Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 55 – Sabah Part 4

Sandakan
Formerly known at various times as Elopura, Sandakan is the second largest city in Sabah after Kota Kinabalu and is located on the Sandakan Peninsula on Sabah’s east coast.

Before the founding of Sandakan, the Sulu Archipelago was the source of dispute between Spain and the Sultanate of Sulu for economic dominance in the region. By 1864, Spain had blockaded the Sultanate’s possessions in the Sulu Archipelago. The Sultanate of Sulu awarded a German consular service ex-member a piece of land in the Sandakan Bay to seek protection from Germany. In 1878, the Sultanate sold north-eastern Borneo to an Austro-Hungarian consul who later left the territory to a British colonial merchant. The German presence in the area raised concern among the British. As a result, a protocol was signed between the British, German and Spanish to recognise Spanish sovereignty over the Sulu Archipelago, in return for the Spanish not intervening in British affairs in northern Borneo.

Sandakan began to prosper when the British North Borneo Company, BNBC started to build a new settlement in 1879, developing it into an active commercial and trading centre as well as making it the main administrative centre for North Borneo. The British also encouraged the migration of the Chinese from British Hong Kong to develop the economy of Sandakan. However, the prosperity halted when the Japanese occupied the area. As the war continued and Allied bombing started in 1944, the town was destroyed. Unable to fund the costs of the reconstruction, the administrative powers of North Borneo were handed over to the Crown Colony government. Subsequently, the administrative capital of North Borneo was moved to Jesselton.

The first European settlement was built by a Scottish arms smuggler from Glasgow named William Clark Cowie who named the settlement Sandakan, which in the Suluk language means the place that was pawned. It was soon renamed Kampong German, due to the presence of several German bases there. When another new settlement was built shortly after the previous Cowie settlement had been destroyed by a fire, it was called Elopura, meaning beautiful town by the British North Borneo Company but the locals persisted in using the old name and later it was changed back to Sandakan. Besides Elopura, it was also nicknamed Little Hong Kong due to the strong presence of ethnic Chinese migration from Hong Kong, mainly Cantonese and Hakka.

Sandakan is one of the six districts that is involved in the Eastern Sabah Security Command or ESSCOM, a dusk-to-dawn sea curfew which had been enforced since 19 July 2014 by the Malaysian government to repel attacks from militant groups in the Southern Philippines. Sandakan is located about 28 km from the international border with the Philippines.

The Kinabatangan River is one of the most prominent and accessible places in Asia to see a variety of flora and fauna. The river is home to more than 200 bird species and more than 50 mammals along with ten primate species. The significant animals are the proboscis monkey and the Bornean gibbon. The river is about 560 km long and is Malaysia’s second-longest river. The name Kinabatangan is a reference to the early Chinese trades who settled around the river mouth of the river. The word Kina is a direct reference to the Dunsun tribe of the Chinese settlers. Chinese traders had settled in the river mouth of Kinabatangan since the 7th century and used trading as a means to live their livelihood. Visitors can opt for a boat ride from Sandakan Yacht Club to the Sukau Rainforest at 1 pm. The boat ride to the lodge takes less than 3 hours and visitors can also get a glimpse into Borneo’s wildlife and natural beauty.

The Kinabatangan River basin has five different habitats: waterlogged forests, saline swamps, dry forests, freshwater swamps, and limestone forests. The distinct habitats allow wildlife to thrive and are home to several hundred species. The Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary was founded in 2006 and safeguards 27,800 hectares of the area.

The river cruise is the top thing to do at Kinabatangan River. Several tour packages have different cruises at different price ranges. It’s a magical experience and visitors will be left in awe when they see the sunrise in the river. There are 3 river cruises every day and visitors can choose their ride timing according to their convenience. Timings for the River Cruises are 6 am, 4 pm and between 7 and 9 pm. The morning hours are great for visitors who want to gaze at birds while evening time is great for visitors who want to watch monkeys and crocodiles. The nighttime River Cruise ride is great for visitors who want to experience the river at night while observing the nocturnal animals.

The jungle Trek is an activity for adventure seekers only. Oxbow Lake is the prominent trekking site in this area and visitors are recommended to do planning before they begin the trek. Gomantong Cave is a bat haven and home to many swiftlets. The cave is an impressive wonder and is also a hotspot for several other animals, particularly orangutans. However, the cave is also full of cockroaches and faeces which can be disgusting for visitors. The river is one of the best spots to watch animals and birds thrive in their natural surroundings. The most prominent bird in this part is the Hornbill, which can be spotted easily. The Orangutans and wild monkeys are the more common animals found in this area.

The best time to visit Kinabatangan River would be March to September as this period foresees the least rain which can allow visitors to enjoy their trip more. This is also the best time to spot Orangutans and other forms of wildlife. The dry climate of these months allows visitors to spot more wildlife and travel more comfortably.

The Sandakan Heritage Museum is located on the 1st floor of the Wisma Warisan building, next to the Sandakan Municipal Council and is part of the Sandakan Heritage Trail. The museum showcases the pre-war and post-war history of the town—various artefacts including barter trade items, authentic office equipment in the 1920s and traditional agricultural equipment. Portraits of local leaders and early scenes of the town are prominently displayed with the most eye-catching being the large mural of Sandakan in 1935 in the museum’s hallway. The Martin and Osa Johnson Safari Museum in Chanute, Kansas, United States has relations with the museum with the digital copies of the Johnson photographs related to North Borneo are returned to the museum and the authority of Sabah Museum.

The Agnes Keith House, formerly known as the Newlands is a historic house museum named after Agnes Newton Keith, an American author known for her three autobiographical accounts of life in British North Borneo. The house was already constructed on a hill in the current site as a British colonial government quarters. In 1934, Agnes married Harry Keith, a British official forest conservation officer in Sandakan. After being destroyed in World War II, a new house was rebuilt between 1946 and 1947 on the hill of a destroyed house and became the first government permanent timber dwelling. The newly rebuilt house was renamed Newlands. Agnes lived in the house for several years before the house was owned by others. After being left unoccupied, the Sabah Museum Department together with the Federal Department of Museum and Antiquities began to collaborate in 2001 to restore the house and on 26 April 2004, it was finally opened to the public as a museum.

Agnes wrote about mysterious incidents throughout her stay where she saw a tall unrecognisable female figure apparition. The next occupant also experienced similar incidents. The house has been restored and turned into a heritage house since the restoration works in 2004. The house provides insights into life during the administration of British North Borneo and is furnished with a reproduction of colonial furniture and antiques. A gallery on the first floor tells the story of Agnes, her books and her family.

The Chartered Company Monument is a monument dedicated to the British servicemen or employees who were killed at the end of the 19th century. The monument was built by the British North Borneo Company and is part of the Sandakan Heritage Trails, a trail which connects the historic sights of Sandakan.

The Chinese Cemetery in Sandakan sprawls across a huge area and is regarded as one of the most fascinating burial grounds in Asia. One part of the cemetery is dedicated to the Chinese. Here, the graves follow the old feng shui principles. There is also an ancient charnel house which houses the remains of extended Chinese families. These houses depict Taoist guardian deities which protect the departed spirits from negativity. Another section of the Chinese Cemetery houses the remains of the Japanese community.

The Sandakan Japanese Cemetery is an old graveyard located on a hill about 2 km from the town’s central business district. It is a cemetery where many Japanese female prostitutes, known as Karayuki-san who came from poverty-stricken agricultural prefectures in Japan are buried. These young women were sold into slavery at a very young age years before World War II which also included recent comfort women during the war. It is part of the Sandakan Heritage Trail.

The Sandakan Massacre Memorial consists of three monuments which commemorate 30 Chinese victims, most of whom were the local elite of an underground movement executed on 27 May 1945 along with several other victims during the Japanese occupation of North Borneo. The memorial was built on the spot where the massacre took place and where the victims were buried. It is located near a Chinese cemetery on a hill above the old town centre of Sandakan. The memorial is located near the entrance to the Sandakan Chinese Cemetery. Right next to the gate, it is surrounded by a tiled square of six metres long. Link chains connected by stone pillars limit the memorial, which consists of approximately three metres high stele and two flanking memorial stones.

The Sandakan Memorial Park is a memorial site built on the former grounds of the former Sandakan camp. The site is dedicated to the prisoners in the camp who died during the Sandakan Death Marches, and to those who died during a march to Ranau. It also recognises the suffering and sacrifice of the native population. This park hosts the Sandakan Memorial Day service on August 15.

The memorial park is located about 1.5 km southwest of present-day Sandakan Airport, which occupies part of the former camp of the Australian B Force. The memorial is divided into six stations that are connected by a circular route. The excavator was used for the construction of an airport for the Japanese. During repairs, it was sabotaged by Australian prisoners of war rendering it inoperable and so it never worked again. The steam generator and other generators became the main power source for the camp. The wood-fired steam engine-powered generator was used for the lighting of the camp and its enclosure. The Great Tree is a huge specimen of a Mengarisbaumes that originally stood where the memorial obelisk is placed today. It was the dominant structure of the POW camp by its size. Shortly after the war, the tree was destroyed by a fire. A new Mengarisbaum was planted near the entrance on 25 April 2008 for the park. The Japanese also operated a food depot and kitchen with a water tank preserved in concrete. The main entrance was on the east side of the memorial park before the storage area. The road leading to the airport and to the left and right was the Mile 8 Road street from Sandakan to Ranau. It was from here, that all three marches began to Ranau. The Sandakan Commemorative Pavilion was opened on 18 March 1999 and contains a permanent exhibition about the POW camp and the death marches in both English and Malay languages.

The Sandakan War Monument is a monument established by the British to commemorate citizens who died during the Second World War. The monument is part of the Sandakan Heritage Trails, a Heritage Trail which connects all of Sandakan’s historic sights.

The William Pryer Monument is a monument in memory of the founder, William Burgess Pryer. It is part of the Sandakan Heritage Trails, a trail which connects all the historic sights in Sandakan. The monument site changed frequently. In the 1950s, the monument stood on a square that today is known as the site of the Sandakan Municipal Council. In the early 1960s, the monument was located near a field and later relocated again when Sandakan North Road was converted into a four-lane road. Its current location is on MPS Square, fronting the Municipal Council building along with other monuments such as the Chartered Company Memorial after the transformation of the site, which was a former hockey field.

St. Mary’s Cathedral or Sandakan Cathedral, is the cathedral and mother church of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Sandakan. Founded in 1883, it is the oldest church in Sandakan. During the 19th century, it was erected as a prefecture based in Labuan. In the period established in the territory of the various mission stations, including the mission of Santa Maria of Sandakan, a small town on the coast of the island of Borneo.

The Sam Sing Kung Temple, also known as the Three Saints Temple is the third oldest temple in Sandakan after the Goddess of Mercy and Tam Kung Temples. Built in 1887, the temple is part of the Sandakan Heritage Trail. The temple has undergone several recent renovations. The temple was originally established as a religious centre for Chinese migrants who had arrived from Guangdong, and the Qing Dynasty. The temple is also called the Three Saints Temple with the three saints referring to Kwan Woon Cheung, the saint of righteousness, the Goddess of Tin Hou who is worshipped by fishermen and seamen for protection, and the Min Cheong Emperor who is worshipped by hopeful students who seek success in examinations. The temple has a collection of 100 pre-printed Taoist Divination Poems. Its bronze bell was donated by the first Kapitan Cina of Sandakan, known as Fung Ming Shan who was appointed by the British rulers in 1887 to manage and oversee the Chinese community in the town.

Nestled on the Tanah Merah hill, the Puu Jih Syh Temple is the largest Chinese temple in Sandakan. The highlight is the panoramic view of the Sandakan city and the Sulu Sea from this Buddhist-Chinese temple. Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy and Passion is the principal deity. The temple is adorned with shades of red and golden, while its roofs are adorned with paintings of Chinese dragons. Traditional Chinese architecture, gleaming lanterns, a huge variety of flowers, statues and Buddhist intricate works further accentuate its beauty.

The Sandakan Jamek Mosque, also known as Masjid Jamek Sheik Hasabollah At-Tohiri and was opened in 1890. It is the oldest mosque in Sandakan and part of the Sandakan Heritage Trail. The mosque was opened in 1890 by Damsah, a Muslim cloth merchant from the British Raj in present-day India. During World War II, the mosque was a hidehole for the town’s Muslim population from the Japanese. The Japanese military believed the mosque was also the hiding place for British soldiers leading them to shoot the mosque several times during the war.

Turtle Islands Park is located within the Turtle Islands, which lie in the Sulu Sea some 3 km north of Sandakan. It consists of 3 islands – Selingaan, Little Bakkungan and Gulisaan, including the surrounding coral reefs and ocean. The Park is noted for its green turtles and hawksbill turtles which lay their eggs on the beaches of the islands. The Park covers an area of 17.4 sq km. The name Turtle Islands, however, refers to 10 islands, 3 of which are part of Turtle Islands Park of Malaysia, and 7 which belong to the Turtle Islands Wildlife Sanctuary of Tawi-Tawi province, Philippines.

Only on Selingan are there chalets for overnight visitors, and those who wish to see the turtles laying eggs must stay overnight. A curious fact of the three islands is that turtles come ashore nightly, not only during certain seasons and thus one is virtually guaranteed to see them. During the peak season in October, up to 50 turtles come ashore to lay eggs. Park rules are strictly enforced and visitors are not allowed on the beach from sunset to sunrise so as not to disturb the turtles. The eggs are collected and the visitors vacate the beach immediately so as not to scare away other turtles, which are very sensitive to movement on the beach. After the laying and collection of eggs and eventual tagging of the turtle, if it is a first-time visitor, tourists are allowed into the hatchery to observe the further work of the rangers: the transplantation of the freshly laid eggs into a man-made incubation chamber. The chamber is no different from that of the turtle: between 60 and 75 cm deep, in the sand, but within a protected hatchery to make it impossible for natural predators to dig the nests open. Since temperature determines the sex of the turtles, part of the hatchery is shaded, while the rest remains under the open sun. After the transplantation of the eggs, visitors will get turtle hatchlings—baby turtles—to release into the sea, which is also done by night to further increase their chances of survival.

Not all nests are emptied by the park rangers, but some remain undisturbed and develop naturally. By conserving the turtles, the park does not want to endanger other wildlife on the island: many animals that are natural predators of the turtles, such as monitor lizards, a crab specialising in turtle hatchlings, eagles and other birds, and marine animals such as sharks. They need the turtles for their survival. The turtle conservation programme in Sabah is the oldest in the world and has the most detailed statistics and research. Marine turtles have been around for at least 230 million years, but because of human activities, they have been brought, over the past hundred years, to the brink of extinction.

The Gomantong Caves are an intricate cave system inside Gomantong Hill and the hill is the largest limestone outcrop in the Lower Kinabatangan area. Situated in the Gomantong Forest Reserve, the caves and the surrounding area are a protected area for wildlife, especially orangutans. The limestone hill is also the only known site for the endangered land snail Plectostoma mirabile. Investigation of the guano deposits was first made in 1889 by J.H. Allard of the China Borneo Company, and the caves were first mapped by P. Orolfo in 1930. Detailed re-mapping and laser scanning of the caves was conducted in 2012 and July 2014.

The bat population is dominated by a colony of the wrinkle-lipped free-tailed bat, whose nightly exodus is a popular tourist attraction. There are also bat hawks that linger not far from the scene and prey specifically on the bats as they leave their roost.

For centuries, the caves have been renowned for their valuable edible swiftlet nests, which are harvested for bird’s nest soup. The most valuable of the nests, the white ones, can sell for very high prices. The birds’ nest collection is an ancient tradition, and the trading of these nests has been done since at least 500 AD. Twice a year, from February to April and July to September, locals with licenses climb to the roof of the caves, using only rattan ladders, ropes, and bamboo poles, and collect the nests. The first collection takes place early in the breeding season before the swiftlets lay their eggs. The birds then make another nest in which they finally lay their eggs. After the young have left the nest, the second collection is made. Care must be taken to ensure that the nests are collected only after the young swiftlets have abandoned these nests. Edible birds’ nests are protected under the Wildlife Conservation Enactment of 1997. Heavy fines and penalties are imposed on unlicensed collectors.

The main cave system is divided into two parts: the more accessible Simud Hitam or Black Cave, and the larger Simud Putih or White Cave which lies above. The names refer to the main type of nests produced by swiftlets in each cave. The cave system is home to many other animals, including massive populations of cockroaches, centipedes and bats. Outside one can see many raptors including crested serpent eagles, kingfishers, and Asian fairy-bluebirds. Access is in the form of a wooden walkway circuiting the interior.

Simud Hitam or Black Cave the more accessible of the two caves is only a few minutes walk from the entrance building and is open to the general public. It is the source of the less-valuable black saliva nests. These contain both feathers and saliva and require cleaning afterwards. Simud Putih or the White Cave is the larger of the two caves, and also the more technical; it is not open to the general public, and access requires appropriate caving equipment and experience. It is where the more valuable white saliva nests of the swiftlets are found and is reached by a steep, 30-minute climb further up the mountains. The main entrance is located above and adjacent to the main lighthole at the back of Simud Hitam.

Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 54 – Sabah Part 3

The Signal Hill Observatory Tower, located just outside the main town provides astounding views of Kota Kinabalu. The observatory platform is a high-roofed platform located shaped in the form of a UFO at the edge of Signal Hill overlooking Kota Kinabalu and the South China Sea. The observatory allows visitors to get a panoramic view of Likas Bay and the Tanjung Aru areas surrounding it and provides one of the best scenic views of Kota Kinabalu.

The Sabah Art Gallery or Balai Seni Lukis Sabah in Malay is an art gallery founded in 1984 by Datuk Mohd. Yaman Hj. Ahmad Mus. The building consists of two gallery spaces. The permanent exhibition of the art gallery houses more than 3,000 artworks by local and international artists with a total estimated value of around more than MYR10 million. The temporary gallery houses various exhibitions. Besides exhibitions, the gallery regularly hosts workshops, seminars, competitions etc.

Sabah’s state museum, the Sabah Museum is located on 17 hectares of land at Bukit Istana Lama. The original Sabah Museum location was established on 15 July 1965 in a shophouse in Gaya Street largely due to the efforts of the Sabah Society. George Cathcart Woolley’s collection of photographs, diaries and other artefacts, bequeathed to the State Government of Sabah, formed the nucleus of the museum. The complex contains not only the museum proper but also an ethnobotanical garden, a zoo and a heritage village. The main building also houses the Sabah Art Gallery. Other galleries cover Islamic civilisation, archaeology and history, natural history, and ceramics and brassware. The mission of the museum is to collect, preserve, conserve and document ethnographic, archaeological, historical, numismatic, art-historical, botanical, zoological and mineralogical collections from throughout the state, and to conduct research on important and interesting aspects of Sabah’s history, culture, and social and natural history.

Merdeka Square is a square located from where the Federation of Malaysia was declared in 1963. The square was the site for sporting events during the British North Borneo Crown period. Before the Jesselton Community Hall was built in the 1950s, the square was not just used as a football field but also became a parade site, especially before the construction of the Kota Kinabalu Sports Complex. On 16 September 1963, the late Chief Minister Donald Stephens declared the formation of the Federation of Malaysia at the site. Since then, the square is only used for small ceremonies. In 2015, the square was closed for several months for renovation work. On 23 February 2018, it is one of 24 heritage sites in the state that were gazetted by Sabah’s State Heritage Council under the new enactment of State Heritage Enactment 2017.

The Petagas War Memorial or Petagas War Memorial Garden is a memorial park dedicated to the Second World War victims in Sabah, particularly the 324 resistance movement members, who were executed on 21 January 1944 at the site by the Japanese occupying forces of North Borneo for their involvement in the Jesselton Revolt. The park was built on the site where the massacre took place and where the victims were initially buried. On 21 January 1946, the Chinese War Victims Relief Association, CWVRA held a memorial service at the execution site on the second anniversary of the massacre. The park grounds and marble memorial were built in 1948 at the behest of the West Coast Memorial Fund Residential Committee, WCMFRC. At the same time, it was decided that the site of the massacre and its burial sites should be a permanent place of remembrance for all North Borneo’s victims of World War II. The inauguration of the memorial took place on the fourth anniversary of the massacre on 21 January 1948. In 1949, the remains of the men who were murdered by the Japanese military police, kenpeitai and interred in Labuan were reburied at Petagas. Since the opening of the Petagas War Memorial site, an annual memorial service has been held on 21 January with the participation of high-ranking state politicians, families of the victims and the general population. At the 1998 service, a representative of the Japanese government and the Japanese consul in Kota Kinabalu attended the ceremony for the first time.

The Double Six Monument is a memorial located in the Sembulan neighbourhood which marks the site of the 6 June 1976 fatal plane crash known as the Double Six Tragedy bearing the first Chief Minister of Sabah, Tun Fuad Stephens, as well as six other State ministers.

Tanjung Aru Beach, located near the west coast of Kota Kinabalu is one of the most iconic attractions in Sabah. It is a great place for all types of visitors, from couples to families. Tanjung Aru Beach is one of the best spots to catch a breathtaking sunset. The beautiful beach is divided into three parts, and are known as the First, Second and Third Beaches respectively. With lively music and entertainment everywhere, the nighttime at Tanjung Aru Beach is a stark contrast to its beautiful daytime vibes.

First Beach is located next to the Shangri-La’s Tanjung Aru Resort and Spa and is the most popular beach in Tanjung. There are plenty of food stalls and restaurants in First Beach and it is always buzzing with visitors. It features an open food court and offers a variety of delicacies to its visitors. Tourists are also allowed to use the barbeque pits at the beachfront to cook their meals. Second Beach is a great spot to catch the sunset. However, it is advised to look out for jellyfish as it is quite common around these areas. Third Beach in Tanjung Aru Beach is a great spot for surfers and the beach also provides surfing lessons on the beach.

The Kota Kinabalu Waterfront is a mixed development project with a mall, hotels, restaurants, resort homes and a boardwalk between Filipino Market and Oceanus Mall. Also known as KK Waterfront, it is situated in the heart of the city offering an unmatchable experience of the mesmerising sunset, nightlife and an array of restaurants, bars, and small eating and massage joints.

Bustling with the hustle of locals and tourists, the Gaya Street Sunday Market is a weekly market set in Gaya Street. It has been an important place for farmers, fishermen and other traders for more than a hundred years. The Sunday Street Market is famous for providing a large number of unique, handcrafted, organic and herbal items along with plants, flowers, stylish and colourful clothes, jewellery and other items of local, cultural and traditional importance. The market opens early in the morning and one can stroll around to shop and also try the authentic Malaysian and international cuisine at the roadside stalls.

Tucked into Patau Village’s virgin forests, Mahua Waterfall sits inside Crocker Range National Park. It is a plunge-type waterfall cascading from a height of 17 metres and is among Sabah’s best ecotourism attractions for trekking and camping. In addition, there is a 1.2-metre-deep natural pool for swimming. The waterfall is open from 8 am to 6 pm and has an entry fee of RM 15 per person.

Kota Kinabalu Wetland Centre is 24 hectares of the only remains of mangrove forest that once existed extensively along the coastal region of Kota Kinabalu. Previously known as Likas Swamp or Likas Mangrove and later Kota Kinabalu City Bird Sanctuary, the Centre came foremost out of 20 wetlands selected by the Sabah Wetlands Inventory Committee in 1986. The Centre is an important refuge and feeding ground for many species of resident birds, as well as several migratory bird species from Northern Asia. In addition, it is a breeding ground for marine life protected by the Fishery Department of Sabah.

Apart from providing shelter and food for both resident and migratory species of wildlife, wetlands also prevent salt build-up in surrounding freshwater supplies, stabilising sedimentation, storing nutrients and removing toxins. More than 80 different species of birds have been identified in the wetlands so far. Tourists are also thrilled to spot many colourful butterflies, mudskippers, weaver ants, jellyfish, water snakes and other amphibian or aquatic animals within this region.

Walking amidst nature while being close to the city is a rarity that the visitors to this centre love to experience. Tourists marvel at the thick foliage and often come across many sea creatures with the chirping of birds and insects being the only sound heard inside the mangrove forest. The centre is reckoned as a paradise for avid bird watchers with numerous species of birds being spotted in the forested area during the morning hours or in the breeding season. Both local people, as well as tourists, are educated about the uses of mangrove forests and their importance. The voluntary guardian program is undertaken by voluntary workers who train nature lovers to take an active part in conservation. Enthusiastic participants are guided by the volunteers so that they get to understand the concept of ecology and the conservation of the mangrove. Most of the work is done indoors with the participants provided with extensive training. The centre is closed on Mondays and on other days is open from 8 am to 6 pm.

Lok Kawi Wildlife Park is a famous natural wildlife park that is divided into two sections – zoological and botanical and houses many species of flora and fauna. The zoological part of the park houses many animals while the botanical part of the wildlife park offers an opportunity for a nature hike and also a chance to witness various types of flowers and trees along with insects, some of them indigenous to Malaysia.

The Pulau Tiga National Park consists of a group of coral reef-ed islands surrounded by the South China Sea, opposite the swamps of the Klias Peninsula. The park has three main islands, as the name suggests. These islands were formed by eruptions of mud volcanoes, namely the Tiga Islands, Kalampunian Damit and Kalampunian Besar. The region had peaked its fame when the reality show ‘Survivor’ featured it in their documentary, naming it popularly as Survivor Island. The desert island national park covers an area of 158 sq km whilst being surrounded by Kota Kinabalu and Labuan. Tropical Pulau Tiga is a refreshing and isolated family or romantic weekend getaway destination from the mundane life with its mesmerizing beaches of white sand, crystal waters and bubbling mud pools.

Tiga Island has a lot of dense tropical vegetation in the area. The volcanic steam of methane and bubbling mud volcanoes can still be seen and experienced in many places here. Kalampunian Besar has some soft white sand beaches and crystal clear water along with wreathes of sandbar action all across the island that have been eroded spectacularly by the waves. Scuba diving and snorkelling are some of the more popular activities that happen here. Kalampunian Damit is a smaller island, a little larger than a humongous rock. The island is popularly known as Snake Island because of the poisonous slippery inhabitants that live here and is a mating location.

Pulau Tiga is well known for hosting ground-dwelling megapodes that bury their eggs in the sandy beaches. There is also a diverse marine life including sharks and barracudas, in the greenish–blue sea beaches of the islands, that one can spot while swimming or strolling down the sands. There is also an abundance of vegetation present in Pulau Tiga.

Diving and snorkelling are some of the most sought-after activities when the tide sets. The dive centre on the island provides a course for beginners and intermediate learners. One can spot the seven km of colourful coral reefs along the beaches. There is also a mangrove lagoon and two pole-like trees called the giant ranggu that one must see. There are various bubbling mud pools, scurries and mud volcanic caves that one can visit. The island is located 5 km southwest of Kota Kinabalu. The day trip takes a total of around 11-12 hours when travelling independently.

The Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park comprises a group of five islands located close to Kota Kinabalu. The park is spread over 4,929 hectares, two-thirds of which cover the sea. Before the Ice Age, it formed part of the Crocker Range mass of sandstone and sedimentary rock on the mainland. However, about one million years ago, the melting ice brought about changes in the sea level and parts of the mainland were cut off by the sea to form the islands of Gaya, Sapi, Manukan, Mamutik and Sulug. Evidence of this can be seen from the exposed sandstone of the coastline forming the cliffs, caves, honeycombs and deep crevices. The park was named after Tunku Abdul Rahman, Malaysia’s first Prime Minister.

The ferry station for visitors travelling to the islands in Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park is located in downtown Kota Kinabalu. This ferry terminal is also the departure point for patrons staying at either Manukan Island Resort, Gayana Resort or Bunga Raya Resort.

One of the biggest attractions of the islands is the wide variety of aquatic life found in the waters surrounding the islands, and travellers who love natural beauty and the underwater experience will love a trip to the marine park which has many attractive diving and snorkelling sites where incredible untouched reefs attract a multitude of aquatic animals. Some of the islands also have resorts where travellers can spend a few days, like in Gaya. One can also choose to set up camp with tents on the islands and spend the night under the stars.

The marine park is comprised of a total of five islands, all of which are a short boat ride away from each other. Gaya Island is named because it is the largest of the islands. Gaya means big, but even though it is the largest, it is not the most developed. It has light forest trails for trekking activities. At Manukan Island, the word Manukan means fish and is named for the varied aquatic life in its surrounding waters. It is the second-largest island in the park and the most developed. Sapi Island is named after the sound of a mowing buffalo. It is another one of the most developed islands in the park with the most services and amenities and tends to be the most popular island of all. Sulug Island is named for the Sulug people of Sabah. This is one of the least developed islands and has nearly no facilities. Mamutik Island is named for the wide array of seashells that can be found on its beaches. This is another one of the lesser developed islands and has few amenities, except for some basic forms of accommodation, but tends to be much quieter and is ideal for relaxation and snorkelling. The only way to reach the islands within the Tunku Abdul Rahman Park is by ferry. Every hour, boats depart from the Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal. A trip from Jesselton Point to the park takes about 15-20 mins, depending on the island. The first boats to the islands depart at 7:30 am and the last at 4:30 pm.

Mantanani Islands are a collection of three stunning islands with gold beaches and ringed with nearly untouched coral reefs, located off the northwest coast of Sabah. The islands are a perfect getaway from the city and have recently become increasingly popular among travellers and locals alike. The scenic Mantanani Islands have small resorts for those wishing the spend the night under the skies and maybe explore the scenic beauty at night. It also houses some of the most diverse aquatic life that travellers can experience for themselves through underwater activities like diving and snorkelling.

Crocker Range National Park was established in 1984, although the area had previously been under protection as a forest reserve. It covers the north-south Crocker Range, of 1200-1800 metre mountains in Sabah. In the vicinity of the park headquarters, there is a resort that provides accommodation and food services. Other visitor facilities such as an exhibition centre, insectarium, fernarium, observation tower and trekking trail can also be found. The park covers 1,399 sq km, making it the largest park in Sabah. The park consists of both hill and mountain forests, with many species of flora and fauna endemic to Borneo. Maintenance of this forest cover is essential to ensuring a pure water supply for many of the towns and communities in Sabah. The park contains at least five species of primates, such as the orang-utan, gibbons and the furry tarsier with its enormous round eyes, and extremely sociable long-tailed macaques. The Padas River bisects the range between Beaufort and Tenom.

The Rafflesia Forest Reserve is a Virgin Jungle Reserve, VJR that covers an area of 356 hectares in Tambunan. The reserve was first established in 1967 as part of the Crocker Range Forest Reserve and in 1984, it was made a separate reserve to protect the area’s Rafflesia flowers. The Rafflesia Information Centre is located along the road from Kota Kinabalu to Tambunan. Several sites with wild specimens of the parasitic flowering plant Rafflesia pricei are reachable via hiking trails from the centre. The reserve is home to many insect species endemic to Borneo.

Kudat
Located on the Kudat Peninsula, about 190 km north of Kota Kinabalu, Kudat is near the northernmost point of Borneo. It is the largest town in the heartland of the Rungus people which is a sub-ethnic group of the majority Kadazan-Dusun race and is therefore a major centre of Rungus culture. It is also notable for being one of the first parts of Sabah to be settled by Chinese Malaysians, particularly from the Hakka dialect group. Kudat is the northernmost Malaysian city.

What is now the Kudat, was originally named Tomborungan by the local indigenous Rungus. It was named after the Tomborungus River, which has since disappeared. According to local lore, when the early British settlers asked for the name of the place, the local Rungus people misunderstood them and thought that they were asking for the name of a species of coarse grass which grows in abundance in the area. The grass is known as kutad in the Rungus dialect. This was eventually corrupted to Kudat and replaced the old name of Tomborungan.

The original inhabitants of Kudat are the native Rungus people, a sub-group of the Dusun people, who traditionally lived inland in longhouse communities to stay beyond the reach of the pirates who frequented the coastline. In the late 19th century, Franz Witti, an explorer in the employ of the British North Borneo Chartered Company, discovered oil 26 km outside the present-day Kudat town. This may have been a reason why the Company chose Kudat as the site for their first settlement in British North Borneo. The town of Kudat was officially founded on 7 December 1881. Company officers began clearing the land with the aid of several Brunei Malays in preparation for the declaration of Kudat as the first capital of British North Borneo. This was eventually made official in 1882. The British settlers ensured that they would live in peace with their native neighbours by signing a peace agreement with Temenggung Kurantud, the then Chieftain of the Rungus people and Datu Harun, the then leader of the Muslim community of Kudat.

The company brought in foreign workers from China. During World War II, the Japanese Imperial Army built and maintained an airfield in Kudat with the help of locals and forced labour from Java, Indonesia. The runway was built using coral stones as a base. In 1945, the United States Far East Air Force repeatedly bombed the airfield putting it out of action. After World War II, Kudat received little attention from the rest of British North Borneo, having long been eclipsed by the rapid growth of Sandakan and Kota Kinabalu, then known as Jesselton. Exacerbating Kudat’s isolation was the fact that it was only accessible by sea until a road was built in the 1960s linking Kudat with Kota Kinabalu. Locals concentrated largely on the coconut and seafood industries until the 1990s when small numbers of visitors began coming to Kudat to experience traditional Rungus culture.

In the early 2000s, Kudat underwent a period of rapid development. A raft of projects gave Kudat several new hotels, a sports centre, the Sidek Esplanade and a new road linking the town with the Pan-Borneo Highway.

Kudat is home to a significant Hakka Chinese minority which is among the oldest Hakka communities in Sabah. Hakka involvement in Kudat began in the 1880s with Walter Medhurst’s offer of free passage to British North Borneo to prospective migrants in southern China.

The small but important tourism industry in Kudat town revolves largely around its laid-back atmosphere and its proximity to the sea. Visitors come to purchase its fresh seafood and experience the charms of a typical Sabahan country town. Tourist attractions located in the town proper include the Kudat Golf Club, Sidek Esplanade, central market and fish market. Kudat is famous for its beaches, which are among the most unspoilt in Sabah. Some of the better-known beaches include Bak Bak, Pasir Putih, Kalampunian and Torungkungan.

Kudat is also notable for its proximity to Tanjung Simpang Mengayau, a headland which forms the northernmost point of the island of Borneo. The Tip of Borneo marks the meeting point of the South China Sea and the Sulu Sea. The tip as part of the Kudat Peninsula was formed through the Kudat formation in the Early Miocene age.

The original name of Tanjung Sampang Mangazou comes from the language of the indigenous Rungus. The words Tanjung or cape, Sampang or union and Mangazou or battle refer to this location of a battle that occurred when the ethnic Rungus defended their territory against the attack from Moro Pirates. According to legend, this place was a favourite landing point for the pirates. Local Chinese people refer to the place as Den Foh Liew, which in Hakka means a lighthouse due to a lighthouse on a nearby island of Kalampunian Island that can be seen from here.

The tip is one of Sabah’s popular tourist attractions. Within the area, there is a park-like grounds with a Malaysian flag pole and a large bronze globe which opened in 2004. The bronze globe marks the location of the Borneo Island tip at latitude 7 degrees north and longitude 116 degrees east with a map featuring the island embossed in bronze and laid on a flat surface at an angle with inscriptions to mark the tip. Over the years, infrastructure and public amenities have been erected at the site including a public rest area with a café, souvenir shop and washrooms. The park-like grounds has become a place to view sunsets and full moons.

Several villages along the Kota Kinabalu – Kudat road each showcase one particular aspect of Rungus culture. In Kampung Gombizau, visitors can observe the production of honey and gathering of traditional Rungus herbs, whereas Kampung Sumangkap is famous for its gong-making industry. Kampung Bavanggazo on the other hand is noted for its traditional Rungus longhouses, which are part of a community project offering tourists the chance to experience and learn about the culture and lifestyle of the Rungus people. Rungus culture can also be experienced at the Misompuru Homestay Programme, which is centred around Kampung Minyak.

In My Hands Today…

For the Love of Europe: My Favorite Places, People, and Stories – Rick Steves

After 40+ years of writing about Europe, Rick Steves has gathered 100 of his favorite memories together into one inspiring collection: For the Love of Europe: My Favorite Places, People, and Stories.

Join Rick as he’s swept away by a fado singer in Lisbon, learns the dangers of falling in love with a gondolier in Venice, and savors a cheese course in the Loire Valley. Contemplate the mysteries of centuries-old stone circles in England, dangle from a cliff in the Swiss Alps, and hear a French farmer’s defense of foie gras.

With a brand-new, original introduction from Rick reflecting on his decades of travel, For the Love of Europe features 100 of the best stories published throughout his career. Covering his adventures through England, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, and more, these are stories only Rick Steves could tell.

Wry, personal, and full of Rick’s signature humor, For the Love of Europe is a fond and inspirational look at a lifetime of travel.

Travel Bucket List: Malaysia Part 53 – Sabah Part 2

Kota Kinabalu
Affectionately known as KK, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah’s capital was formerly known as Jesselton. The city is located on the northwest coast of Borneo facing the South China Sea. The Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park lies to its west and Mount Kinabalu, which gave the city its name, is located to its east.

In the 15th century, the area of Kota Kinabalu was under the influence of the Bruneian Empire. Historically, the Kadazandusuns called the area by the name of Dondoung. In the 19th century, the British North Borneo Company, BNBC first set up a settlement near Gaya Island. However, it was destroyed by fire in 1897 by a local leader named Mat Salleh. In July 1899, the place located opposite Gaya Island was identified as a suitable place for settlements. Development in the area was started soon after that; and the place was named Api-api before it was renamed after Sir Charles Jessel, the vice-chairman of BNBC, as Jesselton. Jesselton became a major trading port in the area and was connected to the North Borneo Railway. Jesselton was largely destroyed during World War II. The Japanese occupation of Jesselton provoked several local uprisings notably the Jesselton Revolt but they were eventually defeated by the Japanese. After the war, BNBC was unable to finance the high cost of reconstruction and the place was ceded to the British Crown Colony. The British Crown declared Jesselton as the new capital of North Borneo in 1946 and started to rebuild the town. After the formation of Malaysia, North Borneo was renamed as Sabah. In 1967, Jesselton was renamed Kota Kinabalu, Kota being the Malay word for City and Kinabalu after the nearby Mount Kinabalu. Kota Kinabalu was granted city status in 2000.

Kota Kinabalu is a major tourist destination and a gateway for travellers visiting Sabah and Borneo. Kota Kinabalu is named after Mount Kinabalu, which is situated about 50 kilometres east-northeast of the city. Kinabalu is derived from the name Aki Nabalu meaning the revered place of the dead. Aki means ancestors or grandfather, and Nabalu is a name for the mountain in the Dusun language. There is also a source claiming that the term originated from Ki Nabalu, Ki meaning have or exist, and Nabalu meaning the spirit of the dead. The word kota comes from Malay word kota which in turn comes from the Sanskrit word kota which means fort, fortress, castle, fortified house, fortification, works, city, town, or place encircled by walls. A direct translation of the name Kota Kinabalu into English would be the City of Kinabalu or Kinabalu City.

Besides Jesselton, there are also other older names for Kota Kinabalu. The most popular is Api-Api, or simply Api, which is a Malay word meaning Fire. Another suggested historical name is Deasoka, which roughly means below the coconut tree in the Bajau language. The Bajau locals purportedly used this name to refer to a village in the southern part of the city which was filled with coconut trees. Yet another name was Singgah Mata which means transit eye, but can be loosely translated as pleasing to the eye. It is a name said to have been given by fishermen from Gaya Island referring to the strip of land that is today’s downtown Kota Kinabalu. Today, all these names have been immortalised as names of streets or buildings around the city.

Kota Kinabalu is located on the west coast of Sabah. The city lies on a narrow flatland between the Crocker Range to the east and the South China Sea to the west. There are six islands off the coast of the city. The largest is Gaya Island, the site of the first British settlement. Approximately 8,000 people live there. The smaller islands, mainly uninhabited, are named Sapi Island, Manukan Island, Sulug Island, Mamutik Island and Sepanggar Island to the north. Sepanggar Island is located north of the National Park opposite Sepanggar Bay.

Besides being the capital city, Kota Kinabalu is also the main industrial and commercial centre for Sabah. The economy is dominated by the primary sector of industry. Historically, the secondary sector dominated the economy, but due to rapid urbanisation and economic development, this sector of the economy is slowly diminishing. More recently, a move towards a more tertiary-based industry has become more apparent, especially with the boom in the tourism industry.

Malaysia’s highest mountain, known as Gurung Kinabalu in Malay, Gayo Ngaran or Nulu Nabalu in Dusun, Mount Kinabalu is protected as Kinabalu Park, a World Heritage Site. Standing at a height of 4,101 m, this is the most accessible mountain in the world. The mountain and its surroundings are among the most important biological sites in the world, with between 5,000 and 6,000 species of plants, 326 species of birds, and more than 100 mammalian species identified. Mount Kinabalu has been accorded UNESCO World Heritage status.

Low’s Peak can be climbed by a person in good physical condition and there is no need for mountaineering equipment at any point on the main route, but climbers must be accompanied by accredited guides at all times due to national park regulations and may experience altitude sickness. Its vast altitude allows a wide array of habitats to thrive and is one of the world’s most important biological sites.

The climate of the mountain varies from humid tropical at its base to alpine at its summit. Due to the coldness of the mountain from December to January, there are a few occasions where frost and ice appear at the summit of Mount Kinabalu. Snow has been recorded three times in this area; in 1975, 1993 and 2022.

Mount Kinabalu gets its name from the Kadazan word Aki Nabalu which translates to the revered place of the dead. Mount Kinabalu is sacred to the locals as they believe that the spirits of their ancestors occupy the peak of the mountain. Initially, every time someone tried to climb the mountain, a chicken was sacrificed to pacify the spirits. However, this ritual takes place only once a year where seven chickens are sacrificed to pacify the spirits. Another popular legend among the locals is that the mountain belongs to a Chinese Widow. The legend says that a Chinese prince married a Kadazan woman after he defeated a dragon. However, soon after his marriage, he left for China thus abandoning the Kadazan woman. The woman then headed into the mountains where she was later turned to stone.

Ascending and descending the mountain can take up to 4 hours. However, visitors generally take two days with an overnight stay at Laban Rata, which is located 3,272 meters above sea level. Visitors generally try to reach the peak of the mountain by sunrise to catch the beautiful sun and capture sensational pictures.

The entry fee to enter Kinabalu Park is RM 15 for adults and RM 10 for children. A climb fee permit is charged at RM 200 for foreigners and RM 50 for Malaysians. A maximum of 120 people are allowed to climb the mountain each day to preserve the environment and for safety measures. Climbing permits are subject to availability so visitors are recommended to book their climbing packages in advance. Permits for the climb can be obtained from the tour guides or agencies. The cost of hiring mountain guide services is RM 230, while the porter service per day is RM 65.

Malaysia’s first national park, Kinabalu Park was opened to the public in 1964 and is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The park is buzzing with plant species such as the alpine meadow plants and montane oak.

It is one of the most important biological sites in the world with more than 4,500 species of flora and fauna, including 326 bird and around 100 mammal species, and over 110 land snail species. It covers an area of 754 sq km surrounding Mount Kinabalu, which is the highest mountain in Borneo.

The park contains a variety of flora and fauna that ranges over 4 climate zones; from rich lowland dipterocarp forest through the montane oak, and rhododendron, to the coniferous forests, to the alpine meadow plants, and the stunted bushes of the summit zone. The mountain is also known for its many carnivorous plants and orchid species, most notably Nepenthes rajah. It is also home to a multitude of endemic animal species, including the Kinabalu giant red leech and Kinabalu giant earthworm. The park also plays host to a variety of birds, insects, mammals, amphibians, and reptiles.

Mount Kinabalu is one of the youngest non-volcanic mountains in the world. It was formed within the last 10 to 35 million years. The mountain still grows at a rate of 5 millimetres a year. Kinabalu Park has eight nature trails for visitors who want to explore nature without trekking the mountain. There are several other attractions in the park such as the Orchid Conservation Center and the Butterfly Farm which will be an educative experience. One should not miss the waterfalls in the park, Kipungit Waterfall and Langanan Waterfall. The latter stands at 120m high and is a sight to behold.

April is the most preferred month for climbing the mountain as the weather is stable and is more suited for climbing. Visitors are advised to avoid climbing the mountain during November and December, as these months witness heavy rainfall which can make climbing difficult and dangerous.

Standing at 800 m above sea level, Kokal Hill is popular for its mesmerising city view, cool and fresh air, chilly temperatures and relaxing atmosphere. To get to the panoramic view, one needs to hike to the top which has resorts, cafes, homestays and a perfect location for landscape photography. Kokol Hill experiences a cool and pleasant climate mostly and is very crowded on clear days. It is best to visit around 6 am and in the evenings to experience the beautiful sunrise and sunset respectively.

The oldest standing structure in Kota Kinabalu, the Atkinson Clock Tower was originally known as the Atkinson Memorial Clock Tower and sits in solitary on the bluff along Signal Hill Road. The clock tower was built in memory of Francis George Atkinson, Jesselton’s first district officer who died of Malaria or Borneo Fever. His mother Mrs Mary Edith Atkinson presented a two-faced clock to Jesselton town as a tribute to the memory of her son and it was decided later that a clock tower would be built in his honour. The clock tower was originally built using Mirabau wood. Measuring 50 feet high, the clock tower stood from its lookout point on the hill facing towards the township of Jesselton. A weather vane with initials of the wind direction added a few more inches to the height of this elegant monument. Ships calling port at the wharf used the Atkinson Clock Tower as their navigation landmark, as it could be seen from the sea. The clock tower was illuminated at night and was used as a shipping landmark right up to the 1950s.  

Over the years, the clock tower underwent many transformations. Subsequent repairs and renovations have altered its appearance. Japanese machine-gun fire during World War 2 damaged the dial and cog of the clock tower’s mechanisms. The clock tower was extensively renovated and altered for Jesselton’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations in 1959. In 1961, the Atkinson Clock Tower’s clock face was altered yet again. The dials of the clock were changed and the face was replaced with translucent Perspex, with black figures on a white background for internal lighting. But the building itself has remained intact in its exact location for more than a century. The clock tower is protected with its site gazetted in 1983.

A cluster of traditional homes, the Mari Mari Cultural Village is popular for its tours and traditional art and craft displays. Murut, Dusun, Bajau and more are the communities scattered around Jin Kiansom, in Kota Kinabalu. One can witness tattoo-making, blow-pipe making and other indigenous crafts that these tribes engage in, as well as sample their cuisine and learn about their lifestyles and beliefs. While here, make sure to visit the Kiansom Waterfall which is close to the village.

The tour of the Mari Mari Cultural Village takes one through the vast area inhabited by the members of 5 different tribal communities. One can witness the various traditional activities and habits followed by each of these distinct tribes and their daily routines and rituals. Some of the fun activities included in the Mari Mari Tour include rice wine tasting, a unique method of cutting trees and blowpipe dart shooting which was once used as a means of defensive weapon but has now been turned into a harmless entertaining game. One can also volunteer for their special folk music and tribal ethnic dances like the Magunatip bamboo dance performed by the Murut tribes.

The Murut Tribe is one of the oldest tribal communities residing in the Mari Mari Village. They used to have quite a dominant grasp over the other tribes residing in and around the area due to their headhunting practices. They were also well-known for their fatal weapons like poisoned blowpipes, swords and ribbed spears coated with venom. One of their ancient traditions involved strategically placing the skeleton heads of those sacrificial humans to display their might to the neighbouring tribes and preventing any attempts of attacks or threats to the members of their tribe. However, after British colonisation, their population started decreasing rapidly and they became more domesticated leading them to turn into one of the friendlier tribes of the current times.

The Lundayeh Tribe, also called the Lun Bawang tribe, are a hard-working community of fishermen, livestock farmers, hunters and fishermen. They were infamous for their hardcore burak or rice wine drinking habits. In the early 20th century, there was a major smallpox epidemic which wiped out most of the Lundayeh tribe members. This was mainly due to their low immunity caused due to excessive drinking which made them more vulnerable to any kind of outbreaks. Today, the Lundayeh are considered almost extinct.

The Bajau tribal community has two subdivisions – about half of them residing in Kota Belud and the other half in Sempora. The Bajau tribes of Kota Belud are popularly known as the Cowboys of the East due to their skilled horse breeding and horse riding abilities. The Bajau Laut tribes of Semporna are fondly known as Sea Cusps due to their proficient sailing skills.

The Kadazan tribe is truly the people of the land. They cherish their produce and celebrate Kaamatan annually which they consider to be one of the most auspicious harvest festivals to honour and thank the agricultural deities. Most of the Kadazans are Christians, mainly Roman Catholics and a minority community of Protestants and Islamic followers.

The Rungus tribe was earlier considered to be a sub-community of the bigger Kadazan ethnic group until recently when they were declared to be a separate, independent tribal community that happened to be heavily influenced by Malaysian society. The entire community is quite heavily dependent upon rice harvest and processing making it their main source of income.

The cultural village is open from 10 am to 6 pm daily. Entry fees are RM 180 for adults RM 160 for children between the ages of 5 and 11.

The Japanese thermal pools at the Poring Hot Springs are part of the Kinabalu National Park and are a perfect way to relax after an exhaustive trek on Mount Kinabalu. The natural hot springs and the baths contain sulphur which is known for its skin-curative and restorative properties. The complex also has an enchanting forest filled with life, where a lucky few might even get to see some rare flora or fauna like the Rafflesia flower which only blooms rarely. Poring Hot Springs makes for a great trip for anyone looking for some adventure and the chance to attune to oneself.

The Poring Canopy Walk offers a chance to have a thrilling bird’s eye view of the entire spring complex from a height of 30 metres. It consists of a series of walkways suspended from trees in a circular shape. Visitors can opt to undertake an unguided trek through the forest complex to the Kipungit and Langanan waterfalls. The park complex also houses a beautiful butterfly park, located en route to the canopy walk. Another attraction for lovers of flora and fauna is the orchid garden within the park, home to a wide variety of orchids and also certain kinds of animals. The forest also has activities like bird watching that are highly enjoyable. The spring is open daily from 8 am to 6 pm.

The Kota Kinabalu City Mosque is the largest and second main mosque in Kota Kinabalu. Surrounded by a man-made lagoon, it is popularly known as the Floating Mosque because it appears to be floating on the water. The mosque is believed to be an epitome of Islamic architecture having been built in the lines of the Mosque Of Nabawi Al-Munawwara. It consists of a huge prayer hall along with three distinct madrasahs or Islamic schools with the capacity of accommodating up to 12,000 people at a time. Visitors are permitted to enter the mosque and look through it, however, they must register themselves with the Kota Kinabalu City Mosque Tourism Management first.

The dome of the mosque is striking and resplendent in gold and blue colours with the structure resembling Al Masjid an Nabawi, the second holiest mosque in the world. It is surrounded by an artificial lagoon that gave it the name of the floating mosque. Apart from 3 madrasahs and a prayer hall, a palliative care clinic as well as a fish farm. The mosque also introduced paddle boat rides for visitors in 2008. The mosque is open from 8 am to 12 noon and then again between 2 to 3:30 pm and 4 to 5:30 pm. It is closed on Fridays, but open all other days. Entry is free for Malaysians, but foreigners need to pay RM 5.

The Puh Toh Tze Temple is one of the most popular Buddhist temples in the country. The temple is adorned with traditional carvings and sculptures of the local deities. Built in the late 21st century, the temple was constructed to pay respect to and worship the Chinese goddess Kwan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy and Compassion, who is considered to be one of the most influential goddesses in the kingdom of Chinese deities. The architecture of this temple has gained its inspiration from the traditional Chinese designs and patterns making it one of the most popular tourist attractions at Kota Kinabalu. There are several intricate features in the temple. A massive stone staircase pavilion is flanked by statues of 10 deities on either side. However, the statue of Kwan Yin which greets visitors right as they cross the main entrance captivates their attention and dominates over the rest of the statues. Inside the temple is a huge Chinese laughing Buddha statue with miniature followers clinging onto him giving the statue a humorous touch. The walkway of Puh Toh Tze Temple houses the giant bell which is believed to have brought about good fortune to anyone who rings it.

In My Hands Today…

The Gran Tour: Travels with my Elders – Ben Aitken

When Ben Aitken- a millennial Bill Bryson- learnt that his gran had enjoyed a four-night holiday including four three-course dinners, four cooked breakfasts, four games of bingo, a pair of excursions, sixteen pints of lager and luxury return coach travel, all for a hundred pounds, he thought, that’s the life, and signed himself up.

Six times over. Good value aside, what Ben was really after was the company of his elders – those with more chapters under their belt, with the wisdom granted by experience, the candour gifted by time, and the hard-earned ability to live each day like it’s nearly their last.

A series of coach holidays ensued – from Scarborough to St Ives, Killarney to Lake Como – during which Ben attempts to shake off his thirty-something blues by getting old as soon as possible.