple is open daily from 6 am to 12 noon and again from 5:30 to 9 pm but the best time to visit the temple is either during the early morning or in the evening.
Built in the 16th century by Kempe Gowda, the rock-cut architectural temple is also known as the Gavipuram Cave Temple. In the forecourt of the temple lies mysterious stone discs that allow the sun’s rays to shine on the shrine during a particular time of a year. The temple is basically carved on a rock where the major sections of the outside appearance include monolithic pillars and two fans on the patio where the pillars represent Trishul and Damaru. The two granite pillars holding the gigantic disks of the Sun and the Moon and the other two showcasing several Nandi bulls are some of the outer features of the temple with few other monolithic structures. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva where on the day of Makar Sankranti the arc over the horns of Nandi allows the sunbeams to pass through the cave and illuminate the Shiva lingam. This unique phenomenon and the technical excellence of this cave temple attracts devotees from all over the world to witness the surreal sight. The temple is located in the Gavipuram area which is about 3 km from the city market. The best time to visit is during the Maha Shivratri celebrations or during the sunrise time. Otherwise the the temple is open from 6 am to 8 pm on all days of the week.
Built in 1882, the St. Mary’s Basilica is the oldest church in Bangalore and is the only church in the state that has been elevated to the status of a minor basilica. A spacious gothic-style Church built in the form of a cross, designed by a French architect, the basilica is 172 feet long and 50 feet broad. The imposing and magnificent tower forming the facade of the Church is 160 feet in height. A beautiful statue of Mother Mary holding Child Jesus in her arms, 6 feet in height, is set up in an attractive shrine just outside the Church building. The exterior is built in the shape of a cross arranged in gothic style architecture by a French artist. Every day, Our Mother Mary is draped in a saree, and it is said that when the new Church was built, people tried to remove this statue to install it on a prominent altar inside the Church, but they failed in their effort since the statue remained immovable. This strange occurance is considered to date a sign of Our Lady’s miraculous power. The Main Feast of the Church is celebrated with all grandeur on the 8th of September, the Feast day of the Nativity of Blessed Virgin Mary, every year. This feast, which is celebrated for 10 days annually, is considered one of utmost importance by the people, in the whole of the Archdiocese and the state of Karnataka. It is a marvellous sight to behold with its towering façade, glass windows and the loving statues of Mother Mary. On the tenth day, which falls on the 8th of September, is celebrated as the birthday of Mother Mary where the entire church brims with colors and joys followed by conducting social services that include feeding the needy and underprivileged. The best time to visit is in September during the feast of St. Mary and the basilica is open daily between 6 am to 8 pm.
Named of the founder of Bengaluru, the Kempegowda Museum is situated on the first floor of Mayo Hall. The enticing glass floor with an 18th-century map that runs throughout is one of the enticing features of the museum and second being the fiberglass statue of Kempe Gowda in the center of the museum. It is an interesting place to visit for the archeology and history buffs as it exhibits paintings and statue of the time when Kempe Gowda actually initiated the foundation or the blueprint of the town, the four towers which marked the boundary of the city with various old names for the places which are recognized differently today. Located in the Ashok Nagar suburb, the best time to visit is during the weekday when it is not as packed as it usually gets during weekends. Open from 10 am to 5 pm daily on weekdays, you need to pay INR 50 for an adult and INR 30 for a student as entry fee.
The HAL Aerospace Museum was inaugurated in 2001 at the Hindustan Aeronautics Limited premises, the museum being established with the objective of educating the public about the journey of HAL, one of Asia’s largest and most important aeronautical companies, be it historical, scientific or academic. The museum proudly boasts of the giant leaps Indian aviation has taken, both commercially as well as in terms of defence, giving the visitors an all-inclusive aerospace experience in the most effective environment possible. The museum gives the visitor the best possible insight into the aeronautical history of HAL and India – its experiments, achievements and possibilities; and at the same time, they also get to have a glimpse of some of the most powerful possessions of the Indian Air Force. Currently, the HAL Heritage Centre and Aerospace Museum together form the most massive aeronautical complex of South Asia in terms of production, maintenance, development and exhibition of fighter and commercial aircrafts, helicopters and all their engineering parts and accessories. If you are an aviation enthusiast, this museum can’t be missed if you are in Bangalore. The museum is open from 9 am to 4:30 pm on all days of the week. Adults pay INR 50 to enter while entry is free for children under three years of age. Students upon showing a valid ID and children between the ages of 4 to 18 pay INR 30. You need to pay INR 50 for bringing in a still camera while it costs INR 75 to bring inside a video camera. If you want to have a go at the simlutators in the museum, you need to pay INR 50 for the Basic Simulator Game and INR 100 for the Motion Simulator.
Built to honour the famous scientist and Bharat Ratna receipient, Sir M Visvesvarya, the Visvesvaraya Industrial and Technological Museum, spread over an area of 43,000 sq feet is located in Kasturbha Road amongst the Cubbon Park area. The museum was inaugurated by India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru, in 1962. The place is utterly engaging for both children and adults who once enter the building get engrossed various age-old fossils, mechanical gadgets, and gears, information on space with space models, satellite, electrical, biotech and chemistry models etc. The first ever gallery exhibition displayed by the museum was based on the principles of Electricity and was open to the public on the 27 July 1965. Designed on the theme of a Science Museum, the museum houses four floors dedicated to a scientific discipline each, with the topmost floor, the fifth floor which is now converted into a food court. The museum’s décor has been inspired by the ancient scientific tools and machinery like Wright Brothers’ Kitty Hawk, flying stimulators and other similar objects. The backdrop shows surreal pictures and animations of changing the climate, various sea and land dynamics and different planetary positions. The centre has seven permanent gallery displays consisting of copious exhibits of a steam engine, aeroplanes, motor power etc. In addition to this, the museum has a virtual gaming zone, a tiny planetarium and a 3D visual display centre for recreation. The centre aims to promote the importance of science in everyday life by its interactive demonstrations and by conducting experiments. Open from 10 am to 6 pm daily, adults need to pay INR 50 as entry fees.
This was Bangalore or Bengaluru and in the next post, we’ll visit Mysore or Mysuru as it’s called now as well as some other places.
The southwestern state of Karnataka was formed on 1 November 1956, with the passage of the States Reorganisation Act. Originally known as the State of Mysore, it was renamed Karnataka in 1973 and the state corresponds to the Carnatic region with the capital and its lagest city being Bengaluru.
The state is bordered by the Arabian Sea to the west, Goa to the northwest, Maharashtra to the north, Telangana to the northeast, Andhra Pradesh to the east, Tamil Nadu to the southeast, and Kerala to the south. It is the only southern state to have land borders with all of the other 4 southern Indian sister states. The state covers an area of about 5.83 percent of the total geographical area of India and is the sixth largest Indian state by area and the eighth largest state by population. Karnataka is the fourth largest state in terms of economy. The state language is Kannada, which is one of India’s classical languages. One unique aspect of Karnataka is that the state contains some of India’s only villages where the ancient language of Sanskrit is primarily spoken.
The generally accepted notion for the state name is that the word Karnataka is derived from the Kannada words karu and nādu, which means “elevated land”. Karu Nadu may also be read as karu, meaning “black” and nadu, meaning “region”, as a reference to the black cotton soil found in the Bayalu Seeme region of the state. The ancient Tamil scripture, Shilappadigaram has references to Karunaadaar, which refer to this region, which some experts believe is the sanskritised version of Kannadar referring to the two tribes of Kanna and Nadar who lived in this area. There is also some reference to Karnata Desa in ancient texts which could also be why the state got the name Karnataka. The early references to Karnata Desa can be found in texts like Sambhava Parva and Bhisma Parva of the Mahabharata. The British used the word Carnatic, sometimes Karnatak, to describe both sides of peninsular India, south of the Krishna.
With an antiquity that dates to the paleolithic, Karnataka has been home to some of the most powerful empires of ancient and medieval India. The philosophers and musical bards patronised by these empires launched socio-religious and literary movements which have endured to the present day. Karnataka has contributed significantly to both forms of Indian classical music, the Carnatic and Hindustani traditions.
Karnataka’s pre-history goes back to a paleolithic hand-axe culture as evidenced by discoveries of, among other things, hand axes and cleavers in the region. Gold discovered in Harappa was found to be imported from mines in Karnataka, prompting scholars to hypothesise about contacts between ancient Karnataka and the Indus Valley Civilisation. Prior to the third century, most of Karnataka formed part of the Nanda Empire before coming under the Mauryan empire of Emperor Ashoka. Four centuries of Satavahana rule followed, allowing them to control large areas of the state. The decline of Satavahana power led to the rise of the earliest native kingdoms, the Kadambas and the Western Gangas, marking the region’s emergence as an independent political entity. The Kadamba Dynasty, founded by Mayurasharma, had its capital at Banavasi in northern Karnataka while the Western Ganga Dynasty was formed with Talakad as its capitalclose to the border with Tamil Nadu. These were also the first kingdoms to use Kannada in administration.
These were followed by imperial Kannada empires such as the Badami Chalukyas, the Rashtrakuta Empire of Manyakheta and the Western Chalukya Empire, who ruled over large parts of the Deccan and had their capitals in what is today the state of Karnataka. The Western Chalukyas patronised a unique style of architecture and Kannada literature which became the precursor to the Hoysala art of the 12th century. Parts of modern-day Southern Karnataka, also known as Gangavadi were occupied by the Chola Empire at the turn of the 11th century. In early 12th century, this region was the bone of contention between the Cholas and the Hoysalas before eventually coming under Hoysala rule.
At the turn of the first millennium, the Hoysalas gained power in the region. Literature flourished during this time, which led to the emergence of distinctive Kannada literary metres and the construction of temples and sculptures adhering to the Vesara style of architecture and the expansion of the Hoysala Empire brought minor parts of modern Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu under its rule. In the early 14th century, Harihara and Bukka Raya established the Vijayanagara empire with its capital, Hosapattana, later named Vijayanagara, on the banks of the Tungabhadra River in modern Bellary district. The empire rose as a bulwark against Muslim advances into South India, which it completely controlled for over two centuries.
In 1565, Karnataka and the rest of South India experienced a major geopolitical shift when the Vijayanagara empire fell to a confederation of Islamic sultanates in the Battle of Talikota. The Bijapur Sultanate, soon took control of the Deccan but was defeated by the Mughals in the late 17th century. The Bahmani and Bijapur rulers encouraged Urdu and Persian literature as well as the Indo-Saracenic architecture, the Gol Gumbaz being one of the high points of this style. During the 16th century, Konkani Hindus migrated to Karnataka, mostly from Salcette, Goa, while during the 17th and 18th centuries, Goan Catholics migrated to the North Canara and South Canara regions, as a result of food shortages, epidemics and heavy taxation imposed by the Portuguese.
In the period that followed, parts of northern Karnataka were ruled by the Nizam of Hyderabad, the Maratha Empire, the British, and others. The Mysore Kingdom, a former vassal of the Vijayanagara Empire, in south Karnataka was briefly independent, but with the death of Maharaja Krishnaraja Wodeyar II, Haidar Ali, the commander-in-chief of the Mysore army, gained control of the region. After his death, the kingdom was inherited by his son Tipu Sultan, both of whom four significant Anglo-Mysore wars to contain the European expansion in South India, the last of which resulted in Tippu Sultan’s death and the incorporation of Mysore into the British Raj in 1799. The Kingdom of Mysore was restored to the Wodeyars and Mysore remained a princely state under the British Raj.
Dissent and resistance from princely states from across the country fanned the flames of rebellions in Karnataka in 1830 and by the late 19th century, the independence movement had gained momentum leading to India’s independence in 1947. After independence, the Maharaja of Mysore, Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar, acceded his kingdom’s to India and in 1950, Mysore became an Indian state of the same name with the former Maharaja serving as its Rajpramukh or head of state until 1975. Following the long-standing demand of the Ekikarana Movement, the Kodagu and Kannada-speaking regions from the adjoining states of Madras, Hyderabad and Bombay were incorporated into the Mysore state, under the States Reorganisation Act of 1956 and the newly expanded state was renamed Karnataka, in 1973.
The state has three principal geographical zones – the coastal region of Karavali, the hilly Malenadu region comprising of the Western Ghats and the Bayaluseeme region comprising the plains of the Deccan Plateau. The bulk of the state is in the Bayaluseeme region, the northern part of which is the second-largest arid region in India.
The diverse linguistic and religious ethnicities native to the state, combined with their long histories, have contributed immensely to the varied cultural heritage of Karnataka. Apart from Kannadigas, Karnataka is home to the Tuluvas, Kodavas and Konkanis. Minor populations of Tibetan Buddhists and tribes like the Soligas, Yeravas, Todas and Siddhis also live here. Yakshagana of Malnad and coastal Karnataka, a classical dance drama, is one of the major theatrical forms of Karnataka. Sringeri in previously. The Dusshera festival of Mysore is a highlight of the state and is famous all over the world.
In terms of tourism, the state has something for everyone. Be it ancient sculptured temples, modern cities, scenic hill ranges, forests or beaches, this state has everything. Karnataka has been ranked as the fourth most popular destination for tourism among the states of India and has the second highest number of nationally protected monuments in India, second only to Uttar Pradesh. In addition to 752 monuments protected by the State Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, there are 25,000 monuments yet to receive protection.
As I explore each state, I will start with the capital city of Bengaluru which is very close to my heart, then it’s cultural heart, Mysuru followed by other major cities and then some beaches from its coastline, wildlife reserves and hillstations. So let’s explore Bengaluru in our next post.
Today is the festival of Avani Avittam and Raksha Bandhan. Both are festivals which are male centric festivals and which come on the same day each year. I have written about both festivals previously so will not go into the details here. I have always wondered why two diverse festivals – one celebrated in North India and the other mostly in South India, which are possibly the only festivals in the respective cultures which are a celebration of the male gender fall on the same day. Recently I had a ephipany. In both these festivals, the star of the show, if we can call it that, are threads that bind us to our loved ones, to our traditions and to our roots.
During Avani Avittam, which typically falls on the full moon day of the Shravan month, male Brahmin men and boys who have had their thread ceremony done, reaffirm their faith as a twice born and by changing their sacred thread, they symbolically throw away their sins of the previous year and start the year on a clean slate.
The festival is one of the most auspicious festivals for Brahmins and the day is an important one for those who follow the Yajurveda as on this day they start reading Yajur Veda, which they continue to read for the next six months. It is believed that on Avani Avittam, Lord Vishnu has reincarnation himself as Lord Hayagriya, who is seen as the symbol of wealth and knowledge. On this day, God Vishnu who is worshiped as the high deity power actually restored the Vedas to Brahma.
There is a story behind these sacred threads. Lord Brahma, the creator was filled with pride for knowing the entire Veda. Lord Vishnu to crush his pride created two demons Madhu and Kaitabha to steal Vedas from him. Brahma then not being able to save Vedas, he asked Vishnu to help him restore it. Lord Vishnu took the form of Hayagriva and restored the Vedas and supressed the pride of Brahma. Hence, Hayagriva incarnation is associated with knowledge and wisdom.This day is celebrated as Upakarma(Beginning) also called as Hayagriva utpatti. Restoration of Vedas is known as a mark of new beginning and hence Upakarama is celebrated.This day is also referred as Hayagriva Jayanti.
The sacred thread comprises of three strands, joined by a knot known as Brahmagranthi or the knot of Brahma. The three strands symbolise the Hindu trinity – Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. There are other interpretations which represent many of the other triads like Mahasaraswati, Mahalakshmi and Mahakali; or the three tendencies known as sattva or harmony, rajas or passion and tamas or chaos. You could also interpret the three strands as the link between the past, present and the future or the three states of wakefulness, dream and deep sleep. Some even say that it represents the three dimensions known as heaven or swarga, earth or martyaloka and the nether regions or patala. The sacred thread is also a kind of an indication to the marital status of the wearer. An unmarried man will wear one thread of three stands, a married man will wear two and a married man who has had his first child will wear three. In the old days, when most men did not wear a upper garment, this was the indicator people had about their marital status and if they had any children.
This year, the ceremony of changing the sacred thread was done online at our home. S and BB woke up early and after completing their morning prayers, sat down in front of the laptop where they joined others across the island on a video platform where the resident priest chanted the mantras and went through the ceremony with them. We also received the new sacred thread by post last week after signing up and paying for the ceremony online.
BB had to rush for school, so GG quickly tied her thread of love on his wrist before he headed out of the house.
These are the threads that tie us to our roots and our traditions. I call these ceremonies and functions our anchors because without them, we are left floundering and rootless. Especially in today’s world which is so uncertain and vague, it is good to hold on to traditions that are special to you. Your lineage, irrespective of where you come from, goes back at least a few hundred years, if not millennia, so be proud of who you are and where you come from, so you can show your children and your grandchildren where they can go to.
Happy Raksha Bandhan and Avani Avittam to everyone celebrating these festivals.
Pathankot Located about 130 km north of Kapurthala and on the border between Punjab and Himachal Pradesh, and close to the border between Punjab and the union territory of Jammu & Kashmir, Pathankot is a border district, sharing an international border with Pakistan on its west. Due to its location, Pathankot serves as a travel hub for these three northerly states. The city is the sixth largest in the state and is situated in the picturesque foothills of Kangra and Dalhousie, with the river Chakki flowing close by. The city is often used as a rest-stop before heading into the mountains of Jammu and Kashmir, Dalhousie, Chamba, Kangra, Dharamshala, Mcleodganj, Jwalaji, Chintpurni and deep into the Himalayas. Pathankot also serves as the education hub for the nearby areas of Jammu & Kashmir and Himachal Pradesh with many students from rural areas of these states coming to Pathankot to complete their education.
An ancient city with historical significance, Pathankot’s ancient name may have been Audumbara. Numerous coins of antiquity found at Pathankot prove that it is one of the oldest sites in the Punjab region. Pathankot was the capital of Nurpur State and its name was changed to Dhameri Nurpur during the Akbar reign. The Pathania clan of Rajput derived its name from ancient name of Pathankot which was Paithan at that time. After the independence of India, Pathankot, has developed as an important township because of it’s strategic location which has prompted the establishment of an army presence and air force station. After the liberalisation of the Indian economy, Pathankot emerged as a commercial center of wholesalers and distributors of consumer goods and services, catering to Himachal Pradesh, J&K and northwest Punjab.
Nurpur Fort is a 900 year old fort, popular for its ancient Krishna temple located in the inner sanctum. It was built by Pathania Rajputs and later Shah Jahan named it after his beloved wife Nur Jahan. The fort was quite badly damaged during the 1905 earthquake and is located about 25 km away from Pathankot.
The Shahpurkandi fort is located approximately 20 km from Pathankot City and was built in 1505 by a Rajput chief named Jaspal Singh Pathania who was a subordinate of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. It was strategically located to have control over the Kangra and Nurpur region, but today, the fort is in ruins.
One of the most popular local shrines, the Mukteshwar temple is an ancient temple which is almost 350 years old and is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The shrine is about 25 km from the city in the village of Doong on the banks of the river Ravi. Perched on top of the highest point in Mukteshwar, a beautiful hill station that got its name after the shrine, the temple lies approximately 2312 m above the sea level. The temple is the perfect location for breathtaking views of the area and you can click some wonderful photos from here. This grand temple is identified as one of the eighteen most important temples dedicated to Lord Shiva in the Hindu scripture. A white marble Shiva Linga is also present here which has a copper yoni. In addition to the Shiva Linga, there are idols of other deities as well including Lord Ganesha, Brahma, Vishnu, Parvati, Hanuman, and Nandi. There are some caves which purportedly date to the time of the Mahabharata. According to legend, the Pandavas stayed in those caves for a night during their exile. This temple is said to be 5,500 years old, dating it to the time of Mahabharata.[citation needed]The Mukteshwar temple is considered vital and holds a lot of significance for the community of iron ore miners known as ‘agaries’. You can trek to the temple and the trek is said not to be very challenging with the way up to the temple covered with fruit orchards and forests and the trek should take around 2 hours to complete.
Located in the village of Kathgarh, the Pracheen Shiv Mandir Kathgarh temple is renowned for its 6 ft high Shivalinga. Devoted to Lord Shiva and Parvati, this temple is 25 km from Pathankot on the confluence of the Beas and the Choch rivers. The temple is built in the Roman architectural style, housing two Lingas of light grey sandy stone of 6 feet and and 4.7 feet in height having an octagonal base with every side measuring 1.3 feet above the ground level, personifying Lord Shiva and Parvati respectively. These lingas stand 3.5 feet apart at the bottom, and incline towards each other, being just two inches away from each other at the top.
The Ashapurni Mandir is one of the oldest temples in Pathankot, dedicated to Mata Ashapurni, who is considered to be an extremely powerful deity. The Kanya Poojas and the annual festival of Navratri are celebrated at the temple with great enthusiasm.
Dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi, the Lakshmi Narayan Mandir is a famous temple in the region. It is one of the largest temples in Pathankot and has the idols of the deity in the main shrine and a large statue of Lord Hanuman in the courtyard. With ample space and greenery all around, the temple is a perfect attraction to quite a troubled soul.
The Ranjit Sagar Dam was built for irrigation and power generation on the river Ravi. It is a stunning work of engineering, the highest gravity dam in Asia and the biggest hydroelectric project in Punjab. 60% of the 32 billion cubic metre capacity reservoir formed falls in the Jammu and Kashmir region while the remaining 40% falls in Pathankot. The power plant has four turbines that generate 600 mw of total electricity.
The Hydraulic Research Station is a perfect attraction for engineers and engineering enthusiasts, especially those interested in hydraulics and civil engineering. The station has an impressive display of dam models and models of systems used for irrigation and one can make the most of the simulations and the research information readily available at the station.
Amritsar This is a city that has been on my bucket list for more than a decade now. I have made failed plans to visit Amritsar three times now, the most recent being early this year before the panademic struck, making all travel in 2020 impossible! I am still hopeful that next year, I make it here.
The holiest of all cities in India for adherents of the Sikh faiths, Amritsar, also colloquially known a Ambarsar and historically known as Ramdaspur is home to the Harmandir Sahib or as we know it, “the Golden Temple”. Amritsar is the second-largest city of Punjab and is also one of the fastest growing cities of the state. In the mid 1980s the city was famous for its textile industry, but after the 1984 Sikh riots, the city faced a blow to its industrial growth but there are still many textile mills present in the city. Amritsar is famous for its Pashmina shawls, woolen clothes and blankets. The craft of the Thatheras of the Jandiala Guru in the district got became a part of the UNESCO’s List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2014. Amritsar is very close to India’s border with Pakistan and one of the border crossing called Wagah is in the outskirts of Amritsar at a distance of about 28 km.
The Bhagwan Valmiki Tirath Sthal situated at Amritsar is believed to be the Ashram site of Maharishi Valmiki, the writer of Ramayana. As per the Ramayana, Goddess Sita gave birth to her twin sons, Lava and Kusha, sons of lord Rama at the Ramtirth ashram. A large number of people visit the Ramtirth Temple during its annual fair. Cities close to Amritsar which are Lahore and Kasur, both in today’s Pakistan, were said to be founded by Lava and Kusha respectively. During the Ashvamedha yagna by Lord Rama in the Ramayana, Lava and Kush captured the ritual horse and tied Lord Hanuman to a tree near what is today the Durgiana Temple.
Guru Ram Das, the fourth Sikh guru is credited with founding the holy city of Amritsar in the Sikh tradition. Two versions of stories exist regarding the land where Ram Das settled. In one, based on the gazette record, the land was purchased with Sikh donations, for 700 rupees from the owners of the village of Tung. According to the Sikh historical records, the site was chosen by Guru Amar Das and called Guru Da Chakk, after he had asked Ram Das to find land to start a new town with a man-made pool as its central point. After his coronation in 1574, and the hostile opposition he faced from the sons of Amar Das, Ram Das founded the town named after him as “Ramdaspur”. He started by completing the pool, and building his new official Guru centre and home next to it. He invited merchants and artisans from other parts of India to settle into the new town with him. The town expanded during the time of Arjan financed by donations and constructed by voluntary work. The town grew to become the city of Amritsar, and the pool area grew into a temple complex after his son built the gurdwara Harmandir Sahib, and installed the scripture of Sikhism inside the new temple in 1604. The construction activity between 1574 and 1604 is described in Mahima Prakash Vartak, a semi-historical Sikh hagiography text likely composed in 1741, and the earliest known document dealing with the lives of all the ten Gurus.
The Jallianwala Bagh massacre, involving the killings of hundreds of Indian civilians on the orders of a senior British military officer, Reginald Edward Harry Dyer, took place on 13 April 1919 in the heart of Amritsar, on a day sacred to them as the birth anniversary of the Khalsa, which is Vaisakhi day.
In Punjab, during World War I which took place between 1914 and 1918, there was considerable unrest particularly among the Sikhs, first on account of the demolition of a boundary wall of Gurdwara Rakab Ganj at New Delhi and later because of the activities and trials of the Ghadarites, almost all of whom were Sikhs. On 10 April 1919, Satya Pal and Saifuddin Kitchlew, two popular proponents of the Satyagraha movement led by Gandhi, were called to the deputy commissioner’s residence, arrested and sent off by car to Dharamsetla, a hill town, now in Himachal Pradesh. This led to a general strike in Amritsar. Excited groups of citizens soon merged into a crowd of about 50,000 marchings on to protest to the deputy commissioner against the arrest of the two leaders. The crowd, however, was stopped and fired upon near the railway foot-bridge.
Three days later, on 13 April it was the traditional festival of Baisakhi and thousands of Sikhs, Muslims and Hindus gathered in the Jallianwala Bagh. An hour after the meeting began as scheduled at 4:30 pm, Dyer arrived with a group of sixty-five Gurkha and twenty-five Baluchi soldiers. Without warning the crowd to disperse, Dyer blocked the main exits and ordered his troops to begin shooting toward the densest sections of the crowd. Firing continued for approximately ten minutes. A British inquiry into the massacre placed the death toll at 379. The Indian National Congress determined that approximately 1,000 people were killed.
Operation Blue Star which took place between 1 to 6 June 1984, was an Indian military operation ordered by Indira Gandhi, the Prime Minister of India at that time to curb and remove Sikh militants from the Golden Temple in Amritsar. The operation was carried out by Indian army troops with tanks and armoured vehicles. Militarily successful, the operation aroused immense controversy, and the government’s justification for the timing and style of the attack are hotly debated. Official reports put the number of deaths among the Indian army at 83, with 493 civilians and Sikh militants killed. Four months after the operation, on 31 October 1984, Indira Gandhi was assassinated by two of her Sikh bodyguards in what is viewed as an act of vengeance. Following her assassination, more than 3,000 Sikhs were killed in anti-Sikh pogroms.
The reason most people visit Amritsar, the Golden Temple, also known as Sri Harmandir Sahib, is the holiest shrines in Sikhism. Located right in the heart of Amritsar and is easily reachable from any part of the city, it is seen as a symbol of brotherhood and equality. The Golden Temple is just a small part of the vast complex known as Harmandir Sahib or Darbar Sahib to the Sikhs. You can’t describe the divinity which emanates from this place, you need to experience it. After going through a tumultuous period of demolitions, it was rebuilt by Maharaja Ranjit Singh in 1830 purely with marble and gold. The view of the resplendent shrine, glistening in the centre of the tank brings an infinite calmness to the soul. The spiritual focus of the complex is the tank, the Amrit Sarovar, which surrounds the glistening central shrine. Around the edge of the compound, there are more shrines and monuments. The Sikh Museum is located inside the main entrance clock tower which shows the oppression endured by the Sikhs at the hands of the Mughals, the British and the Indian Government of 1984. The Ramgarhia Bunga is a protective fortress located at the southeast end of the tank and is surrounded by two Islamic-style minarets. The Guru Granth Sahib or the Sikh holy book, is placed inside the temple premises every morning and returned to the Akal Takhat or the timeless throne, which is the temporal seat of the Khalsa brotherhood, every night. This ceremony is called the Palki Sahib, and it provides male visitors with a chance to participate in the veneration of this holy book. The Guru Granth Sahib is carried in a heavy palanquin. The male visitors form a line in the front and back of the palanquin, shouldering the burden for a few seconds before passing it on. This allows every person a chance to participate and rest. The ceremony takes place at 5 am and 9:40 pm during winters and 4 am and 10:30 pm during summer. The temple also has the largest kitchen in the world offering free langar food to people of all religions and faiths. The Guru-Ka-Langar is an enormous dining room located at the southeast end of the temple complex where an estimated 60,000 to 80,000 pilgrims a day come to eat after praying at the Golden Temple. The food is free of charge, but the pilgrims often make donations and offer help with the staggering pile of dishes to be washed. It is a humbling projection of the Sikh doctrine of hospitality, catering to everyone from paupers to millionaires. The food served here is vegetarian to ensure that all people can eat together here, as equals and is often touted as the World’s Largest Free Kitchen.
The Akal Takht or the Throne of the Immortal is the highest political institution of the Sikhs, founded by the sixth Sikh Guru, Guru Hargobind in 1606. Located in the famous Golden Temple complex of Amritsar, the Akal Takht is one of the five Takhts of the Sikhs. The Akal Takht is meant to be a symbol of political sovereignty and justice, where the spiritual and earthly concerns of the Sikh people could be addressed and examined. Situated directly opposite the Harmandir Sahib, this creation was originally a 9-foot high concrete slab built by Guru Hargobind, Baba Buddha and Bhai Gurdas without any external help. The two tall flags symbolise the two swords of Guru Hargobind representing his spiritual authority or Piri and earthly power or Miri by the Akal Takht.Today, the structure is a modern five-story building with marble inlay and gold-leafed dome. The elevated platform inside stands as a symbol of rebellion against Emperor Jehangir, who had ruled that only an emperor can sit on a raised platform. Guru Arjan Dev used to sleep under the cot meant for the Guru Granth Sahib, now known as Kotha Sahib.
The Gurudwara Baba Atal Rai is located inside the Golden Temple complex built in honour of Baba Atal Rai, son of Guru Har Gobind Singh. The 9 storey octagonal tower represents a year in Atal Rai’s life. It is the tallest tower in Amritsar alongside the Kaulsar Sarovar. The last storey of the tower offers visitors a birds-eye view of the bustling town of Amritsar. Devotees believe that having a dip in the holy water of Kaulsar Sarovar brings mysterious wide-spread showers in Amritsar. The langar at the Gurudwara serves the visitors 24 hours a day and is said to be the only continuous langar in Amritsar.
Found within the Golden Temple complex, the Dukh Bhanjani Ber Tree is considered the most sacred tree in Amritsar. The 400-year-old jujube tree, situated on the eastern side of the great Amrit Sarovar, is greatly revered due to the legend and faith of Bibi Rajni, whose leprosy stricken husband was miraculously cured after a dip in the pond close to the tree. It was then named Dukh Bhanjani which means ‘eradictator of suffering’. The sacred pond in the Golden Temple Complex, believed to be the holy pond of healing prophecised by the third Sikh Guru Guru Amar Das Ji, was developed into the famous Amrit Sarovar. While the access to the Amrit Sarovar is restricted, a small portion of it next to the Dukh Bhanjani Beri Tree is available to devotees who wish to take a dip in the holy water. Visitors to the Golden Temple believe that doing so would cure them of their pain and afflictions and that they would receive blessings from the sacred tree.
Located on the banks of river Beas is Gurdwara Goindwal Sahib and around 50 km southeast of Amritsar. It is known as the 1st Sikh pilgrimage site and is where the 3rd Sikh Guru, Sri Guru Amar Das Ji, lived and preached for 33 years. It is also where he coined the idea of langar or community kitchen and where he built a baoli or well from where people of all caste, colour, creed and religion could drink from. The baoli constructed here has 84 steps and many believe that by reciting the Japji Sahib and taking a bath in this well will provide salvation and unity with the Divine by liberating the soul from 84 lakh cycles of living and dying.
The Durgiana Temple, also known as the Lakshmi Narayan Temple, bears a stark resemblance to the famous Golden Temple while also carrying the same sense of peace, tranquillity and spirituality. Within this historic temple lies a beautiful sarovar or lake where one can find idols of Goddess Lakshmi and Lord Vishnu floating. Gur Shai Mal Kapoor, whose statue can be found at the main entrance of the temple, laid the foundation for this temple. The rare sculpture of the sitting Hanuman, considered one of a kind, is found in this temple. Apart from the main temple, one can find many subsidiary temples here. The Bara Hanuman Mandir is where Hanuman was said to be captured by the twins of Rama and Sita. The Mata Sitla Mandir which is dedicated to Sitla, an incarnation of Goddess Durga, sits beside a Shiva Linga and a brass lion. Idols of Sat Narain and Radha Krishna can be found in the premises of the Sat Narain Mandir and the Goswami Tulsidas Mandir is dedicated to Tulsidas where one can find a rare handwritten copy of the Ramayana.
The Shri Ram Tirth Temple was built to honour the birthplace of Luva and Kusha, the twin sons of Rama and Sita. Constructed in lime yellow stone, the temple dates back to the time of the epic Ramayana where Sita was given sanctuary in the Ashram of the sage Valamiki after being abandoned by Rama. The battle of Ram’s Ashwamedha force with Luv-Kush is said to have taken place here. The ancient temple organizes a five-day fair a fortnight after the festival of Diwali, where almost one hundred thousand pilgrims visit to seek blessings. Devotees take a dip in the ancient tank next to the temple on Purnamashi or the full moon night. A tradition called Tulla Torana is practised where lamps made of kneaded flour and ghee are released into the water on the night of the full moon. The practice of this tradition is said to wash away any sins and is said to please Lord Rama. There is a unique belief that the pilgrimage is not complete without giving money or food to charity to the needy.
The Mata Lal Devi Temple, popularly known as the Sheesh Mahal of Amritsar, is famous among pilgrims for its miraculous fertility-improving powers. The temple is dedicated to the female saint Lal Devi and is considered a miniature dimension of the popular Vaishno Devi temple in Jammu. The temple is decorated with shining mirrors that light up the area through the reflecting sunlight and numerous diyas. A man-made cave leads pilgrims to the Goddess’s shrine which can be reached only by crawling or bowing completely. Women from across the country visit this mystic temple in order to seek blessings to bear a child, as the mysterious temple is famous for its ability to improve fertility among women.
The Gobindgarh Fort is a historic fort which represents the glorious past of 257 years, starting with the Bhangi Misl era and ending with the Indian Army after The British East India Company. Gobindgarh Fort was first known as ‘Bhagian da Qilla’ and was built by Gujar Singh in the 1760s. The area has now been developed into a live museum and acts as a repository of Punjab’s history. The Tokshakhana which is now a museum in the fort was used to store the famous Kohinoor diamond. Maharaja Ranjit Singh enhanced the fort, adding elements which were influenced by the French architecture. The monument was opened to the public in 2017 after being restored. The bungalow, one of the attractions at the fort, used to serve as a residence to Garrison Commanders during the British era.
Located near the Golden Temple, Jallianwala Bagh is a public garden that also houses a memorial to commemorate the massacre by the British forces. Spread over 6.5 acres of land, Jallianwala Bagh is associated with one of the saddest days in Indian history when thousands of innocent people were killed on the orders of General Dyer as they gathered for a peaceful celebration of Baisakhi. The place has now been turned into a beautiful park and is managed by the Jallianwala Bagh National Memorial Trust. There is a memorial tablet at the entrance which serves as a record of history. A number of structures are present inside the premises which bear the marks of bullets that were shot at the civilians gathered at the park and a well in which many people jumped to save themselves from the onslaught of the bullets. It is estimated that over a 1000 people, from all religions, lost their lives in this brutal assault. Even after a century, you can still feel the sense of sadness that emanates from this place.
The Maharaja Ranjit Museum is right in the middle of Ram Bagh garden, and used to serve as the summer palace of the first king of the Sikh Empire, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, after whom the museum is named. The museum provides insightful information on the life of the first Sikh monarch, along with history, art and architecture of the Sikh community between the 18th and 19th centuries. Converted to a museum in 1977, the museum consists many artefacts and personal items of the Maharaja such as his armour and weaponry. It also displays fantastic paintings, various manuscripts and coins from centuries, long gone. The museum reflects the rich history of the Sikh empire. The paintings mostly depict scenes from the Sikh monarch’s court and camp. Among all of them, the most famous among observers is the one depicting the city of Lahore. The museum is open from 10 am to 5 pm on all days except on Mondays and Public holidays with an entry fee of INR 10 per person.
The Partition Museum is the first-ever museum in the entire world to focus on the stories and trauma of the millions who had to suffer the consequences of the partition of undivided India. Located at the Town Hall in Amritsar and developed by the Arts and Cultural Heritage Trust (TAACHT), the museum is a part of the newly inaugurated Heritage Street at Amritsar, which begins from the Golden Temple and ends at the Town Hall. The collections at the Partition Museum include newspaper clippings, photographs as well as personal items that were donated by people who had witnessed and lived during the Partition. The museum is devoted primarily to the victims & survivors, and their lasting legacy. The partition of India saw the disorganised displacement of twelve million people to a new land, causing the painful demise of over two million people. The museum is open every day except Monday from 10 am to 6 pm and the entry fee for Indians is INR 10 and that for foreigners is INR 250 per person.
The Punjab State War Heroes Memorial and Museum showcases the bravery of Punjab. Built in both a traditional and modern architectural style, it houses a state-of-the-art gallery where Punjab’s martial tradition and military campaigns can be viewed. Numerous illustrations, photographs, paintings, artefacts, weapons and interactive panels can be found here, letting the tourists go back in time. The museum has a collection of photographs of the 1965 and 1971 war. A mural has been built to commemorate the work and pay tribute to the 21 Sikh soldiers who were martyred in the 1971 war. Tourists can travel back 3 eras, through the pre-British, British and post-independence periods with the special light and sound show organised here. The 7D auditorium is a must-do experience during your visit here, transporting visitors to the war zones of the past. The chief appeal of this fascinating museum is the 45-metre stainless steel sword preserved at the centre of the place. The sword represents the strength and courage of the people defending the nation at the peak hour of war. The glorious sword is placed on a water body with 3500 martyr names inscribed on the memorial wall. The decommissioned aircraft carrier ship MiG-23, INS Vikrant, and 3 tanks are also exhibited here. Open from 10 am to 5 pm every day, the entry fee for the museum is INR 100 per person.
Pul Kanjari, popularly known as Amritsar’s Taj Mahal, is a village located close the Wagah border. Historically significant, this place was the site where Maharaja Ranjit Singh and his troops would rest while travelling between Amritsar and Lahore. An important trading centre during the 18th century, the town was named after a small bridge built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh over the canal between Amritsar and Lahore for his favourite dancer Moran, a Muslim dancer from the nearby village of Makhanpura. Apart from the bridge, one can also admire the fortress of the Maharaja, which houses a Mosque, a Mandir, the Baradari and a Sarovar. A war memorial has been instituted to pay respect to the martyrs of the Indo-Pak wars of 1965 and 1971.
Located at a distance of 28 km from Amritsar, the Wagah Border marks the boundaries between Indian and Pakistani borders, running along the Grand Trunk Road. People from all over the country visit this place to witness the Beating Retreat Ceremony that is held every day before sunset. The flag ceremony has been conducted by the Indian Border Security Force and Pakistan Rangers since 1959. This ceremony includes the closing of the international gates and lowering the flags of both countries and is a spectacle to be witnessed. Every evening, just before the sunset, the soldiers from the Indian and Pakistan military meet at this border post to engage in a 30-minute display of military camaraderie and showmanship. Officially, the purpose of the ceremony is to formally close the border for the night and lower their respective national flags. During the build-up to the ceremony, the crowd engages in chanting the Indian national anthem, rounds of applause and Bollywood-style dancing on Hindi songs. The Beating Retreat Ceremony starts at 4:15 pm in winter and 5:15 pm in summer and lasts for about 45 minutes. Entry is limited, so make sure you are there at least an hour before the ceremony to make sure you are able to enter. The ceremony is a military practice carried out by the Indian Border Security Force and the Pakistan Rangers. It begins with a parade by the soldiers from both the sides, and ends with a coordinated lowering of the flags of both the nations. As the sun sets, the iron gate is opened, with an infantryman standing in attention at both sides of the gate. The flags of India and Pakistan are lowered simultaneously and then folded. The ceremony ends with a retreat that involves a brusque handshake between soldiers of both the sides followed by the closing of the gate.
Since the area is a very sensitive one, there is no mobile phone service available. There is proper seating arrangements for the visitors and select seats are reserved for women, while the general seating is allowed for men. Irrespective of where you sit, you should get a good view of the ceremony because the place is constructed like a stadium. There are separate stands for foreign tourists, and these stands are the second-best seat, just behind the VIP section. So if you are a foreign national, don’t forget to carry your passport to claim this seat. Cameras are permitted, but bags are prohibited. Lockers are available beside the entrance gate to keep your belongings at a cost of INR 50. There is no entry fee and seating is on a first come, first serve basis.
This ends my small series on the state of Punjab, one I have learnt a lot in the last few years from my helper R. This state, which along with West Bengal suffered the most during partition is one I hope to visit soon. Here’s a small documentary I saw some years back on the Samjhauta Express, a train that plies between Attari near Amritsar, India and Lahore, Pakistan. I recently rewatched it and thought it to be a fitting end to this series.
Memories and Such 